At Mayence I embarked on the Rhine for Cologne (above 100 English miles
distant), to see the banks of a river so highly celebrated. Our company
in the boat was not numerous, and would have been sufficiently
agreeable, but for the continual _political rhapsodies_ of two
Frenchmen, one of whom was an officer, and spoke with confidence of
recovering all the conquests of France. These Frenchmen, in spite of the
remonstrances of the Germans present, insisted, like the physicians in
Molière, _that they best knew what was for their good_, and that they
(the Germans) mast be again united to France. One of these politicians
asked me, if I did not think that Talleyrand would demand the left bank
of the Rhine, as _essential_ to France, at the congress of Vienna. I
answered, I did not think it was probable he would ask for countries
which France had so recently relinquished, nor was it to be expected
that the Allies would, to oblige him, depart from their principle of
restraining France within those boundaries, which had, for centuries,
been found as extensive as were consistent with the tranquillity of the
rest of Europe; and that, for my own part, I could not conceive the
acquisition of those provinces to be _essential_ to France, which had
never been more prosperous than at a period when she formed no
pretensions to so great an aggrandizement.
Waving any further discussions on a subject which the _vanity_ of these
gentlemen would have extended _ad infinitum_, or, at least, longer than
I wished, I left them to their own lucubrations, and went on deck to
contemplate the grandeur of the scenery which surrounded us, and which
was reflected in the transparent waters of the Rhine. The river here
resembles a succession of lakes, and is surrounded in many places by
such lofty mountains, that I was often at a loss to guess on which side
we should find an opening to continue our course. The country along the
Rhine is considered as one of the richest districts in Europe; it
abounds with considerable towns, and with villages which, in other
countries, would be considered as towns. Almost every eminence is
crowned with an ancient castle, and there is scarcely a reach of the
river which does not exhibit some ruin in the boldest situation that can
be imagined. The houses too being mostly white, and covered with blue
slates, add considerably to the beauty of the scene.
The _Tour de Souris_ is situated on an island near the _Gulph of
Bingerlock_, where the river presents a curious appearance, being
extremely agitated by hidden rocks, and the different currents are very
violent. We dined at Bingen, where the Noh falls into the Rhine. The
mountains of Niederwald cast a considerable shade around, and the
mixture of woods and vineyards is highly picturesque, but the vines
being mostly blighted, had this year the same autumnal tint as the
trees. In this country, the vine is _almost the only product_ of the
soil, and the inhabitants, who subsist chiefly by it, now behold with
regret its withered state, and are melancholy and inactive, instead of
being engaged in the pleasing cares of the vintage.
This is the _third year_ here, as well as in Burgundy and other
districts, since there has been a favourable vintage; and it is only by
mixing some of the vintage of 1811, with that of the subsequent years,
that the inhabitants can dispose of a small portion of this inferior
produce.
Boppart was the former residence of the electors of Treves, but the
Palace is now falling to decay. Whilst contemplating this mouldering
pile, I was struck with the well-known sounds of our national air, '_God
save the King_,' which some of the company below sang in chorus (being
probably tired of the politics of the Frenchmen, as much as I was), this
air being originally German. The evening was fine for the season, and
about sun-set, several of the distant hills presented a fine appearance,
having bonfires ou their tops, this being the 18th of October, which
will be long celebrated in commemoration of the decisive battle of
Leipzig. Most of the company came on deck to witness the effect of the
bonfires. The Germans seemed delighted at the sight which the Frenchmen
surveyed in silence. One of them, however, soon recovering his
loquacity, asked me if I had been at _Paris_, which he said was the
greatest city in the world, and _larger than London_.
This I could not assent to, being contrary to fact. Yet it would he
difficult for _French ingenuity_ to prove what _benefits_ result to a
country from an overgrown capital. _Superiority_ is, however, all they
contend for. We soon saw the singular building (in an island) called the
_Palatinate_; it is now used as a public granary, and was _illuminated_
in honour of the day, as was also the neat village of St. Goar, where we
passed the night. _All_ seemed to partake of the festivity, and _I_
could net discern in the inhabitants any symptoms of regret that they
were no longer subject to France.
Having set out at an early hour, we reached Coblentz to breakfast. It is
a large town, containing 12,000 inhabitants, and is advantageously
situated at the confluence of the Moselle and Rhine. It was garrisoned
chiefly by the _Royal Guards of Saxony_, who exceeded in appearance any
troops I had seen on the Continent. Some of them are stationed in the
ci-devant palace, which is situated close to the river.
