stood_ a large railway station and an important German military depot.
_On the other side of the road there is a_ German cemetery containing
600 graves.
=Thiaucourt=, altitude 750 feet, stands in an amphitheatre, in the centre
of a loop described by the Rupt-de-Mad stream.
A large number of its houses are in ruins, especially on the banks of
the Rupt.
Thiaucourt was a rest-camp behind the German lines. Numerous huts were
erected on the banks of the stream, many vestiges of which still remain.
_After crossing the Rupt-de-Mad in_ Thiaucourt, _keep along the street
which continues the bridge and rises to the end of the town. On the
right, towards the last of the houses, is I.C. 13, leading to_ =Jaulny.=
[Illustration: THIAUCOURT ROAD (D. 15). MACHINE-GUN BLOCKHOUSE]
_Recross the Rupt-de-Mad at the entrance to Jaulny. Take to the left,
along the river, the road running through the village_, many of whose
houses were damaged by shells.
[Illustration: THIAUCOURT. BRIDGE OVER THE RUPT-DE-MAD]
_On leaving Jaulny there is_ a large German cemetery _on the right_.
_I.C. 13 runs through a pretty valley, alongside the Rupt-de-Mad and
passes near the railway station._ The old road having been destroyed by
the explosion of a German ammunition train, _a new road enables the
tourist, by crossing the river, to reach the village of_ =Rembercourt= _on
the left bank_. The bridge was blown up and many of the houses are in
ruins.
_I.C. 13, which continues alongside the Rupt-de-Mad as far as the
Moselle, is next reached_. This road is extremely picturesque.
[Illustration: AMERICAN CEMETERY AT THIAUCOURT, AT THE SIDE OF D. 15,
HALF A MILE FROM THE VILLAGE]
_Leaving Villecey-sur-Mad, slightly damaged, on the right, go towards_
=Onville.= _Three hundred yards this side of the village, to the left of
I.C. 13, is_ a large German cemetery. The village, on which a few shells
fell, contains a fine church.
=Vandelainville=, _which is the continuation of Onville_, contains several
houses damaged by the bombardments.
_Passing through the villages of_ =Bayonville= _and_ =Arnaville=, _N. 52
bis, which runs along the left bank of the Moselle, and which take to
the right in the direction of_ =Pagny-sur-Moselle.=
This village, also called Pagny-sous-Prény, from the name of the hamlet
and château which dominates the surrounding country, was for forty-eight
years the Custom House, being the last French railway station before the
frontier.
=Prény Château=, the ruins of which are visible from here, was one of the
most famous castles of the Middle Ages. Built by the Dukes of Lorraine,
it was dismantled by Richelieu. It formed a square flanked by high,
strong towers connected with one another by walls and subterranean
passages hollowed out of the rock. At one end there was a second
building, also surrounded by moats and flanked by towers, in one of
which was the famous “_Mande-Guerre_” bell. The keep with the chapel and
living-rooms stood there.
Pagny suffered severely, most of the houses being in ruins.
_The road turns to the left into the valley, then to the right beyond
the church, which is left on the right._
_Just outside Pagny-sur-Moselle_ the Germans built a concrete barrier
across the road to stop the tanks.
_About 500 yards from Pagny, near the bridge over Mouton stream, is a_
machine-gun blockhouse in concrete _on the right_.
_N. 52 bis next passes through_ =Vandières=, which was burnt down by the
Germans during their retreat of September 16. All the houses along the
road, especially those on the left, are in ruins.
_Five kilometres further on, after crossing the railway_, =Pont-à-Mousson=
_is entered by the Rue du Port, Place Colombe and Rue St. Laurent; the
latter brings the tourist to the Grand Place or Place Duroc_.
[Illustration: VILLAGE OF PAGNY-SUR-MOSELLE, NEAR THE CHURCH]
[Illustration: PONT-À-MOUSSON. THE BANKS OF THE MOSELLE]
PONT-À-MOUSSON
Origin and Chief Historical Events
Pont-à-Mousson is an old town, in whose archives are found deeds dating
back to 896 and 905. At that time it was called “_Villa Pontus sub
castro Montionis_” (The Town of the Bridge under the Castle of Monçon).
