[Illustration: Fig. 104.--Method of Secret-nailing Hardwood Flooring
Boards.]
CABINET-WORK JOINTS.--With regard to tongued and grooved joints which
apply more particularly to the jointing of cabinet work, Fig. 93 is
produced by planes which are specially made for the purpose. One plane
makes the tongue and another the groove. The handiest sizes to buy are
those which joint 3/8 in., 5/8 in., and 3/4 in. timber, it being usual to
dowel or loose-tongue thicker boards. The 3/8 in. partitions (or, as they
are sometimes called, dustboards) between the drawers of a sideboard or
dressing chest are in good work jointed in this manner. The 5/8 in. and
3/4 in. ends and tops of pine or American whitewood dressing tables,
wardrobes, etc., call for the larger sized plane.
LOOSE TONGUES.--There are two methods of jointing with loose tongues,
viz., the use of the cross tongue, Fig. 103 A, and the use of the feather
tongue, Fig. 103 B. Cross tongues are the stronger when glued in their
position and can be used very much thinner than feather tongues. Feather
tongues are cut diagonally across the grain as illustrated.
[Illustration: Fig. 105.--Cradle for Planing.]
Fig. 105 is a cradle for planing up loose tongues to the required width
(generally 7/8 in.). Two grooves are made in a piece of 1-1/4 in.
hardwood; one groove is used for planing the width way of the tongue and
the other for planing the edge way. These tongues can be cut to accurate
size on a circular saw bench if power and machinery are at hand.
APPLICATIONS OF THE JOINT.--Fig. 106 is a sketch of a portion of a
sideboard top, showing the plough groove ready worked out to receive the
tongue; the other half of the top is treated in a similar manner. It will
be noticed that the groove is not worked through the full length of the
board, but stopped about 1-1/4 in. from each end; this leaves a square
joint at each end of the top on which the moulding is worked. If the
groove be run through the board it looks very unsightly when the mould is
finished.
Fig. 107 is a shaped spandrel, such as is fixed in the recess of a
sideboard or cupboard or shop window fitment. It is of such a width that,
were it cut from a wide board, the shaped portion would be apt to break
off owing to the short grain at C. The shaping is therefore built up out
of three separate pieces, the grain running as indicated. The loose
tongue is represented by the dotted line and a section is shown of the
joint at the line A B. At the opposite corner the tongue is left blind,
_i.e._, not run through the edge. This is the method that should be used
when the shaping is above the level of the eye.
[Illustration: Fig. 106.--Part of Sideboard Top; grooved with ends left
blind. (The boards are shown upright.)]
[Illustration: Fig. 107.--Shaped Spandrel for Recess.]
Fig. 108 shows part of a carcase of a dressing table. The drawer runner A
is shown grooved across the end to receive a cross tongue; this cross
tongue engages a similar groove in the front bearer. This method of
fastening the runner to the bearer is in everyday use.
[Illustration: Fig. 108.--Part Carcase of Dressing Table.]
[Illustration: Fig. 109.--Framed Writing Table Top.]
Fig. 109 is a writing table top. The centre boards are first jointed and
glued up, after which the ends and sides are grooved ready to receive the
cross tongues. The hardwood margins are shown at one end and at the
front, and the grooves are arranged so that, on completion, the marginal
frame stands above the top just the amount of the thickness of the
leather which will cover the table. In some cases the margin at the end
runs the same way of the grain as the top, thus allowing for slight
shrinkage. Cross tongues would of course be used in this case.
Fig. 110 is a sketch showing one-quarter of a barred or tracery cabinet
door. An enlarged section of the astragal mould which is grooved to fit
on the bar which forms the rebate is also shown.
Fig. 111 is a "Combing or corner locking" joint, a method of making boxes
by means of a continuous use of tongues and grooves instead of dovetails.
This type of joint is generally machine made. The amateur, however, who
is not proficient to undertake a dovetailed box frequently uses this
method.
[Illustration: Fig. 110.--Corner of Barred Door.]
[Illustration: Fig. 111.--Combing or Locking Joint.]
[Illustration: Fig. 112.--Single Loose Tongue and Double-tongue Joint.]
CORNER JOINTS.--Fig. 112 shows both a single loose tongue and a double
solid tongue. Both are methods used to connect circular cornered work,
such as a counter end, to the front framing.
Fig. 113 indicates a tongued and grooved joint suitable for edge or end
jointing, such as fitting matchboarding round a chimney breast, making
small jewel drawers, etc.
