THE FLY ROD
It would seem that the tentative dry fly caster cannot too
carefully consider the details of the rod which he will use in the
pursuit of the sport. The majority of anglers cannot well afford
a battery of fly-rods; moreover, there is no market for used
fishing rods, as in the case of firearms, so that if the rod proves
unsatisfactory it cannot be got rid of unless one practically
gives it away. It is claimed that, in time, an angler will "grow
to" any sort of rod, regardless of its unfitness to him personally
or of inherent faultiness in some respect; possibly this is true.
Patience is, indeed, a virtue possessed by many good fishermen,
but, in this instance, it is safe to say that not one fly-caster in
twenty can bring himself to the continued use of a rod from which
he derives no pleasure and which actually handicaps him on the
stream.
The demands of dry fly casting on the rod are exacting in the
extreme. On a river where there is much dry fly water probably the
rod does double the amount of work required of the wet fly rod;
the need of continually drying the fly by false casting keeps the
rod in almost constant action. If the rod is unsuitable in length,
balance, or in some other detail of construction, this continual
whipping in casting and drying the fly is anything but enjoyable.
If the rod is really poorly constructed, of poor material, and
thrown together rather than painstakingly fitted, a few hours
of dry fly work will surely bring about its relegation to the
scrap-heap--where, indeed, it belonged in the first place.
The selection of the rod for dry fly work, then, should be made
with deliberation and based upon the best information obtainable.
In this connection it may be noted that it is the fashion with a
certain class of sportsmen to consider the purchase of a fly-rod
which, relatively, may be termed an expensive one, simply a foolish
waste of money and entirely a matter of "pretense and affectation."
Usually this opinion is wholly the result of misinformation and
lack of experience. No angler who ever had the pleasure of a
day's fishing with a first-class fly-rod--provided, initially,
he possessed sufficient skill and experience to thoroughly
appreciate the revelation, for the action of such a rod is,
indeed, a revelation to one accustomed to the use of an inferior
article--ever willingly returned to the use of the makeshift rod
with which perhaps he had theretofore been contented.
The purchaser of a shotgun is usually aware of the fact that
beyond a certain limit, varying with guns by different makers, he
is paying for finish pure and simple--not for practical shooting
efficiency in the weapon. But in the case of the fly-rod this is
not true--with due deference to the opinion of the man who holds
otherwise, simply, I am sure, because he has yet to cast a fly with
a genuine fly-rod. All this, of course, within reason; it should be
manifest that a merely "highly ornate" rod spells increased cost
without return in practical casting and fishing value. However, the
gingerbread fly-rod is so rare that it may safely be disregarded
as a factor in the present discussion--also, parenthetically, as a
factor in the day's score on the trout stream.
Reducing the matter to the practical dollars-and-cents basis, it
may be said in all truthfulness that up to thirty dollars, taking
an average of fly-rods by different makers, every additional dollar
spent on the rod inevitably means a commensurate increase in the
rod's efficiency, serviceability, and all-round desirability. But
while no experienced fly-caster would, I believe, take exception to
the above, it still remains to be said that if economy is, indeed,
an object--and that it is may usually be taken for granted--a
very good rod, quite satisfactory in action, hang, and general
construction, may be obtained for half the above amount plus some
little discretion in its purchase. Wherefore, for the benefit of
the sportsman who is willing to grant that only the best of tools
are suited to the purpose of the fly-caster, and particularly to
the work of the dry fly man, but who, nevertheless, wishes to
obtain his outfit with the least expenditure commensurate with real
efficiency in the equipment, it would seem desirable to describe
briefly the characteristics of a first-class fly-rod.
To the question, Exactly what constitutes a really efficient and
satisfactory rod for dry fly-fishing? ninety-nine out of one
hundred expert and experienced fly-fishermen--men who have been
through the mill, and so far as the rod is concerned, passed
the experimental stage of the game--would, I believe, answer at
once, with the utmost confidence, practically as follows: A rod
constructed by hand, by an experienced rod-maker, of thoroughly
seasoned and carefully-selected split-bamboo, in six strips; in
length suited to the character of the water and the fishing upon
and for which it will be used, having good balance (not heavy in
or out of hand), strength, adequate casting power together with a
pleasant and resilient action, a speedy not a slow rod, not too
pliant nor too stiff, and, finally, beyond reproach in the matter
of guides, windings, handgrasp material, ferrules, and so on.
