Having left Geneva so soon after my arrival there, I had not of course
sufficient time to speak sufficiently of a city so peculiarly
interesting on many accounts. The journal of a traveller is not however
the place to look for long statements of the revolutions, wars, and
sieges of the cities which he visits; but still there are very few
tourists who have omitted to swell their pages with details more
properly the province of the historian, and, from the unconnected manner
in which they are generally introduced, not calculated to give any very
accurate idea of the history of the place. I shall not therefore attempt
to mention the various revolutions which have at different times
disturbed the city of Geneva; and shall only remark, that it was
formerly annexed to the German empire, and that its bishops, like those
of Lausanne, having taken advantage of the precarious authority of some
of the emperors, succeeded in uniting to the spiritual jurisdiction most
of the temporal authority of the state, and lost both together at the
introduction of the reformation in 1585. The citizens, to defend
themselves from the powerful pretensions of the Dukes of Savoy,
concluded, in 1584, a perpetual alliance with the cantons of Zurich and
Berne (the most powerful of the reformed cantons), by which alliance
this republic became a part of the Swiss confederacy, and continued so
to be until forced to unite itself to France, by the revolutionary
government of that country. It has again recovered its independence; and
the general wish is that Geneva may be declared a canton of Switzerland
(this has, since I left Geneva, actually taken place, and the event was
celebrated with the utmost enthusiasm by its inhabitants). Their present
government is not absolutely arranged, and seems but little varied from
that democratic form which anciently prevailed (the merits of which
have given rise to much discussion), and by which all power is finally
vested in the general or sovereign council, composed of all the citizens
of Geneva who have attained their majority, there being a few particular
exemptions. All citizens are equally eligible to the public employments
of the state, of which, however, the emoluments are so scanty, as only
to make them objects of honourable ambition.
By the laws of Geneva, a father can never dispose of more than half his
estate, according to his inclination; the other half must be divided
equally amongst his children. Those citizens who do not discharge the
debts of their father after his decease, are excluded from holding any
public situations; as also, if they omit to pay debts which they have
themselves contracted. There are still subsisting many _sumptuary laws_,
which appear useful, to exclude the introduction of too great a degree
of luxury, which is generally so fatal to the liberty of a people.
There is a theatre at Geneva, which I have heard was first projected by
M. d'Alembert, but the magistrates endeavour to prevent as much as
possible the frequency of theatrical entertainments; and, during my stay
at Geneva (between three and four weeks), I think the theatre was open
but twice for plays, and once for a concert.
The town-house is a large and ancient building, and devoid of
regularity. It is chiefly worthy of mention, from the ascent to the
upper apartments, being by an inclined plane, sufficiently spacious to
admit a carriage to drive up to them. Here are the apartments of the
senate, the councils of government, officers of justice, &c. Here I left
my passports and received, in return, a permission to reside in the
city, which must be renewed every fortnight. The passport is returned
upon the final departure of its owner.
I now found it easy to provide myself with a lodging (as, without the
authority of the state, no citizen can receive strangers into his house)
on reasonable terms, for three weeks. My apartment commanded a handsome
prospect of the lake from one of the windows. I, however, occasionally
dined at the hotel where I had first lodged (the Balances d'Or). I here
found sometimes pleasant society at the Table d'Hote. The hour of dinner
was about a quarter past one o'clock, and the table was plentifully
supplied, much in the order I before mentioned, in speaking of the
French dinners. I observed that excellent vegetable, the potatoe, was
here in great estimation, at the tables both of the higher and inferior
classes; and, except in Italy, I understand its value is duly
appreciated in the principal parts of Europe. I now proceed, according
to my promise, to speak more of Geneva, having been for some time
domesticated there.
