CHAPTER XXX

THE UNWALLED VINEYARD

One morning, as we rode along, we came to vineyards on a valley-side.

Rashîd dismounted and began to pick the grapes. Suleymân dismounted

likewise, and invited me to do the same.

'But it is stealing,' I objected.

'Allah! Allah!' moaned Suleymân, as one past patience. He hung his

head a moment, limp all over, as if the spirit had been taken out of

him; then called out to Rashîd, who was devouring grapes:

'Return, O malefactor, O most wicked robber! Thou art guilty of a

fearful crime. Thy master says so.'

Rashîd came back to us immediately, bringing a purple bunch, which he

was going to give to me when Suleymân prevented him, exclaiming:

'Wouldst dishonour our good lord by placing in his hands the fruit of

infamy, as if he were a vile accomplice of thy crime? For shame, O

sinful depredator, O defrauder of the poor!'

Rashîd gaped at him, and then looked at me. I held out my hand for the

grapes.

'Touch them not, for they are stolen!' cried Suleymân.

'I know not what thou wouldst be at, O evil joker,' said Rashîd, with

warmth; 'but if thou callest me a thief again, I'll break thy head.'

'_I_ call thee thief? Thou art mistaken, O my soul! By Allah! I am but

the mouthpiece of thy master here, who says that to pluck grapes out

of this vineyard is to steal.'

Rashîd looked towards me, half incredulous, and, seeing that I ate the

grapes with gusto, answered with a laugh:

'He does not understand our customs, that is all. By Allah! there is

no man in this land so churlish or so covetous as to begrudge to

thirsty wayfarers a bunch of grapes out of his vineyard or figs or

apricots from trees beside the road. To go into the middle of the

vineyard and pick fruit there would be wrong, but to gather from the

edge is quite allowable. If we were to come with sumpter-mules and

load them with the grapes, that would be robbery; but who but the most

miserly would blame us for picking for our own refreshment as we pass,

any more than he would stop the needy from gleaning in the fields when

corn is cut. What your Honour thinks a crime, with us is reckoned as a

kindness done and taken.'

'Aye,' said Suleymân, whose gift was for interpretations, 'and in the

same way other matters which your Honour blames in us as faults are in

reality but laudable and pious uses. Thus, it is customary here among

us to allow the servant to help himself a little to his master's

plenty in so far as food and means of living are concerned. The

servant, being wholly given to his master's service, having no other

means of living, still must live; aye, and support a wife and children

if he have them; and it is the custom of our great ones to pay little

wages, because they have but little ready money. Upon the other hand,

they have possessions and wide influence, in which each servant is

their partner to a small extent. No one among them would object to

such small profits as that cook of yours, whom you condemned so

fiercely, made while in your service. If the master does not care to

let the servant gain beyond his wages, he must pay him wages high

enough for his existence--certainly higher wages than you paid that

cook.'

'I paid him what he asked,' I said indignantly.

'And he asked what he thought sufficient in consideration of the

profits he felt sure of making in your service--a foreigner and a

young man of many wants.'

'I had told him that thou art of all men living the most generous!'

put in Rashîd. My dismissal of that cook had long been rankling in his

mind. 'It is the custom of the country,' he subjoined, defiantly.

'It is a custom which I very heartily dislike,' I answered. 'It seems

to me that people here are always grasping. Look at the prices which

the merchants ask, the way they bargain. They fight for each para as

if it were their soul's salvation. They are mad for gain.'

'Again you are mistaken,' answered Suleymân. 'They do not ask too much

from avarice, but for the sake of pastime. Indeed, you will find

sometimes that the price they ask is less than the real value of the

object, and still they let the buyer beat it down--for mere amusement

of the argument and for the sake of seeing what devices he will use.

In addition, they will give the buyer a nice cup of coffee--sometimes

two cups of coffee if the argument is long--and as many glasses full

of sherbet as he cares to drink.'

