(_1 km. from Norroy on the left of Norroy-Villers road._)]
_After passing through_ =Dornot= _and_ =Ancy=, _the tourist soon reaches_
=Ars-sur-Moselle.=
The name “_Ars_” (_Arches_) is derived from the arcades of the Roman
aqueduct, the imposing remains of which are still to be seen. Known
locally as the “_Devil’s Bridge_,” it extended as far as the village of
Jouy on the right bank of the Moselle, and served to bring water to the
baths and swimming-pool of the amphitheatre of the ancient _Divodurum_
(Metz). It was 3,240 feet long, and 50 feet high. The church, burned
down in 1807, was rebuilt in 1816 on the site of an ancient Roman
fortress. _Ars_ contains important ironworks and a paper factory.
=Moulins= _and_ =Longville= _are next passed, after which_ =Metz= _is entered
by France Gate. Take the Rue de Paris, Ponts des Morts, Rue du Pont des
Morts, Pont Moyen, Rue St. Marie, Rue du Faisan, Place de Chambre, then
Rue d’Estrées on the right, to Place d’Armes, in which stands the_
=Cathedral.=
[Illustration: METZ SEEN FROM THE FORT OF ST. QUENTIN]
METZ
ORIGIN AND CHIEF HISTORICAL FACTS
The origin of Metz dates back to the Celtic epoch, when it was the
capital of the _Mediomatrici_. The Romans fortified it, to defend the
frontiers of the empire against the barbarians. Metz then became the
centre of six great Roman roads leading to distant provinces: two from
Metz to Rheims, two from Metz to Trèves (one on the right, the other on
the left bank of the Moselle), one from Metz to Strasburg, and one from
Metz to Mainz.
A very rich and populous town, it was embellished by numerous Roman
buildings, of which excavations have laid bare important remains: an
=amphitheatre=, near Porte Mazelle, and above all =Gorze Aqueduct= (4th
century), more than thirteen miles in length, which brought water from
Gorze to Metz. Some fine remains of the aqueduct may still be seen at
Jouy-aux-Arches.
The Roman Emperors who visited Metz stayed at the Governors’ Palace,
which stood in Place St. Croix.
Metz was taken and laid waste by the Huns in 451.
Half a century later it was rebuilt and, on the death of Clovis (511),
became the capital of Austrasia and the cradle of the Carolingian
dynasty. Louis-le-Débonnaire was buried in the Abbey of St. Arnoul. The
Treaty of Verdun (843) gave it to Lothaire, who made it the capital of
his kingdom Lotharingia (afterwards Lorraine). Thirty years later the
Treaty of Mersen (870) handed it over to Louis the Germanic.
It was governed, in the name of the emperor, first by the counts and
later by the bishops. In 1220, on the death of Count Thiébaut, the town
became a sort of republic under the title of “Free Imperial Town,” and
was governed by the sheriffs until 1552.
Under Henri II. the French, led by Montmorency, occupied the town, after
a treaty concluded with Maurice of Saxony. The Duke of Guise, appointed
Governor, energetically defended Metz, besieged by Emperor Charles-Quint
(October 19, 1552). On January 1, 1553, Charles-Quint raised the siege,
after having lost 30,000 men. For a long time the kings of France bore
the title of “Protector.” Henri III. was the first to call himself
“Sovereign Ruler.” The Parliament of Metz, created in 1633, completed
the ruin of its municipal independence, and the Treaty of Westphalia
(1648) definitely incorporated it with France. It was the capital of the
“Three Bishoprics” formed by the union of Metz, Toul and Verdun.
Until the Revolution (1789) Metz, while escaping the horrors of war,
constantly felt its effects. Troops were continually passing through it,
and its barracks became a mustering-ground. Turenne, Villars, the
Marquis de Créquy, and Marshal de Villeroy camped within its walls, and
it was at Metz that in August, 1744, Louis XV. was taken seriously ill,
on which occasion the whole of France prayed and fasted for their
“well-beloved” King.
