PARIS AND LONDON—DEATH OF THE QUEEN-DOWAGER OF WÜRTEMBERG—HOMBURG—THE
LANDGRAVE AND LANDGRAVINE—LIFE AT A GERMAN COURT—RETURN TO
LOUISBURG—BADEN.
JOURNAL CONTINUED—1827.
JANUARY 11th.—In the afternoon Lord Erskine brought the Queen-Dowager
letters from Mr. Canning and Count Munster, announcing the death of the
Duke of York at half-past nine in the evening of the 5th. They came by a
messenger despatched by Mr. Canning, by order of his Majesty.
April 30th.—Arrived at Paris. The National Guard are dismissed, in
consequence of their riotous behaviour last night, crying out “A bas les
Ministres!” It is said many ill-intentioned persons made up uniforms and
mixed with them, for the purpose of creating confusion.
May 14th.—In the evening went with the Viscountess de Vaudreuil to visit
the Duke and Duchess de Rivière at the Tuileries, in the apartments
formerly occupied by the King when he was Monsieur. The little Duke de
Bordeaux was there, M. de Rivière being his governor. He appeared very
lively and good natured. He is not very tall for his age, but has an
elegant and well-proportioned figure. He seems to possess quickness and
intelligence. His Royal Highness had with him two sub-preceptors and a
young companion—the son of the Duke—three years and a half older than
himself. The “salon” is, as before, furnished with stools, and with only
one arm-chair for the King.
August 1st.—Went to St. Ouen to visit the Countess du Cayla and her
daughter, the Princess de Craon. Their house is in the midst of very
extensive grounds and gardens. It appears like a pavilion; but on
entering we found an elegant staircase, carpeted as in England, and well
proportioned rooms elegantly furnished. On the first floor we saw a
“salon” and two handsome bedrooms, with a Gothic “cabinet” in the best
style of that species of architecture. On the ground floor an excellent
dining-room, billiard-room, “salon,” and “cabinet de bain,” all fitted
up in good taste, the locks good, and the doors shutting well. In the
“salon” is an inscription by Louis XVIII., to the effect that here began
a new era in the liberties of France. It was here that he met the Allied
Sovereigns and Ministers in 1814, and gave the Charter. He afterwards
with great secrecy rebuilt the house, or, rather, erected this very
beautiful villa, and made all the plans himself. He then presented it to
Madame du Cayla, as a residence for her life; and the present King
allows her two thousand five hundred livres a year to keep up the place.
The floors are very handsome, and almost all the furniture is of French
wood.
8th.—Went with the Bishop of Tulle to Athis, a place belonging to the
Baroness de Crussol, about four leagues from Paris, on the road to
Fontainebleau. The grounds are well laid out, with fine trees, and the
house is large and commodious, very nice, and in good order. The poor
lady herself, who is very civil and good natured, has nearly lost her
mental faculties; but a friend of her late husband manages everything
for her. In the grounds is a Gothic chapel, as also the Temple of Flora
and a rustic building, all of which are well placed. There is likewise
the tomb of a dog, with his image at the top. It seems that when this
place belonged to the Duchess de Roquelaure, in the reign of Louis XIV.,
Mademoiselle de Scudéry had a dog named Badine, who died while she was
staying here. At that time the philosophers wanted to introduce the
doctrine that animals are only machines. The epitaph engraved on the
tomb alludes to this:
Ci-gît la célèbre Badine,
Qui n’eut ni beauté, ni bonté,
Mais dont l’esprit a démonté
Le système de la machine.
In the house are several good apartments: that in which the Countess
d’Alton sleeps was the chamber of Marshal Villars. The views from the
house are very extensive.
9th.—News by the telegraph of the death of Mr. Canning, who expired
yesterday, at the Duke of Devonshire’s villa at Chiswick.
13th.—Six Indians arrived, four men and two women, with an interpreter
and his son, and a French colonel, from Havre de Grace. They come from
the banks of the river Missouri, in America. The gate and opposite side
of the street are thronged with people trying to stare at them.