In the 16th century there was a long controversy between the professors
of the University and those of the Jesuit College as to whether the town
(“Pont”) or the castle (“Monçon” or “Mousson”) should have precedence,
_i.e_. if one should say “_Ponti Mussum_” or “_Mussi Pontum_.” The
dispute was settled and the name “_Ponti Mussum_” (Pont-à-Mousson)
decreed by Duke Charles III. Nevertheless, the inhabitants still insist
on calling themselves “_Mussipontins_.”
Renaud I., Count of Bar, living a retired life in his château of
Mousson, founded near the town in 1106 a priory dedicated to St. Michel,
which he gave to the Abbey of St. Mihiel. In 1239 the “_Messins_”
(inhabitants of Metz) broke down the bridge to prevent the Count of Bar
communicating with his castle, but three years later they joined the
Count of Bar against Duke Mathieu who, in revenge, burned down the
little town of Pont.
Enfranchised in 1263 by Count Thiébaut II., Pont-à-Mousson was raised to
a marquisate in 1355 by Emperor Charles IV., and, in 1356, was granted
the rights and privileges of an imperial town.
Charles-the-Bold took possession of it in 1476, but it was retaken later
by Duke René. However, the defection of his Swiss troops forced him to
surrender it again to the Duke of Burgundy.
What made the glory and prosperity of the town was the foundation of a
University in 1572. The influx of students and the renown of the
professors made Pont-à-Mousson famous until 1763, when the University
was transferred to Nancy.
The University encouraged the establishment of printing works, and
volumes printed by Marchand and Melchior Bernard are still justly
prized.
Although an open town, Pont-à-Mousson was violently bombarded by the
Germans as early as August 11, 1914. After a short occupation the town
was liberated by the French on September 13, 1914. The bombardments were
resumed and lasted till the end of the war.
As to the part played by Pont-à-Mousson in the =Battle for the Grand
Couronné Heights=, see the Michelin Guide, “=Nancy and the Grand
Couronné.=”
[Illustration: PLAN OF PONT-À-MOUSSON
_Arbitrary Signs_
A.—Church of St. Laurent.
B.—Church of St. Martin.
C.—Lesser Seminary.
H.—Hôtel-de-Ville.
1.—Rue du Port.
2.—Rue St. Laurent.
3.—Place Duroc.
4.—Rue de l’Union.
5.—Rue Gambetta.
6.—Rue St. Martin.
7.—Rue Victor Hugo.
8.—Place Thiers.
9.—Avenue Carnot.
]
A VISIT TO PONT-À-MOUSSON.
=Starting-point=: _Place Duroc (or Grand Place), in which stands the
Hôtel-de-Ville_.
Place Duroc, with its irregular arcades and Renaissance houses, presents
a very characteristic appearance.
[Illustration: PLACE DUROC, WITH ITS ARCADED HOUSES
Maison Leguy: _the 3 first arcades, beginning at the turret. The 4th and
5th arcades belong to the_ House of the Seven Capital Sins.]
_Visit first the_ “=House of the Seven Capital Sins=,” decorated with
caryatids. _At the bottom of a court there is_ a fine bas-relief
_representing The Conversion of St. Paul_.
[Illustration: THE HOUSE OF THE SEVEN CAPITAL SINS]
_A little further on is the_ =Maison Leguy=, recognisable by its hexagonal
turret, which rests on one of the corner pillars of the arcades.
Tradition attributes its construction to the Templars, and says that a
subterranean passage led from it across the Moselle and up to Mousson.
_The turret is at the corner of Rue Victor Hugo, which take to see, in
the Rue de l’Union (first street on the left), two curious doors at Nos.
6 and 8._
_Return to Place Duroc, turn to the left into Rue St. Laurent and see,
in the court of No. 9_, a fine gallery delicately carved in Renaissance
style (slightly damaged by the bombardment); _at No. 11_, a handsome
façade with a charming court, an old well, the railing of the old
terrace, a spiral staircase and timbered ceilings; _at No. 19_, the
façade, door and entrance.
