The time when a sportsman could pitch his tent most anywhere and expect

the wild animal life of forest and plain to come to him as they came

to Adam when he first named them, has long since vanished. To hunt

with success one must be thoroughly versed in woodcraft, be possessed

of a good knowledge of the habits of game and the localities where

they are to be found at different seasons of the year, have a quick

eye to pick out a desirable head, and must be a reasonably fair judge

of distance, to gauge the proper elevation of a rifle. The happy

combination of these qualities make the skilled hunter; marksmanship,

provided it be fair, is the least important of all his qualifications.

There are a great many men who are good shots at a stationary target

who are bad shots at game; there are men who are good shots at game,

who are by no means experts in shooting at a mark. This statement

may seem paradoxical but readily admits of explanation. The marksman

has his range given him, he takes his time, and is not betrayed into

sudden action. Change these conditions and he is out of his element.

If his eye is not trained to judge distance in timber or on the plain,

he can easily misgauge it, and shooting at a moving object he cannot

take his time; the absence of any spot on the animal near the point

he is aiming at is another disadvantage to the man of the target. The

practiced hunter knows his distance; his keen eye readily distinguishes

his quarry, although it may blend with the landscape, so that the

unpracticed eye might easily overlook it; he is accustomed to take a

quick sight and shoot, making proper allowances for the moving object;

if a rapid advance is possible and necessary to cut off the game before

it can pass a given point for which it is heading, the hunter chooses

his course, as if by intuition, and often has a chance to get several

more shots where another would fail of his opportunity. The skill of

a hunter generally brings him within such proximity of game as to

relieve him of the necessity of making an extra difficult shot. It is

surprising how seldom the huntsman discharges his rifle compared to one

who practices at a target. The man who is fond of target practice will

probably use up as many rounds of ammunition in one afternoon shooting

at a mark as the average huntsman will consume in an entire year.

A sportsman who is a fair shot, and who goes to a locality where game

is fairly plentiful, has every reason in the world to expect success,

provided he is accompanied by a real hunter, such an one as I have

above described. It is very important to employ a competent guide if

one expects a successful hunt. When I speak of a competent guide I

mean a man who is a good hunter and also capable of managing a hunting

outfit.

Guides may be divided into three classes:

(1) Ordinary frauds who are watching an opportunity to “work” some

“dude,” by which name sportsmen are sometimes designated in the slang

of the country.

(2) Backwoodsmen who are good hunters and tireless and will supply a

sportsman with the best they know how to provide, but being ignorant of

the ordinary comforts of civilized life, treat their sportsmen with the

same cruel neglect to which they have accustomed themselves.

(3) The man who makes a regular business of acting as a guide, who is a

good hunter and who also knows how to provide a first-class outfit.

Game has greatly decreased before the advance of civilization and

the wanton slaughter which took no thought of the future; the wild

life which survives owes its preservation to the almost inaccessible

character of the country in which it has taken refuge, and to its own

cunning, which of necessity has become very acute.

To know the habitat of game and outwit its wariness requires the skill

of the practiced hunter.

We have heard a great deal about roughing it. That phrase as formerly

understood must be greatly qualified if the modern sportsman patronizes

an up-to-date outfit.

Going to a wild and rather inaccessible country has about it a certain

charm of novelty, and part of that charm grows out of the idea of

roughing it. Some people have a tendency to greatly exaggerate the

ordeals through which they pass in order that they may enhance

the interest of their experience. This goes with the weakness for

overstating the distance and increasing the apparent difficulty of

the shots which they make in securing their trophies, in which error

they are too frequently sustained by the somewhat elastic conscience

of the guide. This is an age of progress, and that phrase applies to

methods of enjoying sport quite as well as it does to anything else.

Having good sport with comfort in camp life is simply a question of

dollars and cents. The average person does not understand the present

conditions of sporting life in a wild country.

