=TRAVELS=
IN
=WESTERN AFRICA,=
ETC.
G. WOODFALL, ANGEL COURT, SKINNER STREET, LONDON.
[Illustration: W. Gray del.
BOKARI THE KARTAN GUIDE.
_Published Feb. 1825. by John Murray, London._]
[Illustration: MAP of the ROUTES pursued by the Expeditions under
MAJORS PEDDIE AND GRAY.
_Published as the act directs, March 15th. 1825. by John Murray
Albemarle Street, London._
_J. Walker Sculpt._]
=TRAVELS=
IN
=WESTERN AFRICA,=
IN THE YEARS 1818, 19, 20, AND 21,
FROM THE
RIVER GAMBIA, THROUGH WOOLLI, BONDOO, GALAM,
KASSON, KAARTA, AND
FOOLIDOO, TO THE RIVER NIGER.
BY
MAJOR WILLIAM GRAY,
AND THE LATE
STAFF SURGEON DOCHARD.
WITH A MAP, DRAWINGS, AND COSTUMES, ILLUSTRATIVE
OF THOSE COUNTRIES.
Quòd si deficiant vires, audacia certè
Laus erit in magnis, et voluisse sat est.
PROP.
LONDON:
JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET
MDCCCXXV.
WITH SENTIMENTS OF THE HIGHEST RESPECT
AND THE MOST SINCERE GRATITUDE,
THE AUTHOR OF THE FOLLOWING PAGES
HAS, BY PERMISSION, DEDICATED THEM
TO THE
RIGHT HON. THE EARL BATHURST,
HIS MAJESTY’S PRINCIPAL SECRETARY OF STATE
FOR THE COLONIES.
=PREFACE.=
In offering to the public the following pages, it may be necessary to
state the motives which operated to my acceptance of that important
command, which it will be their business to disclose. Though not born
in the camp, nor altogether educated in the field, I have been early
taught in that frankness which generally characterises the soldier,
and, I trust, it will be found that, in all I describe, I have never
deviated from strictly acting on that honourable and faithful basis.
I had reached the shores of Africa, in my tour of service, well
remembering on my passage the labours and researches of the informed
and the brave who perished in the exalted struggle of benefiting their
country and the benighted Africans; while, at the same time, I could
not help reflecting on the disappointing results which often attend the
best directed human exertions. The brave and the scientific were gone;
their country consecrated their labours, though partially abortive; and
the enterprising mind felt no alarm in tracing their progress, while a
chance remained of redeeming their fate by more successful exertions.
Greece and Rome alternately fought and conquered, and were subdued by
arms, the short summary of most nations’ history, while it remained
for the British Government alone to extend their empire through the
enlightened agency of moral sway, of civil institutes, and Christian
regulations, and convey to the hapless, the neglected, and the
enslaved, the highest blessings which can dignify, improve, or adorn
man.
Warmed with those feelings, I felt an honourable pride in being
entrusted with a command to explore the uncultivated regions of Western
Africa. It was a task of peril, but the measure of danger was the
measure of honour; and with a strong distrust of my own capacity I
accepted the office of conducting the expedition. As soon as I became
acquainted with its objects, it may be naturally supposed that I
felt some uneasiness; but such were the measures taken by a superior
commander, _now no more_, that any insufficiency on my part was
compensated by the wisdom of a gallant and enlightened officer. The
objects of the mission were not the mere acquisition of territory, or
the unfair advantage of commerce; they were the improvement of science,
the enlargement of trade, and the consequent diffusion of increased
happiness to the African population. The sceptic in religion, and the
would-be renovator of politics, may think differently on this subject;
but every rational individual must feel that British life, British
talent, and British treasure, would not be employed in such a quarter
if there were not every wish to benefit and improve the condition of
our degraded fellow creatures.
In undertaking this mission I was not employed to create a fabulous
history, or describe romantic scenery; I was employed to glean and
collect facts; to effect discovery when it was possible; to note down
nothing which might not lead to some useful result; and, in the end,
to draw such honest inferences as will, I humbly venture to trust, be
found throughout these pages.
With the wisdom of all the previous plans adopted in exploring Western
Africa I have nothing to do, and for that in which I was engaged, I
only feel myself responsible as far as the resources placed within my
reach. A difficult duty was assigned me; I attempted its execution;
and, be the results satisfactory or not, I can safely say that my best
exertions were in no case wanting to meet the views of those high
authorities at home and abroad who confided its performance to me. If
I have partially failed, the failure is attributable to circumstances,
which will be fully developed in the sequel. I shall say nothing
of my sufferings and privations; but after all I have witnessed, I
feel deeply impressed with the generous sentiments and wishes of his
Majesty’s Government towards all who need their aid, and I entertain a
fervent hope that to future travellers in Africa my humble endeavours
may prove a source of more ample success than it has fallen to my lot
to achieve.
