fired, and each evening the town and suburbs were magnificently
illuminated: many houses exhibiting allegorical transparencies which
occupied their whole front. But the illumination of the Chinese
triumphal arches in the suburbs surpassed all the show: the dragons
which ornamented them spat fire; flames of various colours played around
them; and large fire-balls discharged from them emulated the moon in
the heavens, till, from their increasing height, they seemed to
disappear among the stars. Each of these edifices was of three stories,
surrounded by galleries, on which, during the day, the Chinese performed
various feats for the amusement of the people: there were conjurors,
rope-dancers, magic lanterns, and even dramatic representations, the
multitude eagerly flocking to the sight, and expressing their
satisfaction in loud huzzas! I saw a tragedy performed on one of these
galleries, in which a fat Mandarin, exhibiting a comic variety of
grimaces and strange capers which would have done credit to Punchinello,
submitted to strangulation at the command of his sovereign. At night,
the people went about the streets masked, and letting off sky-rockets
and Chinese fireworks. In several parts of the town, various kinds of
spectacles were exhibited for the popular amusement: the air resounded
with music, and public balls were gratuitously given.
This unexampled rejoicing for the reception of a testimonial of royal
approbation, seems sufficiently to prove the loyalty of the Philippines,
and the little probability of their revolting, especially if the
mother-country does not show herself wholly a stepmother to her dutiful
children.
On the 10th of January our frigate was ready to sail, and we left
Manilla, the whole crew being in perfect health.
ST. HELENA.
ST. HELENA.
A fresh north-east monsoon expedited our voyage, and we cut the equator
on the 21st of January, in the longitude 253° 38'; then passing between
the islands of Sumatra and Java, we reached the ocean, after having
safely traversed the Chinese Sea from its northern to its southern
boundary, and directed our course towards the Cape of Good Hope, where
we intended staying to refresh. When we had reached to longitude 256°,
12° south latitude, the east wind, contrary to all rules at this season,
changed for a westerly one, and blew a strong gale; the sky was covered
with black clouds, and the rain fell in torrents. At midnight, while the
storm was still raging, and the darkness complete, we witnessed the
phenomenon known by the name of Castor and Pollux, and which originates
in the electricity of the atmosphere; these were two bright balls of the
size which the planet Venus appears to us, and of the same clear light;
we saw them at two distinct periods, which followed quickly upon each
other in the same place, that is, some inches below the extreme point of
our main-yard, and at about half a foot distance asunder. Their
appearance lasted some minutes, and made a great impression on the crew,
who did not understand its cause. I must confess, that in the utter
darkness, amidst the howling of the storm and the roaring of the water,
there was something awful in the sight.
Our passage was rendered tedious by contrary winds. On the 22nd of
February, we crossed the meridian of the Isle of France, three hundred
and forty miles off the island, in very stormy weather, and heard
afterwards at St. Helena, that a hurricane raged at this time near the
Isle of France, causing great damage to many vessels, and to some of
them the loss of their masts. We should have probably shared in this
danger had we been a hundred miles nearer the coast. I must here
recommend every navigator, if possible, to keep clear of the two isles
of France and Bourbon, from the middle of January till the middle of
March, as, during that season, violent hurricanes continually rage
there, which are very destructive even on shore.
On the following day we passed the large frigate Bombay, belonging to
the English East India Company, having on board, as passengers, the
Governor of Batavia, Baron vander Kapellen, and his lady, with whom we
afterwards had the pleasure of forming an acquaintance in St. Helena. On
the 15th of March we doubled the Cape of Good Hope. It had been my
intention to anchor in Table Bay, but a storm from the north-west came
just in time to remind us how dangerous the bay is at this season, and
we prosecuted our voyage to St. Helena. On the 25th of the same month,
having traversed 360 degrees of longitude from east to west, we had lost
a day, and were therefore compelled to change our Friday into a
Saturday.
On the 29th we anchored at St. Helena, before the little town of St.
