Passage towards New Holland.
Islands discovered in our Route.
Our great Distresses.
See the Reefs of New Holland and find a Passage through them.
1789. May.
It was about eight o'clock at night when we bore away under a reefed lug
fore-sail and, having divided the people into watches and got the boat in
a little order, we returned God thanks for our miraculous preservation
and, fully confident of his gracious support, I found my mind more at
ease than it had been for some time past.
Sunday 3.
At daybreak the gale increased; the sun rose very fiery and red, a sure
indication of a severe gale of wind. At eight it blew a violent storm and
the sea ran very high, so that between the seas the sail was becalmed,
and when on the top of the sea it was too much to have set: but we could
not venture to take in the sail for we were in very imminent danger and
distress, the sea curling over the stern of the boat, which obliged us to
bale with all our might. A situation more distressing has perhaps seldom
been experienced.
Our bread was in bags and in danger of being spoiled by the wet: to be
starved to death was inevitable if this could not be prevented: I
therefore began to examine what clothes there were in the boat and what
other things could be spared and, having determined that only two suits
should be kept for each person, the rest was thrown overboard with some
rope and spare sails, which lightened the boat considerably, and we had
more room to bale the water out. Fortunately the carpenter had a good
chest in the boat, in which we secured the bread the first favourable
moment. His tool chest also was cleared and the tools stowed in the
bottom of the boat so that this became a second convenience.
I served a teaspoonful of rum to each person (for we were very wet and
cold) with a quarter of a breadfruit, which was scarce eatable, for
dinner: our engagement was now strictly to be carried into execution, and
I was fully determined to make our provisions last eight weeks, let the
daily proportion be ever so small.
At noon I considered our course and distance from Tofoa to be
west-north-west three-quarters west 86 miles, latitude 19 degrees 27
minutes south. I directed the course to the west-north-west that we might
get a sight of the islands called Feejee if they laid in the direction
the natives had pointed out to me.
The weather continued very severe, the wind veering from north-east to
east-south-east. The sea ran higher than in the forenoon, and the fatigue
of baling to keep the boat from filling was exceedingly great. We could
do nothing more than keep before the sea, in the course of which the boat
performed so well that I no longer dreaded any danger in that respect.
But, among the hardships we were to undergo, that of being constantly wet
was not the least.
Monday 4.
The night was very cold and at daylight our limbs were so benumbed that
we could scarce find the use of them. At this time I served a teaspoonful
of rum to each person, from which we all found great benefit.
As I have mentioned before I determined to keep to the west-north-west
till I got more to the northward, for I not only expected to have better
weather but to see the Feejee Islands, as I have often understood from
the natives of Annamooka that they lie in that direction. Captain Cook
likewise considered them to be north-west by west from Tongataboo. Just
before noon we discovered a small flat island of a moderate height
bearing west-south-west 4 or 5 leagues. I observed our latitude to be 18
degrees 58 minutes south; our longitude was by account 3 degrees 4
minutes west from the island of Tofoa, having made a north 72 degrees
west course, distance 95 miles, since yesterday noon. I divided five
small coconuts for our dinner and everyone was satisfied.
A little after noon other islands appeared, and at a quarter past three
o'clock we could count eight, bearing from south round by the west to
north-west by north, those to the south which were the nearest being four
leagues distant from us.
I kept my course to the north-west by west between the islands, the gale
having considerably abated. At six o'clock we discovered three other
small islands to the north-west, the westernmost of them bore north-west
half west 7 leagues. I steered to the southward of these islands a
west-north-west course for the night under a reefed sail.
Served a few broken pieces of breadfruit for supper and performed
prayers.
The night turned out fair and, having had tolerable rest, everyone seemed
considerably better in the morning, and contentedly breakfasted on a few
pieces of yams that were found in the boat. After breakfast we examined
our bread, a great deal of which was damaged and rotten; this
nevertheless we were glad to keep for use.
I had hitherto been scarcely able to keep any account of our run, but we
now equipped ourselves a little better by getting a log-line marked and,
having practised at counting seconds, several could do it with some
degree of exactness.
