MICHELIN ILLUSTRATED GUIDES
TO THE BATTLEFIELDS (1914–1918)
THE AMERICANS
IN THE
GREAT WAR
VOLUME II.
THE BATTLE OF SAINT MIHIEL
(ST. MIHIEL, PONT-à-MOUSSON, METZ.)
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THE AMERICANS
IN THE
GREAT WAR
VOLUME II.
THE BATTLE OF ST. MIHIEL
(ST. MIHIEL, PONT-À-MOUSSON, METZ.)
_Published by_ Michelin & Cie, Clermont-Ferrand, (France)
Copyright, 1920, by Michelin & Cie
_All rights of translation, adaptation or reproduction (in part or
whole), reserved in all countries._
FOREWORD
THE ST. MIHIEL VICTORY, SEPTEMBER, 1918
The world already knows of the undying glory achieved in the Great War
by the American Soldiers, but perhaps less is known about the historic
ground over which they fought.
The purpose of the present volume is more to describe, for the benefit
of the tourist, that section of France where the battle of Saint-Mihiel
raged, than to dwell on the splendid achievements of the brave troops
from across the seas, who took that ancient stronghold, and thus opened
the way to Metz.
At the same time it is fitting to remind the reader that at Saint-Mihiel
the Americans liberated over 150 square miles of French territory; took
over 15,000 German prisoners, and captured upwards of 200 guns.
President Poincaré, in a message to President Wilson, expressed in the
following words, the feelings of France regarding the glorious
achievements of the American troops: “I congratulate you, Mr. President,
on a victory which has been completed so brilliantly. General Pershing’s
magnificent divisions have just liberated with admirable dash, cities
and villages of Lorraine which have been groaning for years under the
yoke of the enemy. I express the warmest thanks of France to the people
of the United States.”
Marshal Foch, also, expressed the greatest possible admiration for the
way the American troops fought their way to the great victory at
Saint-Mihiel. In describing the battle Marshal Foch said: “This was
where the Americans for the first time showed their worth. This is where
we were able to judge of these admirable soldiers, strong in body and
valiant in soul. In one swoop they reduced the famous salient, which
during so long we did not know how to approach.”
In closing this brief introduction the publisher wishes to say that it
would have been an easy matter to fill the pages following with many
high-sounding phrases and verbose descriptions, but it has been thought
better to adhere to the facts (they speak for themselves), and to
furnish the tourist as briefly as possible with an historically correct
account of the great victory of Saint-Mihiel.
AMERICAN FORCES ENGAGED
FIRST ARMY CORPS
Major-General Hunter Liggett
comprising the
_82nd Division Major-General W. P. Burnham_
_90th „ „ „ Henry T. Allen._
_5th „ „ „ John McMahon._
_2nd „ „ „ John A. Le Jeune._
[Illustration: MAJOR-GENERAL HUNTER LIGGETT
_Commanding the 1st Army Corps._]
FOURTH ARMY CORPS
Major-General Joseph T. Dickman
comprising the
_89th Division Brig.-General Frank L. Winn._
_42nd „ Major-General C. A. Flagler._
_1st „ „ „ E. F. McGlachlin._
_3rd „(Res.) „ „ B. B. Buck._
[Illustration: MAJOR-GENERAL JOSEPH T. DICKMAN
_Commanding the 4th Army Corps._]
FIFTH ARMY CORPS
Major-General George H. Cameron
comprising the
_26th Division Major-General Harry C. Hale._
_4th „ „ „ Mark L. Hersey._
[Illustration: MAJOR-GENERAL GEORGE H. CAMERON
_Commanding the 5th Army Corps._]
[Illustration:
MAJ.-GEN.
J. A. LE JEUNE,
_2nd Inf. Divn._
]
[Illustration: MAJ.-GEN. E. F. McGLACHLIN, JR. _1st Inf. Divn._]
[Illustration: MAJOR-GENERAL HENRY T. ALLEN
_90th Inf. Divn._]
[Illustration: MAJ.-GEN. C. A. F. FLAGLER
_42nd Inf. Divn._]
[Illustration: MAJ.-GEN. M. L. HERSEY
_4th Inf. Divn._]
[Illustration: THE FRONTIER IN 1914 AND DEFENCES OF THE MEUSE
_In constructing these defences, Gen. Séré de Rivières’ plans provided
for the concentration of the French Armies to the west of the Meuse, the
bridges being within range of the guns of the forts on the Meuse
Heights. The quadrilateral formed by Woëvre Plain was open to the
enemy._]
THE MILITARY OPERATIONS IN THE ST. MIHIEL SALIENT (1914–1918).
The Frontier in 1914
(_See map, p. 8._)
If we look at a map of the Franco-German frontier of 1914, between Nancy
and Verdun, it will be seen that two rivers—the Meuse and the
Moselle—ran parallel with the frontier, forming a double line of
defences. The Moselle is protected by the hills of that name, and the
Meuse by the Heights of Meuse, the eastern side of which, facing
Germany, consists of a series of steep cliffs.
When, in 1875, General Séré de Rivières was instructed to fortify this
frontier, his plans provided for the construction of a line of forts
along the Meuse Heights, capable of holding the bridges across the Meuse
under gunfire, and thus enable the French Armies to concentrate behind
the river near Neufchâteau. The three northern forts, therefore, faced
the Meuse; the southern forts, viz., Gironville and Liouville, commanded
both the Meuse and the Woëvre.