The city is regularly fortified; but, according to the modern system of
warfare, it would not probably make any efficient resistance; yet
although its fortifications may not be sufficient to secure it during a
siege, they are not entirely devoid of utility: they would prevent the
city's being suddenly occupied by an enemy, and thus afford time for the
conclusion of a regular capitulation. Situated as the city is, between
France and Sardinia, and divided from the rest of Switzerland, it must
be granted, that the government acts wisely in preserving its
fortifications. Indeed, their utility was fully exemplified during the
eventful period of last spring, when the allied troops, after having for
some days occupied the city, were suddenly called away, and the
inhabitants were menaced by a force of 3,000 Frenchmen, who demanded
admission. This was refused them; and happily, the return of the allied
forces in a few days, saved Geneva from the melancholy effects which
must have ensued from the irruption of the French, who were greatly
exasperated that the city did not at first oppose the entrance of the
Allies. The ramparts form the principal promenade of the Genevese; and
from some of them (particularly from the Place St. Antoine, which
commands the lake, and is well planted) the views are very striking over
a highly cultivated valley, enclosed by some of the most lofty mountains
in Europe. Detachments of the allied forces remained a very considerable
time at Geneva, and at one period the Republic had to defray a daily
expence of not less 40,000 francs.
But what seems to be most regretted by the Genevese, is the destruction
by those troops, of several avenues of trees, which had for many years
lined one of the roads near the city, and formed one of their favourite
walks. The Austrians, in their impatience to obtain fuel, could not be
persuaded to spare them, and the inhabitants now avoid a walk which they
once delighted in.
I have not, however, heard many complaints at the sums expended for the
maintenance of the allied troops, as they have relieved Geneva from the
yoke of France, under which their trade (which alone had raised their
city to such celebrity) was nearly annihilated.
I obtained some information on this subject, from a person of whom I
inquired my way to the hamlet of the Petit Sacconnex, near Geneva, where
is the best view of Mont Blanc. Seeing I was a stranger, he was very
civil; but he was delighted when he discovered of what country I was,
and spoke of England with enthusiasm, as it was to her perseverance that
his country, in common with most of Europe, was indebted for the late
glorious change in the state of their affairs. He informed me, that
before the union of Geneva to France, he had been in good business as a
watchmaker (the great occupation of the Genevese) but, like numberless
others, was thrown out of employment. Many emigrated, some worked as day
labourers, others were forced into the army, and he, being very old,
maintained himself with difficulty by setting up a small school.
I found my conductor an extremely well informed man, as indeed are most
of the tradespeople of Geneva. The higher circles are remarkable for
that freedom, blended with politeness, which places society on its most
natural basis, as I had frequent occasion to remark during my stay at
Geneva. I must not omit to mention the pleasure I experienced from the
_fête de navigation_ (to which I was invited by the kindness of a
gentleman, to whom I had been introduced) which is one of the most
splendid at Geneva; and the scene of the lake, covered with boats of
various sizes, filled with elegant females (and I have seen few places
that can boast of a greater proportion,) prevented my reflections on the
_more distant scene_ which its shores presented, and which, under
different circumstances, would not have passed unnoticed. After having
spent some time on the water, the company repaired to the Hall of
Navigation, near the village of Secheron, where a handsome entertainment
was provided. The evening concluded with a brilliant display of
fire-works, and the Lake was again enlivened by the boats carrying back
the company to the city. I observed amongst the company an English
Admiral, who attended this fête in his uniform. The Genevese lamented
that so handsome a dress should be disfigured by the _small hat_ he
wore, and it was indeed small compared with those of their officers. The
peasants here wear larger hats than any I saw in France, probably to
shade them from the sun; but in any climate, I do not think an English
labourer would feel at his ease with such a vast _edifice_ on his head.
The bonnets worn by the inhabitants of parts of Savoy and Vaud, are not
very dissimilar in shape from some I have seen in Wales; they are of
straw, and are commonly ornamented with black ribbon.
I shall here insert an epigram composed in 1602, by a Prince of Hesse,
who, at his departure, presented the city with 10,000 crowns.
Quisquis amat vitam, sobriam, castamque tueri,
Perpetuò esto illi casta Geneva domus:
Quisquis amat vitani hanc bene vivere, virere et illam,
Illi iterum fuerit casta Geneva domus.
