FRANCE REVISITED—CHANTILLY—PARISIAN SOCIETY—THE COURT OF THE
BOURBONS—THE PRINCE DE CONDÉ—MARSHAL MARMONT—THE FRENCH
STAGE—INVITATIONS FROM THE PRINCESS CHARLOTTE.
JOURNAL CONTINUED.
MONTREUIL, May, 1816.—The appearance of France is exactly what it was
when I first travelled, but the inhabitants wear a different aspect. The
women are not much altered; if anything, rather graver; the men more
stern and sententious than before the Revolution. The people we met
looked pale and wretched, and, except the postilions, we saw scarcely a
single young man. The woman of the inn at Montreuil seemed a good
Royalist, and talked with much feeling of the _bon Roi_, who had kissed
her child when she saw him at Calais. Some of our Horse Artillery and of
the 7th Light Dragoons (Lord Anglesea’s) are still quartered in this
neighbourhood. The woman did not speak ill of our troops, but owned that
our young officers were twice nearly setting fire to her house.
12th.—Some of our party walked into the church at Clermont, and found
the curate and vicar instructing the children. The shops, however, were
mostly open, though it was Sunday; and the last stage to Montreuil we
were driven by a priest, brother of one of the postilions, the other one
being absent.
We had a pleasant drive from Clermont to Chantilly; the people dancing
in the fields. We passed through the ruined and desolate park of the
Prince of Condé; but, melancholy as its appearance was, it was pleasant
to think he is again the master, and every one looking forward to his
passing some time here this spring. When we came to the inn, which is
called “Bourbon Condé,” the mistress of the house, a very intelligent
and loyal person, told us she was now sure of the Prince coming, for
three hampers of Champagne had arrived. She gave a dreadful account of
the sufferings of the people from the conscription under Bonaparte, and
other acts of oppression. We did not, however, find that the English
were much liked, though a Mr. Jolliffe, who had been there with Lord
Combermere, had given an order for purchasing four hundred cub foxes,
which are to be sent over fifty at a time. We saw some of these
creatures ready for transportation. The French pay forty sous a head for
their destruction.
Paris, May 16.—I called on Lady Elizabeth Stuart, who had sent me a
card. Her husband, Sir Charles Stuart, ambassador from our Court, is son
of the late General Sir Charles Stuart, son of Lord Bute, the Prime
Minister at the beginning of our present King’s reign. The house
inhabited by our ambassador was the palace of Pauline, Princess
Borghese, sister of Bonaparte, and is a magnificent and elegantly
fitted-up dwelling; perhaps rather too showy. I called, also, on the
Duke de Sérent and his daughter, Madame de Narbonne, whose husband,
ambassador at Naples, has lately been made a Duke, as a compliment for
his negotiating the marriage between the Duke de Berri and Princess
Caroline of Naples. The Duke de Sérent’s hotel is beautiful, both with
respect to situation and neatness: it has a terrace overlooking a
garden.
I engaged a very pretty lodging in Rue Grenoble, Faubourg St. Germain,
where I have a hall, dining-room, drawing-room, and three bedrooms, all
remarkably well furnished in silk and muslin, besides servants’ rooms,
closets, stable, and coach-house, for four hundred francs a month.
Sunday, May 19.—I had a note from the Duchess de Sérent, to say that
Madame, Duchess d’Angoulême, would see me at three. I first called on
Madame de Sérent, whom I found on a ground-floor of the Tuileries, her
room filled with plants and flowers. At three I crossed the court, and
entered an apartment of the palace to the right. In the first hall were
guards, and in the ante-room pages, who announced me. Madame came out of
an inner room into the salon, where she made me sit down beside her, and
kept me for more than half an hour. She spoke of Princess Charlotte’s
marriage, of the forthcoming one of the Duke de Berri, and of her regard
for the late mother of the Duchess, whom she had known at Vienna. She
expressed much gratitude towards the Regent, but seemed rather surprised
that he had not dismissed Sir Robert Wilson from the service. Sir
Charles Stuart had sent my name in for presentation to the King and
Madame for the following Monday; but the Duchess de Sérent advised me to
put it off as a useless ceremony if I could see them in private.
