CHAPTER XXXI

THE ATHEIST

Though I had known Suleymân for nearly two years, and had had him with

me for some six months of that time, I had never seen him in his

function of a dragoman, by which he earned enough in two months of the

year to keep a wife and children in a village of the coasts of Tyre

and Sidon, of which he spoke with heart-moving affection, though he

seldom went there. It was only after much insistence that he allowed

us to conduct him thither on one memorable occasion, when I could not

but admire his perfect manners as a despot. When first I met him he

had been a gentleman at large, and it was as that, and a familiar

friend, that he repaired to me whenever he had nothing else to do.

Judging from his gifts of conversation, which we all admired, and his

unbounded knowledge of the country, I thought that, as a guide for

tourists, he would be invaluable. So, when I heard that English

friends of mine were coming out to Palestine, I wrote advising them to

ask for him, him only; and I was glad to hear soon afterwards that he

was with them. When they came north, I joined the party at Damascus

and travelled with them for their last fortnight.

It did not take me many minutes in the camp to see that Suleymân was

not himself, and that my friends were not so charmed with him as I had

thought they would be. On the first evening in their tent I heard

complaints. They told me he was most unconscionably lazy, and would

not take them to the places they desired to visit. The trouble was, as

I soon learnt, that they possessed a map and guidebook which they

studied reverently every night, finding out places said therein to be

of interest. Suleymân, on his side, had, at setting out, possessed a

plan to make their tour the most delightful one imaginable. He hoped

by visiting selected spots and people to give it sequence and

significance. In a word, he was an artist in travel, wishing to

provide them with delicious memories, while they were English and

omnivorous of facts and scenes. When he learnt from various rebuffs

that they would not confide themselves to him, he lost all pleasure in

the tour. It was a listless and disgusted upper servant, most unlike

the man I knew, whom I found in gorgeous raiment sitting by the cook's

fire in the gardens of Damascus, which were then a wilderness of

roses.

He did not explain matters to me all at once. When I reproached him

for neglecting friends of mine, he answered only: 'It is the will of

Allah, who made men of different kinds, some sweet, some loathsome.'

But my arrival mended things a little. At least, my English friends

professed to see a great improvement in the conduct of Suleymân and

all the servants. I think it was because the poor souls knew that they

had someone now to whom they could express their grievances, someone

who would condescend to talk with them; for nothing is more foreign to

the Oriental scheme of life than the distance at which English people

keep their servants. In the democratic East all men are equal, as far

as rights of conversation are concerned. It is a hardship for the

Oriental to serve Europeans, and only the much higher and more

certain wages bring him to it.

My English friends had few good words to say for any of their Arab

servants; but I found they had conceived a perfect hatred for the

cook, who had undoubtedly a villainous appearance. He was a one-eyed

man with a strong cast in his surviving eye. A skull-cap, which had

once been white, concealed his shaven poll, and his long pointed ears

stood out upon it. He wore a shirt of indigo impaired by time, over

which, when riding, he would throw an ancient Frankish coat, or, if it

chanced to rain, a piece of sacking. His legs were bare, and he wore

scarlet slippers. To see him riding on an ass hung round with cooking

tins, at the head of the procession of the beasts of burden, suggested

to the uninformed spectator that those beasts of burden and their

loads had all been stolen.

I spoke about him to Suleymân one day when in my company he had

regained his wonted spirits, telling him of the extreme dislike my

friends had taken to the man.

'They are foolish,' he replied, 'to grumble at the figure of a mill

which grinds good flour. They profit by his cooking, which is

excellent. Indeed, he is the best cook in the world, and most

particular. I took great trouble to secure him for this expedition,

knowing that the Khawâjât were friends of yours.' The tone of

grievance in his voice became acute.

I feared that he was going to cry, so answered quickly:

'It is not that. They like his cooking. But his manners----'

'What know they of his manners? Has he ever entered the saloon or

bed-tent to defile them? Has he ever spoken insult in their hearing?

Inform me of his crime, and I will beat him bloody. But well I know he

has done nothing wrong, for I have kept him in the strictest order all

these days. It is only his appearance they object to; and that is

God's affair, not theirs. The Lord repay them!'

'You say that you have kept him in strict order? Is that necessary?'

'Of course it is, for the poor man is mad. I thought his madness would

amuse them; it is very funny. But Allah knows that there is not a

laugh in all their bodies. So I have kept him from approaching them.'

The word 'majnûn,' which I have here translated 'mad,' has often, as I

knew, a complimentary value; and I gathered from Suleymân's way of

speaking that the cook was not a raving maniac, but rather what in

English country-places we should call 'a character.'

