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AMID THE HIGH HILLS

* * * * * *

AGENTS

AMERICA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY

64 & 66 FIFTH AVENUE, NEW YORK

AUSTRALASIA THE OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS

205 FLINDERS LANE, MELBOURNE

CANADA THE MACMILLAN COMPANY OF CANADA, LTD.

ST. MARTIN’S HOUSE, 70 BOND STREET, TORONTO

INDIA MACMILLAN & COMPANY, LTD.

MACMILLAN BUILDING, BOMBAY

309 BOW BAZAAR STREET, CALCUTTA

INDIAN BANK BUILDINGS, MADRAS

* * * * * *

[Illustration: SEPTEMBER SNOW, LOCH CARRON, ROSS-SHIRE.

By FINLAY MACKINNON.]

AMID THE HIGH HILLS

by

SIR HUGH FRASER

“But on and up, where Nature’s heart

Beats strong amid the hills.”

RICHARD MONCKTON MILNES.

A. & C. Black, Ltd.

4, 5, & 6 Soho Square, London, W.1

1923

Printed in Great Britain by R. & R. Clark, Limited, Edinburgh.

TO ALL WHO LOVE THE HIGH HILLS, AND

PARTICULARLY TO THOSE--MY DEAR KINSMEN

AND FRIENDS (SOME OF WHOM HAVE

PASSED TO THE GREAT BEYOND)--TO WHOM

I AM INDEBTED FOR MANY HAPPY DAYS

ON HILL, LOCH, AND RIVER.

PREFACE

For many years past from time to time I have contributed articles

on sport and natural history to various journals.

It was recently suggested to me that I should publish these

articles in book form, and I was fortunate enough to have friends

who kindly offered to illustrate them. I have accordingly selected

some of these articles, and have included others which have never

been published before. Amongst the former are some which in the

same or a slightly altered form have appeared in _The Field_,

_Country Life_, _The Scottish Field_, _The Salmon and Trout

Magazine_, and _The Saturday Westminster Gazette_. To the editors

of these journals I tender my warmest thanks for their courtesy

and kindness in allowing me to republish the articles in question.

To my friends, Mr. Finlay Mackinnon, Mr. Vincent Balfour-Browne,

and Mr. Frank Wallace, I am greatly indebted for the pictures in

colour and black and white, and the pencil sketches which they have

contributed.

To my friends and neighbours, Lady Anne Murray of Loch Carron and

Mrs. Schroder of Attadale, my grateful thanks are due--to the

former for the photograph, “Winter Sunshine--Wild Geese at the

foot of Applecross Hills,” and to the latter for the water-colour

drawing, “An Autumn Day--Loch Carron, looking West.”

To my friend, Miss Diana Darling, I am indebted for the photograph,

“Among the Western Islands,” and to my son-in-law, Mr. Noel Wills,

for the pencil sketch of Donald McIver, my gamekeeper and constant

companion on the hill for many years.

I wish to thank Mr. W. R. Bousfield, K.C., F.R.S., for helpful

criticism from the scientific point of view on my article “Birds of

Fastest Flight in the British Isles,” and Mr. A. D. Bateson, K.C.,

for his kindness in reading the book in manuscript.

In conclusion, I should like to say that, having derived so much

pleasure from reading the experiences of others who love sport and

natural history, I venture to hope that these pages may bring back

to some of my readers recollections of their own delightful days

amid the High Hills.

H. F.

STROMEFERRY, ROSS-SHIRE,

_August 7, 1923_.

CONTENTS

PAGE

I. THE CHARM OF SPORT AMID THE HIGH HILLS 1

II. STALKING IN ITS MOST ENJOYABLE FORM 6

III. A GREAT FISH AND A GREATER FISHERMAN 12

IV. THE BIRDS OF FASTEST FLIGHT IN THE BRITISH ISLES 23

V. A GOOD DAY IN THE FOREST OF COIGNAFEARN 71

VI. A STALKER’S PERIL 81

VII. THE LUCK OF SALMON FISHING 85

VIII. A STORMY WEEK IN THE FOREST 97

IX. A SALMON LOCH IN SUTHERLAND 113

X. THE HOMING INSTINCTS OF WOUNDED DEER 123

XI. THE METHOD BY WHICH EAGLES AND HAWKS SECURE THEIR PREY 136

XII. INSTANCES OF WOUNDED STAGS ATTACKING STALKERS 155

XIII. TRAPPED 165

XIV. THE LAST STALK OF THE SEASON 170

XV. THE LOCH PROBLEM 182

XVI. THE SURGEON OF THE DEER FOREST 197

XVII. THE SECRET OF THE HIGH HILLS 215

INDEX 221

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

* _Those marked with an asterisk are in colour._

*September Snow, Loch Carron, Ross-shire. _Frontispiece_

By Finlay Mackinnon.

FACING PAGE

*“The joy of watching deer when they have no suspicion

that they are being watched” 1

By V. R. Balfour-Browne.

Golden Days 4

By V. R. Balfour-Browne.

*“See! from the tops the mist is stealing” 6

By Finlay Mackinnon.

*“The salmon leaped twice straight up into the air” 16

By V. R. Balfour-Browne.

The Peregrine Falcon 26

By V. R. Balfour-Browne.

Winter Sunshine--Wild Geese at the Foot of the

Applecross Hills 36

From a Photograph by The Lady Anne Murray of Loch Carron.

*The Spine-tailed Swift 40

By V. R. Balfour-Browne.

