DEPARTURE FROM LOUISBURG—PARIS—CORONATION OF CHARLES X.—LONDON—THE
PRINCESS CHARLOTTE’S MONUMENT—ANECDOTES OF CHARLES X.—RETURN TO
GERMANY.
JOURNAL CONTINUED—1825.
APRIL 1st.—Good Friday. On the 2nd I was invited to breakfast in Baron
G.’s apartment, where I met all the Queen’s ladies and gentlemen. We had
a little music, and painted eggs were placed on the floor, between which
the young ladies danced blindfolded. The two young Princes, Frederick
and Augustus, came to dinner, and are to stay till Wednesday. In the
evening there was an Italian from Brescia with canary-birds, that played
tricks. At tea the Queen-Dowager gave eggs, and little presents of
purses, bracelets, crosses, seals, or something of that sort, to all the
ladies. She gave to myself a seal, a watch-key, a cross in bronze, a
steel buckle in the shape of a lyre. A few days previously she had
presented me with a writing-box of her own painting, an amethyst
ornament, and some German books.
April 21st.—I left Louisburg with great regret, and slept that night at
Carlsruhe.
[On the 28th, Miss Knight reached Paris, having travelled by way of
Rheims, where great preparations were making for the approaching
coronation of Charles X. Lord Grenville had succeeded Sir Charles Stuart
as British Ambassador at the French Court. The Duke of Northumberland
was also in Paris on a special mission, to represent the King of England
at the coronation. His Grace’s suite was very brilliant, his liveries in
the old-fashioned style magnificent, and his carriages and horses the
admiration of the Parisians. On the 7th of June the Duke, assisted by
Lord Grenville and Sir George Nayler, Garter King of Arms, invested the
King of France with the insignia of the Most Noble Order of the Garter.]
June 15th.—Went with Lady Downshire and Lady Mary Hill to the great ball
at the Duke of Northumberland’s. The Dauphin, Dauphiness, Duchess de
Berri, and the Orleans family were there; as also the young King and
Queen of Würtemberg, who are here under the title of Count and Countess
Teck. There were fireworks, splendid illuminations, white and gold
banners intermixed with flowers, and the Duchess of Northumberland had a
dress trimmed with lilies for the occasion. There were about fifteen
hundred people, but the apartments are large, and there is a very long
gallery, so that the crowd did not appear so great. All the young
noblemen[101] belonging to the embassy had lilies in their button-holes,
and stood on the stairs to present a bouquet to each lady as she came
up.
[Towards the end of June, Miss Knight returned to London.]
July 13th.—Dined with Princess Augusta, and afterwards went with her to
the Duke of Sussex’s, at Kensington Palace. He gave a dinner to the Duke
and Duchess of Cambridge, and a few people were invited for the evening.
All the Royal Family were there, for besides Princess Augusta, there
were present the Duchess of Kent, the Duchess of Gloucester, and
Princess Sophia, Princess Sophia Matilda (the Duke is gone to
Cheltenham), Prince Leopold, and the Duke of Brunswick and his brother.
The Duchesses of Bedford and Hamilton, Lady Jersey, and several
gentlemen, were also there. Mathews, the comedian, gave two acts of his
Imitations, which were very laughable. We came away before one.
September 10th.—Went to Claremont on a visit to Prince Leopold and the
Duchess of Kent. His mother, the Duchess of Coburg, is also staying with
him. The little Princess Victoria is very like our Royal Family, and
very handsome. I was much overpowered at coming to this place. The poor
old servants so glad to see me! I walked in the Park with the Baroness
de Spinetti, the Duchess of Kent’s lady, and wished to see the cottage
begun by Princess Charlotte, and which has been converted into a
monument to her memory, but the good lady thought it would afflict me.
