CHAPTER X.

Arrival of Mr. Partarrieau from the Coast — Interview with Almamy

— Arrangements with, and Presents made to him — His false and

deceitful conduct — My Determination and Retreat from Boolibany

— Difficulties on the March — Want of Water, and breach of oath

on the part of our Guides — Enter Foota Toro — Difficulties

there — My March to, and Return from, Baquelle — Affair with

the Foolahs — My Captivity — Departure of the Party for Baquelle

— My disappointment on finding the Camp deserted — My own Return

to Baquelle.

On the 30th of April I received a letter from Mr. Partarrieau,

announcing his arrival at Balla, whence he could not move in

consequence of the loss of a great many of the camels, until

I should send some men and asses to his assistance. I therefore

despatched without delay eleven men with thirty of the latter, and,

having obtained from Almamy one of his nephews as a guide for them,

they left the camp at an early hour the following morning.

About nine o’clock that night, Almamy paid me a private visit, and,

after many congratulatory words on the safe arrival of my friend (as

he called him), said he wished to be informed whether the articles

I had promised to the late Almamy were to become his property or

that of Saada, who contested that he alone had a right to them. When

I had told him that it was to the Almamy of Bondoo I had promised

them, and to whom only I could give them, he took me by the hand,

and said that he then felt convinced I was really his friend, and he

should therefore forward my views in every way he could, adding that

if I remained two days in Bondoo after Mr. Partarrieau’s arrival,

it should be my own fault. This last speech however said nothing

more than if I satisfied his avarice he would be my friend; but to

me this was nothing new, for ever since I had entered the country

I found that those people were actuated by no other principle than

that of self-interest and ingratitude.

As I had found some difficulty in procuring a sufficient supply

of provisions at the capital, on the 3rd of May I sent a sergeant

and one man to Samba Contaye to purchase corn, rice, and cattle,

and went myself with four men to assist in bringing up the caravan

with Mr. Partarrieau. On the following morning I met them at Patako,

a small village about thirty miles WSW. from the capital, which place

we reached on the 6th at 9 P.M. During Mr. Partarrieau’s march

from the coast he experienced the kindest treatment from the kings

of Kayor and Joloff, and was accompanied by a chief from the latter.

On the morning of the 7th we waited on Almamy, whom we found seated

in a small store-room attended by only two of his slaves. After the

usual exchange of compliments, I informed him of Mr. Partarrieau’s

arrival, and that of the present I had promised to his predecessor,

which, together with one I purposed giving himself, I wished to

deliver without delay, and in a few days continue my journey, adding,

that I trusted he would now prove himself to be the friend he so

often professed; to which he answered that he was ready to forward

my views in any way I might require.

The Joloff chief then addressed Almamy, saying he was directed by

the Bourba Joloff to tell him, that in handing us over to his care

and protection he requested we might be treated in the same manner

by him (Almamy), as Mr. Partarrieau was by his master and Damel,

the king of Kayor, and at the same time to inform him that we were

the messengers of a very great white king, who had it in his power

to reward those handsomely who merited it from him, or to punish any

who should ill-treat his messengers, whose only object in visiting

Africa was the establishing of a friendly intercourse between the

two countries. In answer to this, Almamy made a long speech, which

he ended by promising that his conduct should be such towards us as

would merit not only the approbation of the white king, but of all

the surrounding chiefs of Africa.

Having told Almamy that I wished him to send persons to receive

the presents I intended giving him (which he promised to do without

delay), we returned to the camp. Those persons did not however arrive

till near midnight, when it was too late to begin such an affair,

particularly as I had determined that not an article should be

removed before I should be satisfied, by an agreement drawn up in

Arabic and signed by Almamy, that the assistance and protection I

might require, while in Bondoo and in the prosecution of my journey,

would be afforded.

It was not till the 9th that I could arrange with them the amount of

the presents and the form of agreement, when, the latter being signed

by Almamy and some of his chiefs, the former were delivered[20],

together with a handsome double barrelled gun, which was sent by

his Excellency Sir Charles Mac Carthy as a pledge of his esteem

for Almamy.