*The Golden Eagle 64

By V. R. Balfour-Browne.

Where the Golden Eagle reigns 68

From a Photograph by Frank Wallace.

*Preparing for Battle 76

By Frank Wallace.

*“Take the fifth, he’s the best” 80

By V. R. Balfour-Browne.

In the Forest of Fannich 82

By Finlay Mackinnon.

“He had the advantage of some inches over my little

grandson, who was nearly five years old” 90

From a Photograph by Mrs. Noel Wills.

*Sligachan, Isle of Skye 96

By Finlay Mackinnon.

“Lying on a ridge we spied some deer” 98

From a Photograph by the Author.

The Five Sisters of Kintail 104

By Finlay Mackinnon.

Old Angus nearing Home 110

By V. R. Balfour-Browne.

The Sanctuary, Kinlochewe Forest 124

By Finlay Mackinnon.

“The trusty allies of our fathers on the hill” 128

By Philip Stretton.

“I was spying for some time” 134

From a Photograph by the Author.

*The Applecross Hills, and a Highland Fishing Village 142

By Finlay Mackinnon.

Death of the Mallard 148

By J. Wolf.

Among the Western Islands 166

From a Photograph by Miss Diana Darling.

*Where Strome Castle looks over the Sea to Skye 168

By Finlay Mackinnon.

*“The big stag is still there” 176

By Frank Wallace.

*An Autumn Day, Loch Carron--looking West 184

By Mrs. Schroder of Attadale.

Sunset on the Shores of Loch Carron 192

From a Photograph by Miss Alexandra Fraser.

*On the Edge of the Deer Forest 200

By Finlay Mackinnon.

In Achnashellach Forest 204

By Finlay Mackinnon.

*Evening Glow, Poolewe, Ross-shire 212

By Finlay Mackinnon.

*“The morning cometh” 218

By Finlay Mackinnon.

Also pencil headings to each Chapter.

[Illustration: “THE JOY OF WATCHING DEER WHEN THEY HAVE NO

SUSPICION THAT THEY ARE BEING WATCHED.”

By V. R. BALFOUR-BROWNE.]

[Illustration: (Grazing Deer)]

I

THE CHARM OF SPORT AMID THE HIGH HILLS

The fascination of deer-stalking is largely due to the romance of

the hill--the hill as it is known only to those who love it and

understand something of its hidden mysteries. The long day, all too

quickly ended, with the silent but sympathetic stalker--alone with

Nature in its most inspiring and elevating form--the ever-changing

beauty of sky and hill--the joy of watching deer when they have no

suspicion that they are being watched--the opportunities of seeing

rare birds and finding rare plants--all these things apart from the

difficulty and interest--and the greater the difficulty the greater

the interest--of trying to outwit--in other words trying to get

within shot of the particular stag one is after--go to make up the

attractions of what some of us think is the very best of true sport.

I well remember a famous statesman, who had himself owned one of

the best deer forests in the Highlands, saying to me that the

greatest attraction of stalking is that it takes one to places

where otherwise one would never go, and enables one to see the most

wonderful things which otherwise one would never see. Further,

there is probably no form of sport where less pain and suffering

are inflicted, assuming that any one who stalks will take the

trouble to know his rifle well, and will not take a long or risky

shot. The shot itself after all plays only a small part in the

pleasure of a day’s stalking. I have friends, first-class rifle

shots, who delight in stalking, and who, when they have arrived

within shot of the stag they have stalked, will sometimes not shoot

at him at all. This would not always be easily accomplished by

those who have strongly implanted within them the instincts of the

hunter, or perhaps I should say the primitive man.

Again, to pass from stalking, what is the real explanation of

the intense enjoyment of ptarmigan shooting on the high tops

after the close of the stalking season? I have more than once

heard this described as the most enjoyable of all kinds of

shooting. As is well known, on a still clear day the ptarmigan

is the easiest of birds to shoot, but on a wild windy day one

of the most difficult--twisting and turning with extraordinary

rapidity. Neither this latter fact, however, nor the exhilarating

and bracing air at the altitude where these birds are to be found

wholly explains the enthusiasm of those who have had this sport. I

have no doubt that the environment of the high hills and all that

this means are largely the cause of this enthusiasm. The delights

of grouse shooting, whether in the case of driven birds, or over

dogs, are greatly increased by the same cause. Without entering

upon the well-worn controversy as to the respective advantages and

disadvantages of these two forms of sport, is there any one who

has enjoyed both of them amid the hills who has not ineffaceable

memories of the vistas of marvellous beauty which he has revelled

in again and again while waiting in his butt for the first birds

of the drive, and--to change the scene--of the pleasures of many a

glorious twelfth in the company of an old friend with whom he was

in perfect sympathy, watching the dogs at work amidst the purple

heather on the side of the hill or along the heather-clad banks of

a burn?

It is true also of salmon and trout fishing in the Highlands that

the angler’s sense of peace and contentment is largely due to the

influence of the hills. This is especially so in the golden days

at the beginning of August, those glorious days before the serious

fun begins, when the trout in the loch are more of an excuse than

a serious ploy, when one discusses the growing antlers of the big

hart on the Home beat, when one basks in the sunshine of the High

Hills.

[Illustration: GOLDEN DAYS.

By V. R. BALFOUR-BROWNE.]