It must be borne in mind that in traveling in rough sections of the

West, where big game still abounds, although in much smaller numbers

than formerly, everything has to be carried on pack horses. What you

are to take is limited simply by the supply of pack horses you are to

engage. In an up-to-date outfit the open camp-fire, such a picturesque

feature in an illustration, has been supplanted by a plain sheet-iron

stove which is placed in the tent, with a few feet of pipe attached

to carry off the smoke. If one wants the open fire it of course can

be easily supplied, and at first a good many sportsmen desire it on

account of the romance and novelty of the experience, but the same

pampered tastes, which have forced man from a savage life to adopt the

comforts which civilization supplies, will invariably lead to the open

camp-fire being abandoned for the commonplace sheet-iron stove--very

unromantic but thoroughly practical and useful. The open camp-fire,

with the smoke blowing in your eyes from every direction, which gives

the sensation of being scorched on one side and frozen on the other,

does not appeal to the modern sportsman who disassociates sport from

martyrdom.

Folding tables and chairs can be “packed” quite easily, and it is much

pleasanter to sit in a chair and eat off of a table than to sit on a

log trying to make a table of your knees, and occasionally converting

your lap into a plate for your spilled victuals. A portable rubber

bathtub, if one objects to jumping into cold water, satisfies the

desire for cleanliness. With a fire in the stove one can take a bath as

easily and comfortably in camp as at home. For thorough cleansing it

is best for one to take a bath in a tent in warm water, but I strongly

recommend to those who can stand it a plunge in cold water or being

soused with a bucket or two every morning before dressing for the day.

This stimulates the body and gets the system in fine condition.

For those who find it uncomfortable to sleep on the hard surface of

the ground I would recommend a pneumatic mattress. An ample supply of

canned stuff insures against the chance of bad cooking, because it

requires little or no skill to prepare canned provisions, if the other

food in camp is not particularly appetizing.

This article is not intended for the experienced hunter who has had

plenty of experience of Western hunting; nor is it intended for the man

who has his heart set upon roughing it in the sense that he desires to

see how much he can go through and survive. A great deal of the advice

given to people has been in the opposite direction, namely, to cut out

as much as possible from their hunting outfit. I claim that the average

person who desires sport with as little hardship as possible, except

what is unavoidable, should be very careful about reducing his outfit

too much. Most sportsmen are accustomed to the ordinary comforts and

conveniences of life. It is perfect folly for such people to attempt

in a short time to harden themselves to the frontier life so they may

endure its hardships with the same indifference as the hunter or

trapper who lives that way all the time. I have run across sportsmen

who have had their hunting trips spoiled by attempting to rough it

too much. If you are accustomed to living well and in comfort, it

would be wise to recognize the fact that you are a “tenderfoot” and

act accordingly. For the average sportsman the object of a hunting

trip in the West is to obtain diversion and acquire health. All the

roughing it one requires is the vigorous exercise, the fresh air, with

an occasional dip in ice cold water, which is conducive to health; the

rest of the hardship it is well to leave out as far as possible.

[Illustration: VIEW FROM MT. LEIDY.]

My experience has led me to add to a hunting outfit, the oftener I

go out, rather than depleting it. The first time I really saw an

up-to-date outfit was in 1902, when I engaged as my guide Edward

Sheffield, of Idaho. I joked him about all the things he was taking

along and called him a “tenderfoot.” He replied that “he had had

all the roughing it he wanted in his time, and those who really knew

what it was generally preferred a camp as comfortable as possible.” I

experienced during that trip and a subsequent one I took next fall such

comfort, combined with good sport, as I never had before.

I would advise taking an emergency medical case supplied with all the

ordinary remedies. I have known the time when such a thing has proved

extremely useful, and I have also known of sportsmen who have had their

outing ruined through lack of some simple remedy.

AN ELK HUNT IN WYOMING

When I wrote to my old guide Edward Sheffield, I was somewhat

apprehensive about the outlook for sport, because I had heard that the

best part of the Jackson Hole Country had been included in the reserve

set apart by the State of Wyoming, where sport with big game had been

entirely interdicted.

