CAVIARE ON PRINCIPLE

One can usually either begin or end with Mr. Chesterton, though one

can seldom do both. “It is simpler to eat caviare on impulse than to

eat grape-nuts on principle,” he says, in one of his intervals of

pure lucidity. I should like to make a Chestertonian transposition,

and pronounce that it is better (I do not say simpler) to eat caviare

on principle than to eat grape-nuts on impulse. The fact is that the

modern fad of simplicity for its own sake has ceased to be merely

ridiculous; it has become dangerous. May not some of us lift our voices

against it?

I have no right, I suppose, to ally, in my own mind, socialists and

vegetarians. But I nearly always find, when I ask a vegetarian if

he is a socialist, or a socialist if he is a vegetarian, that the

answer is in the affirmative. I am sure that they, on their side,

confuse snobs with meat-eaters. One could forgive them, were they more

bitterly logical. For my own part, I should be quite willing to go

the length of all Hinduism and say that rice itself has a soul. I can

even see myself joining a “movement” for giving the vote to violets

and disfranchising orchids. This, however, is not their desire. They

do not wish to make even the ox a citizen--only a brother; and I have

never discovered that vegetarians--even when they were “hygienic,”

not “sentimental,” ones--were anxious to reproduce the history of the

rice-fed peoples. But let their logic take care of itself. My point is

really that socialists and vegetarians are banded together to fight for

the simplifying of life. Socialism, of course, organizes as furiously

as Capital itself; and I leave it to any one if a nut-cutlet is not

complicated to the point of mendacity. But ostensibly both sects are

on the side of Procrustes against human vagaries. Both would surely

consider caviare immoral; either because no one ought to eat it, or

because every one cannot. It does not much matter, I fancy, which point

you make against the dried roe of the sturgeon. My own plea for caviare

rests precisely on the fact that it is not, and cannot be, thrust into

every one’s mouth. It is not simple, no. The only really “simple”

food-stuff is manna. Imagine, for example, calling anything simple that

has to be shot out of a cannon by way of preparation. In point of fact,

very few people eat caviare save on impulse,--otherwise, they find it

too nasty. But it is an impulse worthy of being dogmatized; of becoming

a principle.

Simplicity is an acquired taste. Mankind, left free, instinctively

complicates life. The hardest command to follow has always been that

which bids us take no thought for the morrow. Perhaps that is what Mr.

Chesterton means when he talks of the difficulty of eating grape-nuts

on principle. The real drawback to “the simple life” is that it is not

simple. If you are living it, you positively can do nothing else. There

is not time. For the simple life demands virtually that there shall be

no specialization. The _Hausfrau_ who is living the simple life

must, after all, sweep, scour, wash, and mend. She must also cook;

from that, even Battle Creek cannot save her. She may dream sternly

of Margaret Fuller, who read Plato while she pared apples; but in her

secret heart she knows that either Plato or the apples suffered. And

from what point of view is it simpler to have a maid-of-all-work than

to indulge one’s self in liveried lackeys? Not, obviously, for the

mistress; and it is surely simpler to be an adequate second footman

than to be an adequate _bonne-à-tout-faire_. We should really

simplify life by having more servants rather than fewer; more luxury

instead of less. The smoothest machinery is the most complicated; and

which of us wants to sink the Mauretania and go back to Robert Fulton’s

steamboat? One would think that the decision would be made naturally

for one by one’s income. But it is the triumph of the new paradox that

this is not so. Thousands of people seem to be infected with the idea

that by doing more themselves they bestow leisure on others; that by

wearing shabby clothes they somehow make it possible for others to

dress better--though they thus admit tacitly that leisure and elegance

are not evil things. Or perhaps--though Heaven forbid they should be

right!--they merely think that by refusing nightingales’ tongues, they

make every one more content with porridge. Let us be gallant about

the porridge that we must eat, but let us never forget that there are

better things to eat than porridge.

And all time past, was it all for this?

Times unforgotten, and treasures of things?

What is the use of throwing great museums open to the people, if

you tell them at the same time that to possess the contents of the

museums would not make a private person happier? Why should there

be _cordons bleus_ in the world, if we ought to live on bread

and milk? Above all, why have we praised, through the centuries, all

the slow processes, the tardy consummations, of perfection, if raw

material, either in art or life, is really best? I recall at this

instant a friend of mine who expresses her democracy in her footwear.

