CHAPTER IV.

_The Two Elizabeths._

IF the English autumn be sad, and the English spring be sour, the

smiling beauty of the English summer should expel the memory of gloom

and acerbity from the mind of the tourist who is not afflicted with

bronchitis. In England they make the _ch_ very hard, and pronounce the

_i_ in the second syllable as in _kite_. They ought to know all about

bronchitis, for it lurks in every whiff of east wind, and most of the

vanes have rusted upon their pivots in their steadfast pointing to that

quarter.

The east wind is not necessarily raw. It was bracing, and the sky blue

as that of Italy, when we took a Fourth of July drive of nine hours

through the fairest portion of the Isle of Wight. The Tally-Ho was a

gorgeous pleasure-coach, all red and yellow. The coachman and guard

were in blue coats and brass buttons, red waistcoats, and snowy leather

breeches, fitting like the skin; high top-boots and cockaded hats.

We had four good horses, the best seats upon the top of the coach,

a hamper of luncheon, and as many rugs and shawls as we would have

taken on a winter voyage across the Atlantic. There were opaline belts

of light upon the sea, such as we had seen from Naples and Sorrento,

passing into pearl and faintest blue where the sky met and mingled

with the water. Hundreds of sails skimmed the waves like so many

white gulls. Here and there a steamer left a dusky trail upon the air.

Three were stationary about a dark object near the shore. It looked

like a projecting pile the rising tide might cover. The _Eurydice_, a

school-ship of the Royal Navy, had foundered there in a gale six weeks

and more agone, carrying upwards of three hundred souls down with her.

Day by day these government transports were toiling to raise her and

recover the bodies of the boys. A week after we left the island they

succeeded in dragging up the water-logged hulk. Only eighteen corpses

were found. The sea had washed off and hidden the rest.

England is a garden in June, July, and August. The Isle of Wight

is a fairy parterre, set with such wealth of verdure and bloom as

never disappoints nor palls upon the sight. The roads are perfect

in stability and smoothness, and whether they lie along the edge of

the cliffs, or among fertile plains besprinkled with villages and

farm-buildings, with an occasional manor-house or venerable ruin,

are everywhere fringed by such hedges as flourish nowhere else so

bravely as in the British Isles. The hawthorn was out of flower, but

blackberries whose blossoms were pink instead of white, trailing

briony, sweet-brier, and, daintiest and most luxuriant of all, wild

convolvulus, hung with tiny cups of pale rose-color—healed our regrets

that we were too late to see and smell the “May” in its best-loved home.

We lunched at Blackgang Chine, spreading our cloth upon the heather

a short distance from the brow of the cliff, the sea rolling so far

below us that the surf was a whisper and the strollers upon the beach

were pigmies. The breadth—the apparent boundlessness of the view were

enhanced by the crystalline purity of the atmosphere. In standing

upon the precipice, our backs to the shore, looking seaward beyond the

purple “Needles” marking the extremest point of the sunken reef, we had

an eerie sense of being suspended between sky and ocean;—a lightness of

body and freedom of spirit, a contempt for the laws of gravitation, and

for the Tally-Ho as a means of locomotion, that were, we decided after

comparing notes among ourselves, the next best thing to being sea-fowl.

The principal objects of interest for the day were Carisbrooke Castle

and Arreton. Next to the Heidelberg Schloss, Carisbrooke takes rank, in

our recollection of ruins many and castles uncountable, for beauty of

situation and for careful preservation of original character without

injury to picturesqueness. The moat is cushioned with daisied turf, but

we crossed it by a stone bridge of a single span. Over the gateway is

carved the Woodville coat-of-arms, supported on each side by the “White

Rose” of York. The arch is recessed between two fine, round towers. The

massive doors, cross-barred with iron, still hang upon their hinges.

Passing these, we were in a grassy court-yard of considerable extent.

On our left was the shell of the suite of rooms occupied by Charles

I. during his imprisonment here, from November 13, 1647, until the

latter part of the next year. Ivy clings and creeps through the empty

window-frames, and tapestries walls denuded of the “thick hangings and

wainscoting” ordered for the royal captive. The floors of the upper

story have fallen and the lower is carpeted with grass. Tufts of a

pretty pink flower were springing in all the crevices. Ferns grew rank

and tall along the inside of the enclosed space. High up in the wall

is the outline of a small window, “blocked up in after alterations,”

according to the record. Through this the king endeavored to escape

on the night of March 20, 1648. Horses were ready in the neighborhood

of the Castle, and a vessel awaited the king upon the shore. A brave

royalist came close beneath the window and gave the signal.

“Then”—in the words of this man, the only eye-witness of the scene—“His

Majesty put himself forward, but, too late, found himself mistaken.”

Charles had declared, when the size of the aperture was under

discussion, “Where my head can pass, my body can follow.”

