CHAPTER I.

[Illustration: MAP TO ILLUSTRATE DIARY OF AN AMERICAN.]

IRELAND UNDER COERCION

THE DIARY OF AN AMERICAN

BY

WILLIAM HENRY HURLBERT

VOL. I.

_SECOND EDITION_.

1888

"Upon the future of Ireland hangs the future of the British Empire."

CARDINAL MANNING TO EARL GREY, 1868

PREFACE TO THE SECOND EDITION.

Although barely a month has elapsed since the publication of these

volumes, events of more or less general notoriety have so far confirmed

the views taken in them of the actual state and outlook of affairs in

Ireland, that I gladly comply with the request of my publisher for a

Preface to this Second Edition.

Upon one most important point--the progressive demoralisation of the

Irish people by the methods of the so-called political combinations,

which are doing the work of the Agrarian and Anti-Social Revolution in

Ireland, some passages, from a remarkable sermon delivered in August in

the Cathedral of Waterford by the Catholic bishop of that diocese, will

be found to echo almost to the letter the statement given to me in June

by a strong Protestant Home Ruler, that "the Nationalists are stripping

Irishmen as bare of moral sense as the bushmen of South Africa."

Speaking of what he had personally witnessed in one of the lanes of

Waterford, the Bishop says, in the report which I have seen of his

sermon, "the most barbarous tribes of Africa would justly feel ashamed

if they were guilty of what I saw, or approached to the guilt I

witnessed, on that occasion." As a faithful shepherd of his people, he

is not content with general denunciations of their misconduct, but goes

on to analyse the influences which are thus reducing a Christian people

to a level below that of the savages whom Cardinal Lavigerie is now

organising a great missionary crusade to rescue from their degradation.

He agrees with Archbishop Croke in attributing much of this

demoralisation to the excessive and increasing use of strong drink,

striking evidences of which came under my own observation at more than

one point of my Irish journeys. But I fear Archbishop Croke would

scarcely agree with the Bishop of Waterford in his diagnosis of the

effects upon the popular character of what has now come to pass current

in many parts of Ireland as "patriotism."

The Bishop says, "The women as well as the men were fighting, and when

we sought to bring them to order, one man threatened to take up a weapon

and drive bishop, priests, and police from the place! On the Quay, I

understand, it was one scene of riot and disorder, and what made matters

worse was that when the police went to discharge their duty for the

protection of the people, the moment they interfered the people turned

on them and maltreated them in a shocking way. I understand that some

police who were in coloured clothes were picked out for the worst

treatment--knocked down and kicked brutally. One police officer, I

learn, had his fingers broken. This is a state of things that nothing at

all would justify. It is not to be justified or excused on any principle

of reason or religion. What is still worse, sympathy was shown for those

who had obstructed and attacked the police. The only excuse I could find

that was urged for this shameful misconduct was that it was dignified

with the name of 'patriotism'! All I can say is, that if rowdyism like

this be an indication of the patriotism of the people, as far as I am

concerned, I say, better our poor country were for ever in political

slavery than attain to liberty by such means."

This is the language of a good Catholic, of a good Irishman, and of a

faithful Bishop. Were it more often heard from the lips of the Irish

Episcopate the true friends of Ireland might look forward to her future

with more hope and confidence than many of the best and ablest of them

are now able to feel. As things actually are, not even the Papal Decree

has yet sufficed to restrain ecclesiastics, not always of the lowest

degree, from encouraging by their words and their conduct "patriotism"

of the type commemorated by the late Colonel Prentiss of Louisville, in

a story which he used to tell of a tipsy giant in butternut garments,

armed with a long rifle, who came upon him in his office on a certain

Fourth of July demanding the loan of a dollar on the ground that he felt

"so confoundedly patriotic!"

The Colonel judiciously handed the man a dollar, and then asked, "Pray,

how do you feel when you feel confoundedly patriotic?"

"I feel," responded the man gravely, "as if I should like to kill

somebody or steal something."

It is "patriotism" of this sort which the Papal Decree was issued to

expel from within the pale of the Catholic Church. And it is really, in

the last analysis of the facts of the case, to the suppression of

"patriotism" of this sort that many well-intentioned, but certainly not

well-informed, "sympathisers" with what they suppose to be the cause of

Ireland, object, in my own country and in Great Britain, when they

denounce as "Coercion" the imprisonment of members of Parliament and

other rhetorical persons who go about encouraging or compelling ignorant

people to support "boycotting" and the "Plan of Campaign."

Yet it would seem to be sufficiently obvious that "patriotism" of this

sort, once full-blown and flourishing on the soil of Ireland, must tend

to propagate itself far beyond the confines of that island, and to

diversify with its blood-red flowers and its explosive fruits the social

order of countries in which it has not yet been found necessary for the

Head of the Catholic Church to reaffirm the fundamental principles of

Law and of Liberty.

Since these volumes were published, too, the Agrarian Revolution in

Ireland has been brought into open and defiant collision with the

Catholic Church by its leader, Mr. Davitt, the founder of the Land

League. In the face of Mr. Davitt's contemptuous and angry repudiation

of any binding force in the Papal Decree, it will be difficult even for

the Cardinal-Archbishop of Sydney to devise an understanding between the

Church and any organisation fashioned or led by him. It may be inferred

from Mr. Davitt's contemporaneous and not less angry intimation, that

the methods of the Parnellite party are inadequate to the liberation of

Ireland from the curse of landlordism, that he is prepared to go further

than Mr. George, who still clings in America to the shadowy countenance

given him by the Cardinal-Archbishop of Baltimore, and that the

Nationalisation of the Land will ere long be urged both in Ireland and

in Great Britain by organisations frankly Anti-Catholic as well as

Anti-Social.

This is to be desired on many accounts. It will bring the clergy in

Ireland face to face with the situation, which will be a good thing

both for them and for the people; and it should result in making an end

of the pernicious influence upon the popular mind of such extraordinary

theological outgivings; for example, as the circular issued in 1881 to

the clergy and laity of Meath by the Bishop of that diocese, in which it

was laid down that "the land of every country is the common property of

the people of that country, because its real owner, the Creator who made

it, has transferred it as a voluntary gift to them."

Language of this sort addressed to ignorant multitudes must do harm of

course whenever and by whomsoever used. It must tend to evil if

addressed by demagogues to the Congress of a Trade Union. But it must do

much more harm when uttered with the seeming sanction of the Church by a

mitred bishop to congregations already solicited to greed, cunning, and

dishonesty, by an unscrupulous and well-organised "agitation."

Not less instructive than Mr. Davitt's outburst from the Church is his

almost furious denunciation of the Irish tenants who obeyed an instinct,

thought honourable to mankind in most ages and countries, by agreeing

together to present to their landlord, Earl Fitzwilliam, a token of

their respect and regard on the celebration of his golden wedding day.

These tenants are denounced, not because they were paying homage to a

tyrannical or an unworthy landlord, though Mr. Davitt was so transported

beyond his ordinary and cooler self with rage at their action that he

actually stooped to something like an insinuation of disbelief in the

excellence of Lord Fitzwilliam's character. The true and avowed burden

of his diatribe was that no landlord could possibly deserve well of his

tenants. The better he is as a man, the more they ought to hate him as a

landlord.

The ownership of land, in other words, is of itself in the eyes of Mr.

Davitt what the ownership of a slave was in the eyes of the earlier

Abolitionists--crime so monstrous as to be beyond pardon or endurance.

If this be true of Great Britain and Ireland, where no allodial tenure

exists, how much more true must it be of New York? And if true of the

man who owns a thousand acres, it must be equally true of the man who

owns an acre. There could not be a better illustration than Mr. Davitt

has given in his attack on the Fitzwilliam tenants of the precise

accuracy of what I have had occasion to say in these volumes of the

"irrepressible conflict" between his schemes and the establishment of a

peasant proprietorship in Ireland. It is more than this. It is a

distinct warning served upon the smallest tenants as well as upon the

greatest landlords in the United Kingdom that fixity of any form of

individual tenure is irreconcilable with the Agrarian agitations.

I anticipated this demonstration, but I did not anticipate that it would

come so fully or so soon.

I anticipated also abundant proof from my own side of the water of the

accuracy of my impressions as to the drift of the American-Irish towards

Protection and Republicanism in American politics. This, too, has come

earlier and not less fully than I had expected. Mr. Patrick Ford, the

most influential leader of the American-Irish, issued early in August a

statement of his views as to the impending Presidential election. "The

issue to-day," he says, "is the Tariff. It is the American system

_versus_ the British Colonial system. The Irish are instinctively

Protectionists." And why? Mr. Ford goes on to explain. "The fact," he

observes, "that the Lion and the Unicorn have taken the stump for

Cleveland and Thurnan is not calculated to hurt Harrison and Morton in

the estimation of the Irish, who will, I promise, give a good account of

themselves in the coming Presidential election." Hatred of England, in

other words, is an axiom in their Political Economy!

Mr. Davitt's menacing allusion to Parnell as a landlord, and Mr.

O'Leary's scornful treatment in a letter to me of the small-fry English

Radicals,[1] when taken together, distinctly prefigure an imminent

rupture between the Parnellite party and the two wings--Agrarian and

Fenian--of the real revolutionary movement in Ireland. It is clear that

clerical agitators, high and low, must soon elect between following Mr.

George, Dr. M'Glynn, and Mr. Davitt, and obeying fully the Papal Decree.

It is a most curious feature of the situation in Ireland that much more

discontent with the actual conditions of life in that country seems to

be felt by people who do not than by people who do live in Ireland. It

is the Irish in America and Australia, who neither sow nor reap in

Ireland, pay no taxes there, and bear no burdens, who find the alien

oppression most intolerable. This explains the extreme bitterness with

which Mr. Davitt in some recent speeches and letters denounces the

tameness of the Irish people, and rather amusingly berates the British

allies of his Parnellite associates for their failure to develop any

striking and sensational resistance to the administration of law in

Ireland. I have printed in this edition[2] an instructive account,

furnished to me by Mr. Tener, of some recent evictions on the

Clanricarde property in Galway, which shows how hard it is for the most

determined "agitators" to keep the Irish tenants up to that high concert

pitch of resistance to the law which alone would meet the wishes of the

true agrarian leaders; and how comparatively easy it is for a just and

resolute man, armed with the power of the law resolutely enforced, to

break up an illegal combination even in some of the most disturbed

regions of Ireland.[3] While this is encouraging to the friends of law

and order in Ireland, it must not be forgotten that it involves also a

certain peril for them. The more successfully the law is enforced in

Ireland, the greater perhaps is the danger that the British

constituencies, upon which, of course, the administrators of the law

depend for their authority, may lose sight and sense of the

Revolutionary forces at work there. History shows that this has more

than once happened in the past. Englishmen and Scotchmen will be better

able than I am to judge how far it is unlikely that it should happen

again in the future.

As to one matter of great moment--the effect of Lord Ashbourne's Act--a

correspondent sends me a statement, which I reproduce here, as it gives

a very satisfactory account of the automatic financial machinery upon

which that Act must depend for success:--

"Out of £90,630 of instalments due last May, less than £4000 is

unpaid at the present moment, on transactions extending over three

years with all classes of tenants. The total amount which accrued,

due to the Land Commission in respect of instalments since the

passing of the Act to the 1st November 1887, was £50,910. Of this

there is only now unpaid £731, 17s. 9d. There accrued a further

amount to the 1st May 1888 of £39,720, in respect of which only

£4071, 16s. 11d. is now unpaid, making in all only £4803, 14s. 8d.

unpaid, out of a total sum of £90,630 due up to last gale day, some

of which by this time has been paid off."

This would seem to be worth considering in connection with the objection

made to any serious extension of Lord Ashbourne's Act by Mr. Chamberlain

in his extremely clear and able preface to a programme of "Unionist

Policy for Ireland" just issued by the "National Radical Union."

LONDON, _21st Sept_. 1888.

CONTENTS OF VOL. I.

CLUE MAP _Frontispiece_

PREFACE TO SECOND EDITION v

PROLOGUE xxi-lxvii

CHAPTER I.

London to Dublin, Jan. 20, 1888, 1

Irish Jacobite, 1

Proposed Mass in memory of Charles Edward, 2

Cardinal Manning, 3

President Cleveland's Jubilee Gift to Leo XIII, 4

Arrival at Kingstown, 5

Admirable Mail Service, 5

"Davy," the newsvendor, 6

Mr. Davitt, 7

Coercion in America and Ireland, 8

Montgomery Blair's maxim, 8

Irish cars, 9

Maple's Hotel, 9

Father Burke of Tallaght, 10, 11

Peculiarities of Post-offices, 12, 13

National League Office, 13

The Dublin National Reception, 14

Mr. T.D. Sullivan, M.P., 14

Dublin Castle, 15

Mr. O'Brien, Attorney-General, 16

The Chief-Secretary, Mr. Balfour, 17-24

Fathers M'Fadden and M'Glynn, 18

Come-outers of New England, 18

Mr. Wilfrid Blunt, 19, 20

Sir West Ridgway, 24

Divisional Magistrates, 24

Colonel Turner, 25

The Castle Service, 25-29

Visit of the Prince of Wales, 27

Lord Chief-Justice Morris, 29-37

An Irish Catholic on Mr. Parnell, 31-33

Mr. Justice Murphy, 36

Lord Ashbourne, 37, 38

Unionist meeting, 39

Old Middle State type of American-Irish Protestant, 39

Protestantism and Roman Catholicism in America, 41

Difficulties of the Roman Catholic Church in Ireland, 43

Dr. Jellett, 43

Dinner at the Attorney-General's, 43-46

Sir Bernard Burke, 46-49

Irish Landlords at Kildare Street Club, 49-52

The people and the procession, 53-55

Ripon and Morley, 54, 55

CHAPTER II.

Dublin to Sion, Feb 3, 56

Poor of the city, 57

Strabane, 58-60

Sion flax-mills, 60-62

Dr. Webb, 63-65

Gweedore, Feb 4, 65

A good day's work, 65

Strabane, 66

Names of the people, 66

Bad weather judges, 67

Letterkenny, p 67, 68

Picturesque cottages, 67

Communicative gentleman, 68

Donegal Highlands, 68-70

Glen Veagh, 71

Errigal, 72

Dunlewy and the Clady, 72

Gweedore, Feb 5, 73

Lord George Hill, 74

Gweedore 1838 to 1879, 75-81

Gweedore 1879 to 1888, 81-91

Father M'Fadden, 83-104

A Galway man's opinions, 84-89

Value of tenant-right, 83

Condition of tenantry, 84

Woollen stuffs, 87, 88

Distress in Gweedore, 88,

Do. in Connemara, 88

Mr Burke, 90

Plan of Campaign, 93

Emigration, 94, 95

Settlement with Captain Hill, 94

Landlord and tenant, 96-98

Land Nationalisation, 98

Father M'Fadden's plan, 98

Gweedore, Feb 6, 104

On the Bunbeg road, 104-110

Falcarragh, 111-123

Ballyconnell House, 112-123

Townland and Rundale, 118

Use and abuse of tea, 119

Lord Leitrim, 121

A "Queen of France," 121

The Rosses, 123

CHAPTER III.