The islands we had passed lie between the latitude of 19 degrees 5
minutes south and 18 degrees 19 minutes south, and according to my
reckoning from 3 degrees 17 minutes to 3 degrees 46 minutes west
longitude from the island Tofoa: the largest may be about six leagues in
circuit; but it is impossible for me to be very correct. To show where
they are to be found again is the most my situation enabled me to do. The
sketch I have made will give a comparative view of their extent. I
believe all the larger islands are inhabited as they appeared very
fertile.
At noon I observed in latitude 18 degrees 10 seconds south and considered
my course and distance from yesterday noon north-west by west half west
94 miles; longitude by account from Tofoa 4 degrees 29 minutes west.
For dinner I served some of the damaged bread and a quarter of a pint of
water.
About six o'clock in the afternoon we discovered two islands, one bearing
west by south 6 leagues and the other north-west by north 8 leagues; I
kept to windward of the northernmost and, passing it by 10 o'clock, I
resumed our course to the north-west and west-north-west for the night.
Wednesday 6.
The weather was fair and the wind moderate all day from the
east-north-east. At daylight a number of other islands were in sight from
south-south-east to the west and round to north-east by east; between
those in the north-west I determined to pass. At noon a small sandy
island or key two miles distant from me bore from east to south
three-quarters west. I had passed ten islands, the largest of which I
judged to be 6 or 8 leagues in circuit. Much larger lands appeared in the
south-west and north-north-west, between which I directed my course.
Latitude observed 17 degrees 17 minutes south; course since yesterday
noon north 50 degrees west; distance 84 miles; longitude made by account
5 degrees 37 minutes west.
Our allowance for the day was a quarter of a pint of coconut milk and the
meat, which did not exceed two ounces to each person: it was received
very contentedly but we suffered great drought. I durst not venture to
land as we had no arms and were less capable of defending ourselves than
we were at Tofoa.
To keep an account of the boat's run was rendered difficult from being
constantly wet with the sea breaking over us but, as we advanced towards
the land, the sea became smoother and I was enabled to form a sketch of
the islands which will serve to give a general knowledge of their extent
and position. Those we were near appeared fruitful and hilly, some very
mountainous and all of a good height.
To our great joy we hooked a fish, but we were miserably disappointed by
its being lost in trying to get it into the boat.
We continued steering to the north-west between the islands which by the
evening appeared of considerable extent, woody and mountainous. At sunset
the southernmost bore from south to south-west by west and the
northernmost from north by west half west to north-east half east. At six
o'clock we were nearly midway between them and about 6 leagues distant
from each shore when we fell in with a coral bank, on which we had only
four feet water, without the least break on it or ruffle of the sea to
give us warning. I could see that it extended about a mile on each side
of us, but as it is probable that it may extend much further I have laid
it down so in my sketch.
I directed the course west by north for the night, and served to each
person an ounce of the damaged bread and a quarter of a pint of water for
supper.
As our lodgings were very miserable and confined for want of room I
endeavoured to remedy the latter defect by putting ourselves at watch and
watch; so that one half always sat up while the other lay down on the
boat's bottom or upon a chest, with nothing to cover us but the heavens.
Our limbs were dreadfully cramped for we could not stretch them out, and
the nights were so cold, and we so constantly wet, that after a few hours
sleep we could scarce move.
Thursday 7.
At dawn of day we again discovered land from west-south-west to
west-north-west, and another island north-north-west, the latter a high
round lump of but little extent: the southern land that we had passed in
the night was still in sight. Being very wet and cold I served a spoonful
of rum and a morsel of bread for breakfast.
The land in the west was distinguished by some extraordinary high rocks
which, as we approached them, assumed a variety of forms. The country
appeared to be agreeably interspersed with high and low land, and in some
places covered with wood. Off the north-east part lay some small rocky
islands, between which and an island 4 leagues to the north-east I
directed my course; but a lee current very unexpectedly set us very near
to the rocky isles, and we could only get clear of it by rowing, passing
close to the reef that surrounded them. At this time we observed two
large sailing canoes coming swiftly after us along shore and, being
apprehensive of their intentions, we rowed with some anxiety, fully
sensible of our weak and defenceless state. At noon it was calm and the
weather cloudy; my latitude is therefore doubtful to 3 or 4 miles. Our
course since yesterday noon north-west by west, distance 79 miles;
latitude by account 16 degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude by account
from Tofoa 6 degrees 46 minutes west. Being constantly wet it was with
the utmost difficulty I could open a book to write, and I am sensible
that what I have done can only serve to point out where these lands are
to be found again, and give an idea of their extent.
