HARNESS AND PACK ANIMALS.
Whether mules or horses are selected for waggon and cart draught too
much attention cannot be paid to the arrangement and fitting of the
harness they are intended to work in; and, although the pattern will
vary somewhat not only in every country, but in every province, the
traveller passes through, the leading principles remain much the same,
and whether the traces are of rope chain or leather, the office they
perform remains unaltered. Collars, let the pattern be what it will,
require especial care in fitting, as nothing tends more effectually to
disable a harness animal (mule or horse) than a collar carelessly or
injudiciously applied. Every animal in the team should have its own,
and on first selecting the collar for fitting so put it on that the
collar strap can be buckled up to the last hole in the tongue strap.
When you have done this there should be room enough at the bottom of
the collar in front of the animal's chest to pass the open hand when
laid flat freely forward and back between the inside of the collar and
the animal's neck. When new collars are found to fit uneasily and chafe
in particular places, it is a common expedient among mule teamsters
to lay the ill-fitting collar in water, and allow it to soak for the
night; it is then taken out wet and fitted to the animal's neck, to
which it at once adapts itself. Much trouble is often experienced on
long and toilsome expeditions from loss of condition and leanness
of the animals causing the saddles and collars to fit badly and,
consequently, cause severe sores. Take, therefore, plenty of curled
hair stuffing with you, in order that deficiencies in the padding
may be from time to time made good. When a collar is too large to be
adapted to a thin neck by stuffing, it will be well to cut a portion
out of its centre at once, which can be done by first measuring the
excess of space roughly, then take the collar off the animal; lay it on
a board or table, and cut out evenly as much as is thought requisite,
and if on testing the collar it is found still too large, cut out a
little more from each side of the incision until the collar takes
its proper bearing, but take care that a proper medium is observed
regarding the position of the lower end, or bow, of the collar. If it
hangs too far down the movements of the muscles of the shoulder are
interfered with. If it presses too far upwards the windpipe becomes
unduly pressed on. Some persons use what is called "crown pads" for the
top, or ridge, of the neck, under where the narrow portion, or crown,
of the collar rests. These are sometimes made from sheepskin with the
wool on, but it will be better to get some moderately stout but smooth
and soft leather. Cut this into pad pieces, each of which may be 13in.
long and 8in. wide. Make a cut at each end of the pieces about 2-1/2in.
from the end of the pad, extending it to about an inch from the centre.
Then turn your pad, and cut from the opposite side until only the inch
of sound leather remains between the two cuts. Treat the other end of
the pad in the same way, and it will be fit for use.
A very tolerable makeshift collar and pair of hames may be made as
follows: Collect a good quantity of reed, either wheat or marsh reed;
cut off all the heads, or tops, leaving nothing but the clear shafts of
the plant. Make these up in a bundle, and place them to soak in water
for one night. Measure the horse's or mule's neck for size of intended
collar with a piece of cord; lay this on the ground in the form and of
the size of the collar; then close to the string, as it is placed on an
even spot, drive in a double row of long pegs at about 6in. apart; then
proceed to lay in your reed between the two walls of pegs, so disposing
the reeds that too many ends do not appear at any one place; continue
to lay in reeds, working them round the ends of the oval and thumping
them well down in their places, until sufficient substance has been
gained for the fore part of the collar; then, with fine twine, proceed
to bind the reeds firmly together by lashing them spirally. Now make a
second reed collar just as you did the first, only let it be larger and
more bulky; and, with a packing needle and twine, sew the two collars
together, one on the other--that first made on the top. Now try the
united collars on the animal, the large collar being next the shoulder.
See that there is plenty of space below the windpipe in front of the
chest when it is made to fit at both top and bottom. Line the inside
of the bearing or large collar with soft pliant leather laid over a
layer of soft moss, fine cocoa fibre, fur of animals, or anything else
you can get calculated for stuffing purposes. A piece of hide laid on
and sewn wet will cover the outsides of both collars; but whilst it is
drying the hames should be fastened in the groove formed by stitching
the two collars together.
[Illustration]
The hames are made as follows: Get two well-seasoned pieces of
tough strong wood; cut them to the shape of the curve and length of
the collar, and fashion them as shown in the annexed illustration.
