frame which carries the lock, or handle, generally called the "slamming
stile." Many and varied are the methods used to make a draught and
air-tight joint at the meeting of the slamming stile and the carcase end,
and our sketches illustrate some of the simplest and also some of the
best and most expensive methods.
[Illustration: Fig. 253.--Shutting Stile of Cupboard Door.]
[Illustration: Fig. 254.--Showing Cupboard End Thicknessed (see B).]
[Illustration: Fig. 255.--Dust-proof Cupboard Door.]
Fig. 253 is a part plan of the end of a simple cupboard of which the
carcase end is all of one thickness (_i.e._, not lined up in thickness).
A small strip of wood (A) is glued and screwed on the end to form a stop
to the door and to prevent the access of dust to the interior of the
cupboard.
Fig. 254 illustrates a similar method; the stop (C) is seen, as in the
previous illustration, but it will be noticed also that the carcase end
in this case is lined up (see B) to give a pilaster-like appearance to
the end, and the moulding is selected on account of its suitability to
hide the joint of the lining piece.
Fig. 255 is of a more intricate type, and is often used on jewellers'
showcases. The end at the right hand is slightly rebated to receive the
frame, and both the rail and the end are grooved with a plough plane. A
separate bead is made and glued into the groove of the door frame (D),
engaging the groove in the carcase end when the door is closed. The
shutting stile and the end are worked with a hook joint (E), and if
carefully made they are practically dust-tight.
[Illustration: Fig. 256.--Meeting Stiles with rebated Astragal.]
[Illustration: Fig. 257.--Door Rebated for Astragal.]
[Illustration: Fig. 258.--Door with Brass Astragal.]
Fig. 256 shows the meeting of two doors which open outwards, a separate
piece of timber being made to form a rebated astragal mould (F) and glued
to the right-hand door. This method gives a neat and effective finish.
Fig. 257 is similar to the above, with the exception that the rail of the
door is rebated (G) to receive the astragal moulding. This method is
preferred on the best class of work, because it shows no unsightly joint
at the inside of the door frame.
Fig. 258 illustrates the type of joint made by using a brass astragal
mould (H) as employed on high-class work, frequently seen on French
furniture of the Louis periods. In Fig. 259 is shown a piece of brass
astragal moulding, which may be procured from any cabinetmaker's
ironmonger in suitable lengths. It is fixed in position by slightly
rebating the edge of the door and fastening with ordinary countersunk
brass screws.
[Illustration: Fig. 259.--Brass Astragal.]
[Illustration: Fig. 260.--Curved Cupboard Doors with Rebated Meeting
Joint.]
[Illustration: Fig. 261.--Rebated Meeting Joint.]
[Illustration: Fig. 262.--Meeting Joint with applied Astragal.]
Fig. 260 is a rebated joint, broken at the front by a bead moulding. The
illustration shows its application to a circular-fronted cupboard, and it
will be noticed that the hinged rails are received in a rebate which is
worked on the carcase ends. The rebated joint at the centre of the two
doors is worked slightly on the bevel, so as to allow for clearance when
opening the door.
Two of the commonest meeting joints of doors are seen in Figs. 261 and
262. In the former case the stiles are rebated (as already shown in Fig.
260), whilst at Fig. 262 an astragal bead is glued to the right-hand
stile. In Fig. 261 a bead is worked on the right-hand stile to mask the
joint.
Fig. 263 is the hook joint used on good-class joinery and cabinet work. A
pair of special wood planes are required to make the joint in a cheap and
efficient manner. The cost of a pair of 5/8-in. hook joint planes is from
6_s._ to 8_s._ They are of similar size and general appearance to the
ordinary ovolo moulding plane.
[Illustration: Fig. 263.--The Hook Joint.]
[Illustration: Fig. 264.--Hook Joint with loose Tongues.]
[Illustration: Fig. 265.--Rebated Joint with Tongue Slip.]
Fig. 264 is a special type of hook joint as used on larger work. The
joint may be made by using the plough plane, the rebate plane and a
suitably-sized bead plane, the loose tongues being inserted as shown and
fastened by screws and glue.
Fig. 265 is a rebated joint with loose tongue-slip and astragal mould,
suitable for frames over 1-1/4 in. in thickness. The loose tongue-slip
is glued into the right-hand door frame.
Fig. 266 shows a shutting joint used to prevent permeation of dust to the
interior of a drawer. The drawer front is grooved and engages a
suitably-formed slip which is screwed to the bearer as indicated in the
illustration. Occasionally some difficulty is experienced when fitting
the slip to a narrow drawer, but this can always be overcome by putting
in the screws from the top of the bearer instead of from underneath.
