THE REEL, LINE AND FLIES
As in the case of fly-rods and fly-rod materials, a complete,
comparative study of fishing reels is not here purposed. It is
hoped that the reader will accept as true the following statements
and suggestions regarding the reel and its selection--and this
applies equally to the other articles of equipment mentioned in
this chapter--without the necessity of much argument pro and con or
the presentation of many reasons in every instance. In fact, the
general matter of fly tackle is one which has been very thoroughly
threshed out in other books, and, as regards dry-fly fishing,
differs only in degree, not in essentials. It is the intent of the
present chapter merely to take up the subject of fly-tackle aside
from the rod to an extent which will enable the beginner to start
right, at any rate, without the necessity of reference to other
volumes or sources of information.
The single-action click reel has for many years been recognized by
experienced fly-fishermen as the only reel suited to the purpose.
In general, multiplying reels, whether double or quadruple, are
entirely unsuited to use on the fly-rod. The rapid retrieve of
the multiplier is of no advantage--rather the opposite--to the
fly-fishermen for trout. Line fouling occurs constantly over the
projecting handle of the multiplying reel; moreover, as a general
thing, multiplying reels are too heavy for the purpose and balance
the rod poorly. Reels of the automatic persuasion have not received
the unstinted approbation of anglers.
Granting that the single-action reel is exclusively the one with
which we need here concern ourselves, it does not follow that there
is little choice in the selection of the reel. On the contrary,
single-action reels are made of rather numerous materials and
certainly in varying degrees of desirability. For use on the trout
fly-rod a reel of solid metal, capable of holding thirty or forty
yards of double-tapered line, size E, is apt to be too heavy,
although this may possibly be a personal prejudice of the writer.
Aluminum reels are, of course, light, but reels of this material
are easily damaged and put out of commission--usually at a very
critical time. The last statement applies also to reels of hard
rubber without metal protection.
Possibly it is more or less a personal matter, but the writer
has always favored in single-action click reels of the ordinary
construction the reel of hard rubber with metal bands around the
edges of the side plates. These bands are either of nickeled brass
or German silver, the latter naturally being the more expensive.
The band on the handle side of the reel projects over the edge so
as to form a protection against line fouling, and the reel handle
revolves within this protecting band.
The reels commonly used in England and also easily procurable in
this country are of the "revolving-disc" style--a very efficient
and satisfactory form of reel; perhaps, all things considered, the
best. In the revolving disc reel the handle is attached directly to
the side plate, which itself revolves and is affixed to the spool
or spindle.
The reel selected should be as light as possible, but strong and
capable of holding at least thirty yards of double-tapered line of
size E. The spool should be narrow; that is, the space between the
side plates contracted, so that the line may build up quickly when
reeling in. The click, or "check," should not be too stiff. On the
other hand, if it is weak and unreliable, over-runs and back lashes
will occur constantly.
Regarding the size, it should be noted that the sizes designated
in yards assigned to various reels by the tackle dealers are based
upon the reel's capacity for holding very small caliber line.
If the reel is to hold without crowding thirty yards of size E
double-tapered line the side plates must have a diameter of about
two and three-quarters to three inches, depending upon the make and
style of the reel.
The subject of the fly-casting line is worthy of far more extended
treatment than it can possibly receive here--it is doubtful
if there is any more interesting or vital question to the
fly-fisherman. Generally speaking, with the right line all things
are possible; but an unsuitable line is capable of defeating the
efforts of the most expert fly-caster. In the selection of the line
there are two principal points to be considered: The line must be
of the right material, and its weight or caliber must be suited to
the rod upon which it will be used.
Lines for fly-casting are usually known as "waterproof, enameled
silk lines." This description hardly fits the vacuum-dressed line,
of which I shall speak in a later paragraph, but the term may
be used as generally defining the very best line for the purpose
of the fly-caster with either wet or floating flies. In order to
cast well the line must possess weight; at the same time it must
be flexible without flimsiness, and smooth. These requirements are
fully answered by the enameled line, and by no other.
At the present time it is generally believed by experienced anglers
that the soft-enameled, vacuum-dressed line of English manufacture
is the superior of all lines for dry fly casting and fishing. Lines
of this character are repeatedly filled with pure, boiled linseed
oil under the exhausted receiver of an air pump, being dried out
after each filling in an oven heated to 150 degrees Fahrenheit, and
subsequently dressed down by hand. The ordinary "enameled" line is
dressed only superficially. Manifestly the vacuum-dressed line is
the more serviceable; and the combination of weight, flexibility,
smoothness, and perfect action in casting found in this line is
difficult to surpass. The vacuum-dressed line is necessarily
somewhat expensive, and the angler who does not care to invest too
heavily in what may possibly be merely an experimental outfit will
find the ordinary enameled or varnished line, in the best quality,
quite satisfactory and fairly serviceable.