A is the trace hame-tug, formed of a loop and several turns
of raw hide; B is the hame strap fork, below which an oblong
square hole is cut for the strip of hide forming the hame strap to pass
through; C is the lower end of the hame cut into hook form, to
admit of its being securely lashed with hide strips to its fellow on
the opposite side.
Breast straps may be used in lieu of a collar and hames.
When starting on an expedition take plenty of harness leather with you.
Raw hide and strips of sinew are admirable for repairs, but good tanned
and curried leather is needed for the harness itself.
The illustration on next page represents a very useful and plain set
of mule harness, and also the way in which a long rope or lasso is
used for securing a refractory mule to the side of a waggon whilst the
harness is being put on. Some mules are so dangerously skilful in the
use of their fore and hind feet, that even an accomplished prizefighter
might view their feats in the art of attack with envy. To guard against
the effects of this objectionable skill, we proceed as follows: Throw
the running noose end of your lasso over the mule's head, and let it
settle well over his neck; then edge him quietly away until he is
standing stem and stern with the waggon on the near or left-hand side;
then, keeping well before your mule, pass the free end of the lasso
between the upper spokes of the near fore wheel; draw out your end by
walking backwards with it, keeping up a steady strain until you walk in
a wide circle well outside the range of mules' heels; slip dexterously
behind the wheel and tail of the waggon, keeping your lasso tight all
the while; then pass your lasso end, from without, inwards between the
spokes of the near hind wheel; haul taut and belay. There are very few
mules that cannot be successfully handled in this way. The guide as
to the proper height of the lasso is given by the point of elbow and
the line of the stifle joint. If the mule is a small one, choose lower
spokes in the wheel than for a tall, long-legged animal.
[Illustration]
[Illustration: A, B]
The adaptation of hames to collars is almost as important as the
fitting of the collars to the animals. Hames are sometimes made of wood
fitted with iron work, but they are far better when made from good
tough wrought iron. Here we again say, beware of "malleable cast."
During the rough work of a campaign hames are constantly getting
broken, particularly at the union of the ring point and the blade
of the hame. The old pattern used by our horse artillery and field
batteries was especially objectionable, as the point of union (shown in
the above illustration at A) was so unmechanically effected
that incessant trouble and constant breakage was the result. We have
submitted to the Horse Guards authorities that which we believe to be
a far more durable and efficient pattern (as shown at B, p.
460). The hames now in use are certainly better than they were at the
commencement of the Crimean war; but those which we used during our
long forced marches in India during the mutiny were very far from being
perfect.
[Illustration: A, B]
We, some time since, invented and patented a very simple contrivance,
by which a fallen or disabled horse or mule could be instantly freed
from the tension of the traces without cutting or unbuckling. The
latter operation, by-the-bye, it is next to impossible to perform,
from the strain on the trace. By the use of our slip (represented in
the accompanying illustration) the trace can be released by turning
up the pendulum (A) until it matches with the slot (B), when it drops
out to the front, and forms a cross handle, like that of a corkscrew,
to draw the lock pin by. The instant the pin is drawn as far as it
can be pulled out, the trace is detached from the ring of the hame.
The lock pin cannot be lost, as it can only be drawn out to a certain
distance--in fact, just far enough to free the trace from its hold.
Much mischief is done to team animals by having bits of insufficient
substance and solidity. See that they are of sufficient diameter to
prevent cutting, and that they are long enough from cheek to cheek to
prevent pressure on the angles of the mouth and lips. See also that the
bit is so attached to the headstall that the corners of the mouth are
not drawn up by it. Let the throat latch be long enough to see plenty
of daylight under, or, by drawing on the headstall, the poll of the
head may be severely rubbed and a poll evil established. The nature
of this injury will be fully dealt with under the head of "Veterinary
Surgery." If bearing reins are used at all, see that they are slack. A
good store of anti-friction pads will be found of the greatest value
on the march to keep such portions of the harness as are found to rub
the skin of any animal in the team from doing further mischief. These
are made of very soft pliant leather, stuffed with soft curled hair.