Dungloe, Feb. 7, 124

From Gweedore, 124

Irish "jaunting car," 125

"It will fatten four, feed five, and starve six," 125

Natural wealth of the country, 125

Isle of Arran and Anticosti, p 12

The Gombeen man, 126-130

Dungloe, 126-131

Burtonport, 129

Lough Meela, 128

Attractions of the Donegal coast, 128

Compared with Isles of Shoals and Appledore, 129

Wonderful granite formations, 129

Material for a new industry, 129

Father Walker, 131

Migratory labourers, 133

Granite quarries, 133

Stipends of the Roman Catholic clergy, 134-137

Herring Fisheries, 137

Arranmore, 137

Dungloe woollen work, 138

Baron's Court, Feb 8, 139

Dungloe to Letterkenny, 139-141

Doocharry Red Granite, 140

Fair at Letterkenny, 142

Feb 9, 143

On Clare and Kerry, 143

A Priest's opinion on Moonlighters, 143

The Lixnaw murder, 143

Baron's Court, 144

James I.'s three castles, 145

Ulster Settlement, 146

Descendants of the old Celtic stock, 146

The park at Baron's Court, 146

A nonogenarian O'Kane, 148

Irish "Covenanters," 150

Shenandoah Valley people, 151

The murderers of Munterlony, 151

A relic of 1689, 152

Woollen industry, 152-155

Londonderry Orange symposium, 156

February 11, 157

Sergeant Mahony on Father M'Fadden, 157-163

CHAPTER IV.

Abbeyleix, Feb. 12, 164

Newtown-Stewart, 164

An absentee landlord, 164

"The hill of the seven murders," 165

Newry, Dublin, Maple's Hotel, Maryborough, 165

"Hurrah for Gilhooly," 166

Abbeyleix town, chapel, and church, 168

Embroidery and lace work, 169

Wood-carving, 170

General Grant, 171

Kilkenny, 172

Kilkenny Castle, 173

Muniment-room, 174

Table and Expense Books, 176

Dublin once the most noted wine-mart of Britain, 177, 178

Cathedral of St. Canice, 178

The Waterford cloak, 179

The College, 180

Irish and Scotch whisky, 180

Duke of Ormonde's grants, 181

The Plan of Campaign, 182-186

Ulster tenant-right, 186, 187

CHAPTER V.

Dublin, Feb. 14, 188

The Irish National Gallery, 188-191

Feb. 15, 192

London: Mr. Davitt, 192

Irish Woollen Company, 193

Mr. Davitt and Mr. Blunt, 193

Mr. Davitt's character and position, 192-199

CHAPTER VI.

Ennis, Feb. 18, 200

Return to Ireland, 200

Irish Nationalists, 200, 201

Home Rule and Protection, 202

Luggacurren and Mr. O'Brien, 204

Dublin to Limerick and Ennis, 204, 205

Colonel Turner, 205

Architecture of Ennis Courthouse--Resemblance

to White House, Washington, 206

Number of public-houses in Ennis, and in Ireland, 207, 208

Innkeepers of Milltown Malbay, 208,209

Father White (see Note E), 209

Sir Francis Head, 210, 211

Different opinions in Ennis, 212, 213

State of trade in Ennis, 213, 214

Edenvale, Heronry, 215 _seq._

Feb. 19, 215

The men of Ennis at Edenvale, 216

Killone Abbey, 218-221

Stephen J. Meany, 220

"Holy Well" of St. John, 221

Superstition as to rabbits, 222

Religious practices under Penal Laws, 222

Experiences under National League, 223, 224

Case of George Pilkington, 224-226

Trees at Edenvale, 227

Moonlighters, a reproduction of Whiteboys, 227, 228

Difficulty in getting men to work, 228

A testimonial to Mr. Austen Mackay, 229-232

Effect of testimonials, 232

Feb. 20, 232

The case of Mrs. Connell at Milltown Malbay, 232 _seq._

Estate accounts and prices, 240

A rent-warner, 245

Mr. Redmond, M.P., 245

Father White's Sermon, 246

A photograph, 246

APPENDIX.

NOTES--

A. Mr. Gladstone and the American War (Prologue xxix), 249

B. Mr. Parnell and the Dynamiters (Prologue xxxiii), 251

C. The American "Suspects" of 1881 (Prologue xlvii), 255

D. The Parnellites and the English Parties (Prologue l.), 262

E. The "Boycott" at Miltown-Malbay (p. 209) 264

PROLOGUE.

I.

This book is a record of things seen, and of conversations had, during a

series of visits to Ireland between January and June 1888.

These visits were made in quest of light, not so much upon the

proceedings and the purposes of the Irish "Nationalists,"--with which,

on both sides of the Atlantic, I have been tolerably familiar for many

years past--as upon the social and economical results in Ireland of the

processes of political vivisection to which that country has been so

long subjected.

As these results primarily concern Great Britain and British subjects,

and as a well-founded and reasonable jealousy exists in Great Britain of

American intromission in the affairs of Ireland, it is proper for me to

say at the outset, that the condition of Ireland interests me not

because I believe, with Cardinal Manning, that upon the future of

Ireland hangs the future of the British Empire, but because I know that

America is largely responsible for the actual condition of Ireland, and

because the future condition of Ireland, and of the British Empire,

must gravely influence the future of my own country.

In common with the vast majority of my countrymen, who come with me of

what may now not improperly be called the old American stock--by which I

mean the three millions of English-speaking dwellers in the New World,

who righteously resented, and successfully resisted, a hundred years

ago, the attempt--not of the Crown under which the Colonies held their

lands, but of the British Parliament in which they were

unrepresented--to take their property without their consent, and apply

it to purposes not passed upon by them, I have always felt that the

claim of the Irish people to a proper control of matters exclusively

Irish was essentially just and reasonable. The measure of that proper

control is now, as it always has been, a question not for Americans, but

for the people of Great Britain and of Ireland. If Lord Edward

Fitzgerald and his associates had succeeded in expelling British

authority from Ireland, and in founding an Irish Republic, we should

probably have recognised that Republic. Yet an American minister at the

Court of St. James's saw no impropriety in advising our Government to

refuse a refuge in the United States to the defeated Irish exiles of

'98.

It is undoubtedly the opinion of every Irish American who possesses any

real influence with the people of his own race in my country, that the

rights and liberties of Ireland can only be effectually secured by a

complete political separation from Great Britain. Nor can the right of

Irish American citizens, holding this opinion, to express their sympathy

with Irishmen striving in Ireland to bring about such a result, and with

Englishmen or Scotchmen contributing to it in Great Britain, be

questioned, any more than the right of Polish citizens of the French

Republic to express their sympathy with Poles labouring in Poland for

the restoration of Polish nationality. It is perhaps even less open to

question than the right of Americans not of Irish race, and of Frenchmen

not of Polish race, to express such sympathies; and certainly less open

to question than the right of Englishmen or Americans to express their

sympathy with Cubans bent on sundering the last link which binds Cuba to

Spain, or with Greeks bent on overthrowing the authority of the Sultan

in Crete.

But for all American citizens of whatever race, the expression of such

sympathies ceases to be legitimate when it assumes the shape of action

transcending the limits set by local or by international law. It is of

the essence of American constitutionalism that one community shall not

lay hands upon the domestic affairs of another; and it is an undeniable

fact that the sympathy of the great body of the American people with

Irish efforts for self-government has been diminished, not increased,

since 1848, by the gradual transfer of the head-quarters and machinery

of those efforts from Ireland to the United States. The recent refusal

of the Mayor of New York, Mr. Hewitt, to allow what is called the "Irish

National flag" to be raised over the City Hall of New York is vastly

more significant of the true drift of American feeling on this subject

than any number of sympathetic resolutions adopted at party conventions

or in State legislatures by party managers, bent on harpooning Irish

voters. If Ireland had really made herself a "nation," with or without

the consent of Great Britain, a refusal to hoist the Irish flag on the

occasion of an Irish holiday would be not only churlish but foolish. But

thousands of Americans, who might view with equanimity the disruption of

the British Empire and the establishment of an Irish republic, regard,

not only with disapprobation, but with resentment, the growing

disposition of Irish agitators in and out of the British Parliament to

thrash out on American soil their schemes for bringing about these

results with the help of Irishmen who have assumed the duties by

acquiring the rights of American citizenship. It is not in accordance

with the American doctrine of "Home Rule" that "Home Rule" of any sort

for Ireland should be organised in New York or in Chicago by

expatriated Irishmen.

No man had a keener or more accurate sense of this than the most

eloquent and illustrious Irishman whose voice was ever heard in America.

In the autumn of 1871 Father Burke of Tallaght and San Clemente, with

whom I had formed at Rome in early manhood a friendship which ended only

with his life, came to America as the commissioned Visitor of the

Dominican Order. His mission there will live for ever in the Catholic

annals of the New World. But of one episode of that mission no man

living perhaps knows so much as I, and I make no excuse for this

allusion to it here, as it illustrates perfectly the limits between the

lawful and the unlawful in the agitation of Irish questions upon

American soil.

While Father Burke was in New York Mr. Froude came there, having been

invited to deliver before a Protestant Literary Association a series of

lectures upon the history of Ireland. My personal relations with Mr.

Froude, I should say here, and my esteem for his rare abilities, go back

to the days of the _Nemesis of Faith_, and I did not affect to disguise

from him the regret with which I learned his errand to the New World.

That his lectures would be brilliant, impressive, and interesting, was

quite certain; but it was equally certain, I thought, that they would

do a world of mischief, by stirring up ancient issues of strife between

the Protestant and the Catholic populations of the United States.

That they would be answered angrily, indiscreetly, and in a fashion to

aggravate prejudices which ought to be appeased on both sides of the

questions involved, was much more than probable. All this accordingly I

urged upon Father Burke, begging him to find or make time in the midst

of his engrossing duties for a systematic course of lectures in reply.

What other men would surely say in heat and with virulence would be said

by him, I knew, temperately, loftily, and wisely. Three strenuous

objections he made. One was that his work as a Catholic missionary

demanded all his thought and all his time; another that he was not

historically equipped to deal with so formidable an antagonist; and a

third that America ought not to be a battle-ground of Irish contentions.

It was upon the last that he dwelt most tenaciously; nor did he give way

until he had satisfied himself, after consulting with the highest

authorities of his Church, and with two or three of the coolest and most

judicious Irish citizens of New York, that I was right in believing that

his appearance in the arena as the champion of Ireland, would lift an

inevitable controversy high above the atmosphere of unworthy passion,

and put it beyond the reach of political mischief-makers.

How nobly he did his work when he had become convinced that he ought to

do it, is now matter of history. But it is a hundredfold more needful

now than it was in 1871 and 1872, that the spirit in which he did it

should be known and published abroad. In the interval between the

delivery of two of his replies to Mr. Froude, Mr. Froude went to Boston.

A letter from Boston informed me that upon Mr. Froude's arrival there,

all the Irish servants of the friend with whom he was to stay had

suddenly left the house, refusing to their employer the right to invite

under his roof a guest not agreeable to them. I handed this letter,

without a word, to Father Burke a few hours before he was to speak in

the Academy of Music. He read it with a kind of humorous wrath; and when

the evening came, he prefaced his lecture with a few strong and stirring

words, in which he castigated with equal sense and severity the

misconduct of his country-people, anticipating thus by many a year the

spirit in which the supreme authority of his Church has just now dealt

with the social plague of "boycotting," whereof the strike of the

servant girls at Boston sixteen years ago was a precursory symptom.

Father Burke understood that American citizenship imposes duties where

it confers rights. Nobody expects the European emigrant who abjures his

foreign allegiance to divest himself of his native sympathies or

antipathies. But American law, and the conditions of American liberty,

require him to divest himself of the notion that he retains any right

actively to interfere in the domestic affairs of the country of his

birth. For public and political purposes, the Irishman who becomes an

American ceases to be an Irishman. When Mr. Gladstone's Government in

1881 seized and locked up indefinitely, on "suspicion" of what they

might be about to do, American citizens of Irish birth, these "suspects"

clamoured, and had a right to clamour, for the intervention of the

American Government to protect them against being dealt with as if they

were Irishmen and British subjects. But by the abjuration of British

allegiance which gave them this right to clamour for American

protection, they had voluntarily made themselves absolute foreigners to

Ireland, with no more legal or moral right to interfere in the affairs

of that country than so many Chinamen or Peruvians.

Having said this, I ought, in justice to my fellow-citizens of Irish

birth, to say that these elementary truths have too often been obscured

for them by the conduct of public bodies in America, and of American

public men.

No American public man of reputation, holding an executive office in the

Federal Government, has ever thrust himself, it is true, so inexcusably

into the domestic affairs of Great Britain and Ireland as did Mr.

Gladstone into the domestic affairs of the United States when, speaking

at Newcastle in the very crisis of our great civil war, he gave all the

weight of his position as a Cabinet Minister to the assertion that Mr.

Jefferson Davis had created not only an army and a navy, but a nation,

and thereby compelled the Prime Minister of Great Britain to break the

effect of this declaration by insisting that another Cabinet Minister,

Sir George Cornewall Lewis, should instantly make a speech countering

it, and covering the neutrality of the British Government.[4]

Nor has either House of the Congress of the United States ever been

guilty of the impertinence of adopting resolutions of sympathy with the

Home Rule, or any other movement affecting directly the domestic affairs

of the British Empire, though, within my own knowledge, very strong

pressure has been more than once put upon the Foreign Affairs Committees

of both Houses to bring this about.

But such resolutions have been repeatedly adopted by State Legislatures,

and individual members, both of the Federal Senate and of the Federal

Lower House, have discredited themselves, and brought such discredit as

they could upon the Congress, by effusions of the same sort. The bad

citizenship of Irish-American citizens, however, is not the less bad

citizenship because they may have been led into it by the recklessness

of State Legislatures--which have no responsibility for our foreign

relations--or the sycophancy of public men. If it were proved to

demonstration that Home Rule would be the salvation of Ireland, no

American citizen would have any more right to take an active part in

furthering it than to take an active part in dethroning the Czar of all

the Russias. The lesson which Washington administered to Citizen Genet,

when that meddlesome minister of the French Republic undertook to "boom"

the rights of men by issuing letters of marque at Charleston, has

governed the foreign relations of the United States ever since, and it

is as binding upon every private citizen as upon every public servant of

the Republic.

I must ask my readers, therefore, to bear it constantly in mind that all

my observations and comments have been made from an American, not from a

British or an Irish point of view. How or by whom Ireland shall be

governed concerns me only in so far as the government of Ireland may

affect the character and the tendencies of the Irish people, and

thereby, through the close, intimate, and increasing connection between

the Irish people and the people of the United States, may tend to affect

the future of my country. This being my point of view, it will be

apparent, I think, that I have at least laboured under no temptation to

see things otherwise than as they were, or to state things otherwise

than as I saw them.

With Arthur Young, who more clearly than any other man of his time saw

the end from the beginning of the fatuous and featherheaded French

Revolution of 1789, I have always been inclined to think "the

application of theory to methods of government a surprising imbecility

in the human mind:" and it will be found that in this book I have done

little more than set down, as fully and clearly as I could, what I

actually saw and heard in Ireland. My method has been as simple as my

object. During each day as occasion served, and always at night, I made

stenographic notes of whatever had attracted my attention or engaged my

interest. As I had no case to make for or against any political party or

any theory of government in Ireland, I took things great and small, and

people high and low, as they came, putting myself in contact by

preference, wherever I could, with those classes of the Irish people of

whom we see least in America, and concerning myself, as to my notes,

only that they should be made under the vivid immediate impress of

whatever they were to record. These notes I have subsequently written

out in the spirit in which I made them, in all cases taking what pains

I could to verify statements of facts, and in many cases, where it

seemed desirable or necessary, submitting the proofs of the pages as

finally printed to the persons whom, after myself, they most concerned.