The length and caliber of the line should be determined by the
character of the fishing--always bearing in mind the fact that
the line must of necessity be suited to the rod, a matter wherein
the beginner is prone to go wrong and concerning which he is apt
to receive some very bad advice from the man who angles chiefly
in streams of printer's ink. From the time when the memory of
man runneth not to the contrary the "gossamer line" of the trout
fly-fisherman has been a favorite topic of the producer of the
"speckled-beauty" style of literature--the practical fly-fisherman
knows that there is nothing more absolutely futile than the attempt
to cast a line which in effect is without weight.
Very little thought will convince the reader that only a line which
indeed has weight will carry well through the air when cast, and
that a very small caliber line simply will not do. I shall not
trouble to enlarge upon the matter. Concisely, for the average
fly-rod of nine to ten feet the line should be of size F or E,
the latter for the nine and a half or ten-foot rod. For the rod
somewhat above the average in weight, length or casting power
size D may perhaps be best suited. Unless, however, the line is
thoroughly adapted in weight to the rod upon which it is used,
satisfactory casting will be quite impossible.
In the matter of suiting the line to the rod, remember that a line
which is too light will fail to bring out the action of the rod and
cannot successfully be employed. On the other hand, if the line is
too heavy, the overburdened rod cannot lift it quickly and neatly
from the water; if the angler wishes to make a somewhat longer cast
than usual he may smash his rod in the endeavor to perform the
impossible. The casting power of a rod is not determined purely by
its weight or length; wherefore, if the opportunity offers, it is
well to fit the line to the rod by practical experiment.
That a tapered line is most efficient and satisfactory for dry-fly
casting is generally conceded. By the employment of a line of this
character, the line being gradually fined down toward the ends, the
caster has all the advantage of a heavy line in casting, while at
the same time the line may be cast delicately and lightly. Also a
tapered line, exactly suited to the rod upon which it is used, may
be cast farther and more accurately than a level line. The majority
of American fly-casters undoubtedly fish downstream and use the
level line; when dry fly-fishing, however, it is imperative that
the angler fish or cast upstream and by all odds the better plan to
employ the tapered line.
For ordinary work select a double-tapered line, both ends
graduated, of thirty yards' length. The length of the taper varies
from fifteen (occasionally less) to eighteen feet. As to the proper
length of taper, that again, other things being equal, depends
somewhat upon the nature of the fishing for which the line will be
used. If rather short casts are to be a rule, a short taper will
work best for the reason that more of the "swell" of the line will
be in use and not merely wound upon the reel. A short taper also
works best against the wind for the same reason.
It should be obvious, although the fact has not been adequately
emphasized by angling writers, that if the caster can as a rule
(owing to the restricted nature of the stream, which may be small
and with banks thickly wooded) use only the light tapered end
of his line on a rod really adapted to the size of the swell of
the line, he is working at a great disadvantage. For average
small-stream fly casting it is best to select a line having a
"quick" taper, fifteen feet or less.
The leaders furnished by the tackle dealers especially for dry-fly
fishing are usually of very good quality--the best is none too
good--with dropper loops, of course, and from six to nine feet in
length. The angler who elects to tie his own leaders, a very simple
matter and by far the better plan, should purchase the very best
silk-worm gut for the purpose--round, hard and clear. It will be
necessary to have gut of different weights or caliber from heavy to
very fine, in order that the leader may be tapered from about the
size of the end of the reel line to very fine undrawn gut nearest
the fly. Drawn gut was at one time extensively used by dry-fly
fishermen, but it is now generally recognized that fine undrawn gut
is quite as efficient and the additional strength gained by its use
is a distinct advantage.
The tapered leader certainly aids materially in fine work over
clear, still water and shy fish. I believe it was Henry P. Wells,
the author of "Fly-Rods and Fly Tackle," a work familiar to both
American and English fly fishermen, who stated that in his opinion
the most important factor for successful fly fishing was to make
invisible any connection between the fly and the line, and the use
of fine terminal tackle tends to bring this about. Moreover, fine
caliber gut near the fly assists in floating it. Better, straighter
casting can be done when a tapered leader is used.