11th.—Sunday. Went to church at Esher with Prince Leopold, attended by
Sir Robert Gardiner and the Duchess of Kent. After service the Baroness
de Spinetti and I called upon Lady Gardiner, and saw some fine sketches,
taken by Sir Robert in Spain and Sicily. In the evening we looked over
prints, and the Prince, the Duchess of Kent, and Princess Feodore, sang.
The Duchess of Coburg has two young ladies with her as maids of honour.
12th.—Left Claremont after breakfast, and went to Thomas’s Hotel,
Berkeley-square, where I found Lady Downshire, Lady Mary Hill, and Lord
Augustus.
22nd.—Arrived at Windsor, and stayed there till the 1st of October. On
the 25th, I went to see the monument erected by subscription to the late
Princess Charlotte. Matthew Wyatt was charged with the execution of it,
though he was brought up to painting, not to sculpture. Mr. O’Reilly,
the surgeon and apothecary, has the key, as his Majesty is not on good
terms with the canons. It is not to be open to the public until the King
has seen it. The chapel in which it is placed is the first to the left
of the end door which fronts the choir. It has painted glass,
representing, I think, St. Peter and St. Paul, and the light which falls
on the monument from the left is of a gold colour, and that from the
right purple, or rather lilac. The figure of the Princess, covered with
a sheet, is represented as on her death-bed, but appears convulsive.
Four veiled mourners are at the corners. Above the lid is another figure
of the Princess, as rising to heaven and drawing aside a curtain. It is
certainly a resemblance, but too large. There is an angel on each side,
one of whom holds the child.
[On the 14th December, Miss Knight was once more in Paris. She herself
says that Monsieur—at this time Charles X.—once observed to her: “Vous
aimez maintenant vivre en France; mais je me rappelle que vous m’aviez
dit en Angleterre que vous n’aimeriez pas d’y aller.” “Naturellement,
Monseigneur,” she replied; “la France n’était pas alors chez elle.” He
smiled, and said, “Mais l’Angleterre a été toujours chez elle, et
toujours les livres ouverts pour vous.” Though not very appropriate,
another anecdote of Monsieur related by Miss Knight may be here
introduced. “I recollect,” she says, “being one evening at the Tuileries
(I believe it was the first time I went to Monsieur’s; it was in 1816),
and while we were standing round in the usual circle, a lady, rather
advanced in years, seemed anxiously looking for the moment when her turn
should come to be spoken to by Monsieur. She caught his eye while there
were still one or two between them, and he bowed and smiled. When he
came up to her he spoke kindly, and addressed her by her name. “Ah,
Monseigneur!” she cried, apparently much agitated, “il y a si longtemps
que je n’ai pas eu l’honneur de voir votre Altesse Royale, et pourtant
elle se souvient de moi! Les années changent tout——” Monsieur
interrupted her, and said, “Les années! Quant aux dernières vingt-cinq
il ne faut plus les compter.”]
[1826.]
January 11th.—Went with Mrs. Lutwyche to the “reception” at the Palais
Royal. All Paris there in full dress, and the room very hot. The young
Duke de Chartres, who is little more than fifteen, appeared in full
uniform of Hussars, and went round with his father, mother, and aunt. He
looked remarkably handsome and elegant. It is said that Duke Mathieu de
Montmorency is appointed governor to the Duke de Bordeaux. There have
been riots[102] at St. Petersburg, on account of the refusal of the
Grand-Duke Constantine to ascend the throne.
26th.—In the evening to the Duchess of Orleans’, where a small party had
been invited to meet the Dauphin, who dined there. Cards, backgammon,
books of prints, &c.
February 1st.—At the Duchess de Narbonne’s, where there was a large
party to hear Mdlle. Delphine Gay[103] recite verses of her own
composition. Her mother was with her, and I understand they are rather
rich people in the class of employés. They were much dressed. The
poetess is pretty, and when she recites has expression in her eyes and
tone, but her voice is harsh. She recited a passage from a poem of her
own on the restoration to life of the widow’s son, and afterwards
another fragment on the triumphant entry of King Alfred. It seems she
has recited some of her verses before the French Academy.