I cannot conclude, without regretting the premature death of my friend
and companion Staff Surgeon Dochard, who but a few months after my
return from Africa, fell a victim to the consequences of the sufferings
and privations he endured on the missions under the command of Major
Peddie, Captain Campbell, and myself. I particularly felt the want of
that assistance in preparing our several notes for the press, which he
was so fully able to afford me. The importance of his notes have not,
however, been altogether lost, though they are still deprived of much
of that value which his reconsideration would no doubt have imparted
to them. Such as he left them, they are faithfully preserved, and have
been used in the narrative with the same attention as my own.
W. GRAY, MAJOR.
=CONTENTS.=
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Arrival of the Expedition at Senegal — Delay there — A
Messenger despatched to Sego — Departure from Senegal, and
Arrival at the Rio Nunez — Town of Tallabunchia — Major
Peddie’s Death — Sickness of the Men and Officers — Departure
from Robugga — Difficulties on the March — Arrival at the 1
Panjetta.
CHAPTER II.
Halt at the Panjetta — Return of Messengers sent to the
Capital — His Majesty’s Answer — Great Scarcity of Provisions
— Another Messenger sent, with Presents to the King — Captain
Campbell’s interview with Omerhoo Kano — Reports about the
Intentions of the Expedition — Captain Campbell goes to see
the King — Arrival of the Messenger from Sego — Captain
Campbell’s Return — No satisfactory Answer — Illness of the
Officers — Lieutenant Stokoe and Mr. Kummer sent to the Coast
— Captain Campbell decides on retracing his steps — Departure
from the Panjetta — Arrival at Kakundy — Death of Captain
Campbell — Departure for, and Arrival at Sierra Leone —
Description of Foota Jallon. 25
CHAPTER III.
Major Gray takes the Command — Departure from Sierra Leone
— Arrival at Bathurst St. Mary’s — Occurrences there —
Departure for, and Arrival at Kayaye — Description of a
tribe of wandering Foolahs — Description of Kayaye, the
surrounding Country, and Inhabitants — Their Amusements,
&c. — Visit to Katoba — The King’s Visit to us — Arrival of
Camels from Senegal — Our Guide’s proposal respecting the path
— My Decision, and Reasons — Fatality among our Animals —
Arrival of Mr. Partarrieau from St. Mary’s — Arrangements for 43
Departure.
CHAPTER IV.
The Expedition leaves Kayaye — Difficulty in procuring Water
at Jaroomy — Arrival and Halt at Coonting — Description of
that Town and surrounding Country — Civility of the Chief
— Departure from Coonting — Deaths among the Animals, and
difficulty of procuring Carriers — Arrival at the Wallea Creek
— Attempt of some People to stop us — Pass the Creek — Cane
Bridge — Attempt at Murder by one of our native Civilians,
and his Desertion — Enter the Kingdom of Woolli — Arrival at
Madina, the Capital — Transactions and difficulties there
— Description of the Town, and the Mumbo Jumbo Ceremony —
Departure from Madina, and theft by the Natives — Arrival at
Kussaye. 63
CHAPTER V.
Departure from Kussaye — Pass through the Simbani Woods —
Loss of Camels — Ruins of Muntobe — Leave Muntobe — Arrive
at Sansanding — Halt there — Our Woolli guides leave us —
Discharge of Corporal Harrop — Arrival at Sabee, the first
Town of Bondoo — Loss of Animals — Opposition on the part of
our Guides to our moving thence — Arrival at Loonchea — Death
of the Camels — Supply of provisions from Almamy — Mr. Dochard
sent in advance with a present to Almamy — Departure from
Loonchea — Arrival at Dachadoonga — Difficulty and delay in
carrying forward the Baggage — Description of the Red Water,
and its use — Arrival at Goodeerri — Mr. Dochard returns from
the Capital — Arrival of Almamy’s eldest Son — Transactions
with Almamy and difficulty in arranging matters with him
— Departure from Goodeerri, and arrival at Boolibany, the
Capital of Bondoo. 94
CHAPTER VI.
Description of Boolibany — Delays and Disappointments there
— Scarcity of Provisions — Death of Private Pickard — My
decision of passing the rains in the Country, and Departure
for Samba Contaye to select a position for winter quarters —
Arrival of the Expedition from Boolibany — Mr. Pilkington and
men left there sick — Death of Lieutenant Burton, and Sickness
of the men — Preparations for Mr. Dochard’s Departure for Sego
— Almamy’s Arrival near our Camp — Difficulties about the
Guide — Mr. Dochard’s Departure — The Object of his Embassy
— Mr. Partarrieau’s Departure for the Coast — Mr. Nelson’s
weak state — A regular Market established — Mr. Pilkington’s
Arrival from the Capital — Mr. Nelson’s Death — My own
Indisposition — Deaths among the Men — Extraordinary Ceremony
at the Killing of a Lioness — Lion’s Attack on the Horse —
Account from Mr. Dochard — Return of the Messengers — Almamy’s
unjust Conduct, and its Results. 124
CHAPTER VII.