[Illustration: Fig. 266.--Dust-proof Drawer, showing the Front grooved to
engage a Slip which is screwed to the Bearer Rail.]
Shutting joints which are required to be "light-tight," such as those
used in photographic work, are generally formed by slightly grooving the
frame and inserting a strip of black velvet. The friction of the high
pile of the velvet prevents the filtration of light through the joint.
When making air-tight showcases, one of the best and simplest tests is to
place a lighted candle in the case and close all the doors; if the candle
goes out within three minutes you have accomplished your object.
THE DOVETAIL JOINT
Nothing definite is known as to the origin of dovetailing, but a quaint
and pleasing little story which is well worth repeating runs as follows:
A farmer had called in the local "joyner" to do sundry repairs at the
homestead. One day, whilst enjoying a humble meal, he sat watching some
doves as they hopped about the yard. Struck by the movement of their
wedge-shaped tails, it occurred to him to joint his timber by the
interlocking method; hence we have _dovetails_.
[Illustration: Fig. 267.--A Single Through Dovetail.]
[Illustration: Fig. 268.--Through Dovetails on Carcase Work (P, Pins; T,
Tails).]
THROUGH DOVETAILING.--One of the simplest forms of the dovetail joint is
shown in Fig. 267, where two pieces of timber are joined by the method
known as "through" dovetailing. This method is used in everyday practice
for joining the corners of frames, bracket trusses, and a hundred and one
other articles.
Figs. 268 and 269 show the method of through dovetailing as applied to
the making of boxes, plinths, and general carcase work; it is used in
positions where no objection can be taken to the end grain showing on
each side of the finished work. In the case of plinths and furniture
cornices the foundation frame is made of yellow pine or other cheap wood,
and the more expensive and rare timbers are glued and mitred around in
various thicknesses and shapes, thus saving the more costly material and
strengthening the construction by the method known as laminating. In many
cases all that is necessary is to veneer the face sides, thus covering
and hiding any unsightliness.
[Illustration: Fig. 269.--Dovetails for Boxes, etc.]
[Illustration: Fig. 270.--Lap-dovetailing for Drawers.]
LAP-DOVETAILING.--Fig. 270 is an example of lap-dovetailing, such as is
used where a drawer side joins with the drawer front. It is not
permissible to allow the end grain of the timber to show at the front of
a drawer, and this is why resort is had to the lap-dovetail. As the most
general use of the dovetail is for this and similar purposes, we shall
therefore deal fully with the methods of marking out and the making of
this class of joint.
ANGLES.--A most important point in the construction of a dovetail is to
avoid having the angles of the pins and tails too acute. An inclination
of one in eight is considered correct; no hard and fast rule need be
obeyed, but the variation should on no account be less than one in six.
[Illustration: Fig. 271.--How to obtain Correct Angles for Dovetail
Template.]
[Illustration: Fig. 272.--Squaring and use of Template.]
Fig. 271 shows a simple method to obtain the correct angle. Take a piece
of timber and plane up the face edge (A, B) true and straight; mark out a
line (C, D) at right angles to the face edge and space off 8 ins. as
shown; now measure a distance of 1 in. (D, E), and join E to point eight.
This will give the correct angle for the dovetails, and it may then be
transferred to the joiners' bevel. Many workers who are constantly on
dovetail work make a zinc template to the exact angle and keep it
specially for the purpose (Fig. 272).
SQUARING.--Another important point to remember is that the drawer sides
must be true and squared to an exact length and planed up to thickness;
otherwise the finished drawer will be in winding and out of truth.
To true and square the ends of drawer sides, drawer backs and drawer
front, a most useful little machine is the mitre trimmer; failing this,
excellent results can be obtained by using the shooting board.
[Illustration: Fig. 273.--Method of Marking with Cutting Gauge.]
GAUGING.--After squaring up the timber accurate gauging of the ends is
another important point. The gauge used should be a cutting gauge, so
that the line is incised about 1/32 in. in depth, thus effectually
cutting the cross fibres of the timber.
Fig. 273 shows the method of using the cutting gauge. The stock of the
gauge must be held well up to the end of the timber. The gauge is a most
difficult tool for the novice to use, and his trouble is generally caused
by holding it too flat. Tilt the gauge a little so that the thumbscrew
shown in the illustration goes nearer to the floor; the blade will then
not bite so keenly, and better results will be obtained. The dotted lines
indicate the positions which the dovetails will occupy when marked out.