[Illustration: OLD RENAISSANCE BALCONY AT NO. 7, RUE ST. LAURENT]
[Illustration: CHURCH OF ST. LAURENT]
_Opposite No. 19 is the_ =Church of St. Laurent=; it was slightly damaged,
the roof being pierced by shells in several places.
This church, frequently restored, offers no particular interest.
Inside there is a =reredos= in the form of a triptych, which came from the
neighbouring Convent of the Poor Claires at Pont-à-Mousson. This work is
by “_Georgin le painctre_,” and dates from the 16th century.
It represents: the _Baptism of Christ_, the _Resurrection of Lazarus_,
_the Healing of the Blind at the Pool_, and the _Burial of Christ_.
The Chapel of Our Lady of Pity contains a celebrated “Christ carrying
the Cross” by _Ligier Richier_. (_See note, p. 56, regarding this famous
sculptor’s works._)
[Illustration: TEMPORARY BRIDGE OVER THE MOSELLE (_left bank_)]
[Illustration: DESTROYED STONE BRIDGE OVER THE MOSELLE, WITH TEMPORARY
WOODEN FOOT-BRIDGE]
[Illustration: CHURCH OF ST. MARTIN. WEST FRONT]
[Illustration: CHURCH OF ST. MARTIN
_14th century tomb of a knight and his wife._]
_Return to the Place Duroc, take the street leading to the bridge, which
comes out opposite the “House of the Seven Capital Sins.”_ The fine
stone bridge was partly destroyed. A temporary footway, however, makes
it possible to _cross the Moselle here and reach the Rue Gambetta_.
_On the left, at the corner of Rue St. Martin, stands_ the greatly
damaged =Church of St. Martin.= All the stained-glass windows were
destroyed. Several shells pierced the walls and roof.
The Church of St. Martin (_Hist. Mon._) is the old church of the
Antonists, and was built in 1474.
[Illustration: THE SEPULCHRE (16TH CENTURY) IN THE CHURCH OF ST.
MARTIN]
[Illustration: CHURCH OF THE PETIT SÉMINAIRE
_Façade facing the Rue St. Martin._]
The very narrow façade is in florid pointed style. The interior of the
church has undergone numerous unfortunate restorations. In the aisles
are: _on the left_, the funeral statues of a 14th century knight and his
wife; _on the right_, the tomb of Esther of Apremont, with her
coat of arms (1592), and a particularly interesting late 16th century
sepulchre (_see photos, p. 94_).
A triforium runs round the nave, and the tribune is closed by a fine
open-work gallery dating from the end of the 16th century.
Unfortunately, the choir is disfigured by a facing of marble which
conceals the frescoes that decorated the walls.
[Illustration: THE LIBRARY OF THE PETIT SÉMINAIRE]
[Illustration: SPIRAL STAIRCASE OF THE PETIT SÉMINAIRE]
_Beside the church, in the Rue St. Martin, is the_ =Petit Séminaire=,
housed in the sumptuous Abbey of the Premonstrants, dating from the
early part of the 18th century.
[Illustration: REFECTORY OF THE PETIT SÉMINAIRE]
It was very seriously damaged by the bombardments. The chapel and its
façade, the parlour, in very outlined rock-work style, splendid
staircases, large cloisters and, above all, the famous wood-carvings in
the library, were especially noteworthy.
[Illustration: NARROW RISING ROAD TO MOUSSON, WITH SHELTER IN THE
FOREGROUND]
Mousson
_To reach Mousson, proceed to the end of the Rue Gambetta, in the
opposite direction to the Moselle._
[Illustration: CEMETERY OF PONT-À-MOUSSON
_At the side of the above road (continuation of Rue Gambetta)._]
_Leave the car at the entrance to the Avenue de Metz (on the left) and
walk up the hollow road (opposite the Rue Gambetta), which skirts the
cemetery. (Time required: half an hour.)_
[Illustration: RUINS OF TOMBS IN THE CEMETERY AT PONT-À-MOUSSON]
Along this road artillery batteries were posted, the emplacements of
which may still be seen.
_Take a glance at_ the cemetery, where a number of graves have been
destroyed.