Unfortunate Affair at Samba Contaye — Almamy’s Decision
— Purchase of a Slave — Arrival of the French Expedition
at Galam — Mr. Pilkington’s determination of leaving the
Mission — His Departure for the Coast — Visit to the Senegal
— Conversation with Almamy — Messenger sent to Mr. Dochard —
Fires at the Camp — Death of Almamy Amady. 157
CHAPTER VIII.
Description of Bondoo — Extent — Boundaries — Face of the
Country — Productions — Commerce — Manufactures — Government
— Revenues — Religion, its influence on the Inhabitants —
Their Description, Dress, and Manner of Living — Military
Equipments — Force — Mode of Warfare — Cause of War with
Kaarta — Almamy’s sanguinary Conduct — Attack of the Kaartans
on Boolibany. 179
CHAPTER IX.
Message from Almamy — My Visit to Boolibany — Subject of
Interview with him — His hostile Conduct and peremptory demand
for my leaving Samba Contaye — The Necessity of my Compliance
— Return to the Camp accompanied by an Escort — Preparations
for the March — Departure for Boolibany — Arrival there —
Almamy endeavours to make us enter the Town — My Refusal, and
Selection of a Position for the Camp — Return of my first
Messenger to Mr. Dochard — His Misfortune and Failure — False
Alarm at the Capital, and its Consequences — Indecision of
Almamy and the Chiefs. 208
CHAPTER X.
Arrival of Mr. Partarrieau from the Coast — Interview with
Almamy — Arrangements with, and Presents made to him — His
false and deceitful Conduct — My determination and Retreat
from Boolibany — Difficulties on the March — Want of Water,
and breach of oath on the part of our Guides — Enter Foota
Toro — Difficulties there — My March to, and Return from
Baquelle — Affair with the Foolahs — My Captivity — Departure
of the Party for Baquelle — My disappointment on finding the
Camp deserted — My own Return to Baquelle. 219
CHAPTER XI.
Description of the Plain of Hourey — Occurrences there —
Departure and Arrival at Baquelle — Unfavourable Accounts from
Mr. Dochard — Kingdom of Galam. 248
CHAPTER XII.
Report of Mr. Dochard’s Arrival in Kaarta — My Departure for
St. Joseph, and Meeting with Mr. D. — Return to Baquelle —
Messenger sent to Sego — Arrival of Fleet from St. Louis — Mr.
D.’s Return to the Coast, and my final Determination — Visit
to St. Joseph — Conduct of Almamy Bondoo — Return from St.
Joseph — State of Affairs at Baquelle — Departure from thence
— Delay at St. Joseph — Assembly of Chiefs, &c. &c. 271
CHAPTER XIII.
Retreat from Kaarta — Difficulties and Annoyances there —
Arrival at Fort St. Joseph — Delay and Occurrences at Baquelle
— Return to the Coast — Arrival at Sierra Leone — Visit to the
captured Negro Establishments 323
CONCLUSION 337
APPENDIX 365
PLATES.
PAGE
Frontispiece. Portrait of Bokari the Kartan Guide.
1. Hut at Tallabunchia 5
2. Swinging Bridge over the Tingalinta 12
3. Wandering Foolah 49
4. Kongcorong, and Kaartan ceremonial dress 56
5. Cane Bridge over the Wallia creek 73
6. Madina, capital of Woolli 80
7. Boolibany—Capital of Bondoo 125
8. Mosque and Place of Assembly at Galam 282
9. Musical Instruments 301
Map to face title-page.
Botanical drawings after page 396.
N. B. For the nature and amount of presents, see Appendix.
* * * * *
ERRATA.
Page
26 For Tumbo _read_ Teembo.
75 — Sindey _read_ Jindey.
77 — Somkeys _read_ Sonikeys.
87 — Mausafarra _read_ Mansafarra.
103 — 85° 22′ 6″. &c. _read_ 14° 10′ 58″. Thermometer
in shade 100°.
235 — Thurno _read_ Thierno.
264 — Falume _read_ Fa-lemme.
=TRAVELS IN AFRICA,=
ETC.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
Arrival of the Expedition at Senegal — Delay there — A Messenger
despatched to Sego — Departure from Senegal, and Arrival at the
Rio Nunez — Town of Tallabunchia — Major Peddie’s Death —
Sickness of the Men and Officers — Departure from Robugga —
Difficulties on the March — Arrival at the Panjetta.
It is no doubt in the recollection of many of my readers, that
an expedition destined to explore the interior of Africa, from its
western coast to the river Niger, the course and termination of which
was its ultimate, and indeed grand object, left England in the latter
end of 1815, under the command of Brevet-Major Peddie, of the 12th
Foot, having with him Captain Campbell, of the Royal Staff Corps,
and Staff-Surgeon Cowdrey; the latter, an officer who had some years
before explored part of the country in the vicinity of the Cape of
Good Hope, and all three fully qualified to the importance of the
service entrusted to their care.