Seven inches long by 4-1/2in. wide, and 2-1/2in. thick, will be found a
convenient size. They are secured between the strap causing irritation
and the skin by bits of thong fastened to their backs for the purpose.
Galls from saddles or collars are not unfrequently caused by some
hard and uneven point of bearing. When this is the case, take a long
sharp-pointed instrument, pass it through the leather or woollen, and,
by working it about and pushing in every direction, force the stuffing
back until a cavity much larger than the gall is formed; thump the
covering over and into the cavity well with the round end of a tool
handle until it fits the injured spot without pressure. Never allow
teamsters or drivers to tie knots in straps of any kind with a view
to shortening them. Insist on more holes being punched for the buckle
tongue, or the cutting of the strap to the proper length. Knotted
straps and serious galls go hand in hand. In adjusting your traces to
the swingle trees, see that there is length enough given them when
slack for the swingle tree to reach just sufficiently far down the back
of the hind leg to cross half-way between the point of the hock and
the hollow of the heel. As the trace is tightened, there will then be
enough space for the animal to move his legs freely in. Watch him as
he walks off, and see that nothing touches him behind at full stride.
There are more kickers made by ill-adjusted swingle trees than any
other cause. The weaker the animal is, the more liable he is to get his
hind legs battered by the bar, as he lacks spirit and energy to keep
well clear of it. The bar is, however, his enemy from that time, and it
is difficult to make him forget past sorrows.
[Illustration]
{Chains and links.}
Waggon chains of one sort and another often snap when it is highly
inconvenient to repair them. Keep, therefore, in your "odd and end" box
a good number of union links, made as shown in the above illustration.
They are forged rather flat, stouter in proportion than the chain they
are intended to unite, in order to guard them against opening. A
leather thong or tie, with a toggle end, is passed through the slots
at the two ends of the union, in order that the links may not come out
when the chain is slack. The looped ends of ropes are conveniently
attached to chains, or chains to standing rings, by these union links.
The illustration on p. 462 represents one of them uniting the ends of
two chains.
{Pack animals.}
Pack animals are of the greatest service and value to the explorer,
as they travel easily through tracts of country which are impassable
for wheeled carriages of all descriptions. Horses, ponies, mules,
donkeys, oxen, elephants, camels, dromedaries, lamas, goats, and dogs
are all, more or less, used as pack animals in different countries;
and no two can be found in which the pack saddle and its gear will
exactly correspond. The nature of the ground to be passed over, and the
description of load to be carried, will in great measure call for some
special arrangement in the form and adjustment of the gear. For the use
of a well-organised exploring or hunting party, provided with horses or
mules, we know of no pack saddle equal to that described and figured at
pp. 25 and 36. Saddles of this description, although admirably adapted
for carrying the well-made and evenly-formed bags of the explorer,
would not answer to the requirements of the professional packer, who
carries objects of every imaginable shape, from a bundle of pick-heads,
or a case of bottled ale, to a barrel of powder. For the safe transport
of such matters as these no saddle is better than the Hispano-American
pack saddle.
No people in the world understand the management and packing of mules
as well as the Spaniards and their descendants. The foundation of the
Spanish pack saddle may be said to be the "aparejo," which is, so
to speak, a framework for the back of the mule composed entirely of
hide. Its form is represented at A in our illustration entitled "Horse
Equipments." Each side flap of the aparejo is composed of a double
layer of hide, with space sufficient between the layers to introduce an
efficient stuffing of hay, dry moss, fibre, or other stuffing material.
The cushions or side pads, when stuffed, should be about 3ft. 8in. long
by 2ft. 8in. wide. Each flap and side cushion will thus constitute one
side of the saddle body. These, when stitched together at the top, will
form a sort of hollow ridge within which the backbone will rest free
from pressure and friction. The aparejos of the Andalusian muleteers
who, with their mules, accompanied us from Spain to the Crimea had
layers of small twigs disposed between the stuffing of the panels and
the covering of hide, so that the "riata," or rope used in securing the
load, was prevented from cutting grooves in the padding. Each of these
aparejos weighed, when new and dry, 35lb. On the inside of each cushion
leather a hole is left, through which the material constituting the
stuffing can at any time be got at. The careful packer will constantly
avail himself of this orifice, in order that such portions of stuffing
as may become shifted and worked up into hard lumps by the movements
consequent on travel may be redistributed and evenly disposed of. The
above illustration represents this aparejo when placed on the back of
the mule.