With this paper in my possession, and the hitherto apparent

inclination of Almamy to comply with its contents, I conceived that

nothing remained to prevent our departure, and therefore having

made every preparation necessary, I went (on the evening of the 10th

of May) to inform him that it was my wish to proceed the following

morning to Baquelle, where, with some assistance from the French,

in the way of paint, rope, &c., of which I was in want, to put my

baggage in a proper state to withstand the rains, I intended making

my final arrangements. But I was sadly disappointed when he told me

that he could not allow me to go there, as the people of that country,

although at peace with him, were not his friends. I endeavoured to no

purpose to convince him that in going there my only object was what

I had just stated, and not to interfere in the concerns of Bondoo,

where I had already been but too long detained.

From that day until the 21st, every means which I conceived at all

likely to obtain permission to proceed, were tried without effect;

presents were given to all the chiefs[21] unknown to each other, in

order to induce them to urge Almamy to compliance, and I even offered

to leave hostages in his hands for my return (after I had arranged

my baggage) to Boolibany, whence I would take my final departure for

the Niger. All would not do. The only thing he would listen to was

that of our immediately following a path in which we should not only

have to contend with a number of petty princes, all his friends and

in league with him to oppose our progress, but where it would have

been impossible to procure provisions, and extremely difficult to

travel, in consequence of the number of rivers to be crossed.

All this, added to his having assembled his army in front of our camp,

and prevented us for a whole day from drawing water from the wells,

and his having in every instance broken his promise, nay oath, bore

such convincing proofs of his hostile intentions that I at length

determined on endeavouring to gain my point by indirect means,

and therefore told him it was my intention to return to the coast

through the Foota Toro country.

My object in adopting this plan was the possibility that presented

itself of being able (when I had once left Bondoo) to change the

direction of march from west to north-east and thereby gain the

Senegal, and, by crossing it, both get out of the power of Almamy,

and reach Baquelle unmolested.

From Baquelle I could have travelled in safety to Karta, where I was

in hopes of meeting some people from Mr. Dochard, and of receiving

permission from Modiba, king of that country, to proceed to Sego.

In addition to Almamy’s other acts of injustice and falsehood, he

had given orders that the people, whom I had sent to Samba Contaye

to purchase provisions, should be arrested and put in irons, and I

had much difficulty indeed in obtaining their release.

We left Boolibany on the 22d May at half after six in the morning. We

were accompanied by Almamy and part of his suite as far as Lewa,

a village, near which we halted for the night.

Here again we were to experience the duplicity and falsehood of this

chief, who, not contented with the delays and inconveniences to which

he had already subjected us, would not now give us the guides he at

first named, and who were the only two of the princes we had found

worthy of confidence, but appointed two men whom we had never before

seen, and who (were we to judge from their appearance) were ready to

comply with their sovereign’s order in any way. When I remonstrated

on this further palpable breach of honour, he said that he could not

then dispense with the presence of two of his war-men (generals)

but would allow one of them to accompany the guides he had named,

and directed the other (who was the very man we wanted) to quit

our camp. This person, named Omar Moosa, a nephew of Almamy’s,

was so indignant at this peremptory order, that he told his royal

uncle he should not be ordered by him or any other man in Bondoo,

and would not leave our camp until he pleased, and then, coming to

our tent, told us to be cautious as to the path we took, for it was

Almamy’s instructions to the guides to conduct us into Upper Ferlo,

a province of Bondoo on the south-west frontier, so badly supplied

with water that the inhabitants were frequently obliged to leave it

during that time of the year: he also advised us not to move from

Lewa until Almamy should return to Boolibany, when all those who

accompanied him, and were attracted by the hopes of being able to

plunder us of something, would leave us. This timely information,

and the loss of nearly all our camels, induced me to remain at

Lewa until the morning of the 24th, having, the preceding night,

destroyed all the men’s old clothing, and furnished them with

new. Some musket-balls and other articles of little value, amongst

which were nearly all my own and Mr. Partarrieau’s clothes, were

also destroyed in order to lighten the baggage as much as possible.

Incredible as it may appear to a person unacquainted with those

people, it is equally true that Almamy, when about leaving us on

the evening of the 23d, came with all possible composure to wish

us a safe journey, and requested me to give him a small present,

which he could keep in remembrance of me. Such was the impudent and

teasing importunity of this man that he obtained one from me merely

to rid myself of such an unwelcome visitor. When gone, we found he

had made free with a snuff-box of Mr. Partarrieau’s which was laid

on the mat on which we were sitting: this, although of little value,

evinced a disposition on his part to turn his abilities in that way

to every possible advantage.