“He, sticking fast between his breast and shoulders and not able to

get backward or forward. Whilst he stuck I heard him groan, but could

not come to help him, which, you may imagine, was no small affliction

to me. So soon as he was in again—to let me see (as I had to my grief

heard) the design was broken—he set a candle in the window. If this

unfortunate impediment had not happened, his Majesty had certainly then

made a good escape.”

The Stuarts were a burden to the land, as a family; but we wished the

window had been a few inches broader, and exile, not the block, the

end of fight ’twixt king and parliament, as we walked up and down the

tilt-yard converted into a promenade and bowling-green for the prisoner

while Colonel Hammond was governor of the Castle. Here Charles paced

two hours each day, the wide sea and the free ships below him; in plain

sight the cove where the little shallop had lain, at anchor, the night

of the attempted rescue.

“He was not at all dejected in his spirits,” we read; “but carried

himself with the same majesty he had used to do. His hair was all gray,

which, making all others very sad, made it thought that he had sorrow

in his countenance which appeared only by that shadow.”

In further evidence of his unbroken spirit in this earliest

imprisonment, we have the motto “_Dum spiro, spero_,” written by

himself in a book he was fond of reading. Without divining it, he was

getting his breath between two tempests. That in these months all that

was truly kingly and good within him was nourished into healthy growth

we gather, furthermore, in reading that “The Sacred Scriptures he most

delighted in; read often in Sand’s Paraphrase of King David’s Psalms

and Herbert’s Divine Poems.” Also, that “Spenser’s Faerie Queen was the

alleviation of his spirits after serious studies.”

The Bowling Green is little changed in grade and verdure since the

semi-daily promenade of the captive monarch streaked it with narrow

paths, and since his orphaned son and daughter played bowls together

upon the turf two summers afterward. The sward is velvet of thickest

pile. There is an English saying that “it takes a century to make a

lawn.” This has had more than two in which to grow and green.

We were glad that another party who were with us in the grounds were

anxious to see an ancient donkey tread the wheel which draws up a

bucket from the well, “144 feet deep, with 37 feet of water” in a

building at the side of the Castle. While they tarried to applaud

“Jacob’s” feat, we had a quiet quarter of an hour in the upper chamber,

where, as a roughly-painted board tells us, “THE PRINCESS ELIZABETH

DIED.”

Who (in America) has not read the narrative, penned by the

thirteen-year-old child, “_What the King said to me 29^{th} of January

last, being the last time I had the happiness to see him_”? The

heart breaks with the mere reading of the title and the fancy of the

trembling fingers that wrote it out.

Her father had said to her, “But, sweetheart, thou wilt forget what

I tell thee!” “Then, shedding abundance of tears, I told him that I

would write down all he said to me.”

We knew, almost to a word, the naïve recital which was the fulfilment

of the pledge. We could not have forgotten at Carisbrooke that her

father had given her a Bible, saying: “It had been his great comfort

and constant companion through all his sorrows, and he hoped it

would be hers.” She had been a prisoner in the Castle less than a

week when she was caught in a sudden shower while playing with her

little brother, the Duke of Gloucester, on the Bowling Green. The

wetting “caused her to take cold, and the next day she complained of

headache and feverish distemper.” It was a poor bed-chamber for a

king’s daughter (with one window, a mere slit in the wall, and one

door), in the which she lay for a fortnight, “her disease growing

upon her,” until “after many rare ejaculatory expressions, abundantly

demonstrating her unparalleled piety, to the eternal honor of her own

memory and the astonishment of those who waited upon her, she took

leave of the world on Sunday, the 8th of September, 1650.”

That was the way the chaplain and the physician told the story—such a

sorrowful little tale when one strips away the sounding polysyllables

and cuts short the windings of the sentences!

The warden’s wife was, we know, one of “those who waited upon her.”

Hireling hands ministered to her through her “distemper.” In the scanty

retinue that attended her to Carisbrooke was one “Judith Briott, her

gentlewoman.” We liked to think she must have loved her gentle little

mistress. It is possible her tending was as affectionate as the care

she might have had, had the mother, to whom the father had sent his

love by the daughter’s hand, been with her instead of in France, toying

(some say) with a new lover. Yet the child-heart must have yearned for

parents, brothers and sisters. On that Sunday morning, an attendant

entering with a bowl of bread-and-milk, discovered that the princess

had died alone, her cheek pillowed upon the Bible—her father’s legacy.

That small chamber was a sacred spot where we could not but speak low

and step softly. It is utterly dismantled. When draped and furnished

it may not have been comfortless. It could never have been luxurious.

A branch of ivy had thrust itself in at the window through which her

dying eyes looked their last upon the sky. Caput reached up silently

and broke off a spray. As I write, it climbs up my window-frame, a

thrifty vine, that has taken kindly to voyaging and transplanting. To

me it is a more valuable memento than the beautiful photograph of the

monument erected to Princess Elizabeth’s memory in the Church of St.