The village of Mousson is at the top of a hill where there have been
successively: a Roman camp, an Austrasian fortress and, in the 10th
century, the château of the Countess Sophie de Bar, reduced to ruins by
_Richelieu_.
The fortifications consist of a first line covering the village, and a
second surrounding the château. The houses thus form a semicircle
between the two ramparts.
The village was greatly damaged during the war. Most of the houses are
in ruins. Some of them had tricusped windows and curious 15th and 16th
century doors.
_Skirt the_ ancient Chapel of the Templars _to reach the_ terrace of the
old château.
[Illustration: A CORNER OF MOUSSON VILLAGE
_In the background_: JOAN-OF-ARC TOWER AND STATUE]
All that remains of the château is the central chapel (11th–12th
century) (_Hist. Mon._), which was unhappily enlarged about 1895, and
to which a battlemented tower surmounted by a gilt statue of Joan-of-Arc
was added.
[Illustration: PONT-À-MOUSSON AND PRÊTRE WOOD, SEEN FROM MOUSSON]
The chapel (_Hist. Mon._), with a semicircular vaulted roof on curious
pillars, contains fine baptismal fonts (1085) decorated with sculptures.
These fonts, resembling the curb-stone of a well, are decorated with
bas-reliefs representing: _John the Baptist preaching repentance to
publicans and soldiers who came to him in the wilderness; John baptizing
two naked Jews immersed in a cistern; John baptizing Jesus Christ,
plunged up to the waist in the waters of Jordan._
On the terrace are numerous trenches, in addition to shafts dug by the
engineers to reach the underground passages which communicate with
concrete shelters. One of these shelters may still be seen along the
southern ramparts of the old château. All these military works are very
interesting to visit.
There is a =splendid panorama= from this terrace: _on one side_ (_photo,
pp._ 100 and 101) the town of Pont-à-Mousson and the valley of the
Moselle with, behind Pont-à-Mousson, Puvenelle Forest and Prêtre Wood;
_on the other side_, the valley of the Seille, with Metz Cathedral in
the distance. _To the south-east is seen_ the Grand Couronné.
Mousson was a first-rate observation-post for the French gunners, which
explains the fortifications that were erected there during the war.
[Illustration: PANORAMIC VIEW OF PONT-À-MOUSSON AND THE VALLEY OF THE
MOSELLE, SEEN FROM MOUSSON]
[Illustration: RUINS OF THE OLD FORTIFIED CASTLE OF MOUSSON
_On the right_: JOAN-OF-ARC TOWER AND STATUE]
[Illustration: MOUSSON CEMETERY
_In the background_: WALLS OF THE OLD FORTIFIED CASTLE]
A VISIT TO PRÊTRE WOOD
=A.=—_From_ =Pont-à-Mousson= _to the_ =Croix des Carmes=, _via_ =Montauville=,
_returning to_ =Pont-à-Mousson=
The Fighting in Prêtre Wood
Prêtre Wood dominates all the southern part of the Plain of Woëvre
(altitude: 1,200 feet).
From October, 1914, to May, 1915, it was the scene of a continual
struggle, at the end of which the wood remained in the hands of the
French.
It was in September, 1914, that the Germans installed themselves in
Prêtre Wood, which they at once fortified with barbed wire,
chevaux-de-frise, etc.
On September 30, 1914, the French obtained a footing in the
south-western edges of the forest. A month later (October 29) they
captured a German post in the south-eastern salient. Their efforts were
next concentrated on Père Hilarion Ravine, which they gradually occupied
after many fights in the rain and snow of November and December.
Their troops advanced by short rushes as far as the principal line,
which had to be taken by a direct attack. First, artillery was brought
up by night to prepare the attack. Sappers, by long and patient sapping,
blew up the minor defences and penetrated the blockhouses. The
adversaries were at times less than a hundred yards apart.
[Illustration: PRÊTRE WOOD. SHELTERS IN CARRIÈRES RAVINE]
From January, 1915, the French operations were directed against the
western portion, towards Quart-en-Réserve and Croix des Carmes Hill.