I was advised, however, that this was not the fact, and pinning my

faith to the good judgment of the guide, I made arrangements for a fall

hunt. Before reaching the terminal of the railroad journey I chanced

to meet some sportsmen who discussed the sport and commented on the

conditions existing in Jackson’s Hole. The criticisms were by no means

favorable, and various instances were cited of parties who had been

disappointed in their expectations. My subsequent experience only

served to convince me how dependent a sportsman has become upon the

services of a good guide.

The trip from St. Anthony to Jackson was without incident worth

relating, except at the start. The pack horses, which, during their

stay in town, had fared handsomely on oats and hay and been well

sheltered, did not look forward to a trip back into the bleak and

sterile mountains with the same pleasure that I did; their refractory

souls yearned for the comfortable quarters they were just leaving with

the same tenacity that the children of Israel in the wilderness “longed

for the fleshpots of Egypt,” but here the comparison ends, for they had

not a guide who was meek and gentle like Moses.

About a mile from St. Anthony the whole bunch turned off on a side road

and went back to their former quarters. After some delay they were

finally got in line again, and with the aid of a couple of Mormons,

who, for a consideration, agreed to help them for several miles, we got

the pack train properly started, and after that had no further trouble

with them.

[Illustration: GUIDE EDWARD SHEFFIELD AND TWO ELK HEADS.]

The journey was a fairly long one, but it became more interesting as

we drew away from civilization and got closer to the place where we

intended to make permanent camp. After the first day we passed the wide

monotonous stretch of sage brush flats which lies between St. Anthony

and Victor; after that the landscape grew more mountainous and wooded.

The country became very picturesque as we proceeded; every mountain

presented a view which was a panorama; every opening in the timber

seemed a natural frame for an entrancing picture; the atmosphere so

clear and bracing gave fine definition to objects in view; the winding

river rushed fretting and foaming between the rocks in the valley

below; large clumps of spruces clustered upon the mountain sides, and

the rough crags were powdered with snow and sometimes glistening with

rills which coursed down their rugged surfaces. After traveling along

the Gros Ventre River for a considerable distance we at last came in

view of Mt. Leidy, superbly situated between two rows of mountains

on either side of a pleasant valley, at the head of which that peak

stands. The ground was covered with a few inches of snow--enough to

make good hunting. We made an early camp and had plenty of time to get

everything arranged before it became dark. The location was ideal;

plenty of timber nearby; a fine stream of clear, cold water, and good

grazing for the horses. It was quite important to have a good range

for the stock, because there were eleven pack horses and three riding

horses--fourteen in all. To take care of these required the services of

a horse wrangler. I had three men, my regular guide, Edward Sheffield;

Charles Herdick, a Wyoming guide, and Marcus Imo, who cooked and

turned his hand to anything else that had to be attended to.

The day being young when we arrived, I employed it in making a short

hunting scout. Charles Herdick went with me, and I soon discovered how

much my wind had deteriorated since I had last been out, for in the

meantime I had lived a life of comparative ease. The general elevation

in this section ranges from 7,000 to 10,000 feet, and it takes a few

days to accustom your lungs to the rarified atmosphere. When one is

not taking any vigorous exercise the climate feels exhilarating and

inspires one with the belief that he is able to perform any kind of

feat; a few minutes of real strenuous exercise and this delusion is

destroyed. I soon discovered that Herdick was a good hand at mountain

climbing, being wonderfully supple and possessed of the best pair of

lungs of anyone I ever knew.

We finally caught sight of a small bunch of elk at a considerable

distance. As they were moving over a crest of a hill it became

necessary to travel with speed to get near enough for a shot, if by

chance there should be a good head in the bunch. The elk had not seen

us, but were moving and might get out of range. Completely exhausted

I finally gained the summit of a hill overlooking the herd, which had

halted. An old bull stood in the quaking aspens, not over sixty yards

away. A glance at the head, and I saw that I had had my pains for

nothing. I watched the animals for a few moments, and they seemed to me

like old acquaintances, for it had been three years since I last hunted

this kind of game. I do not believe they were as pleased to see me as

I was to see them. They soon started to run directly from us in the

direction of camp, which was quite near. My guide, Edward Sheffield,

told me afterward that they came very near, and he was afraid they

would run through camp. He gravely warned me against the danger of

driving a large bunch of “Uncle Sam’s cattle” in that direction.