The drawback to this plan was that the vast Woëvre Plain lying between
Stenay, Longwy, Toul and Nancy, would be sacrificed in the event of a
surprise attack. The importance of this possible loss was made all the
greater by the discovery of coalfields in the Briey district. It was
therefore decided that a number of battalions of Chasseurs should be
garrisoned in the Woëvre towns. Moreover, the passing of the Three
Years’ Military Service Bill made it possible to increase considerably
the number of covering troops. In 1914, the Plan of Concentration
provided for the grouping of the French Third Army in the Woëvre Plain.
However, no permanent defences were erected. The fortress of Longwy,
being isolated and of little military value, could not give effective
protection.
The German Government had on several occasions given the French
Government to understand that they would disapprove the erection of
fortifications in Woëvre. On the other hand, the Germans unceasingly
strengthened their own frontier from Metz to Thionville, increasing the
perimeter of the entrenched camp of Metz from 25 to 90 kilometres and
erecting ten new forts. All the attacks against the Meuse Heights
started from this vast entrenched camp, which, for four years, also
furnished the German lines of St. Mihiel with troops.
September 7, 1914, and the following days were particularly anxious ones
for General Sarrail’s army which, resting as it did on Verdun, was to
form the pivot of Joffre’s famous manœuvre (_see the Michelin
Illustrated Guide_: “The Battlefields of the Marne, 1914”).
HOW THE ST. MIHIEL SALIENT WAS FORMED
First Attempt during the Battle of the Marne
(_See map, p. 10._)
A furious frontal attack was made on this army by the ex-Crown Prince of
Germany, while at the same time it was taken in the rear, on the Meuse
Heights, by the Bavarian Crown Prince. Had the latter succeeded in
crossing the Meuse, Verdun would have become untenable; General Sarrail
would have been forced to retreat southwards, and, as in this gigantic
battle of the Marne all the armies were interdependent, such a
withdrawal would have been felt all along the line, and Joffre’s plans
for a strategical recovery would have failed.
On September 8, the Germans bombarded the Fort of Troyon. The Governor
of Verdun telegraphed to the officer in command of the fort that victory
depended upon his resistance, and requested him to hold out
“indefinitely.” As a precautionary measure, General Sarrail ordered
several of the bridges across the Meuse to be destroyed.
On September 9, the fort’s guns were put out of action, but the
defenders repulsed several assaults. Génicourt Fort was next bombarded.
[Illustration: THE FIRST GERMAN ATTACKS AGAINST THE MEUSE HEIGHTS
_While the Battle of the Marne was raging, the Germans attempted in vain
to capture the Meuse Heights, in order to take Gen. Sarrail’s Army—the
pivot of Joffre’s manoeuvre—in the rear._]
On the 10th, the forts were still holding out, although deluged with
shells. Meanwhile the German infantry advanced towards St. Mihiel.
However, the Battle of the Marne had now been won on the left wing, and
the German retreat, which was to extend as far as the Verdun—St. Mihiel
district, had begun.
General de Castelnau despatched the 73rd Reserve and 2nd Cavalry
Divisions of his army to Troyon, and the fort was relieved on September
13. The mobile defence forces of Verdun pursued the retreating Germans
across the Meuse and established themselves to the east of the town,
while General Sarrail’s army advanced towards the north and west.
The German plan had completely failed.
[Illustration: THE FORMATION OF THE ST. MIHIEL SALIENT (_Sept. 20–29,
1914_)]
Their set-back at Troyon did not prevent the Germans reforming, and they
attacked the Meuse Heights again on September 20, in an endeavour to
outflank Verdun from the south. Four army corps under General von
Strantz, starting from Metz, advanced rapidly on the 22nd to the
Combres-Vigneulles-Thiaumont line, and began a methodical bombardment of
the forts on the Meuse Heights. These were soon pounded into shapeless
heaps of _débris_, but the gallant defenders still held on and repulsed
all assaults.
On the 23rd, the enemy advanced to Seicheprey. The mobile defence forces
of the region, greatly outnumbered (two or three to one), formed only a
very thin line, the depth of which steadily decreased as it extended
beyond Verdun to the south.
On September 24, the German attacks were renewed with increased fury. On
the 25th, they succeeded in gaining a footing on the Meuse Heights near
Vigneulles, whence they advanced to St. Mihiel, which they entered
without, however, crossing the Meuse. At this point the river was only
defended by one battalion of Territorials, and the Germans were able to
cross on the 26th, after which they began to advance towards the valley
of the Aire, in the direction of Verdun. The situation was critical. The
16th Corps from Nancy met and defeated the German forces, and obliged
them to fall back in disorder on the suburbs of St. Mihiel, but were
unable to force them back across the river. On September 29, the front
line ran through Combres, Chauvoncourt, Apremont and Seicheprey.
The salient had been made.
[Illustration: THE DESTROYED BRIDGE AT ST. MIHIEL
_In the background_: Temporary foot-bridge built by the Allies in Sept.,
1918.]
THE ST. MIHIEL SALIENT—Oct., 1914, to Sept., 1918
(_See map, p. 13._)
[Illustration: FORTIFIED STREET IN FEY-EN-HAYE (1915)]
From November 17–20 the French endeavoured to drive the Germans from the
bridgehead which the enemy held at Chauvoncourt, opposite St. Mihiel. In
a spirited attack they drove the Germans from the suburb and barracks of
Chauvoncourt. However, the latter had been mined, the Germans, taking
advantage of the confusion caused by the explosion, counter-attacked and
reoccupied Chauvoncourt.