The gauge is set a trifle less than the thickness of the drawer sides to
allow for the thickness of the steel cutter, and a gauge line is marked
on the inside of the front and all round the drawer back. The gauge is
now readjusted so as to leave a 1/4-in. lap on the front, and a line
marked on the ends of the front and all round the ends of the sides which
will engage the drawer front. A glance at Figs. 270 and 273 will make
this clear.
[Illustration: Fig. 274.--Removing the Waste Wood.]
The dovetail pins on drawer part and back are spaced out and marked on
the end with the aid of the joiners' bevel, the lines being then squared
down to the gauge line by the method shown at Fig. 272--that is, by
using the try-square and marking awl.
The drawer front is now put into the bench vice, and the pins are cut as
indicated in Fig. 274. The drawer back is treated in a similar manner,
but of course in this case it is not "lap" but "through" dovetailing, and
the saw kerf goes through the timber and down to the gauge line.
[Illustration: Fig. 275.--Cutting away the Half Dovetails.]
We now come to the point where it is necessary to remove the superfluous
material. Fig. 274 shows a method commonly adopted and known as sawing
out the waste; the saw is held at an angle and part of the inside portion
of the dovetail is cut away as shown. This is a good plan for the
amateur, because it shows him at the commencement of his chopping out
which will be the pin and which the tail.
[Illustration: Fig. 276.--Showing the Vertical and Horizontal Chisel
Operations in Lap-dovetailing. A: The Preliminary Roughing-out. B:
Vertical Chiselling; note that the first stab should be just outside the
Gauge Line. C: Marking the Horizontal Cut.]
Fig. 276 (A) shows another method that answers well for soft woods such
as pine, American whitewood and satin walnut. The drawer front is laid
flat on the bench after it has been sawn, and with a mallet and sharp
chisel the corner of the dovetail is knocked off as shown. This takes the
bulk of the material away and the dovetail is then pared out square in
the usual way. The illustration (Fig. 276) also shows how the chisel is
held for vertical paring (B) and for horizontal paring (C).
[Illustration: Fig. 277.--Roughing-out by Boring.]
[Illustration: Fig. 278.--Marking Pins on Drawer Side.]
A third method is shown at Fig. 277. With hard, curly timbers, such as
tobacco mahogany and satinwood, it is a laborious process to carefully
chop away the timber in small pieces, and to overcome this difficulty we
occasionally see the workman take a twist-bit and bore a series of holes
as shown. A great portion of the timber may then be split away by
inserting the chisel end-way into the grain, after which it is pared to a
finish.
As dovetailing is chiefly used for drawer making, it will be of interest
to give several illustrations of variations of the joint and its uses.
Fig. 278 indicates the method of marking the position of the holes in
the drawer side. When the paring out of the dovetails is completed the
drawer front is turned over on to the side as shown, and the position of
the recesses which will engage the pin portions are marked with the
marking awl as illustrated.
[Illustration: Fig. 279.--Marking by means of Saw Blade.]
[Illustration: Fig. 280.--Gauge Lines, Scores and Saw Cuts.]
[Illustration: Fig. 281.--Sawing the Drawer Side.]
[Illustration: Fig. 282.--Position of Chisel for Cutting Channel.]
The completed drawer back is marked on the sides in an exactly similar
manner.
Another method of marking through dovetails is shown at Fig 279. The side
is held in position on the end, and the dovetail saw is inserted and
drawn out of the saw kerf, thus leaving the exact mark on the
drawer-back.
Other workers prefer a pounce-bag instead of a saw. A pounce-bag consists
of a piece of fairly open woven muslin filled with a mixture of French
chalk and finely-powdered whiting; the muslin is tied up with a piece of
thin twine like the mouth of a flour sack. All that is necessary is to
place the timber in position and bang the bag on the top of the saw-cuts,
when sufficient powder will pass through the bag and down the saw kerf to
mark the exact positions of the lines.
SAWING THE DOVETAILS.--After marking out the pins on the drawer sides, we
proceed with the next operation, that is, sawing the dovetails ready for
chopping out the waste material. The drawer side is taken and firmly
secured in the bench screw and sawn as at Fig. 281; it is most important
that the saw kerf is kept _inside_ the line which has been scratched by
the marking awl. See Fig. 280, where the dotted line represents the gauge
line and the outside lines indicate the scores of the marking awl.
Failure to observe this condition will result in faulty dovetailing, and
it will also prove the necessity for using a finely-toothed and
thin-bladed dovetail saw.