I have been more annoyed by the delay than by the trouble thus entailed

upon me; but I shall be satisfied if those who may take the pains to

read the book shall as nearly as possible see what I saw, and hear what

I heard.

I have no wish to impress my own conclusions upon others who may be

better able than I am accurately to interpret the facts from which these

conclusions have been drawn. Such as they are, I have put them into a

few pages at the end of the book.

It will be found that I have touched only incidentally upon the subject

of Home Rule for Ireland. Until it shall be ascertained what "Home Rule

for Ireland" means, that subject seems to me to lie quite outside the

domain of my inquiries. "Home Rule for Ireland" is not now a plan--nor

so much as a proposition. It is merely a polemical phrase, of little

importance to persons really interested in the condition of Ireland,

however invaluable it may be to the makers of party platforms in my own

country, or to Parliamentary candidates on this side of the Atlantic. It

may mean anything or nothing, from Mr. Chamberlain's imperialist scheme

of four Provincial Councils--which recalls the outlines of a system

once established with success in New Zealand--to that absolute and

complete separation in all particulars of the government of Ireland from

the government of Great Britain, which has unquestionably been the aim

of every active Irish organisation in the United States for the last

twenty years, and which the accredited leader of the "Home Rule" party

in the British Parliament, Mr. Parnell, is understood in America to have

pledged himself that he will do anything to further and nothing to

impede. On this point, what I took to be conclusive documentary evidence

was submitted to me in New York several years ago by Mr. Sheridan, at a

time when the fever-heat of British indignation excited by those murders

in the Phoenix Park, for which I believe it is now admitted by the best

informed authorities that Mr. Sheridan had no responsibility, was

driving Mr. Parnell and his Parliamentary associates into disavowals of

the extreme men of their connection, which, but for Mr. Sheridan's

coolness and consciousness of his well-assured domination over them,

might have led to extremely inconvenient consequences to all

concerned.[5] But whatever "Home Rule" may or may not mean, I went to

Ireland, not to find some achromatic meaning for a prismatic phrase,

which is flashed at you fifty times in England or America where you

encounter it once in Ireland, but to learn what I could of the social

and economical condition of the Irish people as affected by the

revolutionary forces which are now at work in that country.

I have watched the development of these forces too long and too closely

to be under any illusion as to the real importance relatively with them

of the so-called "Parliamentary" action of the Irish Nationalists.

II.

The visits to Ireland, of which this book is a record, were made on my

return from a sojourn in Rome during the celebration of the Jubilee of

His Holiness Leo XIII. What I then and there learned convinced me that

the Vatican was on the eve of grappling in Ireland with issues

substantially identical with those which were forced, in my own country,

two years ago, upon a most courageous and gifted member of the American

Catholic hierarchy, the Archbishop of New York, by the open adhesion of

an eminent Irish American ecclesiastic, the Rev. Dr. M'Glynn, to the

social revolution of which Mr. Henry George is the best-equipped and

most indefatigable apostle. Entertaining this conviction (which events

have since shown to have been well-founded), I was anxious to survey on

the spot the conditions under which the conflict so vigorously

encountered by the Archbishop in New York must be waged by the Vatican

in Ireland.

To suppose that the Vatican, in dealing with this conflict, either in

Ireland or in America, is troubling itself about the balancing of

political acrobats, British or American, upon the tight-rope of "Home

Rule," is as absurd as it would have been to suppose that in 1885 the

Vatican concerned itself with the subterranean intrigues which there is

reason to believe the Irish Nationalists then sought to carry on with

the wire-pullers of the two great British political parties. To get a

correct perspective of the observations which I came from Rome this year

to make in Ireland, my readers, as I have already said, must allow me to

take them across the Atlantic, and must put aside as accessory and

incidental the forensic and polemic phenomena of Irish politics, with

which they are perhaps only too familiar.

It is as easy to go too far back as it is not to go back far enough in

the study of such a revolutionary movement as that of which Ireland is

just now the arena.

Many and sore are the historical grievances of the Irish people. That

they are historical and not actual grievances would seem to be admitted

by so sympathetic and minutely well-informed a writer as Dr. Sigerson,

when he gives it as his opinion, that after the passage of the Land Act

of 1870, "the concession in principle of the demands of the cultivators

as tenants" had "abolished the class war waged between landlords and

their tenantry."

The class war between the tenantry and their landlords, therefore, which

is now undoubtedly waging in Ireland cannot be attributed to the

historical grievances of the Irish people. The tradition and the memory

of these historical grievances may indeed be used by designing or

hysterical traders in agitation to inflame the present war. But the war

itself is not the old war, nor can it be explained by recurring to the

causes of the old war. It has the characteristics no longer of a

defensive war, nor yet of a war of revenge absolutely, but of an

aggressive war, and of a war of conquest. In his able work on "The Land

Tenure and the Land Classes of Ireland," Dr. Sigerson, writing in 1871,

looked forward to the peaceful co-existence in Ireland of two systems of

land-holding, "whereby the country might enjoy the advantage of what is

good in the 'landlord,' or single middleman system, and in the peasant

proprietary or direct system."

What we now see in Ireland, after nearly twenty years of legislation,

steadily tending to the triumph of equal rights, is an agitation

threatening not only the "co-existence" of these two systems, but the

very existence of each of these systems.

To get at the origin and the meaning of this agitation we must be

content, I believe, to go no further back than ten years, and to look

for them, not in Ireland, but in America, not to Mr. Parnell and Mr.

Gladstone primarily, but to Mr. Davitt and Mr. Henry George.

III.

In a very remarkable letter written to Earl Grey in 1868, after the

Clerkenwell explosions had brought the disestablishment of the Irish

Protestant Church into Mr. Gladstone's scheme of "practical politics,"

the Archbishop of Westminster, not then a Cardinal, called the attention

of Englishmen to the fact, not yet I fear adequately apprehended by

them, that "the assimilating power of America upon the Irish people, if

seven days slower than that of England in reaching Ireland, is sevenfold

more penetrating and powerful upon the whole population." By this the

Archbishop meant, what was unquestionably true, that even in 1868, only

twenty years after the great Irish exodus to America began, the social

and political ideas of America were exerting a seven-fold stronger

influence upon the character and the tendencies of the Irish people than

the social and political ideas of England. Thanks to the development of

the cables and the telegraph since 1868, and to the enormous progress

of America since that time in wealth and population, this "assimilating

power" reaches Ireland much more rapidly, and exerts upon the Irish

people a very much more drastic influence than in 1868. This

establishes, of course, a return current westward, which is as necessary

to he watched, and is as much neglected by American as the original

eastward current is by British public men.

In this letter of 1868 to Earl Grey, the Archbishop of Westminster

desiring, as an Englishman, to counteract, if possible, this influence

which was drawing Ireland away from the British monarchy, and towards

the American Republic, maintained that by two things the "heart of

Ireland" might be won, and her affections enlisted with her interests in

the support of the unity, solidity, and prosperity of the British

Empire. One of these two things was "perfect religious equality between

the Catholics and the Protestants of Ireland." The other was that the

Imperial Legislature should by statute make it impossible for any

landlord in Ireland to commit three wrongs,--"first, the wrong of

abusing his rights by arbitrary eviction; secondly, by exacting an

exorbitant rent; thirdly, by appropriating to his own use the

improvements effected by the industry of his tenants."

Perfect religious equality has since been established between the

Catholics and the Protestants of Ireland. The three wrongs which the

Archbishop called upon the Imperial Legislature to make impossible to

Irish landlords have since been made impossible by Statute.

Yet it is on all hands admitted that the "unity, solidity, and

prosperity" of the British Empire have never been so seriously

threatened in Ireland as during the last ten years. Was the Archbishop

wrong, therefore, in his estimate of the situation in 1868? Or has the

centripetal influence of remedial British legislation since 1868 failed

to check a centrifugal advance "by leaps and bounds," in the

"assimilating power" of America upon Ireland?

IV.

Just ten years ago, in 1878, Mr. Michael Davitt and Mr. John Devoy (the

latter of whom had been commissioned in 1865 by the Fenian leader

Stephens, as "chief organiser of the Irish Republican Brotherhood in the

British army"), being then together in America, promulgated, Mr. Davitt

in a speech at Boston, and Mr. Devoy in a letter sent to the _Freeman's

Journal_ in Dublin, the outlines of a scheme for overthrowing British

rule in Ireland by revolutionising the ownership of land in that

country.

The basis of this scheme had been laid thirty years before, in 1848, by

Finton Lalor, John Mitchel, and the present Archbishop of Cashel, then a

simple curate.

It was thus stated by Lalor in his paper, the _Irish Felon_:--

"The entire ownership of Ireland, moral and material, up to the sun and

down to the centre of the earth, is vested, as of right, in the people

of Ireland. The soil of the country belongs as of right to the entire

people of the country, not to any one class, but to the nation."

This was a distinct denial of the right of private property in land. If

true of Ireland and the Irish people this proposition was true of all

lands and of all peoples. Lalor, though more of a patriot than of a

philosopher, saw this plainly; and in one of the three numbers of his

paper which appeared before it was suppressed by the British Government,

he said "the principle I propose goes to the foundations of Europe, and

sooner or later will cause Europe to uprise." Michael Davitt saw this as

clearly in 1878 as Finton Lalor thirty years before. He had matured his

plans in connection with this principle during the weary but not wasted

years of his imprisonment as a Fenian at Dartmoor, a place, the name of

which is connected in America with many odious memories of the second

war between England and the United States; and going out to America

almost immediately after his release on a ticket of leave, he there

found the ideas of Finton Lalor and his associates of 1848, ripened and

harvested in the mind of an American student of sociology, Henry George.

Nowhere in the world has what a shrewd English traveller calls "the

illegitimate development of private wealth" attained such proportions in

modern times as in America, and especially in California. Nowhere, too,

in the world is the ostentatious waste of the results of labour upon the

antics of a frivolous plutocracy a more crying peril of our times than

in America. Henry George, an American of the Eastern States, who went to

the Pacific coast as a lad, had grown up with and watched the progress

of this social disease in California; and when Davitt reached America in

1878, Henry George was preparing to publish his revolutionary book on

_Progress and Poverty_, which appeared in 1879. Dates are important from

this point, as they will trace for the reader the formation of the

strongest forces which, as I believe, are to-day at work to shape the

future of Ireland, and, if Cardinal Manning is right, with the future of

Ireland, the future of the British Empire.

The year 1878 saw the "Home Rule" movement in Irish politics brought to

an almost ludicrous halt by the success of Mr. Parnell, then a young

member of Parliament for Meath, in unhorsing the leader of that

movement, Mr. Butt. As the Irish members then had no coherent purpose or

policy, Mr. Parnell had, without much trouble, dominated and brigaded

them to follow him blindly into a system of parliamentary obstruction,

which there is reason to suppose was suggested to him by a friend who

had studied the Congressional proceedings of the United States, the

native country of his mother, and especially the tactics which had

enabled Mr. Randall of Pennsylvania, the leader of the Democratic

minority in the House of Representatives, to check the so-called "Civil

Rights Bill," sent down by the Senate to that House, during a continuous

session of forty-six hours and a half, with no fewer than seventy-seven

calls of the house, in the month of January 1875, some time before Mr.

Parnell first took his seat in the House of Commons.

When Mr. Parnell, early in 1878, thanks to this system, had ousted Mr.

Butt, and got himself elected as President of the Irish "Home Rule

Confederation," he found himself, as an Irish friend of mine wrote to me

at the time, in an awkward position. He had command of the "Home Rule"

members at Westminster, but he had no notion what to do with them, and

neither they nor he could see anyway open to securing a permanent hold

upon the Irish voters. Three bad harvests in succession had thrown the

Irish tenants into a state which disinclined them to make sacrifices

for any sentimental policy, but prepared them to lend their ears eagerly

to Michael Davitt, when, on his return from the United States in the

early spring of 1879, he proclaimed anew, at Irishtown in his native

county of Mayo, the gospel of 1848 giving the land of Ireland to the

people of Ireland. Clearly Mr. Davitt held the winning card. As he

frankly put the case to a special correspondent, whom I sent to see him,

and whose report I published in New York, he saw that "the only issue

upon which Home Rulers, Nationalists, Obstructionists, and each and

every shade of opinion existing in Ireland could be united was the Land

Question," and of that question he took control. Naturally enough, Mr.

Parnell, himself a landowner under the English settlement, shrank at

first from committing himself and his fortunes to the leadership of Mr.

Davitt. But no choice was really left him, and there is reason to

believe that a decision was made easier to him by a then inchoate

undertaking that he should be personally protected against the financial

consequences to himself of the new departure, by a testimonial fund,

such as was in fact raised and presented to him in 1883. In June 1879 he

accepted the inevitable, and in a speech at Westport put himself with

his parliamentary following and machinery at the service of the founder

of the Irish Land League, uttering the keynote of Mr. Davitt's "new

departure" in his celebrated appeal to the Irish tenants to "keep a firm

grip of their homesteads." In the middle of October 1879, Mr. Davitt

formally organised the Irish National Land League, "to reduce rack-rents

and facilitate the obtaining of the ownership of the land of Ireland by

the occupiers," and Mr. Parnell was made its first President. He was

sent out to America in that capacity, at the end of the year to explain

to the Irish-American leaders the importance of supplying the new

organisation with funds sufficient to enable it to take and keep the

field at Westminster with a force of paid members not dependent for

their support upon the Irish constituencies. It was obviously impossible

either to guarantee any considerable number of Irishmen holding property

against loss by a policy aimed at the foundations of property, or to

count upon finding for every Irish seat a member of local weight and

stake, imbued with the spirit of martyrdom.

Mr. Parnell landed at New York on the 1st of January 1880. An interview

with him, written out on board of the steamer which took him to America

by a correspondent detailed for that purpose, was published on the

morning after his arrival. It made on the whole an unfavourable

impression in America, which was not improved by an injudicious quarrel

into which he drifted with a portion of the American press, and which

was distinctly deepened by his inexcusable misrepresentations of the

conduct of Queen Victoria during the famine of 1847, and by his foolish

attacks upon the management and objects of the Duchess of Marlborough's

fund for the relief of Irish distress. The friends of Mr. Davitt in

America, however, and the leaders of the most active Irish organisations

there, came to the rescue, and as the two American parties were

preparing their lines of battle for the Presidential conflict of 1880,

Mr. Parnell was not only "put through" the usual course of "receptions"

by Mayors and State legislatures, but invited on an "off-day" to address

the House of Representatives at Washington. His tour, however, on the

whole, harmed more than it helped the new Irish movement on my side of

the Atlantic, and when he was called back to take his part in the

electoral contest precipitated by Lord Beaconsfield's dissolution of

Parliament at Easter 1880, Mr. Davitt went out to America himself to do

what his Parliamentary associate had not succeeded in doing. During this

visit of Mr. Davitt to the United States, Mr. Henry George finally

transferred his residence from San Francisco to New York, and made his

arrangements to visit England and Ireland, and bring about a practical

combination between the advocates of "the land for the people" on both

sides of the ocean. These arrangements he carried out in 1881-82,

publishing in 1881, in America, his treatise on the Irish Land question,

while Mr. Davitt, who had been arrested after his return to Europe by

Mr. Gladstone's Government in February 1881, on a revocation of his

ticket-of-leave, lay a prisoner at Portland. Mr. George himself, while

travelling in Ireland with an academical English friend, came under

"suspicion" in the eyes of one of Mr. Forster's officers, and was

arrested, but at once released. During the protracted confinement of Mr.