All the afternoon we had light winds at north-north-east: the weather was
very rainy, attended with thunder and lightning. Only one of the canoes
gained upon us, which by three o'clock in the afternoon was not more than
two miles off, when she gave over chase.
If I may judge from the sail of these vessels they are of a similar
construction with those at the Friendly Islands which, with the nearness
of their situation, gives reason to believe that they are the same kind
of people. Whether these canoes had any hostile intention against us must
remain a doubt: perhaps we might have benefited by an intercourse with
them, but in our defenceless situation to have made the experiment would
have been risking too much.
I imagine these to be the islands called Feejee as their extent,
direction, and distance from the Friendly Islands answers to the
description given of them by those Islanders. Heavy rain came on at four
o'clock, when every person did their utmost to catch some water, and we
increased our stock to 34 gallons, besides quenching our thirst for the
first time since we had been at sea; but an attendant consequence made us
pass the night very miserably for, being extremely wet and having no dry
things to shift or cover us, we experienced cold and shiverings scarce to
be conceived. Most fortunately for us the forenoon turned out fair and we
stripped and dried our clothes. The allowance I issued today was an ounce
and a half of pork, a teaspoonful of rum, half a pint of coconut milk,
and an ounce of bread. The rum though so small in quantity was of the
greatest service. A fishing-line was generally towing from the stern of
the boat but though we saw great numbers of fish we could never catch
one.
At noon I observed in latitude 16 degrees 4 minutes south and found we
had made a course from yesterday noon north 62 degrees west distance 62
miles; longitude by account from Tofoa 7 degrees 42 minutes west.
The land passed yesterday and the day before is a group of islands, 14 or
16 in number, lying between the latitude of 16 degrees 26 minutes south
and 17 degrees 57 minutes south, and in longitude by my account 4 degrees
47 minutes to 7 degrees 17 minutes west from Tofoa. Three of these
islands are very large, having from 30 to 40 leagues of sea-coast.
In the afternoon we cleaned out the boat and it employed us till sunset
to get everything dry and in order. Hitherto I had issued the allowance
by guess, but I now made a pair of scales with two coconut shells and,
having accidentally some pistol-balls in the boat, 25 of which weighed
one pound or 16 ounces, I adopted one,* as the proportion of weight that
each person should receive of bread at the times I served it. I also
amused all hands with describing the situation of New Guinea and New
Holland, and gave them every information in my power that in case any
accident happened to me those who survived might have some idea of what
they were about, and be able to find their way to Timor, which at present
they knew nothing of more than the name and some not even that. At night
I served a quarter of a pint of water and half an ounce of bread for
supper.
(*Footnote. It weighed 272 grains.)
Saturday 9.
In the morning a quarter of a pint of coconut milk and some of the
decayed bread was served for breakfast, and for dinner I divided the meat
of four coconuts with the remainder of the rotten bread, which was only
eatable by such distressed people.
At noon I observed the latitude to be 15 degrees 47 minutes south; course
since yesterday north 75 degrees west distance 64 miles; longitude made
by account 8 degrees 45 minutes west.
In the afternoon I fitted a pair of shrouds for each mast, and contrived
a canvas weather cloth round the boat, and raised the quarters about nine
inches by nailing on the seats of the stern sheets, which proved of great
benefit to us.
The wind had been moderate all day in the south-east quarter with fine
weather; but about nine o'clock in the evening the clouds began to
gather, and we had a prodigious fall of rain with severe thunder and
lightning. By midnight we caught about twenty gallons of water. Being
miserably wet and cold I served to the people a teaspoonful of rum each
to enable them to bear with their distressed situation. The weather
continued extremely bad and the wind increased; we spent a very miserable
night without sleep except such as could be got in the midst of rain. The
day brought no relief but its light. The sea broke over us so much that
two men were constantly baling; and we had no choice how to steer, being
obliged to keep before the waves for fear of the boat filling.