We left Lewa at six o’clock in the morning, and, having travelled

west over a dreadfully parched and uncultivated country for twelve

miles, we reached Giowele, a miserable village, at ten, where a

scanty supply of water was, by means of a large price, purchased

for ourselves and the animals.

At a late hour in the evening I called one of our new guides, named

Doka, to my tent, and, having drawn from him an acknowledgement

that he had received Almamy’s directions to conduct us by the

path leading into Upper Ferlo, I pointed out to him another lying

more northerly, through a village called Dindoody, whither, in

case he would consent to conduct us in safety, I would make him a

handsome present. He objected, on the ground that he feared the other

guide would not listen to it, but we told him to leave that to us,

which he did. Macca, who was one of those guides chosen by myself,

readily consented to our proposal, and, on the morning of the 25th,

he led us into a path in the very opposite direction from the one

pointed out for us. A march of eleven miles NW. brought us to the

village of Gwina, where we halted close to the wells, which supplied

us with excellent water without any difficulty.

Private Dohonoe, who had been affected with dysentery since his

arrival from the coast with Mr. Partarrieau, was so ill during the

last two days’ march as to be barely able to sit on horseback.

As we were about to move on the morning of the 26th, an armed party

of about forty men came running into our camp. They were met by our

guides, who conducted them to me, when their leader said they had

been sent by Almamy to ascertain the truth or falsehood of a report

which was in circulation of our having quarrelled with our guides,

and refused to follow the path appointed by him. We referred them

to Doka and Macca, who assured them the report was false. I did not

believe they were sent by Almamy, but I had strong reason to suppose

they were assembled by the guides with a view of deterring us from

following the path we were pursuing. I was the more certain of this

being the case from my having received information that they had

set on foot a false report of one of the princes having an army at

a short distance watching our movements. An account was brought us

in the afternoon by one of our own men (who had been at the village

and overheard some conversation), that it was the intention of the

men in this posse, headed by our guides, to attack us during the

night. Improbable as it appeared, I placed triple centinels, and

kept on foot myself the whole night, which we passed very quietly,

and, at half after six the following morning, moved forward to the

north. We had not proceeded, however, above three miles, when a

tornado came on so rapidly and violently from the ESE. that we had

scarcely time to secure the baggage by covering it with green leafy

boughs of trees. It continued raining nearly an hour and a half,

when, having cleared a little, we resumed our march to the west of

north for two hours; this brought us to a small miserable village

called Gari-Eli, where we halted for the night. Dohonoe was so ill

when we moved in the morning that he was unable to sit upright. I

was therefore obliged to leave him in care of the chief of Gwina,

with means of subsistence, and directions, in case of recovery,

to send him to Baquelle.

We had not been long at our bivouac, when another nephew of

Almamy’s, named Amady Samba, made his appearance, and said he was

sent by his uncle to enforce compliance with his orders respecting the

path, but to which I only answered that I would not pursue any path

but that I was then following. On this he went off apparently much

displeased, for which I cared the less—as I was determined not to

listen to the tales of those soi-disant messengers, who haunted our

march, merely in hopes of exacting something from us, or plundering

(if occasion presented itself) from our baggage.

We left Gari-Eli at half after six on the morning of the 28th, and

travelled ten miles north by east, over an extremely close country

to Bokey Guiley, a small village. There we halted for the night,

and had considerable difficulty in obtaining a supply of muddy water,

the only quality which the place afforded.

When loading the animals the following morning, Macca sent one of

his satellites to say that as he was ill and could not accompany

us if we moved; he requested us to remain at Bokey Guiley until

the following morning. As I was aware that this was an excuse

dictated by Amady Samba to detain us, so I refused to comply, and,

having sent Mr. Partarrieau to urge Macca’s coming on, we moved

forward at seven o’clock, but had not proceeded above a mile when

one of the men who accompanied Mr. Partarrieau came running in a

great hurry to let me know that the people of the village, at the

instigation of our guides, seemed inclined to oppose his following

the caravan. I immediately selected one sergeant and fifteen men,

and had proceeded about a quarter of a mile towards the village,

when I met the guides and Amady Samba, (and, in a few minutes after,

Mr. Partarrieau,) who informed me that many objections were made to

his joining me, in accomplishing which he had nearly come to blows

with the guides and villagers.