The proper length of leader varies with the immediate angling
conditions. Under no circumstances, for practical fishing, should
the leader exceed the rod in length--this entirely in the opinion
of the writer, although concurred in by many other anglers. Under
rough weather conditions a short leader works best. For long, fine
casting a nine-foot leader should be used. For average dry-fly
fishing on the general run of American trout streams, I believe a
seven-foot leader to be the most practical and efficient.
As regards the color of leaders, the fact that any advantage is
gained by the use of variously stained gut (with a view to making
the leader invisible) has never been conclusively proved--natural
or mist-color leaders answer every purpose.
For attaching eyed-hooks to the leader or snell there are several
different knots; one of the best of these, and the simplest, is
shown in Fig. 1. The gut must be rendered perfectly pliable by
soaking in water before tying on the fly. Pass the end of the gut
through the eye of the hook, bend it back and make a slip-knot
or half-hitch around the gut; draw the slip-knot nearly tight and
slide it up to and over the eye of the hook, and pull tight. This
forms a jam-knot easily upset but impossible to disengage by a
straight pull. After making the knot, cut off the superfluous end
of the gut. For cutting off gut ends after changing flies at the
stream-side nothing is handier to carry or use than an ordinary
fingernail clip.
[Illustration: Figure 1.]
In Fig. 2 is shown the method of knotting together two strands
of gut in tying a leader or making repairs in one. The two
half-hitches should be pulled perfectly tight and then drawn
together.
[Illustration: Figure 2.]
For attaching the leader to the line use the jam-knot shown in Fig.
3.
[Illustration: Figure 3.]
If you wish to attach a dropper fly to a dry-fly leader without
loops use the method shown In Fig. 4, attaching at a point where
two strands are knotted together.
[Illustration: Figure 4.]
So many intricate details are connected with the subject of
artificial flies, and with dry or floating flies particularly, that
in order to reduce the discussion of the matter herein to a not
inordinate length many points must of necessity be merely touched
upon.
In later chapters, the efficiency of various patterns, as well as
how and when to use them, will be discussed; at this point we are
concerned chiefly with the purely material details of the "floater."
The construction of the dry fly differs considerably from that of
the wet, but as this is a matter pertaining rather to the art of
the fly dresser the subject need not be considered as imperatively
within the province of the present discussion. It has previously
been noted that at present the larger part of the dry flies
obtainable in this country are imported from England. The tendency
of the tackle dealers is to furnish comparatively few of the
familiar American patterns tied dry.
The dry fly is, of course, dressed with the purpose of causing
it to float as well as may be, and this is effected--although
the method of construction varies to some extent with various
patterns--by dressing the fly with double or "split" wings tied
at right angles to the body (called "erect" wings) and with the
hackling arranged to stand out well from the shank of the hook. The
body of the fly is dressed very lightly and in some instances is of
cork, straw or quill.
In the case of some of the latest patterns horsehair is used for
the body material. As a rule dry flies are dressed upon small
hooks, number twelve and smaller, and the hooks are of light
wire. A list of floating flies which have been found effective on
American trout streams is given in a later paragraph.
Almost without exception floating flies are dressed on eyed
hooks; that is, without gut snells whipped to the shank of the
hook, following the time-honored American custom, but with an
eye or ring at the end of the shank by means of which the fly is
attached directly to the leader. If space permitted the practical
advantages of the eyed hook could very well be emphasized in
detail; at present I can only urge every fly fisherman to adopt
the use of the eyed fly for either dry or wet fly-fishing. If for
no other reason than that of economy, the use of the eyed hook
justifies itself: the feelings of the angler, who when looking over
and testing his tackle for the approaching trout season pulls the
snells without difficulty out of an even two dozen of the old-style
trout flies which have never even been once used, are best left to
the imagination.
Eyed hooks are made in two styles, with turned-up and turned-down
eye; that is, in the case of the turned-down eye the eye is on the
under side of the hook shank or bent toward the barb of the hook,
the opposite being true of the other form. Much controversy has
taken place regarding the respective merits of the two styles of
eyed hooks, various authorities enthusiastically and convincingly
championing either one or the other. It would seem that each form
has its virtues and is quite satisfactory. Undoubtedly the reader,
impartially experimenting with both styles, will soon discover
which is best--for him. The greater part of the floating flies
which come to this country are dressed on turned-up eyed hooks.