The allowance now regularly served to each person was one 25th of a pound
of bread and a quarter of a pint of water, at eight in the morning, at
noon, and at sunset. Today I gave about half an ounce of pork for dinner
which, though any moderate person would have considered only as a
mouthful, was divided into three or four.
The rain abated towards noon and I observed the latitude to be 15 degrees
17 minutes south; course north 67 degrees west distance 78 miles;
longitude made 10 degrees west.
The wind continued strong from south-south-east to south-east with very
squally weather and a high breaking sea, so that we were miserably wet
and suffered great cold in the night.
Monday 11.
In the morning at daybreak I served to every person a teaspoonful of rum,
our limbs being so cramped that we could scarce move them. Our situation
was now extremely dangerous, the sea frequently running over our stern,
which kept us baling with all our strength.
At noon the sun appeared, which gave us as much pleasure as in a winter's
day in England. I issued the 25th of a pound of bread and a quarter of a
pint of water, as yesterday. Latitude observed 14 degrees 50 minutes
south; course north 71 degrees west distance 102 miles; and longitude by
account 11 degrees 39 minutes west from Tofoa.
In the evening it rained hard and we again experienced a dreadful night.
Tuesday 12.
At length the day came and showed to me a miserable set of beings, full
of wants, without anything to relieve them. Some complained of great pain
in their bowels, and everyone of having almost lost the use of his limbs.
The little sleep we got was no ways refreshing as we were covered with
sea and rain. I served a spoonful of rum at day-dawn, and the usual
allowance of bread and water for breakfast, dinner, and supper.
At noon it was almost calm, no sun to be seen, and some of us shivering
with cold. Course since yesterday west by north distance 89 miles;
latitude by account 14 degrees 33 minutes south; longitude made 13
degrees 9 minutes west. The direction of our course was to pass to the
northward of the New Hebrides.
The wet weather continued and in the afternoon the wind came from the
southward, blowing fresh in squalls. As there was no prospect of getting
our clothes dried I recommended to everyone to strip and wring them
through the salt water, by which means they received a warmth that while
wet with rain they could not have.
This afternoon we saw a kind of fruit on the water which Nelson told me
was the Barringtonia of Forster and, as I saw the same again in the
morning, and some men-of-war birds, I was led to believe that we were not
far from land.
We continued constantly shipping seas and baling, and were very wet and
cold in the night; but I could not afford the allowance of rum at
daybreak.
Wednesday 13.
At noon I had a sight of the sun, latitude 14 degrees 17 minutes south.
Course west by north 79 miles; longitude made 14 degrees 28 minutes west.
All this day we were constantly shipping water and suffered much cold and
shiverings in the night.
Thursday 14.
Fresh gales at south-east and gloomy weather with rain and a high sea. At
six in the morning we saw land from south-west by south eight leagues to
north-west by west three-quarters west six leagues, which soon after
appeared to be four islands, one of them much larger than the others, and
all of them high and remarkable. At noon we discovered a small island and
some rocks bearing north-west by north four leagues, and another island
west eight leagues, so that the whole were six in number; the four I had
first seen bearing from south half east to south-west by south; our
distance three leagues from the nearest island. My latitude observed was
13 degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude by account from Tofoa 15
degrees 49 minutes west; course since yesterday noon north 63 degrees
west distance 89 miles. At four in the afternoon we passed the
westernmost island.
Friday 15.
At one in the morning another island was discovered bearing
west-north-west five leagues distance, and at eight o'clock we saw it for
the last time bearing north-east seven leagues. A number of gannets,
boobies, and men-of-war birds were seen.
These islands lie between the latitude of 13 degrees 16 minutes and 14
degrees 10 minutes south: their longitude according to my reckoning 15
degrees 51 minutes to 17 degrees 6 minutes west from the island Tofoa.*
The largest island I judged to be about twenty leagues in circuit, the
others five or six. The easternmost is the smallest island and most
remarkable, having a high sugar loaf hill.
