CHAPTER 14._A voyage to the South Sea

Proceed in the Launch to the Island Tofoa.

Difficulty in obtaining Supplies there.

Treacherous Attack of the Natives.

Escape to Sea and bear away for New Holland.

1789. April.

My first determination was to seek a supply of breadfruit and water at

Tofoa, and afterwards to sail for Tongataboo, and there risk a

solicitation to Poulaho the king to equip our boat and grant us a supply

of water and provisions, so as to enable us to reach the East Indies.

The quantity of provisions I found in the boat was 150 pounds of bread,

16 pieces of pork, each piece weighing 2 pounds, 6 quarts of rum, 6

bottles of wine, with 28 gallons of water, and four empty barrecoes.

Fortunately it was calm all the afternoon till about four o'clock, when

we were so far to windward that, with a moderate easterly breeze which

sprung up, we were able to sail. It was nevertheless dark when we got to

Tofoa where I expected to land, but the shore proved to be so steep and

rocky that we were obliged to give up all thoughts of it and keep the

boat under the lee of the island with two oars, for there was no

anchorage. Having fixed on this mode of proceeding for the night I served

to every person half a pint of grog, and each took to his rest as well as

our unhappy situation would allow.

Wednesday 29.

In the morning at dawn of day we rowed along shore in search of a

landing-place, and about ten o'clock we discovered a cove with a stony

beach at the north-west part of the island, where I dropped the grapnel

within 20 yards of the rocks. A great surf ran on the shore but, as I was

unwilling to diminish our stock of provisions, I landed Mr. Samuel and

some others, who climbed the cliffs and got into the country to search

for supplies. The rest of us remained at the cove, not discovering any

other way into the country than that by which Mr. Samuel had proceeded.

It was great consolation to me to find that the spirits of my people did

not sink, notwithstanding our miserable and almost hopeless situation.

Towards noon Mr. Samuel returned with a few quarts of water which he had

found in holes; but he had met with no spring or any prospect of a

sufficient supply in that particular, and had seen only the signs of

inhabitants. As it was uncertain what might be our future necessities I

only issued a morsel of bread and a glass of wine to each person for

dinner.

I observed the latitude of this cove to be 19 degrees 41 minutes south.

This is the north-west part of Tofoa, the north-westernmost of the

Friendly Islands.

The weather was fair but the wind blew so strong from the east-south-east

that we could not venture to sea. Our detention made it absolutely

necessary to endeavour to obtain something towards our support; for I

determined if possible to keep our first stock entire. We therefore

weighed and rowed along shore to see if anything could be got; and at

last discovered some coconut trees; but they were on the top of high

precipices and the surf made it dangerous landing: both one and the other

we however got the better of. Some of the people with much difficulty

climbed the cliffs and got about 20 coconuts, and others flung them to

ropes, by which we hauled them through the surf into the boat. This was

all that could be done here and, as I found no place so safe as the one

we had left to spend the night at, I returned to the cove and, having

served a coconut to each person, we went to rest again in the boat.

Thursday 30.

At daylight we attempted to put to sea; but the wind and weather proved

so bad that I was glad to return to our former station where, after

issuing a morsel of bread and a spoonful of rum to each person, we

landed, and I went off with Mr. Nelson, Mr. Samuel, and some others, into

the country, having hauled ourselves up the precipice by long vines which

were fixed there by the natives for that purpose, this being the only way

into the country.

We found a few deserted huts and a small plantain walk but little taken

care of, from which we could only collect three small bunches of

plantains. After passing this place we came to a deep gully that led

towards a mountain near a volcano and, as I conceived that in the rainy

season very great torrents of water must pass through it, we hoped to

find sufficient for our use remaining in some holes of the rocks; but

after all our search the whole that we collected was only nine gallons.

We advanced within two miles of the foot of the highest mountain in the

island, on which is the volcano that is almost constantly burning. The

country near it is covered with lava and has a most dreary appearance. As

we had not been fortunate in our discoveries, and saw nothing to

alleviate our distresses except the plantains and water above-mentioned,

we returned to the boat exceedingly fatigued and faint. When I came to

the precipice whence we were to descend into the cove I was seized with

such a dizziness in my head that I thought it scarce possible to effect

it: however by the assistance of Nelson and others they at last got me

down, in a weak condition. Every person being returned by noon I gave

about an ounce of pork and two plantains to each, with half a glass of

wine. I again observed the latitude of this place 19 degrees 41 minutes

south. The people who remained by the boat I had directed to look for

fish or what they could pick up about the rocks; but nothing eatable

could be found: so that upon the whole we considered ourselves on as

miserable a spot of land as could well be imagined.

I could not say positively from the former knowledge I had of this island

whether it was inhabited or not; but I knew it was considered inferior to

the other islands, and I was not certain but that the Indians only

resorted to it at particular times. I was very anxious to ascertain this

point for, in case there had been only a few people here, and those could

have furnished us with but very moderate supplies, the remaining in this

spot to have made preparations for our voyage would have been preferable

to the risk of going amongst multitudes, where perhaps we might lose

everything. A party therefore sufficiently strong I determined should go

another route as soon as the sun became lower, and they cheerfully

undertook it.

About two o'clock in the afternoon the party set out but, after suffering

much fatigue, they returned in the evening without any kind of success.

At the head of the cove about 150 yards from the waterside there was a

cave; the distance across the stony beach was about 100 yards, and from

the country into the cove there was no other way than that which I have

already described. The situation secured us from the danger of being

surprised, and I determined to remain on shore for the night with a part

of my people that the others might have more room to rest in the boat

with the master, whom I directed to lie at a grapnel and be watchful in

case we should be attacked. I ordered one plantain for each person to be

boiled and, having supped on this scanty allowance with a quarter of a

pint of grog, and fixed the watches for the night, those whose turn it

was laid down to sleep in the cave, before which we kept up a good fire

yet notwithstanding we were much troubled with flies and mosquitoes.

