[Illustration: _a._ Grass-covered structures near Anadarko]

[Illustration: _b._ Grass-covered lodge, about 1880

WICHITA HABITATIONS]

In addition to the earth-covered lodges found in the permanent villages,

they had skin tents which were occupied when away from their towns on

war or hunting expeditions. Like the great majority of the native

tribes, the Arikara would move about during certain seasons of the year.

Hayden, writing about the year 1855, referred to this custom: "At the

commencement of the winter the Arikaras leave their village in quest of

buffalo, which seldom approach near enough to be killed in the vicinity

of their cabins. They then encamp in skin tents, in various directions

from the Missouri or along its banks, wherever the buffalo may chance to

range. They pass the winter in hunting, and return to their permanent

village early in the spring, bringing with them their skins in an

unprepared state, with a great supply of meat." (Hayden, (1), p. 354.)

Such were the hunting parties often met by the traders and explorers, as

that mentioned by Sergeant Gass on October 15, 1804. That they were

skilled agriculturists is attested by a note referring to the time they

were still living in the old Mandan village below Fort Clark, October

11, 1853. In the journal of a party at that time descending the Missouri

from Fort Benton to St. Louis appears this entry:

"Arrived at Fort Clark, or Aricaree's village. It is situated on the top

of a very high bluff on the bank of the river.... The Rees are not

friendly to the whites, and are kept from open hostilities only by fear.

They are a large tribe, and on the fertile meadows they occupy, raise a

great amount of corn and pumpkins, which they exchange with the Crows

and Dacotahs for dried buffalo meat and robes. They exported five

thousand bushels of excellent corn this year...." (Saxton, (1), p. 265.)

And it must be remembered that the principal implement was the primitive

hoe, formed of a scapula of a buffalo attached to a wooden handle.

WICHITA.

Like the other members of this linguistic family, whose villages have

already been described, the Wichita had two forms of dwellings, which

they occupied under different conditions. One served as the structure in

their permanent villages, the other being of a more temporary nature.

But, instead of the earth-covered lodges used farther north, their fixed

villages were composed of groups of high circular structures, entirely

thatched from bottom to top. Their movable camps, when away from home on

war or hunting expeditions, consisted of the skin-covered tents of the

plains.

The peculiar thatched structures were first seen and described by

Europeans in the year 1541, when Coronado crossed the vast rolling

prairies and reached the Quivira (the Wichita) about the northeastern

part of the present State of Kansas. Here extensive village sites, with

innumerable traces of occupancy, undoubtedly indicate the positions of

the ancient settlements.

In the narrative of the expedition led by Coronado, prepared by one of

the Spanish officers, Juan Jaramillo, appears an interesting though very

brief description of the thatched dwellings of the people of Quivira:

"The houses which these Indians have were of straw, and most of them

round, and the straw reached down to the ground like a wall, so that

they did not have the symmetry or the style of these here [referring to

pueblos]; they have something like a chapel or sentry box outside and

around these, with an entry, where the Indians appear seated or

reclining." (Winship, (1), p. 591.) Castaneda, writing of the same

villages, said: "The houses are round, without a wall, and they have one

story like a loft, under the roof, where they sleep and keep their

belongings. The roofs are of straw." (Winship, (1), pp. 528-529.) This

evidently referred to structures similar to that shown on the right of

the lodge in plate 55, _a_.

A photograph of a large Wichita dwelling, of the form mentioned, is

reproduced in plate 55, _b_. The picture was probably made about the

year 1880. The door in front is open, and there appears to be another on

the extreme left, which would be 90 deg. from the former; therefore there

were evidently four entrances. This is explained in the following

account of the construction and arrangement of such a dwelling:

"Its construction was begun by drawing a circle on the ground, and on

the outline setting a number of crotched posts, in which beams were

laid. Against these, poles were set very closely in a row so as to lean

inward; these in turn were laced with willow rods and their tops brought

together and securely-fastened so as to form a peak. Over this frame a

heavy thatch of grass was laid and bound down by slender rods, and at

each point where the rods joined an ornamental tuft of grass was tied.