(*Footnote. By making a proportional allowance for the error afterwards
found in the dead reckoning I estimate the longitude of these islands to
be from 167 degrees 17 minutes east to 168 degrees 34 minutes east from
Greenwich.)
The sight of these islands served only to increase the misery of our
situation. We were very little better than starving with plenty in view;
yet to attempt procuring any relief was attended with so much danger that
prolonging of life, even in the midst of misery, was thought preferable,
while there remained hopes of being able to surmount our hardships. For
my own part I consider the general run of cloudy and wet weather to be a
blessing of Providence. Hot weather would have caused us to have died
with thirst; and probably being so constantly covered with rain or sea
protected us from that dreadful calamity.
As I had nothing to assist my memory I could not then determine whether
these islands were a part of the New Hebrides or not: I believe them to
be a new discovery which I have since found true but, though they were
not seen either by Monsieur Bougainville or Captain Cook, they are so
nearly in the neighbourhood of the New Hebrides that they must be
considered as part of the same group. They are fertile and inhabited, as
I saw smoke in several places.
The wind was at south-east with rainy weather all day. The night was very
dark, not a star could be seen to steer by, and the sea broke continually
over us. I found it necessary to counteract as much as possible the
effect of the southerly winds to prevent being driven too near New
Guinea, for in general we were forced to keep so much before the sea that
if we had not, at intervals of moderate weather, steered a more southerly
course we should inevitably from a continuance of the gales have been
thrown in sight of that coast: in which case there would most probably
have been an end to our voyage.
Saturday 16.
In addition to our miserable allowance of one 25th of a pound of bread
and a quarter of a pint of water I issued for dinner about an ounce of
salt pork to each person. I was often solicited for this pork, but I
considered it more proper to issue it in small quantities than to suffer
it to be all used at once or twice, which would have been done if I had
allowed it.
At noon I observed in 13 degrees 33 minutes south, longitude made from
Tofoa 19 degrees 27 minutes west; course north 82 degrees west, distance
101 miles. The sun breaking out through the clouds gave us hopes of
drying our wet clothes, but the sunshine was of short duration. We had
strong breezes at south-east by south and dark gloomy weather with storms
of thunder, lightning, and rain. The night was truly horrible, and not a
star to be seen; so that our steerage was uncertain.
Sunday 17.
At dawn of day I found every person complaining, and some of them
solicited extra allowance, which I positively refused. Our situation was
miserable: always wet, and suffering extreme cold in the night without
the least shelter from the weather. Being constantly obliged to bale to
keep the boat from filling was perhaps not to be reckoned an evil as it
gave us exercise.
The little rum we had was of great service: when our nights were
particularly distressing I generally served a teaspoonful or two to each
person: and it was always joyful tidings when they heard of my
intentions.
At noon a water-spout was very near on board of us. I issued an ounce of
pork in addition to the allowance of bread and water; but before we began
to eat every person stripped and, having wrung their clothes through the
seawater, found much warmth and refreshment. Course since yesterday noon
west-south-west distance 100 miles; latitude by account 14 degrees 11
minutes south and longitude made 21 degrees 3 minutes west.
The night was dark and dismal: the sea constantly breaking over us and
nothing but the wind and waves to direct our steerage. It was my
intention if possible to make New Holland to the southward of Endeavour
straits, being sensible that it was necessary to preserve such a
situation as would make a southerly wind a fair one, that we might range
along the reefs till an opening should be found into smooth water, and we
the sooner be able to pick up some refreshments.
Monday 18.
In the morning the rain abated, when we stripped and wrung our clothes
through the seawater as usual, which refreshed us greatly. Every person
complained of violent pain in their bones; I was only surprised that no
one was yet laid up. The customary allowance of one 25th of a pound of
bread and a quarter of a pint of water was served at breakfast, dinner,
and supper.
At noon I deduced my situation by account, for we had no glimpse of the
sun, to be in latitude 14 degrees 52 minutes south; course since
yesterday noon west-south-west 106 miles; longitude made from Tofoa 22
degrees 45 minutes west. Saw many boobies and noddies, a sign of being in
the neighbourhood of land. In the night we had very severe lightning with
heavy rain and were obliged to keep baling without intermission.