On their arrival at Senegal in the month of November, 1815, so many
obstacles presented themselves to the immediate departure of the
expedition for the interior, that Major Peddie, having proceeded to
Sierra Leone for the purpose of consulting with his Excellency the
Governor, decided on remaining at Senegal until the ensuing year.
They had not been long there, when Staff-Surgeon Cowdrey took ill,
and in a few days fell a victim to the climate, much regretted by
his brother officers, who were thus left without a medical assistant,
and deprived not only of his society, but of his invaluable services
as a naturalist and astronomer.
To fill the situation thus left vacant, at least in the capacity of
a medical officer, I was applied to by Major Peddie; and although
I felt that I possessed few of the qualifications requisite to the
discharge of the duties of so important a situation, I nevertheless
accepted the offer, with a determination that no exertion should
be wanting on my part to forward the services of the expedition,
which I joined at Senegal, in February, 1816.
Major Peddie’s first step was to despatch a messenger with a letter
to the king of Sego, informing him of our intention to visit him,
and begging he would send some of his chiefs to Senegal, to conduct
us into his territories. The person employed, whose name was Lamina,
was a native of Sego, and promised to return with the king’s answer
in three months.
Captain Campbell went to Sierra Leone in March, 1816, for the
purpose of acquiring information respecting the path through Foota
Jallon, and on his return so strongly urged Major Peddie to enter
the country for the interior from the Rio Nunez, that he decided on
doing so, and fixed the middle of November for their departure from
Senegal. The interim was employed in collecting information respecting
the countries through which we were to travel, and selecting from
the regiment serving on the coast, a detachment of non-commissioned
officers and men fitted to the peculiarity of such a service, and
purchasing animals for the transport of the baggage.
All these preparations being completed, we embarked on board four
vessels, hired for the purpose, and sailed from Senegal on the 17th
of November, 1816.
The expedition was then composed of Major Peddie, Captain Campbell,
Mr. Adolphus Kummer, a German, as naturalist, Mr. Partarrieau, a
native of Senegal (possessing considerable knowledge of the Arabic
and Moorish languages, with some of the native African tongues), and
myself, having with us a party of soldiers and civilians, amounting
to 100 individuals, and a train of 200 animals. We called at Goree,
where we remained until the 26th, when being joined by a vessel from
the Cape de Verde Islands, having on board some horses and mules
for our use, we proceeded and arrived, after a tedious passage
of sixteen days, at Kakundy, a factory belonging to a Mr. Pearce,
on the left bank of the Rio Nunez.
While waiting for the tide at the mouth of that river, we visited
a small island formed by the alluvial matter brought down with
the stream, and collected by a ridge of rocks which run nearly
across its embouchure. It is called Sandy Island, from its soil
being almost wholly composed of that substance. It is about a mile
in length, and from a quarter to half a mile in breadth, having a
gentle rise towards the centre, where it is covered by a grove of
palm trees. We met on it a party of about twenty of the Bagoo tribe,
who had come thither to collect palm wine, for the celebration of
a mournful ceremony over one of their chiefs, who had died a short
time before. At a little distance from the spot where we met them,
there is an arbour, on approaching which we were stopped, and told
the place was sacred, as it contained their idols; of those we could
not obtain even an indistinct view.
Tallabunchia, which we also visited, is situated on the north bank
of the river, about four miles above Sandy Island, in a plain,
beautifully shaded with lofty palm trees, and a great profusion
of orange, lime, plantain, and bananas. The town is straggling and
irregular, and contains about 200 inhabitants. The houses are about
sixteen feet high, and divided, by a partition of split cane, into
two apartments, one of which serves as a store for their rice,
&c. and the other for a dwelling. The men are strong and well
formed, but of an extremely savage appearance; their whole apparel
consists of a fathom of cotton cloth wrapped round their waists;
they practise cutting the incisor teeth and tattooing the breasts
and arms; holes are pierced through the whole circle of the ear,
in which are inserted bits of a coarse kind of grass. The dress of
the women is still less decent or becoming; a strip of cotton bound
round the loins, in the shape of what surgeons call a T bandage,
is their only covering; a band of twisted grass round the upper
parts of the thigh, one immediately above, and another below the
knee, with one over the ankle, constituted the female ornaments. The
children were quite naked, and had large copper rings hanging from
the cartilage of the nose.
[Illustration: A NATIVE’S HUT AT TALABUNCHIA.]
[Illustration: W. Gray del.
FAC SIMILE OF DRAWING ON THE WALLS OF THE HUT.
_Published Feb. 1825. by John Murray, London._]
On the morning of the 14th, Captain Campbell, who had again proceeded
to Sierra Leone, on matters connected with the service, joined us
at Kakundy, where the whole of the men, animals, and baggage were
landed. We encamped on an elevated piece of ground, cleared for the
purpose, and overlooking the factory. There sickness soon began to
prevail amongst the Europeans, few of whom escaped without one or two
attacks of fever, and, such was their weak state, that, on the 24th
of December, it was thought expedient to remove them about four miles
east of Kakundy, to Robugga, a factory belonging to a Mr. Bateman,
who politely gave up his house for their accommodation. On that
day Major Peddie was attacked with violent fever, from which he
experienced little relief until the morning of the 1st of January,
1817, when, thinking himself better, he left his bed, but was soon
obliged to resume it, and in a few hours breathed his last.