Illic iuvenies, quidquid, conducit utrique:
Relligio hic sana est, aura, ager, atque lucus.
Amongst the various objects which are pointed out as deserving the
attention of a stranger, is the house in which the celebrated J.J.
Rousseau was born, in the year 1712. The circumstance is recorded by an
inscription over the door. His father was a watchmaker, and his house
was small and obscurely situated.
Rousseau was perhaps the most eloquent and fascinating of all the
sceptical writers of the last century; and probably the only one amongst
them who established a _system of his own_, if indeed his eccentricities
can be so called. His character exhibited a strange mixture of _pride_,
which made him perpetually anxious to be of public notoriety, and of an
_unsociable temper_, which often made him retire in disgust with the
world, and treat (without any rational cause, that has been assigned)
those who were most his friends, as if he considered them to be his
bitterest enemies. He was far more jealous of the reputation obtained by
his contemporaries, than delighted with the approbation he personally
received. Considered as a _philosopher_, he was paradoxical; as a
_moralist_, dangerous and licentious; as a _parent_, unnaturally
abandoning his offspring; as a _friend_, suspicious and ungrateful. As
_pride_ was the ruling passion of Rousseau, so was _vanity_ beyond
dispute the grand characteristic of _Voltaire_, (the proximity of Fernay
may excuse my here comparing him with Rousseau,) and this passion
induced him to pervert transcendent talents to the most pernicious and
fatal purposes.
The hostility of Voltaire to the _Christian dispensation_ has been
compared to the enmity rather of a rival than of a philosopher. He is
thought to have wished its overthrow, not so much because he entertained
any solid objections to its sublime theories, or had real doubts as to
the miracles by which it is attested; as because his _vanity_ led him to
think, that if he once could persuade men to the abolition of
Christianity, he might himself become the founder of a new system of
_moral indulgence_. The Abbé Raynal, in 1791; _already repented_ of the
philosophic principles, which he had so sedulously inculcated, and
expressed his conviction, that the consequence of the theories then so
finely fancied, would be a general pillage, for that their authors
wanted experience, to reduce their speculations to a practical system.
The Abbé was right in _this last_ expectation, and from the French
Revolution, so destructive in most respects, there has at least resulted
this advantage; it has furnished the most satisfactory comment upon the
_grand experiment_ of the philosophers, and proved most folly that it is
_religion alone_ that possesses authority to silence the clamours of
interest, to control the passions, and to fetter the ambition of
mankind. The same year (1778) is memorable for the deaths both of
Voltaire and Rousseau; the first is represented as exhibiting on his
_death bed_ the most melancholy spectacle of horror and remorse that can
be possibly conceived; the latter is thought to have committed _suicide_
at Ermenonville, where he found an asylum, after having been banished
successively from many states. This opinion is founded chiefly on the
authority of Madame de Staël; it is related, that he rose in the morning
in perfect health, and returned after his usual walk; that soon after,
he desired his wife to open the window, that he might, as he expressed
it, _contemplate nature for the last time_ and that being presently
taken ill, he refused to receive any assistance, and died in a few
hours.
Those who have seen both those celebrated characters (who long attracted
persons from all parts of Europe to this country) have remarked, that
_Voltaire_ at first sight was acknowledged to be a man of genius; but
that _Rousseau_ was only suspected of possessing superior abilities.
I have perhaps said too much on this subject, into which I have been led
insensibly, by reflecting on what I had read of these philosophers, and
shall therefore conclude with inserting the remark of a Savoyard
peasant, who, according to M. Lantier, being asked his opinion of them,
answered, "_I think that Voltaire has done a great deal of mischief in
the age in which he lived; and that Rousseau will not do less to
posterity_."
The college of Geneva and its library are generally pointed out to
strangers as worthy of a visit; for the Genevese are no less celebrated
for their proficiency in literature, than for their commercial industry.
The college consists of nine classes, and owes its foundation to the
celebrated Calvin, who was born at Nyon, where his father was a cooper.