In 1790, Metz became the chief town of the new “Département” of Moselle.
Two sieges, in 1814 and 1815, were victoriously resisted.
1870 was a black year in the annals of the town—till then known as
“_Virgin Metz_.”[A] The battles of Borny (August 14), Rézonville (August
15), St. Privat (August 18), forced _Marshal Bazaine_ to retire under
the walls of the town. He resisted feebly, contenting himself with
awaiting events, and did not even attempt to cut his way through, which
would have saved the honour of the armies under his command. On October
28 he signed the capitulation, and on the following day surrendered with
173,000 men, 60 generals, 6,000 officers, 58 standards, 622 field-guns,
876 siege-guns, 72 machine-guns, 260,000 rifles and huge quantities of
stores and munitions. Six months later (May 10, 1871), by the Treaty of
Frankfort, Metz and part of the “_département_” of Moselle were ceded to
Germany. Metz thus became the capital of German Lorraine.
[A] Its coat of arms consists of an escutcheon argent and sable
surmounted by a maiden crowned by towers and holding a palm in her
left hand. It was, in fact, the proudest claim of Metz, until 1870,
that it had never been taken since it had become a fortified city.
In 1815 the armies of the “Holy Alliance” were refused permission to
march through, when they evacuated French territory, and were obliged
to cross the Moselle over a bridge which the people of Metz erected at
the very foot of the ramparts, just outside the town.
It was from Metz that =La Fayette= set out in 1775 on his immortal
expedition to help America win her freedom and independence. In grateful
remembrance of that glorious event the “=Knights of Columbus=” recently
decided to erect a statue of La Fayette in Metz (_to be inaugurated in
1920_).
[Illustration: GENERAL POST OFFICE AND RAILWAY STATION]
The Fortifications
From its position Metz was destined to become a stronghold of the first
importance. The Romans fortified the town built by the Gauls, and
erected the first citadel. The walls were preserved for a long time, and
Bishop Robert, in the 10th century, utilised their remains. It was only
in the 12th century that the new ramparts included the island formed by
the two arms of the Moselle. They consisted of a high wall protected by
sixty-eight towers. In 1552 the Duke of Guise commissioned an engineer,
_Pierre Strozzi_, to restore these fortifications, which had withstood
two sieges (1444 and 1552), and were in a dilapidated condition. Four
years later (1556) Marshal de Vieilleville erected a citadel flanked by
four bastions, on the site of the old convents. This citadel (which
remained standing until 1802) stood on the site of the present
Esplanade.
About a century later _Vauban_, fully aware of the strategic value of
Metz, conceived a great scheme, which was carried out in the 18th
century by an engineer, _M. Cormontaigne_. Vauban, for his part, added
eleven new bastions to those which already guarded the citadel, but it
was _Cormontaigne_ who perfected the plans for inundating the valley of
the Seille by utilising the waters of Lindre Pond.
Metz became finally one of the most formidable fortresses of Europe.
Under Louis-Philippe the fortifications were entirely restored, and in
1866 preparations were made to rebuild them on a new plan, better
adapted to the exigencies of modern armaments and technique. Of the four
detached forts of St. Quentin, Plappeville, Queuleu and St. Julien, only
the first two were completed in 1870.
The Germans considerably strengthened the fortifications by means of
nineteen bastions surrounded by moats, the latter being protected by
thirteen out-works. The length of the line of forts was increased to
eighteen miles, and eleven new forts were added.
[Illustration: METZ. ST. QUENTIN FORT (_seen from the Esplanade_)]
[Illustration: METZ. AFTER THE ARMISTICE. ENTRY OF FRENCH TROOPS
_November_ 19, 1918.]
[Illustration: THE FIRST FRENCH NEWSPAPERS TO ARRIVE
_November_ 19, 1918.]