Tuesday 19.
Very bad weather and constant rain. At noon latitude by account 14
degrees 37 minutes south; course since yesterday north 81 degrees west,
distance 100 miles; longitude made 24 degrees 30 minutes west. With the
allowance of bread and water served half an ounce of pork to each person
for dinner.
Wednesday 20.
Fresh breezes east-north-east with constant rain, at times a deluge.
Always baling.
At dawn of day some of my people seemed half dead: our appearances were
horrible, and I could look no way but I caught the eye of someone in
distress. Extreme hunger was now too evident, but no one suffered from
thirst, nor had we much inclination to drink, that desire perhaps being
satisfied through the skin. The little sleep we got was in the midst of
water, and we constantly awoke with severe cramps and pains in our bones.
This morning I served about two teaspoonfuls of rum to each person and
the allowance of bread and water as usual. At noon the sun broke out and
revived everyone. I found we were in latitude 14 degrees 49 minutes
south; longitude made 25 degrees 46 minutes west; course south 88 degrees
west distance 75 miles.
All the afternoon we were so covered with rain and salt water that we
could scarcely see. We suffered extreme cold and everyone dreaded the
approach of night. Sleep, though we longed for it, afforded no comfort:
for my own part I almost lived without it.
Thursday 21.
About two o'clock in the morning we were overwhelmed with a deluge of
rain. It fell so heavy that we were afraid it would fill the boat, and
were obliged to bale with all our might. At dawn of day I served a larger
allowance of rum. Towards noon the rain abated and the sun shone, but we
were miserably cold and wet, the sea breaking constantly over us so that,
notwithstanding the heavy rain, we had not been able to add to our stock
of fresh water. Latitude by observation 14 degrees 29 minutes south, and
longitude made by account from Tofoa 27 degrees 25 minutes west; course
since yesterday noon north 78 degrees west 99 miles. I now considered
myself nearly on a meridian with the east part of New Guinea.
Friday 22.
Strong gales from east-south-east to south-south-east, a high sea, and
dark dismal night.
Our situation this day was extremely calamitous. We were obliged to take
the course of the sea, running right before it and watching with the
utmost care as the least error in the helm would in a moment have been
our destruction.
At noon it blew very hard and the foam of the sea kept running over our
stern and quarters; I however got propped up and made an observation of
the latitude in 14 degrees 17 minutes south; course north 85 degrees west
distance 130 miles; longitude made 29 degrees 38 minutes west.
The misery we suffered this night exceeded the preceding. The sea flew
over us with great force and kept us baling with horror and anxiety.
Saturday 23.
At dawn of day I found everyone in a most distressed condition, and I
began to fear that another such night would put an end to the lives of
several who seemed no longer able to support their sufferings. I served
an allowance of two teaspoonfuls of rum, after drinking which, having
wrung our clothes and taken our breakfast of bread and water, we became a
little refreshed.
Towards noon the weather became fair, but with very little abatement of
the gale and the sea remained equally high. With some difficulty I
observed the latitude to be 13 degrees 44 minutes south: course since
yesterday noon north 74 degrees west, distance 116 miles; longitude made
31 degrees 32 minutes west from Tofoa.
The wind moderated in the evening and the weather looked much better,
which rejoiced all hands so that they ate their scanty allowance with
more satisfaction than for some time past. The night also was fair but,
being always wet with the sea, we suffered much from the cold.
Sunday 24.
A fine morning, I had the pleasure to see, produced some cheerful
countenances and, the first time for 15 days past, we experienced comfort
from the warmth of the sun. We stripped and hung our clothes up to dry,
which were by this time become so threadbare that they would not keep out
either wet or cold.
At noon I observed in latitude 13 degrees 33 minutes south; longitude by
account from Tofoa 33 degrees 28 minutes west; course north 84 degrees
west, distance 114 miles. With the usual allowance of bread and water for
dinner I served an ounce of pork to each person. This afternoon we had
many birds about us which are never seen far from land, such as boobies
and noddies.