This was the last attack made at the point of the salient. Only local
fighting of extreme violence now took place in Apremont Forest, the
result of which was, the French prevented the Germans extending the
salient.
French offensives were launched against the northern and southern sides
of the salient, at Eparges and Prêtre Wood, in the hope of narrowing the
salient and forcing the Germans to evacuate it. Eparges Crest was
conquered after more than two months of the fiercest possible fighting,
ending on April 9, 1915.
[Illustration: ST. MIHIEL SALIENT, FROM OCT., 1914, to SEPT., 1918]
However, these local actions were insufficient, and little by little the
line became fixed. Both sides entrenched themselves and bombarded each
other unceasingly, while the sappers carried out long and strenuous
mining operations. Attacks were henceforth confined to small local
objectives: a wood, house, bridge or crater, and it required the great
American offensive of September, 1918, to flatten out this salient
which, for four years, had formed a huge “pocket” inside the French
lines.
The Salient during the Battle of Verdun
The German offensive, which began on February 21, 1916, caused a slight
withdrawal along the whole of the French Verdun-Nancy line (_see the
Michelin Illustrated Guide_: “Verdun”). The French line was withdrawn
behind Fresnes, passing thence round Eparges Crest, which formed a
hinge.
After the French counter-offensive of July-September, 1917, which
disengaged Verdun and the immediate vicinity, their positions were
further improved by a series of local operations at Eparges and around
Pont-à-Mousson.
[Illustration: ON BEAUMONT HEIGHTS
_Gen. F. E. Bamford, commanding the American 2nd Brigade, watching the
advance of his troops before Beaumont, Sept. 12, 1918._]
THE AMERICAN OFFENSIVE OF SEPTEMBER, 1918
It has been seen in the _Michelin Illustrated Guide_: “The Americans in
the Great War,” Vol. I., that the 1st and 3rd American Corps, under the
respective commands of Major-Generals Liggett and Bullard, reached the
Vesle at the beginning of August, 1918. General Pershing’s intention at
that time was to use these two army corps to form the American First
Army which, under his personal command, was to relieve the French 6th
Army (General Degoutte). However, the Germans having given proof of
their intention to defend the Vesle line at all cost, Marshal Foch
decided to attack at another point of the front, and entrusted the task
of flattening out the salient to the American Army.
[Illustration: FLIREY VILLAGE (_Sept. 14, 1918_)
_American Sappers pulling down the walls of the ruined houses to fill in
the German trenches across the roads in the salient._]
This operation had already been carefully studied by the American Staff,
for it was in this region that the first American divisions were trained
in active warfare.
The 1st Division was holding the sector extending from Ailly Wood to
Mortmare Wood, when it was relieved by the 26th Division on April 2,
1918, and despatched to the Somme, where it covered itself with glory by
the capture of Cantigny. On April 20, the 26th Division withstood a
powerful surprise attack at Seicheprey, where, after losing part of the
village, it succeeded in fully re-establishing its front. On July 10, it
was sent from the Woëvre district to take part in the Battle of the
Ourcq.
From January, 1918, the 2nd Division held that part of the front lying
between Eparges and Spada Pass, where it received a thorough training,
the effects of which the Germans were destined to feel around
Château-Thierry in June, 1918.
On August 30, General Pershing took over the command of the First Army,
with Headquarters at Ligny-en-Barrois. At that time, the front line of
the salient ran as follows: from Eparges Crest it descended in an almost
straight line to St. Mihiel, along the Meuse Heights; passing thence
round St. Mihiel, the great bend in the Meuse and the Camp-des-Romains,
it described a vast semicircle; then turning sharply eastwards, it
proceeded towards Pont-à-Mousson, passing through the woods of Apremont,
Ailly, Mortmare and Le Prêtre.
The total length of the salient front was about 65 km., and its width
along the German lines between Eparges and Regniéville (near Prêtre
Wood) about 39 km. It penetrated the French lines to a maximum depth of
22 km.
[Illustration: ST. MIHIEL SALIENT PRIOR TO THE OFFENSIVE OF SEPT., 1918
_It measured 39 km. across its greatest width, 22 km. in depth, and
about 65 km. along its front._]
Since 1916 this important salient had been fairly quiet, and beyond
intermittent bombardments—which showed that the lines on both sides
were defended and that the artillery was on the alert—and a few local
attacks, the communiqués had nothing to report. This salient, however,
greatly hampered the French lines of communication, cutting as it did
the railway between Verdun and Toul. This line, which runs as far as
Epinal and Belfort, linked up these four great eastern fortresses before
the war.
The Defences of the Salient
(_See map below._)
Through aerial observations and prisoners taken during raids, the
American High Command knew that the enemy possessed several lines of
defences, one behind the other, in the salient, and that beyond the
first line of trenches facing the front was a second line known as the
Schroeter Zone, which formed a second salient about 5 km. within the
first. This line began north-east of Eparges, and went southwards across
the Meuse Heights, then descending eastwards near Varvinay as far as
Buxières, afterwards passing behind the deep valley of the Rupt-de-Mad,
and lastly going in a north-easterly direction through Nonsard,
Lamarche, Beney and Xammes, where it joined up with the Michel line. The
latter formed part of the system of defences known as the _Hindenburg
Line or Kriemhilde Position_—considered impregnable by the Germans, and
of which they said to the Allies: “Thus far, and no further”—and it was
there that the final enemy stand in the salient was to be made.