METZ AFTER THE SIGNING OF THE ARMISTICE
When the Armistice was signed on November 11, the forts of Metz were
within range of the American artillery, which had already bombarded them
several times, while the troops had taken up the positions from which
the offensive, arranged for the 16th, was to have been launched. The
terms of
[Illustration: METZ. FRENCH TROOPS DEFILING BEFORE MARSHAL PÉTAIN
_November 19, 1918_]
[Illustration: PLACE D’ARMES, NOVEMBER 19, 1918
_In the background_: Statue of Marshal Fabert.]
the Armistice called for the evacuation of the invaded territory,
including Alsace and Lorraine, before the 26th. It was into Metz, freed
of German soldiers, that the French troops made a solemn entry on
Tuesday, November 19, 1918, amid scenes of indescribable enthusiasm.
[Illustration: METZ. GENERAL PÉTAIN MADE MARSHAL OF FRANCE
_After the ceremony_: President Poincaré embraces Prime Minister
Clémenceau.]
The march past took place on the Esplanade, before General Pétain, made
Marshal that morning. Mounted on a white horse and wearing his large
blue coat, he had taken his stand in front of the statue of Marshal Ney.
He was assisted by General Fayolle, commanding a group of armies, and by
Major-General Buat. General Mangin, commanding the 10th Army, had met
with an accident while riding, and his place was taken by General
Leconte. On the same day M. Mirman, who had been appointed Commissioner
of the Republic, was received by General de Maud’huy, Governor of Metz.
Salvos of cannon and the ringing of the famous “Mutte” bell in the
Cathedral celebrated this joyful day.
On the following Sunday, November 24, the leading men of Metz elected
the new Town Council, and decided to restore the names of the streets in
use prior to 1870, and to name new streets after generals and prominent
men who had distinguished themselves in the Great War. The list was
published in a decree dated December 7.
On Sunday, December 8, President Poincaré, accompanied by the French
Prime Minister, M. Clémenceau, the Presidents of the Chambers,
Ministers, Marshals, and French and Allied Generals, proclaimed the
definite return to France of the lost provinces. It was a day never to
be forgotten by those who witnessed it. Young girls in the national
costume of Lorraine—birthplace of the French President—marched through
the streets, and flowers were showered from the windows on the
procession.
In the morning there was a review on the Esplanade, and a
Field-Marshal’s _bâton_ was presented to General Pétain. The President
of the Republic opened the proceedings with an address, after which an
unforeseen and touching incident occurred; overcome with emotion, M.
Poincaré and M. Clémenceau embraced each other.
[Illustration: METZ. LORRAINE GIRLS GROUPED AROUND THE FRENCH FLAG
_November_ 19, 1918.]
In the afternoon there was a reception in the Hôtel-de-Ville, at which
President Poincaré summed up in a stirring speech the whole history of
Metz, and concluded with the following words:—
“Years have gone by, but Metz has not changed. The protests
formerly made to the ‘Reichstag’ in the name of the people of Metz,
in the name of all the people of Lorraine, by that great Bishop,
Mgr. Dupont des Loges, continued calmly and firmly after his death.
Citizens of Metz, you renewed them, year after year, by pilgrimages
to Mars-la-Tour, by visits to the cemeteries, and by fostering
French memories.... Beloved town of Metz, your nightmare is
over—France returns and opens her arms to you!”
The procession was then received with great ceremony by Mgr. Felt at the
Cathedral, and finally went to the cemetery of Chambière, to pay homage
to the dead of 1870.