Fig. 114 is a tongued and grooved joint with a bead worked on same to
hide the joint, sometimes called a staff-bead. It would be used in
positions such as boarding around an upright iron pillar, etc., the bead
giving a neat finish at each corner.
Fig. 115 is a similar joint, but at an obtuse angle. An example of its
use is in fixing boarding around an octagonal column of brickwork.
[Illustration: Fig. 113., Fig. 114., Fig. 115. Examples of
Tongued and Grooved Corner Joints.]
Fig. 116 shows a tongued and grooved mitre as used for strengthening the
corners of cabinet work, such as tea caddies, small boxes, plinths, etc.
Two pieces of wood are glued in position and allowed to set prior to
glueing and cramping the joint proper. These pieces are afterwards planed
away, thus leaving a clear surface to the box sides.
Fig. 117 shows the method of working the groove in the above joints. The
pieces are turned back to back, the mitres thus making a right angle. The
guide on the grooving plane thus works against each face of the joint,
and this ensures correct jointing.
Fig. 118 is somewhat similar to Fig. 113, but with a quarter circle mould
to hide the joint.
Fig. 119 indicates the building up of a double skirting mould. C
represents the brickwork, A the oak-framed panelling, and B the packing
and fixing block. A wide skirting of this type is made in two portions
for convenience in working the moulding and to prevent undue shrinkage.
[Illustration: Fig. 116.--Cramping a Tongued and Grooved Mitre.]
[Illustration: Fig. 117.--Working a Groove.]
[Illustration: Fig. 118.--Corner Joint with Corner Mould.]
Fig. 120 illustrates the use of a tongued and grooved joint for fixing
together the sides of a corner bracket, and the same method holds good
when jointing a corner cupboard. A capping mould or top shelf will
conceal the joint; it then has the appearance of a glued butt joint, but
is of course considerably stronger. No screws or nails are required if
this joint be used.
PLOUGHING.--When grooves have to be worked in the edge or face of a board
to receive tongues, the process is generally called ploughing, and it is
usually accomplished by a special tool called a plough (or, as it is
occasionally spelt, "plow"). When a plough plane is bought it is usual to
procure eight plough bits or blades of various sizes to fit the plane. In
Fig. 121 is given the sketch of a plough plane with the names of the
various parts lettered thereon.
[Illustration: Fig. 119.--Double Skirting Mould.]
[Illustration: Fig. 120.--Joint for Corner Bracket or Cupboard.]
The board or boards which it is desired to groove are first planed
straight and true, exactly as though it were desired to make a glued or
butt joint. One of the boards is now placed edge way up in the vice and
with the face side to the worker.
Take the plough plane and select a suitably-sized blade; fix it in the
plane in the usual way, allowing the cutting edge to project beyond the
steel skate about 1/32 in., and securely drive up the wedge. Next loosen
the small boxwood wedges at the side of each stem, and adjust the plane
by tapping the stems with a hammer until the cutting iron is in the
desired position; then knock up the small wedges nice and tight. When
setting the fence to or from the blade it is a wise precaution to measure
the distance from the fence to the skate at each end of the plane; this
will ensure the skate being parallel to the fence. The neglect of this is
a source of annoyance to many amateurs. Now adjust the depth stop by
turning the screw at the top of the plane, measuring the depth of the
required groove from the edge of the blade to the stop, and carefully
lock the screw which adjusts this stop.
[Illustration: Fig. 121.--The Plough Plane and its Parts.]
The plane is now ready for use. Hold the fence close up to the side of
the timber, the hands in position as shown at Fig. 122, the position of
the body being that generally assumed in planing. Move the plane
backwards and forwards in the usual manner, beginning the cut at the end
of the board nearest to the vice jaws (the front), and proceed with the
planing until the depth stop is in contact with the wood. Then take a
step backwards and repeat the process until the whole length of the
groove is ploughed. Care must be taken to force the fence up to the board
with the left hand, whilst the right hand thrusts the plane backwards and
forwards, and the plane must be kept vertical.
[Illustration: Fig. 122.--Method of using the Plough Plane.]
TONGUEING.--The grooves having been completed, the tongues have to be
made. Fig. 123 shows a sketch of a board and the method of marking out
cross tongues (A) and feather tongues (B). The usual procedure for making
cross tongues is to plane the end of the board and use a cutting gauge to
give a line the required distance from the end (see sketch). The board is
sawn with a tenon or panel saw, and the piece of timber for the tongue is
thus procured. If a feather tongue is to be used it is cut diagonally
from the board (B) and the ends cut square as shown by the dotted line.
[Illustration: Fig. 123.--Method of Marking Out for Cross Tongues and
Feather Tongues.]