To cut out the waste wood (or core), the usual procedure is to saw away
the half-dovetails as at Fig. 275. With care, this can be accomplished
with the dovetail saw, thus avoiding unnecessary labour and the use of
the paring chisel.
After sawing, the drawer side is placed flat upon the bench, one end in
contact with the bench to prevent the drawer side from slipping away; a
chisel (preferably bevelled edged) of suitable width is now taken and a
small channel is cut as at A, Fig. 282. The method of cutting this
channel is shown in the same illustration. The chisel-cut is started
about 1/8 in. from the gauge line; the cut is made right up to the gauge
line, which (when gauging) was made 1/32 in. deep so as to cut the cross
fibres of the timber. A small piece of waste wood will therefore come
away as at A.
The object of cutting this small channel is so that, when the chisel is
held vertically on the gauge line and struck with the mallet, the chisel
will have no tendency to force its way backward and overshoot the gauge
line. The waste or core is now removed by holding the chisel
approximately vertical and applying sufficient power to drive it half-way
through the timber. The drawer side is now turned over, the operation
repeated, and the core pushed out. Care must be exercised whilst cutting
away the core to ensure the chisel being held nearly perpendicular; if
too much lead (or bevel) be given, a faulty and undercut dovetail will be
the result. Undercut dovetails prevent a proper grip of the glue; they
give a weak joint, and often cause the face of the drawer side to be
splintered whilst driving up the joint. If it be necessary to ease one or
two shavings from off the drawer side whilst fitting the completed drawer
in the carcase, the joint will show a greater gap as each succeeding
shaving is removed.
In common work, especially in soft timbers, many workers allow the pins
of a drawer back to run through the sides about 1/16 in. and hammer down
the pins of the dovetail. This is called "bishoping the dovetails," and
is unnecessary if the work be properly made and fitted.
An alternative method of dovetailing is that of cutting the dovetails
first, as shown at Fig. 283. Four or six drawer sides are placed in the
vice and the dovetails are sawn at one operation. A little lead (or
bevel) from front to back is given whilst sawing, and if this method be
used care must be taken to see that the parts of the drawer sides which
will be on the inside of the completed drawer are towards the worker, or
the lead will be given to the dovetails in the wrong direction.
[Illustration: Fig. 283.--Cutting several Dovetails at once.]
After sawing the dovetails in this manner the sides are placed in their
respective positions on the drawer fronts or backs, and marked with a
pounce-bag or by using the saw-blade method. The pins are then cut in the
usual way, care being taken that the saw kerf be on the outside of the
marks, otherwise the pins will finish too slack to engage with the tails.
FRAME DOVETAILS.--Fig. 284 is a sketch of a constructional frame such as
is used for building up a cornice or plinth. At the joint marked A an
edge barefaced dovetail is shown. From the separated sketches of the
joint (B) it will be seen that the dovetail can be put together either
from the top or the bottom of the framing as all its edges are parallel;
glue is relied upon to hold it in position. The centre stretcher rail at
Fig. 284 is similar, except that in this case it is a complete dovetail
in place of a barefaced one.
[Illustration: Fig. 284.--Constructional Frame (as for Plinth or Cornice)
showing application of the Dovetail Joint.]
Some workers, when making either of the above joints, prefer to give a
slight bevel to the dovetail, so that it drives tightly into the housing
when put together.
A variation of this type of dovetail is frequently used to joint internal
uprights to the horizontal shelves of writing desks, cabinets, and
bookcases, etc. The dovetailed portion is parallel for about
three-fourths of its width; the remaining part is tapered towards the
front edge and notched away at the face so as to conceal the method of
construction. An illustration of the top portion of a division 14 ins.
wide is shown at Fig. 284, C. The other portion is of course dovetailed
to fit it.
BLIND LAP-DOVETAILING.--At Fig. 285 is shown a type of blind
lap-dovetailing. This makes a good, sound joint, but it has the
disadvantage of showing a small portion of the timber of the front rail
end-way of the grain. Joints of this kind are used for cornices, boxes,
etc., and also for painted furniture.
[Illustration: Fig. 285.--Blind Lap-Dovetailing.]
[Illustration: Fig. 286.--Housed and Mitred Dovetail.]
HOUSED AND MITRED DOVETAIL.--Fig. 286 is another form of
dovetail--commonly called a housed and mitred or rebated and mitred
dovetail. In this instance we see that a small portion is mitred at top
and bottom edges, and when used in plinth or cornice work, or for making
tea-caddies, etc., the edges are (when completing the work) covered
either with the moulding, which is planted on the cornice or plinth, or
with the top and bottom of the box or tea-caddy.