22nd.—Went to Calaghan’s, the banker, where, for 65_l._ sterling, I
received 1788 francs, the exchange being considerably in our favour. I
dined with Prince Castelcicala, to meet Princess Broglie and (her
daughter) Baroness Nicolay; and afterwards went with them to the Théâtre
des Variétés, on the Boulevards, where we saw four “petites pièces,”
performed by good actors with great spirit, and altogether very
laughable. There were some political allusions, which were clapped with
great loyalty, as was also the air of “Henri Quatre,” which was played
twice. All the ladies were in morning dresses, with great bonnets. It is
a pretty little theatre, and the manner of lighting it is much better
for the eyes than ours, and more advantageous for the performers.
23rd.—M. de Bernis called upon me, and said the reason why three
magistrates of Amiens had been dismissed from their employments was that
they had obliged a gentleman to say that the Duke of Orleans[66] had a
right to the crown of France after the present royal family. They had
threatened him with instant death if he refused. Their defence was, that
they meant it as a joke; but the Government took it up seriously.
26th.—I went out to make some visits, but found no one at home except
Cardinal de Bayane, who is old and deaf, but otherwise not much altered
from what he was at Rome. I am afraid he has “incensed” the idol, and
lowered himself in the opinion of many by so doing; particularly by
obliging his niece to become lady of the bedchamber to Madame Mère.
27th.—In the evening, a little before eight, 1 went to the Tuileries to
be presented to the King. The guards, who lined the grand staircase, and
were stationed in the hall, presented arms as the ladies passed, and an
officer showed us the way. We stopped in the salon which forms the
ante-room to that in which the Duchesses and wives of the Ambassadors
and Marshals waited for the King. When they had had their audience, the
English ladies were the first admitted. Lady Hardwick, Lady Caledon,
Lady le Despenser, the two beautiful Ladies Bingham, Lady Belmere, and
two or three others, formed the group. We had long trains, and lappets,
but no hoops. The King was very gracious, and spoke to me in English.
The Dukes d’Angoulême and Berri were standing near him, and Monsieur
stood by their side: the latter talked to me about Princess Charlotte.
We were introduced by the Duke de la Châtre, “premier gentilhomme de la
chambre,” and the “grand maître des cérémonies,” M. de Brézé. We passed
on to the great gallery, and going down another flight of stairs, found
our carriages at the further gate. The gentlemen go to Court in the
morning. The apartments were well lighted, and the whole had an
appearance of decorum and state which was very striking. I felt a most
pleasing sensation from seeing the King in his own palace after so long
and dreadful a revolution.
28th.—In the morning we went with the Marquis de Dolomieu to the King’s
Library, where he introduced an Orientalist, a M. Langlés, who was very
obliging, and showed us autographs of Racine, La Fontaine, Voltaire,
Boileau, Louis XIV., Madame de Maintenon, &c., and a set of drawings
(coloured), in a manuscript, describing everything relating to
tournaments. He asserted they were the work of Réné of Anjou, father of
Margaret, Queen of Henry VI. I should rather have supposed them to be of
the time of Pietro Perugino, the master of Raphael. They are excellent,
and truly interesting. M. Langlés is celebrated for his skill in Asiatic
researches, and he showed us Arabic and Tartar manuscripts, &c.
29th.—Breakfasted with the Chevalier de Bayane: chickens, lampreys,
petits pâtés, fruit, green peas, cream, tea, coffee, wine; in short,
everything that can be imagined. He lives with his brother, the
Cardinal, and several of their relations, male and female, in a very
handsome house purchased by the Cardinal. They are both aged, but in
good health and spirits.
31st.—Dined at the Duke de Sérent’s, where I met M. de B——, a
distinguished deputy, who is a pure Royalist, and has written well on
the subject of divorce. It appears that these pure Royalists have a
great objection to the Charter and the Ministers, whom the allies
timorously support, to the great annoyance of the former. The
ministerial party give the Royalists the character of enthusiasts, and
tell you they are revengeful and unconscionable; and Society suffers by
all these dissensions. The Royalists, however, are much to be pitied.
