Tubingen is a large and ancient town, containing about 5000 inhabitants:
its situation is low, and it is chiefly worthy of notice, as being one
of the most celebrated _universities_ of the south of Germany. I was
informed by one of its members who travelled in the Diligence, that the
number of students did not then exceed 250, but that he had no doubt it
would increase as public affairs assumed a more settled appearance. Here
is little of that academic discipline, which distinguishes our
universities. There are no colleges, and the students live in private
houses, according to their respective inclinations. There are eight
professors, and an attendance on the lectures of such of them as the
student may prefer seems to constitute the sum of his academic duty.
There is a large botanic garden, which is kept in good order, and
contains a long range of green-houses and stoves.
I here agreed to accompany a gentleman of my acquaintance, who wished
to _travel post_ to Frankfort: and had no reason to regret having left
the Diligence, with the tediousness of which I was heartily tired. We
set out accordingly in a sort of cabriolet, resembling a covered
curricle, for Stutgard. We found much less delay at each post than we
were led to expect; and part of the time was employed in greasing and
examining the wheels of the carriage before starting: this custom
prevents many accidents, for that operation for which no time is
specified, is commonly neglected.
The price of each station is regulated by government; and the
postmasters and drivers are very civil and obliging; but the celerity
with which every thing is procured at an English inn, is not to be
expected here, as the Germans are habitually slow in all their
movements.
A German dinner is still more tedious than a French one, and it is
perhaps yet more foreign to our taste. The custom of sleeping between
_feather beds_, as it may be altered by the traveller, if unpleasant to
him, cannot be considered as a _grievance_; but all who have been
accustomed to the _social and companionable cheerfulness of a fire_,
must regret that custom, which here substitutes for it, the _dull and
unenlivening heat of a stove_.
That fire-place, which is so essential to the comfort of our apartments,
is by German taste placed in the passage and shut up, whilst heat is
conveyed into their rooms by flues.
We arrived at Stutgard without the occurrence of any thing worthy of
mention, and were much pleased with its general appearance; its streets
are spacious, and the houses mostly well built. The city has increased
considerably in size, since it has become the constant residence of its
sovereign. Its population is estimated at 24,000. It is an open place,
but although there are no fortifications there are gates, the only use
of which are to detain the traveller whilst his passport is under
examination. The reformed religion is here established, but the churches
have nothing to boast of in appearance. The palace is a handsome
building of Italian architecture, surrounding three sides of a square.
It is built of hewn stone, and over the centre entrance is placed a
large _gilt crown_. Not far from the modern palace is the ancient
_Château_, surrounded by a deep ditch, and flanked by gloomy bastions,
formerly the requisites to a prince's residence, but incompatible with
the luxury sought for in a modern palace.
Wishing to judge of the taste of a German palace, we procured a _Valet
de Place_ to conduct us over this; we found it fitted up in a manner
which corresponded in many points to that usual in great houses in
England. The suites of rooms are very numerous, but they are mostly of
small dimensions. Every apartment is provided with a musical clock. The
marbles, carpets, china, and glass lustres, are generally the production
of Wurtemberg. Many of these productions display much taste, and seem to
deserve the encouragement they receive.
A few of the rooms had fire-places, and almost all of them had to boast
of some specimens of the industry and ingenuity of the _Queen_, either
in painting or embroidery. There is a museum of considerable extent,
which opens into the _King's Private Library_, where the books are all
concealed behind large _mirrors_, so that we could not judge of either
the value or taste of the selection. In a building near the palace, is
the King's Public Library, but we were told there was nothing in it
particularly worthy of notice. There are but very few paintings by the
great masters in this palace; but we were particularly struck by a
portrait of _Frederick_ the Great, by a German artist. I have forgotten
his name; but this portrait proves his skill.
The Council Chamber is a handsome apartment, and contains two marble
figures of _Silence_ and _Meditation_. The Council Table is _long and
narrow_, which would not meet with _Lord Bacon's_ approbation, as, if I
recollect right, he gives the preference to a _round table_, where all
may take a part, instead of a long one, where those at the top chiefly
decide. We next visited the royal stables, which contain a vast number
of fine horses, the King being very fond of the chase.