Four lines of trenches bristling with machine-guns and defences held up
the attack. The ground had to be taken bit by bit, and often a
counter-attack would win back in the evening the gains of several days’
hard fighting. The first line was carried on January 17, and the second
on February 16. At this point aerial torpedoes and hand grenades caused
progress to slow down. The third line was captured on March 30. Attacks
and counter-attacks followed. Fighting with hand grenades took place in
the communicating trenches, behind barrages, and the artillery on both
sides covered this narrow strip of ground with projectiles, breaking
down the parapets and destroying the communicating trenches. The
Germans, who lost heavily, brought up endless reinforcements—in all
about sixteen battalions—thus showing the importance which they
attached to this position.
[Illustration: CEMETERY IN PRÊTRE WOOD]
The final attack was launched on May 12. The French carried the
blockhouses and the northern slopes beyond the crest, but the enemy
still clung to the eastern and western slopes. However, the wood was
won, and the splendid observation-post which the hill afforded was
thenceforth in the hands of the French.
In the little cemetery on the hillside hundreds of heroes sleep their
last sleep.
The slopes near the road throughout this district are one vast cemetery,
while the wood proper hides beneath its soil hundreds of dead entombed
by the explosion of mines or the falling-in of trenches.
This wood of tragic memories was called by the Germans “_The Wood of
Death_,” or “_The Widows’ Wood_.”
[Illustration]
_Leave_ =Pont-à-Mousson= _by Avenue Carnot, cross the railway (l.c.),
leaving N.57 on the left (which follows the railway towards Nancy) and
continue along N.58 to_ =Montauville=, _2 km. from Pont-à-Mousson_.
This village did not suffer much. _On entering, there are_ several large
concrete machine-gun blockhouses _on the right_.
The nearest dressing station was at Montauville, in the cellar of a
ruined house. First aid was given in the trenches or in the little hut
near the big oak tree. From Montauville the wounded were taken in motors
to Pont-à-Mousson. There was a constant procession of ambulances,
stretcher-bearers and hospital attendants on the road.
[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO PRÊTRE WOOD
_Motors stop at the fork. The road to the left leads to Fey-en-Haye,
Tourists should take the one to the right leading to the Père Hilarion
Fountain and the Croix des Carmes._]
_Beyond a knoll opposite the church of Montauville, take on the right a
downhill road which turns sharply and leads to the village cemetery.
Here the road forks. Take the road on the left, which first dips and
then a little further on rises in the direction of_ =Prêtre Wood.= This
road is in bad condition, but in dry weather motors can go as far as the
entrance to the wood.
[Illustration: FRENCH AND AMERICAN GRAVES ON THE ROAD TO THE PÈRE
HILARION FOUNTAIN]
_About 800 yards from the cemetery the road branches, that on the left
going to_ Fey-en-Haye. _Take the road on the right, which soon leads to_
=Prêtre Wood.=
_On the right, at the roadside, about 1,200 yards from the fork, are two
graves_: one of an American, the other of a French soldier.
_Three hundred yards further on, in a ravine to the right of the road,
are the_ =fountain= _and_ =house= _of_ =Father Hilarion.= All around are
numerous trenches, shelters and military works of all kinds.
Père Hilarion fountain remained for some time between the opposing
lines. Germans and French alike came there every day to draw water, and
by a tacit understanding each side came at the definite hour. During
this respite no shot was fired from the trenches.
[Illustration: THE PÈRE HILARION FOUNTAIN AND HOUSE]
_Follow the road_ (leaving on the right a steep uphill road, 150 yards
from the fountain) _which for 800 yards, down a gentle slope, crosses
the_ part of the wood called the “=Mouchoir=” and =“Croix des Carmes”
Sector.= This formed the first Franco-German lines.
[Illustration: THE HOUSE OF FATHER HILARION IN PRÊTRE WOOD]
The sight is a moving one: destroyed trees, the ground torn up by
shells, trenches fallen in and battered shelters.
_When the road reaches the crest, look back._ The sight is more tragic
still. In the distance is seen Mousson Crest, which stands out above the
trees of Prêtre Wood and, _to the right, on a small hill, 100 yards from
the road_, the site of the famous “=Croix des Carmes.=”
[Illustration: GERMAN TRENCHES IN “MOUCHOIR” SECTOR, PRÊTRE WOOD, NEAR
PÈRE HILARION FOUNTAIN]
[Illustration: PRÊTRE WOOD, THE “PELLEMENT” TRENCHES IN “MOUCHOIR”
SECTOR]
When the position was taken by the French, sappers of the Engineers
Corps piously removed the cross from its place and carried it to the
cemetery in the valley where the heroes of these battles lie buried.