Shortly after this, a large bullock which had been bought at Gari-Eli,

and conducted since it left that place by a Foolah hired for the

purpose, having nearly killed one of our men, was ordered to be shot,

which was not effected until many shots had been fired at him. This

circumstance so trivial in itself was nearly the cause of very serious

consequences, as the men of the villages in the vicinity of our road

heard the shots, and, knowing that we had nearly fought with our

guides in the morning, thought that such was then actually the case,

and came running up from all quarters ready for action,—which they

were with difficulty prevented from commencing by the intercession

of Macca. Many of them, however, accompanied us to Dindoody, where

we arrived at noon, having travelled ten miles NNE.

Although the day was excessively hot, and both men and animals were

much in want of water, we were obliged to endure the privation,

having a well within a few yards of our bivouac; but this we were

not allowed to touch before seven o’clock in the evening, and,

having paid dearly for the indulgence, we found also, on returning

from the well to tie up the asses for the night, that two of them

had been stolen. Macca promised to have them restored, but we never

saw them afterwards.

It appeared to me that our guides were at the bottom of all this

hindrance from water and objections to the path, in which the

inhabitants of all the towns we passed through joined them, (but

particularly those of Dindoody, where we spent the whole of the 30th

in palaver with them), I conceived it better to make them a large

present[22] to induce their acting in compliance with our wishes,

to which they consented, binding themselves by an oath on the Koran,

to which, although little regard had been paid by Almamy, I trusted,

however, that they would remain faithful.

We therefore again set forward to the NE., and, in about two hours,

reached a small village called Loogoonoody, where we found that

the oaths of our guides were of as little avail as that of their

sovereign and his ministers, for we were again obliged to pay for

water before the inhabitants would allow us to approach their wells.

We were met here by two men who stated themselves to be messengers

sent by the chiefs of Foota Toro to conduct us into that country; but,

as the path they pointed out led too much to the west to answer our

purpose, we signified to them that it was our wish to proceed more

eastward, to a town called Gawde Bofê, where we proposed remaining

until a person whom we should send to consult with the chiefs of Toro

could return. To this they would not consent, and intimated that if

we did not comply with their wishes they had orders to oppose us.

As I was well aware of the difficulties we should experience in

travelling through that part of Foota, at a moment when the lawless

disposition of the inhabitants was completely divested of any

restraint by the existence of an interregnum of some duration, which

arose from dissensions among its chiefs, I thought it more adviseable

to move back from Bokey Guiley, where I should be certainly out of

the power at least of the people of Foota, who were even more to

be dreaded by us than those of Bondoo: and I was also in hopes that

my returning there, would by our appearing to have more confidence

in our Bondoo guides, induce them to act more honourably towards

us. I was however deceived, for, during the return to Bokey Guiley,

which was partly performed by night, we were robbed by them of two

asses with their loads and many small articles.

From the first to the fourth of June was spent in fruitless endeavours

to arrange matters with these two parties, who at length became

jealous of each other, and, by that means, afforded us an opportunity

of turning their differences to our advantage. As it was from the

Foota people we had most to apprehend, we proposed their conducting

us to Gowde Bofê, where we promised to remain until the return of

our messenger whom we intended sending from that place with them to

their chiefs; but told them that in case they did not consent, I would

destroy the whole of my baggage, and fight my way to Baquelle. This

had the desired effect; they acceded to our proposal, and the Bondoo

guides, finding that we would no longer listen to them, decamped.

Thereupon we left Bokey Guiley at half after five on the afternoon

of the 4th, and, having halted for the night at Dindoody, at eight

the following morning reached Loogoonoody, whence we despatched one

of our own men, accompanied by two of the Foota people, with a small

present[23] to the chiefs of that country, requesting them to appoint

two or more of their respectable personages to meet us at Gowde Bofê,

in order to make arrangements for our passing through their country;

(which in truth was not at all my intention), but I took that step in

order to make the Foota people suppose we really did purpose entering

their country, and thereby lull their suspicions about our going

to Baquelle. These people left us on the 5th, and on the following

morning at five o’clock, we moved in an easterly direction over a

parched and barren country until near ten, when we reached Siendoo, a

considerable town, where we had as usual much difficulty in obtaining

a supply of water, and where we were met by a strong detachment of

armed men, whose chief informed us that he was sent by Thierno Bayla

(the chief of Hourey, a district of Foota) to oblige us to take the

path to his own town. This I positively refused to comply with, and

told them if they felt inclined to carry their orders into effect

I was ready to receive them. They removed to a short distance from

our bivouac, and remained under arms all night, the greater part of

which was spent by us in endeavours to arrange matters amicably with

them, but which we found a most difficult affair; for what they at

one moment consented to, they refused the next. At length it was

settled that we should send one of our guides with one of them to

Goude Bofê, to know if the chief of that village would allow us to

remain there, as we had proposed, until the return of the messenger

from Foota. They returned at a late hour the same evening, 7th,

bringing for answer that Thierno Amadoo had consented to receive

us as friends at his village, where we might remain as long as we

wished. This did not appear to please the other chief and his party,

who went off grumbling.