I was informed, that in his _Private Stables_ here and at Ludwigsburg,
there were from 700 to 800 horses, a number which exceeds that of most
princes in Europe. The garrison of Stutgard consists of about 3000 men.
We saw some of the troops go through their evolutions; and I have seldom
seen a finer body of men. The band was remarkably fine. On the parade
were two little boys, sons of Prince Paul, who were decorated with
stars. Having sufficiently satisfied our curiosity at Stutgard, we
proceeded to Ludwigsburg, one stage distant, where there is a handsome
royal palace adorned with extensive gardens, and many enclosures for
game, of great extent. The town is not large, but is regularly built;
and the houses, as at Stutgard and many other places in Germany, are
remarkable for having a vast number of windows. After some delay about
_passports_, we were suffered to proceed, as they sometimes will not
give post horses without examining the passports. Beyond the town we met
several waggons, one of them I remarked was drawn by fourteen horses.
There is much more traffic on this road than on any I had yet travelled.
We passed through but one great town, Heilbron, formerly an imperial
free city, but which, together with Ulm and many others, was _given_ by
Buonaparte to the King of Wurtemberg. It is a tolerably well built
place; and from the number of vessels in the river, I conclude it has a
share of trade. The country round it is unenclosed, and for a great
distance we saw no pastures, to that they must support their cattle on
artificial crops. At Furfeld we could procure no accommodation, it being
full of company; we were therefore, notwithstanding the lateness of the
hour, obliged to go on to Sinzheim. We parried the rain tolerably well
(the carriages are but partly covered) with our umbrellas; and escaped
narrowly a more serious disaster, having been nearly overturned by a
waggon, which broke one side of our carriage.
We found the inn small, but the people particularly obliging. I
perceived that they expected some personage of great importance, as the
landlady questioned our driver repeatedly whether _Der Cossack_ had
arrived at the last stage. It was not, however, until we had retired to
rest, that the expected guest arrived; and if importance is to be
measured by noise, his must have been great indeed.
Our road to Heidelberg lay for several miles along the banks of the
Necker, which are well-wooded, and adorned with several villages, and a
large convent. The gate by which we entered Heidelberg, is a remarkably
fine piece of Grecian architecture. The city is large and well built;
but there is little appearance of trade or activity amongst its
inhabitants. The _Castle_ is situated on a steep hill above the town,
and its terrace commands a vast prospect over a plain, enlivened by the
windings of the river, as well as by the spires of the city. This palace
was the residence of the electors palatine, and must have been a fine
piece of Gothic architecture. It was laid waste, together with the
_whole palatinate_, in consequence of those orders which will for ever
disgrace the memory of Lewis the Fourteenth.
It is, however, still striking; and although the scene is _silent and
desolate_, it is _unquestionably grand_.
In a building adjoining the castle, is the famed _Tun of Heidelberg_,
constructed by one of the electors at the suggestion of his buffoon,
whose statue is placed near this enormous tun, which can contain 326,000
bottles. We were told that _the jester_ (some will not allow him to be
called _the fool_) assisted his master in drinking eighteen bottles of
the best Rhenish wine daily. The table where they sat, near the tun, is
still shewn. The country about Heidelberg and Manheim is from its
fertility called the _Garden of Germany_; but I have seen in Germany
much finer districts. It is a well cultivated plain, and abounds with
vineyards: beyond Manheim is a greater extent of ground under potatoes,
than I have ever met with before out of Ireland. There is but little
wood, and the roads run between rows of walnut and cherry trees. Manheim
is considered as one of the handsomest cities in Germany, being built
on a regular plan. It consists of twelve streets, intersected at right
angles by eight others; but there is in this regularity a _sameness_
which soon tires the eye.
The Rhine passes close on one side of the city, and the Necker washing
the other side, soon after falls into the Rhine, over which there is a
bridge of boats. The palace is in a fine situation, and _next to
Versailles_, is the largest structure for the residence of a sovereign
that I have seen. This city became the residence of the electors
palatine, after the destruction of the Castle of Heidelberg, and the
palace was erected in consequence. On the accession of the reigning
family to Bavaria, Munich became their capital, and this palace was
neglected. Subsequent changes have transferred this country to the Grand
Duke of Baden, who continues to reside at Carlsruhe.