They have recovered little more than the privilege of remaining in
France, while the others preserve their property, or the power of
disposing of it to the best advantage.
June 1.—I went with Prince Castelcicala to the old Duchess of Orleans.
She has a fine house, which was formerly that of the director
Cambacérès. She seemed very good natured, and invited me to dine with
her the first day the Prince could bring me. She had a lady in
attendance, and an old Abbé, whom she calls her chancellor, and to whom
some people have thought her to be privately married. An old Bishop was
visiting her, and two ladies, one of whom was Baroness de Talleyrand,
formerly ambassadress at Naples. We afterwards called on Lady Hardwick,
and on the Duchess d’Escars, who, as the wife of the grand maître
d’hôtel, lives in the Pavillon de Flore, at the Tuileries, very high up,
and, of course, commanding an extensive view. Her apartments are attics,
and small, but finely furnished and fitted up, which was done by
Bonaparte for Madame C——, one of his favourites, and reader to Marie
Louise.
3rd.—In the evening I went to pay my visit to Monsieur and the Duke de
Berri, who live in the Pavillon Marsan. Their apartments are simply and
elegantly furnished. They were both very courteous, Monsieur
particularly so, and everybody about them attentive.
4th.—I called on Mrs. and Miss Rawdon, who are just arrived; and we
afterwards went to see the house of Cardinal Fesch, Bonaparte’s uncle,
who is at Rome, and his furniture here is selling off. The King of
Holland and the Prince of Orange lived here, and the chairs and sofas
are not the better for their servants. We saw many pictures, but none
struck me as very fine. There were some beautiful vases and busts, and
some good antique bas-reliefs. The house is spacious, and was built by
the Cardinal, who endeavoured to make it an Italian palace, but his
taste was not perfect enough for the undertaking.
6th.—In the morning I went to the Palais Royal, and to M. Vien, a
painter, son of the senator Vien, who was formerly director of the
French Academy at Rome. I saw some beautiful small paintings, historical
compositions, which he did at the age of ninety-three. He has been dead
only six years. The son told me he had a Prussian officer lodging in his
house, and liked him so well that he begged him to remain beyond the
time allotted for his quarters. The inhabitants of Versailles also spoke
of the Prussians as doing no more harm than they could possibly help. In
the orangery there, by-the-by, we were shown a statue of Louis XIV.,
whose head had been cut off to make room for that of Brutus. M. Vien had
in a small room the bust of a Garde du Corps, his friend, which he had
begun before Bonaparte’s landing, and worked at by stealth during the
three months of his usurpation, the original having gone to the King at
Ghent. He said it was incredible what he and his family had suffered.
Yet his father had been made a senator, and was buried in the Pantheon.
In the evening I went to the Duchess of Narbonne’s, where I saw Prince
Hohenlohe, who has just entered the service of France. He is to have the
command of a German brigade, and has the promise of a Cordon Bleu.
Afterwards I went to the Countess de Chastellux, where I saw some
drawings made by her second daughter, illustrative of events in the war
of La Vendée, witnessed by her cousin, Madame de la Rochejacquelein, who
has written her Memoirs.
8th.—I dined with the Dowager-Duchess of Orleans. There were several
ladies present, and Prince Hohenlohe and Prince Castelcicala also dined
there. The dinner was very good, chiefly consisting of fish, and when we
went into the drawing-room the Duchess and two other ladies worked. A
card-party was formed, and a backgammon-table set out. They were
cheerful and pleasant, and the Duchess extremely affable.
9th.—In the evening I went with M. and Madame de Béthisy to the Prince
de Condé’s, who inhabits a pavilion of the Hôtel de Bourbon, which,
notwithstanding the bad weather, appeared to be very beautifully
situated in the midst of a garden. The good old Prince is wheeled about
in his arm-chair, and his memory often fails him, but he received us
with great politeness. His premier gentilhomme de la chambre, Count
Banqui du Cayla, introduced me; and Madame de Rully, the natural
daughter of the Duke de Bourbon, assisted in doing the honours. She is
mild and pleasing. Amongst other ladies who came in, Madame de Béthisy
pointed out one who, she said, was a daughter of the grandfather of the
present Duke of Orleans.