[Illustration: PLAN OF METZ
METZ
1. Place d’Armes.
2. Prefecture Bridge.
3. Prefecture Square.
4. Rue Pont-Moreau.
5. Rue Belle-Isle.
6. Thionville Bridge.
7. Rue de l’Hôpital Militaire.
8. Route de Thionville.
9. Rue Fabert.
10. Rue de la Tête-d’Or.
11. Rue de la Grande Armée.
12. Rue des Allemands.
13. Rue de St. Julien.
14. Rue de Sarrebruck.
15. Rue Haute-Seille.
16. Rue de Strasbourg.
17. Avenue du Maréchal Foch.
18. Rue Vauban.
19. Rue de Magny.
20. Rue des Clercs.
21. Avenue de la Citadelle.
22. Rue de Nancy.
23. Rue de Pont-à-Mousson.
24. Chambre Square.
25. Rue de la Paix.
26. Rue Pont-des-Morts.
27. Rue de Paris.
28. Avenue Serpenoise.
29. Rue Harelle.
30. Rue de la Gare.
31. Rue de Thionville.
32. Rue du Haut-Poirier.
33. Rue Serpenoise.
34. Rue de President Wilson.
35. Rue de Verdun.
36. Avenue de Maréchal Joffre.
37. King George Square.
38. Bd. Georges Clémenceau.
39. Bd. President Poincaré.
40. Place de la République.
41. Rue Fournirue.
A. Cathedral.
B. German Gate.
C. Barracks.
D. St. Eucairés Church.
E. St. Vincent’s Church.
H. Hôtel-de-Ville.
J. Palais-de-Justice.
M. Museum.
P. Prefecture.
P.S. Serpenoise Gate.
T. Theatre.
]
A VISIT TO METZ
=Starting-point=: the Place d’Armes.
The Place d’Armes, in which the Cathedral and the Hôtel-de-Ville stand,
is a handsome square embellished with noble buildings. On its site
formerly stood the Cathedral cloister, the musicians’ quarters, several
chapels and private houses.
In 1753 the Governor, _Marshal de Belle-Isle_, decided that a square
should be laid out there and a portal erected giving access to the
Cathedral.
The plans of the architect (_Blondel_) for the portal made it necessary
to lower the level of the ground. For months and years, canons and
sheriffs alike stopped or impeded the work. During the night of August
9, 1755, M. de Belle-Isle called out the garrison, and had the work
finished by torchlight. By morning the excavation was complete.
[Illustration: STATUE OF MARSHAL FABERT, PLACE D’ARMES, METZ]
In the Place d’Armes stands a _statue of Marshal Fabert_ (_by Etex_,
1840). The only inscription on the statue of the great Metz general
(1599–1662), who was governor of Sedan, is one of his own sayings: “_If,
to prevent the enemy taking a place entrusted to my care by the king, it
were necessary, I should not hesitate for an instant to sacrifice
myself, my family, and all my belongings._”
[Illustration: METZ CATHEDRAL]
The Cathedral
The whole of one side of the Place d’Armes is occupied by the Cathedral
of St. Etienne, a masterpiece of Gothic architecture. The body of the
church reminds one of Amiens and Beauvais. If, on the outside, it
appears somewhat narrow, the interior (393 feet long, 71 feet wide, 139
feet high), with its magnificent stained-glass, is imposing and of
exceeding beauty.
The oldest portions of the Cathedral date from the 13th century.
The nave, completed in the 14th century, has eight bays. At the fourth
bay it is flanked by two square towers.
The northern tower, called the “Mutte” Tower, contains the town-bell. It
is surmounted by a fine spire, from which there is an extensive view of
the surrounding country. It was there that the city watchman was
installed, whose duty it was to give the alarm in case of fire. On the
other side of the nave stands the Chapter Tower, which was finished in
1839. There is a fine doorway at the foot of each tower.
Another, smaller polygonal tower, called the Clock Tower, is built over
the southern aisle.
On each side of the choir, where it meets the arms of the transept, are
the two small “Charlemagne” towers, so called in memory of those which
existed in the romanesque building. They give access by spiral stairways
to the outside terraces over the Cathedral.
While the nave is 13th century the transept dates from the 15th, and the
choir, built over a great sepulchral crypt, is contemporary with the
last Gothic period.