Two poles, laid at right angles, jutting out in four projecting points,

were fastened to the apex of the roof, and over the center, where they

crossed, rose a spire, 2 ft. high or more, made of bunches of grass.

Four doors, opening to each point of the compass, were formerly made,

but now, except when the house is to be used for ceremonial purposes,

only two are provided, one on the east to serve for the morning, and one

on the west to go in and out of when the sun is in that quarter. The

fireplace was a circular excavation in the center of the floor, and the

smoke found egress through a hole left high up in the roof toward the E.

The four projecting beams at the peak pointed toward and were symbolic

of the four points of the compass, where were the paths down which the

powers descended to help man. The spire typified the abode in the zenith

of the mysterious permeating force that animates all nature. The

fireplace was accounted sacred; it was never treated lightly even in the

daily life of the family. The couches of the occupants were placed

against the wall. They consisted of a framework on which was fitted a

woven covering of reeds. Upon this robes or rush mats were spread. The

grass house is a comely structure. Skill is required to build it, and it

has an attractive appearance both within and without." (Fletcher, (1).)

An interesting photograph made some 30 or 40 years ago, near Anadarko,

Caddo County, Oklahoma, is reproduced in plate 55, _a_. This shows a

grass lodge of the usual form, and to the right of it appears to be an

arbor or shelter, having a thatched roof but open on the sides. This

second structure may be of the form which was seen by the Spaniards

nearly four centuries ago, a place "where the Indians appear seated or

reclining." It undoubtedly served as a gathering place, out of doors,

and gave protection from the rays of the sun.

WACO.

On August 23, 1853, the expedition under command of Lieut. A. W. Whipple

camped at some point in the southwestern portion of the present McClain

County, Oklahoma, and that evening were visited by two Indians, "the one

tall and straight, the other ill-looking. Their dress consisted of a

blue cotton blanket wrapped around the waist, a head-dress of eagles'

feathers, brass wire bracelets, and moccasins. The outer cartilages of

their ears were cut through in various places, and short sticks inserted

in place of rings. They were painted with vermilion, and carried bows of

bois d'arc three feet long, and cow-skin quivers filled with arrows. The

latter were about twenty-six inches in length, with very sharp steel

heads, tastefully and skillfully made. The feathers with which they were

tipped, and the sinews which bound them, were prettily tinted with red,

blue, and green. The shafts were colored red, and said to be poisoned."

(Whipple, (1), p. 22.) Unable to converse with the two strangers, the

interpreter proceeded to interview them by signs. "The graceful motions

of the hands seemed to convey ideas faster than words could have done,

and with the whole operation we were highly amused and interested. Our

visitors now said that they were not Kichais, but Huecos, and that they

were upon a hunting expedition." Referring to the same two Indians

another member of the expedition wrote:

"The newcomers belonged to the tribe of Wakos, or Waekos, neighbours of

the Witchita Indians, who live to the east of the Witchita Mountains, in

a village situated on the bank of a small river rising in that

direction. They were now on a journey to the Canadian, to meet a

barter-trader there, but having heard of our expedition, had turned out

of their way to pay us a visit. The Wakos and Witchitas differ only in

name, and in some slight varieties of dialect; their villages are built

in the same style, and are only about a thousand yards from one another.

Their wigwams, of which the Witchitas count forty-two, and the Wakos

only twenty, look a good deal like haycocks, and are constructed with

pliable poles, eighteen or twenty feet long, driven into the ground in a

circle of twenty-five feet diameter; the poles are then bent together

and fastened to one another at the top, and the spaces between filled

with plaited willow twigs and turf, a low aperture being left for a

door, and one above for a chimney. A place is hollowed out in the centre

for a fireplace, and around this, and a little raised, are placed the

beds of the inhabitants of the hut; which, when covered with good

buffalo skins, make tolerable resting-places. Each of these wigwams is

generally occupied by two families; and the Wako tribe is reckoned at

about two hundred, that of the Witchitas at not less than eight hundred

members. These Indians practise agriculture; and beans, peas, maize,

gourds, and melons are seen prospering very well round their villages."