10th.—Went to the Duchess of Orleans, and to a ball at Mrs.
Hammond’s.[67] Mr. H. is residing here as commissary for settling
commercial and boundary matters, &c. He inhabits the house which was
formerly Joseph Bonaparte’s, and, what is singular enough, the same
Joseph Bonaparte has just purchased in America the house in which Mr.
Hammond was married.
11th.—Dined at Prince de Condé’s. M. and Madame de Béthisy and several
officers were of the party. M. and Madame de Rully live with the Prince.
The latter was very cheerful and kind, and after dinner sent for some
little portraits to show me. One of them was of a natural sister of his
own, excessively pretty, with a fly cap and capuchin. Another was a
little figure of Madame de Montespan as a Magdalen in the desert. Madame
de Rully showed me the billiard-room, where I saw the busts of the great
Condé and of Turenne on the chimney-piece. I was pleased to observe the
respect the Prince paid to the memory of Turenne, whom he seemed
desirous to praise equally with his own great ancestor. He has starts of
recollection, and still retains the unassuming, steady character which
distinguished him at the head of his army. At eight I went to the Duke
de Sérent’s, where I heard much of the robberies committed by the
Bonaparte family; including Cardinal Fesch, who pillaged the Villa
Mattei at Rome to adorn his palace in Paris, and who has not yet paid
the transport of his chairs and sofas from Rome, whither he had sent
them to be gilt.
12th.—While I was at the Prince of Condé’s to-day, Marshal Marmont came
in—a vulgar-looking man, without any military grace. The Prince, when he
found out who it was, spoke civilly to him. The King went to
Fontainebleau to meet the bride, and to give an opportunity for
preparations at the Tuileries. Talleyrand sat beside him, and the Duke
de la Châtre, premier gentilhomme de la chambre, with the captain of the
Gardes du Corps, on the opposite seat. There was much crying “Vive le
Roi!”
13th.—I was at a party at Sir Charles Stuart’s, chiefly English. All the
rooms were thrown open, and some of the guests walked in the garden. The
Duke of Wellington came in a cabriolet.
14th.—Everybody is most anxious to get tickets for the forthcoming
fêtes, and ladies are to have only one each, choosing which they please.
The King has given orders that all whose names are sent in by Sir
Charles Stuart are to be accommodated. I found, too, when I returned
home, one for the church, and one “pour le Jeu du Roi” on Monday.
15th.—I went to see the cabinet of cameos, intaglios, and medals at the
King’s Library. In the first effervescence of the Revolution orders were
issued for dissolving them all; but Barthélémi, the author of
“Anacharsis,” found means to delay the execution of the warrant, and
they were fortunately forgotten. I saw the bracelets of Diane de
Poictiers, Duchess of Valentinois, the Twelve Cæsars worn as
coat-buttons by Henri Quatre, an intaglio portrait of the Dauphin worn
as a ring by Louis XVI., the bracelets of Madame de Pompadour, cameos of
Louis XV. and Henri IV. set in emeralds, the beautiful intaglio of
Michael Angelo worn by Louis XIV., and the fine one on an amethyst, by
Glycon, of Achilles playing on the harp. Henri IV. seems to have had a
decided taste for cameos. His town sword is adorned with them, and his
fighting sword has a falcon on it.
16th.—I went out about ten to see the processions, as the Fête-Dieu is
celebrated to-day. I believe this fête has been solemnised only once—the
year before last—these twenty-five years. The procession of St. Sulpice
was the most numerous, and many ladies walked in it. That of the parish
of St. Thomas d’Aquin stopped at the gate of the Duchess d’Orleans,
entered the court in which an altar had been erected, and gave the
benediction to the Duchess, her ladies, and household. The people seemed
pleased with the revival of these religious ceremonies. A large canopy
for one of the processions was given by the Duchess de Bourbon, who has
written a book on Theology. The National Guards, who escorted the
processions, and who do duty in Paris on almost all occasions, are said
to be very loyal. They are all “bourgeois,” but are well dressed and at
their own expense, and have a soldier-like appearance. They had nosegays
on their bouquets, and nearly everybody who attended the processions,
priests included, had flowers, and the streets were hung with carpeting
and tapestry. I was delighted to see the venerable priests, who had
survived so many horrors, once more peaceably chanting through the
streets. How innocent their errors in comparison with the crimes of
their persecutors!