Whilst writing what I have already said about stalking I

recollected the following verses, which I intend to keep and read

for my encouragement in days to come--days which are, I hope, still

very far off:

NORTHWARD BOUND

(ONCE MORE)

Does your heart still beat with the old excitement

As you wait where the Scotch expresses are?

Does it answer still to the old indictment

Of a fond delight in the sleeping-car,

As it did when the rush through the autumn night meant

The Gate of Desire ajar?

Or has the enchanting task grown tougher,

And has that arrow beyond you flown?

For the hill that was rough enough is rougher,

The steepest climb that was ever known,

And the forest appals a veteran duffer

Sorely beaten and blown?

Oh! the years, the years, they be rusty and mothy;

Oh! the flesh it is weak that once was strong;

But the brown burn under the stone falls frothy

And the music it makes is a siren song;

Then the pony’ll take you as far as the bothy,

And that’ll help you along.

See! from the tops the mist is stealing,

Out with the stalking-glass for a spy;

Round Craig an Eran an eagle’s wheeling

Black in the blue September sky.

A fig for the years! Why, youth and healing

At the end of your journey lie.

(Reprinted from _Punch_, Sept. 14, 1921, by kind permission of

the Proprietors.)

[Illustration: (Three Antlered Deer)]

II

STALKING IN ITS MOST ENJOYABLE FORM

By far the most enjoyable form of stalking is to be one’s own

stalker, but this can only be done satisfactorily in a forest with

which one is thoroughly familiar. It is astonishing what tricks the

wind will play in certain corries, and as a result what mistakes

even a good stalker will make in a forest which is new to him.

Moreover, any one stalking by himself, unless he has experience,

may easily make another kind of mistake. He may think that he has

missed a stag when he has in fact killed him. Any one who has had

experience in shooting deer knows that a stag when shot through the

heart will sometimes gallop for forty or fifty yards or even

further and then fall down dead.

[Illustration: “SEE! FROM THE TOPS THE MIST IS STEALING.”

By FINLAY MACKINNON.]

Some years ago, preparatory to a few days’ stalking in a deer

forest in Inverness-shire, I arrived one evening at the Lodge; and

later on about half-past ten there returned from the hill a guest

in a state of great dejection who had never stalked until he went

out in this forest a few days before. I felt very sorry for him,

for he had been keen to secure a good head and said that he had

had a splendid chance of a fine stag standing broadside at about

eighty yards and had missed him. This was his last chance as he

was leaving early next morning. Two days later I was out on the

same beat when the stalker suddenly grasped me by the arm and said,

“There is a stag lying down there to the left of that hill below

us. Are you seeing his horns above the ridge?” We went cautiously

down in the direction of the stag, but had not gone far before we

discovered that the stag was dead. “That,” said the stalker, “must

be the stag Mr. X. shot at two days ago.” We examined the stag

and found that he had been shot apparently through the heart from

the knoll from which X. had taken his shot; it was obviously the

same stag. The stalker then told me that X. wished to stalk the

last hundred yards alone and had asked him to stay behind, that

X. had the shot and came back saying that he had missed the stag.

Neither the stalker nor X. had thought it worth while to look for

the stag. In the case of X., who was a novice at stalking, I was

not surprised, but I was amazed that the stalker had not done so,

although he was young and not very experienced. So X. secured a

good head after all, and no doubt both he and the stalker learnt

a lesson which neither is likely to forget, but at the cost to X.

of much unnecessary misery and humiliation and incidentally to his

host of much good venison.

It is sometimes difficult to be sure what is the result of one’s

shot, and it is a great assistance to have the opinion of an

experienced stalker whether he has his glass on the beast at the

moment the shot is fired or not.

I was coming back one evening after a delightful day’s stalking in

Glen Carron, when the stalker Macdonell said, “One moment, sir,

there is a stag down there just gone out of sight. If you can

shoot off your knee downhill you will have a chance directly.” I

sat down and waited, and in a few minutes the stag appeared. I

believed I was steady and on him in the right place. Directly I

fired he galloped off. “I’m thinking you’d better shoot again,”

said Macdonell. “What’s the use,” I replied, thinking I had shot

the stag through the heart. However, as I spoke, I did shoot again

out of respect to Macdonell, whom I knew to be a very experienced

stalker, and the stag rolled over like a rabbit which has been

shot in the right place. “Now we will see,” I said, “where the

two bullets went.” “I’m thinking,” said Macdonell, “you missed

him the first time.” “You may be right,” I replied, “but I don’t

think so; one thing I know, and that is that if I did and had

known it, I should probably have missed him with my second shot

also.” On examining the stag we could only find one bullet mark,

and on skinning him we found that one bullet only had struck him,

and that was through the heart. Macdonell no doubt thinks to this

day that I missed the stag with my first shot, and killed him with

my second when he was galloping; but I still have my doubts. The

moral is that though one sometimes hears the unmistakable thud of

the bullet striking the stag, there are other occasions when it is

difficult to be certain as to what has happened, and therefore

it is always wise to satisfy one’s self in the matter as far as

possible. Still more is this essential when stalking alone. In

stalking alone, there is this advantage, that one can always secure

the best position in which to shoot, whereas if one is accompanied

by a stalker, he sometimes takes that position himself and it is

not easy to get him to move on, or, as is more often the case,

there is no time for him to do so.

Charles J. Murray of Loch Carron, to whose kindness I am indebted

for many delightful days’ stalking, is particularly devoted to this

form of sport. A few seasons ago I was obliged to come south before

the end of the stalking season, and received from him a letter

which describes, far better than I can, the pleasure of being out

alone on the hill.