Feather tongues can be obtained in fairly long lengths out of narrow
boards, whilst on the other hand cross tongues are limited by the width
of the board. After cutting off the tongues, they require planing with
nicety to fit the grooves, and the advantage of a grooved board (Fig.
105) will be appreciated. A glue spoon similar to a plumber's ladle is
generally used to pour the glue into the grooves, and it is customary to
glue the tongue into one board first; after allowing this to set, the
joint is completed in the usual manner.
TONGUEING PLANES.--Fig. 124 shows the end view of a tongueing plane for
working matched joints out of the solid. The method of holding and using
the plane is similar to the directions given for using the plough. The
part lettered F (in front) represents the fence, which in this case is
not adjustable.
[Illustration: Fig. 124., Fig. 125. End Views of Tongueing and
Grooving Planes.]
In description Fig. 125 is similar to Fig. 124. The steel skate runs in
the groove and supports the cutting blade similar to that in the plough
plane, and provided a grooving plane of this type is of suitable width it
may be used for making grooves for loose tongues. There is on the market
a metal plane which is specially designed with handles at both ends.
This plane carries a grooving iron on one side and a tongueing iron on
the other side; thus with one plane both the tongue and the groove can be
worked.
[Illustration: Fig. 126.--Tongueing Shoulders of Tenons.]
Fig. 126 shows the method of tongueing the shoulders of tenons as used in
thick timber which is to be veneered on the face. A temporary piece of
wood (A) is put between the tenon cheek and the saw, thus forming a guide
for the latter. After cutting one saw kerf a thicker piece is made and a
second saw kerf cut; the waste between the saw kerfs is now removed with
an 1/8 in. chisel and this completes the groove. A tongue of this type
acts as an extra tenon and prevents the joint from "lipping" (becoming
uneven) on the face side.
THE MORTISE AND TENON JOINT
A mortise and tenon joint is the method of joining timber by working a
solid rectangular projection in the one piece and cutting a corresponding
cavity to receive it in the adjoining piece. The projection is called the
tenon, and the cavity the mortise. Joints of this type are secured in
various ways. Small wedges, wooden dowels, metal dowel pins, glue and
paint are frequently used, and prior to the introduction of glue we have
examples of Egyptian furniture in which the mortise and tenon joints were
united by a composition of cheese.
[Illustration: Fig. 127.--Barefaced Tenon Joint.]
[Illustration: Fig. 128.--Stub Tenon.]
BAREFACED TENONS.--Fig. 127 illustrates the joint in its simplest form
and shows a tenon having only one shoulder. This is called a barefaced
tenon, and it will be noticed that the portion which carries the mortise
is thicker than the rail on which the tenon is cut. The joint is
therefore level (or flush as it is called) on one side only, and it
should never be used at the corner of a frame. It is a useful interior
joint for framing that has to be covered on the back side with
matchboarding, and allows the work to finish level at the back when the
boarding has been applied (see plan, Fig. 127).
STUB OR STUMP TENON (Fig. 128; also occasionally called a joggle
tenon).--The illustration shows a tenon as used in the interior of a
frame. The tenon is not allowed to run through the stile, and
unsightliness on the edge is thus avoided. This type of tenon is often
used at the corner of a frame, and it then requires to be haunched. A
good workshop method of gauging the depth of the mortise for a stub tenon
is shown in Fig. 129; a piece of gummed stamp paper is stuck on the side
of the mortise chisel, indicating the desired depth of the mortise. This
greatly facilitates the work, as it is not necessary to be constantly
measuring.
A HAUNCHED TENON as used at the end of a door frame is shown at Fig.
130.--In this case it will be seen that the width of the tenon is
reduced, so that sufficient timber will be left at the end of the stile
to resist the pressure of the tenon when the joint is driven together.
The short portion (A) which is left on the tenon is called the haunch,
and the cavity it engages is termed the haunching. The haunch and
haunching prevent the two pieces of timber lipping, or becoming uneven on
the face side, as would be the result if it were cut away entirely up to
the shoulder.
Fig. 131 shows the type of tenon and haunch used when the stile or
upright rail is grooved to receive a panel. In this and similar cases the
haunch is made the same width and the same depth as the groove; the
groove therefore acts as the haunching. An application of this joint is
shown in the top rail of the door frame, Fig. 132.
[Illustration: Fig. 129.--Method of Gauging for depth of Tenon.]
[Illustration: Fig. 130.--Haunched Tenon used at end of Door Frame.]