16th.—This morning the Indian chief and the two women came to my
apartment with the housekeeper and the porter. He appeared grave in his
manners, but offered his hand, as did also the women. The latter seemed
very cheerful. Their colour is bronze. I thought there was a natural
gracefulness in the figure of the chief, and in his manner of holding
his drapery. His arms were bare, with silver armlets on them; but his
white mantle was wrapped about him. Their hair is black and long, but,
according to the Indian custom, consisting of only one lock at the top
of the head. It is said they brought with them furs of value, which they
sold at Havre.
September 16th.—Dined at Prince Castelcicala’s, to meet the Countess
Esterhazy and her two daughters. The Austrian Ambassador, Count Apponyi,
with the Countess and his nephew, and Monseigneur Acton, also dined
there. The Countess Esterhazy is the most intimate friend of the
Dauphiness. When the latter went to Vienna from her prison at Paris, a
lady was placed about her who had a niece very handsome and agreeable.
At first the Dauphiness, accustomed to the mournful and appalling
solitude of the Temple, could not appreciate the society of this young
lady, but by degrees the cheerfulness and attentions of her companion
made their way into her heart, and ever since that time she has loved
her most sincerely. On the day on which the Princess gave her hand to
the Duke d’Angoulême, her young friend was united to Count Esterhazy;
and since her return to France she has exacted that every second year
the Countess should visit her and pass some time with her. Her Royal
Highness then takes her about to see everything that is interesting,
lodges her in the Park of St. Cloud, and bestows upon her every mark of
real affection. The Count and Countess have passed five winters in Rome
on account of his health; but they are now going to Hungary.
[1828.]
January 24th.—Went to the banker’s. Great preparations in the court-yard
for the forthcoming marriage of Mademoiselle Lafitte with the Prince de
la Moskwa, son of the late Marshal Ney. The young lady, it is said,
wanted to marry her father’s head clerk, but M. Lafitte had not
sufficient love for liberty and equality to allow this. It is curious to
observe how fond of titles are all these people who profess “liberal”
principles.
February 5th.—This morning the opening of the Chambers took place at the
Louvre, and the King made a good speech, which was applauded, and he was
welcomed, and accompanied at his departure by cries of “_Vive le Roi!_”
Speaking of the battle of Navarino, he called it _imprévue_; but alluded
to the glory of the French arms, and of their union with those of their
allies. I remarked, on hearing the speech read, that his Majesty placed
the King of England before the Emperor of Russia.[106] Ecclesiastical
affairs and public instruction are to be separate. It is said a very
wealthy and sensible man is appointed to be at the head of public
instruction—a lawyer, but of good religious and moral principles.[107]
21st.—Dined at Lady Downshire’s. Sir Thomas Fellowes there. He has been
in England since the battle of Navarino, and is returning to Toulon to
rejoin the squadron. This evening he saw the King, who spoke, as indeed
he always does, most cordially of England.
[On the 12th of April Miss Knight returned to England, and expressed
much astonishment at the improvements in London since her former visit.]
June 16th.—In the evening at Princess Sophia’s. Sir J. C. came in, and
gave a droll account of the magnificent breakfast given to-day by the
Duchess of St. Albans, at her villa near town. Almost all the best
musical performers of our nation were there, besides the Tyrolese
singers and others. A silver bread-basket of vast dimensions was handed
about, and an inscription on it was read aloud, announcing the happiness
of the Duke and Duchess in this, the first year of their married life,
and their intention of claiming the flitch of bacon at Dunmow six years
hence: for which purpose they had prepared this basket. The Dukes of
Cumberland and Sussex, and Prince Leopold, were there.
July 10th.—Dined at Lord Stafford’s. Miss Eden, Mr. and Mrs. Mason, Mr.
Wilkie, the celebrated painter, just returned from Italy and Spain, Mr.
and Mrs. Calcott, he a painter, and she the Mrs. Graham who was
governess to the children of the Emperor of Brazil, were of the party.
Saw some good views of Edinburgh, Stirling, and other parts of Scotland,
by Lady Stafford. We were received in the gallery where the Flemish
pictures are hung, and dined in the other, furnished with such noble
paintings, as also is the drawing-room—magnificent treasures! The four
great landscapes in the room last named are to me delightful.
