C H A P. XXIII

I HAD now the whole south of _France_, from the banks of the _Rhône_ to

those of the _Garonne_, to traverse upon my mule at my own leisure—_at

my own leisure_——for I had left Death, the Lord knows——and He only—how

far behind me——“I have followed many a man thro’ _France_, quoth he—but

never at this mettlesome rate.”——Still he followed,——and still I fled

him——but I fled him cheerfully——still he pursued——but, like one who

pursued his prey without hope——as he lagg’d, every step he lost,

softened his looks——why should I fly him at this rate?

So notwithstanding all the commissary of the post-office had said, I

changed the _mode_ of my travelling once more; and, after so

precipitate and rattling a course as I had run, I flattered my fancy

with thinking of my mule, and that I should traverse the rich plains of

_Languedoc_ upon his back, as slowly as foot could fall.

There is nothing more pleasing to a traveller——or more terrible to

travel-writers, than a large rich plain; especially if it is without

great rivers or bridges; and presents nothing to the eye, but one

unvaried picture of plenty: for after they have once told you, that

’tis delicious! or delightful! (as the case happens)—that the soil was

grateful, and that nature pours out all her abundance, &c. . . . they

have then a large plain upon their hands, which they know not what to

do with—and which is of little or no use to them but to carry them to

some town; and that town, perhaps of little more, but a new place to

start from to the next plain——and so on.

—This is most terrible work; judge if I don’t manage my plains better.

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