[Illustration: Fig. 131.--Haunched Tenon used when Stile is Grooved for
Panel.]
[Illustration: Fig. 132.--Application of Haunched Tenon Joint to Door
Frame.]
[Illustration: Fig. 133.--Occasional Stump Tenon.]
This type of joint is also used to connect the rail to the leg of an
ordinary kitchen table (see Fig. 167).
Fig. 133 is a variation of the stump tenon, occasionally used where the
work in hand demands a thin tenon and a stout stump to take heavy
strains.
[Illustration: Fig. 134.--Joint for Inside Framing.]
[Illustration: Fig. 135.--Haunched Barefaced Tenon.]
A joint used for inside framing is seen at Fig. 134. The rails may be
used as shown, but in the case of a door frame (as Fig. 132) they would
have the inside edges grooved to receive the panels; the tenons would
therefore be slightly narrower than shown, owing to the groove at each
edge.
A HAUNCHED BAREFACED TENON, used in similar positions to Fig. 131, is
shown at Fig. 135. The door or frame in this case would be made of
matchboarding nailed on the back as shown in the plan at Fig. 127.
WEDGES.--Fig. 136 shows the method of cutting wedges which are to be used
to wedge the tenons; this avoids waste of material. Some workers cut the
wedges from the pieces left out of the haunching of the lock rail, or
the bottom rail.
[Illustration: Fig. 136.--Cutting Wedges from Waste of Haunching.]
[Illustration: Fig. 137.--Stile and Cross Rail with Horn.]
A STILE AND CROSS RAIL, framed together, are shown at Fig. 137. The
portion above the rail is called the horn, and it is usual to leave
sufficient length of stile to project above and below the cross rails, so
that there will be no tendency for the stile to burst out at the end
whilst the cramping and wedging of the frame is in progress. On
completing the framing the horn is cut away.
In Fig. 138 we have a type of joint frequently used for garden gates. The
illustration shows the method of tenoning the three pieces to the top
rail, barefaced tenons being employed.
[Illustration: Fig. 138.--Joint used for Garden Gates.]
[Illustration: Fig. 139.--Sprocket Wheel.]
[Illustration: Fig. 140.--Boring Tool.]
SPROCKET WHEEL.--At Fig. 139 are shown the guide bar and chain of a
chain-mortising machine, two enlarged links of the chain being indicated
at A. The chain is similar in construction to the driving chain of a
bicycle, with the exception that it is provided with teeth which cut away
the timber as the chain revolves. When using a chain mortiser the
portion of the machine carrying the chain is fed downwards into the
timber, thus cutting a clean and true mortise. If, however, a stump
mortise is required it is necessary to pare away a certain amount of
timber by hand, because the machine obviously leaves a semicircular
bottom to the mortise. To overcome this difficulty the latest types of
mortising machines have a square hole-boring attachment fixed alongside
the chain. This tool, the working portion of which is illustrated in Fig.
140, consists of a square hollow chisel (E), which is sharpened from the
inside, and a revolving twist bit (D) fitted with spurs or nickers, but
without a point (one spur can be seen at the bottom of the illustration).
This bit revolves inside the shell like a chisel, and bores away the
superfluous timber, whilst the pressure exerted on the chisel causes the
corners to be cut away dead square. A mortise 3/8 in. square by 6 ins. in
depth may thus be cut. The portion marked A is the shank of the chisel
(Fig. 140), where it is fixed into the body of the machine, and the hole
at E allows the boring bit to free itself.
[Illustration: Fig. 141.--Method of Fitting an Interior Table Leg.]
[Illustration: Fig. 142.--Haunched Tenon for Skylight or Garden Frame.]
[Illustration: Fig 143.--Long and Short Shouldered Tenon.]
Fig. 141 indicates the method of fixing an interior leg to a table having
a circular or straight top rail. The inlaid leg in this case is
stump-tenoned into the top rail, and the inlaid portion of the leg is
allowed to run through the rail, thus giving continuity of design.
Fig. 142 shows the application of the haunched tenon (Fig. 135) to the
making of a skylight or garden frame. In this and similar cases the side
rails are rebated as shown in the section, and the bottom rail is thinner
than the side rails to allow the glass to finish level upon it.
LONG AND SHORT SHOULDERED JOINT.--Fig. 143 shows a haunched mortise and
tenon joint having a long and short shoulder. This is a fairly common
joint in framed partitions for offices, framing for greenhouses, tool
sheds, etc., and is a frequent source of annoyance to the amateur. It is
necessary to use this joint when both the stiles and uprights are
rebated, and it calls for accurate marking out and great care in the
making.