“You are missing the West Coast,” he wrote, “at its (_weather_)

best! for we have a spell of gloriously fine weather when the stag

can hear a footstep half a mile off, and the wind is so gentle that

it cannot make up its mind which way to go, but strays gently to

and fro and round in little circles, stimulating evil words among

the stalkers.

“Yesterday I was out alone and worked up to a Pasha and his

Harem--the ladies between him and me--he just out of shot on a

hillock behind them--approach from the front impossible, but just

a chance--almost a certainty with a fair breeze--from a rock to

one side, _if_ he should come down to his ladies before they got

a puff. I risked it and got a comfy corner in the sun and waited

to see which would win--the affectionate impulses of the stag or

the more wavering evolutions of the scarcely perceptible puffs of

wind, the old lady sixty yards away looking serenely at the top

of my head. Needless to say that after two hours, just when the

stag stretched one fore foot and began to hum a love ditty, I felt

a well-known cool feeling at the back of my neck, and the party

adjourned the meeting. Luckily I am not bloodthirsty, but enjoy

being among deer, and on these occasions driving snow and rain, or

sunshine and a dry tussock to curl up on, make all the difference.”

[Illustration: (The River Wye)]

III

A GREAT FISH AND A GREATER FISHERMAN

The river Wye goes out to sea

By stealth, in silent secrecy:

Among the hills she winds and wends

And wanders by the sombre woods,

And cleaves her way in circling bends

Through mountain solitudes.[1]

Towards the end of March 1921 I received an invitation to fish

the river Wye, which, as every one knows, is famous for its heavy

salmon. My own rods and tackle were in the North of Scotland, and

there was not sufficient time to send for them. I knew that in the

spring the fishing in this particular river was almost entirely by

spinning with the minnow. I arrived at my destination on Monday,

March 28, and had five days fishing before me. There had been a

good deal of rain before I arrived, and the river was both too

high and too much color. The fishing on my host’s beat had so far

been very disappointing. During the preceding six weeks the river

had been fished almost every day by my host and one or other of

his friends; but although hardly any fish had been lost, only five

had been killed, all with the minnow, the largest being 29 lb. My

kindly host, who is a past master of all things connected with

salmon and trout fishing, fitted me up with first-class equipment.

I had never used a Nottingham or Silex reel before, and it took me

the greater part of my first day to acquire the art of throwing the

minnow effectively. For the next two days I fished with the minnow

from morning till night without getting a pull or seeing anything.

I have been a keen fly-fisher all my life and have killed a good

many salmon and many trout, and on Friday morning, as the river

had fallen considerably, I told my host that if I might do so I

should like to try the fly. He readily assented, and said that

I should have one of his own fly rods, and before we started he

kindly gave me several salmon flies, and said that his butler, C.,

who was an experienced hand at gaffing salmon, should come with

me. Among the flies which my host had given me was a “Mar Lodge”

(size 4/0), and with this I fished all the morning and up to about

three o’clock in the afternoon without, however, seeing or touching

anything. C. said that he was afraid the day was going to be a

blank again. I said that I would like to try once more a particular

spot below a rock in the upper part of a pool higher up the river,

which I had fished in the morning and which I thought looked a very

likely place for a salmon to lie. In order to fish this pool it

was necessary to use a boat. It was a beautiful afternoon and the

sun was still shining. We crossed over the river at the bottom of

the pool and rowed up on the other side, keeping close to the bank

so as not to disturb that part of the pool which I was going to

fish. C. worked the boat with great skill, and at my first cast I

managed to place my fly exactly where I wished it to go below the

rock. As the fly swung round with the current I suddenly saw for

a second a huge silvery fish in the clear, transparent water upon

which the sun was shining. At the same moment the line tightened.

“I have him,” I said, as the line went screeching off the reel.