Her frocks are as charming as money can induce Paquin to make them; but

if her frocks are an insult to the poor, her boots are an insult to the

rich. I have seen her walk to a garden-party, in real lace, and out at

heel. She fancied, I think, that her inadequate boots obliterated the

deplorable social distinction between herself and her cook. In point

of fact, her cook would not have condescended to them; would not have

considered herself a “lady” if she had.

I have other friends who feel strongly the ignominy of personal

service: who agree with many ignorant young women that it is more

dignified to be a bullied, insulted, underpaid shop-girl with a

rhinestone sunburst, than a well-paid, highly-respected parlor-maid

in a uniform. Accordingly, they conscientiously deprive themselves of

the parlor-maid, and spend her wages in trying to get a vote for the

shop-girl. I do not understand their distinctions in liberty, or their

definition of degradation. The parlor-maid at least can choose the

mistress, but the shop-girl cannot choose the floor-walker.

I am, myself, essentially an undomestic woman, and I dislike the

parlor-maid’s tasks to the point of feeling excessive irritation

at having, occasionally, in this mad world, to perform them. But,

seriously speaking, apart from the temperamental quirk, I would don her

clothes and follow officially her career, rather than that parlor-maids

in uniforms should pass wholly from the world. It is as if these

people said, “Since those who are parlor-maids themselves cannot very

well employ parlor-maids, then let no one have a parlor-maid.” Their

factitious altruism, with all its peril, might be forgiven them; but

the misguided creatures (who are human beings and egotists, after all,

and as such must “save their face”) go on to say that it is really much

nicer not to have parlor-maids. And that lie is unpardonable, for it

strikes at the root of human experience. Parlor-maids would never have

become a convention if they had not been found desirable.

Are we really, at this late day, going to be duped by the mid-century

fallacy that “plain living and high thinking” are a natural

combination? Even if Shakespeare at New Place teaches us nothing, we

cannot fail to be impressed by the memory of Thoreau, stealing home

from Lake Walden by dark, to provide himself secretly with better fare

than the woods afforded. As if, indeed, any one who had tried plain

living did not know that high thinking was done, if at all, in spite

of it! “The hand of little employment hath the daintier sense,” as

Shakespeare long since said. Let us open our own front doors, polish

our own shoes, dust our own bibelots, and make messes on a chafing-dish

when the cook is out; and let us do it gallantly. But let us not

pretend that it is more civilized to do these things ourselves than to

have them skilfully done for us. The prince in disguise makes the most

charming beggar in the world, no doubt; but that is because--as all

fairy-tales from the beginning of time have taught us--the prince wears

his rags as if they were purple. And, to do that, he not only must once

have worn purple, but must never forget the purple that he has worn.

And to the argument that all cannot wear purple, I can, as I say, only

reply that that seems to me to be no reason why all should wear rags.

Until every one is too good to be a parlor-maid, let us open our own

doors, if we must--provided we do it according to the great tradition

of door-opening; but how can we do it according to the great tradition

if we abolish parlor-maids and dry up the fount of the great tradition?

And, whatever the simplifiers say, there is no doubt that, as yet,

there are, to one person who is too good for door-opening, ten persons

who are by no means good enough for it. I have never been able to

imagine just how the sound of the Last Trump is going to shiver the

aristocracy of earth into the democracy of Heaven. To be sure, it is

not my affair. But at least one can have, this side the grave, little

patience with the altruisms of the Procrusteans. They merely wish to

make each of us an incompetent Jack-at-all-trades. And one had thought

the German universities, if they had done nothing else, had blown that

bubble!

A friend of mine asked me the other day if I did not feel degraded to

be at the mercy of servants; humiliated by knowing that they could

perform domestic tasks better than I, and could take advantage of that

fact. I confess it had never occurred to me. If my cook felt degraded

by being unable to talk French, I should think her a silly snob.

Are we not all, economically, at one another’s mercy? Of what does

enthusiastic living of the “simple” life make us independent, save

of a few hard-learned and precious lessons of taste? The successful

housewife is the one who has succeeded in imitating perfectly several

trained servants. But the criterion is still the trained servant. The

distinguished beggar is the one who wears his rags as if they were

purple. But, to appreciate him, we must know the look of purple rightly

worn. The admirable vegetarian eats his shredded wheat as if it were

caviare. But where would be the beauty of his performance were not

someone, somewhere, eating caviare as if it were shredded wheat?

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