The lofty mountain opposite the town is covered with the _ruins of
Ehrenbreitstein_, which was at one time considered as the strongest
fortress on the Rhine. Opposite the town was a bridge of boats, but it
was destroyed in the last war, and a flying bridge is substituted pro
tempore. The Rhine is so rapid near Andernach, as never to freeze in the
severest winter, and it here proceeds longer in a straight course, than
I had yet seen in any part. Neuwied, although subject to inundations, is
a large well built and commercial town. Lower down, on the left bank of
the river, I observed an obelisk, which I found, on inquiry, was erected
to the French General Marsan, who fell during the period of the first
invasion of Germany by the French republicans. Still farther, and close
to the river, stands an ancient building, called _The Devil's House_,
but, from what circumstance, I could not exactly discover. Some
attribute it to the vast number of windows which it contains.
The situation of Lowdersdorf is highly picturesque, and the surrounding
hills are shaded with woods of great antiquity. We here saw several
rafts of timber of large dimensions, proceeding slowly down the stream.
At Linz, the landsturm were mustered to fire a volley, as the victory of
Leipzig was celebrated for two or three days in most parts of Germany.
At Bonn, I witnessed further rejoicings, and the illuminations presented
a highly pleasing effect when beheld from the river. I was at this place
invited to a _ball and supper_, where I remained until a late hour,
enjoying the general festivity.
Bonn is a well built city, containing about 14,000 inhabitants, and was
formerly the general residence of the electors of Cologne. About a
league above the city are the seven mountains, and near them is a
beautiful island of considerable extent, in which is a large convent.
Here ends the picturesque scenery of the Rhine, which pursues the rest
of its course through a flat country, until its waters are dispersed
amongst the canals of Holland. The river is here of great width, but not
so deep as it is higher up.
Before Bonn we saw the remains of two merchant vessels which had been
wrecked there a few days before. Those who embark on the Rhine for
pleasure, should here leave their boats, and pursue the rest of their
journey by land, as the country ceases to be interesting, and the
navigation is often difficult.
We set out with a favourable wind; but about a league from _Cologne_ our
boat was driven on the right bank of the Rhine by a violent gale; and as
there appeared no immediate prospect of proceeding by water, most of the
party determined on walking to the city. We found the flying bridge had
been damaged by the late storm, and were therefore obliged, to wait a
long time for a boat of sufficient size to pass the river, which was
greatly agitated, and which is here of great depth, although much
narrower than at _Mayence_. Few cities present a more imposing
appearance than Cologne; a vast extent of buildings, a profusion of
steeples, and a forest of masts, raise the expectations of the
traveller. The deception cannot be more justly or more emphatically
described than in the words of Dr._Johnson:_ "Remotely we see nothing
but spires of temples, and turrets of palaces, and imagine it the
residence of splendour, grandeur, and magnificence; but when we have
passed the gates, we find it perplexed with narrow passages, disgraced
with despicable cottages, embarrassed with obstructions, and clouded
with smoke."
Cologne is one of the largest and most ancient cities in Germany; it was
founded by _Agrippa_, and is above three miles in length; but the
population is only between 40 and 50,000, which is very inconsiderable
for its great extent. From the number of its churches, which at one time
amounted to 300, it has been called the Rome of Germany. One of them
(the Dome), although still unfinished, is one of the grandest efforts
of architecture, and excites the admiration of all judges of that art.
The port owes its improvement to Buonaparte, and the quay is lined with
ships of considerable size.
The city was anciently imperial, and the Elector of Cologne could not
reside more than three days together in it without permission of the
magistrates; but those who have ever seen this gloomy city, will not, I
think, consider this restriction as a grievance.
I here left the Rhine; it is difficult sufficiently to praise the
beauties of its banks, which afford also ample scope for the researches
of the naturalist. They are not, however, adorned with that number of
country-seats which enliven many of our rivers, and a few convents and
palaces only are to be seen; although villages and towns are very
numerous. I must not omit to mention, that I visited the house in which
_Rubens_ was born; his name is given to the street, which, like most
others at Cologne, has little beauty. He had furnished many of the
churches of his native city with paintings, but several of them have
been removed to Paris. He has been called _the Ajax of painters_, and
his great excellence appears in the grandeur of his _compositions_; the
art of colouring was by him carried to the highest pitch. Rubens,
however great his skill, deserves the praise of _modesty_, as, although
he is allowed to have been little inferior to Titian in _landscape_, he
employed Widens and Van-uden when landscapes were introduced into his
paintings, and Snyders for animals, who finished them from his designs.
The country around Cologne is well cultivated, but is unenclosed up to
the walls of the city, and there are none of those elegant villas to be
seen which distinguish the neighbourhood of Frankfort; but it is
impossible for any two places to be more completely the reverse of each
other in every respect.
My next stage was Juliers, the ancient capital of the duchy of the same
name; it is a small city, but is well fortified, and its citadel is said
to be of uncommon strength. As we approached Aix-la-Chapelle the roads
became very indifferent, the soil being a deep sand; they are, however,
in many places paved in the centre.