Although completed in 1546 the Cathedral later underwent many
alterations. Fires necessitated repairs, and in 1753, by order of the
Governor (Marshal de Belle-Isle), the laying out of a square in front of
the Cathedral necessitated the demolition of the outbuildings of the
bishop’s house and the erection of a portal.
[Illustration: INTERIOR OF METZ CATHEDRAL]
The ground was excavated to a depth of some eight or nine feet, and the
architect (_J. B. Blondel_) was instructed to prepare plans on a grand
scale.
This was done between 1761 and 1764, after which the work was at once
put in hand, and completed in 1771. While endeavouring to respect the
old building, Blondel sought, not so much to build the portal in the
style of the Cathedral, as to erect an independent portal in front of
the church. Its irregular lines contrast with the general style of the
Cathedral.
In 1791, the rood-loft, old altars and vaults were removed, in
accordance with the plans of _Gardeur Lebrun_. The roof, destroyed by
fire on the night of May 6, 1877—the day Emperor Wilhelm I. entered
Metz—was replaced in 1880–1882 by a copper roof several yards higher
than the original.
Lastly, the Doric projection of the main front was pulled down in 1903
to make room for a portal planned in the style of the rest of the
church. Statues of the prophets were carved at the corners, one of
which—that of the prophet Daniel—is a _likeness of the ex-Emperor of
Germany, Wilhelm II_. The people of Metz would not have the
ex-Kaiser-prophet take part in the entry of the French, and during the
night bound his hands with a chain attached to which was a board
bearing the inscription, “_Sic transit Gloria Mundi_” (thus passes away
man’s glory) (_photo above_).
[Illustration: THE EX-KAISER WILLIAM II. AS DANIEL
_Statue on Metz Cathedral._]
The offending statue is to be replaced by a work of the Metz sculptor
_Hannaux_, who designed the French monument at Noisseville.
In no other church is there so large an area of window space. It is
calculated that in the transept and choir there are 4,071 square metres
of glass and it is no exaggeration to say that the whole building seems
to be one immense window.
[Illustration: METZ CATHEDRAL. WEST FRONT]
[Illustration: METZ CATHEDRAL. SOUTH FRONT AND PORTAL]
Among the windows are several dating from the 13th century. The large
rose-window at the end of the nave, which dates from the 14th century,
is the work of the master-glassworker Hermann. The windows of the north
transept and the Chapel of Our Lady date from the 15th century.
Those of the south transept, Chapel of St. Nicholas, choir and apse are
16th century.
The bell called “La Mutte,” which hangs in the tower of the same name,
did not belong to the church, but to the town. The present bell, which
is rung on all special occasions, was cast in 1505. It weighs thirteen
tons and, when set in motion, causes the large and small spires to rock
perceptibly. It bears the following inscription:
“Dame Mutte suis baptisée,
De par la Cité ci-posée,
Pour servir à la Cité
Aux jours de grandes solennités:
Et aussi pour crier justice,
Prendre ban de bonne police;
Les contredire quand bon me semble
Et pour convoquer gens ensemble.”
The best view of Metz and the surrounding country is to be obtained from
the top of the Cathedral tower. Here one realizes the immense importance
of the forts, of which the Moselle is a kind of natural moat. On the
left bank the steeply rising hills form natural defences, while the
lower hills on the right bank are reinforced by the line of forts. From
their gleam in the distance one gets a better idea of the number of
waterways which surround and run through Metz—the River Seille, the
streams of St. Pierre, Noisseville, and Châtel-St.-Germain, the River
Moselle (which divides), and the canal running parallel to it. Before
Metz lies the large island of St. Symphorion; then, near the Wadrineau
dyke, the smaller island of Saulcy. At the foot of old Metz there is yet
another arm of the Moselle, which divides, forming an island, on which
stand the Prefecture and Theatre. Beyond lies the large island of
Chambière, recognisable by its parade-ground and cemeteries.