[Illustration: THE GERMAN DEFENCE WORKS IN THE SALIENT
_The German lines of defence extended in échelons over the whole depth
of the salient, and rested on the zone of the advanced forts of Metz._]
The Opposing Forces
(_See map below._)
Lieutenant-General Fuchs, Commander of the German forces in the salient,
had eight divisions in the line and five divisions of reserves.
These divisions formed part of the forces of General von Gallwitz,
commanding the army group, and it was he who really opposed the
Americans.
On this front General Pershing had four army corps disposed as
follows:—
The 1st Corps, comprising the 82nd, 90th, 5th and 2nd Divisions,
commanded by Major-General Hunter Liggett, operated from Clémery, east
of the Moselle, to Limey.
The 4th Corps, consisting of the 89th, 42nd and 1st Divisions, commanded
by Major-General Joseph T. Dickman, operated from Limey to Xivray.
[Illustration: THE OPPOSING FORCES AT THE BEGINNING OF THE 1918
OFFENSIVE]
To these two Corps was assigned the task of carrying out the main
attack, their objective being the Vigneulles-St. Benoit-Xammes line,
which was to be reached in three successive rushes.
The 5th American Corps, composed of the 26th and 4th Divisions under
Major-General George H. Cameron, and supported by the French 15th
Division, carried out a secondary attack from Mouilly to Watronville,
the objectives being, first the capture of the crests of Eparges and
Combres, then the Combres-Vigneulles line. The Corps was to join hands
in the latter village with the troops engaged in the main attack.
The French 2nd Colonial Corps, first under General Blondlat and
afterwards General Claudel, operated in the centre of the salient, from
Xivray to Mouilly, with orders to protect the flanks of the two American
attacks.
The attacking forces consisted of some 216,000 Americans and 48,000
French, in addition to the American Reserves (190,000 men), who were
ready at a moment’s notice to take part in the battle.
In his official report General Pershing stated that he had mustered a
body of troops three times as large as General Grant’s Army of the
Potomac in 1864–1865.
[Illustration: SHOWING THE AMERICAN-FRENCH ADVANCE FROM SEPT. 12 (12/9)
TO NOV. 11 (11/11), 1918
_Two secondary attacks on Sept. 12 held the enemy at the bottom of the
salient, while the main attacks on the flanks crushed in the latter, as
in the jaws of a vise. On Sept. 13, the Germans, in danger of being cut
off, were forced to evacuate the salient._]
Flattening out the Salient, Sept. 12, 1918
(_See map above._)
Despite all the precautions taken by General Pershing to ensure the
secrecy of his troops’ movements in the St. Mihiel sector, the Germans
expected the attack, and as early as the beginning of September began to
withdraw their heavy guns, and to make active preparations for the total
evacuation of the salient. However, General Pershing did not give them
time to do this, and ordered the attack to be made on September 12, at 5
a.m. for the 1st and 4th Corps, and at 8 a.m. for the 5th Corps.
The attack had been worked out in minute detail, and the time-table of
the advance exactly laid down. Everything took place as arranged. After
an artillery preparation lasting four hours, the American divisions
advanced, supported by a certain number of tanks, half of them driven by
Americans and the other half by Frenchmen. Accompanied by soldiers whose
duty it was to cut the barbed wire, and by men armed with “bangalore
torpedoes,” the Americans advanced in successive waves. They soon
reached the enemy trenches and fell unexpectedly on the demoralized foe
in the middle of a fog.
On September 12 (12/9) the 1st Corps quickly took Thiaucourt, whilst the
4th Corps, operating on the left, advanced beyond Montsec and reached
Nonsard, further north. At the point of the salient, the 2nd French
Colonial Corps gradually attained the objectives assigned to it. The 2nd
Cavalry Division captured more than 2,500 prisoners with a loss of only
fourteen men killed and 116 wounded. At the other end, the 5th American
Corps carried the crests of Eparges and Combres, repulsed a
counter-attack, and quickly joined hands with the patrols of the 4th
Corps at Vigneulles.
On the morning of September 13 (13/9), Generals Pershing and Pétain
entered St. Mihiel. In the evening the new front line ran as follows:
Herbeuville, Thillot-sous-les-Côtes, Hattonville, St. Benoit, Xammes,
Jaulny, Norroy.
It was a fine victory: 16,000 prisoners, 443 guns of all calibres, and
huge quantities of stores and munitions were captured, with a loss of
only 7,000 killed and wounded.
The German retreat continued on September 14 and 15 (14/9 and 15/9) to
the line Fresnes—Hautmont—Rembercourt.
The offensive was finished; the jaws of the vise had closed on the
salient, and the latter had disappeared. From the American advance-posts
the out-works of Metz were now plainly visible, and Wagner Fort,
situated in front of the town, was already under the fire of the
American guns.
German Comments on the Attack
A German report on the American attack of the St. Mihiel salient
contains the following:—“_The Americans made a clever use of their
machine-guns. They are stubborn in defence, and rely greatly upon this
weapon, of which they have large numbers._
“_The artillery preparation, which preceded the attack, was well carried
out. The objectives were efficiently bombarded. The American gunners
were able to change their targets in the minimum of time, and with great
accuracy. The liaison between the infantry and the artillery was
faultless. Whenever the infantry were stopped by a nest of machine-guns,
they immediately fell back, and their artillery promptly shelled the
nest of machine-guns._
“_Numerous tanks were ready, but only a few actually used; the masses of
infantry alone ensured the victory._”
[Illustration: COMRADES IN ARMS
MARSHAL FOCH
GENERAL PERSHING
]
France’s Congratulations
Immediately after the first American successes in the salient, the
President of the French Republic cabled his warmest congratulations to
President Wilson for the victory of “_General Pershing’s magnificent
divisions, fraternally seconded by French troops_.”