[Illustration]
Next the skin of the animal is placed a piece of soft well-washed
canvas, 4ft. 6in. square; on this is then laid three layers of thick
woollen blanket; on these layers, the true saddle cloth--the "corona"
of the packers. This is made of stout woollen cloth, with fringed,
worked, and ornamented borders. The corners of each of these cloths
bear on them the letter or number of the mule to which it belongs. When
removed from the mule, it is placed with the saddle gear on or under
the aparejo, so that every mule can be at once fitted with his own
trappings.
[Illustration: GROUP OF HARNESS.]
To secure the aparejo, and the cloths beneath it, to the mule's back,
a wide girth, called a "synch," is used. This may be composed either
of hide, grass, cloth, or common sail canvas doubled. Its edges should
be sewn in a broad hem. The width may be about 13in., and the length
not sufficiently great to go round the mule's body, over the aparejo
and cloths under it. One end of this girth has a ring sewn into it, and
the other a bent stick of natural growth, as shown at B in
full-page illustration of "Horse Equipments." To tighten the synch by
drawing the two ends together, a long strip of well-greased thong is
used. This is passed several times through both ring and wooden eye,
after one end has been made fast. By powerful and continuous hauling
on the free end, the ring and eye are at length drawn close enough
together below the saddle to make all secure. A loop is then formed in
the free end, and the bow pulled under the forward and back lashings
of the thong. When the synch is to be relaxed, it is only necessary to
pull on the free end to set all free.
{Pack ropes and saddles.}
Two ropes are used for lashing on the load. One is called the "riata,"
and should be of pliant, evenly-spun 2-1/2-in. rope, 70yds. long; the
second, or sling rope, is best made of stout patent sash line. Forty
feet will be found long enough for a sling rope. No written directions
or pictorial illustration will give the least idea how to lash fast
the heterogeneous objects constituting a general pack load; nothing
but experience and ingenuity in the handling of rope will ever teach
the traveller how to form the intricate spider-web-like lashing,
interlacing, and cross-binding, which by a professional Spanish or
Mexican packer are woven until as tense as a harp string.
{Cross-tree saddles.}
The Hudson's Bay Company and many traders and explorers in North West
America make use of the so-called cross-tree saddle for transporting
their peltries and stores. One of these is shown at C in our
full-page illustration representing "Horse Equipments." The girth
for that description of saddle has two sets of holes made in it, so
that the ends may be laced together by the use of a strip of hide,
represented at D.
{Tightening harness.}
A good number of narrow flat battens of tough wood and bundles of
twigs will be found very useful for placing between the load ropes and
load, as in the case of bags containing soft substances, or articles
likely to be crushed in, a groove is at once formed by the tension
of the strained rope, and without some interposing medium no little
mischief is done. When a rope is found loose from any cause, it can be
tightened by thrusting a short curved stick into the loop formed by the
slack part, when, by twisting the lever round and round, the required
tension is soon gained. When packing a mule or adjusting a disarranged
pack it is well to partially blindfold the animal. This is done by the
Spaniards by the use of a contrivance called a "tapajo," represented
at E in the full-page illustration of "Horse Equipments."
The hind strap of this is placed behind the ears, just as the head
strap of a halter would be. The leather part hangs before the mule's
eyes, whilst the fringe-like tails hang down at the sides. When not
on a mule's head, the tapajo is used instead of a whip by placing the
forefinger through the ring in its middle.
{Bell mules.}
In travelling through a country tolerably free from large animals of
prey or hostile Indians, it will not be requisite to hobble a large
train of mules during the night, as they will not stray far from the
hobbled bell mare. This animal leads the march by day and keeps the
"mulada" together at night. A gelding not uncommonly takes the place
of the mare as the bearer of the bell. White or grey animals should be
selected to perform this duty. Never, on any account, allow a stud mule
to accompany your band; he rarely thrives, is always ready for a fight,
and is as bad as an enraged wild beast when fairly roused. It is not
wise to work mules hard until after three years old--four, five, and
six are better ages to buy at.