Thomas, whither “her body was brought (in a borrowed coach) attended

with her few late servants.”

Yet the monument is a noble tribute from royalty to the daughter of a

royal line. The young girl lies asleep, one hand fallen to her side,

the other laid lightly upon her breast, her check turned to rest

upon the open Bible. The face is sweet and womanly; the expression

peacefully happy. “_A token of respect for her virtues, and sympathy

for her misfortunes._ _By_ VICTORIA R., 1856.” So reads the inscription.

Imagination leaped a wide chasm of time and station in passing from

the state prison-chamber of Carisbrooke to the thatched cottage of The

Dairyman’s Daughter; from the marble sculptured by a queen’s command,

to the head-stone reared by one charitable admirer of the humble piety

of Elizabeth Walbridge. To reach the grave we had to pass through

the parish church of Arreton. It is like a hundred other parish

churches scattered among the byways of England. The draught from the

interior met us when the door grated upon the hinges, cold, damp, and

ill-smelling, a smell that left an earthy taste in the mouth. Beneath

the stone flooring the noble dead are packed economically as to room.

The sexton, who may have been a trifle younger than the building, spoke

a dialect we could hardly translate. The church was his pride, and

he was sorely grieved when we would have pushed right onward to the

burying-ground.

“Ye mun look at ’e brawsses!” he pleaded so tremulously that we halted

to note one, on which was the figure of a man in armor, his feet upon a

lion couchant.

“Here is ye buried under this Grave

Harry Haweis. His soul GOD save.

Long tyme steward of the Yle of Wyght.

Have m’cy on hym, GOD ful of myght.”

The date is 1430.

Another “brass” upon a stone pillar bears six verses setting forth the

worthy deeds of one William Serle:

“Thus did this man, a Batchelor,

Of years full fifty-nyne.

And doing good to many a one,

Soe did he spend his tyme.”

“An’ ye woant see ’e rest?” quavered the old sexton at our next

movement. “’E be foine brawsses! Quawlity all of um—’e be!”

Seeing our obduracy, he hobbled to the side-door and unlocked it, amid

many groans from himself and the rusty wards. The July light and air

were welcome after the damp twilight within. In death at least, it

would seem to be better with the poor than the “quality,” if sun and

breeze are boons. The churchyard is small and ridged closely with

graves. The old man led the way between and over these to the last home

of the Dairyman’s Daughter. We gathered about it, looked reverently

upon the low swell of turf. There is a metrical epitaph, sixteen lines

in length, presumably the composition of the lady at whose expense the

stone was raised. It begins:

“Stranger! if e’er by chance or feeling led,

Upon this hallowed turf thy footsteps tread,

Turn from the contemplation of the sod,

And think on her whose spirit rests with GOD.”

The rest is after the same order, a mechanical jingle in pious measure.

It offends one who has not been educated to appreciate the value of

post-mortem patronage bestowed by the lofty upon the lowly. It was

enough for us to know that the worn body of Legh Richmond’s “Elizabeth”

lay there peacefully sleeping away the ages.

We had picked up in a Ventnor bookshop a shabby little copy of

Richmond’s “Annals of the Poor,” printed in 1828. It contained a sketch

of Mr. Richmond’s life by his son-in-law, The Dairyman’s Daughter,

The Negro Servant, and The Young Cottager, the scene of all these

narratives being in the Isle of Wight. We reread them with the pensive

pleasure one feels in unbinding a pacquet of letters, spotted and

yellowed by time, but which hands beloved once pressed, and yielding

still the faint fragrance of the rose-leaves we laid away with them

when the pages were white and fresh. We, who drew delight with

instruction from Sunday-School libraries more than thirty years back,

knew Elizabeth, the “Betsey” of father and mother, better than we did

our next-door neighbors. Prima and Secunda, allured by my enthusiasm

to read the book, declared that her letters to her spiritual adviser

“were prosy and priggish,” but that the hold of the story upon my heart

was not all the effect of early association was abundantly proved by

their respectful mention of her humble piety and triumphant death.

By her side lies the sister at whose funeral Legh Richmond first met

his modest heroine. In the same family group sleep the Dairyman and his

wife. “The mother died not long after the daughter,” says Mr. Richmond,

“and I have good reason to believe that GOD was merciful to her and

took her to Himself. The good old Dairyman died in 1816, aged 84. His

end was eminently Christian.”

Elizabeth died May 30, 1801, at the age of thirty-one.

“Pardon!” said a foreign gentleman, one of the party, who, seeing Caput

uncover his head at the grave, had done the same. “But will you have

the goodness to tell me what it is we have come here to see?”

“The grave of a very good woman,” was the reply.