The sportsman familiar with the diversity of fishing-rod materials
will at once note the implied elimination of rods constructed of
the various solid woods, such as bethabara, greenheart, lancewood,
dagama, and others, as well as of split-cane rods of other than
six-strip construction, such as the eight-strip, steel-centered,
double-built, and so on. It is not my purpose to consider at
length historically, theoretically, or practically, the matter
of fishing-rod materials as compared one with the other--matters
quite fully discussed in my volume on "Fishing Kits and Equipment."
Rather it seems best to state once and for all that past experience
has proved and present use serves only to emphasize the fact that
there is no better fly-rod, all things considered, for the trout
fly-fisherman than the one of six strips of cane, rent from the
whole cane, carefully fashioned by hand and assembled with skill.
Of the solid wood fly-rods it is generally believed that bethabara
(washaba, "noibwood") is the best. My own experience with this
material has been such that I cannot discuss it with any great
enthusiasm. Greenheart is largely used in England for all sorts of
fishing-rods, but over there, also, the split-cane rod is conceded
first place for the trout fly-rod, and is constantly increasing in
use.
Parenthetically, the present trend of English anglers is toward
the use of shorter and lighter rods of the American style, the
two-handed fourteen-foot affair for trout fly-fishing being little
in evidence; in fact, one of our most reputable firms of rod-makers
annually sends a considerable number of fly-rods to England. But
the split-cane fly-rods of the English makers and anglers are still
much stiffer and heavier, length for length, than those favored in
this country. For instance, a split-cane fly-rod constructed by a
very famous firm of rod-makers according to the directions of Mr.
F. M. Halford, whose angling books and articles, largely on dry
fly-fishing, are absolutely authoritative as well as most readable,
sensible, and genuinely informative for the American as well as
the English fly-fisherman, is nine and a half feet in length with a
weight of nine and a half ounces. An American split-bamboo fly-rod
of this length would not, at the utmost, weigh over six ounces.
Moreover, this proportion of weight to length--except in rods
called "featherweights"--is maintained throughout the general run
of English split-cane fly-rods in common use.
The American fly-caster for trout need not concern himself other
than theoretically, as a matter of general angling information,
with octagonal, double-built, or steel-centered split-cane rods.
Eight-strip rods are commonly produced in this country--at a
considerably higher figure than the rod of six strips--but it is
generally and wholly agreed among those who know that there is
nothing to recommend the octagonal over the hexagonal rod. The
double-built rod--a rod in which each triangular strip of cane, as
finally ready for completing the rod, is composed of two strips
cemented together, superimposed, thus having two thicknesses of the
hard outer enamel--is undoubtedly desirable where great strength is
imperative, but hardly requisite for the trout fly-rod. Practically
the same may be said of the steel-centered rod. Double-built rods
are not made in this country. Only one firm of rod-makers produces
a steel-centered rod.
To the experienced fly-fisherman the impossibility of such a thing
as an "all-round" fly-rod is constantly more apparent. No one rod
can, in the very nature of things, prove thoroughly adapted to
the variety of trout streams whipped by the angler even within a
restricted territory. Angling conditions vary considerably with
each stream; upon one water a rod of four ounces, or even less,
eight feet in length is exactly the thing; for another stream the
wise angler would rightly select a ten-foot rod of six ounces or
thereabouts.
In view of this it is scarcely possible for one to recommend any
particular length or weight of rod as being the most satisfactory
and efficient. For small trout in small streams only the lightest
tackle should be used for fly-fishing, either wet or dry. But,
particularly with reference to casting the dry fly, it may be said
that a fly-rod of from nine and a half to ten feet is the most
desirable for streams of average size. While it is seldom necessary
for the dry fly caster to cast any great distance, it is only in
the longer rods that really good casting power can be obtained; and
casting power, in view of the preferable use of a somewhat heavy
tapered line and the constantly repeated process of drying the
fly, Is very necessary.
The ten-foot fly-rod, other things being equal, is probably
the most efficient tool for the dry fly fisherman. However, a
nine-and-a-half-foot rod is a sweeter rod to handle, is suited to a
greater diversity of trout waters, and, granting good material and
action, is sufficiently powerful for average work--the foregoing,
by the way, with the understanding that increased length spells
increased capacity for handling the line, which certainly does
not follow unless the rods are built on the same proportional
dimensions and in proportionate weights. The five-ounce rod of
the tournament fly-caster is a very different matter from the
five-ounce rod of the average practical stream fisherman.