29th.—Went early to Princess Augusta at Frogmore. The garden is much
improved, and in great beauty just now. Dear Princess Augusta makes all
happy around her.
[On the 13th of August, Miss Knight again left England for Paris, where
she remained until the 2nd of October. On that day she started for
Germany, and on her arrival at Frankfort, eight days afterwards,
received the melancholy news of the death of the Queen-Dowager of
Würtemberg, “who expired on Monday, the 6th, at a quarter before two—a
dreadful loss to the country where she lived, and to all who knew her.”
On the following day, October 11, Miss Knight reached Homburg, and was,
as usual, kindly greeted by the Landgrave and Landgravine.]
November 7th.—M. Möller, architect of the Grand-Duke of Hesse Darmstadt,
dined here, and he called upon me in the afternoon. He told me that the
Cathedral of Worms is of, what they call in Germany, Byzantine
architecture. There is a difference, he says, between that and the
Saxon; for our Saxon buildings in England are, in fact, imitations of
the Roman, whereas the Byzantine came from Constantinople, where the
Roman was intermixed with the Oriental, whence came the cupolas,
minarets, &c. He also mentioned that at Vienna were preserved many
records of the articles they used to receive there from Constantinople,
which was in its time the arbiter of taste. In return, the Germans sent
to that city slaves in great numbers, and these were the Slavi, or
people of the Russian States, whom the Germans made prisoners, and sold
to the Greek Emperors. M. Möller seems to be a man of great reading and
observation in his own line of study. The Cathedral of Mayence, he
added, is of the Byzantine order.
26th.—This morning one of the Landgrave’s officers, who is much employed
by him, and dines at the table every day, was married to the daughter of
the Landgrave’s Master of the Horse. He had been ennobled by the Emperor
of Austria at the request of the Landgravine, because if the young lady
had not married an “edelman,” or noble, she would have lost the portion
given to her by a Chapter to which she belongs. The Emperor signed the
letters of nobility, as a compliment, on the Landgravine’s birthday. The
wedding took place at the house of the lady’s father. After the
ceremony, her parents, according to the custom of the country,
surrounded the bride, and tied a handkerchief over her eyes. They then
took off her garland of myrtle and placed it on the head of the young
lady nearest to her, who happened to be her own sister. This is supposed
to prognosticate which is the young person who will be the soonest
married.
One day very much resembles another. This is the ordinary routine. At
seven the drum beats a réveil: a few minutes afterwards the stoves are
lighted. At half-past eight the servant brings hot water, and at nine,
coffee, boiled milk, a small white loaf, a piece of brown bread, a slice
of butter, a salt-cellar, and in a saucer ten small lumps of sugar. At
half-past eleven a message from the Landgravine to know how I have
slept, and if I should like to go out with her at a quarter or half-past
twelve. At which hour, if tolerably fine, we go out in a drosky, and
afterwards walk, returning home by a quarter before two, when the
trumpet sounds for dress. At two, it sounds again to serve up dinner. I
then go through a long passage, down twenty-five steps and up
twenty-five steps, which lead me to another long passage, and that to
the drawing-room, where I find two or three or more guests. The door
opens, and the gentleman esteemed the most considerable gives me his
arm. We walk into the dining-room, and stand still till the other door
is thrown open, when the grand maître d’hôtel, with a white wand and hat
in hand, enters, preceding the Landgrave and Landgravine, followed by
the aide-de-camp of the former and the maids of honour of the latter.
All sit down to table, the Landgrave having made me a sign to sit down
beside him on his left hand. On his right is the Landgravine, and next
to her one of his brothers—except when Princess Louise, their
sister-in-law, dines at table, for then she sits between the Landgrave
and Landgravine. Three or four times in the week the band plays during
dinner, after which the brother gives his arm to the Landgravine, and
the Landgrave his to me. During all these movements the ladies curtsey
and the gentlemen bow down to the ground. We walk into the drawing-room;
the Landgrave and his brother stand at one window; the Landgravine and
the ladies sit near another; the gentlemen stand at the other end of the
room, unless any one happens to be addressed by the Landgrave. Coffee is
served; after which the Landgrave and Landgravine leave the room, making
bows and curtseys, which are answered by profound bows from all present.