{Hints to mule buyers.}
Examining a strange or ill-tempered mule's teeth with a view to
ascertaining his age is at times rather a risky operation. To do this,
put on a blind, get a halter put on the mule's head; stand well in
against the near fore-shoulder, pass the right hand gently up the neck,
patting the animal as it goes until you are enabled to take a steady
firm grip of the root of the ear with your right hand; then, with your
left, seize quickly, but tightly, on the upper lip and nose. Do this
quickly and resolutely, guarding against a blow from the fore-foot, and
you will probably get a glance of the front teeth, or incisors, and see
if the corner tooth is temporary or permanent.
Another piece of important information will be gained at the same
time, and that is whether the dentition of the upper jaw is free from
deformity. It sometimes happens that both mules and horses are what is
called overhung or parrot-beaked, which simply means that the upper
row of front teeth projects so far beyond the lower that the two rows
can by no effort of the animal be brought in contact. This defect is
often overlooked, but when present is a fruitful source of loss of
condition and consequent weakness, as food, easily gathered by animals
with naturally-formed rows of teeth, is all but lost to the unfortunate
possessor of a parrot-mouth. See, too, that the tongue is perfect.
Mules for packing purposes should not be too large or high on their
legs. Some of those which accompanied us from Andalusia to the East
were 16 hands and over; whilst the great majority of the trains we
worked in Central India were very little larger than common donkeys,
and certainly less than a great many we have seen in Egypt.
The experience of the last American war has shown that the
Hispano-Mexican mules are a most hardy and valuable strain. Speaking
of these animals, the superintendent of the Government mule corral
at Washington says:--"There is in Old as well as New Mexico a class
of mules that are known to us as Spanish-Mexican mules. These mules
are not large, but for endurance they are very superior, and, in my
opinion, cannot be excelled. I am not saying too much when I assert
that I have seen nothing in the United States that could compare with
them. They can apparently stand any amount of starvation and abuse. I
have had these Spanish mules in a train of twenty-five six mule teams,
and starting from Fort Leavenworth, Kansas, on Colonel (since General)
Sumner's expedition in 1857, have travelled to Walnut Creek, on the
Santa Fé route, a distance of 300 miles in nine days, and this in the
month of August. The usual effects of hard driving, I noticed, showed
but very little on them. I noticed, also, along the march, that with a
halt of less than three hours, feeding on grass that was only tolerably
thick, they will fill up better and look in better condition for
resuming the march than one of our American mules that had rested five
hours and had the same forage. The breed, of course, has something to
do with this; but the animal is smaller, more compact than our mules,
and, of course, it takes less to fill him up. It stands to reason that
a mule with a body half as large as a hogshead cannot satisfy his
hunger in the time it would take a small one. This is the secret of
small mules outlasting large ones on the prairies. It takes a large one
so long to find enough to eat when grass is scanty that he has not time
enough for rest or recuperation. I often found them leaving camp in the
morning quite as hungry and discouraged as they were when we halted
the previous evening. With the small mule it is different. He gets
enough to eat quickly, and has time to rest and refresh himself. The
Spanish or Mexican mules, however, are better as pack animals than for
a team. They are vicious, hard to break, and two-thirds of them kick."
These observations of the superintendent are highly practical, and
well worth bearing in mind in the purchase of pack mules. We are of
opinion, however, that there are other qualities to be found in small
well-formed animals, apart from the comparatively small amount of food
required to support them.
Activity, endurance, and muscular power do not, so far as our
experience has enabled us to judge, increase in the ratio of size; and
the great majority of noteworthy and remarkably clever performances
under saddle or pack related by hunters and explorers have been
achieved by animals of comparatively small size. We do not think that
even the English hunter will be found an exception to the rule. Often
have we devoutly wished that it might be our good fortune to possess a
16-hand horse with going and staying qualities, equal in proportion,
size for size, to those of a sturdy, but very tiny cob we were once
'cute enough to select from a drove fresh from the wilds of Bulgaria.