Aix-la-Chapelle is a large, and, in general, a well-built city. The
windows, in most of the houses, are very large, and give it a peculiar
appearance. It was called by the Romans _Aquisgranum_, or _Urbs
Aquensis_. It has for ages been celebrated for its waters, which
resemble extremely those of Bath; but some of the springs are still
hotter. There are five springs which attract every year much company;
but the season had ended before my arrival. This city was chosen by
_Charlemagne_ as the place of his residence, on account of the
pleasantness of its situation; and, until its incorporation with France,
held the first rank amongst the imperial cities of Germany. According to
the _Golden Bull_ the emperors were to be crowned here; but Charles V
was the last who conformed to that regulation.
The ancient walls of Aix enclose a vast extent of ground, and afford a
pleasant walk; but there is much of the space enclosed in fields and
gardens, and the population is not proportioned to the remaining
buildings, being no more than 30,000. The surrounding country is highly
picturesque and varied, cultivation and woods being interspersed. The
woods in this country have been, however, much diminished of late years.
But there are, it may be observed, coal mines to supply sufficient fuel
for the inhabitants.
The town or great village of Burscheid adjoins the gates of Aix; it is
very flourishing. Near it is a fine abbey. I was also pleased with the
ruins of the Castle of Frankenberg. Here is a manufactory of needles,
and about Aix are several of cloth.
From the Tower of Sittard is a view of vast extent over the Netherlands.
The cathedral of Aix is a large Gothic structure, but many of its
decorations are trifling, and inconsistent with the solidity of its
massy columns of marble and granite. Its doors are of bronze highly
wrought, but full of fissures.
The streets here are crowded with beggars; and I think I never was in a
place where so little respect is paid to the observance of Sunday. In
most towns on the continent the theatres, &c. are open, but most of the
shops are closed during some part of the day; here they were open during
the whole day, and seemed equally busy as during the rest of the week.
The country between _Aix_ and _Liege_ produces great quantities of hops
(the vine of the north of Europe), and the beer here is very good.
Clermont is a neat village, with several good houses.
We passed over some mountains, which seem to be the limit of the German
language; the inhabitants of them speak a dialect intelligible neither
at Liege nor Aix.
The country near Liege is rich, and the city is situated in a beautiful
valley on the Meuse; it is extremely large, but is ill built, and the
streets are more intricate and dirty even than those of Cologne. There
is a good deal of trade carried on here, and the population is estimated
at not less than 50,000. There are a great number of churches, but I was
not much struck with any of them; that of the Dominicans is said to be
copied from St. Peter's at Rome. There are a great number of booksellers
here, and I was told it was a famous place to procure cheap books. The
coal here seems of good quality, and the place is surrounded with
collieries. The lower orders in this city speak a jargon called
_Walloon_, which is completely unintelligible to the higher classes.
The French customs are generally prevalent here; and it is said, the
inhabitants regret their separation from France. There were vast
manufactories of cutlery here, but the French, before their departure,
destroyed most of the machinery; this, together with the failure of
other trades, is said to produce the distress which fills the streets
with beggars.
The _general appearance_ of the inhabitants of Liege is not more
prepossessing to a stranger than that of their city. There are said to
be a great number of _thieves_, and I saw some surprised whilst cutting
the trunks from behind a carriage at the inn-door. The money here is
extremely adulterated, and is not taken one stage from the city, a
circumstance which frequently is attended with great loss to the
traveller, if he has occasion to receive much change.
In this neighbourhood are several vineyards, but the climate is too cold
to admit of the wine having a good flavour. They here cultivate a
species of cabbage, the seed of which produces a thick oil, which is
used in dying stuffs, and forms part of the composition of the black
soap of this country.
I found that the season had long ended at Spa; that the roads were bad,
and that it was above thirty miles out of my way, and therefore
determined on proceeding to Brussels in the diligence, to make trial of
one of the public carriages of this country, having found the posting
good from Cologne to Liege. I found it extremely spacious, when compared
to those in England, and it was lined with faded yellow damask. I had
but two companions, who, according to _Rousseau's Axiom_, would not be
entitled to the name of _men_, which, he says, belongs to none under
_five feet six inches_.
They proved, however, sufficiently agreeable companions, and I found
they resided at _Louvain_. We proceeded at the rate of rather more than
four English miles an hour, which was quicker than I had before
travelled in a public carriage on the continent. Our first stage
presented nothing remarkable; but the next, _St. Tron_, was a remarkably
neat little town. There is a spacious square, surrounded with good
houses, and at one end is the _town-house_; the church is a large
building, and its steeple contains a set of musical chimes, to which the
people of this country are very partial.
We next reached _Tirlemont_, formerly one of the most considerable
cities of Brabant, which is at present by no means of equal importance.
The surrounding country is fruitful; many of its villages contain
cottages of clay, which I did not expect to see in so opulent a
province; they are indeed spacious, and the interior is kept very neat.
The general appearance of the people here is much more in their favour
than at Liege.
Tirlemont contains manufactures of flannels, stockings, and cloth. The
_cotton trade_, formerly the great staple of the Netherlands, has of
late years been greatly on the decline.
* * * * *