CHAPTER V

BELFORT TO NANCY

Our first direct news of Nancy was given us by an army-surgeon whom we

met in Dijon. He had just been invalided home suffering from septic

poisoning as the result of an operation which he had performed in one of

its many hospitals. In these days very little information was getting

through from the Lorraine front. The general situation was so obscure

that at one time some of the map-drawers of the English newspapers,

probably owing to a too naïf confidence in the accuracy of the

statements published by the Wolff bureau, actually placed the line

showing the position of the German front on the west side of Nancy, as

though it had been occupied by the enemy. Fortunately they were

mistaken. Though the capital of Lorraine had been lightly bombarded on

the night of September 9, two days before the médecin-major left it, it

was then, as it has since remained, in spite of the enemy’s persistent

efforts to reach it, _Nancy l’Inviolée_. But though the Germans, after

three weeks of incessant fighting, during which they suffered very heavy

losses, had been driven back, they were still only a few miles away, and

when we got back to Belfort from Alsace, we had already decided that, if

it could be managed, Lorraine was the place for us to go to.

Even if we could have got leave to stay in Belfort the outlook there,

from our point of view, was not promising. The field defences between it

and the frontier, without taking into account the troops stationed at

Montreux Vieux and in other parts of Alsace, were enough to convince us

that there was little chance of the enemy getting anywhere near it. The

lessons of Liége and Namur had not been thrown away. It was pathetic now

to remember how when we were in Belgium everyone had gone about

repeating the parrot cry, “Namur est imprenable” (just as they had said

“Les forts de Liége tiennent, et ils tiendront toujours”), when, except

inside the girdle of the forts, it was not protected by a single

earthwork of any value. The confidence of the French in Belfort was

better founded. The commanders of the garrison had learnt very early in

the war that forts, to be of any use in modern warfare, must themselves

be flanked, as golf-architects guard their greens, with an interminable

network of bunkers. Acting on that principle they had constructed a

position of such formidable strength that not even the German generals,

who had shown such a complete disregard of losses in their advance after

Charleroi, would be likely to face the huge waste of life which a

frontal attack on the Vosges fortress would have entailed.

A year has passed since then, and instead of getting nearer to it they

are miles further back than the place where Lieutenant Mayer met his

death. Pfetterhausen and Montreux Vieux and Dannemarie and a good slice

of Alsace are still in the hands of the French, and the siege of Belfort

(unless the enemy try the desperate expedient of a flanking movement

through Switzerland) is more unlikely than ever. So confident are the

authorities of their security that most of the civil inhabitants who had

been evacuated at the time of our first visit have now been allowed to

return, and the life of the town is becoming almost normal again. That

is a healthy sign. It is one of the numerous proofs that the apparent

deadlock at the front is really a signal victory for the Allies. For it

means that for all their carefully prepared organization and their calm

disregard of the conventions of war by which the other nations consider

themselves bound, the original plans of the enemy have broken down. The

cupolas of the forts of Belfort, which were to have been so easily

crushed, are still intact; their guns have not yet fired a shot, except

at aeroplanes. As in 1870, no German soldier has set foot within its

walls. Its famous lion is still a lion _couchant_.

Just before starting on our way back to Dijon we paid a visit to M.

Goublet, the Civil Governor and Préfet of the Territoire de Belfort (who

has rejoined his old service, the Navy, and is now in command of a small

cruiser), another warm friend and admirer of England and _The Times_.

During the war M. Goublet and all his fellow-préfets of the border

provinces have been most valuable servants of the State. No men in

France, except perhaps the ministers and the great chiefs of the army,

have had heavier responsibilities on their shoulders or more anxious

duties to perform, and no account of the way in which France has faced

the invader can be anything like complete which does not give some idea

of their share in the common work.

We have nothing in England that corresponds to the office of the French

prefect, who, as the direct representative of the Government in his

Department, plays a very important part in the civil administration of

the country. The eighty-six Departments, each governed by its Prefect,

are divided into sub-districts under the sous-préfets, and the

sub-districts into Communes or Mayoralties. The Mayor, as with us, is a

municipal officer, and looks after only what concerns his own commune,

which is called, in the case of the big towns, an Arrondissement. In his

Department the Prefect is supreme. Every civilian official in it—the

Sous-Préfets, the Mayors and their subordinates, and all the minor

officers of the State, such as the gendarmerie and the special police

commissaires whom he controls himself—is under his orders. He is saluted

not only by all these civilian officials and employés, but by the

officers and soldiers of the army. He ranks with the Generals commanding

army-corps, and in time of peace even takes precedence of them. When a

new General comes into a Department he calls on the Prefect, and by him

is introduced to the civil authorities, and in the same way all the

official calls on New Year’s Day are paid first to the Préfecture. Even

in time of war, because the State is greater than its army, it is only

in strictly military matters that the Generals in his Department are his

superiors. Thus a proclamation by a General to the people can only be

issued through the Prefect and over his signature, and he has the power,

subject of course to the General’s right of appeal to the Généralissime

and the Minister of War, to refuse to sanction any decree affecting the

civil population which the military authority might wish to enforce.

There has been one striking instance of the exercise of this power

during the present war. By an agreement between the Prefect and the

Military Governor the population of an important town near the frontier

were evacuated in the early days when it appeared very probable that it

would be besieged by the Germans. After a time, as nothing happened and

all fear of an investment seemed to be at an end, the inhabitants began

gradually to come back, and no notice was taken of their return till

suddenly the Military Governor issued a second proclamation, without

consulting the Prefect, ordering them once more to leave the town. To

this the Prefect objected, on the ground that his sanction had not been

asked. He announced that they might stay, and the action which he had

taken was upheld by the Minister of the Interior.