We conceive that a well-formed mule--that is to say with clear bright
eyes, hocks not inclined to give in like those of a cow, stout muscular
haunches, a short back, and dark small compact feet--should, for
average service, be about 14 hands high, and weigh about 8cwt. Avoid
all spotted, dappled, or white mules. These are, among the packers,
known as "painted" or calico mules, and are by no means as hardy as
those of dark uniform colours. Mares are always to be preferred to
horse mules. They are more tractable, and follow the bell mare better
on the march.
{Hints on mule equipment.}
About 140lb. is as much as a mule of average power can travel well with
from day to day. Never start a mule train without looking carefully at
each mule as he passes; and if you see one of them raising his lips and
twitching his mouth and nose depend upon it he is getting galled, and
requires looking to. Particular care should be taken that the halter
heads fit easily across the back of the head, and that, in putting the
halter on, the ears of the mules are not injured or roughly handled.
Nothing makes a mule so shy and disposed to be vicious as sore ears.
The halters used for pack mules are just such as we use in this
country. We, however, prefer leather head collars with ropes attached
to them.
[Illustration]
{Hobbling cattle.}
There are many ways of preventing horses and mules from straying from
the spot at which they are intended to remain. The Indian method of
picketing horses by the use of head and heel ropes is by far the best
and most convenient we have ever had recourse to. The heel hobbles--the
subject of the accompanying illustration--are best made of stout tanned
leather; the inside surface should be lined, and have a slight stuffing
of curled hair put in to prevent friction; one hobble end terminates
in a leather loop; the other, in a leather toggle. The heel ropes
themselves should be made from soft flexible rope (cotton is often
spun into heel ropes); the strands are opened and untwisted to a short
distance, in order that they may be securely stitched fast to each
hobble. At about 6ft. from the hobbles the two heel ropes are spliced
together and form one tail rope, which is secured round a peg driven
into the earth. Two ropes attached to the head collar are also secured
to pegs, as shown in the illustration on p. 471. When on the march each
horse should carry his own head and heel ropes secured in a leather
wrapper behind the saddle.
[Illustration]
Head ropes may be conveniently fastened to the head collar by having
a strap and buckle like that represented at A in the annexed
illustration attached to the end of each rope, if the other end is
finished, as shown at B. One head rope left on when the horse
is equipped for marching forms a convenient head-collar rope, which can
be coiled up and secured as shown at p. 37.
The Cape hunters usually secure their horses during a temporary halt
by the use of the knee halter. The manner of adjusting this is shown
at A in the following illustration. In Australia, the hook
hobbles, figured at p. 33, are adjusted as at B in the illustration
below.
[Illustration: CAPE KNEE HALTER AND AUSTRALIAN HOBBLES.]
It is a common practice in the army to stretch a long rope between
a number of posts, and then secure the horses to it at intervals
by fastening the ends of the head-collar chains. We have seen mule
trains in India fastened in a similar manner to a long cord stretched
out on the ground. Although space is economised by the adoption of
these plans, they lead to an endless number of serious accidents from
kicks, bites, and stake wounds from the splintered posts. The addition
in weight to the present scale of military horse equipment may be,
perhaps, urged as a reason why the head and heel ropes of India have
not been universally adopted by the troops of this country. The result
of our experience is that the very slight addition which is made to
the burden by the strapping on of a pair of light strong head and heel
ropes to the rear of the saddle is a mere mite in the balance when
compared with the constantly recurring and serious evils we have just
referred to.
[Illustration: INDIAN HEAD AND HEEL ROPES.]
{Horses, to tie up.}
If you are without hobbles, your horse or mule may be prevented from
straying far by fastening the fore and hind leg on the same side
together with a piece of rope or a couple of leather belts. The two
fore feet may be hobbled together in much the same manner, allowing
just a short scope for the animal to move one foot before the other.