The rod for dry fly casting must not be too light in the butt;
otherwise the rod will lack line-driving power; the tip, also, must
not be too light and pliant, or it will result in the practical
impossibility of lifting the heavy tapered line quickly and neatly
from the water when a fair length of line is out. However, while
a strong, speedy, and resilient rod is manifestly indicated, its
action must not be too harsh--if possible the golden mean should
be the final choice. The fly-caster should never lose sight of
the fact that fly-casting, pure and simple, is by no means all of
fly-fishing--that in the selection of the fly-rod its suitability
to striking, playing, and landing a trout must receive careful
consideration.
Fly-rods which answer all too strongly to the quick impulse of the
angler's wrist when striking a rising fish are by no means rare.
Bearing in mind the small flies and delicate leaders necessarily
used in dry fly fishing, the result of striking too strenuously can
easily be imagined, but the fault cannot be corrected if the use
of a rod too stiff and harsh in action is persisted in. Moreover,
during the process of playing a trout, it is essential that the rod
give and take with the movements of the fish, exerting an even but
not too decided strain. A stiff rod is a very risky one with which
to play a fish; there is great danger of the unconscious employment
of too much force; a trout even poorly hooked may usually be safely
landed if delicately handled, but a fish quite firmly fastened can
easily be lost if forced by the angler. A rod possessing just the
correct degree of elasticity and resiliency may often offset errors
of judgment on the part of the angler while playing a fish, but
a rod of incorrect action can never be other than a handicap no
matter how skilfully It may be handled.
In the selection of the dry fly-rod it is well, however, while
avoiding the really stiff rod, to favor one with an adequate degree
of "backbone"--in other words, steer very clear of the whippy rod.
For dry fly casting no line is the equal of the double-tapered silk
line, enameled or vacuum-dressed, and a rather heavier article than
the ordinary level line chosen for wet fly fishing should be used.
The rod must have sufficient casting power to handle a line of this
sort. The line generally employed is size E. The matter of the
mutual adaptability of line and rod will be treated later; it can,
however, be noted here that only a rod tending to stiffness rather
than whippiness is capable of rightly handling the line designated.
I have elsewhere ("Fishing Kits and Equipment," pages 48-50)
described the manner of testing a fly-rod with a view to
ascertaining its possession or lack of the various qualities and
characteristics outlined above. Therefore it seems best not to
rehearse the matter here, but, in this connection and as a final
word on the question of the desirable fly-rod qualities from the
viewpoint of general utility and practical serviceability in dry
fly casting, to simply suggest that you accept no rod, by no matter
what maker, without first putting it to every possible test. I have
endeavored to make it plain that a first-class rod is the result of
first-class labor and material, and that it must possess a degree
of excellence not found in the common run of fishing rods. The
obvious corollary is that any sort of rod passed over the counter
to you should not be duly and dutifully accepted on anyone's mere
say-so.
Regarding the practical details of the rod, apart from the general
matters already discussed, and recalling the recommendation of
six-strip construction, it would seem that much stream usage and
experimentation in the tackle shop and on the casting platform
have resulted in the standardization of several forms of fly-rod
fittings as being best adapted to the purpose in hand and producing
the utmost efficiency in the rod. In the matter of ferrules, only
those of German silver should be considered. Also they should be
capped, welted, split or serrated, and waterproofed. Furthermore,
it is perhaps unnecessary to suggest the elimination of the "patent
lock-fast joint"--the omission being based upon the fact that
American rod-makers, knowing the efficiency and safety of the
plain suction ferrules with which their rods are fitted, employ no
other sort.
German silver is also the best material for the reel-seat. It
should perhaps be noted that "German silver" is a substance varying
considerably in strength, appearance, and merit as applied to use
on the fly-rod; the best ferrules and reel-seats of this material
are hand wrought and drawn to almost steel-like hardness. The
writer would not advise a "skeleton" reel-seat for use on any
fly-rod for fishing either wet or dry.
It is generally conceded by experienced fly-casters and rod-makers
that the very best handgrasp for the fly-rod is of solid cork,
formed by closely fitting a number of thick cork rings over a
wooden core. Cheap rods have handgrasps of thin cork sheathing
glued over a form of wood--about the most unsatisfactory of all
handgrasps.
Steel guides, of the snake pattern, are preferable to those of
German silver; in time the friction of the line wears deep grooves
in the latter. While not imperative it is, nevertheless, a good
plan to have the rod fitted with agate first and tip guides,
thereby eliminating much line-wear and friction, which occurs
principally at these points, increasing quite appreciably the
casting power of the rod.
The rod should be plainly wound at intervals varying from not
more than an inch at the butt to a quarter-inch at the tip.
Experimentation in the matter of rod-windings has never resulted
in anything definitely better than the ordinary plain silk winding
carefully done and well-protected with varnish.