He first arrived at Geneva in 1536, was exiled in 1538, and recalled
finally in 1541; he became the legislator as well as the religious
reformer of the state. He is still the great hero of the Genevese, who
believe him to be innocent of the _death of Michael Servet_, which has
in the general opinion cast such disgrace on his memory. He did not
affect to deny the _great perversity of his temper_, which is indeed
exhibited by many of his actions, so forcibly as not to admit of
concealment. His writings, in 44 volumes, containing 2023 sermons, and
his portrait, are preserved in the college, library, which contains
about 50,000 volumes, besides 200 manuscripts, some of which are of
great value. This library was originally founded by Bonnival, prior of
St. Victor, and is open from one till three o'clock every Tuesday. Two
secretaries are then engaged, under the inspection of the librarian, in
taking lists of the books which are borrowed or returned. The hydraulic
machine on the Rhone, which supplies the city with water, although it is
less complicated than that at Marli, is not less ingenious, and is
certainly of greater utility. The wheel is twenty-four feet in diameter,
and raises about 500 pints a minute at all seasons (being preserved
from the effects of frost) to two reservoirs, one seventy, the other 126
feet above the level of the river. The first supplies the fountains and
houses in the lower part of the town, and the second those in the more
elevated situations. The water of the Rhone, although transparently
clear, is hard and unpleasant to drink.
In enumerating the public establishments of Geneva, I must not omit to
mention the Society for the Advancement of the Arts, which was
originally projected by M. Faizan, an eminent watch-maker; its first
meetings were held at M. de Saussure's house. This society is now so
considerable as to be under the direction of government, and its
meetings are held in the town-hall, where subjects connected with
agriculture and the useful arts are discussed, and prizes distributed,
as well to the school of drawing (which is on a most respectable
footing) as to all, who distinguish themselves, either by inventions of
utility, or by noble or _humane_ actions.
Another excellent establishment here, is the Chambre des Blés, or
magazine of corn; this is a large and handsome building, and always
contains an ample supply of good wheat. The direction of this
establishment is immediately in the government, and its managers are
selected from the different councils. The benefits arising from abundant
seasons, cover the expences occasioned by years of scarcity. The bakers
being obliged to buy here whatever quantity of corn they may require,
and at an uniform price it follows that the price of bread always
continues the same, and that price is fixed by the grand council. The
managers of this store, to prevent the bakers from making bread of an
inferior quality, have established a shop in each quarter of the city;
and the bakers, to ensure a ready sale, are obliged to make their bread
of equal quality with that which could be procured at the shops of the
managers of this establishment. The churches of Geneva are not
distinguished by any architectural beauties, if we except the portico of
the _cathedral_, which is constructed of rough marble, said to be
copied after that of the Rotunda at Rome; it is considered equal to that
of St. Genevieve at Paris, but I cannot subscribe to that opinion.
The Calvinistic tenets (which are those of the state) are most generally
adopted at Geneva; but the Lutherans, the Germans of the Confession of
Augsburg, and the Roman Catholics, have each a church. The ministers are
appointed by the Government, and care is taken that the Roman Catholic
minister be subject to a Swiss Bishoprick. In the Calvinistic churches,
the hours of divine service are nine in the morning and two in the
afternoon. The service consists in the reading the commandments, a few
prayers, a chapter in the Bible, and the sermon; and concludes with a
psalm or hymn, accompanied by the organ; the whole service generally
occupies an hour. The Sunday is principally distinguished by the sermon,
the rest of the week being allotted for reading the Scriptures.--A
stranger is much surprised at seeing _many persons wear their hats
during the sermon_, a custom which indicates a want of respect to the
place that cannot be excused, however inferior the compositions of a
preacher may be to the rest of the service. There is one thing to be
noticed here as worthy of imitation: no burials are allowed within the
city. At Paris also, most of the burial places near the churches have
been removed to the catacombs, a change which has tended greatly to
purify the air of the city. There is a box at each door of the churches
here, and as the congregation retire after divine service, a person is
stationed near it, to desire them to _remember the poor_. These
collections must be liberal, as few places are so free from beggars as
Geneva.
* * * * *