Davitt at Portland, the utter incapacity of Mr. Parnell and his

Parliamentary associates to manage the social revolution initiated by

the founder of the Land League became fully apparent, not only to

impartial, but even to sympathetic observers in America, long before it

was demonstrated by the incarceration of Mr. Parnell in Kilmainham, the

disavowal, under pressure, of the no-rent manifesto by Archbishop Croke,

and the suppression of the Land League. In sequestrating Mr. Davitt, Mr.

Forster, as was shown by the extraordinary scenes which in the House of

Commons followed his arrest, had struck at the core of the revolution,

and had the Irish Secretary not been deserted by Mr. Gladstone, under

influences which originated at Kilmainham, and were reinforced by the

pressure of the United States Government in the spring of 1882, history

might have had a very different tale to tell of the last six years in

Ireland and in Great Britain.[6]

V.

It was after the return of Mr. George from Ireland to New York in 1882

that the first black point appeared on the horizon, of the conflict,

inevitable in the nature of things, between the social revolution and

the Catholic Church, which assumed such serious proportions two years

ago in America, and which is now developing itself in Ireland. Among the

ablest and the most earnest converts in America to the doctrine of the

new social revolution was the Rev. Dr. M'Glynn, a Catholic priest,

standing in the front rank of his order in New York, in point alike of

eloquence in the pulpit, and of influence in private life. Finding, like

Michael Davitt, in the doctrine of Henry George an outcome and a

confirmation of the principle laid down in 1848 for the liberation of

Ireland by Finton Lalor, Dr. M'Glynn threw himself ardently into the

advocacy of that doctrine,--so ardently that in August 1882 the Prefect

of the Propaganda, Cardinal Simeoni, found it necessary to invite the

attention of Cardinal M'Closkey, then Archbishop of New York, to

speeches of Dr. M'Glynn, reported in the _Irish World_ of New York, as

"containing propositions openly opposed to the teachings of the Catholic

Church."

It did not concern the Propaganda that these propositions ran on

all-fours with the policy of the Irish Land League established by Mr.

Davitt, and accepted by Mr. Parnell. What concerned the Propaganda in

the propositions of Dr. M'Glynn at New York in 1882 was precisely what

concerns the Propaganda in the programme of Mr. Davitt as mismanaged by

Mr. Dillon in Ireland in 1888--the incompatibility of these

propositions, and of that programme, with the teachings of the Church.

Upon receiving the instructions of the Propaganda in August 1882,

Cardinal M'Closkey sent for Dr. M'Glynn, and set the matter plainly

before him. Dr. M'Glynn professed regret for his errors, promised to

abstain in future from political meetings, and begged the Cardinal to

inform the authorities at Home of his intention to walk more

circumspectly. The submission of Dr. M'Glynn was approved at Rome, but

it was gently intimated to him that it needed to be crowned by public

reparation for the scandal he had caused. He disregarded this pastoral

hint, and when the Archbishop Coadjutor of New York, Dr. Corrigan, went

to Rome in 1883 to represent the Cardinal, who was unequal to the

journey, he found the Propaganda by no means satisfied with the attitude

of Dr. M'Glynn. Two years after this, in October 1885, Cardinal

M'Closkey died, and Dr. Corrigan succeeded him as Archbishop of New

York.

Between the first admonition given to the sacerdotal ally of Mr. George

in 1882 and this event much had come to pass in Ireland. The Land League

suppressed by Mr. Forster had been suffered to reappear as the National

League by Earl Spencer and Mr. Trevelyan. Sir William Harcourt's

stringent and sweeping "Coercion Act" of July 11th, 1882, passed under

the stress of the murders in the Phoenix Park, expiring by its own terms

in July 1885, Mr. Gladstone found himself forced either to alienate a

number of his Radical supporters by proposing a renewal of that Act, or

to invite a catastrophe in Ireland by attempting to rule that country

under "the ordinary law."

He elected to escape from the dilemma by inviting a defeat in Parliament

on a secondary question of the Budget. He went out of power on the 9th

of June 1885, leaving Lord Salisbury to send the Earl of Carnarvon as

Viceroy to Ireland, and the Irish party in Parliament to darken the air

on both sides of the Atlantic with portentous intimations of a

mysterious compact, under which they were to secure Home Rule for

Ireland by establishing the Conservatives in their places at the general

election in November.[7]

What came of all this I may briefly rehearse. Going out to America in

November 1885, and returning to England in January 1886, I remained in

London long enough to assure myself, and to publish in America my

conviction of the utter hopelessness of Mr. Gladstone's "Home Rule"

measure, the success of which would have made his government the ally

and the instrument of Mr. Parnell in carrying out the plans of Mr.

Davitt, Mr. Henry George, and the active Irish organisations of the

United States. All this is matter of history.

The effect of Mr. Gladstone's speech of April 8, 1886, introducing his

Home Rule Bill, upon the Irish in America was simply intoxicating. They

saw him, as in a vision, repeating for the benefit of Ireland at Dublin,

on a grander scale, the impressive scene of his surrender in 1858 at

Corfu of the Protectorate of the Ionian Islands to Greece.

Upon thousands also of Americans, interested more or less intelligently

in British affairs, but neither familiar, nor caring to be, with the

details of the political situation in Great Britain, this appearance of

the British Premier, as the champion of Home Rule for Ireland,

denouncing the "baseness and blackguardism" of Pitt and his

accomplices, the framers of the Union of 1800, naturally produced a very

profound impression. What might be almost called a "tidal wave" of

sympathy with the Irish National League, and with him as its ally, made

itself felt throughout the United States. Had I witnessed the drama from

the far-off auditorium in New York, I might doubtless have shared the

conviction of so many of my countrymen that we were about to behold the

consummation tunefully anticipated so many years ago by John Quincy

Adams, and--

"Proud of herself, victorious over fate,

See Erin rise, an independent state."

The moment seemed propitious for a resolute forward move in America of

Mr. Henry George, and the other American believers in the doctrine of

"the land for the people." It would have been more propitious had not

the political managers of the Irish party, misapprehending to the last

moment the drift of things in the British Parliament, and counting

firmly upon a victory for Mr. Gladstone, either at Westminster or at the

polls, insisted upon holding a great convention of the Irish in America

at Chicago in August 1886. A proposition to do this had been made in the

spring of 1885, and put off, in judicious deference to the disgust which

many independent Americans of both parties then felt at the course

pursued by Mr. Parnell's friends, Mr. Egan and Mr. Sullivan in 1884,

when these leaders openly led the Irish with drums beating and green

flags flying out of the Democratic into the Republican camp.

As it was, however, Mr. Gladstone having gone out of power a second

time, on the second day of June in 1886, the non-parliamentary and real

leader in Ireland of the Irish revolutionary movement, Mr. Davitt, came

overtly to the front, and crossed the Atlantic to ride the whirlwind and

direct the storm at the Convention appointed to be held in Chicago on

the 18th of August.

In New York he found Mr. Henry George quietly preparing to put the

emotions of the moment to profit at the municipal election which was to

occur in that city in November, and Dr. M'Glynn more enamoured than ever

of the doctrine of "the land for the people," and more defiant than ever

of the Propaganda and of his ecclesiastical superiors. It was resolved

that Mr. George should come forward as a candidate for the mayoralty in

November, and Dr. M'Glynn determined to take the field in support of

him.

VI.

We now come to close quarters.

Dr. Corrigan, as I have said, had become the Archbishop of New York in

October 1885. The Irish-American Convention met at Chicago, Mr. Davitt

dominating its proceedings by his courageous and outspoken support of

his defeated Parliamentary allies in England. The candidacy of Mr. Henry

George had not yet been announced in New York. But Dr. M'Glynn resumed

his practice of addressing public meetings in support of the doctrines

of Mr. Davitt and of Henry George. The Archbishop's duty was plain. It

was not pleasant. A Catholic prelate of Irish blood living in New York

might have been pardoned for avoiding, if he could, an open intervention

at such a moment, to prevent an able and popular priest from disobeying

his ecclesiastical superiors in his zeal for a doctrine hostile to

"landlordism," and cordially approved by the most influential of the

Irish leaders.

But on the 21st August 1886, while all the Irishmen in New York were

wild with excitement over the proceedings at Chicago, Archbishop

Corrigan did his duty, and admonished Dr. M'Glynn to restrain his

political ardour. The admonition was thrown away. A month later, the

canvass of Mr. Henry George being then fully opened, Dr. M'Glynn sent

Mr. George himself to wait upon the Archbishop with a note of

introduction as his "very dear and valued friend," in the hope of

inducing the Archbishop to withdraw his inhibition and allow him to

speak at a great meeting, then about to be held, of the supporters of

Mr. George.

The Archbishop replied in a firm but friendly note, forbidding Dr.

M'Glynn "in the most positive manner" to attend the meeting referred to,

or "any other political meeting whatever."

Dr. M'Glynn deliberately disobeyed this order, attended the meeting, and

threw himself with ever increasing heat into the war against

landlordism. On the 2d of October 1886, therefore, he was formally

"suspended" from his priestly functions--nor has he ever since been

permitted to resume them. Another priest presides over the great church

of St. Stephen, of which he was the rector. More than once the door of

repentance and return has been opened to him; but, I believe, he is

still waging war in his own way, and beyond the precincts of the

priesthood, both upon the right of private property in land and upon the

Pope.

He is a man of vigorous intellect; and he has defined the issue between

himself and the Church in language so terse and clear that I reproduce

it here. It defines also the real issue of to-day between the Church

speaking through the Papal Decree of April 20, 1888, and the National

League of Ireland acting through the "Plan of Campaign."

No heed having been paid by Dr. M'Glynn to several successive

intimations summoning him to go to Rome and explain his attitude, he

finally, on the 20th of December 1886, wrote a letter in which, with a

single skilful turn of his wrist, he took out the core of Henry George's

doctrine as to land, which really is the core also of the Irish Plan of

Campaign, and thus laid it before the Archbishop of New York:--

"My doctrine about land has been made clear in speeches, in reports of

interviews, and in published articles, and I repeat it here. I have

taught, and I shall continue to teach in speeches and writings, as long

as I live, that land is rightfully the property of the people in common,

and that private ownership of land is against natural justice, no matter

by what civil or ecclesiastical laws it may be sanctioned; and I would

bring about instantly, if I could, such change of laws all over the

world as would confiscate private property in land without one penny of

compensation to the miscalled owners."

There is no shuffling here. With logical precision Dr. M'Glynn strips

Mr. George's doctrine of its technical disguise as a form of taxation,

and presents it to the world as a simple Confiscation of Rents. Many

acute critics of _Progress and Poverty_ have failed to see that when

Mr. George calls upon the State to take over to itself, and to its own

uses, the whole annual rental value of the bare land of a country, the

land, that is, irrespectively of improvements put upon it by man, he

proposes not "a single tax upon land" at all, but an actual confiscation

of the rental of the land--which for practical purposes is the land--to

the uses of the State, without a levy, and without compensation to "the

miscalled owners."

When a tax is levied, the need by the State levying it of a certain sum

of money must first be ascertained by competent authority, legislative

or executive, as the case may be, and the law-making power must then,

according to a prescribed form, enact that to raise such a sum a certain

tax shall be levied on designated property or occupations. If the

exigencies of the State are held to require it, a tax may be levied upon

property of more than its value, as in the case, for example, of the

customs duty which was imposed in one of our "tariff revisions" upon

plate glass imported into the United States by way of "protecting" a

single plate-glass factory then existing in the United States. This was

an abominable abuse of a constitutional power, but it was not

"confiscation." What Henry George proposes is confiscation, as Dr.

M'Glynn plainly sees and courageously says. What he proposes is that

the State shall compel the annual rental value of all land to be paid

into the public treasury, without regard to the question whether the

State does or does not need such a sum of money. That is confiscation

pure and simple, the State, in the assumed interest of the State,

proceeding against the private owners of land, or the "miscalled

owners," to use Dr. M'Glynn's significant phrase, precisely as under the

feudal system the State proceeded against the private property of rebels

and traitors. No good reason can be shown why the process should not be

applied to personalty and to debts as well as to land.

This was the doctrine indorsed at the polls in New York in November 1886

by 68,000 voters. Nor can there be much doubt that it would have been

indorsed by the few thousand more votes needed to defeat Mr. Hewitt, the

actual Mayor of New York, and to put Mr. Henry George into the Chief

Magistracy of the first city of the New World, had not its teachers and

preachers been confronted by the quiet, cool, and determined prelate who

met it as plainly as it was put. "Your letter," said the Archbishop,

"has brought the painful intelligence that you decline to go to Rome,

and that you have taught, and will continue to teach, the injustice of

private ownership of land, no matter by what laws of Church or State it

may be sanctioned. In view of such declarations, to permit you to

exercise the holy ministry would be manifestly wrong."

In these few words of the Archbishop of New York, we have plainly

affirmed in 1886 the principle underlying the Papal Decree of 1888

against the Plan of Campaign and Boycotting in Ireland. There is no

question of parties or of politics in the one case or in the other. When

Dr. M'Glynn talked about the private ownership of land in New York as

"against natural justice," he flung himself not only against the Eighth

Commandment and the teachings of the Catholic Church, touching the

rights of property, but against the constitutions of the State of New

York and of the United States. That "private property shall not be taken

for public uses without just compensation" is a fundamental provision of

the Constitution of the United States, which is itself a part of the

Constitution of every State of the Union; and the right of private

ownership in land is defined and protected beyond doubt or cavil in New

York under the State Constitution. An Act passed in 1830 provides and

declares that all lands within the State "are allodial, so that, subject

only to the liability to escheat, the entire and absolute property is

vested in the owners according to the nature of their respective

estates."

By this Act "all feudal tenures of every description, with all their

incidents," were "abolished." Most of the "feudal incidents" of the

socage tenure had been previously abolished by an Act passed in 1787,

under the first Constitution of the State, adopted at Kingston in 1777,

a year after the Declaration of American Independence; and socage tenure

by fixed and determinate service, not military or variable by the lord

at his will, had been adopted long before by an Act of the first

Assembly of the Province of New York held in 1691 under the first Royal

Governor, after the reconquest of the province from Holland, and in the

reign of William and Mary. This Act provided that all lands should "be

held in free and common socage according to the tenure of East Greenwich

in England." It is an interesting circumstance that the right of private

ownership in land, thus rooted in our history, should have been defended

against a threatening revolutionary movement in New York by the courage

and loyalty to the Constitution of his country as well as to his Church

of a Catholic Archbishop. For this same Assembly of the Province of New

York in 1693, in an Act "to maintain Protestant ministers and churches,"

enacted that "every Jesuit and popish priest" found in the Province

after a certain day named, should be put into "perpetual imprisonment,"

with the proviso that if he escaped and was retaken he should suffer

death. And even in the Constitution of 1777 the Protestantism of New

York expressed its hostility to the Catholic Church by exacting

subjection "in all matters ecclesiastical as well as civil."

The position of the Archbishop, both as a churchman and as a citizen,

was impregnable. When Dr. M'Glynn advocated the plan of Henry George, he

advocated at one and the same time the immoral seizure and confiscation

of the whole income of many persons within the protection of the

Constitution of New York, and the overthrow of the Constitution of that

State and of the United States. It may be within the competency of the

British Parliament to enact such a confiscation of rent without a

revolution, there being not only no allodial tenure of land in Great

Britain, but, it would appear, no limit to the power of a British

Parliament over the lives, liberties, and property of British subjects,

but the will of its members. But it is not within the competency of the

Congress of the United States, or of the Assembly of New York, to do

such a thing, the powers of these bodies being controlled and denned by

written Constitutions, which can only be altered or amended in a

prescribed manner and through prescribed and elaborate forms.