It was a pleasure after this little excitement to drop into a

comfortable camp and find everything nicely arranged and a good meal

provided. My quarters were supplied with every convenience that could

be expected by one who travels with a pack outfit. It may, perhaps,

interest those who have had no practical experience in Western hunting

to know what can be furnished. We had folding chairs, a folding table,

two tents, and in each a portable sheet-iron stove with a couple of

lengths of pipe to take off the smoke. I had a pneumatic mattress

to save my tired flesh from the hard ground, and whatever else was

required which horses could pack in. When I was tired of hunting I

could rest a day or so and read novels in a comfortable tent, no

matter how cold the weather. This does not seem like roughing it. The

frontiersman of former days would have thought such comfort with a

hunting outfit impossible. Modern progress, however, has caused most of

the inconveniences of camp life to disappear as if by magic. Would that

its magic influence could restock the wilderness with the great herds

of wild animals that have vanished.

[Illustration: VALLEY OF GROS VENTRE.]

The following day I went out with the guide to try my luck. We had

not traveled more than two miles before discovering a small herd of

elk. We circled around them sufficiently to size them up, but could

find no heads worth picking out. Our course was then changed, and we

hunted toward a high mountain north of Mt. Leidy. From this point we

obtained a fine view of the surrounding country, which I carefully

swept with my Seitz glasses in quest of game. Far off on a distant

ridge we finally saw some elk slowly moving out of the timber into

the open. Their brown shapes showed very distinctly against the

snow-covered hills, but, although there was a considerable number in

view, no good antlers were visible. My strong glasses proved of very

great service to me. With them I could ascertain plainly what otherwise

I would have had to guess at, and they saved me many a long excursion

over rough country to determine the value of a set of antlers. My guide

was quite as anxious as myself that I should not have any trophies

unworthy of a sportsman’s ambition. The law allows one only two heads,

and it is necessary to take great pains to avoid making mistakes. I

made up my mind that I would go back empty-handed rather than pack out

antlers which would reflect discredit upon my skill. The guide was

particularly anxious that I should obtain specimens which would do

no injury to his reputation. I think I must have passed unfavorable

judgment upon twenty-five or thirty heads--for which the guide was

mainly responsible--before I finally secured my trophies. Any number of

bulls presented themselves, some of them quite easy marks, only to be

snubbed and turned down. Paris, in passing judgment upon the goddesses

to determine which was the most beautiful, could not have been more

critical or discriminating than the guide. I doubt if the unsuccessful

rivals of the bulls I finally chose as worthy specimens were seriously

disappointed.

To illustrate the ease with which I could have secured my legal

allowance of two bulls, to say nothing of cows, I will cite a few

instances of the opportunities I had. On one occasion I was going

through the timber where I heard a number of elk. The guide called my

attention to a bull lying on the ground not sixty yards away, partly

concealed by the spruce brush. He was facing directly toward us, his

front feet folded under his body and his nose close to the ground. We

stood quite still and surveyed him carefully, sizing up the head, which

had twelve points, but not large nor heavy at the base. The glasses

were brought into service to make a more critical examination. A couple

of minutes we stood discussing him, when finally he gave a brief snort,

which sounded like an expression of disgust at our impertinence, and

then jumped up and loped out of sight.

Shortly afterward we managed to approach close to a very large herd

of elk, mostly hidden in the timber. From our concealment we could

see a number of the animals not over thirty or forty yards away.