This was a sad commencement of the new year, and the melancholy event
cast a heavy gloom on the minds of every individual connected with
the expedition. It made so deep an impression on some, that it was
with much difficulty they could be prevailed on not to abandon the
enterprise. Never was a man more sincerely beloved, nor more truly
regretted by all who knew him. His remains were deposited, amidst
the heartfelt regrets of his friends and companions, on the following
day, in the court-yard of Mr. Bateman, under the shade of two orange
trees; and an appropriate epitaph, written by Captain Campbell,
and carved on a slab of native mahogany, was placed on his grave.
The day previous to his death, the expedition was joined by Lieutenant
Stokoe, of the Royal Navy, and Hospital-assistant Nelson. They
were accompanied by Lieutenant M‘Rae, of the Royal African Corps,
and Thomas Buckle, Esq.[1]; the latter was sent by his Excellency,
Sir Charles M‘Carthy, to afford every facility to our departure
from Kakundy, and was the bearer of presents to Mr. Pearce (the
nominal king of Kakundy having no power whatever in the country),
without consulting whom nothing is done in that river even by the
European traders.
Lieutenant M‘Rae, hearing on his arrival of Major Peddie’s
illness, and the little hope we entertained of his recovery, came
forward with the most disinterested zeal, and told Captain Campbell
that if his services were likely to be of any use to the expedition,
he would readily accompany it; indeed he left Sierra Leone partly
with that intention: and notwithstanding the great want of officers
in that garrison at the time, and that he filled some very important
situations, his Excellency, with that alacrity he had all along
shewn to comply with whatever was calculated to forward the views
of the expedition, most willingly agreed to his proceeding, should
his services be required. After Major Peddie’s death, they were
considered very acceptable, and he was immediately added to our
number. He did not, however, long survive our lamented commander;
he was attacked with fever, for the first time since his arrival
on the coast, on the 13th of January, and died on the 21st, deeply
regretted by us all.
The convalescents, and in which condition were nearly all the
Europeans, being in a very debilitated state, were moved forward,
under the care of Mr. Nelson, to the borders of the Foota country,
on the Tingalinta river, whence they might be easily sent back were
they not sufficiently recovered by the time the whole might have
moved forward.
We left Robugga in the afternoon of the 1st of February, and after
a most fatiguing march of four hours reached Harrimakona, a small
slave village belonging to a Mandingo chief, named Kirra Mahomadoo,
who lives near Kakundy.
On the morning of the 2d, Lieutenant Stokoe was added to the sick
list, and being unable to render any assistance, rode forward to the
Tingalinta. We left Harrimakona at two, P.M. and got on tolerably well
until we arrived at a difficult pass in a wood, where those in front
disturbed a swarm of bees, which made so violent an attack on both
men and animals, that all were thrown into confusion. On my being made
acquainted with the cause, I considered it a very frivolous excuse for
allowing the horses and asses to run about in all directions, throwing
off their loads; and was reprimanding the men for their carelessness,
when I was attacked by so dense a swarm of those insects, that I was
obliged to retreat, and suffer the mortification of exhibiting myself
in the same predicament with those I had just been reproving. It was
sunset before the bees dispersed, or we could collect the animals,
many of whom suffered severely, from the bees getting into their
eyes, ears, and nostrils; one of our best horses died on the spot,
and some of the asses were unable to rise from the ground. We reached
the Changêballê stream at nine o’clock, but the darkness of the
night, and the difficulty of the passage prevented our crossing.
From the number of animals stung by the bees on the 2d, we were in
a bad state for travelling on the morning of the 3rd; the third and
fourth divisions, however, moved forward to the Tingalinta, leaving
the second and first, which arrived about noon from Robugga, at the
Changêballê, where we found it necessary to halt, until the arrival
of some animals from the divisions in advance enabled us to move,
in the cool of the evening, to the Pompo stream, where we passed
the night.
The following morning, we started at eight, and at ten reached
a fine stream, the Falgori, which we were more than an hour in
crossing. The difficulty did not arise from the depth of water, but
from the acclivity of the hill on the east bank, up which some of the
animals could not carry their loads without the assistance of two
men. After passing this hill we entered a barren rocky waste, over
which we travelled, for nearly twelve miles, without meeting water.