(Moellhausen, (1), I, pp. 115-116.)

CADDO.

The "Caddo proper," or Cenis as they were called by Joutel, early

occupied the southwestern part of the present State of Arkansas, the Red

River Valley, and adjacent region to the south and west.

La Salle was murdered near the banks of the Trinity, in eastern Texas,

March 20, 1687. Joutel and several others of the party pushed on, and

nine days later, when traversing the valley of the Red River, arrived at

a village of the Cenis. Fortunately a very good account of the people

and their homes is preserved in Joutel's narrative, and from it the

following quotations are made:

"The _Indian_ that was with us conducted us to their Chief's Cottage.

By the Way, we saw many other Cottages, and the Elders coming to meet us

in their Formalities, which consisted in some Goat Skins dress'd and

painted of several Colours, which they wore on their Shoulders like

Belts, and Plumes of Feathers of several Colours, on their Heads, like

Coronets.... All their Faces were daub'd with black or red. There were

twelve Elders, who walk'd in the Middle, and the Youth and Warriors in

Ranks, on the Sides of those old Men." After remaining a short time with

the chief "They led us to a larger Cottage, a Quarter of a League from

thence, being the Hut in which they have their public Rejoycings, and

the great Assemblies. We found it furnish'd with Mats for us to sit on.

The Elders seated themselves round about us, and they brought us to eat,

some _Sagamite_, which is their Pottage, little Beans, Bread made of

_Indian_ Corn, and another Sort they make with boil'd Flower, and at

last they made us smoke."

They proceeded to another village not far away, and, so the narrative

continues: "By the Way, we saw several Cottages at certain Distances,

stragling up and down, as the Ground happens to be fit for Tillage. The

Field lies about the Cottage, and at other Distances there are other

large Huts, not inhabited, but only serving for publick Assemblies,

either upon Occasion of Rejoycing, or to consult about Peace and War.

"The Cottages that are inhabited, are not each of them for a private

Family, for in some of them are fifteen or twenty, each of which has its

Nook or Corner, Bed and other Utensils to its self: but without any

Partition to separate it from the rest: However, they have Nothing in

Common besides the Fire, which is in the Midst of the Hut, and never

goes out. It is made of great Trees, the Ends whereof are laid together,

so that when once lighted, it lasts a long Time, and the first Comer

takes Care to keep it up." Here follows a brief description of the

appearance of the structures of the village, the dwellings resembling

those later mentioned as being typical of the Wichita. "The Cottages are

round at the Top, after the manner of a Bee-Hive, or a Reek of Hay. Some

of them are sixty Foot Diameter." There follows a brief account of the

method of constructing such a house. "In order to build them, they plant

Trees as thick as a Man's thigh, tall and strait, and placing them in a

Circle, and joyning the Tops together, from the Dome, or round Top, then

they lash and cover them with Weeds. When they remove their Dwellings,

they generally burn the Cottages they leave, and build new on the Ground

they design to inhabit. Their Moveables are some Bullocks Hides and

Goats Skins well cur'd, some Mats close wove, wherewith they adorn their

Huts, and some Earthen Vessels, which they are very skilful at making,

and wherein they boil their Flesh or Roots, or _Sagamite_, which, as has

been said, is their Pottage. They have also some small Baskets made of

Canes, serving to put in their Fruit and other Provisions. Their Beds

are made of Canes, rais'd two or three Foot above the Ground, handsomely

fitted with Mats and Bullocks Hides, or Goats Skins well cur'd, which

serve them for Feather Beds, or Quilts and Blankets; and those Beds are

parted one from another by Mats hung up." (Joutel, (1), pp. 106-109.)