27th.—At the Duchess de Narbonne’s, where many ladies and gentlemen were
assembled to hear M. de St. Priest,[104] a very young man, read a
tragedy he has written, entitled “Clotilde.” Clotaire and Sigebert, the
two sons of Clovis, are at variance, and their mother, Clotilde,
endeavours to reconcile them, but, according to history, it finishes
most horribly. There are many fine lines in the play, and also
interesting situations.
March 19th.—At the Ambassador’s Chapel. Bishop Luscombe preached. He was
consecrated by the Bishops of the Episcopal Church of Scotland, and is
on the Continent to exercise his functions as a prelate without any
particular diocese: watching over the flock of travelling English. He is
said to be a very respectable man, and his sermon was good.
April 12th.—Celebration of the anniversary of the King’s entrance into
Paris in 1814. There was a review in the Champ de Mars, but the wind and
rain were unfavourable to it. I dined with Madame de Labédoyère, and in
the evening accompanied Lady Mary Hill to the Duchess of Hamilton’s. The
Duchess sang delightfully, as also did the Countess Apponyi, the wife of
the Austrian Minister. The Countess is an excellent musician, and sings
with great taste.
30th.—At the Ambassador’s Chapel. Mr. Sidney Smith preached on the
immortality of the soul, as announced by the dissatisfaction felt here,
the desire to be remembered after death, &c. &c.
May 3rd.—To-day the King and Queen go in procession to several churches,
for the Jubilee, and they lay the first stone of the monument to be
erected to Louis XVI., on the spot where he was executed. The gendarmes
would not allow carriages to pass, so I was obliged, after making an
attempt, to come home again. I heard in the evening that the ceremony
was very fine and imposing. The Nuncio says that it was more so than the
coronation at Rheims. After the performance of an expiatory service, the
first stone of the monument was laid by the King himself, in the
presence of all the Royal Family—except the Dauphiness—a deputation of
Peers and Deputies, the Great Officers of State, Courts of Justice,
Ambassadors, &c. &c. The Place Louis Quinze is now to be called Place
Louis Seize.
7th.—Went to chapel. In the evening to the Tuileries, with the Marquise
de Vaudreuil. There were many ladies present, as all the Royal
personages received, and they are soon going into the country. The King
looked remarkably well, and appeared very cheerful. Amongst other
things, speaking to me of activity, &c., he said (what is very true, and
exemplified in himself), “Il ne faut pas se laisser aller.” It is a long
way through the subterranean, the court, the theatre, and the gallery of
the chapel, to the Duchess de Berri’s apartments. She had a hat on.
June 11th.—Called upon Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg. Went afterwards to
the Bois de Boulogne by a new road, called the “Champs Elysées,” in
compliment to the King. Young trees are planted on each side, and it
will be very pretty when they are grown larger; in the mean while, it
shortens the distance.
August 4th.—Dined at Bishop Luscombe’s. Sir Sidney Smith there. After a
residence of many years in France since the peace, he seems to think of
going to England, having taken leave of the King at St. Cloud. Lord
Guilford has lent him a house near Walmer Castle, but he is going first
to Dieppe.
15th.—This is Assumption Day, as it is traditionally called in Roman
Catholic countries, from a belief that on this day the Virgin Mary was
taken up to heaven. A great procession of the King and his family takes
place, in observance of a vow made by Louis XIII., by which he placed
himself, his family, and kingdom, under the protection of the Virgin.
To-day also closes the Jubilee, and the King has given a silver statue
of the Virgin and infant Saviour to the Cathedral of Notre-Dame.