We were here met by Mahomedoo Mariama, a messenger sent by Major
Peddie from Senegal in the preceding August, with a letter to the
Almamy or king of Teembo. He was accompanied by Abdul Hamed, one
of Almamy’s brothers, and three other chiefs, with their wives
and attendants. We reached the Tingalinta village at four, P.M. and
encamped for the night on the east side of a hill overlooking the
river. The men were all extremely fatigued, and, although we had
only travelled thirty miles, we had all had four days’ hard work,
in consequence of the difficulties of the path, and the accidents
among our animals. The general appearance of the country we travelled
over was extremely barren, and our course south-east. We found that
the convalescents sent forward to the Tingalinta with Mr. Nelson,
were still in a very weak state, and the scarcity of rice under which
we laboured, tended to keep them so. We were in hourly expectation,
however, of a supply from Kakundy. A little milk was all we could
procure at the village which takes its name from the river, and
contains about 100 inhabitants, principally slaves, belonging to
Mr. Pearce, who has allowed them to settle there for the purpose of
cultivation, and to keep up an intercourse with Foota Jallon. The
rice, to the amount of ten men’s loads [ten cwts.], arrived on the
8th, and eight of those men, natives of the neighbourhood of Kakundy,
were engaged to carry loads to Laby.
On the morning of the 9th, Abdul Hamed informed Captain Campbell it
was Almamy’s orders, that a white man should be sent on in advance
to Teembo, to explain to him the object we had in view in entering
his dominions, and at the same time forbidding our nearer approach
until he should be perfectly satisfied on that subject. I took the
opportunity of offering my services to go with an interpreter, to make
any arrangements with that chief which might be thought necessary,
but Captain Campbell did not conceive it requisite to send an officer;
and, therefore, despatched one of our native serjeants[2], who had
been before employed by the governor of Sierra Leone on similar
occasions. He left us on the 10th of February, and was accompanied
by Abou Baccary, one of the princes in Abdul Hamed’s train.
In the evening, the animals and baggage were removed across the
Tingalinta, which, at that place is about 110 feet wide and from
two to three deep, with a bottom of small round pebbles. At a little
distance below the ford was a swinging bridge, composed of cane and
bark ropes, by which it was attached, at about twenty-four feet above
the water, to the branches of the trees which grew on the banks,
and afforded during the rainy season and periodical floods, a safe,
though apparently slight and tottering, passage for people on foot.
[Illustration: W. Gray del.
SWINGING BRIDGE OVER THE TINGALINTA.
_Published Feb. 1825. by John Murray, London._]
We were in motion at three o’clock on the morning of the 12th, but
the Kakundy people, who had been hired as carriers, refused to cross
the Tingalinta, assigning as a reason that they were afraid of being
seized, and retained as slaves by the Footas, who had some years
before obliged them to quit that country, which formerly belonged
to themselves. This delayed us a considerable time, and it was not
until eleven o’clock that we left the ground on which we passed
the night. The path by which we travelled was so extremely rugged
and broken, that we had much labour and difficulty in keeping the
animals from lying down under their loads. This arose from their
not being shod, and from never having travelled on so hard a soil
before; that in the vicinity of Senegal and Goree being a light
moveable sand. On reaching a place where the path separates, one
branch leading direct to Teembo, and the other to Laby, a halt was
made until Captain Campbell came up, when, after some conversation
between him and Abdul Hamed, he ordered us to follow that leading
to Laby, in opposition to the advice of the prince. The reason
assigned by Captain Campbell for his choice, was the expectation of
the assistance of the chief of Laby, who had considerable power and
influence in that quarter. At one, P.M. we passed a small stream[3]
running north, and which, from the steep, rocky, and narrow nature
of the path leading to and from its banks, occupied much time. At
six, the rear reached the halting-place, which was situate on
the ridge of a rising ground, about two miles east of the stream,
but so extremely barren that we could not find, for a considerable
distance round us, a single blade of grass for the animals. Here
again some bees, that were flying about in search of water, fastened
on the animals’ backs as soon as the pack-saddles were removed;
but on this occasion, we applied some dry sand, which absorbed the
profuse perspiration that evidently attracted the thirsty bees, and
by this means we got rid of our troublesome visitors. Abdul Hamed
made himself very useful during this day’s march, and on finding
that we expressed ourselves sensible of his attention, he presented
Captain Campbell with his bow and arrows, modestly insinuating that
a musket in return would be most acceptable; and this was given him.
It was eight o’clock on the morning of the 13th, before the rear
moved forward. We marched over a gently descending plain for a mile
and a half, when we came to a small brook named Calling Ko. The
asses were as usual stubborn, and evinced a most determined dislike
to wet their feet, which caused us much trouble and loss of time. The
country here began to wear a more fertile, or, rather, a less barren
appearance. It was thinly sprinkled with large trees and shrubs,
and produced an abundance of better grass than we had met before. We
halted for the night at another small brook, a short distance from
the Calling Ko, having abandoned during the day’s march six asses
and one bullock.
On the following morning, we started at eight o’clock, and,
in about twenty minutes, passed a fine brook called Sappacourie,
running SSE. the path more rocky and difficult than before. At eleven
we perceived, distant about a quarter of a mile to the right, a broad
lake, thickly skirted with wood; it is called Silla Dharra[4]. At
noon, we passed another smaller lake, and at one, P.M. arrived at
the Cogan, a beautiful stream, which we crossed, and halted for the
night on its eastern bank. It is about fifty yards wide, two feet
deep, and runs rapidly to the north, over a rough stony bottom.