About three we went with Madame and Mademoiselle de Chastellux and their
friend Madame de Fontanes[68] to the apartments of Madame Montgolfier,
widow of the inventor of balloons, to see the arrival of the King with
the Duchess de Berri. His Majesty arrived a little after four in an open
carriage. The Duchess d’Angoulême and the Duke and Duchess de Berri were
with him. The bride was dressed in white and silver, with feathers, and
had a small white parasol. The Duchess d’Angoulême was in blue, and
looked remarkably well. The bride is very fair,[69] but the people said
she was too thin. Cries of “Vive le Roi!” accompanied them. The military
bore themselves particularly well, and the whole scene was very
agreeable. The windows at which we were placed looked on the Boulevards,
and the cheerfulness of the place, with its decorations of hangings,
flowers, leaves, &c. &c., had a delightful effect.
17th.—In the evening the wedding ceremony was performed at Notre-Dame. I
had a ticket, but did not go, as I was afraid of the crowd. I understand
it was well regulated. At six I went to the Tuileries “au Jeu de Roi.”
Card-tables were set in the Galerie des Cerfs, and in the midst a large
round one for the King and Royal Family. They came in
about seven, the Duke de Berri dressed à la Henri Quatre, Madame leading
the bride. I happened to be near the table, and she introduced me to
her. The Peers who had been witnesses of the marriage wore mantles; the
uniforms were very fine, and the scene splendid. Those who had tickets
for seeing the banquet followed the King when he left the Gallery. As I
passed out I observed the Place du Carrousel full of people, which, with
the cries of “Vive le Roi!” and the illumination, had a very fine
effect. At eleven I went to a ball at the Duke of Wellington’s: his
house[70] handsome, and the gardens prettily illuminated.
18th.—Anniversary of the battle of Waterloo. There was a pause in the
fêtes. The Royal Family went to dine at St. Cloud.
19th.—Colonel Palmer brought me a letter from Princess Charlotte,
expressing a wish to see me in England, with a very handsome message
from her husband. In the evening I was at the “bal paré” at the
Tuileries, in the Salle de l’Opéra, where the banquet had been held. The
whole of the Royal Family were present. The Duchess de Berri danced a
French and an English country dance with the Duke d’Angoulême, and
waltzed with her husband. At ten they retired.
20th.—A review of twenty-four thousand men, and a “bénédiction des
drapeaux” in the Champ de Mars. The old Archbishop of Rheims performed
the ceremony, and Madame and the Duchess de Berri tied the “cravates,”
white handkerchiefs, round the staffs of the colours. I was in the tent
of the Etat-Major-General. It was a long ceremony, but very interesting.
24th.—I went in the evening in court dress to the Tuileries[71] “aux
premières loges.” The King and all the Royal Family there to see the
representation of “Adélaïde du Guesclin,” and “Les Etourdis, ou Le Mort
Supposé.” Talma and Mademoiselle George acted in the first, and
Mademoiselle Mars in the second. I admire Talma and Mademoiselle Mars
exceedingly. The company produced a fine effect. The Maréchaux de France
had seats on the left hand of the Royal Family, as also had the
Ambassadors and their suites; the ladies being on the right hand. There
were also upper boxes in which the company were dressed, but not in
court dresses. The pit full of gentlemen with swords and bags, or
uniforms.
25th.—I dined at the Ambassador’s, and found everybody much annoyed[72]
at the allusions to England in “Adélaïde du Guesclin.” It was certainly
an ill-chosen play, but I have since heard that it was selected by the
actors. In the evening I went to a ball at the Duke of Wellington’s,
where Monsieur, the Duke d’Angoulême, and the Duke and Duchess de Berri
made their appearance and danced—Monsieur excepted. On my return home I
heard that some confusion had been occasioned by a cartridge having been
thrown into the kitchen window. Colonel Fremantle and another officer
went down and extinguished the fire, but it gave rise to some
conversation next day, though not so much as the allusions to England at
the theatre.
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