The fish ran straight up-stream for about ninety yards, and then

leaped twice, high into the air. It was by far the largest salmon

I had ever seen, clean-run and glittering like a silver coin

fresh from the Mint. This first danger safely passed, I gradually

persuaded him to come back again. C. said, “He must be well hooked,

and he’s a very big fish. That fish of 29 lb. which the Major got

would look quite small beside him.” For some time after this the

fish moved about the pool, but made no attempt to run. He then

made a violent rush of about sixty yards, and lashed about on the

top of the water, once more showing himself and giving us a fair

idea of his size. Again I got him well under control, and for a

considerable time he adopted the same tactics as before, moving

slowly and steadily backwards and forwards at varying depths. I

had been thinking for some time that perhaps I had been rather too

easy with him, and that I had not acted on the maxim with which,

I suppose, almost every salmon fisher will agree, that one ought

never to let a fish rest, and that a big fish may take hours to

land if he is not worried enough. The line and cast had been

thoroughly tested before we started, and I felt that I might depend

upon them. C. told me that as soon as I had hooked my fish he had

looked at his watch, and that I had now had him on for an hour and

twenty minutes. This greatly astonished me, as I had not realised

how the time had gone. But it was nevertheless the fact, and I

felt that we must do something to stir the fish. We accordingly

decided to move a little way up-stream. C. had hardly begun to

move the boat with this object in view when the salmon suddenly

moved, and moved to some purpose. Neither I nor C. had ever seen

anything in the movements of any fish to compare with the strength

and rapidity of that rush. The salmon went at a terrific pace,

straight up the river as hard as he could go for about 110 yards,

and then leaped twice, straight up into the air, about a couple

of feet above the surface of the water, broadside on, showing

that he was a tremendously thick fish. At the very moment he was

in the air the reel fell off the rod, and at that moment I became

conscious, although, of course, I had lowered the point of the

rod when he leaped, that the great fish had parted company with

me for ever. “He has gone,” I said, as with a sickening sense of

disappointment I reeled in the slack line in the faint hope that he

might still be on, having turned and come down the river again--but

no, it was not to be, and the line soon came back to me, the cast

having been broken about a foot from the end. C. said not a word,

nor did I for a time. No mere words are appropriate on such an

occasion and cannot diminish the loss of a fresh-run spring salmon,

so marvellously brilliant and beautiful, and in this particular

instance probably half as large again, perhaps twice as large, as

the biggest fish I have ever landed during the time, now more than

forty years, that I have been a salmon fisher. Within a short time

I started fishing again, but the day was done and we saw nothing

more. After the catastrophe I found that the reel had been loose,

and that the wedges used to make it fit closely to the rod had

shifted and finally fallen out in consequence of the rushes made by

the fish. I also learnt later on that the rod did not belong to my

host, and that by a misunderstanding this rod, which happened not

to have been taken down, but was among the other rods ready for

use, was given to me. Probably, had I been warned about the reel, I

could have prevented it from falling off, though whether this would

have made any difference it is impossible to say, as many a good

fish has broken the cast by falling back on it after jumping at the

end of a long rush, and the more line there is out the more danger

of losing the fish when he jumps.

[Illustration: “THE SALMON LEAPED TWICE STRAIGHT UP INTO THE AIR.”

By V. R. BALFOUR-BROWNE.]

In the words of one of the most experienced of fishermen, Mr.

Horace G. Hutchinson: “There is one antic that a fish may perform

which may, if you are unlucky, defeat you, however quick and

skilful you are--that is, if he jumps and falls back on the cast.

If you do not drop the point of the rod so as to let the gut go

slack when he jumps, you are nearly sure to be broken if he falls

back on it. If you drop quickly enough, it is bad luck if you are

broken, but it is bad luck which sometimes does befall. If much

of the reel line is in water, the drop of the rod top does not

communicate slackness to the cast quickly enough; the fish may come

on to it when it is tolerably taut--result disaster!”

Being a Highlander and therefore of a superstitious race, need I

emphasise the fact that the day of this, the greatest, tragedy of

my life as a fisherman was a Friday, and that Friday the 1st of

April. In this connection it is worth recalling that no references

to April Fools’ Day have been found in our earlier literature, and

it seems that this country has derived the fashion from France,

where April Fools’ Day is a very ancient institution, and where the

dupe is known as “poisson d’avril.” The April fool in this story

was the fisherman, not the fish. The following day, Saturday, I

tried to make the most of my last chance and fished all day long,

but without a sign of anything. Of course, there was a great

discussion as to the probable weight of the fish, which had given

both C. and myself several opportunities of forming some estimate

on the subject. We both agreed that it could not have been less

than 35 lb., and was more probably round about 40 lb. But my story

has an interesting sequel. On the following Monday I returned to

London; and on the Tuesday, when fishing the pool which was the

scene of the catastrophe, my host made a discovery which I can

best relate by quoting from a letter which he wrote to me on the

following day.

“Yesterday afternoon,” he wrote, “when fishing your famous pool I

found what I feel pretty sure were the mortal remains of your big

fish. He had fallen a prey to an otter, which after your long fight

with him is easy to understand. He lay on a rock just above the

place where you hooked him, and considerably below where you parted

company. A large ‘steak’ from the middle had been removed by his

ultimate captor, but the head and tail portions were there. From

examination of his head he had certainly been _recently_ hooked

_firmly_ on the right side of the upper jaw. He was extremely

thick, and must have been a most handsome fish of at least 35 lb.

I took home two or three scales, and his age appears to have been

between four and five years.”

I subsequently learnt that from its condition this fish had no

doubt been killed some days before it was found, and as it seems

highly likely it was the fish that had defeated me, it must somehow

or other have got rid of the fly by rubbing it against the rocks,

a feat which is generally believed to be by no means unusual and

which in this instance would, no doubt, be rendered easier by the

fact that the hook was a good-sized one, being about 2 in. long.

C., who was with my host at the time, said that he also felt sure

that it was the same fish. So it would appear that the victory of

the great fish was after all shortlived, and that he was probably

captured by a far greater fisherman than any mere mortal man--let

alone my humble self.

It is a very interesting fact that in the week before that in

which I was fishing, among the salmon which were killed on the

neighbouring beats were three, each of which weighed slightly over

41 lb. It seems not unlikely, therefore, that my fish may have run

up from the sea in the company of these splendid fish, and have

been much the same weight as they were.

Notwithstanding my great disappointment I heartily agree with the

words of Arthur Hugh Clough in _Peschiera_:[2]

’T is better to have fought and lost,

Than never to have fought at all.

On describing my battle to an old friend, who is himself no

fisherman, but a great sportsman, he replied by quoting from a

writer, whose name he did not know, the following lines, which I

had never heard before and the authorship of which was at that time

unknown to my friend also:

Upon the river’s bank serene

A fisher sat where all was green

And looked it.

He saw when light was growing dim

The fish or else the fish saw him

And hooked it.

He took with high erected comb

The fish or else the story home

And cooked it.