VII.

By the middle of October 1886 it became clear that Mr. George, whose

candidacy had at first been regarded with indifference by the party

managers, both Democratic and Republican, in New York, would command a

vote certainly larger than that of one of these parties, and possibly

larger than that of either of them. To put him at the head of a poll of

three parties would elect him. This was so apparent that he and his

friends, including Dr. M'Glynn and Mr. Davitt, were warranted in

expecting a victory.

It was hardly therefore by a mere coincidence that this precise time was

selected for opening the war in Ireland against Rent. It is quite

possible that if Mr. Dillon and his Parliamentary friends had been in

less of a hurry to open this war before the return of Mr. Davitt from

America, it might have been opened in a manner less "politically

stupid," if not less "morally wrong." But, of course, if Mr. Henry

George had been elected Mayor of New York, as he came so near to being

in November 1886, and Mr. Davitt had returned to Ireland with the

prestige of contributing to place him in the municipal chair of the most

important city in the New World, Mr. Dillon and his Parliamentary

friends would probably have found it necessary to accept a much less

conspicuous part in the conduct of the campaign.

It was on the 17th of October 1886 that Mr. John Dillon, M.P., first

promulgated the "Plan of Campaign" at Portumna, in a speech which was

promptly flashed under the Atlantic to New York, there to feed the

flame, already fanned by the eloquence of Dr. M'Glynn, into a blaze of

enthusiasm for the apostle of the New Gospel of Confiscation.

Had the "Plan of Campaign" then been met by the highest local authority

of the Catholic Church in Ireland, as Henry George's doctrine of

Confiscation was met in New York by Archbishop Corrigan, it might never

have been necessary to issue the Papal Decree of April 1888. But while

the Bishop of Limerick unhesitatingly denounced the "Plan of Campaign"

as "politically stupid and morally wrong," the Archbishop of Dublin

bestowed upon it what may be called a left-handed benediction. Admitting

that it empowered one of the parties to a contract to "fix the terms on

which that contract should continue in force," the Archbishop actually

condoned the claim of this immoral power by the tenant, on the ground

that the same immoral power had been theretofore exercised by the

landlord! Peter having robbed Paul from January to July, that is, Paul

should be encouraged by his spiritual guides to rob Peter from July to

January!

That the Catholic Church should even seem for a time to speak with two

voices on such a point as the moral quality of political machinery, or

that speaking with one voice upon such a point in America, it should

even seem to speak with another voice in Ireland, would clearly be a

disaster to the Church and to civilisation. From the moment therefore,

in 1886, when the issue between Dr. M'Glynn and the Archbishop of New

York was defined, as I have shown, and the Irish National League, with a

quasi-indorsement from the Archbishop of Dublin, had arrayed itself

practically and openly on the side of Dr. M'Glynn and against the

Archbishop of New York, interests far transcending those of any

political party in Ireland, in Great Britain, or in the United States,

were involved. Unfortunately for the immediate and decisive settlement

by Rome of the issue between Dr. M'Glynn and the Archbishop of New York,

a certain vague but therefore more vexatious measure of countenance had

been given, before that issue was raised, to the theories of Mr. Henry

George by another American prelate, the Cardinal Archbishop of

Baltimore, and by more than one eminent ecclesiastic in Europe. Of

course this would have been impossible had these ecclesiastics

penetrated, like Dr. M'Glynn, to the heart of Mr. George's contention,

or discerned with the acumen of the Archbishop of New York the

fundamental difference between any imaginable exercise of the power of

taxation by a Constitutional Government, and Mr. George's doctrine of

the Confiscation of Rent. But this having occurred, it was inevitable

that Rome, which has to deal with a world-wide and complex system of the

most varied and delicate human affairs, should proceed in the matter

with infinite patience and care. In January 1887 the Propaganda

accordingly cabled thus to the Archbishop of New York,--Dr. M'Glynn

persisting in his refusal to go to Rome--"for prudential reasons

Propaganda has heretofore postponed action in the case of Dr. M'Glynn.

The Sovereign Pontiff has now taken the matter into his own hands."

In the hands of his Holiness the matter was safe; and in the Papal

Decree of April 20, 1888, we have at once the most conclusive

vindication of the wisdom and courage shown by the Archbishop of New

York in 1886, and the most emphatic condemnation of the attitude assumed

in 1886 by the Archbishop of Dublin.

VIII.

It must not be assumed that Mr. George has been finally defeated in

America. On the contrary, he was never more active. A legacy left to

him by an Irish-American for the propagation of his doctrines has just

been declared by the Vice-Chancellor of New Jersey, to be invalid on the

ground that George's doctrines are "in opposition to the laws"; and this

decision has bred an uproar in the press which is reviving popular

attention all over the country to the doctrines and to their author. He

is astute, persevering, as much in earnest as Mr. Davitt, and as

familiar with the weak points in the political machinery of the United

States as is Mr. Davitt with the weak points in the political machinery

of Great Britain. This is a Presidential year. The election of 1888 will

be decided, as was the election of 1884, in New York. The Democratic

party go into the contest with a New York candidate, President

Cleveland, who was presented to the Convention at St. Louis for

nomination, not by an Irishman from New York, but by an Irishman from

the hopelessly Republican State of Pennsylvania, and whose renomination,

distasteful to the Democratic Governor of the State, was also openly

opposed by the Democratic Mayor of the city of New York, Mr. Hewitt, Mr.

George's successful competitor in the Municipal election of 1886.

Leaving Dr. M'Glynn to uphold the Confiscation of Land against the Pope

in New York, as Mr. Davitt, Mr. Dillon, and a certain number of Irish

priests uphold the Plan of Campaign and Boycotting against the Pope in

Ireland, Mr. George supports President Cleveland, and in so doing

cleverly makes a flank movement towards his "exclusive taxation of

land," by promoting, under the cover of "Revenue Reform," an attack on

the indirect taxation from which the Federal Revenues are now mainly

derived. Meanwhile the Cardinal Archbishop of Baltimore, who is also a

political supporter of President Cleveland, has not yet been confronted

by the supreme authority at Rome with such a final sentence upon the

true nature of Mr. George's "exclusive taxation of land," as the

clear-sighted Archbishop of New York is said to be seeking to obtain

from the Holy Office. What the end will be I have little doubt. But for

the moment, it will be seen, the situation in America is only less

confused and troublesome than the situation in Ireland. It is confused

and troubled too, as I have tried in this prologue to show, by forces

identical in character with those which confuse and trouble the

situation in Ireland.

Of the social conditions amid and against which those forces are working

in America, I believe myself to have some knowledge.

To get an actual touch and living sense of the social conditions amid

and against which they are working in Ireland was my object, I repeat,

in making the visits, of which this book is a record. More than this I

could not hope, in the time at my disposal, to do. With very much less

than this, it appears to me, many persons, whose views of Irish affairs

I had been inclined, before making these visits, to regard with respect,

must have found it possible to rest content.

CHAPTER I.

DUBLIN, _Monday, Jan. 30, 1888._--I left London last night. The train

was full of people going to attend levees and drawing-rooms about to be

held at Dublin Castle.

Near Watford we lost half an hour by the breaking of a connecting-rod:

but the London and North-Western is a model railway, and we ran

alongside the pier at Holyhead exactly "on time." There is no such

railway travelling in America, excepting on the Pennsylvania Central;

and the North-Western sleeping-carriages, if less monumental and

elaborate than ours, are better ventilated, and certainly not less

comfortable.

I had expected to come upon unusual things and people in Ireland, but I

had not expected to travel thither in company with an Irish Jacobite.

Two of my fellow-passengers, chatting as they smoked their cigarettes

in the little vestibule between the cabins of the carriage, had much to

say about Lord Ashburnham, and the "Order of the White Rose," and the

Grand Mass to be celebrated to-morrow morning at the Church of the

Carmelites in London, in memory of Charles Edward Stuart, who died at

Rome in 1788, and now lies buried as Charles III., King of Great Britain

and Ireland, in the vaults of the Vatican, together with his father

"James III.," and his brother "Henry IX." One of the two was as hot and

earnest about the "Divine Right of Kings" as the parson who, less than

forty years ago, preached a sermon to prove that the great cholera

visitation of 1849 was a direct chastisement of the impiety of the Royal

Mint in dropping the letters D.G. from the first florins of Queen

Victoria issued in that year. He bewailed his sad fate in being called

over to Ireland by family affairs at such a moment, and evidently did

not know that the Mass in question had been countermanded by the

Cardinal Archbishop.

The incident, odd enough in itself, interested me the more that

yesterday, as it happens, the Cardinal had spoken with me of this

curious affair.

He heard of it for the first time on Saturday, and, sending at once for

the priest in charge of the Carmelite Church, forbade the celebration.

Later on in the evening, two strangers came to the Archbishop's house,

and in great agitation besought him to allow the arrangements for the

Mass to go on. He declined to do this, and sent them away impaled on a

dilemma. "What you propose," said the Cardinal, "is either a piece of

theatrical tomfoolery, in which case it is unfit to be performed in a

church, or it is flat treason, in which case you should be sent to the

Tower!"

They went away, like the Senatus of Augsburg from the presence of

Napoleon--"_très mortifiés et peu contents_." After they had gone, the

Cardinal remembered that for some time past queer documents had reached

him through the post-office, setting forth the doctrine of Divine Right,

and the story of the Stuarts. One of these, which with the rest he had

thrown into the fire, was an elaborate genealogical chart, designed to

show that the crowns of Great Britain and Ireland ought rightfully to be

worn by a certain princess in Bavaria!

If there is anything more in all this than a new variety of the "blue

China craze," may it not be taken as a symptom of that vague but clearly

growing dissatisfaction with the nineteenth century doctrine of

government by mere majorities, which is by no means confined to Europe?

This feeling underlies the "National Association" for getting a preamble

put into the Constitution of the United States, "recognising Almighty

God as the source of all authority and power in Civil Government." There

was such a recognition in the Articles of Confederation of 1781.

Archbishop Ryan of Philadelphia should have mentioned to His Holiness

the existence of this Association, when he presented to Leo XIII., the

other day at Rome, President Cleveland's curious Jubilee gift of an

emblazoned copy of what a Monsignore of my acquaintance calls "the

godless American Constitution."[8]

We made a quick quiet passage to Kingstown. These boats--certainly the

best appointed of their sort afloat--are owned, I find, in Dublin, and

managed exclusively by their Irish owners, to whom the credit therefore

belongs of making the mail service between Holyhead and Kingstown as

admirable, in all respects, as the mail services between Dover and the

Continental ports are not.

I landed at Kingstown with Lord Ernest Hamilton, M.P. for North Tyrone,

with whom I have arranged an expedition to Gweedore in Donegal, one of

the most ill-famed of the "congested districts" of Ireland, and just now

made a point of special interest by the arrest of Father M'Fadden, the

parish priest of the place, for "criminally conspiring to compel and

induce certain tenants not to fulfil their legal obligations."

I could understand such a prosecution as this in America, where the

Constitution makes it impossible even for Congress to pass laws

"impairing the validity of contracts." But as the British Parliament has

been passing such laws for Ireland ever since Mr. Butt in 1870 raised

the standard of Irish Land Reform under the name of Home Rule, it seems

a little absurd, not to say Hibernian, of the British authorities to

prosecute Father M'Fadden merely for bettering their own instruction in

his own way. I could better understand a prosecution of Father M'Fadden

on such grounds by the authorities of his own Church.

A step from the boat at Kingstown puts you into the train for Dublin.

Before we got into motion, a weird shape as of one just escaped from

the Wild West show of Buffalo Bill peered in at the window, inviting us

to buy the morning papers, or a copy of "the greatest book ever

published, 'Paddy at Home!'" This proved to be a translation of M. de

Mandat Grancey's lively volume, _Chez Paddy_. The vendor, "Davy," is one

of the "chartered libertines" of Dublin. He is supposed to be, and I

dare say is, a warm Nationalist, but he has a keen eye to business, and

alertly suits his cries to his customers. Recognising the Conservative

member for North Tyrone, he promptly recommended us to buy the _Irish

Times_ and the _Express_ as "the two best papers in all Ireland." But he

smiled approval when I asked for the _Freeman's Journal_ also, in which

I found a report of a speech delivered yesterday by Mr. Davitt at

Rathkeale, chiefly remarkable for a sensible protest against the

ridiculous and rantipole abuse lavished upon Mr. Balfour by the

Nationalist orators and newspapers. I am not surprised to see this. Mr.

Davitt has the stuff in him of a serious revolutionary leader, and no

such man can stomach the frothy and foolish vituperation to which

parliamentary agitators are addicted, not in Ireland only. Unlike Mr.

Parnell, who is forced to have one voice for New York and Cincinnati,

and another voice for Westminster, Mr. Davitt is free to be always

avowedly bent on bringing about a thorough Democratic revolution in

Ireland. I believe him to be too able a man to imagine, as some of the

Irish agitators do, that this can be done without the consent of

Democratic England, and he has lived too much in England, and knows the

English democracy too well, I suspect, not to know that to abuse an

executive officer for determination and vigour is the surest way to make

him popular. Calling Mr. Forster "Buckshot" Forster did him no harm. On

the contrary, the epithet might have helped him to success had not Mr.

Gladstone given way behind him at the most critical moment of his

grapple with the revolutionary organisation in Ireland. We hear a great

deal about resistance to tyrants being obedience to God, but I fear that

obedience to God is not the strongest natural passion of the human

heart, and I doubt whether resistance to tyrants can often be promoted

by putting about a general conviction that the tyrant has a thumping big

stick in his hand, and may be relied upon to use it. Even Tom Paine had

the wit to see that it was his "good heart" which brought Louis XVI. to

the scaffold.

Nobody who had not learned from the speeches made in England, and the

cable despatches sent to America, that freedom of speech and of the

press has been brutally trampled under foot in Ireland by a "Coercion"

Government would ever suspect it from reading the Dublin papers which I

this morning bought.

As a Democratic journalist I had some practical knowledge of a true

"Coercion" government in America a quarter of a century ago. The

American editor who had ventured in 1862 to publish in a New York or

Philadelphia newspaper a letter from Washington, speaking of the

Unionist Government by President Lincoln, as the letter from London

published to-day in the _Freeman's Journal_ speaks of the Unionist

Government of Lord Salisbury, would have found himself in one of the

casemates of Fort Lafayette within twenty-four hours. Our Republican

rulers acted upon the maxim laid down by Mr. Tilden's friend, Montgomery

Blair,[9] that "to await the results of slow judicial prosecution is to

allow crime to be consummated, with the expectation of subsequent

punishment, instead of preventing its accomplishment by prompt and

direct interference." Perhaps Americans take their Government more

seriously than Englishmen do. Certainly we stand by it more sternly in

bad weather. Even so good a Constitutionalist as Professor Parsons at

Harvard, I remember, when a student asked him if he would not suspend

the _Habeas Corpus_ in the case of a man caught hauling down the

American flag, promptly replied, "I would not suspend the _Habeas

Corpus_; I would suspend the _Corpus_."