The Prefect, therefore, acts either as the channel, or (if he thinks it

necessary), as the barrier between the military authorities and the

people of his Department, and is therefore a standing safeguard against

the militarism, which, according to some English critics, is bound to

arise in a country which has a “conscript” army. The mere fact of the

existence of the office, with its extraordinary powers, is a sufficient

guarantee that in France the militarism of which these people make a

bugbear can never make any real headway.

Amongst his other duties the Prefect is responsible for the care of the

main roads and State monuments (such as cathedrals) in his Department;

for the holding of _Conseils de Révision_ (the periodical assemblies of

the young men of the nation, at which they are finally examined, in

classes dependent on the year of their birth, to see if they are

physically and mentally fit for service in the army); for the

provisioning and lighting of the towns and villages in his district; and

for the control of the Press, or what is commonly termed the censorship,

which, in time of war, he exercises jointly with the military

authorities. In the invaded districts the importance of each of these

several duties is obvious, and no praise can be too high for the way in

which they have been carried out, all along the battle-line from Belfort

to Briey, by M. Goublet (Territoire de Belfort), M. Linarès (Vosges), M.

Léon Mirman (Meurthe et Moselle), M. Aubert (Bar le Duc) and the

sous-préfets of Lunéville, Toul, and Briey, M. Minier, M. Mage, and M.

Magre. To the sorely tried people under their charge these men have set

a fine example of unity, hard work, self-sacrifice, confidence, and

courage, with a leaven of the less ornamental virtue of common-sense.

They have unflinchingly carried out the often risky work of visiting, as

soon as the enemy was driven back from one position after another, the

burnt and ruined villages which he left behind him. They have been the

stand-by of the brave mayors who have stuck to their posts in the hour

of danger, they have cheered the wounded in the hospitals, they have

cared for the homeless and destitute refugees, and they have stimulated

and encouraged the whole population by giving them a true and lofty

ideal of what the war means for France and the world, and of the way in

which Frenchmen and French women and children should face its perils and

its inevitable sufferings and distress. And—_si parva licet componere

magnis_—those of them whom we have been fortunate enough to know have

been exceedingly kind and helpful to two grateful journalists from

London.

[Illustration:

Woelflin, Nancy, phot.

M. LEON MIRMAN, PREFECT OF MEURTHE ET MOSELLE.

]

At this particular moment, however, it was the military, rather than the

civil authorities, who were able to help us on our way. By the _service

de renseignements_, or military intelligence department, at Belfort, we

were given a special pass to go to Nancy by way of Dijon and Chalindrey

(the direct route by Epinal being impossible), and when we got back to

Dijon General Brissaud himself _viséd_ our passports for the same

destination.

Armed with these double credentials we started from Dijon on what in

ordinary times is a journey of six hours, instead of which it took us

from three o’clock in the afternoon till half-past eight next morning.

The first big check was at Chalindrey, close to Langres, where we had a

three hours’ wait during which we saw two interesting little sidelights

on the war. In those days all station-restaurants had been taken over

for the use of the army, and as we were not allowed to stay on the

platform or to sit in the train, we thought at first that we should have

to kick our heels till midnight in the station yard. It was a dark and

chilly prospect. However, by the help of a friendly private and

persistent knocking at a back door, we did at last force our way into

the refreshment room, and on the strength of being English were allowed

to order some supper. While we were eating it a taciturn sergeant

demanded our papers and carried them off into the outer darkness. Then

there was a long pause. We waited and waited, each moment getting more

and more afraid that they were not going to get us through after all,

when the door opened and out of the _ewigkeit_, nearly two hundred miles

from the nearest English troops, two Red Cross Tommies, an Australian

and a Lanarkshire miner, walked into the room. They were under the

escort, not to say the arrest, of the Station Commandant, who wanted to

confront them with us to see if the story they told was true. It was, as

a matter of fact, rather lame. They said that after the Battle of the

Marne they had lost the rest of their detachment somewhere near

Compiègne, and being tired of hospital work were trying to reach the

front, in the hope of being allowed to do some fighting. Whether they

were deserters or not they certainly had their full share of Scotch and

Australian mother-wit, or they could never have got so far without being

arrested. Three months later, by some miracle, for they spoke no French

and had only their ordinary soldiers’ passes, they turned up in Nancy,

still on their own, and were taken to Toul, this time, I believe, under

close arrest. As they were the unconscious means of doing us a good

turn, I rather hope that they were not impostors, and that they were not

too hardly dealt with. Hearing me talking to them, a French officer,

Commandant Chesnot of the 360th Regiment of the Reserve, introduced

himself as an ardent admirer of England, and invited us to make the rest

of the journey in the reserved carriage which he shared with another

officer. They were old schoolfellows belonging to the same regiment, who

had been knocked over by the same shell three weeks before at

Réméréville, and were now returning to duty, still limping from the

effect of their wounds. Like every wounded French officer and soldier

whom we met, their one idea was to get out of the surgeon’s hands and

back again to the front as soon as possible. It was lucky for us that

they were so keen.

At Toul, where we had to wait for another three hours, we sat with them

in the waiting-room reserved for soldiers, instead of being herded with

the civilian crowd next door, and from Champigneul, beyond which no

passenger trains had been running for some time, we travelled as their

friends in one of the familiar trucks built to accommodate forty men or

eight horses, sitting on bundles of sacking filled with the disinfected

uniforms of dead soldiers. Since the service had been suspended at the

beginning of the war, we were, I believe, the first civilians who made

their entry into Nancy by train.

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