The praise was well deserved, as in two days the Americans had liberated
150 square miles of French territory which had been occupied four years
by the enemy.
[Illustration: THE OPPOSING FORCES ON ARMISTICE DAY
_A crushing offensive was on the eve of being launched. The enemy,
incapable of effectual resistance, hauled down their flag and
capitulated._]
St. Mihiel Front from Sept. 15 to Armistice Day
During the great Meuse-Argonne Battle, fought by General Pershing’s
troops after September 26, the operations on the St. Mihiel front were
limited to intermittent bombardments and local attacks.
When the Armistice was signed on November 11, General Pershing was
making dispositions to invest Metz by an offensive towards Longwy with
the 1st Army, and towards Briey with the 2nd Army, while a detachment of
six American divisions was to co-operate on the right bank of the
Moselle with General Mangin’s Army, in an attack on Château-Salins.
Meanwhile, the Germans had already begun to evacuate Metz. The Allies’
advance began on November 10 and 11, but the general capitulation of the
Germans, on terms dictated by the Allies, robbed the Americans of a new
and crushing victory, which would have fittingly crowned their fine
success at St. Mihiel.
A VISIT TO THE BATTLEFIELDS
IN THREE ITINERARIES
[Illustration]
FIRST ITINERARY (_p. 22_)
Distance: 80 km. (_See pp. 23–71_)
=VERDUN to COMMERCY, via Calonne Trench, Eparges, Apremont
Forest, Ailly Wood and St. Mihiel=, including =A VISIT TO ST.
MIHIEL= (_pp. 55–69_)
SECOND ITINERARY (_pp. 72–137_)
Distance: 142 km. (_See pp. 72–137_)
=COMMERCY to METZ, via Pont-à-Mousson=, including
=A VISIT TO PRÊTRE WOOD= (_pp. 102–119_)
=A VISIT TO METZ= (120–137)
THIRD ITINERARY (_pp. 138–145_)
=METZ to VERDUN, via Etain= (_pp. 138–145_)
[Illustration: FIRST DAY—VERDUN TO COMMERCY
_Follow the roads indicated by the continuous black lines, in the
direction of the arrows. See sheets 7 and 12 of the Michelin Touring
Map._]
[Illustration: FAÇADE OF THE HÔTEL-DE-VILLE, OVERLOOKING THE PUBLIC
GARDENS
(_From the Michelin Guide: The Battle of Verdun._)]
FIRST DAY
FROM VERDUN TO COMMERCY
_Leave Verdun by the Rue de l’Hôtel-de-Ville, Rue St. Sauveur, Rue and
Gate of St. Victor (photo below) and N. 3._
_Ten kilometres down this road, Rozellier Fort will be seen on the left.
One kilometre further on, take the strategic I.C. 3, also known as
Calonne Trench, on the right._
[Illustration: VERDUN—ST. VICTOR’S GATE
(_From the Michelin Guide: The Battle of Verdun._)]
[Illustration: CALONNE TRENCH
_French Post of Commandment on the left, about 200 yds. before the fork
in the road to Haudiomont (see sketch map, p. 25)._]
Calonne Trench
This picturesque road enables the tourist to follow the phases of the
struggle which took place in the district of Les Eparges. The road
crosses in an almost straight line the whole forest of Amblonville,
Bouchot Wood, and La Montagne Forest, and comes out about twelve miles
further on at the Hattan-châtel cross-roads. Formerly this road was used
only by poachers, gamekeepers, and shooting-parties, being a well-known
haunt of game.
Calonne Trench will, in future, evoke more tragic memories. The name
“Trench” might lead one to suppose that it dates from the Great War, but
this is not the case. For more than a century the road, cut out of the
crest of the hills, has borne this name. It was made by order of M. de
Calonne, Minister of Finance under Louis XVI., to give access to his
château at the foot of the Meuse hills. This château was destroyed
during the Revolution.
[Illustration: CALONNE TRENCH
_The “Bouée” Post of Commandment, 1 km. after the fork, and 100 yds. in
the wood on the left of the road (see sketch map, p. 25)._]
[Illustration: CALONNE TRENCH
_French Trenches and Observation-Post on the right, before reaching the
road to Eparges (see sketch map, p. 26)._]
It is said that M. de Calonne, hoping some day to entertain the king at
his château, had rose-trees planted the whole length of this road.
However that may be, it is a fact that during the War wild roses were
seen in bloom all along this forest road, at that time really a “trench”
in the military sense of the word.
The battle-front crossed Calonne Trench a little to the south-west of
St. Remy, in Bouchot Wood. Both adversaries bombarded each other and
were kept constantly on the alert by attacks and counter-attacks. In
March, 1915, 5.5–in. naval guns with a range of 13,000 yards were placed
in position, to fire over Les Eparges, behind the enemy lines.
The marines had great difficulty in bringing these heavy guns into
action, owing to the slippery, clayey soil.
Their effective bombardment irritated the Germans so much that on April
20 they bombarded the French lines and, four days later, launched a
massed attack which reached the third line of support.
The marine officers, cut off from their base and unable to communicate
with the infantry—the telephone wires being cut—hastily organised
defences. They swept the ground with the fire of their heavies and some
75’s brought up by hand, which opened at fuse 0.