Recording angels by his bed

Weighed all that he had done or said

And booked it.[3]

[Illustration: (Fast Enough for Me!)]

IV

THE BIRDS OF FASTEST FLIGHT IN THE BRITISH ISLES

Some little time ago, a correspondence appeared in the

_Observer_[4] and the _Field_[5] as to which is the quickest

bird in flight. Various correspondents, some of them well-known

naturalists, writers of repute, and sportsmen of experience,

expressed their views, by no means unanimous, on the question. I

have always been greatly interested in the subject, and for many

years past in the North of Scotland have been in the habit of

watching bird life in some of the wildest and most inaccessible

parts of the country.

I have examined the evidence contained in the valuable and

interesting correspondence mentioned above, and have also obtained

all the information I could get elsewhere from books of authority

and persons who have had special opportunities of observation.

At the present day a valuable and novel class of evidence is

available--that of observers in aeroplanes. Upon all the material

thus obtained I have tried to form an impartial opinion.

There appear to me to be four points to be borne in mind before

arriving at any conclusion as to which bird is the quickest in

flight, and the maximum speed of which each bird is capable.

Emphasis is laid on the first three of the following points in some

of the letters in the correspondence above referred to, but I think

that the fourth point is of at least equal importance.

1. Ground speed must be distinguished from air speed.

2. The path of flight must be horizontal.

3. There must be something to show that the bird is flying at its

maximum speed.

4. There must be a standard length of flight to which the test is

to be applied.

1. _Ground speed must be distinguished from air speed._

It is not generally realised that a bird has two speeds: its speed

relative to the ground and its speed relative to the air.

“Ground speed” is “air speed” as influenced by the wind. In a

perfectly still atmosphere “ground speed” and “air speed” are the

same. To quote one of the writers in the _Field_ of February 11,

1922: “The wind has no effect on the speed at which a bird is

capable of driving itself through the air. Take a parallel case,

substitute for the bird a caterpillar, and for the atmosphere in

which the bird is flying a sheet of paper. The caterpillar can

always crawl at a constant speed across the paper, although it is

possible to increase the relative speed of a caterpillar to the

ground by moving the sheet of paper.”

Or to put the same distinction in the words of another writer in

the same number of the _Field_: “It is the speed of the object over

the ground or still water that matters; and if the medium (_i.e._

air or water) in which the object under discussion is either flying

or floating is also in movement, then the pace over the ground will

naturally be correspondingly increased or decreased.”

Wind, of course, varies in two ways (1) direction and (2) velocity,

and is uniform only at a given height.

The direction of the wind must necessarily be either along the line

of flight of the bird, against it, or at an angle with it. In the

first of these instances the speed of the bird over the ground is

determined merely by adding the velocity of the wind to, and in

the second by subtracting it from the air speed of the bird, in

the same way as a swimmer’s speed is increased or reduced by the

speed of the current. The third case is more complicated, as in

this calculation allowance must be made for “drift,” _i.e._ the

tendency of a bird under such circumstances to deviate from its

desired course. It is, however, unnecessary to say anything further

as to this third case, as the comparison of speeds of various birds

can only be made satisfactorily by ascertaining their speeds under

identical conditions in horizontal flight.

2. _The path of flight must be horizontal._

In the words[6] of Captain C. F. A. Portal, D.S.O.: “If any one

has seen a peregrine stooping from 1000 feet at between 150 and

200 miles per hour at a partridge, and has later seen the same

peregrine chase the same partridge from a standing start, he will

appreciate the importance of considering only level flight. In

the first instance, the hawk is nearly 100 miles per hour faster

than the quarry, in the second, he can only just overtake it at

all. There is no conceivable way of measuring the speed of these

downward flights accurately, but no one who has done any hawking

will deny that 120 miles per hour is within the power of a great

many species. When we come to consider level flight, there is a

very different story.”

[Illustration: THE PEREGRINE FALCON.

By V. R. BALFOUR-BROWNE.]

3. _There must be some evidence to show whether the bird is flying

at its maximum speed or not._

As was recently pointed out in an interesting article[7] by Colonel

R. Meinertzhagen, D.S.O.: “Birds have two speeds: a normal rate,

which is used for everyday purposes and also for migration, and an

accelerated speed, which is used for protection, or pursuit, and

which in some cases nearly doubles the rate of their normal speed;

some of the heavier birds can probably only accelerate to a slight

extent. In this conclusion I am naturally excepting courtship

flight, which is usually of an accelerated nature.”

To quote the words of Major C. R. E. Radclyffe:[8] “The only

possible test we can accept is where two birds are matched one

against the other, and we are certain they are both trying their

hardest. No better test than this is the case of a hawk pursuing

its quarry, when it means to one of them its food and to the other

its life.”

The same writer draws attention to a common fallacy: “It is,” he

says,[8] “purely a matter of optical illusion to imagine that a

smaller-sized bird is flying faster than a larger bird of similar

shape and make; for example, a snipe on rising ground seems to go

much faster than a woodcock, similarly a teal than a duck, and

possibly this may be so for a short distance, but put up the first

two together, and also the last two, and let there be a peregrine

after them--as I have seen many times--and the scene is amazing

to a man who is not a falconer, as the smaller bird is overhauled

first every time by the falcon, and presumably they are all trying

their hardest.... I have dozens of times put up a peregrine over

ponds and marshes where teal and ducks were sitting together, and

then flushed the wild fowl all simultaneously. In every case

without any exception the first bird overhauled and brought to

the ground has been a teal and in the case of a long flight, when

every bird has been flying for its life, the further they go the

further the teal lag behind the wild ducks. The same remarks apply

to woodcock and snipe, to black game and grouse, to pheasants and

partridges--all of which I have flushed simultaneously in front of

hawks.”