[Illustration: Fig. 144.--Joint for Fencing.]
[Illustration: Fig. 145.--Example of Faulty Tenon.]
Fig. 144 shows the upright and rails of common garden or field fencing.
The tenons are bevelled to fit and wedge each other in the mortise. The
illustration gives both cross rails as shouldered, but in many cases
shoulders are omitted when the rails are not thick enough to carry them.
Fig. 145 indicates faulty methods of working a tenon. At A the saw has
been allowed to run too far when cutting the shoulder, thus greatly
weakening the tenon. At B faulty sawing has again occurred, and to remedy
this defect the worker has resorted to paring the shoulder with a chisel.
Had the chisel been used vertically an undercut shoulder (as at B) would
not have occurred. The trouble now is that the slightest amount of
shrinkage in the width of the stile will show an open joint. The result
will be the same if it is necessary to remove a shaving or two when
planing or levelling up the face of the frame.
[Illustration: Fig. 146.--Self-wedging Japanese Tenon Joint.]
[Illustration: Fig. 147.--Tenoned and Scribed Joint.]
[Illustration: Fig. 148.--Mitred and Moulded Tenon Joint.]
[Illustration: Fig. 149.--Twin Tenons.]
A JAPANESE TENONED JOINT, little known and rarely used in this country,
is shown at Fig. 146. For clearness the two parts are here shown
separate. The joint is self-wedging and will be of interest to Handicraft
Instructors.
A TENONED AND SCRIBED JOINT is seen at Fig. 147. The cross rail is cut at
the shoulder, so as to fit the moulding which is worked on the stile.
This is a good joint in everyday use.
MITRED AND MOULDED JOINT.--Fig. 148 shows a type of joint largely used in
light cabinet work. The method of mitreing the moulding and tenoning the
stile to rail is indicated.
TWIN TENONS (Fig. 149).--The method of tenoning the bearers which carry
the drawers, or the midfeather between two drawers, in a dressing table
or similar carcase is here shown. On completion, the tenons on the
midfeather are wedged diagonally.
[Illustration: Fig 150.--Method of Pinning.]
[Illustration: Fig. 151.--Joining Top Rails to Upright Post.]
PINNING.--Fig. 150 shows the tenoning of the inside end of a wardrobe to
the top of the carcase. This is also called pinning. The tenons should be
wedged diagonally. The tenons and the distance between the tenons are
more satisfactory if made equidistant, because if slight shrinkage occurs
this is partially equalised. The width between the tenons should in no
case exceed 3 ins.
TOP RAILS.--At Fig. 151 is shown the method of joining the top rails to
the post of a tool shed or similar outhouse. The two rails, which are at
right angles to each other, are half-lapped and mortised; the tenon on
the post runs entirely through them.
A TUSK TENON JOINT, with wedge, as used to secure the binder to the
girder when making floors, is indicated at Fig. 153. The tenon here is
narrow and engages the mortise, which is situated in the compressional
fibres immediately adjoining the neutral layer. Fig. 152 shows a tusk
tenon furnished with a drawbore pin.
[Illustration: Fig. 152.--Tusk Tenon.]
[Illustration: Fig. 153.--Wedged Tusk Tenon.]
Fig. 154 is a variation of Fig. 152.
Fig. 155 shows tusk and wedged tenons as used when making a portable book
or medicine cabinet. The shelf is housed into the end, and the tenons run
through the end and are secured by wedges. This allows the article to be
quickly and easily taken to pieces for removal or re-polishing. The
dotted line in Fig. 155 indicates that the shelf may be shaped if
desired.
[Illustration: Fig. 154.--Another Type of Tusk Tenon.]
[Illustration: Fig. 155.--Tusk Tenon and Wedge.]
[Illustration: Fig. 156.--Wheelwright's Self-wedging Tenon Joint.]
In Fig. 156 a self-wedging mortise and tenon joint used by wheelwrights
is shown. The dotted line (left-hand diagram) will indicate the amount of
taper given to the mortise.
DOVETAILED AND WEDGED TENON (Fig. 157).--When two pieces such as the
cross rail and leg of a carpenter's bench are required to be held
together by a mortise and tenon, and to be readily taken apart, the tenon
is dovetailed on one side and the mortise is made of sufficient width to
permit the widest part of the dovetailed tenon to pass into it. When the
tenon is in its position a hardwood wedge is driven in above the tenon,
as shown.
[Illustration: Fig. 157.--Dovetailed and Wedged Tenon.]
[Illustration: Fig. 158.--Method of Fox-wedging.]