In countries where the lasso is used either in the form of hide lasso
or hair cabresto (the manufacture of which will be treated of further
on in our work), a horse or mule may be secured by first putting the
noose end over the head and adjusting the neck loop just to fit the
small of the neck easily, and then with the free or trail end taking
a single hitch knot through the loop. This prevents the noose from
running up and strangling the animal should it become suddenly alarmed
and hang back. Mustangs, however, very rarely hang on a lasso after
once experiencing its powers. Never trust the security of your riding
animal, when either hunting or scouting, to either the regulation
head-collar chain or headstall-rope, as, should a sudden alarm from any
cause arise, your steed will in all probability give a sudden snort,
tuck his haunches well under him, get his fore legs well to the front,
give his head a violent shake, with one effort send all your head gear
to the four winds, and go scampering away perhaps for ever. Lassoes
are not so easily broken. If halting among trees or bushes fasten the
trail end to a flexible branch; if there are no bushes, and you have a
peg, fasten the lasso to it. If out on the prairies without a peg, dig
a deep hole in the earth with your knife; tie a large knot in the end
of the lasso, force it to the bottom of the hole, and then stamp the
earth and turf well in over it. On sandy desert ground the lasso end
may be secured to any odd article, such as a bag or blanket, which may
be then deeply buried in the sand. An ox may be conveniently secured
by passing two or three turns of a rope round the roots of the horns
and then making a knot in front. All ropes long enough to admit of the
animal walking and feeding in a moderately large circle should have one
of the forms of wooden swivel before described attached to it in order
to prevent twisting and entanglement.
Should a party of Iceland horsemen wish to halt for a short time,
they place their horses with their heads together, and heels forming
the outer border of the circle; the bridles are then looped and
knotted together. Horses secured in this way cannot stray because no
two animals pull in the same direction. This plan will only answer
with very quiet animals. The entire horses of the East would fight
desperately if thus brought in contact.
{Horses, to lead.}
Large bands of horses may be driven or led in strings fastened head and
tail, or marched on what is called a waggon line. This is a long strong
rope fastened at each end to a cart or waggon, sufficient distance
being maintained between each vehicle to keep the rope moderately
tight. The halters of the horses to be led are fastened at convenient
intervals along the line of the rope, and as the waggons travel so the
horses march in a line. If there are many stores to be transported at
the same time, put them in the rear waggon, as the line of marching
horses aid greatly in drawing the load. An arrangement of this kind is
very convenient when a stampede from Indians is to be dreaded.
{Embarking horses.}
Horses may be conveniently embarked by the use of the sling shown in
the illustration on p. 474. The belly-band is made of very stout sail
canvas, mounted on two straight strong bars of wood. The ropes, which
should be of thoroughly reliable 4-1/2in. or 5in. rope, after passing
round under the edges of the belly-band, are securely fastened to the
ends of the bars, and each terminates in a loop. Four strong rope
loops are secured to the edges of the band for the breast and breech
ropes to pass through. One man holds the horse's head steady by the
halter, and, if requisite, adjusts a blind; two men, one on each side,
pass the rope loops through each other; whilst others bring round the
breast and breech ropes, haul them up tight and double knot them. At
the word "hook on," the hook of a fall working from a derrick is passed
through the upper loop and stopped with a piece of small stuff. At a
given signal the men on board at the tail of the fall, walk smartly
away with it, and the horse moves rapidly aloft guided by two guy ropes
until directly over the hatchway, which should be well padded with bags
of straw. At the signal to lower away, the horse is lowered steadily
to the hold or lower deck, where a deep bed of straw is spread, and
men wait to cast loose and conduct it to the stall allotted for its
reception.
[Illustration: EMBARKATION SLING.]
In regularly-fitted horse transports, boxes are not unfrequently fitted
for the horses to walk into before being lowered in them. Sometimes,
when near the shore, horses are allowed to swim to land.
The management of horses on board ship will be treated of under the
head "Veterinary Surgery."
[Illustration: HOLD ON, ALL!]
{Pack animals and packs.}
Horses and ponies for packing should be of sturdy short-legged, cobby
breed. A full-sized horse's pack for moderately fast and continuous
travelling should not weigh more than about 120lb. A lively well-formed
ox will carry about the same burden. Donkeys will carry from 50lb. to
60lb., according to size and condition. A pair of strong cane or wicker
panniers, with lids made to hinge and lock, and covered with stout
waterproofed duck, will be found very useful for putting in articles
for immediate use. Cooking utensils, food for the day, and a change
of dry garments, are conveniently stowed away in these receptacles.