As to the form of the hook, whether Sproat, Pennell (turned-down),
O'Shaughnessy, Sneck, and so on, it is a matter in which one cannot
exercise personal choice to any great extent--one must needs be
contented with the flies as he finds them. Hooks with the Sneck
bend are favored for the smaller patterns; others may be dressed on
any of the above-named hooks. Unless you are willing, many times,
to undergo great delay in stocking your fly box, you must sacrifice
a personal prejudice toward any particular form of hook for the
sake of obtaining the pattern you wish in the desired size.
I give below a list of a few floating flies which I know to be
successful under average angling conditions, and would suggest
that in making your selection of dry flies you obtain some, at
least, of the patterns dressed upon number ten hooks. The use of
the very small English patterns, tied, as a rule, on number twelve
hooks at the largest, is not at all times and in all places most
advantageous on American trout streams. The flies named are, as far
as may be, typical; that is, selected with a view to approximately
imitating the general insect life (consisting largely of water-bred
insects) of any trout stream, so that the angler may as a general
thing find in his list a fairly close imitation of most of the
natural flies, any one of which may be temporarily abundant on
the water, and upon which there is reason to believe the fish are
feeding.
The list is as follows: Coachman, Cahill, gold-ribbed hare's ear,
Wickham's fancy, brown sedge, silver sedge, iron blue dun, whirling
blue dun, and olive dun. These should be dressed upon hooks,
numbers twelve and ten. It is seldom necessary to use smaller than
a number twelve dry-fly, although, of course, occasionally only
the very smallest flies are effective. To the flies named should
be added the green May female, brown May female, and spent gnat
female, of the new series of floating flies developed by Mr. F. M.
Halford.
Of the above the coachman, Wickham's fancy, gold-ribbed hare's ear
and Cahill are frankly "fancy" flies, not intended to represent
any particular natural fly. The Wickham's fancy, coachman and
gold-ribbed hare's ear are wonderfully successful patterns, as a
rule, throughout the entire season, and under a great variety of
angling conditions. The Cahill is a fly of very delicate coloration
and dressing and is particularly useful over very low and clear
water. The duns, olive, whirling blue and iron blue are dressed in
imitation of various ephemera in the sub-imago or dun stage, and
when the fish are feeding upon the natural fly these are apt to
prove exceedingly successful.
The green and brown May fly patterns are representative of the
corresponding Ephemeridæ, and their usefulness upon streams when
and where the May fly is abundant is sufficiently obvious. The
Caddis flies in the nomenclature of the dry fly are known as
"sedges"; the silver sedge and brown sedge belong to this class.
The spent gnat pattern represents the female May fly which,
having voided her eggs upon the water, thereafter falls upon the
surface of the stream practically lifeless and with wings flat
and outstretched. The spent gnat, accordingly, is dressed with
horizontal, not erect, wings.
For carrying eyed-flies various fly-boxes are furnished by the
tackle dealers. The method of holding the flies is usually by
means of a metal clip, although some boxes have several small
compartments with transparent (celluloid) covers, and others have
cork strips into which the fly may be fastened. The last sort is
the least satisfactory. As a rule, in the ordinary form of eyed
fly box the metal clips are set very closely together, and it is
advisable to procure a box capable of holding at least double the
number of flies you intend to carry, so that they may be inserted
without crushing and be easily distinguished and removed.
Paraffin oil, or some one of the other similar waterproofing
liquids furnished by the tackle dealers, is a necessity to the
dry-fly caster. A floating fly, if perfectly dry, will float fairly
well for a number of casts without the use of paraffin; but it soon
becomes drowned and sodden and very difficult to dry out by merely
false casting. Whatever preparation may be used (and I have found
very little practical difference in them) it should be carried in a
small bottle having a stopper with brush attached. Apply the oil to
the fly lightly, and remove the superfluous liquid by pressing the
fly between folds in your handkerchief. It is usually practicable
to prepare a number of flies in this way before going to the
stream, thus obviating the the necessity of carrying the "oiler."
It would seem unnecessary to consider the matter of the creel,
waders and other general fly-fishing equipment, as these are
familiar to every fly-fisherman of any experience. However, for
the benefit of the virtual beginner it may be said that a rather
larger basket than that usually advised to the trout-fisherman say
a creel of twenty-pound size--is preferable for many reasons. The
new style sling, which suspends the basket from the left shoulder,
should be used.
Waders, of course, are necessary. Whether wading pants, wading
stockings, or ordinary sporting rubber boots are worn is more or
less a personal matter generally dependent upon the conditions
under which the fishing will be done. The wading stockings, worn
with woolen socks and hobnailed wading shoes, are as a rule the
most satisfactory equipment. A leader-box in which extra leaders
may be carried between pads of dampened felt and a landing net are
other requisites.