[Illustration: + _Upper photo, p. 24._
+ + _Lower photo, p. 24._]
[Illustration: CALONNE TRENCH
_On the left: Road to Eparges (impracticable)._]
Meanwhile the Germans continued to advance. On the 25th they were within
a thousand yards of the guns, and only vestiges of the trenches and of
the original barbed wire entanglements lay between them and the guns. On
the 26th, while the marines were preparing a vigorous resistance, two
battalions of French Chasseurs, summoned to reinforce them, crept
through the brushwood and began a counter-attack. On the 27th, the
firing became more distant, but the Germans re-formed and renewed the
attack on May 5. At first they met with some success, but this was
quickly changed by the intervention of the Moroccan Brigade and six
battalions of Chasseurs, who retook in a few hours all the ground lost
on April 24.
Calonne Trench enters the forest almost immediately. On both sides of
the road are numerous engineer and artillery parks, ambulance stations,
shelters, rail-tracks and gun-pits.
_Three kilometres from N. 3 and on the left, 200 yards before reaching
the fork in I.C. 59, which lead to Haudiomont, there is a French Post of
Commandment (photo, p. 24); fifty yards to the right, beyond the fork, a
military cemetery; 1 km. beyond the fork, on the left of the road, a
hundred yards in the wood, the “Bouée” Post of Commandment (photo, p.
24); 2 km. further on, to the left, a French military cemetery._
_Leave the fork of Mont-sous-les-Côtes on the left and follow the road._
[Illustration: + _Photo, p. 25._
++ _Photo, p. 26._]
In the “Taillis de Sauls” the French first lines (trenches, shelters,
dug-outs, barbed wire entanglements and observation-posts) begin; _on
the left_, a military cemetery; _on the right_, a concrete shelter.
[Illustration: ROAD FROM CALONNE TRENCH TO ST. REMY
_German shelters and dug-outs._]
From this point to where the destroyed road to Eparges begins (_photo,
p. 26_) the forest consists of little more than blackened shell-torn
tree-stumps.
_Continue along Calonne Trench which, for 1,500 yards, crosses_ Senoux
Hill. Here the spectacle is appalling, especially on the site of the
German trenches. _Bear to the left and take I.C. 13 towards St. Remy. It
is a bad road, but with care passable._ For 2½ _km. it descends to
the Eparges stream_.
[Illustration: RUINED CHURCH AND VILLAGE OF ST. REMY
_In the background_: Combres Crest (_right_), Eparges Crest (_left_).]
All along this road, cut out of the left side of the hill, are concrete
shelters, dug-outs, underground passages, German posts of commandment,
and a few German graves.
[Illustration: THE CHOIR OF ST. REMY CHURCH
_Note the German stone and concrete Gun Shelter. The Germans bombarded
Eparges from here._]
_In the valley, a cross-road is reached, close to the stream._ _Take the
road to the right to St. Remy_, the ruins of which are seen in the
distance.
_Climb up to the church_ (German graves in the cemetery). Fine extensive
view across the valley towards Combres and Eparges.
In the church, where the altar formerly stood, is a German shelter of
stone and concrete, which concealed a big gun firing on Eparges (_photo
above_).
[Illustration: EPARGES VILLAGE (_coming from St. Remy_)
_On the right_: Montgirmont Hill; _on the left_: Hures Hill.]
_Return to the cross-road and continue along the bottom of the valley_
(_I.C. 54_) _to the village_ of =Eparges.= The road crosses the original
German and French front lines.
[Illustration: EPARGES VILLAGE
_The Cemetery is in front of the last house on the right of the road to
Trésauvaux._]
[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF EPARGES HEIGHTS, SEEN FROM MONTGIRMONT
CREST
A, _The Woëvre_; B, _Trench along Montgirmont Crest_ (_the photo was
taken from here_); C, _Eparges Crest_; D, _Death Ravine_; E, _Shelters
in the sides of Eparges Crest_; F, _Trench_.]
[Illustration: TRENCH IN DEATH RAVINE, 1915]
_Go through the village_, of which only a few walls remain standing.
Numerous French defence works, including some of concrete.
[Illustration: DEATH RAVINE (1915)]
_At the last house the road turns to the right in front of_ a French
cemetery, _and goes towards_ =Trésauvaux=, passing between Montgirmont
Crest _on the right and_ Hures Hill _on the left_ (_photo, p. 28_). All
along the trenches, shelters and numerous graves.
[Illustration]
_At the top of the hill_ the houses of Trésauvaux _come into view_.
_Here leave the car and climb the slopes of Montgirmont_ (trenches,
boyaux, etc.), _from the top of which there is a fine_ panorama of
Eparges on the French side (_photo, p. 29_).
It is a desolate scene. The side of the hill is full of craters and
shell-holes, forming so many grey patches on the reddish earth on which
no vegetation survives. The glorious crest, entirely bare, stands out
against the sky. Death Ravine, where so many brave men fell in the first
assault on Eparges, lies between Montgirmont (_where the tourist
stands_) and Eparges.
Eparges Spur
Eparges Spur, 1,500 yards in length and over a thousand feet high, forms
the end of Woëvre Plain. Its sides are steep and slippery, while
numerous springs and rivulets run down its slopes. It has been rightly
called “a mountain of mud.” Eparges Heights form part of a series of
hills, among which are Hures, Montgirmont, Combres and St. Remy. Of
these, Eparges Crest is the most important. By nature an
observation-post, its possession enabled those who held it to keep all
the surrounding roads under gunfire.