The method of making a housed and mitred dovetail joint is seen in Fig.
286. The ends to be joined are planed up true and square and then
rebated as shown. The dotted lines indicate the portion which has been
worked away. The dovetails are now sawn and pared out in the usual way
and the part denoted by the arrow is afterwards cut away with a chisel
and finally finished to a smooth surface with a rebate plane; the method
of working is shown at Fig. 287, where the dovetail pins are seen with
the waste portions cut away.
[Illustration: Fig. 287.--Working a Housed and Mitred Dovetail Joint.]
Fig. 287 also shows the method of cutting away the mitred part. A
temporary piece of wood is planed to a true mitre and placed underneath
the dovetailed piece to form a template. Both pieces of the timber are
now secured to the bench with a handscrew or cramp; the template A will
form a guide for the chisel and rebate plane and allow a sharp edge or
arris to be worked on the mitre.
A SECRET MITRED DOVETAIL joint is illustrated at Fig. 288; it is used in
all the better class of cabinet and box work. Fig. 288 shows the pieces
separated; note the mitre at the top and bottom edge.
[Illustration: Fig. 288.--Secret Mitre Dovetailing.]
[Illustration: Fig. 289.--Dovetailed Keys for Wide Surfaces.]
DOVETAIL KEYING.--Fig. 289 is a method used to prevent wide boards such
as signboards, wide and shaped pediments, etc., from casting or warping.
It is called dovetail keying. Beyond calling attention to the fact that
the angles at the edges of the keys, where they are bevelled, should be
at or about 75 degrees, nothing further need be said, as the drawing is
self-explanatory. Angle dovetail keying is shown at Figs. 290 and 291.
[Illustration: Fig. 290.--Dovetail Key.]
[Illustration: Fig. 291.--Dovetail Keying on the Angle.]
[Illustration: Fig. 292.--Bow-fronted Door Dovetailed Edgeways.]
OTHER VARIETIES.--At Fig. 292 we have an everyday method of jointing
circular-fronted cabinet door frames. Great care must be taken in setting
out and making, or a twisted frame will result.
Then at Fig. 293 are shown two familiar examples of dovetailing the
bearer to the carcase end of a dressing table or washstand.
Fig. 294.--Lap-dovetailing the top of a wardrobe to the carcase end.
Other examples, such as the top of a bookcase to the sides, will suggest
themselves.
Fig. 295.--Side view of a jewel drawer with a moulded drawer front as
used on dressing tables, etc. This shows the necessity of bevelled
dovetailing in order that the drawer front may be kept as thin and light
as possible.
[Illustration: Fig. 293.--Carcase Work, showing Bearer Rails Dovetailed.]
Fig. 296.--Bevelled dovetailing when pins are at right angles to the end
cut.
Fig. 297.--Bevelled dovetailing when the centre line of the pins is
parallel to the edges of the work, used for making "hoppers," food
troughs, knife boxes, etc. One corner of the box shows the joint
separated.
[Illustration: Fig. 294.--Lap-Dovetailing.]
[Illustration: Fig. 295.--Jewel Drawer Side.]
[Illustration: Fig. 296.--Bevelled Dovetailing.]
[Illustration: Fig. 297.--Bevelled and Dovetailed Box, showing the
Jointing of One Corner Separated.]
Fig. 298.--An example of oblique dovetailing, as used on "hoppers" when
one piece is vertical and the other piece is inclined.
Fig. 299.--Method of dovetailing small boxes. The box is dovetailed in
one width and the top and bottom glued on; the sides and ends are then
cut along the dotted line, thus forming the lid. It will be noticed that
a specially wide dovetail pin must be left so as to form part of the lid
and part of the lower portion.
[Illustration: Fig. 298.--Oblique Dovetailing.]
[Illustration: Fig. 299.--Dovetailing for Small Box.]
SETTING OUT THE JOINT.--For constructing a dovetail joint at the corner
of a frame, as Fig. 300, it is necessary at the outset to trim up the
ends of the timber square and true. This may be accomplished by neatly
sawing to the line and paring the end of the wood with a sharp chisel,
or by bringing the wood to a finish with a finely-set plane, such as an
iron-faced smoothing plane. The ends of the wood must be perfectly square
when tested from either the face side or from the marked edge.
[Illustration: Fig. 300.--Corner Dovetail.]
[Illustration: Fig. 301.--Squaring.]