The preceding is probably the clearest description of the furnishings of

a native structure standing beyond the Mississippi during the last

quarter of the seventeenth century that has been preserved. The large

circular structures served as the dwelling place of many individuals.

The beds were placed, so it may be assumed, in a line around the wall,

each separated from its neighbor by a mat. A large fire burned in the

center of the space. In many respects the large dwellings of the Caddo

must have closely resembled the great round structures which stood north

of St. Augustine, Florida, about the year 1700. (Bushnell, (1), pp.

84-86.)

Brief accounts of the many small tribes living south of the Arkansas

River soon after the transfer of Louisiana contain references to the

numerous villages, but fail, unfortunately, to describe the structures

in detail. (Sibley, (1), pp. 721-725.) The dwellings probably resembled

those already mentioned as standing a century and more before.

CONCLUSION.

The references brought together and presented on the preceding pages

will reveal the nature of the dwellings and the appearance of the camps

and villages which stood, so short a time ago, in the region between the

Mississippi and the Rocky Mountains. First encountered in the southern

part of the country by the Spanish expeditions led by De Soto and

Coronado before the middle of the sixteenth century, and by the French

who entered the upper and central portions of the Mississippi Valley

during the latter part of the seventeenth century, all types of

structures continued to be reared and occupied until the latter half of

the nineteenth century, while some forms are even now in use, although

it is highly probable that within another generation these, too, will

have disappeared.

Various writers during the eighteenth century mentioned the tribes of

the Upper Missouri Valley, but all accounts prepared at that time are

rather vague, as was their knowledge of conditions on and in the region

bordering the Great Plains. And not until after the transfer of

Louisiana to the United States, and as a result of the several

expeditions sent out by the Government to explore the newly acquired

territories, did the various groups of tribes, with their peculiar

characteristics, become known with a degree of certainty. But with the

transfer of Louisiana conditions rapidly changed. Hunters and traders

soon penetrated the wilderness where few had gone before. Fort Crawford,

at the mouth of the Wisconsin; Fort Snelling, just below the Falls of

St. Anthony; and Leavenworth, on the Missouri, were established before

the close of the first quarter of the century. Towns were built farther

and farther beyond the old frontier, and on April 18, 1851, Kurz wrote

in his journal:

"St Joseph, formerly the trading post of Joseph Robidoux, is at the foot

of the Blacksnake hills, on the left bank of the Missouri.... The

streets are crowded with traders and emigrants on their way to

California and Oregon. Many Indians of the tribes of the Pottowatomis,

Foxes (Musquakees), Kikapoos, Iowas, and Otoes are continually in the

town.... In summer the _Bourgeois_, or Chiefs, the clerks and _Engages_

of the fur companies enliven the streets.... St. Joseph is now what St

Louis was formerly--their gathering place." Thus the Indian in his

primitive state was doomed, as were the vast herds of buffalo which then

roamed, unopposed, over the far-reaching prairies.

In studying the various types of structures it is interesting to learn

how the natural environments influenced the form of dwellings erected by

the tribes of a particular section. Thus in the densely timbered country

of the north, about the headwaters of the Mississippi and far beyond,

the mat and bark covered wigwams were developed and employed practically

to the exclusion of all other forms of habitations. But on the plains,

and in the regions bordering the great buffalo ranges, the skin-covered

conical tipis predominated, although other forms were sometimes

constructed by the same people. The earth lodges as erected by certain

tribes of the Missouri Valley were the most interesting native

structures east of the Rocky Mountains, and these at once suggest the

_Rotundas_, or great council houses once built by the Cherokees and

Creeks east of the Mississippi.

In treating of the habitations and villages of the several tribes

references have been made, incidentally, to the manners and ways of life

of the people who once claimed and occupied so great a part of the

present United States.

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