The Germans captured it on September 21, 1914, and immediately made
several lines of trenches between the summit and the valleys. At some
points, five rows of batteries, one above another, were placed, and
nowhere were there less than two.
Facing Eparges Crest, the French held the brow of Montgirmont to the
north, and below, the village of Eparges, only 600 yards from the German
trenches. Between Montgirmont and the northern slopes of Eparges
Heights, an earth track crosses the pass between the two hills. It was
on the western side that, at the end of October, the French began the
attack, sapping step by step, while at the same time they slipped into
the woods on the north-east, which cover the side of the ravine.
From February onward, attacks and counter-attacks took place almost
daily and only came to an end early in April, after the French had
captured the crest. On February 17, the explosion of a mine enabled the
French to enter the west sector of the enemy’s first line. Attacks and
counter-attacks continued for five days, during which Colonel Bacquet
was mortally wounded while leading his troops. The French held the whole
of the western bastion, and began to make progress towards the eastern
bastion. From March 13 to 21 they renewed their attacks and captured the
enemy’s first line.
[Illustration: EPARGES IN 1915. SENTRY IN TRENCH]
On March 27, a battalion of Chasseurs made a fresh advance, and on April
5 began the last great attack which was to continue day and night until
the 9th.
Two regiments attacked in the rain, but the muddy ground greatly impeded
their movements, and it seemed at times as if the attack would fail.
In the evening the French occupied some of the trenches, but the use of
aerial torpedoes, which pulverized whole rows of men, and a massed
counter-attack launched at 4.30 on the morning of the 6th, forced them
to give up part of the ground gained in the first advance. On the
evening of the 6th, and throughout that night, in spite of the incessant
rain, the trenches were retaken and the enemy driven back foot by foot,
with a loss of 100 prisoners, including several officers. The French
replied to the German counter-attacks with bayonet charges or barrage
fire. The communicating trenches were bombarded, levelled, or blocked
up. On the 8th, two regiments of infantry and a battalion of Chasseurs
made a fresh bayonet charge. At 10 o’clock the summit and the western
crest were strongly held, and by midnight, after fifteen hours of
strenuous, uninterrupted fighting, almost the whole of the crest was in
the hands of the French.
During the night of the 8th, the relief of the troops was carried out,
but the ground was so muddy that men sank into it, stumbling and
slipping at every step. Fourteen hours passed in blinding rainstorms
before the fresh troops were established in position. At 3 o’clock in
the afternoon of the 9th the attack was resumed. The ground was full of
deep holes in which men sometimes disappeared. At the moment when the
eastern edge of the plateau was reached a cloud of fog descended over
the crest. Firing was out of the question. The Germans counter-attacked
and forced the French to retreat momentarily, but half an hour later the
French retook the lost ground in a furious charge, and by 10 o’clock at
night held the whole of the Eparges Heights. Only Combres Hill,
threatened by the machine-guns of Eparges and St. Remy, remained in the
hands of the Germans.
The enemy had left nothing undone to put the position in a state of
defence. Their cave-shelters contained a narrow-gauge railway, sleeping
quarters, and even an officers’ club. Their relief reinforcements were
concealed from the French, while their cannon and machine-guns were
unceasingly turned on the muddy slopes up which the French laboriously
climbed. Unwounded men were drowned in the mud, while many of the
wounded could not be rescued in time from the quagmires into which they
had fallen.
[Illustration: EPARGES IN 1915. POST OF COMMANDMENT IN THE SIDE OF THE
CREST]
The victory of Eparges has been described as “a work of giants.” But it
was a costly victory. Most of the officers and thousands of men fell.
The German losses were at least as heavy as those of the French.
_Return to the Trésauvaux road._ The village of =Trésauvaux=, the ruins of
which were organised militarily by the French (_photo, p. 34_), _is
reached shortly afterwards_.
[Illustration: EPARGES IN 1915
_Making rings at the entrance to a dug-out during a lull._]
[Illustration: TRÉSAUVAUX VILLAGE]
_Follow I. C. 54 to_ =Fresnes-en-Woëvre=, the houses of which are seen in
the distance. _Go through the ruined village_ (_photos, p. 35_). The
statue of General Margueritte has been severely damaged, while the
church is entirely in ruins.
_Leaving Fresnes, take the Manheulles road (G.C.D. 7) on the left, which
joins N. 3, 2½ kms. further on._
[Illustration: THE SQUARE, TRÉSAUVAUX, IN 1915]
[Illustration: FRESNES-EN-WOËVRE CHURCH, AUG. 11, 1915]
[Illustration: FRESNES-EN-WOËVRE. MUTILATED STATUE OF GEN. MARGUERITTE]
[Illustration: GERMAN POST OF COMMANDMENT AT ENTRANCE TO MANHEULLES
VILLAGE (_see P. 36_)]
_Continue as far as_ =Manheulles=, _where there are numerous military
works_, including concrete blockhouses and a German post of commandment
_established in the first house on the right at the entrance to the
village_. The ground-floor of this house, which appears to be an
absolute ruin, is lined throughout with concrete (_photo p. 35_).
Several concrete shelters have been added outside, on the front facing
Woëvre Plain.
[Illustration: MANHEULLES. THE MAIN STREET]
_At the cross-roads, in the middle of the village, stands_ a machine-gun
blockhouse, built of concrete (_photo below_).