It would now require vast sums to restore this edifice; which will
probably be soon as desolate as the Castle of Heidelberg, with which,
however, it could never stand a comparison, either in point of
situation or architecture. There are some handsome walks near the
palace, which extend along the Rhine, where the fortifications have been
demolished. There are some spacious squares in the city; that before the
town-house is adorned by a handsome _bronze fountain_. The population of
the city has been estimated at 24,000; but it has probably rather
diminished of late. Several of the tradespeople exhibit the arms of
Baden over their shops, and boast of supplying their sovereign's family
with various articles; but trade has every appearance of being here at a
very low ebb. The road for some leagues beyond Manheim was by far the
worst we had yet passed in Germany; but then we had made a _detour_ in
visiting Manheim, which does not lie on the direct road to Frankfort.
The next place of any note was Darmstadt, the residence of the grand
duke of Hesse Darmstadt: it seems a place of recent origin, where much
has been attempted and but little completed. There are several spacious
streets marked out, and a few good houses dispersed over a considerable
extent of ground, which give it a melancholy appearance.
Its situation is not well chosen, as it is in a sandy plain, without any
river in the vicinity.
We visited the old castle or palace, situated in the centre of the town,
which seems now used as a barrack. The number of troops seemed very
considerable, and they are not inferior to the Wurtembergers in
appearance. Near the old palace are handsome gardens laid out in the
English taste, which were much frequented on Sunday. The present grand
duke inhabits a palace in the suburbs, which has little to boast of.
A few hours drive brought us to Frankfort. The country for the most part
is flat, and abounds with woods, but, except near Frankfort, has little
to interest the traveller. We found that great commercial city fully
answerable to our expectations. Every thing announces the opulence of
its inhabitants. The streets are spacious, and adorned with houses far
surpassing any that either Paris or London can boast of. Some of the
great merchants maybe literally said to inhabit palaces. There are a
vast number of inns; some of them are on a great scale, and worthy to be
ranked among the best in Europe. I observed in the streets here a greater
number of _handsome private carriages_ than I had seen in Paris.
Although the _situation_ of Frankfort is not remarkable, in a
picturesque point of view, when compared with some other cities, yet it
is extremely advantageous for its inhabitants, being placed in the
centre of the richest country in Germany, whilst the Mein and Rhine
afford every facility for commerce. The roads are also in excellent
order. That between Frankfort and Mayence is paved, and is perhaps the
most frequented in Germany. There are various well-known manufactures,
and the shops are supplied with the productions of all countries. I
first noticed here the custom of having small mirrors projecting into
the streets, that the inhabitants may see, by reflection, what passes in
them.
The advantages of Frankfort for commerce have attracted a vast number
of Jews, and reconcile them to many regulations, imposed by the
magistrates, which otherwise they would not submit to. Their numbers are
said to exceed 6,000 in a total population of nearly 50,000. The fame of
Frankfort is not, however, merely of a commercial nature. It can boast
of having produced many of the most eminent _literary_ characters of
Germany.
All religions are here tolerated; but, under its old constitution, the
members of government were Lutherans, and Calvinists were excluded from
any share in the management of affairs. The present magistrates are only
provisionally appointed since the late change in its situation. The
cathedral is a venerable Gothic edifice, as is also the town-house; but
Frankfort is more remarkable for a general air of magnificence than for
the exclusive elegance of any particular buildings. There are seven or
eight gates to the city, some of which are handsome, and adorned with
statues of many worthies, whose names I could not learn. The busts of
Alexander and Roxana were however too conspicuous to escape notice; but
their connexion with Frankfort I am not antiquary enough to trace.
Frankfort cannot be considered as a fortified place. Its bastions are
planted with shrubs, and form a pleasant walk for the citizens.