[Illustration: METZ. PLACE D’ARMES AND HÔTEL-DE-VILLE]
The Hôtel-de-Ville
On leaving the Cathedral the tourist should next visit the Town Hall,
also in the Place d’Armes (1766–1771). The architecture is simple:
façade embellished with two pediments and handsome railings. A portico
leads to a fine staircase. Opposite the balustrade is a bas-relief in
white marble on which are engraved the famous lines of Ausonius: “_Salve
magna parens frugumque virumque Mosella_....” (“Hail, O Moselle!
illustrious mother of fruits and of men.”)
In the interior are large reception-rooms, in which the public meetings
of the Academy are held. The =Academy of Metz= was founded in 1760 by
Marshal de Belle-Isle under the title of “The Royal Society of
Literature, Science and Art,” and endowed with the sum of sixty thousand
“livres.” Suppressed at the Revolution, then restored on March 14, 1819,
with the motto “Useful,” it obtained the title of “Royal Academy” from
Charles X. on September 5, 1828. It consists of thirty-six titular
members, eighteen resident members, and four honorary corresponding and
associate members. The Academy largely contributed to maintain French
culture in Lorraine during the German annexation.
In the grand staircase there are three windows, erected in 1852, _in the
middle_, the Duke of Guise after the siege of Metz; _on the right_,
Bishop Bertram of Metz; _on the left_, Sheriff Pierre Baudoche
(1464–1489).
The flag which now flies over the building is the one which was there
in 1870, and which was carefully preserved in the Carnavalet Museum in
Paris. It was restored to the Mayor of Metz by the Vice-President of the
Town Council of Paris on December 25, 1918.
[Illustration: PLAN OF ESPLANADE]
_Leaving the Town Hall take Rue Fabert on the left of the Place d’Armes,
then its continuation (Rue des Clercs). At the end of the latter, on the
left, is the Place de la République, and on the right the Esplanade._
[Illustration: GROUP OF LORRAINE GIRLS AT FOOT OF MARSHAL NEY’S STATUE]
The fine =Promenade de l’Esplanade= served as a parade-ground for the
garrison troops, who defiled along the first row of plane-trees, past
the statue of Marshal Ney (_by Pètre_, 1855). Ney, Duke of Elchingen and
Prince of Moskowa, was born at Sarrelouis. He is represented, rifle in
hand, ready to fire.
[Illustration: STATUE OF EMPEROR WILHELM I. TAKEN DOWN BY HIS “GRATEFUL
SUBJECTS” OF METZ. IT WAS REPLACED BY A STATUE OF “LE POILU”]
Moskowa, was born at Sarrelouis. He is represented, rifle in hand, ready
to fire.
_Go to the end of the Esplanade, beyond the bandstand on the terrace_;
magnificent view of the Hill and Fort of St. Quentin, Fort Plappeville
and the Moselle. The island of Saulcy, on which stands the
powder-factory, is just opposite.
[Illustration: THE “POILU” STATUE, WHICH REPLACES THAT OF WILHELM I.]
It was on this terrace that the bronze equestrian statue of _Kaiser
Wilhelm I_. (1892) used to stand. According to the inscription on the
pedestal the statue was erected by the Emperor’s “grateful people.” The
conqueror was represented pointing to the Moselle and the powerful forts
of Plappeville and St. Quentin which protect the town.
[Illustration: THE “PROMENADE DE LA MOSELLE”]
The “grateful people” dragged this statue off its pedestal into the mud
a few days before the French entered the town, and on the night of
January 6 replaced it with a statue _“To the Victorious Poilu,” bearing
the inscription “On les a”_ (variation of the famous rallying cry “_On
les aura_”) as a pleasant surprise for Marshal Pétain who, next day, was
to decorate sixteen regiments with the “fourragère” cord and bestow
decorations on various officers and soldiers. This statue was made in
seven days by the local sculptor Bouchard (_photos, p. 128_).