I made small presents to all who interested themselves in our behalf

at Seindoo, and, having passed a comparatively quiet night, left

it at half after six on the morning of the 8th June, and reached

Looboogol at nine; but here we found such difficulty in obtaining

a very limited supply indeed of water the first day, that the men

had scarcely enough, and the animals none at all.

Thierno Bayla, the chief who had sent the party to Seindoo, came to

Looboogol on the 9th, attended by a large body of horse and foot. He

paid us a visit in the course of the day, and demanded to be made

acquainted with our intentions in entering the country. I told him

that having been deceived and plundered by Almamy and the princes

of Bondoo, I had decided on returning to the coast through Foota;

but, as there was no reigning Almamy in that country, I did not

think it safe to enter it without permission from the chiefs, to

whom I had despatched messengers, whose return I intended awaiting

at Gowde Bofê.

He objected to our going there, and expressed a wish that we should

accompany him to his own town, which lay about twenty-five miles in

the opposite direction to that we wished to pursue. On our refusal

he went off to the village, and, having directed that none of the

inhabitants should dare to supply us with a drop of water, stationed

several small parties at short distances round our camp, to enforce

the strictest compliance with this order, and to watch our movements.

A tornado with heavy rain, which would at any other time or under

any other circumstances have been an unpleasant visitor, was now the

thing most to be wished for, as it would have served the double office

of supplying us with water, and of driving from their posts those

parties, who, not supposing we would (or rather knowing we never did)

travel during the rain, would still have abandoned their posts, and

have gone to the village, in which case (having prepared every thing

to enable us to move in a moment), we would have loaded the animals,

and taken the direct road to Baquelle, which we computed to be distant

about forty miles. Judge then our disappointment when a tornado,

which bore every appearance of an approaching deluge of rain, blew

off without a drop. It was about six P.M. when our situation became

extremely unpleasant, not to say alarming. The animals had no water

since the 7th, and the men who had but a scanty supply on the 8th,

had none at all on that day, the 9th, and how to procure it without

proceeding to extremities alone remained to be decided upon. I had

too many invalids and weak animals to authorize my forcing my way

to Baquelle with such incumbrances and in absolute want of water;

and to destroy either the whole or even a proportion of my baggage

and animals, was an act which I conceived should be my last resource.

In this dilemma I determined on going myself to Baquelle, in order

to obtain twenty or thirty men from the French vessels then there,

and return with them immediately, either to force our way to that

place, or, by the appearance of such a reinforcement, to intimidate

the natives into compliance with my wishes. I left Mr. Partarrieau

in command of the party, with directions to endeavour by any means

to keep those people at arm’s length, and procure a supply of

water until my return, which I settled should be at a late hour

on the evening of the 12th. I was accompanied by two of the native

soldiers. We left the camp at half after seven, and, having passed

two villages during the night and another at day-break, arrived at

Tuabo, the capital of Lower Galam, at eight on the morning of the

10th, whence we proceeded without delay to Baquelle, which we found

to be more than fifty miles from Looboogol.

I met a most cordial reception from the French officers and merchants,

who, being informed of the object of my visit, said in the most

handsome manner that I should have every assistance in their power.

At Baquelle I met Isaaco[24], the same individual who accompanied

Mr. Park in his last attempt. He proposed accompanying me on my

return to Looboogol and bringing with him three of his own men, whom

I furnished with arms for the purpose. I received fifteen volunteers

from his Most Christian Majesty’s brig Argus, and five from the

Senegal Company’s vessel trading there, and, having hired eight

moors with eleven carrying bullocks for the transport of water, left

Baquelle in a boat at half after two in the evening of the 11th, and

landed at Jowar, a town of Galam, on the south bank of the Senegal,

at half after seven, having found much difficulty in passing the

shallows, which had then only eighteen inches water. The moors and

their bullocks crossed the river at Tuabo, and arrived about half

an hour before us.