ALLOWANCE LESSENED.
As the sea began to run fair, and we shipped but little water, I took the
opportunity to examine into the state of our bread and found that,
according to the present mode of issuing, there was a sufficient quantity
remaining for 29 days allowance, by which time I hoped we should be able
to reach Timor. But as this was very uncertain and it was possible that,
after all, we might be obliged to go to Java, I determined to proportion
the allowance so as to make our stock hold out six weeks. I was
apprehensive that this would be ill received, and that it would require
my utmost resolution to enforce it for, small as the quantity was which I
intended to take away for our future good, yet it might appear to my
people like robbing them of life, and some, who were less patient than
their companions, I expected would very ill brook it. However on my
representing the necessity of guarding against delays that might be
occasioned in our voyage by contrary winds, or other causes, and
promising to enlarge upon the allowance as we got on, they cheerfully
agreed to my proposal. It was accordingly settled that every person
should receive one 25th of a pound of bread for breakfast, and the same
quantity for dinner, so that by omitting the proportion for supper, we
had 43 days allowance.
Monday 25.
At noon some noddies came so near to us that one of them was caught by
hand. This bird was about the size of a small pigeon. I divided it with
its entrails into 18 portions, and by a well-known method at sea of Who
shall have this?* it was distributed with the allowance of bread and
water for dinner, and ate up bones and all, with salt water for sauce. I
observed the latitude 13 degrees 32 minutes south; longitude made 35
degrees 19 minutes west; course north 89 degrees west, distance 108
miles.
(*Footnote. One person turns his back on the object that is to be
divided: another then points separately to the portions, and each of them
asking aloud, "Who shall have this?" to which the first answers by naming
somebody. This impartial method of division gives every man an equal
chance of the best share.)
In the evening several boobies flying very near to us we had the good
fortune to catch one of them. This bird is as large as a duck: like the
noddy it has received its name from seamen for suffering itself to be
caught on the masts and yards of ships. They are the most presumptive
proofs of being in the neighbourhood of land of any seafowl we are
acquainted with. I directed the bird to be killed for supper, and the
blood to be given to three of the people who were the most distressed for
want of food. The body, with the entrails, beak, and feet, I divided into
18 shares, and with an allowance of bread, which I made a merit of
granting, we made a good supper, compared with our usual fare.
Tuesday 26.
Fresh breezes from the south-east with fine weather. In the morning we
caught another booby so that Providence appeared to be relieving our
wants in an extraordinary manner. Towards noon we passed a great many
pieces of the branches of trees, some of which appeared to have been no
long time in the water. I had a good observation for the latitude, and
found our situation to be in 13 degrees 41 minutes south; longitude by
account from Tofoa 37 degrees 13 minutes west; course south 85 degrees
west, 112 miles. The people were overjoyed at the addition to their
dinner which was distributed in the same manner as on the preceding
evening, giving the blood to those who were the most in want of food.
To make the bread a little savoury most of the people frequently dipped
it in salt water; but I generally broke mine into small pieces and ate it
in my allowance of water, out of a coconut shell with a spoon,
economically avoiding to take too large a piece at a time, so that I was
as long at dinner as if it had been a much more plentiful meal.
The weather was now serene, which nevertheless was not without its
inconveniences, for we began to feel distress of a different kind from
that which we had lately been accustomed to suffer. The heat of the sun
was so powerful that several of the people were seized with a languor and
faintness which made life indifferent. We were so fortunate as to catch
two boobies in the evening: their stomachs contained several flying-fish
and small cuttlefish, all of which I saved to be divided for dinner the
next day.
Wednesday 27.
A fresh breeze at east-south-east with fair weather. We passed much
driftwood this forenoon and saw many birds; I therefore did not hesitate
to pronounce that we were near the reefs of New Holland. From my
recollection of Captain Cook's survey of this coast I considered the
direction of it to be north-west, and I was therefore satisfied that,
with the wind to the southward of east, I could always clear any dangers.