_From Manheulles return to Fresnes-en-Woëvre._
_Take G.C.D. 10, which passes through the villages of_ Champlon and
Hannonville (severely damaged), Thillot, St. Maurice and Billy. _Leave
the village of Viéville on the right and, 500 yards further on, take the
road which leads up a steep slope to_ =Hattonchâtel.=
[Illustration: MANHEULLES
_German Machine-Gun Blockhouse of concrete, in the middle of the
village, on left of the road._]
[Illustration: HATTONCHÂTEL CHURCH AND CLOISTER]
Hattonchâtel
Hattonchâtel stands on one of the promontories of the chain of hills
which stretches from Verdun to Toul and which separates the Valley of
the Meuse from the Plains of the Woëvre. It derives its name from a
castle built in the 9th century by Hatton, Bishop of Verdun. The
fortress has long been demolished. The church, erected as a collegiate
in 1328, but united with the Collegiate Church of Apremont in 1707,
remained standing until 1914. Since then it has been damaged by
bombardments, especially the apse and north aisle. The little 15th
century cloister, crossed by a public road, has suffered relatively
little damage.
[Illustration]
The church contained the tomb of G. de Haraucourt, Bishop of Verdun
(16th century), and a remarkable altar piece. They were carried off by
the Germans, but it is hoped that they will be returned.
[Illustration: HATTONCHÂTEL CLOISTER]
The altar-screen, dating from 1523, is the earliest work attributed to
Ligier Richier (_see p. 57_). It rested on a marble altar shaped like an
antique tomb.
[Illustration: CELEBRATED ALTAR-SCREEN, BY LIGIER RICHIER, STOLEN BY THE
GERMANS FROM THE CHURCH OF HATTONCHÂTEL]
This altar-screen, the projecting parts of which were of gold on a blue
background, is divided into three sections, separated by pilasters with
finely moulded bases.
On the central keystone, in the shape of a shield, are the arms of Duke
Antoine of Lorraine. Two medallions between the archivolt and the first
projection of the coping represent St. Peter and St. Paul.
The subjects of the three groups are: on the left, the =Carrying of the
Cross=; Christ, in a long flowing robe, is in the centre, while behind
Him stands Simon the Cyrenian wearing a pointed cap with turned-up
edges; around stands a group of three women, two of whom are easily
recognized—Mary Magdalene with long hair falling over her shoulders,
and Veronica holding the Cloth of the Holy Face. Two executioners
complete the scene.
In the centre of the altar-screen is =The Crucifixion.= In the foreground
is the swooning Virgin supported by St. John. Kneeling at the foot of
the Cross is Mary Magdalene, and opposite her, Stephaton holding the
long reed with a sponge dipped in vinegar. Lastly come the three
soldiers of Pilate, one of whom carries the spear which pierced Christ’s
side. On a pennant held by the second soldier are inscribed the words
which affirm the divinity of Christ: “_Vere hic homo filius Dei erat_.”
The third section of the altar-screen represents the =Burial Scene.= In
the background is a bishop wearing a mitre, and kneeling at his feet a
priest in a surplice. According to custom, the sculptor has here
represented the donor, doubtless Gaucher or Gauthier Richeret, Dean of
the Collegiate Church, whose initials, “G. R.,” frame the blazoned
shield. The bishop is St. Maur, Bishop of Verdun, whose relics belonged
to the Collegiate Church.
[Illustration: THE OLD GUARD-HOUSE OF HATTONCHÂTEL (_before the War_)]
Unfortunate restorations were carried out in 1764 by Cellier Delatour,
whose name appears on the background of the third picture. The date of
the work (“A.D. 1.000.500.23.”) is inscribed on each of the curtains of
the four pilasters which surround it.
The 18th century pulpit is almost intact.
Behind the church there is a fine view over the Heights of the Meuse
towards Apremont.
In the village square is the old guard-house with an arcade, and some
old houses, most of which are uninhabitable.
[Illustration: ENTRANCE TO A TUNNEL IN THE OLD CHÂTEAU (_since destroyed
by fire_)]
At the end of the village, in the direction of Hattonville, are the
ruins of the old château. The cellars served as bomb-proof shelters,
the walls being several yards thick.
From the terrace of the château is seen the immense Plain of
Woëvre—partly occupied by the Germans from September, 1914.
The Woëvre Plain
The Woëvre forms a district by itself, geologically rather than
geographically, and corresponds approximately to the “_pays vabrensis_”
of the Merovingians. It lies between the Heights of the Meuse and
Moselle. The soil of marl and clay becomes a slough after rain, and
numerous pools and hidden sheets of water, known locally as
“_gorittis_,” “_noues_,” or “_crachettes_,” make the ground slippery and
treacherous.
Here may be followed step by step the stages of the Franco-American
offensive of September, 1918 (_see pp. 18–20_), which reduced the whole
salient of St. Mihiel, and advanced the lines several kilometres to the
out-works of the Forts of Metz, thus placing the Allied forces in strong
positions in readiness for the new offensive planned for November 16,
which the signing of the Armistice on November 11 prevented from being
carried out to overwhelming victory.
[Illustration: VIGNEULLES
_Entrance to concrete shelter near the Church, at the side of the
road_.]
_After visiting Hattonchâtel, proceed to_ =Vigneulles= _by a road which
describes a large loop_.
_Leaving Hattonchâtel_, a German cemetery _will be seen on the left,
beside the village cemetery_.
Vigneulles is a country town of considerable importance, built on the
western fringe of the Woëvre Plain, at the foot of the chain of hills
which separates the latter from the Valley of the Meuse. In the original
plan of mobilisation it was to be the main French Headquarters.
Numerous houses have been destroyed.