We remained at Jowar until two o’clock on the morning of the 12th,

when, being favored by a fine moonlight night, and having loaded

the bullocks with soofras of water, we commenced our march to the

west of south until daylight, when we passed two small villages,

and soon after arrived in sight of Gowde Bofê, where Isaaco (to whom

being lame I lent my horse) proposed going to gain some information

with respect to Mr. Partarrieau’s movements, and give water to the

horse. I pointed out to him the improbability of his again finding

us, as we did not pursue the beaten path, but he assured me he could,

as he knew all that country well.

At half after nine we passed the village of Gangele, and soon entered

a wood which I knew to be the same I had traversed the evening I

left the camp, and which was not more by my reckoning than three or

four miles from us. It was then noon, and exceedingly hot, but as, by

continuing our march, we should reach the camp at too early an hour,

we halted in the woods, and sent two men back to Gangele to procure

some water, and, if possible, a guide to conduct us by the shortest

path to the camp. We waited their return with impatience until half

after three, when the atmosphere to the east became overspread,

and bearing every appearance of an approaching tornado. I moved

back slowly towards the village, with the hope of meeting them, but

the tornado came on with such rapidity and violence, that all was

soon complete darkness, and the path, which was previously not very

distinctly marked, now became imperceptible. We continued marching

east for some time without meeting the men, to whom I began to fear

something unpleasant had happened; but nevertheless we marched

on in hopes of meeting them as long as we could perceive our way

by the compass. During the violence of the rain, four of the men

with the moors, and three bullocks, separated themselves from the

remainder of the party, and, although I fired several shots as soon

as I discovered they were not with us, I did not again see them.

It being quite dark at eight o’clock, we halted in the woods

and lighted a fire, at which we spent the night, and half dried

our clothes which were completely drenched with the rain; and at

daylight the following morning again moved forward to the east,

and in about an hour heard the lowing of cattle in that direction;

fifteen minutes more brought us clear of the wood, when we perceived

a village at a short distance. On our arrival at it we were informed

that Mr. Partarrieau had removed from Looboogol to a village about

four miles from where we then were.

Having procured a guide we moved on at a smart pace, and soon arrived

in front of the village, where were assembled a number of armed men

apparently waiting our arrival; for on our approaching them, they

desired us to keep off, and would have proceeded to force had not

our guide told them our intentions were good. One of the villagers,

apparently a chief, then came forward, and, offering me his hand,

invited me to the shade of a tree, where we were no sooner arrived

than surrounded by a crowd of armed men, who without further ceremony

attempted to tear the clothes off my men’s backs, and their arms

out of their hands. This sort of treatment was too rough to be borne

with sang froid. My men, eleven in number, therefore made some

resistance, and removed in a body to a short distance from where

I was standing, but had scarcely moved when the war-cry was set up

by the Foolahs, and a fire of musquetry opened by them on my men,

whose arms were almost useless from the rain of the preceding night,

and consequently they were unable to make the resistance they might

otherwise have done. Three of them were already wounded, as were

three of the Foolahs, when Thierno Bayla arrived from the village and

offering me his hand said, that if I would go quietly with him, no

one should molest me. I complied, as resistance would have been vain;

but notwithstanding all he could say or do, the rabble endeavoured to

tear my clothes from my back, and my sword from my side. Bayla to no

purpose endeavoured to keep them off. They were become so outrageous,

that three of them snapped their guns at me, but, from the careless

manner in which they did it, I doubted their being loaded.

On entering the town, we were conducted into a hut, and a man placed

at the door to keep off the crowd. By that time Mr. Partarrieau had

been informed of what had taken place, and came to the hut where we

were. He informed me that Isaaco had arrived only the day before,

and, having informed Bayla that I was coming with an army, and left

my horse in his hands, returned to Baquelle. He next told me that he

had agreed with Bayla to be allowed to go to the village of Fadgar,

about ten miles from Gowde Bofê, and there await the return of our

messengers from Foota. The first thing however to be thought of was

my own release and that of the men with me, and for that purpose

Bayla accompanied Mr. Partarrieau to the camp, where it was settled

that we should be permitted to go that evening or the next morning,

and that all the things taken from me or the men would be restored

on our arrival at Fadgar.