May. Friday 1.

At dawn of day the party set out again in a different route to see what

they could find, in the course of which they suffered greatly for want of

water: they however met with two men, a woman, and a child: the men came

with them to the cove and brought two coconut shells of water. I

endeavoured to make friends of these people and sent them away for

breadfruit, plantains, and water. Soon after other natives came to us;

and by noon there were thirty about us, from whom we obtained a small

supply; but I could only afford one ounce of pork and a quarter of a

breadfruit to each man for dinner, with half a pint of water, for I was

fixed in my resolution not to use any of the bread or water in the boat.

No particular chief was yet among the natives: they were notwithstanding

tractable, and behaved honestly, exchanging the provisions they brought

for a few buttons and beads. The party who had been out informed me of

their having seen several neat plantations, so that it remained no longer

a doubt of there being settled inhabitants on the island, for which

reason I determined to get what I could, and to sail the first moment

that the wind and weather would allow us to put to sea.

I was much puzzled in what manner to account to the natives for the loss

of my ship: I knew they had too much sense to be amused with a story that

the ship was to join me, when she was not in sight from the hills. I was

at first doubtful whether I should tell the real fact or say that the

ship had overset and sunk, and that we only were saved: the latter

appeared to be the most proper and advantageous for us, and I accordingly

instructed my people, that we might all agree in one story. As I expected

enquiries were made about the ship, and they seemed readily satisfied

with our account; but there did not appear the least symptom of joy or

sorrow in their faces, although I fancied I discovered some marks of

surprise. Some of the natives were coming and going the whole afternoon,

and we got enough of breadfruit, plantains, and coconuts for another day;

but of water they only brought us about five pints. A canoe also came in

with four men and brought a few coconuts and breadfruit which I bought as

I had done the rest. Nails were much enquired after, but I would not

suffer any to be shown as they were wanted for the use of the boat.

Towards evening I had the satisfaction to find our stock of provisions

somewhat increased, but the natives did not appear to have much to spare.

What they brought was in such small quantities that I had no reason to

hope we should be able to procure from them sufficient to stock us for

our voyage. At sunset all the natives left us in quiet possession of the

cove. I thought this a good sign, and made no doubt that they would come

again the next day with a better supply of food and water, with which I

hoped to sail without farther delay: for if in attempting to get to

Tongataboo we should be driven to leeward of the islands there would be a

larger quantity of provisions to support us against such a misfortune.

At night I served a quarter of a breadfruit and a coconut to each person

for supper and, a good fire being made, all but the watch went to sleep.

Saturday 2.

At daybreak the next morning I was pleased to find everyone's spirits a

little revived, and that they no longer regarded me with those anxious

looks which had constantly been directed towards me since we lost sight

of the ship: every countenance appeared to have a degree of cheerfulness,

and they all seemed determined to do their best.

As there was no certainty of our being supplied with water by the natives

I sent a party among the gullies in the mountains with empty shells to

see what could be found. In their absence the natives came about us as I

expected, and in greater numbers; two canoes also came in from round the

north side of the island. In one of them was an elderly chief called

Maccaackavow. Soon after some of our foraging party returned, and with

them came a good-looking chief called Egijeefow, or perhaps more properly

Eefow, Egij or Eghee, signifying a chief. To each of these men I made a

present of an old shirt and a knife, and I soon found they either had

seen me or had heard of my being at Annamooka. They knew I had been with

captain Cook, who they inquired after, and also captain Clerk. They were

very inquisitive to know in what manner I had lost my ship. During this

conversation a young man named Nageete appeared, whom I remembered to

have seen at Annamooka: he expressed much pleasure at our meeting. I

enquired after Poulaho and Feenow, who they said were at Tongataboo; and

Eefow agreed to accompany me thither if I would wait till the weather

moderated. The readiness and affability of this man gave me much

satisfaction.

This however was but of short duration for the natives began to increase

in number and I observed some symptoms of a design against us. Soon after

they attempted to haul the boat on shore, on which I brandished my

cutlass in a threatening manner and spoke to Eefow to desire them to

desist, which they did and everything became quiet again. My people who

had been in the mountains now returned with about three gallons of water.

I kept buying up the little breadfruit that was brought to us, and

likewise some spears to arm my men with, having only four cutlasses, two

of which were in the boat. As we had no means of improving our situation

I told our people I would wait till sunset, by which time perhaps

something might happen in our favour: for if we attempted to go at

present we must fight our way through, which we could do more

advantageously at night; and that in the meantime we would endeavour to

get off to the boat what we had bought. The beach was lined with the

natives and we heard nothing but the knocking of stones together, which

they had in each hand. I knew very well this was the sign of an attack.

At noon I served a coconut and a breadfruit to each person for dinner,

and gave some to the chiefs, with whom I continued to appear intimate and

friendly. They frequently importuned me to sit down but I as constantly

refused: for it occurred both to Nelson and myself that the intended to

seize hold of me if I gave them such an opportunity. Keeping therefore

constantly on our guard we were suffered to eat our uncomfortable meal in

some quietness.

After dinner we began by little and little to get our things into the

boat, which was a troublesome business on account of the surf. I

carefully watched the motions of the natives, who continued to increase

in number, and found that, instead of their intention being to leave us,

fires were made, and places fixed on for their stay during the night.

Consultations were also held among them and everything assured me we

should be attacked. I sent orders to the master that when he saw us

coming down he should keep the boat close to the shore that we might the