A maid of honour throws a shawl over the Landgravine’s shoulders and
walks after her, first turning to salute the company. The aide-de-camp
does the same, and follows the Landgrave, after which everybody retires.
The drum beats soon after as a salute to the Landgrave and Landgravine
as they drive out in a drosky, returning before six. About half-past six
the Landgravine sends for me. A servant with a lantern lights me down
stairs to her apartment, and I sit with her in her boudoir till eight
o’clock strikes. The servant then lights me through the passages and up
the twenty-five steps, and I arrive at the drawing-room, where I find a
maid of honour at the tea-table, and, about a quarter of an hour later,
the door flies open, and the Landgrave and Landgravine enter. The former
takes his tea, and then desires the card parties to be formed; he
playing at one table and the Landgravine at another. At a quarter before
nine the other door opens, and Prince Ferdinand, the Landgrave’s
youngest brother, comes in, and bows to the company. He walks up and
down and looks at the players, at a little distance; then sits down, and
then walks again. I sit at the corner of the Landgravine’s table. A few
minutes after, the drum beats for some time. At half-past nine the
aide-de-camp and a captain, who is always in waiting, come in with low
bows, and almost immediately afterwards a servant enters, goes up to the
grand maître, and announces supper. He is probably playing at the
Landgrave’s table, but, as soon as the game will permit, he rises, takes
his white wand and hat from the chair on which he had deposited them,
and comes up to the Landgravine’s table, where he stands till he catches
her eye. He then announces supper, makes a bow, and retires. As soon as
the parties break up, all go to supper, as before to dinner. The
Landgrave and Landgravine retire as soon as it is over; so do the
company; and a crowd of servants and kitchen-maids rush in to put out
the lights and carry away the plates and dishes. The guard is relieved
every two hours: at one, three, five, &c. At eleven at night a man blows
a horn eleven times, once at one, and three times at three. On Sundays
we dine at three. The Princes and officers all in full-dress uniforms,
and company, to the number of thirty to thirty-five, all full dressed.
On Mondays and Thursdays, the days for hunting, we dine at half-past
two.
In the latter part of December the Landgravine received a letter from
the Duchess of Gloucester, telling her that, on the 21st, the King
received the little Queen, or Princess, of Portugal, Donna Maria da
Gloria, at Windsor Castle, the apartments of which were fitted up with
great elegance and magnificence. The Duchess was there with the Duke,
and the Duke and Duchess of Clarence, the Duke of Wellington, &c. &c.
All thought the little Princess remarkably like poor Princess Charlotte,
though on a smaller scale. She is nine years and a half old, very fair,
with blue eyes. She was dressed like a young person of eighteen, and had
fine jewels, with her father’s portrait. She breakfasted with the King,
and behaved very properly.
[Miss Knight left Homburg on the 13th of January, and proceeded to
Louisburg, where she found the ladies and gentlemen of the Court still
grieving over the loss of the late Queen-Dowager. The Landgrave of
Hesse-Homburg died, almost suddenly, on the 3rd of March following.]
Stuttgard, Jan. 23rd.—Received a message from the King and Queen, asking
me to dine with them and meet the English Minister. At a quarter before
five I went to the palace, and at five we dined. Princess Pauline was
there, and the usual persons of the household, but no other company,
except Mr. and Mrs. Desbrowe. The Queen seemed much affected, and shed
tears in speaking of the late Queen-Dowager. The King spoke of her with
the highest esteem and the deepest gratitude. He said that during the
fourteen years which had elapsed since the death of his father, he had
never in one instance had reason to complain of his stepmother, but, on
the contrary, had always experienced from her the kindest and most
judicious conduct towards himself and his family. Princess Pauline was
very civil and very gay, for she is much pleased with the idea of her
approaching marriage with the Duke of Nassau.
February 25th.—Went to a ball at Court in the state apartments, which
are magnificent, and really elegant; the music good, and the rooms
perfectly well lighted. It was Princess Pauline’s birthday. The Duke of
Nassau was there, and, it seems, made her some fine presents on the
occasion. He is about thirty-six, not handsome, and rather short; but
apparently very good-natured, and not ill-looking. He was with the Duke
of Wellington at the battle of Waterloo. Prince Augustus was at the
ball. He goes into the army in about three months. I came away before
supper, but saw the tables set out in a very handsome style.