We found no "hansoms" at the Dublin Station, only "outside cars," and

cabs much neater than the London four-wheelers. One of these brought us

at a good pace to Maple's Hotel in Kildare Street, a large,

old-fashioned but clean and comfortable house. My windows look down upon

a stately edifice of stone erecting on Kildare Street for all sorts of

educational and "exhibitional" purposes, with the help of an Imperial

grant, I am told, and to be called the Leinster Hall. The style is

decidedly composite, with colonnades and loggie and domes and porticos,

and recalls the ancient Roman buildings depicted in that fresco of a

belated slave-girl knocking at her mistress's door which with its

companion pieces is fast fading away upon the walls of the "House of

Livia" on the Palatine.

At one end of this street is the fashionable and hospitable Kildare

Street Club; at the other the Shelburne Hotel, known to all Americans.

This seems to have been "furbished-up" since I last saw it. There, for

the last time as it proved, I saw and had speech of my friend of many

years, the prince of all preachers in our time, Father Burke of Tallaght

and of San Clemente.

I had telegraphed to him from London that I should halt in Dublin for a

day, on my way to America, to see him. He came betimes, to find me

almost as badly-off as St. Lawrence upon his gridiron. The surgeon whom

the hotel people had hastily summoned to relieve me from a sudden attack

of that endemic Irish ecstasy, the lumbago, had applied what he called

the "heroic treatment" on my telling him that I had no time to be ill,

but must spend that day with Father Burke, dine that night with Mr.

Irving and Mr. Toole, and go on the next day to America.

"What has this Inquisitor done to you?" queried Father Tom.

"Cauterised me with chloroform."

"Oh! that's a modern improvement! Let me see--" and, scrutinising the

results, he said, with a merry twinkle in his deep, dark eyes--"I see

how it is! They brought you a veterinary!"

This was in 1878. On that too brief, delightful morning, we talked of

all things--supralunar, lunar, and sublunary. Much of Wales, I remember,

where he had been making a visit. "A glorious country," he said, "and

the Welsh would have been Irish, only they lost the faith." Full of love

for Ireland as he was, he was beginning then to be troubled by symptoms

in the Nationalist movement, which could not be regarded with composure

by one who, in his youth at Rome, had seen, with me, the devil of

extremes drive Italy down a steep place into the sea.

Five years afterwards I landed at Queenstown, in July 1883, intending to

visit him at Tallaght. But when the letter which I sent to announce my

coming reached the monastery, the staunchest Soldier of the Church in

Ireland lay there literally "dead on the field of honour." Chatham, in

the House of Lords, John Quincy Adams, in the House of Representatives,

fell in harness, but neither death so speaks to the heart as the simple

and sublime self-sacrifice of the great Dominican, dragging himself from

his dying bed into Dublin to spend the last splendour of his genius and

his life for the starving children of the poor in Donegal.

What would I not give for an hour with him now!

After breakfast I went out to find Mr. Davitt, hoping he might suggest

some way of seeing the Nationalist meeting on Wednesday night without

undergoing the dismal penance of sitting out all the speeches. I wished

also to ask him why at Rathkeale he talked about the Dunravens as

"absentees." He was born in Lord Lucan's country, and may know little of

Limerick, but he surely ought to know that Adare Manor was built of

Irish materials, and by Irish workmen, under the eye of Lord Dunraven,

all the finest ornamental work, both in wood and in stone, of the

mansion, being done by local mechanics; and also that the present owners

of Adare spend a large part of every year in the country, and are

deservedly popular. He was not to be found at the National League

headquarters, nor yet at the Imperial Hotel, which is his usual resort,

as Morrison's is the resort of Mr. Parnell. So I sent him a note through

the Post-Office.

"You had better seal it with wax," said a friend, in whose chambers I

wrote it.

"Pray, why?"

"Oh! all the letters to well-known people that are not opened by the

police are opened by the Nationalist clerks in the Post-Offices. 'Tis a

way we've always had with us in Ireland!"

I had some difficulty in finding the local habitation of the "National

League." I had been told it was in O'Connell Street, and sharing the

usual and foolish aversion of my sex to asking questions on the highway,

I perambulated a good many streets and squares before I discovered that

it has pleased the local authorities to unbaptize Sackville Street, "the

finest thoroughfare in Europe," and convert it into "O'Connell Street."

But they have failed so ignominiously that the National League finds

itself obliged to put up a huge sign over its doorways, notifying all

the world that the offices are not where they appear to be in Upper

Sackville Street at all, but in "O'Connell Street." The effect is as

ludicrous as it is instructive. Oddly enough, they have not attempted to

change the name of another thoroughfare which keeps green the "pious and

immortal memory" of William III., dear to all who in England or America

go in fear and horror of the scarlet woman that sitteth upon the seven

hills! There is a fashion, too, in Dublin of putting images of little

white horses into the fanlights over the doorways, which seems to smack

of an undue reverence for the Protestant Succession and the House of

Hanover.

What you expect is the thing you never find in Ireland. I had rather

thoughtlessly taken it for granted the city would be agog with the great

Morley reception which is to come off on Wednesday night. There is a

good deal about it in the _Freeman's Journal_ to-day, but chiefly

touching a sixpenny quarrel which has sprung up between the Reception

Committee and the Trades Council over the alleged making of contracts by

the Committee with "houses not employing members of the regular trades."

For this the typos and others propose to "boycott" the Committee and the

Reception and the Liberators from over the sea. From casual

conversations I gather that there is much more popular interest in the

release, on Wednesday, of Mr. T.D. Sullivan, ex-Lord Mayor, champion

swimmer, M.P., poet, and patriot. A Nationalist acquaintance of mine

tells me that in Tullamore Mr. Sullivan has been most prolific of

poetry. He has composed a song which I am afraid will hardly please my

Irish Nationalist friends in America:

"We are sons of Sister Isles,

Englishmen and Irishmen,

On our friendship Heaven smiles;

Tyrant's schemes and Tory wiles

Ne'er shall make us foes again."

There is to be a Drawing-Room, too, at the Castle on Wednesday night.

One would not unnaturally gather from the "tall talk" in Parliament and

the press that this conjuncture of a great popular demonstration in

favour of Irish nationality, with a display of Dublin fashion doing

homage to the alien despot, might be ominous of "bloody noses and

cracked crowns." Not a bit of it! I asked my jarvey, for instance, on an

outside car this afternoon, whether he expected a row to result from

these counter currents of the classes and the masses. "A row!" he

replied, looking around at me in amazement. "A row is it? and what for

would there be? Shure they'll be through with the procession in time to

see the carriages!"

Obviously he saw nothing in either show to offend anybody; though he

could clearly understand that an intelligent citizen might be vexed if

he found himself obliged to sacrifice one of them in order to fully

enjoy the other.

Lady Londonderry, it seems, is not yet well enough to cross the Channel;

but the Duchess of Marlborough, who is staying here with her nephew the

Lord-Lieutenant, has volunteered to assist him in holding the

Drawing-Room, whereupon a grave question has arisen in Court circles as

to whether the full meed of honours due to a Vice-Queen regnant ought to

be paid also to an ex-Vice-Queen. This is debated by the Dublin dames as

hotly as official women in Washington fight over the eternal question of

the relative precedence due to the wives of Senators and "Cabinet

Ministers." It will be a dark day for the democracy when women get the

suffrage--and use it.

At luncheon to-day I met the Attorney-General, Mr. O'Brien, who, with

prompt Irish hospitality, asked me to dine with him to-morrow night, and

Mr. Wilson of the London _Times_, an able writer on Irish questions from

the English point of view. Mr. Balfour, who was expected, did not

appear, being detained by guests at his own residence in the Park.

I went to see him in the afternoon at the Castle, and found him in

excellent spirits; certainly the mildest-mannered and most sensible

despot who ever trampled in the dust the liberties of a free people. He

was quite delightful about the abuse which is now daily heaped upon him

in speeches and in the press, and talked about it in a casual dreamy way

which reminded me irresistibly of President Lincoln, whom, if in nothing

else, he resembles alike in longanimity and in length of limb. He had

seen Davitt's _caveat_, filed at Rathkeale, against the foolishness of

trying to frighten him out of his line of country by calling him bad

names. "Davitt is quite right," he said, "the thing must be getting to

be a bore to the people, who are not such fools as the speakers take

them to be. One of the stenographers told me the other day that they had

to invent a special sign for the phrase 'bloody and brutal Balfour,' it

is used so often in the speeches." About the prosecution of Father

M'Fadden of Gweedore, he knew nothing beyond the evidence on which it

had been ordered. This he showed me. If the first duty of a government

is to govern, which is the American if not the English way of looking at

it, Father M'Fadden must have meant to get himself into trouble when he

used such language as this to his people: "I am the law in Gweedore; I

despise the recent Coercion Act; if I got a summons to-morrow, I would

not obey it." From language like this to the attitude of Father M'Glynn

in New York, openly flouting the authority of the Holy See itself, is

but an easy and an inevitable step.

Neither "Home Rule" nor any other "Rule" can exist in a country in which

men whose words carry any weight are suffered to take up such an

attitude. It is just the attitude of the "Comeouters" in New England

during my college days at Harvard, when Parker Pillsbury and Stephen

Foster used to saw wood and blow horns on the steps of the

meeting-houses during service, in order to free their consciences "and

protest against the Sabbatarian laws."

To see a Catholic priest assume this attitude is almost as amazing as to

see an educated Englishman like Mr. Wilfrid Blunt trying to persuade

Irishmen that Mr. Balfour made him the confidant of a grisly scheme for

doing sundry Irish leaders to death by maltreating them in prison.

I see with pleasure that the masculine instincts of Mr. Davitt led him

to allude to this nonsense yesterday at Rathkeale in a half

contemptuous way. Mr. Balfour spoke of it to-day with generosity and

good feeling. "When I first heard of it," he said, "I resented it, of

course, as an outrageous imputation on Mr. Blunt's character, and

denounced it accordingly. What I have since learned leads me to fear

that he really may have said something capable of being construed in

this absurd sense, but if he did, it must have been under the

exasperation produced by finding himself locked up."

I heard the story of Mr. Balfour's meeting with Mr. Blunt very plainly

and vigorously told, while I was staying the other day at Knoyle House,

in the immediate neighbourhood of Clouds, where the two were guests

under conditions which should be at least as sacred in the eyes of

Britons as of Bedouins. In Wiltshire nobody seemed for a moment to

suppose it possible that Mr. Blunt can have really deceived himself as

to the true nature of any conversation he may have had with Mr. Balfour.

This is paying a compliment to Mr. Blunt's common sense at the expense

of his imagination. In any view of the case, to lie in wait at the lips

of a fellow guest in the house of a common friend, for the counts of a

political indictment against him, is certainly a proceeding, as Davitt

said yesterday of Mr. Blunts tale of horror, quite "open to question."

But, as Mr. Blunt himself has sung, "'Tis conscience makes us sinners,

not our sin," and I have no doubt the author of the _Poems of Proteus_

really persuaded himself that he was playing lawn tennis and smoking

cigarettes in Wiltshire with a modern Alva, cynically vain of his own

dark and bloody designs. Now that he finds himself struck down by the

iron hand of this remorseless tyrant, why should he not cry aloud and

warn, not Ireland alone, but humanity, against the appalling crimes

meditated, not this time in the name of "Liberty," but in the name of

Order?

What especially struck me in talking with Mr. Balfour to-day was his

obviously unaffected interest in Ireland as a country rather than in

Ireland as a cock-pit. It is the condition of Ireland, and not the

gabble of parties at Westminster about the condition of Ireland, which

is uppermost in his thoughts. This, I should say, is the best guarantee

of his eventual success.

The weakest point of the modern English system of government by Cabinets

surely is the evanescent tenure by which every Minister holds his

place. Not only has the Cabinet itself no fixed term of office, being in

truth but a Committee of the Legislature clothed with executive

authority, but any member of the Cabinet may be forced by events or by

intrigues to leave it. In this way Mr. Forster, when he filled the place

now held by Mr. Balfour, found himself driven into resigning it by Mr.

Gladstone's indisposition or inability to resist the peremptory pressure

put upon the British Premier at a critical moment by our own Government

in the spring of 1882. Mr. Balfour is in no such peril, perhaps. He is

more sure, I take it, of the support of Lord Salisbury and his

colleagues than Mr. Forster ever was of the support of Mr. Gladstone;

and the "Coercion" law which it is his duty to administer contains no

such sweeping and despotic clause as that provision in Mr. Gladstone's

"Coercion Act" of 1881, under which persons claiming American

citizenship were arrested and indefinitely locked up on "suspicion,"

until it became necessary for our Government, even at the risk of war,

to demand their trial or release.

But if Mr. Balfour were Chief Secretary for Ireland "on the American

plan"; if he held his office, that is, for a fixed term of years, and

cared nothing for a renewal of the lease, he could not be more

pre-occupied than he seems to be with simply getting his executive duty

done, or less pre-occupied than he seems to be with what may be thought

of his way of getting it done. If all executive officers were of this

strain, Parliamentary government might stand in the dock into which

Prince Albert put it with more composure, and await the verdict with

more confidence. Surely if Ireland is ever to govern herself, she must

learn precisely the lesson which Mr. Balfour, I believe, is trying to

teach her--that the duty of executive officers to execute the laws is

not a thing debateable, like the laws themselves, nor yet determinable,

like the enactment of laws, by taking the yeas and the nays. How well

this lesson shall be taught must depend, of course, very much upon the

quality of the men who make up the machine of Government in Ireland.

That the Irish have almost as great a passion for office-holding as the

Spanish, we long ago learned in New York, where the percentage of Irish

office-holders considerably exceeds the percentage of Irish citizens.

And as all the witnesses agree that the Irish Government has for years

been to an inordinate degree a Government by patronage, there must

doubtless be some reasonable ground for the very general impression that

"the Castle" needs overhauling. It is not true, however, I find,

although I have often heard it asserted in England, that the Irish

Government is officered by Englishmen and Scotchmen exclusively. The

murdered Mr. Burke certainly was not an Englishman; and there is an

apparent predominance of Irishmen in the places of trust and power. That

things at the Castle cannot be nearly so bad, moreover, as we in America

are asked to believe, would seem to be demonstrated by the affectionate

admiration with which Lord Spencer is now regarded by men like Mr.

O'Brien, M.P., who only the other day seemed to regard him as an unfit

survival of the Cities of the Plain. If what these men then said of him,

and of the Castle generally, was even very partially true--or if being

wholly false, these men believed it to be true--every man of them who

now touches Lord Spencer's hand is defiled, or defiles him.

But that concerns them. Their present attitude makes Lord Spencer a good

witness when he declares that the Civil servants of the Crown in

Ireland, called "the Castle," are "diligent, desire to do their duty

with impartiality, and to hold an even balance between opposing

interests in Ireland," and maintains that they "will act with

impartiality and vigour if led by men who know their own minds, and

desire to be firm in the Government of the country." All this being

true, Mr. Balfour ought to make his Government a success.

Mr. Balfour introduced me to Sir West Ridgway, the successor of Sir

Redvers Buller, who has been rewarded for the great services he did his

country in Asia, by being flung into this seething Irish stew. He takes

it very composedly, though the climate does not suit him, he says; and

has a quiet workmanlike way with him, which impresses one favourably at

once.

All the disorderly part of Ireland (for disorder is far from being

universal in Ireland) comes under his direct administration, being

divided into five divisions on the lines originally laid down in 1881 by

Mr. Forster. Over each of these divisions presides a functionary styled

a "Divisional Magistrate." The title is not happily chosen, the powers

of these officers being rather like those confided to a French Prefect

than like those which are associated in England and America with the

title of a "magistrate." They have no judicial power, and nothing to do

with the trial of offenders. Their business is to protect life and

property, and to detect and bring to justice offenders against the law.