September 23rd.—Arrived at Mayence. The melancholy appearance of that
once flourishing city is really painful to behold. The inhabitants say
that they would be totally ruined were it not for the money spent by the
military. But the taxes they have to pay to their present master, the
Grand-Duke of Hesse Darmstadt, and the impediments to commerce and
manufacture, with the departure of so many noble families resident there
during the time of their Electors, reduce them to a state of great
misery. So much for the benefits arising from revolutionary changes and
extinction of ecclesiastical power! They say they were better off under
the French than under the Grand-Duke, but nothing to be compared to
their ancient Electoral government, and as the French were the cause of
that being overthrown, they naturally date their misfortunes from that
period. The military had given some fêtes during the summer, and there
was to be music and illuminations on the following day, Sunday, the
24th. That morning I left Mayence, to see the lovely banks of the Rhine,
which we followed as far as Coblentz, by an excellent road. The old
castles and ruined monasteries, the beautiful trees and rocks, render
the journey very interesting. At Bingen, about fifteen miles from
Mayence, we entered the Prussian territory. The postmasters give a
receipt at every stage. A printed paper was also given to me for my
baggage, and all seemed to be done with civility and regularity. Under
Bingen, on a rock in the Rhine, are the ruins of the Mice Tower, so
called from the story of Hatto, the Bishop of Mayence, who was said to
have been eaten up by those animals. There is a legend belonging to each
of the old ruined castles and monasteries. The banks of the river are
covered with vines, raised in rows one above the other. At St. Goar
there was formerly a very large monastery. The place appears more
comfortable than many others, and the situation is picturesque. I paid
thirteen posts to Coblentz, but the distance is not so much, as I went
in ten hours. At one place, where the road passed under high rocks very
near the river, and had others of a similar description in view on the
opposite side, the postilion stopped and blew his horn for some minutes
in a very agreeable manner, which was perfectly answered by the echo.
25th.—In the morning oppressively hot. Walked down to the banks of the
Rhine, where I witnessed the departure of the “coche d’eau” for Mayence:
two horses, with very long ropes, were to drag it up the river. In the
afternoon I went in a calèche, with a very intelligent driver, to see
the fortress on the other side of the Rhine, which the King of Prussia
is building on the ruins of Ehrenbreitstein. The works are very fine.
They were begun in 1816, and will require four years more to finish
them. The rock appears almost perpendicular, yet I went up in the
carriage with great ease and safety, as it is remarkably well made and a
perfect zig-zag. I saw the cannons, barracks, magazines, &c. Eight
thousand men, with provisions and ammunition, are to be provided here,
and the fortress is to be called Frederick William, after its founder.
The view is very extensive from the platform at the top. The Moselle,
throwing itself into the Rhine, the town of Coblentz, the bridge of
boats, and the circumjacent country, were at my feet, and the four forts
opposite were pointed out by my conductor, named Francis, Alexander,
Constantine, and Wellington. The town, however, appeared enveloped in a
pitchy cloud. A heavy thunderstorm was coming on, and I foolishly hoped
to get back before it should break over our heads. I therefore hurried
away, and, though the hood and apron of the calèche were put up, my maid
and I were wet to the skin by the time we reached the hotel—the wind
blowing torrents of rain into the carriage.
26th.—Returned to Mayence. The prospects appeared, if possible, more
beautiful than before. It is not the lovely, enchanting style of beauty
which Italian scenery presents, but it is wild and romantic. It is the
theatre of the mythology of the middle ages.
30th.—Went to Homburg, and found the Landgrave in the court—he had seen
me drive in. He took me to the Landgravine, and nothing could be more
kind and cordial than their reception of me.