'And if the buyer will not pay the price, though much reduced, the

merchant often will present the object to him, as happened to your

Honour in Aleppo only the other day,' put in Rashîd.

'That was only a device to shame me into buying it.'

'No, by your Honour's leave!'

'Rashîd may well be right,' said Suleymân, 'although I cannot judge of

the peculiar instance since I was not present.'

Just then we came around a shoulder of the hill, and saw some people,

men and women, harvesting the grapes in a much larger vineyard.

'Now you shall see!' exclaimed Rashîd exultantly. He got down off his

horse and stooped over the nearest vines. The workers, seeing him, set

up a shout of 'Itfaddalû!' (perform a kindness), the usual form of

hospitable invitation. Since we refused to join them in the middle of

the vineyard a man came wading towards us, bearing on his head a

basket tray piled up with grapes. Suleymân picked out three monstrous

clusters, one for each of us, with blessings on the giver. To my offer

of payment the fellâh opposed a serious refusal, saying: 'It would be

a shame for me.'

'You see now!' said Rashîd, as we resumed our way. 'It is not robbery

for wayfarers to take refreshment.'

'And as for the custom of the merchants,' added Suleymân, 'in asking a

much higher price than that which they at last accept, what would you

have? Those merchants are rich men, who have enough for all their

needs. Their aim is not that of the Frankish traders: to increase

their wealth by all means and outdistance rivals. Their object is to

pass the time agreeably and, to that end, detain the customer as long

as possible, the more so if he be a person like your Honour, who loves

jokes and laughter. The greatest disappointment to our merchants is

for the customer to pay the price first asked and so depart

immediately. I have a rare thing in my memory which hits the case.

'Everyone has heard of Abdu, the great Egyptian singer, who died

recently. His only daughter met her death in a distressing way. It was

her wedding night, and bride and bridegroom died of suffocation owing

to the scent of flowers and perfumes in the bedroom where they lay. At

sight of the two corpses Abdu broke his lute and swore a solemn oath

never to sing again.

'He was rich--for he had earned much by his singing, often as much as

a hundred pounds a night--and he sought some means to pass the time

till death should come for him. He took a shop in Cairo, and hoped for

pleasant conversation in the course of bargaining. But the Egyptians

wished to hear him sing again, and men of wealth among them planned

together to buy up his whole stock-in-trade immediately. This happened

thrice, to the despair of Abdu, who saw his hope of pastime taken from

him. In the end he was compelled to get the Câdi to release him from

his vow, and sing again, although he would have much preferred to be a

merchant. That shows the difference between a trader in our cities

and one in any city of the Franks, whose sole desire is to sell

quickly and repeatedly.'

'There is no accounting for tastes,' was my reply. 'For my part I

detest this bargaining.'

'When that is understood by decent merchants they will not afflict

thee. They will ask thee a fair price and let thee go--though with

regret, for they would rather spend an hour in talk with thee,' said

Suleymân indulgently. 'It is a game of wits which most men like.' He

shrugged his shoulders.

'Your Honour was relating yesterday,' observed Rashîd, with grievance

in his tone, 'how an Englishman of your acquaintance in our country

accused his servants of dishonesty. Doubtless he distrusted them and

locked things up, which is the same as saying to them: "It is my locks

and my vigilance against your wits." Few men of spirit could resist a

challenge such as that, which is indeed to urge men on to robbery. But

where the master trusts his servants and leaves all things to their

care, only a son of infamy would dream of robbing him.'

'Let me propound the matter otherwise for understanding. Seeing that

open vineyard, with a wall but two stones high, no man would think of

plundering the crop of grapes. But surround that vineyard with a high,

strong wall, and every son of Adam will conceive the project of

clearing it of every cluster.'

'I should never think of such a thing.'

'That is because your Honour is accustomed to restraints and

barriers,' said Suleymân. 'We, in the Sultan's dominions, have more

freedom, praise to Allah! For us a high wall is an insult, save in

cities.'

Oriental Encounters: Palestine and Syria, 1894-6 · 第 30 / 33 章