I cultivated his acquaintance after that, and was astonished by his

powers of story-telling and of mimicry; still more, perhaps, by a

curious, dry scepticism, expressed facetiously and sometimes with

profanity, which was evident in almost everything he said. This it was

which chiefly pleased the waiter and the muleteers, who were his usual

listeners, since they were together on the road. They would laugh and

curse him in religious terms for a blasphemer and a wicked atheist,

reproofs which he received as high applause. It was his custom to

salute his friends with insults, which they took kindly from him,

being what he was. They told me in low tones of awe, yet with a

chuckle, that he had even sold his father's grave in a facetious way.

But I could never get them to relate that story clearly.

I could understand then why Suleymân had kept him in strict order on

the journey; for my English friends were quite incapable of seeing any

fun in such a character. Nor did I ever tell them of the great

adventure of that journey, in which their cook was very nearly done to

death.

It happened near the village of Mejdel esh-Shems, down in the valley

underneath Mount Hermon. We remained in camp there over Sunday, and on

Sunday afternoon my friends were resting in their tent. Suleymân and I

had seized that opportunity to go off for a ramble by ourselves, which

did us good. We were returning to the camp in time for tea, when a

crowd of fellâhîn came hurrying from the direction of our tents,

waving their arms and shouting, seeming very angry. Suleymân called

out to them to learn the matter.

'Zandîq!' (an atheist) they cried. 'Zandîq! Zandîq!'

'Where?' I asked, eagerly.

'There, in yonder tent,' an old white-bearded man informed me, with

wide eyes of horror. He pointed to the canvas windscreen against

which our famous cook sat gazing at the kettle he had set to boil for

tea. 'We go to fetch the wherewithal to kill him properly.'

'Stop!' said Suleymân peremptorily. 'You are mistaken. That is our

cook--a good, religious man, but mad occasionally.'

'No, there is no mistake, O lords of honour,' cried a score of voices;

while the old man who had pointed out the cook to me, explained:

'He said--may God protect us from the blame of it!--He said: "You see

that mountain! It is I who made it. Prostrate yourselves before me for

I made the world." We had been standing round him inoffensively,

asking him questions, as the custom is, about his parentage, his

trade, and so forth. But when we heard that awful blasphemy we rent

our clothes, and ran in haste to fetch our weapons, as thou seest.

Delay us not, for he must surely die.'

'Commit not such a wickedness! The man is mad.'

'No; he is sane.'

'Quite mad, I do assure you. Return with us, and I will prove it to

your understanding,' cried Suleymân.

I added my assurance. They came back with us, but murmuring, and in

two minds. I could not but admire the simple piety which prompted them

at once to kill a man whose speech betrayed him as an atheist. But I

was very much afraid of what might happen, and of the sad impression

it would make upon my English friends. And everything depended on the

cook's behaviour.

'I tell you he is mad,' said Suleymân, advancing towards the fire. 'It

were a sin for you to slay a fellow-creature thus afflicted. Come

hither, O Mansûr,' he cried as to a dog.

The cook rose up and came towards us with a foolish air.

'Lie down before my horse. I would ride over thee.'

The cook fell prostrate, then turned over on his back. His mouth hung

open idiotically; his tongue lolled out.

'Now rise and kiss my boot.'

The cook obeyed. By that time there were murmurs of compassion from

the would-be slayers.

'Spake I not truly?' asked Suleymân.

'Aye, O sun of verity! He is quite mad, the poor one,' said the old

man who had acted spokesman. 'It were a sin for us to kill him, being

in that state. His manner at the first deceived us. Allah heal him!

How came the dreadful malady upon him?'

'It came upon him through the pangs of unrequited love.'

'Alas, the poor one! Ah, the misery of men! May Allah heal him!' cried

the women, as the group of villagers moved off, contented. Just when

the last of them passed out of sight the longest tongue I ever saw in

man emerged from the cook's mouth, and the rascal put his finger to

his nose in a derisive gesture. Those portents were succeeded by a

realistic cock-crow.

'What makes the cook like that, devoid of reverence?' I asked of

Suleymân.

'It is because he was born in Jerusalem,' was the astonishing reply.

'He is a Christian, and was born poor; and the quarrels of the

missionaries over him, each striving to obtain his patronage for some

absurd belief, have made him what he is--a kind of atheist.'

Selîm, the waiter, who was near and overheard this ending, burst out

laughing.

'An atheist!' he cried. 'Your Honour understands? It means a man who

thinks there is no God. Just like a beetle!' and he held his quaking

sides.

Both he and Suleymân appeared to think that atheism was a subject to

make angels laugh. And yet they were as staunch believers as those

fellâhîn.

Oriental Encounters: Palestine and Syria, 1894-6 · 第 31 / 33 章