Though we were at work at three o’clock on the morning of the 15th,
it was eleven before the last division left the top of the hill. The
path led us over the most barren country I ever saw, until three,
P.M. when we entered a rich valley, in which, at some distance to
our right, stood a small town, the first we passed since we left
the Tingalinta. At half after four, we arrived at the Serriwoomba,
where we were obliged to halt, in order to cut a passage through
the thicket of cane, which covered its banks. We were all so much
fatigued that we could scarcely keep our eyes open; indeed many of
the men fell asleep on the path. A few shots were fired, to apprise
the inhabitants of the neighbouring villages of our arrival; and in
about two hours, they made their appearance from different directions,
bringing corn, rice, and pistacios for sale.
Both men and animals were so much exhausted, that it was found
necessary to halt until the 18th, when we moved forward at eight,
A.M. and, travelling east for about two miles up hill, we passed a
deserted town, from which we continued marching on a level barren
plain for six miles, and then descending gently for about four miles
more, we arrived at the Kuling, a fine stream running NNE. We crossed
it, and halted on its eastern bank for the night. We had scarcely
unloaded the animals when the long dry grass to windward of our
position was set fire to, and nothing but the greatest exertion
on the part of the men could have prevented it from destroying the
whole of our baggage.
It behoves travellers in that country to be extremely guarded in their
choice of a halting-place, for the path generally lies through grass
six or seven feet long, and so dry at that season, that the smallest
spark of fire is sufficient to set it in a blaze for miles. One of
our animals that had not come up with the rear, lay down with his
load, within range of the burning grass, which soon communicated
with some gunpowder, and blew the whole to pieces. On the morning
of the 19th, we moved forward at eight o’clock. The first hour’s
march lay along the side of a steep hill, rendered doubly difficult
for the animals by being covered with small rough stones. At ten
we descended to a plain, and crossed three small brooks, the first
running NNE. and the two latter S. and by W. Several of the European
non-commissioned officers and soldiers were so ill during this march,
that they lay down under some trees on the path-side. I prevailed
on two of them to move slowly forward, but the others requested to
be allowed to rest until the cool of the evening. My own horse, and
every animal in the division, were so heavily laden, that we could
not afford them any assistance. At one, P.M., we began to ascend some
rocky hills, where we were obliged to abandon three animals. At the
bottom of those hills, we passed the dry bed of a rocky watercourse,
and, shortly after, had considerable difficulty in crossing another
of the kind, near which we halted, in a small valley by the side of
a brook called Bontong Ko.
On the 20th, a messenger was despatched with small presents to
Almamy and the men in authority about him, and to advise him of
our approach. He was accompanied by a young chief, one of the
prince’s suit, likewise the bearer of a message to the king from
his brother. Finding it impossible, with the assistance of all
the carriers we could procure, to move the whole of our baggage
with any degree of regularity or safety, we decided on abandoning
our two small field guns, with their shot and grape, and, having
buried them about three feet beneath the surface, we made a fire,
to conceal where the ground had been broken. By this means we got
rid of three very heavy loads. Captain Campbell thought it better to
dispose of them in that way than to make a present of them to Almamy,
for although it was not likely he could make any use of them, yet
the very circumstance alone of possessing such destructive engines,
and of having received them from us, might induce those nations with
whom he occasionally wages war (and through which we were likely to
travel), to entertain unfavourable opinions of us.
When about to move on the forenoon of the 20th, the prince commenced a
long palaver with Captain Campbell on the subject of our proceeding
without giving him previous notice. It had never been done;
and why he should have expected it on this occasion, was no less
matter of surprise than his haughty language and deportment. After
much conversation, little of which was relevant to the question, he
consented to our moving, which we did at four, P.M., and ascending a
steep hill, so closely covered with cane that we had more difficulty
in passing it than any former part of our path, the dry leaves of
the cane with which it was covered, rendered the ground so slippery,
that the men with difficulty kept their feet; and that nothing might
be wanting to complete our confusion, the Foolahs set fire to the
dry grass and roots, in which the place abounded. We fortunately
escaped without any injury, save the loss of two asses that lay
down unable to move further. It was dark when we began to descend
the eastern side of the hill, which, from the animals frequently
falling, occupied two hours. We reached the Poosa, a small stream,
at eleven, P.M., and encamped on its banks. Our want of the means of
conveyance was every day, nay every hour, becoming more distressing;
carriers could not be procured for all the loads of the animals that
died or were abandoned; we therefore destroyed two of our tents and
a large quantity of flints and musket balls.
The prince, observing Captain Campbell seated on a mat outside his
tent, approached the spot, accompanied by one of his attendants,
named Salihou, and, without further ceremony, seating themselves
near him, began to destroy a portion of the vermin with which even
royalty in that country is covered. They opened a conversation on the
dangerous part of the country we were then in, and the difficulty of
preventing the natives from robbing and otherwise annoying us, adding
that we should not have left the Bontong Ko without consulting them.