In dealing with the same point in a letter written to me, Major

Radclyffe makes the following interesting observations:

“... Few people realize that a pheasant flies much faster than a

partridge when they have both been going a short distance. If you

flush an old cock pheasant and a covey of partridges together in

a big field of turnips, you will see the partridges are quickest

‘off the mark’ and away with a bit of a lead, but the pheasant will

catch them, and be first over the fence if they have 200 or 300

yards to go.

“Again take as an example a woodcock and a snipe. I have several

times flushed these two birds together, and in no time the woodcock

has left the snipe far behind him, and yet I believe that

ninety-nine sportsmen out of a hundred would say the snipe flies

faster than the woodcock.

“I have seen woodcocks give my hawks some great long-distance

flights before they are overtaken and turned; but a snipe has no

show at all when trying to keep ahead of a peregrine or merlin in

straight flight.”

In his letter to the _Field_ already referred to, Major Radclyffe

further says: “There is no doubt whatever that the heavier bird of

similar type is far the faster on the wing when once it gets going.”

It was suggested in one of the letters to the _Field_ that whilst

this is no doubt the general rule there is at least one exception

to it. “If asked,” said the writer, “to quote any instance when the

smaller bird is faster than a larger one of similar type, I should

say that the pochard (_Fuligula ferina_) is faster on the wing

than the common mallard, as I have seen the former pass mallards

on the wing when both have been flying before a falcon. But from

my experience of over thirty years as a falconer, a naturalist,

and a shooter, I should say that the above case is one of the rare

exceptions where the heaviest bird is not the fastest on the wing

if each bird is trying its hardest and best.”

Colonel Meinertzhagen, whilst agreeing that the heavier bird of

similar type is the faster flier once it gets going, has kindly

sent me the following observations on the foregoing statements as

to the pochard and mallard. “The common pochard is not a bird of

‘similar type’ to a mallard, the one being a diving duck and the

other surface-feeding. They differ in the proportion of wing area

to body weight, also in bone structure. The pochard and all diving

duck, probably fly faster than surface-feeding duck under similar

conditions, having heavier bodies in proportion to the wing area

than is ever found among surface-feeding duck. The eider duck,

which is even heavier than the ordinary diving duck (_Nyroca_),

probably flies faster than them all when once started.”

4. _There must be a standard length of flight to which the test is

to be applied._

If the question were asked, “Who is the faster runner, A or B?”

the reply would surely be “To what distance are you referring?” A

short or a long distance? Applying the analogy, it is obvious that

a bird might be much faster than another for a short distance, but

if the flight has to be prolonged, may not have the lasting powers

of another bird, and therefore would be beaten on the longer course.

It seems likely that the fact of not considering one or other of

these points may account for the difference in regard to some of

the views held by observers of experience. For instance, may it

not account for the fact that there is such a marked difference

of opinion as to whether the peregrine is faster than the golden

plover? May it not be true that for a short distance the latter

bird may be the faster flier, but that in consequence of its lack

of staying power it is overtaken before it goes half a mile unless

it can elude its pursuer by twists and turns. In this connection

it is worth recalling the experiences of that acute and accurate

observer Charles St. John[9]: “The golden plover,” he writes,

“is a favourite prey, and affords the hawk a severe chace before

he is caught. I have seen a pursuit of this kind last for nearly

ten minutes--the plover turning and doubling like a hare before

greyhounds, at one moment darting like an arrow into the air, high

above the falcon’s head; at the next sweeping round some bush or

headland--but in vain. The hawk with steady relentless flight,

without seeming to hurry himself, never gives up the chace till

the poor plover, seemingly quite exhausted, slackens her pace, and

is caught by the hawk’s talons in mid-air and carried off to a

convenient hillock or stone to be quietly devoured.”

Colonel Meinertzhagen has been so kind as to consider the

observations I have made above, and writes:

“I should doubt whether the golden plover has less staying power

than the peregrine. The former migrates long distances (thousands

of miles, in the case of the American golden plover, a bird almost

identical with ours, which goes from Labrador to Brazil by sea),

whereas the peregrine is nowhere believed to be a regular or

persistent migrant over long distances. It is more probable that

the peregrine is a faster bird than the golden plover and that

the latter becomes exhausted by continued acceleration and fear,

whereas the peregrine is accustomed to long periods of accelerated

flight and is stimulated by hunger.”

Again in reference to the difference of opinion as to whether the

teal is faster than the mallard, may it not be possible that both

views may be correct? in other words, that it depends upon the

length of flight which the writer is considering. It may be noticed

that Major Radclyffe in the passage which I have quoted above (p.

28) seems to consider it may be possible that for a short distance

the teal may be faster than the mallard, though he has no doubt

that the latter bird will very soon overtake the former.

The falconer has certainly more and better opportunities of seeing

birds flying at their maximum rate of speed than any one else.

“He also has,” to use Captain Portal’s words, “the advantage of

possessing in his trained hawk a known quantity with which to

compare the performances of other birds.”