About 150 yards off were a couple of young bulls exercising their

skill by fencing with their antlers, evidently in sport. We could

hear the frequent clash of the horns and often got a good view of the

contestants. We waited in this spot over an hour, until despairing

of seeing anything worth shooting at before it grew too dark, we

suddenly rose up in plain view. The peaceful scene was soon converted

into one of great confusion. For a moment the elk stared at us with

their beautiful large brown eyes in astonishment, then a general panic

communicated itself to the herd, and every animal in sight began moving

off. Each clump of vegetation that could conceal a form seemed suddenly

animated by a creature breaking from its hiding place, fleeing for

safety; the cows and calves gave vent to their peculiar bleat of alarm,

while the bulls snorted and rattled their antlers against the trees in

their haste. For some hundred yards in the timber, and well up on the

mountain side, the scene became particularly animated. I hurried to an

opening in the timber, where I could get a good view of the retreating

herd, which had drawn together into quite a solid moving mass. The

number of elk greatly exceeded my expectations. Nine-tenths of the herd

had been as carefully concealed from us as we had been from them.

There must have been at a conservative estimate not less than 400 in

the herd, and possibly 500. A sportsman could only admire this striking

and beautiful spectacle because there was no head worth securing. A

tooth hunter or a butcher, with a high-power repeating rifle, could

have repeated one of those scenes which sickens every lover of sport.

At another time I came upon a band of elk quite as numerous, and,

although there were a couple of good heads in view, yet the number of

cow elk was so great that it was practically impossible to get a good

shot. The entire mass fled straight up the side of a steep mountain

covered with quaking aspen and spruce. For some time we could see them

crowding one another in dense masses in their ascent, but the only shot

attempted was with the camera, and without success.

One more instance, which will not only aid in proving the ease of

securing an indifferent specimen, but goes to show that when game is

too plentiful it is an actual handicap to the sportsman. I saw a fine

head across a gulch at a considerable distance. I fired and missed it

and the animal escaped beyond range. I crossed the gulch to examine the

spot where the bull had stood and followed his tracks to see if he had

been wounded, and if so, how badly. Although the ground was covered

with two feet of snow, yet I could discover no signs of blood. While

discussing the matter with the guide we became conscious that we were

not unperceived, for a great number of elk began to move among the

trees, having evidently “spotted” us. We made at once for concealment

and ran as fast as we could through the deep snow to an open place

toward which the herd was heading.

Carefully hidden from view we saw a great brown mass thunder past,

and before it had disappeared from sight I caught a glimpse of the

precious set of antlers belonging to the bull I shot at carried in

triumph out of sight. They appeared but for a moment in the narrow

opening, in which the intended victim was well protected by cows,

which formed a perfect wall of flesh which no bullet could pierce and

speed on to its mark. We made another run under concealment in the

hope of being able to come upon the herd again in case it should halt,

which it did. In an open space on the further side of the mountain

we confronted the elk at close quarters. The rapid traveling in the

deep snow over rough country left me very much exhausted. The first

object that attracted the attention of the guide and myself was a large

bull of twelve points at very close range. I thought in the hurry of

the moment, my vision perhaps being blurred by nervous strain and

exhaustion, that it was the same magnificent specimen I had shot at

before and was trying to secure, and the animal’s position--turned

quartering toward me--aided the deception. I soon discovered the

mistake, however, my attention being called by the guide to another

bull which proved to be the one I so earnestly desired. I brought my

rifle in position to draw a bead on a vital spot, but the bull was

immediately blanketed by several cows running between. If I could have

had a clear range the shot would have been about the easiest I ever

had, but the faithful cows with their calves swarmed around their

lord, and I beheld with disappointment as fine a pair of antlers as I

ever saw borne safely out of sight. The old bull must have evidently

believed that “there is safety in numbers.”

There is another disadvantage in encountering a great quantity of game

when attempting to secure a good trophy. Each animal, however poor a

head it may possess, has generally a good pair of eyes, a keen scent

and excellent hearing. Each addition to a herd is another sentinel,

always on duty and ready at any moment to sound the alarm. On a

previous hunting trip, when the elk were not nearly so plentiful, I

got the heads I wanted in less time. I cannot place the blame for the

trouble I had in securing my heads on the cows entirely.

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