The _Perte du Rhone_, or the spot where the Rhone suddenly sinks into
the ground, forms one of the objects usually visited from Geneva, and I
accepted a proposal to join a party in making an excursion thither. We
were careful in providing a carriage, which was so constructed, as to
allow us a view on _both sides_, as some only afford a prospect of _half
the country_, the passengers all sitting on one side, and the cover
being immoveable.
We set out at an early hour, and arrived at Vanchy about noon, from
whence we proceeded on foot to the spot where the vast waters of the
Rhone, in approaching a ridge of rocks, with inconceivable rapidity,
_sink into the earth_. The cavern is covered with foam, from the
agitation of so great a body of water being forced into so small an
aperture; and the sight is at once magnificent and solemn. The
_emersion_ of the Rhone is not far distant from the place of its
ingulphation, but presents a very different spectacle, as the river
ascends so gradually as to be completely smooth, which in attributed to
the depth of the caverns from which it issues. It seems probable that
these caverns have some undiscovered outlet, as the Rhone, after its
rise from them, is but inconsiderable, compared with what it is before
its disappearance.
Not far distant is the Pont de Bellegarde, over the little river
Valserine, which runs through a deep dell into the Rhone. The scene is
well deserving of attention. In the vicinity of Geneva are several hop
gardens, which seem very flourishing; but whether it is that the
inhabitants do not understand the art of brewing as well as in England,
or that there is any difference in the plant, I do not know; but no one,
who has been accustomed to good malt liquor, could be persuaded to
relish theirs.
The elevation of Geneva (187 toises above the Mediterranean) together
with the proximity of the Alps, and of the mountains of Jura, cause
winters to be long, and often severe. The summers are often extremely
hot, but the air is refreshed by the gales from the mountains, which
sometimes occasion very sudden changes in the atmosphere.
The thermometer of _Réaumur_ has been known to rise 26 degrees above
freezing, but I have never myself observed it above 18 or 20 during my
stay.
It is said, that very severe cold has brought it to 14 degrees below
freezing, and then the lake, and even the rapid current of the Rhone,
have been frozen.
Often, during the summer months, the lake is ruffled by the _Bise_, or
regular north-east wind; but the east and west winds occasion the most
destructive tempests. The climate of Switzerland is in general much
colder than in the countries by which it is surrounded. Its numerous
lakes, mostly very elevated, add greatly to the freshness of the air,
and the frequent rains from the Alps bring with them the temperature of
those mountains. But, although the climate is so variable, being often
changed in a few hours, from the great heat which the reflection of the
sun occasions in the valleys, to the cold rains which proceed from the
surrounding mountains, yet these sudden transitions do not appear to
have an ill effect on the health of the inhabitants. On the contrary,
the celebrated physician _Haller_ attributes the salubrity of the air of
Switzerland to the currents from the Alps, which preserve it continually
pure, and prevent its stagnation in the valleys.
The soil of Switzerland is, in general, stony and unfertile, but the
peasants spare no pains to render it productive. I have had more than
once before occasion to express my astonishment at the sight of
mountains divided into terraces, and cultivated to their very summits. I
have been informed by a gentleman, who has devoted much of his attention
to agricultural pursuits, that the general return of grain in
Switzerland is about five times the quantity sown, and that Switzerland
does not produce much above a tenth part of the corn necessary for the
subsistence of its population, which he calculates at 130 to the square
mile, or nearly two millions; but if the parts which it is impossible
can ever be cultivated, were left out of the calculation, the average
population to the square mile would be of course greatly increased; as
the present scheme includes the whole superficies of the country.
The proportion which some other countries bear to Switzerland, in
respect to the population subsisting on each square mile, is as follows,
viz.
China, the most populous country
in the world, of the same extent 260
Holland, which has a greater population
than any country of its limited
extent 275