We left our prison at seven in the morning of the 14th, as I supposed

to go to our camp, but were not a little surprised at finding that

it was not the intention of Bayla to permit our doing so. I demanded

of him the fulfilment of his promise, but the only answer I received

was an order to mount a miserable looking horse, held by one of his

followers. To refuse would have been useless. Bayla was mounted on

mine, and attended by about one hundred armed men. We moved towards

the camp, where all were ready to move, and apparently waiting our

arrival; but we were not allowed to join them. Having marched at

a very smart pace until two P.M., we reached a large straggling

village, which on enquiry I found to be called Samba Jamangele,

and distant twelve miles west of Fadgar, the place agreed on,

and whither Mr. Partarrieau was gone. This annoyed me a little,

but there was now no remedy, except patiently awaiting the issue.

On our approach to the village, we were met by the women and children,

who came forth in hundreds to welcome the return of their husbands,

fathers, brothers, &c. Many of the young men and boys, who had

never apparently seen a white man before, approached me, and after

examining my face with evident surprise and fear, favoured me with

the epithets of ‘unbeliever’, ‘son of a hog’, ‘hater of God’, and

‘offspring of an unlawful connexion’. One old woman, apparently very

short-sighted, and no doubt mistaking me for one of the people of the

village, approached my horse’s side, and was in the act of giving me

her hand, when she perceived mine to be white, and, shrieking, she

almost fell to the ground with fright.

Bayla, who had gone to Fadgar with Mr. Partarrieau, called in

the afternoon, and told me that he would call again the following

morning, and allow me to return with my men to our camp. But his

promises were made to be broken; I did not see him until the 16th,

when he appointed a person to conduct us to Fadgar.

I left Samba Jamangele at two o’clock on the morning of the 17th

of June, and arrived at the camp at half after five, which, to my

astonishment, I found deserted. The tents were standing, and some

weak asses, and other articles which would necessarily impede their

march, were left behind.

The idea that they had gone for Baquelle, and what place they

must at that hour have been near, could alone compensate for the

disappointment I felt at their unexpected absence.

Bayla’s men, who appeared more taken up with searching the tents,

and every thing else they could lay their hands on, in hopes of

finding money, as they call it, than with the departure of the

mission, wished me to follow Mr. Partarrieau’s steps, which I

would willingly have done could I have prevailed on even one of

them to accompany me. But the hope they entertained of finding some

valuables in the camp, was too sanguine to admit of their leaving

it; in consequence of which I declined doing so, as I was not only

ignorant of the path, but aware that the inhabitants of the first

village I might come to, finding me unattended by any of Bayla’s

people, would stop me, and most probably treat me worse than he had

done. I therefore proposed our immediate return to Samba Jamangele,

where I should endeavour so to arrange matters with Bayla, as to

obtain from him permission to proceed, and guides to conduct me

to Baquelle.

It was some time before I could prevail on these people to return

with me, they were so absorbed in their work of plunder, but that,

not turning out as well as they expected, they gave up with much

apparent disappointment.

On our return to Samba Jamangele, a man was sent to acquaint Bayla

with what had taken place, and to request, at my desire, that he would

come without delay to arrange matters for my departure and that of

my men. He called on me in the evening on his return from Fadgar,

whither he had gone to secure such things as were left behind by

Mr. Partarrieau, and promised that he would appoint people to conduct

us on the following morning to Baquelle, where he had been told,

that Mr. Partarrieau with the whole party had arrived in safety.

In this, as in all other instances of promises made by this man,

I was disappointed, but to which, from its almost daily occurrence,

I was become nearly insensible.

I saw nothing of him until a very late hour on the night of the 20th

June, when, by means of a small present of two gold rings which I had

with me, and the promise of a few other things by the return of the

man he should send with me to Baquelle, I induced him to name a person

for that purpose, and to fix the following morning for our departure.

FOOTNOTES:

[Footnote 20: For the form of agreement and amount of presents,

see Appendix, Articles 6 and 7.]

[Footnote 21: Article 7, Appendix.]

[Footnote 22: Article 9, Appendix.]

[Footnote 23: Article 10, Appendix.]

[Footnote 24: Properly called Siacco.]

Travels in Western Africa, in the years 1818, 19, 20, and 21, from the river Gambia, through Woolli, Bondoo, Galam, Kasson, Kaarta, and Foolidoo, to the river Niger · 第 10 / 13 章