Captain Portal has flown hawks at many different kinds of birds

during the last fifteen years, and has made certain estimates which

have been arrived at after a great deal of comparison and analysis

of data obtained while hawking, shooting, flying in aeroplanes,

travelling in cars and trains, and walking in the country. He

says:[10] “My figures cannot be correct for every member of each

species, as I have seen one partridge in an October covey fly quite

15 per cent faster than any of its companions when all were at full

speed. All I have tried to do is to strike an average for the

species, the speed given being the maximum pace at which the bird

can cover the ground in level flight through still air.”

The speeds given for the peregrine and merlin are those of good

trained birds; the wild ones are faster. Here are the figures:

Golden Plover 70 miles per hour.

Teal and Blackcock 68 ” ”

Peregrine 62 ” ”

Pheasant and Grouse 60 ” ”

Mallard 58 ” ”

Merlin and Blue Rock 55 ” ”

Partridge 53 ” ”

Green Plover }

Jackdaw } 48 ” ”

Wood Pigeon 45 ” ”

Starling 44 ” ”

Kestrel 43 ” ”

Rook 40 ” ”

Landrail 35 ” ”

The speed attained by golden plover when pressed has been estimated

by airmen at over 60 miles per hour.[11]

Colonel R. Meinertzhagen, from whom I have also quoted above,

states that he finds, “after eliminating abnormal conditions

and observations based on meagre evidence, that the normal and

migratory flight in miles per hour (ground speed) is as follows:

Ducks 44-59

Geese 42-55

Waders 34-51

(but mostly from 40 to 51)

Starlings 38-49

Falcons 40-48

Corvidae 31-45

Tame Pigeons 30-36

The smaller Passeres 20-37”

Amongst the birds which are claimed by different high authorities

to be the fastest British birds are the swift, the peregrine, the

golden plover, the teal, the wild duck, and the curlew.

It is curious that in the various controversies on the subject no

one appears to have contended that the golden eagle may possibly

be the fastest flier amongst British birds. This may be because,

except in certain parts of the country, the eagle is never seen,

and there is necessarily very little opportunity of comparing

his speed with that of other birds. In particular the falconer,

whose opportunities of comparing the speed of birds are, as I have

already stated, greater than those of any other class of men, has

no opportunities in the case of the eagle. Moreover, the flight

of the eagle, like that of some of the fastest flying birds,

for instance, the blackcock, is very deceptive. He is in fact

flying much faster than he appears to be--“The eagle’s flight,

when passing from one point to another, is peculiarly expressive

of strength and vigour. He wends his way with deliberate strong

strokes of his powerful wing, every stroke apparently drawing him

on a considerable distance, and in this manner advancing through

the air as rapidly as the pigeon or any other bird which may appear

to fly much more quickly.”[12]

[Illustration: WINTER SUNSHINE--WILD GEESE AT THE FOOT OF THE

APPLECROSS HILLS.

From a Photograph by THE LADY ANNE MURRAY of Loch Carron.]

The answer to the question, Which of the two birds, the eagle or

the peregrine, is the faster flier, must even on a horizontal

flight be a matter of pure conjecture. On the one hand, the

peregrine has the advantage of pointed wings which make for

increased wing power and speed, whilst the eagle’s wings are

rounded. On the other hand, there is a great similarity between

the general build and structure of the two birds, and there is the

fact emphasised by Major Radclyffe in the letters from which I have

quoted above, that, as between two birds of different size but of

similar shape and make, the larger and heavier bird will almost

invariably fly faster than the smaller and lighter one once the

former really gets going. It is, of course, true that the peregrine

is much quicker in its movements and more agile than the eagle. It

is constantly under the necessity of flying at its fastest (which

the eagle is not) in order to secure its food; in other words, to

use the language of a stalker in discussing this question with

me: “The peregrine requires a warm diet, and lives on its prey.

The eagle, on the other hand, will eat carrion.” The peregrine is

probably quicker off the mark than the eagle, but this does not

necessarily mean that he flies more quickly than the eagle once the

latter gets going. Stalkers have unusual opportunities of seeing

these two birds in flight, and almost all those with whom I have

discussed this question believe that on a horizontal flight the

peregrine is faster than the eagle. This in my opinion is probably

the correct view.

It must not be forgotten that the Northern falcons, or, as they are

generally called, the gyrfalcons, are entitled to rank as British

birds, although they are rare visitors to these Isles. They are

(1) the gyrfalcon or Norwegian variety (_Falco gyrfalco_), (2) the

Iceland falcon (_Falco islandus_), (3) the Greenland falcon (_Falco

candicans_). The gyrfalcon is a very rare visitor here, two

recorded specimens only having been obtained here and one of these

is doubtful. The Iceland falcon is a rare visitor also, although

identified examples have been obtained here from time to time.

The Greenland falcon is an irregular winter and spring visitor,

but there are more recorded instances of this species than in the

case of the Iceland falcon. The former bird, the prevailing ground

colour of which is white, is the most beautiful of all birds of

prey. By some authorities it is considered merely a race of the

Iceland falcon, which it resembles in size and habits. The eggs

of the two birds resemble one another. All these Northern falcons

are about the same size and larger than, though very similar

in structure to, the peregrine falcon. Speaking generally, the

difference in length is about 5 inches, in wing 2 inches. They

have been very highly valued in Europe for hawking, and, as would

be expected from their superior size and similar structure, are

undoubtedly faster than peregrines.

Writing in the _Field_ for March 15, 1923, Major Radclyffe

says:[13]

Amid the High Hills · 第 1 / 10 段