Beware how you pack a number of rattling, clattering pots, pans, and
kettles loosely on a timid ox's back. Should sudden alarm seize him,
it will most probably lead to such a scene as is represented in the
illustration on the opposite page.
{Camels.}
Camels and dromedaries are frequently most valuable to the traveller;
and, although generally associated with the torrid zone and its
belongings, we see no reason why the camel should not be successfully
acclimatised in many countries in which it is now practically unknown
to the packer and traveller. "Camel Land" has been said to embrace
the Canaries, Morocco, Algiers, Tunis, Tripoli, the Great Desert,
Egypt, Africa, Arabia, Turkey in Asia, Persia, Cabool, Beloochistan,
Hindoostan, Burmah, Thibet, Mongolia, Tartary in Asia, the Crimea,
and a comparatively small tract of country in the neighbourhood of
Constantinople. The camel has been kept and rendered available for
general use on the estates of the Grand Duke of Tuscany, at Pisa, for
very nearly two centuries. Australia and America are, we conceive,
particularly well calculated for the utilisation of the labours of
the camel. The opinion commonly entertained that the camel can only
flourish in tropical lands is most erroneous. The ordinary geographical
range of this animal may be roughly stated as being between 15° and
52° of north latitude, and 15° of longitude west of Greenwich to
about 120° east of it. We have had opportunities of working camels of
the Bactrian, Arabian, and Saundney breeds, under more than common
vicissitudes of both climate and labour; we have ridden, muffled up in
fur helmet and gloves, through the deep snow, where the woolly-coated
Bactrians, crouching behind a sheltering rock, discussed their meal
of coarse steepe hay contentedly, and were hardy to a degree; we have
seen the burden camels of Egypt, under huge loads, trooping across
the dry deserts of that land as if they were in their element; we have
performed over 3000 miles of packing with Indian camels, and have
taken part in most severe forced marches with Saundneys, carrying
two men (an Englishman and a native), a heavy saddle, two sets of
arms, accoutrements, and ammunition, over difficult tracts of country
bordering on the sandy desert regions of Central India.
[Illustration]
{Harnessing camels.}
Although we have seen the camel harnessed much after the manner of an
ox, and used in draught, it will rarely be found of much service to the
explorer when used in harness: as pack animals, camels are invaluable.
A good form of camel pack saddle is given at F in our full-page
illustration of "Horse Equipments"; and the above diagrams will serve
to show how ordinary camel riding saddles may be made. Any strong
tough wood will answer for the uprights and side pieces; the lashings
are of raw hide; the cushions, or pads, of leather, stuffed with wool
or curled hair; the girths are of spun goats' hair; and the breast
strap is a wide band of plaited thongs. Some idea may be formed of the
courage, power, and speed of the camel when we state that, before the
opening of the Suez Railway, the mails were transported on camels'
backs twice per month across the Desert between Grand Cairo and the
head of the Red Sea, a distance of eighty-four miles, without halting,
in about eighteen hours. The weight of each camel-load (four mail
boxes, &c.) was about 300lb.
Few matters of animal nomenclature have led to more confusion and
misunderstanding than the terms "camel" and "dromedary;" and this has
mainly arisen from the distinction laid down by Buffon, who states
that the camel has two humps, whilst the dromedary has only one. If
this point of distinction were correct, there would be no camels in
Egypt, and one would have to travel to Tartary and some remote parts
of Asia to find them; and the dromedary, and that only, would be
found in Turkey, Arabia, Grand Cairo, Africa, and India. Amongst the
Arabs and Egyptians the word "gimel" is applied to all the members of
the genus--the term "dromedary" never being made use of. An animal
used exclusively for riding purposes is called a "hagine". It will,
therefore, be convenient to follow their example, and call a baggage
animal of this family a "camel," and that used for riding purposes a
"hagine." Our space will not admit of our entering on the subject of
camel breeding, or the various crosses of breeds found in different
parts of the world, as, like those of the horse, they would fill a
volume.