There they erected it, and surrounded it with some of the barbed wire
from the late German trenches.
_Return to Montauville, then to Pont-à-Mousson by the same road._
[Illustration: PRÊTRE WOOD. “MOUCHOIR” SECTOR _Gen. Le Bocq in a Trench,
twenty yards from the enemy lines._]
[Illustration: Road Through the forest to Montauville
Road to Norroy
Mousson Crest
PRÊTRE WOOD. CROIX DES CARMES SECTOR]
[Illustration: Hill 372
Mousson Crest
Père Hilarion Fountain
Site of the Croix des Carmes
PRÊTRE WOOD. BETWEEN THE FRENCH AND GERMAN LINES
_Seen from near the Croix des Carmes, on the road to Montauville (in the
foreground)._]
[Illustration: SECOND DAY (_continued_)
B.—_From_ Pont-à-Mousson _to_ Metz]
[Illustration: BARRICADE ON THE ROAD FROM PONT-À-MOUSSON TO NORROY]
SECOND DAY (_continued_)
B.—PONT-À-MOUSSON TO METZ
From Pont-à-Mousson to Norroy and Hill 372
_At Pont-à-Mousson, on returning from Montauville, cross the railway
(l.c.), take Avenue Carnot, then Rue Victor Hugo to Place Duroc. Turn to
the left into Rue St. Laurent, which leads to N. 52 bis._
[Illustration: NORROY AND THE MOSELLE VALLEY, SEEN FROM HILL 372 TO THE
S. W. OF NORROY, ON THE NORROY-FEY ROAD]
_Follow the latter 3 km. to a narrow road on the left leading to_
=Norroy.= _Cross the village to the Place de l’Eglise. Leave the church
on the right and keep along the road which rises sharply towards the
crest of_ =Hill 372.= The entrance to Prêtre Wood, on the German side, is
here.
On this crest several fortified quarries served as shelters for the
guns. In the wood are a number of concrete shelters, trenches and
observation-posts, one of which, cupola-shaped, is well worth a visit.
_Return to Norroy, then, in front of the church, take on the left the
road towards_ =Villers-sous-Prény=, _which winds round Hill 372_.
[Illustration: GERMAN OBSERVATION-POST ON THE TOP OF HILL 372. ENTRANCE
TO PRÊTRE WOOD (_coming from Norroy_)]
_On leaving Norroy, the road rises sharply, then zigzags down the side
of Hill 372. One kilometre from Norroy, and 100 yards to the left of the
road, is_ a veritable village of concrete and stone, built in a quarry
by the Germans, with shelters in the rock more than thirty feet deep. It
served as a Post of Commandment, and was fitted with a telephone
exchange which directed the artillery-fire in the Prêtre Wood sector.
_The road continues to descend to Villers-sous-Prény (2 km.). There is_
a German cemetery _on the left, before entering the village_, many
houses of which are in ruins.
_At_ =Villers= _take I. C. 13 on the right to_ =Vandières= (_3 km._), _where
N. 52 bis is joined. Take same on the left to_ =Metz.=
This road, which runs alongside the Moselle, is picturesque, but in bad
condition, especially between Arnaville and Metz. (_N. 57 from
Pont-à-Mousson to Metz, on the right bank of the Moselle, is in much
better condition, but less picturesque._)
_The road passes through_ =Pagny-sur-Moselle= (_see_ p. 109).
The valley of the Moselle becomes prettier and prettier; varied scenery,
picturesque landscapes and villages nestling in the sides of the hills.
_The road turns to the left and crosses the Rupt-de-Mad stream at_
=Arnaville=—the last village on the frontier since 1870, and the boundary
of the old “_département_” of the Meuse.
It next passes through Novéant, where for a long time the German
customhouse was installed. The village contains a château; in the church
there is a carved ivory figure of Christ.