They can only be called Magistrates as the Executive of the United

States is sometimes called the "Chief Magistrate."

One of the most conspicuous and trusted of these Divisional Magistrates,

I find, is Colonel Turner, who was Secretary to the Lord-Lieutenant,

under Lord Aberdeen. He is now denounced by the Irish Nationalists as a

ruthless tyrant. He was then denounced by the Irish Tories as a

sympathiser with Home Rule. It is probable, therefore, that he must be a

conscientious and loyal executive officer, who understands and acts upon

the plain lines of his executive duty.

I dined to-night at the Castle, not in the great hall or banqueting-room

of St. Patrick, which was designed by that connoisseur in magnificence,

the famous Lord Chesterfield, during his Viceroyalty, but in a very

handsome room of more moderate dimensions. Much of the semi-regal state

observed at the Castle in the days of the Georges has been put down with

the Battle-Axe Guards of the Lord-Lieutenant, and with the

basset-tables of the "Lady-Lieutenant," as the Vice-queen used to be

called. At dinner the Viceroy no longer drinks to the pious and immortal

memory of William III., or to the "1st of July 1690." No more does the

band play "Lillibullero," and no longer is the pleasant custom

maintained, after a dinner to the city authorities of Dublin, of a

"loving cup" passed around the table, into which each guest, as it

passed, dropped a gold piece for the good of the household. Only so much

ceremonial is now observed as suffices to distinguish the residence of

the Queen's personal representative from that of a great officer of

State, or an opulent subject of high rank.

Dublin Castle indeed is no more of a palace than it is of a castle. Its

claim to the latter title rests mainly on the fine old "Bermingham"

tower of the time of King John; its claim to the former on the Throne

Room, the Council Chamber, and the Hall of St. Patrick already

mentioned. This last is a very stately and sumptuous apartment. Just

twenty years ago the most brilliant banquet modern Dublin has seen was

given in this hall by the late Duke of Abercorn to the Prince and

Princess of Wales, to celebrate the installation of the Prince as a

Knight of St. Patrick. It is a significant fact, testified to by all

the most candid Irishmen I have ever known, that upon the occasion of

this visit to Ireland in 1868 the Prince and Princess were received with

unbounded enthusiasm by the people of all classes. Yet only the year

before, in 1867, the explosion of some gunpowder at Clerkenwell by a

band of desperadoes, to the death and wounding of many innocent people,

had brought the question of the disestablishment of the Irish Church, in

the mind of Mr. Gladstone, within the domain of "practical politics"! By

parity of reasoning, one would think, the reception of the heir-apparent

and his wife in Ireland ought to have taken that question out of the

domain of "practical politics."

The Prince of Wales, it is known, brought away from this visit an

impression that the establishment of a prince of the blood in Ireland,

or a series of royal visits to Ireland, would go far towards pacifying

the relations between the two Islands. Mr. Gladstone thought his

Disestablishment would quite do the work. Events have shown that Mr.

Gladstone made a sad mistake as to the effect of his measure. The pains

which, I am told, were taken by Mr. Deasy, M.P., and others to organise

hostile demonstrations at one or two points in the south of Ireland,

during a subsequent visit of the Prince and Princess, would seem to show

that in the opinion of the Nationalists themselves, the impression of

the Prince was more accurate than were the inferences of the Premier.

There is nothing froward or formidable in the aspect of Dublin Castle.

It has neither a portcullis nor a drawbridge. People go in and out of it

as freely as through the City Hall in New York. There is a show of

sentries at the main entrance, and in one of the courts this morning the

picturesque band of a Scotch regiment was playing to the delectation of

a small but select audience of urchins and little girls. A Dublin mob,

never so little in earnest and led by a dozen really determined men,

ought to be able to make as short work of it as the hordes of the

Faubourgs in Paris made of the Bastille, with its handful of invalids,

on that memorable 14th of July, about which so many lies have passed

into history, and so much effervescent nonsense is still annually talked

and printed.

The greater part of the Castle as it existed when the Irish Parliaments

sat there under Elizabeth, and just before the last Catholic Viceroy

made Protestantism penal, and planned the transformation of Ireland

into a French province, was burned in the time of James II. The Earl of

Arran then reported to his father that "the king had lost nothing but

six barrels of gunpowder, and the worst castle in the worst situation in

Christendom."

Here, as at Ottawa, a viceregal dinner-table is set off by the neat

uniforms and skyblue facings of the aides-de-camp and secretaries. For

some mysterious reason Lord Spencer put these officers into chocolate

coats with white facings. But the new order soon gave place to the old

again.

At the dinner to-night was Lord Ormonde, who is returning to London, but

kindly promised to make arrangements for showing me at Kilkenny Castle

the muniment room of the Butlers, which contains one of the most

valuable private collections of charters and State papers in the realm.

_Tuesday, Jan. 31._--I lunched to-day with Sir Michael Morris, the Lord

Chief Justice of Ireland, whom I had last seen in Rome at the Jubilee

Mass of His Holiness. Sir Michael is one of the recognised lights of

social life and of the law in Dublin. While he was in Rome some one

highly commended him in the presence of that staunch Nationalist the

Archbishop of Dublin, who assented so far as to say, "Yes, yes, there

are worse fellows in Dublin than that Morris!" It would be hard to find

a more typical Irishman of the better sort than Sir Michael, a man more

sure, in the words of Sheridan, to "carry his honour and his brogue

unstained to the grave."

The brogue of Sir Michael, it is said, made his fortune in the House of

Commons. It has hardly the glow which made the brogue of Father Burke a

memory as of music in the ears of all who heard it, and differs from

that miraculous gift of the tongue as a ripe wine of Bordeaux differs

from a ripe wine of Burgundy. But to the ordinary brogue of the street

and the stage, it is as is a Brane Mouton Rothschild of 1868 to the

casual Médoc of a Parisian restaurant. "Do you know Father Healy?" said

one of the company to whom I spoke of it; "he was at a wedding with Sir

Michael. As the happy pair drove off under the usual shower of rice and

old slippers, Sir Michael said to the Father, 'How I wish I had

something to throw after her!' 'Ah, throw your brogue after her,'

replied the Father."

This brogue comes to Sir Michael lawfully enough. He belongs to one of

the fourteen tribes of Galway. His father, Mr. Martin Morris, was High

Sheriff of the County of Galway City in 1841, being the first Catholic

who had served that office since the time of Tyrconnel. His mother was a

Blake of Galway, and the family seat, Spiddal, came to them through a

Fitzpatrick. "Remember these things," said one of the guests to me, a

Catholic from the south of Ireland, "and remember that Sir Michael, like

myself, and, so far as I know, like every Irish Catholic in this room

to-day, is a thoroughgoing Unionist, who would think it midsummer

madness to hand Ireland over to the 'Home Rule' of the 'uncrowned king,'

Mr. Parnell, who hasn't a drop, I believe, of Irish blood in his veins,

and who, whatever else he may be, is certainly not a Catholic. Didn't

Parnell vote at first against religion and in favour of Bradlaugh? and

didn't he do this to force the bargain for the clerical franchise at the

Parliamentary conventions?"

"But there are some good Catholics, are there not," I answered, "and

some good Christians, and of Irish blood too, among the associates of

Mr. Parnell?"

"Associates!" he exclaimed; "if you know anything of Mr. Parnell, you

must know that he has no associates. He has followers, and he has

instruments, but he has no associates. The only Irishmen whom he has

really taken counsel with, or treated, I was about to say, with ordinary

civility, were Egan and Brennan. His manner with them was always

conspicuously different from his cold and almost contemptuous bearing

towards the men whom he commands in Parliament, and Egan, who directs

his forces in your country, rewards him by calling him 'the great and

gifted leader of _our_ race!' 'Our race' indeed! Parnell comes of the

conquering race in Ireland, and he never forgets it, or lets his

subordinates forget it. I was in Galway when he came over there suddenly

to quell the revolt organised by Healy. The rebels were at white-heat

before he came. But he strode in among them like a huntsman among the

hounds--marched Healy off into a little room, and brought him out again

in ten minutes, cowed and submissive, but filled, as anybody can see,

ever since, with a dull smouldering hate which will break out one of

these days, if a good and safe opportunity offers."

"How do you account, then," I asked, "for the support which all these

men give Mr. Parnell?"

"For the support which they give him!" exclaimed my new acquaintance,

"for the support they give him! Bless your heart, my dear sir, it is he

gives them the support! Barring Biggar, who, to do him justice, is as

free with his pocket as he is with his tongue--and no man can say more

for anybody than that--barring Biggar and M'Kenna and M'Carthy, and

perhaps a dozen more, all these men are nominated by Mr. Parnell, and

draw salaries from the body he controls; they are paid members, like the

working-men members. Support indeed!"

"But the constituencies," I urged, "surely the voters must know and care

something about their representatives?"

The gentleman from the south of Ireland laughed aloud. "Very clear it

is," he said, "that you have made your acquaintance with my dear

countrymen in America, or in England perhaps--not in Ireland. Look at

Thurles, in January '85! The voters selected O'Ryan; Parnell ordered him

off, and made them take O'Connor! The voters take their members to-day

from the League--that is, from Mr. Parnell, just as they used to take

them from the landlords. What Lord Clanricarde said in Galway, when he

made all those fagot votes by cutting up his farms, that he could return

his grey mare to Parliament if he liked, Mr. Parnell can say with just

as much truth to-day of any Nationalist seat in the country. I tell

you, the secret of his power is that he understands the Irish people,

and how to ride them. He is a Protestant-ascendency man by blood, and he

is fighting the unlucky devils of landlords to-day by the old 'landlord'

methods that came to him with his mother's milk--that is rightly

speaking, I should say, with his father's," and here he burst out

laughing at his own bull--"for his mother, poor lady, she was an

American."

"Thank you," I said.

"Oh, no harm at all! But did you ever know her? An odd woman she was,

and is."

"Her father," I replied, "was a gallant American sailor of Scottish

blood."

"Oh yes, and is it true that he got a great hatred of England from being

captured in the _Chesapeake_ by the English Captain Broke? I always

heard that."

I explained that there were historical difficulties in the way of

accepting this legend, and that Commodore Stewart's experiences, during

the war of 1812, had been those of a captor, not of a captive.

"Well, a clever woman she is, only very odd. She was a great terror, I

remember, to a worthy Protestant parson, near Avondale; she used to come

at him quite unexpectedly with such a power of theological discussion,

and put him beside himself with questions he couldn't answer."

"Very likely," I replied, "but she has transferred her interest to

politics now; and she had the good sense, at the Chicago Convention in

1886, to warn the physical-force men against showing their hand too

plainly in support of her son."

A curious conversation, as showing the personal bitterness of politics

here. It reminded me of Dr. Duche's description in his famous letter to

Washington of the party which carried the Declaration of Independence

through the Continental Congress. But it had a special interest for me

as confirming the inferences I have often drawn as to Mr. Parnell's

relations with his party, from his singular and complete isolation among

them. I remember the profound astonishment of my young friend Mr. D----,

of New York, who, as the son of, perhaps, the most conspicuous and

influential American advocate of Home Rule, had confidently counted upon

seeing Mr. Parnell in London, when he found that the most important

member of the Irish Parliamentary party, in point of position, was

utterly unable to get at Mr. Parnell for him, or even to ascertain where

Mr. Parnell could be reached by letter.

Though a staunch Unionist, Sir Michael is no blind admirer of things as

they are, nor even a thick-and-thin partisan of English rule in Ireland.

"If you will have the Irish difficulty in a nutshell," he is reported to

have said to a prosy British politician, "here it is: It is simply a

very dull people trying to govern a very bright people."

He has quick and wide intellectual sympathies, or, as he put it to a

lawyer who was kindly enlightening him about some matters of scientific

notoriety, "I don't live in a cupboard myself." His own terse summing up

of the Irish difficulty could hardly be better illustrated than by the

current story of the discomfiture of an English Treasury official, who

came into his official chambers to complain of the expenditure for fuel

in the Court over which he presides. The Lord Chief-Justice looked at

him quietly while he set forth his errand, and then, ringing a bell on

his table, said to the servant who responded: "Tell Mary the man has

come about the coals."

At Sir Michael's I had some conversation also with Mr. Justice Murphy,

who won a great reputation in connection with those murders in the

Phoenix Park, which went near to breaking the heart and hope of poor

Father Burke, and with Lord and Lady Ashbourne, whom I had not seen

since I met them some years ago under the hospitable roof of Lord

Houghton. Lord Ashbourne was then Mr. Gibson, Q.C. He is now the Lord

Chancellor of Ireland, and the author of the Land Purchase Act of 1885,

which many well-informed and sensible men regard as the Magna Charta of

peace in Ireland, while others of equal authority assure me that by

reversing the principle of the Bright clauses in the Act of 1871 it has

encouraged the tenants to expect an eventual concession of the

land-ownership to them on merely nominal terms.

Naturally enough, he is carped at and reviled almost as much by his

political friends as by his political foes. In the time of Sir Michael

Hicks Beach I remember hearing Lord Ashbourne denounced most bitterly by

a leading Tory light as "a Home Ruler in disguise, who had bedevilled

the Irish Question by undertaking to placate the country if it could be

left to be managed by him and by Lord Carnarvon."

The disguise appears to me quite impenetrable, and after my talk with

him, I remembered a characteristic remark about him made to me by Lord

Houghton after he had gone away: "A very clever man with a very clever

wife. He ought to be on our side, but he has everything the Tories lack,

so they have stolen him, and will make much of him, and keep him. But

one of these days he will do them some great service, and then they'll

never forgive him!"

Lord Ashbourne went off early to look up some fine old wooden

mantelpieces and wainscotings in the "slums" of Dublin. A brisk trade it

seems has for some time been driven in such relics of the departed

splendour of the Irish capital. In the last century, when Dublin was

further from London than London now is from New York, the Irish

landlords were more fond of living in Dublin than a good many of the

Irish Nationalists I know now are. In this way the Iron Duke came to be

born in Dublin, where his father and mother had a handsome town house,

whereas when they went up to London they used to lodge, according to old

Lady Cork, "over a pastry-cook's in Oxford Street." In those days there

must have been a good many fine solidly built and well decorated

mansions in Dublin, of a type not unlike that of the ample rather

stately and periwigged houses, all British brick without, and all Santo

Domingo mahogany within, which, in my schoolboy days, used to give such

a dignified old-world air to Third and Fourth Streets in Philadelphia.

It is among such of these as are still standing, and have come to vile

uses, that the foragers from London now find their harvest.