Legh Richmond tells us little more. Her love for her Saviour, like the

broken alabaster-box of ointment in the hand of another woman of far

different life, is the sweet savor that has floated down to us through

all these years.

I stooped to picked some bearded grasses from the mound. The sexton

bent creakingly to aid me, chattering and grinning. He wore a blue

frock over his corduroy trousers: his hands and clothes were stained

with clay; his sunken cheeks looked like old parchment.

“’A wisht ’a ’ad flowers to gi’ ’e, leddy!” he said. “’A dit troy for

one wheele to keep um ’ere. But ’a moight plant um ivery day, and ’ee

ud be all goane ’afore tummorrer. He! he! he! ’A—manny leddies cooms

’ere for summat fro’ e’ grave. ’A burried ’er brother over yander!”

chucking a pebble to show where—“’a dit! ’E larst of ’e fomily. ’Ees

all goane! And ’_a_’m still aloive and loike to burry a manny more! He!

he!”

Our homeward route lay by the Dairyman’s cottage, a long mile from

the church. When the coffin of Elizabeth, borne by neighbors’ hands,

was followed by the mourners, also on foot, funeral hymns were sung,

“at occasional intervals of about five minutes.” As we bowled along

the smooth road, Prima, sitting behind me, read aloud from the shabby

little volume a description of the surrounding scene, that might, for

accuracy of detail, have been written that day:

“A rich and fruitful valley lay immediately beneath. It was adorned

with corn-fields and pastures, through which a small river winded in

a variety of directions, and many herds grazed upon its banks. A fine

range of opposite hills, covered with grazing flocks, terminated with

a bold sweep into the ocean, whose blue waves appeared at a distance

beyond. Several villages, churches and hamlets were scattered in the

valley. The noble mansions of the rich and the lowly cottages of the

poor added their respective features to the landscape. The air was

mild, and the declining sun occasioned a beautiful interchange of light

and shade upon the sides of the hills.”

The annalist adds,—“In the midst of this scene the chief sound that

arrested attention was the bell tolling for the funeral of the

‘Dairyman’s Daughter.’”

“A picture by Claude!” commented Caput as the reader paused.

“A draught of old wine that has made the voyage to India and back!”

said Dux, our blue-eyed college-boy.

These were the hills that had echoed the funeral psalm; these the

cottages in whose doors stood those “whose countenances proclaimed

their regard for the departed young woman.” Red brick “cottages,” the

little gardens between them and the road crowded with larkspurs,

pinks, roses, lavender, and southernwood. They were generally built in

solid rows under one roof, the yards separated by palings. There were

no basements, the paved floors being laid directly upon the ground.

Two rooms upon this floor, and one above in a steep-roofed attic, was

the prevailing plan of the tenements. The doors were open, and we

could observe, at a passing glance, that some were clean and bright,

others squalid, within. All, mean and neat, had flowers in the windows.

The Dairyman’s cottage stands detached from other houses with what

the neighbors would term “a goodish bit of ground” about it. To the

original dwelling that Legh Richmond saw has been joined a two-story

wing, also of brick. Beside it the cottage with its thatched roof is

a very humble affair. The lane, “quite overshaded with trees and high

hedges,” and “the suitable gloom of such an approach to the house of

mourning,” are gone, with “the great elm-trees which stood near the

house.” The rustling of these,—as he rode by them to see Elizabeth

die,—the imagination of the unconscious poet and true child of Nature

“indulged itself in thinking were plaintive sighs of sorrow.”

But we saw the upper room with its sloping ceiling, and the window-seat

in which “her sister-in-law sat weeping with a child in her lap,” while

Elizabeth lay dying upon the bed drawn into the middle of the floor to

give her air.

The glory of the sunsetting was over sea and land, painting the sails

rose-pink; purpling the lofty downs and mellowing into delicious

vagueness the skyey distances—the pathways into the world beyond this

island-gem—when we drove into Ventnor. The grounds of the Royal Hotel

are high and spacious, with turfy banks rolling from the cliff-brow

down to the road, divided by walks laid in snowy shells gathered from

the shore. From a tall flag-staff set on the crown of the hill streamed

out, proud and straight in the strong sea-breeze—the STARS AND STRIPES!

We did not cheer it, except in spirit, but the gentlemen waved their

hats and the ladies kissed their hands to the grand old standard,

and all responded “Amen!” to the deep voice that said, “GOD bless

it, forever!” And with the quick heart-bound that sent smiles to the

lips and moisture to the eyes, with longings for the Land always and

everywhere dearest to us, came kindlier thoughts than we were wont to

indulge of the “Old Home,” which, in the clearer light of a broadening

Christian civilization, can, with us, rejoice in the anniversary of a

Nation’s Birthday.

Loitering in Pleasant Paths · 第 4 / 31 章