April 21st.—The Duke of Nassau arrived with his grand chamberlain and
two aides-de-camp. All are to be lodged at the palace. The
apartments—which, I think, are those of the late Queen-Dowager—are
dressed out with young trees, flowers, &c. The King and Queen have
invited me to the wedding, the dinner, and the Polonaise ball for
Thursday, but I have excused myself, from being still weak.[108]
23rd.—This day the Duke of Nassau was married to Princess Pauline. The
bride’s jewels are valued at 300,000 florins.
May 25th.—Dined with the King and Queen. There was no company, but some
of their household. They were very gracious, and I took leave of them
with feelings of sincere gratitude.
Baden, June 7th.—The weather improved, and the country in great beauty.
The theatre opens this evening with the opera of “Tancredi.” Nine
hundred and ninety-three strangers already arrived, though the “season”
has not yet commenced. Many new houses have been built since I was here
in 1824.
8th.—Walked in the afternoon up the hills, where the scenery is very
pleasing, and the grass ornamented with wild flowers. I went into the
garden of the Grand-Duchess, whose house stands on a little eminence.
Baden is composed of various hills, which render its situation very
picturesque, and the running rivulets from little cascades, added to the
magnificent oaks which enrich the scenery, form altogether a very
interesting picture. The shape of the hills does not compose so good a
background as might be wished, but the houses, though not of regular
architecture, are pretty and fanciful. Most of them have terraces, or
balconies, with flowers, and they are interspersed among the high trees
on the hills and hillocks.
July 1st.—Baden appears to fill daily. The Grand-Duchess Stéphanie
arrived this evening. It seems she was a niece of Count Beauharnais, the
first husband of Joséphine, and that Lady Bute (the wife of Sir James
Pulteney) took compassion on her, and had her educated in the south of
France. She was forced to go to Paris by Bonaparte, who also compelled
her to marry the Grand-Duke of Baden, against _her_ inclination and
_his_. Lady Bute left her 1000_l._ in her will, which Bonaparte would
not allow her to accept. The executors, however, placed it in the funds,
and she has since received it, with the accumulated interest, settling
both on her youngest daughter. She had two sons, who died, and has now
three daughters. She usually resides at Mannheim, but went this spring
to Paris to consult an oculist, and was well received by the King,
Dauphin, Dauphiness, &c. &c.
August 21.—The Russians are supposed to be by this time in possession of
Constantinople. By the last accounts they were within a few leagues of
that capital.[109] I remember my mother used to say, “Russia wants to
drive the only honest man out of Europe.”
[In the beginning of September, Miss Knight quitted Baden and travelled
by way of Zurich, Lucerne, Berne, Friburg, Geneva, Mont Cenis, and Susa,
to Turin. In that city she remained only a few days, and then continued
her route to Genoa, where she passed the ensuing winter. She here met an
old Roman acquaintance, Signor Gagliassi, who, after visiting her one
day, composed the following lines of doubtful gallantry:
Salve, cui Noctis dedit Anglica patria nomen!
Noctis, quam propriam docta Minerva vocat.
Salve, quam vidi Romæ, Arcada! inter euntem,
Et nunc in Liguri lætor adesse solo.
Salve, quae pulchram ducens, viridemque senectam,
Ævo et consilio fœmina Nestor eris!
Accipe, quam scribo curru properante, salutem;
Vota tibi rediens fervidiora feram.
This “epigramma” Miss Knight copied out and sent to a friend,
accompanied by the following verses:
Gagliassi seems to think it strange
That I still breathe the air of life,
And still abroad delight to range—
He says I might be Nestor’s wife.
The compliment has made you stare,
And, I confess, has made me smile;
But, could I Nestor’s wisdom share,
Such union might be worth the while.
As Greece is all the fashion now,
To Pylos I my course might steer,
And, should old Nestor make his bow,
There keep a Court and give good cheer.
But Night, dark Night, is not my name;
I spring not from Minerva’s race;
From Chivalry my lineage came;
Romance alone in me you trace.
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