Although we were aware that the object of all this was to induce
Captain Campbell to make the prince a present, he nevertheless took no
notice of them. Salihou then, taking hold of the prince’s trowsers
(which, by the way, were in very bad repair), and holding them up,
asked if it was a fit dress for the brother of Almamy to appear
in before the white people? But even this failing to produce the
desired effect, they closed the conversation, and, at the same time,
their more disgusting occupation.
On the following morning, we left the Poosa at nine o’clock,
and at eleven, entered a valley of great beauty and fertility. The
light coloured sandy and rocky soil, which, with little variation,
we passed over since entering the Foolah country, here changed to
a rich dark mould; hills on all sides, rising gently one above
another, and covered with large clumps of trees, bounded this
luxuriant spot. Having passed it, we entered a deep gully, in the
bottom of which the brook Lagoody runs to the NE. The path on both
sides is extremely broken and rocky, forming a nearly perpendicular
precipice of about one hundred and sixty feet; down which two of the
animals, a horse and ass, rolled into the brook, and, strange to say,
received little or no injury. We soon reached the plain of Parowell,
where we encamped for the night. During this march, one of the Foolah
carriers absconded with a portmanteau, containing several articles
of value, and, although the prince sent one of his men in search of
him, he effected his escape unmolested.
On the morning of the 23rd, we moved forward at eight o’clock. In
half an hour we passed another deep ravine, and crossed a plain about
a mile long, from whence the path continued along the side of a hill,
rising to a ridge, of steep ascent; the east side being very steep,
narrow, and rocky. It was so broken before the last division reached,
that we were obliged to make much use of the pickaxe, in order to
clear a passage for the horses, one of which fell over the precipice,
and was much hurt. We continued descending, until we arrived at the
Koba stream, running north, over a rocky bottom; here we encamped
for the night. We were all much fatigued, and one of our sick,
being unable to walk, was most cruelly treated by some Foolahs who
were hired to carry him. They obliged him to walk to the Parowell,
where, had he not met Mr. Stokoe, who lent him his horse, he must
have sunk from weakness and fatigue. When he reached the camp,
he was so much exhausted, that his pulse was scarcely perceptible,
and he was covered with a cold clammy perspiration.
We left the Koba at eight o’clock on the morning of the 24th,
and, passing some large unconnected lumps of rock of from five to
twenty feet perpendicular height, crossed the Yangally, a small
stream running to the east over stones and small gravel. Soon
after, we entered a valley, which, although an apparent good soil,
bore no marks of cultivation. It is bounded on the right by bold
rocky cliffs, behind which, at no great distance, rise a chain of
lofty mountains running SE. and NW. At two P.M. we crossed a small
brook that joins the Dunso, and shortly after heard the noise of
the waterfall, which we were informed was caused by the junction
of that river with the Thoominea. At three, we reached the former,
running with great rapidity to the NNW., and having crossed it at
a ford about thirty yards wide, halted for the night. At about four
miles NE. from our camp, was a lofty perpendicular rock of sand-stone,
bearing a strong resemblance to the ruins of a cathedral.
We left the Dunso at half after seven on the morning of the 26th,
and travelled through a valley bounded by lofty mountains and
perpendicular cliffs of sand-stone. At eleven, we passed a small
stream running E. by S., and in an hour after arrived at the
Kankeenhang stream, running N. by W., where we encamped.
In consequence of some hesitation on the part of the prince to
accompany us farther, until, as he said, a white man had visited
Almamy, we halted at the Kankeenhang until the 2d, when, not being
able to procure a sufficient supply of rice or other provisions,
we moved forward, much against the advice of the prince, who plainly
told us we were doing so altogether on our own responsibility.
A march of four hours, rendered extremely painful and tedious from the
swampy nature of part of the path, and a no less number than fourteen
streams crossed, brought us to the Panjetta river, which we also
crossed, and halted on its east bank. Abdul Hamed, on seeing us cross
the last, thought we were going to continue our march; and, although
he had been told that such was not our intention, he would not allow
the Foolah carriers to move their loads from the west bank. Our own
men soon remedied the evil, much to the temporary annoyance of the
prince, who, on seeing us encamp, expressed his regret at having
doubted us. Our situation was now become truly alarming; a scarcity
of provisions had existed for some days, and on the 3d the men had
none at all: and as the prince could not be prevailed upon to allow
our moving from the Panjetta, until the king’s sanction could be
obtained, Captain Campbell determined on sending Lieutenant Stokoe,
with presents to him and two of his principal chiefs, requesting
permission to pass through the country without any further delay.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 1: Member of the Council of Sierra Leone.]
[Footnote 2: William Tuft.]
[Footnote 3: Diudilicourie.]
[Footnote 4: A Mandingo word, signifying “a prosperous journey.”]