From the Chief-Justice's I went with Lord Ernest Hamilton to a meeting

of the Irish Unionists. Admission was by tickets, and the meeting

evidently "meant business." I suppose Presbyterian Ulster was largely

represented: but Mr. Smith Barry of Fota Island, near Cork, one of the

kindest and fairest, as well as one of the most determined and resolute,

of the southern Irish landlords, was there, and the most interesting

speech I heard was made by a Catholic lawyer of Dublin, Mr. Quill, Q.C.,

who grappled with the question of distress among the Irish tenants, and

produced some startling evidence to show that this distress is by no

means so great or so general as it is commonly assumed to be.[10] Able

speeches were also made by Mr. T.W. Russell, M.P. for Tyrone, and by

Colonel Saunderson, the champion of Ulster at Westminster. Both of these

members, and especially Colonel Saunderson, "went for" their

Nationalist colleagues with an unparliamentary plainness of speech which

commanded the cordial sympathy of their audience. "Is it possible,"

asked Colonel Saunderson, "that you should ever consent, on any terms,

to be governed by such--, well, by such wretches as these?" to which the

audience gave back an unanimous "Never," neither thundered nor shouted,

but growled, like Browning's "growl at the gates of Ghent,"--a low deep

growl like the final notice served by a bull-dog, which I had not heard

since the meetings which, at the North, followed the first serious

fighting of the Civil War. I was much struck, too, by the prevalence

among the audience of what may be called the Old Middle State type of

American face and head. A majority of these men might have come straight

from those slopes of the Alleghany which, from Pennsylvania down to the

Carolinas, were planted so largely by the only considerable Irish

emigrations known to our history, before the great year of famine, 1847,

the Irish emigrations which followed the wars against the woollen

industries in the seventeenth century, and the linen industries in the

eighteenth. A staunch, doggedly Protestant people, loving the New

England Puritans and the Anglicans of Eastern Virginia little better

than the Maryland Catholics, but contributing more than their full share

of traditional antipathy to that extreme dislike and dread of the Roman

Church which showed itself half-a-century ago in the burning of

convents, and thirty years ago gave life and fire to the Know-Nothing

movement. Even so late as at the time of Father Burke's grand and most

successful mission to America, I remember how much astonished and

impressed he was by the vigour and the virulence of these feelings. One

of the bishops, he told me, in a great diocese tried (though of course

in vain) to dissuade him on this account from wearing his Dominican

dress. These anti-Catholic passions are much stronger in America to-day

than it always suits our politicians to remember, though to forget it

may some day be found very dangerous. Even now two of the ablest

prelates of the most liberal of the Protestant American bodies, Bishop

Cleveland Coxe of Western New York, and Bishop Beckwith of Georgia, the

latter of whom I met the other day in Rome on his return from Palestine,

are promoting what looks very much like a crusade against the plan for

establishing a Catholic University at Washington. Bishop Cleveland

Coxe's denunciations of what he calls "the alien Church," point straight

to a revival of the "Native American" movement; and I fear that

President Cleveland's gift of a copy of the Constitution to Leo XIII.

will hardly make American Catholics forget either the hereditary

anti-Catholic feeling which led him, when Governor of New York, to

imperil the success of the Democratic party by his dogged resistance to

the Catholic demand for the endowment of Catholic schools and

protectories, or the scandalous persecution (it can be called by no

other name) of Catholics in Alaska, which was carried on in the name and

under the patronage of his sister, Miss Cleveland, by a local missionary

of the Presbyterian Church, to the point of the removal by the President

of a Federal judge, who dared to award a Catholic native woman from

Vancouver the custody of her own child.

It is hard to imagine a greater misfortune for the Church in Ireland,

and for both the Church and the Irish race in America, than the

identification of the Home Rule movement with the Church, and its

triumph, after being so identified, and with the help of British

sympathisers and professional politicians, over the resistance of

Protestant Ireland. This dilemma of the Church in Ireland, plainly seen

at Rome, as I know, to-day, was forcibly presented in the speech of

Colonel Saunderson.

The chair at this Loyalist meeting was filled by the Provost of Trinity,

Dr. Jellett, a man of winning and venerable aspect, a kind of "angelic

doctor," indeed, whose musical and slightly tremulous voice gave a

singular pathos and interest to his brief but very earnest speech.[11]

To-night I dined with the Attorney-General, Mr. O'Brien. Among the

company were the Chief-Baron Palles, whose appointment dates back to Mr.

Gladstone's Administration of 1873, but who is now an outspoken opponent

of Home Rule; Judge O'Brien, an extremely able man, with the face of an

eagle; Mr. Carson, Q.C.; and other notabilities of the bench and bar. My

neighbours at table were a charming and agreeable bencher of the King's

Inn, Mr. Atkinson, Q.C., a leader of the Irish bar, and Mr. T.W.

Russell, M.P., who told me some amusing things of one of his colleagues,

an ideal Orangeman, who writes blood-curdling romances in the vein of La

Tosca, and goes in fear of the re-establishment of the Holy Office in

Dublin and London. In view of the clamours about the severity of the

bench in Ireland, it was edifying to find an Irish Judge astonished by

the drastic decisions of our Courts in regard to the anarchists who were

hanged at Chicago, after a thorough and protracted review of the law in

their cases. He thought no Court in Great Britain or Ireland could have

dealt with them thus stringently, it being understood that the charge of

murder against them rested on their connection, solely as provocative

instigators to violence, with the actual throwing of the bombs among the

police.

Some good stories were told by the lawyers; one of a descendant of the

Irish Kings, a lawyer more remarkable for his mental gifts than for his

physical graces.

A peasant looking him carefully over at Cork whispered to a neighbour,

"And is he really of the ould blood of the Irish kings now, indeed?"

"He is indeed!"

"Well, then, I don't wonder the Saxons conquered the Island!"

Of the Home Rule movement one of the lawyers said to me, "The whole

thing is a business operation mainly--a business operation with the

people who see in it the hope of appeasing their land hunger--and a

business operation for the agitators who live by it. Its main strength,

outside of the priests, who for one reason or another countenance or

foment it, is in the small country solicitors. The five hundred thousand

odd Irish tenants are the most litigious creatures alive. They are

always after the local lawyer with half-a-crown to fight this, that, or

the other question with some neighbour or kinsman, usually a kinsman. So

the solicitors know the whole country."

"When the League has chosen a spot in which to work the 'Plan of

Campaign,' the local attorney whips up the tenants to join it. The

poorer tenants are the most easily pushed into the plan, having least to

lose by it. But the lawyer takes the well-to-do tenants in hand, and

promises them that if they yield to the patriotic pressure of the

League, and come to grief by so doing, the landlord will at all events

have to pay the costs of the proceedings. It is this promise which

finally brings down most of them. To enjoy the luxury of a litigation

without paying for it tempts them almost as strongly as the prospect of

getting the land without paying for it. You will find that the League

always insists, when things come to a settlement, that the landlord

shall pay the costs. If the landlord through poverty of spirit or of

purse succumbs to this demand, the League scores a victory. If the

landlord resists, it is a bad job for the League. The local lawyer is

discredited in the eyes of his clients, and if he is to get any fees he

must come down upon his clients for them. Naturally his clients resent

this. If Mr. Balfour keys up the landlords to stand out manfully against

paying for all the trouble and loss they are continually put to, he will

take the life of the League so far as Ireland is concerned. As things

now stand, it is almost the only thriving industry in Ireland!"

_Wednesday, Feb. 1._--This morning I called with Lord Ernest Hamilton

upon Sir Bernard Burke, the Ulster King-at-Arms, and the editor or

author of many other well-known publications, and especially of the

"Peerage," sometimes irreverently spoken of as the "British Bible."

Sir Bernard's offices are in the picturesque old "Bermingham" tower of

the castle. There we found him wearing his years and his lore as lightly

as a flower, and busy in an ancient chamber, converted by him into a

most cosy modern study. He received us with the most cordial courtesy,

and was good enough to conduct us personally through his domain.

Many of the State papers formerly kept here have been removed to the

Four Courts building. But Sir Bernard's tower is still filled with

documents of the greatest historical interest, all admirably docketed

and arranged on the system adopted at the Hôtel Soubise, now the Palace

of the Archives in Paris.

These documents, like the tower itself, take us back to the early days

when Dublin was the stronghold of the Englishry in Ireland, and its

citizens went in constant peril of an attack from the wild and "mere

Irish" in the hills. The masonry of the tower is most interesting. The

circular stone floors made up of slabs held together without cement,

like the courses in the towers of Sillustani, by their exact adjustment,

are particularly noteworthy. High up in the tower Sir Bernard showed us

a most uncomfortable sort of cupboard fashioned in the huge wall of the

tower, and with a loophole for a window. In this cell the Red Hugh

O'Donnell of Tyrconnel was kept as a prisoner for several years under

Elizabeth. He was young and lithe, however, and after his friends had

tried in vain to buy him out, a happy thought one day struck him. He

squeezed himself through the loophole, and, dropping unhurt to the

ground, escaped to the mountains. There for a long time he made head

against the English power. In 1597 he drove Sir Conyers Clifford from

before the castle of Ballyshannon, with great loss to the English, and

when he could no longer keep the field, he sought refuge in Spain. He

was with the Spanish, as Prince of Tyrconnel, at the crushing defeat of

Kinsale in 1601. Escaping again, he died, poisoned, at Simancas the next

year.

Sir Bernard showed us, among other curious manuscripts, a correspondence

between one Higgins, a trained informer, and the Castle authorities in

1798. This correspondence shows that the revolutionary plans of the

Nationalists of 1798 were systematically laid before the Government.

When one thinks how very much abler were the leaders of the Irish

rebellion in 1798 than are the present heads of the Irish party in

Parliament, how much greater the provocations to rebellion given the

Irish people then were than they are now even alleged to be--how little

the Irish people in general have now to gain by rebellion, and how much

to lose, it is hard to resist a suspicion that it must be even easier

now than it was in 1798 for the Government to tap the secrets of the

organisations opposed to it.

Sir Bernard showed us also a curious letter written by Henry Grattan to

the founder of the great Guinness breweries, which have carried the fame

of Dublin porter into the uttermost parts of the earth. The Guinnesses

are now among the wealthiest people of the kingdom, and Ireland

certainly owes a great deal to them as "captains of industry," but they

are not Home Rulers.

At the Kildare Street Club in the afternoon I talked with two Irish

landlords from the north of Ireland, who had come up to take their

womenkind to the Drawing-Room.

I was struck by their indifference to the political excitements of the

day. One of them had forgotten that the Ripon and Morley reception was

to take place to-night. The other called it "the love-feast of Voltaire

and the Vatican." Both were much more fluent about hunting and farming.

I asked if the hunting still went on in their part of the island.

"It has never stopped for a moment," he replied.

"No," added the other, "nor ever a dog poisoned. They were poisoned,

whole packs of them, in the papers, but not a dog really. The stories

were printed just to keep up the agitation, and the farmers winked at it

so as not to be 'bothered.'"

Both averred that they got their rents "fairly well," but both also said

that they farmed much of their own land. One, a wiry, energetic, elderly

man, of a brisk presence and ruddy complexion, said he constantly went

over to the markets in England. "I go to Norwich," he said, "not to

Liverpool. Liverpool is only a meat-market, and overdone at that.

Norwich is better for meat and for stores." Both agreed this was a great

year for the potatoes, and said Ireland was actually exporting potatoes

to America. One mentioned a case of two cargoes of potatoes just taken

from Dundrum for America, the vessel which took them having brought over

six hundred tons of hay from America.

They were breezy, out-of-door men, both of them. One amused us with a

tale of espying, the other day, two hounds, a collie dog, a terrier, and

eighteen cats all amicably running together across a farmyard, with

their tails erect, after a dairymaid who was to feed them. The other

capped this with a story of a pig on his own place, which follows one of

his farm lads about like a dog,--"the only pig," he said, "I ever saw

show any human feeling!" The gentleman who goes to Norwich thought the

English landlords were in many cases worse off than the Irish. "Ah, no!"

interfered the other, "not quite; for if the English can't get their

rents, at least they keep their land, but we can neither get our rents

nor keep our land!" They both admitted that there had been much bad

management of the land in Ireland, and that the agents had done the

owners as well as the tenants a great deal of harm in the past, but they

both maintained stoutly that the legislation of late years had been

one-sided and short-sighted. "The tenants haven't got real good from

it," said one, "because the claims of the landlord no longer check their

extravagance, and they run more in debt than ever to the shopkeepers and

traders, who show them little mercy." Both also strenuously insisted on

the gross injustice of leaving the landlords unrelieved of any of the

charges fixed upon their estates, while their means of meeting those

charges were cut down by legislation.

"You have no landlords in America," said one, "but if you had, how would

you like to be saddled with heavy tithe charges for a Disestablished

Church at the same time that your tenants were relieved of their dues

to you?"

I explained to him that so far from our having no landlords in America,

the tenant-farmer class is increasing rapidly in the United States,

while it is decreasing in the Old World, while the land laws, especially

in some of our older Western States, give the landlords such absolute

control of their tenants that there is a serious battle brewing at this

moment in Illinois[12] between a small army of tenants and their

absentee landlord, an alien and an Irishman, who holds nearly a hundred

thousand acres in the heart of the State, lives in England, and grants

no leases, except on the condition that he shall receive from his

tenants, in addition to the rent, the full amount of all taxes and

levies whatsoever made upon the lands they occupy.

"God bless my soul!" exclaimed the gentleman who goes to Norwich, "if

that is the kind of laws your American Irish will give us with Home

Rule, I'll go in for it to-morrow with all my heart!"

After an early dinner, I set out with Lord Ernest to see the

Morley-Ripon procession. It was a good night for a torchlight

parade--the weather not too chill, and the night dark. The streets were

well filled, but there was no crowding--no misconduct, and not much

excitement. The people obviously were out for a holiday, not for a

"demonstration." It was Paris swarming out to the Grand Prix, not Paris

on the eve of the barricades; very much such a crowd as one sees in the

streets and squares of New York on a Fourth of July night, when the city

fathers celebrate that auspicious anniversary with fireworks at the City

Hall, and not in the least such a crowd as I saw in the streets of New

York on the 12th of July 1871, when, thanks to General Shaler and the

redoubtable Colonel "Jim Fiske," a great Orange demonstration led to

something very like a massacre by chance medley.

Small boys went about making night hideous with tom-toms, extemporised

out of empty fig-drums, and tooting terribly upon tin trumpets. There

was no general illumination, but here and there houses were bright with

garlands of lamps, and rockets ever and anon went up from the

house-tops.

We made our way to the front of a mass of people near one of the great

bridges, over which the procession was to pass on its long march from

Kingstown to the house of Mr. Walker, Q.C., in Rutland Square, where the

distinguished visitors were to meet the liberated Lord Mayor, with Mr.

Dwyer Gray, and other local celebrities. A friendly citizen let us perch

on his outside car.

The procession presently came in sight, and a grand show it made--not of

the strictly popular and political sort, for it was made up of guilds

and other organised bodies on foot and on horseback, marching in

companies--but imposing by reason of its numbers, and of the flaring

torches. Of these there were not so many as there should have been to do

justice to the procession. The crowd cheered from time to time, with

that curious Irish cheer which it is often difficult to distinguish from

groaning, but the only explosive and uproarious greeting given to the

visitors in our neighbourhood came from a member of "the devout female

sex," a young lady who stood up between two friends on the top of a car

very near us, and imperilled both her equilibrium and theirs by wildly

waving her hand-kerchief in the air, and crying out at the top of a

somewhat husky voice, "Three cheers for Mecklenburg Street! Three

cheers for Mecklenburg Street!"

This made the crowd very hilarious, but as Lord Ernest's local knowledge

did not enable him to enlighten me as to the connection between

Mecklenburg Street and the liberation of Ireland, I must leave the

mystery of their mirth unsolved till a more convenient season.

At Rutland Square the crowd was tightly packed, but perfectly

well-behaved, and the guests were enthusiastically cheered. But even

before they had entered the house of Mr. Walker it began to break up,

and long files of people wended their way to see "the carriages"

hastening with their lovely freight to the Castle. Thither Lord Ernest

has just gone, arrayed in a captivating Court costume of black velvet,

with cut-steel buttons, sword, and buckles--just the dress in which

Washington used to receive his guests at the White House, and in which

Senator Seward, I remember, insisted in 1860 on getting himself

presented by Mr. Dallas to Queen Victoria at Buckingham Palace.

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