_Hamburg_ has recently afforded a melancholy example of the evil which
walls may bring upon a commercial city; and the people of Frankfort
cannot regret the use to which their bastions are applied. I was, by the
favour of a merchant, to whom I had an introduction, admitted as a
temporary member of the _Casino_, or _Public Institution_. It is one of
the best conducted establishments I have seen. There are not less than
110 _newspapers_, besides other periodical publications; and, after an
interval of two months, I was glad again to peruse an English newspaper.
The reading-room, like the council-chamber at Stutgard, is adorned by a
figure of Silence, and I think the hint seems well observed. There are,
however, several very spacious and elegantly decorated apartments, for
conversation, cards, billiards, &c. These rooms are frequented by ladies
in the evenings, and then bear some resemblance to a London rout. The
_concerts_ at Frankfort are remarkably good. There is only one theatre;
and, as the performance was in German, I only went once out of
curiosity. The number of villas around Frankfort are numerous and
handsome, and the villages are large, and have every appearance of
opulence. Here are many fine orchards, and the _cider of Afschaffenburg_
can be only distinguished from wine by a connoisseur.
At Hochst, six miles from Frankfort, stands the large edifice noticed by
Dr. Moore, as having been built by a great tobacconist of Frankfort, out
of spite to the magistrates of that city, with whom he had quarrelled;
and he endeavoured to induce merchants to settle here. His plan,
however, failed, and this great building is almost uninhabited. This
village is at present chiefly remarkable for a manufacture of porcelain
of excellent quality.
Great preparations were making at Frankfort to celebrate the anniversary
of the glorious battle of Leipsig; and I was present at the inspection
of about 6,000 men, preparatory to the great review on the eighteenth.
There were many ladies present, and, although the weather was far from
being warm, yet few of them wore bonnets. In general their hair was
rolled round their heads.
Not being able to delay any longer in Frankfort, I took the road to
_Mayence_, and passed through the large village of _Hochheim_, which
contains 300 families. It was formerly the property of the chapter of
Mayence, but its future destiny is at present undecided. From this place
is derived the English name of _Hock_, which is applied to all the wine
of the _Rhingau_. There are vast numbers of vineyards and fruit-trees
around the village; and, from a hill above it, is seen the junction of
the Mayn with the Rhine, in the midst of this rich country. The waters
of the Mayn are of a dark hue, but do not, however, succeed in
obscuring altogether the colour which the Rhine brings from Switzerland,
and which I had so much admired at Schaffhausen. From the bridge of
boats, which is 1,400 feet in length, and which forms the communication
between Mayence and Cassel, one sees the Rhine forced by mountains to
change its northerly direction, and, after forming some small islands it
runs for some distance to the eastward. The mountains, which change the
course of this vast river, form the _Rhingau_ so celebrated for its
wines. That of the village of _Rudesheim_ is particularly noted for
producing the best wine of the Rhingau, and consequently of Germany. The
French had expended vast sums on the fortifications of _Cassel_ and
_Mayence_, and rendered the latter one of the keys of Germany, as well
from its strength as from its situation. They had always a great depot
here, which considerably benefited the city; the loss of that advantage
is much regretted.
When seen from the bridge (which is longer than that of Westminster)
Mayence presents a striking appearance on account of its spires, and the
vessels that line its quay, which presents a scene of considerable
activity. On the customhouse were displayed the flags of Austria,
Prussia, and Bavaria; but to which of those powers the city is to be
subject is still undetermined. On the river are a great number of
corn-mills, necessary where there is so great a garrison. The barracks
are handsome, and on a large scale. The general appearance of the
interior of Mayence is bad. The streets are in general narrow, dirty,
and intricate. Near the castle are some good houses.
The cathedral is one of the largest buildings in _Germany_, It has
suffered considerably in the late wars, and is now covered with wood.
Its appearance is not, however, very striking, and it is surrounded with
mean houses. I observed that a statue, "_a l'Empereur_" is still
standing in front of one of the houses in this city. Its population is
said to be 26,000. The inhabitants, for a considerable distance round
Mayence, subsist principally by agriculture. They export their grain on
the Rhine to Switzerland. They have abundance of vegetables, and the
lower orders live a good deal on cabbage, which is here of a large size.
* * * * *