October 21st.—We dined early, that we might go at half-past one to the
Feldberg, the highest mountain in this part of the country—in ancient
times the Taunus. The weather was beautiful. The Landgrave and his
aide-de-camp, M. Herman, were the vanguard; next came the Landgravine
and Princess Augusta of Solms; then Miss Cooper and myself; and lastly,
the two maids of honour, Mdlles. de Stein and de Haller: all in droskies
with four horses, which ran up the mountain like greyhounds. The road
passed through woods till very near the summit, which is covered with
luxuriant grass and fragments of rock. The Landgrave had sent thirty men
the day before to repair the road. There is a mass of rock with grottoes
in it, which is called the Rock of Brunehilda. The view from the summit
is very extensive, embracing the Rhine and the Maine, with the towns,
cities, and villages on their banks, Falkenstein, Konigstein, and other
mountains, with the ruins of castles and fortifications on other parts
of the Taunus, inferior in height to the Feldberg, which is two thousand
six hundred and six feet above the surface of the sea. The air felt
sharp and pure. We partook of coffee and cakes here. Warm punch was also
served; for the grottoes in Brunehilda’s rock served as a kitchen, as
well as for stables for the horses—a table, chairs, &c., having been
previously sent up. We returned home with a fine sunset.
November 11th.—Arrived at the Castle of Louisburg about six in the
evening. Found the Queen-Dowager and all her society most kind and
friendly.
19th.—Went to Stuttgard, in consequence of an invitation to dine with
the King and Queen. Dressed at the Hôtel du Roi d’Angleterre. At a
quarter-past four Baroness Seckendorff, the young Queen’s first lady,
came for me, and took me to the palace. She introduced me to the Queen
in her Majesty’s private apartments, which are very elegant. The Queen
seated me on a sofa by her side, and the King soon afterwards came in
and sat down. They were both very gracious and conversible. At five they
withdrew, and we went down to the apartments below, where we found the
gentlemen and ladies of the Court, and the Prince and Princess of
Hohenlohe œhringen, which last is a first cousin of his Majesty. Soon
afterwards the King and Queen came in, and we went to dinner. The King
placed the Princess of œhringen on his right hand, and made me sit
beside him on his left. He talked to me all dinner-time, chiefly about
the domestic events of our Royal Family in 1814, when I was with the
late Princess Charlotte. After dinner we returned to the drawing-room,
where coffee was served; and the King and Queen, after a very gracious
leave-taking, quitted the room and went to the theatre. Madame de
Seckendorff and the Queen’s Chamberlain took me through the palace to
the Queen-Dowager’s box, and five minutes later the King and Queen
entered their private box; the rest of the Royal Family occupying the
great box in the centre of the house. Between the opera and the ballet
the King and Queen joined the Royal Family, and also spoke to Lady
Erskine in the adjoining box. I returned to Louisburg after the ballet,
arriving there a little past eleven.
December 1st.—This day the Constituent Assembly, or States of
Würtemberg, meet. It is held every third year. The King opens the
meeting, and the Prince of Hohenlohe œhringen is the President. No
ladies are admitted as spectators.
15th.—At dinner the Prince of Wallerstein; descended by the female side
from the Würtemberg family. This young man is Regent of the little
States belonging to his family, his eldest brother having renounced his
rights on marrying a gardener’s daughter, with whom he retired to a
castle to enjoy rural felicity. The second brother, who is now Prince,
is in the Austrian service, and on garrison duty in Bohemia, and has
entrusted the Regency to this Prince, who is the third son.
20th.—After dinner I went up-stairs to see a fine suite of apartments
above those of the late King, called the Crown Prince’s. This castle is
an immense building. Were it inhabited at all in proportion to its size,
it would be very cheerful, for all the apartments are light and
spacious. The hangings and furniture of those of the Crown Prince are of
damask, and there is much gilding. The pictures are not good, but in
some of the rooms very numerous.
24th.—In the evening the Queen made her Christmas presents to her ladies
and gentlemen. There was a table also for me, covered with pretty
things, including a gold chain, a cross, and earrings, a silver cup and
saucer, a silver tower for heating water, three gowns,[105] &c.
31st.—The year was finished very cordially in the castle, and very
noisily out of doors; for notwithstanding all the edicts against it,
gunpowder announces the termination of the old year and the commencement
of the new one, to the great annoyance of the peaceable inhabitants. In
the town there was a ball, and in the castle “pictures” were represented
by the principal dancers at the theatre.
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