At noon I observed in latitude 13 degrees 26 minutes south; course since
yesterday north 82 degrees west, distance 109 miles; longitude made 39
degrees 4 minutes. After writing my account I divided the two birds with
their entrails and the contents of their maws into 18 portions and, as
the prize was a very valuable one it was divided as before, by calling
out Who shall have this? so that today, with the allowance of a 25th of a
pound of bread at breakfast, and another at dinner, with the proportion
of water, I was happy to see that every person thought he had feasted.
In the evening we saw a gannet; and the clouds remained so fixed in the
west that I had little doubt of our being near the land. The people,
after taking their allowance of water for supper, amused themselves with
conversing on the probability of what we should find.
Thursday 28.
At one in the morning the person at the helm heard the sound of breakers,
and I no sooner lifted up my head than I saw them close under our lee,
not more than a quarter of a mile distant from us. I immediately hauled
on a wind to the north-north-east and in ten minutes time we could
neither see nor hear them.
I have already mentioned my reason for making New Holland so far to the
southward: for I never doubted of numerous openings in the reef through
which I could have access to the shore and, knowing the inclination of
the coast to be to the north-west and the wind mostly to the southward of
east, I could with ease range such a barrier of reefs till I should find
a passage, which now became absolutely necessary, without a moment's loss
of time. The idea of getting into smooth water and finding refreshments
kept my people's spirits up: their joy was very great after we had got
clear of the breakers to which we had approached much nearer than I
thought was possible, without first discovering them.
Friday 29.
In the morning at daylight, we could see nothing of the land or of the
reefs. We bore away again and at nine o'clock saw the reefs. The sea
broke furiously over every part, and we had no sooner got near to them
than the wind came at east, so that we could only lie along the line of
the breakers, within which we saw the water so smooth that every person
already anticipated the heart-felt satisfaction he should receive as soon
as we could get within them. I now found we were embayed for we could not
lie clear with the sails, the wind having backed against us; and the sea
set in so heavy towards the reef that our situation was become unsafe. We
could effect but little with the oars, having scarce strength to pull
them, and I began to apprehend that we should be obliged to attempt
pushing over the reef. Even this I did not despair of effecting with
success when happily we discovered a break in the reef, about one mile
from us, and at the same time an island of a moderate height within it,
nearly in the same direction, bearing west half north. I entered the
passage with a strong stream running to the westward and found it about a
quarter of a mile broad, with every appearance of deep water.
On the outside the reef inclined to the north-east for a few miles, and
from thence to the north-west: on the south side of the entrance it
inclined to the south-south-west as far as I could see it, and I
conjecture that a similar passage to this which we now entered may be
found near the breakers that I first discovered which are 23 miles south
of this channel.
I did not recollect what latitude Providential channel* lies in, but I
considered it to be within a few miles of this, which is situate in 12
degrees 51 minutes south latitude.
(*Footnote. Providential Channel is laid down by Captain Cook in 12
degrees 34 minutes south, longitude 143 degrees 33 minutes east.)
Being now happily within the reefs and in smooth water I endeavoured to
keep near them to try for fish, but the tide set us to the north-west, I
therefore bore away in that direction and, having promised to land on the
first convenient spot we could find, all our past hardships seemed
already to be forgotten.
At noon I had a good observation by which our latitude was 12 degrees 46
minutes south, whence the foregoing situations may be considered as
determined with some exactness. The island first seen bore
west-south-west five leagues. This, which I have called the island
Direction, will in fair weather always show the channel, from which it
bears due west, and may be seen as soon as the reefs from a ship's
masthead: it lies in the latitude of 12 degrees 51 minutes south. These
however are marks too small for a ship to hit unless it can hereafter be
ascertained that passages through the reef are numerous along the coast
which I am inclined to think they are, in which case there would be
little risk even if the wind was directly on the shore.
My longitude made by dead reckoning from the island Tofoa to our passage
through the reef is 40 degrees 10 minutes west. Providential channel, I
imagine, must lie very nearly under the same meridian with our passage,
by which it appears we had out-run our reckoning 1 degree 9 minutes.
We now returned God thanks for his gracious protection, and with much
content took our miserable allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread and a
quarter of a pint of water for dinner.