James, the whole crew being cheerful and healthy; but our spirits were
soon damped by the news of the death of the Emperor Alexander, which we
now received. I must here not omit to express my most cordial thanks to
the Governor of St. Helena, for his very kind reception of myself and
companions, and for his constant endeavours to make our stay on the
island agreeable; he gave dinners and balls for our entertainment, and
was always ready to comply with our wishes; hence he granted us what it
is usually difficult to obtain--permission to visit the celebrated
estate of Longwood, where Napoleon closed his splendid career, in
powerless and desolate loneliness. We rode thither one fine morning, on
horseback. The little town of St. James lies in a ravine between two
high, steep, barren lava-rocks; its pleasant situation and cheerful
aspect presenting a striking contrast with the gloom of its immediate
environs. By a serpentine road cut through the rock, we climbed an
ascent, by nature inaccessible; this path, in some parts not three
fathoms in breadth, is bounded on one side by the perpendicular rock,
and on the other overlooks an abrupt precipice, from which however it is
defended by a strong stone balustrade, so that however fearful in
appearance, its only real danger lies in an accident which sometimes
happens, that large fragments detach themselves from the superincumbent
rock, and roll down the precipice, carrying before them every thing that
might obstruct their passage to the bottom.
Having with some difficulty reached the highest ground on the island, we
found the tropical heat changed into a refreshing coolness, and enjoyed
an extensive prospect over the island, which presented a totally
different aspect from that under which it is viewed by passing vessels.
The sailor sees only high, black, jagged, and desolate rocks, rising
perpendicularly from the sea, and every where washed by a tremendous
surf, prohibiting all attempts to land except at the single point of St.
James: his eye vainly seeks round the adamant wall, the relief of one
sprig of green; not a trace of vegetation appears, and Nature herself
seems to have destined the spot for a gloomy and infrangible prison.
From these heights, on the contrary, the picturesque and smiling
landscape of the interior forms the most striking contrast to its
external sternness, and suggests the idea of a gifted mind, compelled by
painful experience to shroud its charms under a forbidding veil of
coldness and reserve.
This remark only, however, applies to the western part of the island,
which is protected from the trade-wind. The higher eastern part, where
Napoleon lived, is as dead and barren as its rocky boundary. The
trade-wind to which this district is constantly exposed, brings a
perpetual fog, and drives the clouds in congregated heaps to the summits
of the mountain, where they frequently burst in sudden and violent
showers, often producing inundations, and rendering the air damp and
unwholesome for the greater part of the year. The ground is for this
reason incapable of cultivation; and a species of gum-tree, the only one
to be seen in the neighbourhood of Longwood, by its stunted growth of
hardly six feet, and its universal bend in one direction, proves how
destructive is the effect of the trade-wind to all vegetable life. The
nearer we approached the boundaries of the circle within which alone
the renowned prisoner was permitted to move, the less pleasant became
the country and the more raw the climate, till about a German mile from
the town we found ourselves on the barren spot I have already described.
Here a narrow path leads down an abrupt descent into a small valley, or
basin, surrounded by hills, sheltered from the wind, and offering in its
verdant foliage and cheerful vegetation, a refreshing and agreeable
retreat. "There rest the remains of Napoleon," said the guide given us
by the governor. We dismounted, and proceeded to the grave on foot. An
old invalid who watches it, and lives in a lonely hut in its vicinity,
now came towards us, and conducted us to a flat, tasteless grave-stone
surrounded by an iron railing, and shaded by fine willows, planted
probably by the last dependents of the unfortunate prisoner. It is a
melancholy thing to tread this simple grave of him who once shook all
Europe with his name, and here at last closed his too eventful life on a
lonely rock in a distant ocean. The stone bears no inscription, but all
who behold it may imagine one. Posterity alone can pronounce a correct
judgment on the man who so powerfully influenced the destinies of
nations. Honesty may perhaps have been the only quality wanting to have
made him the greatest man of his age.
The invalid filled a common earthen jug with clear delicious water from
a neighbouring spring, and handed it to us with the remark, that
Napoleon, in his walks hither, was accustomed to refresh himself with
cold water from the same vessel. This little valley being the only spot
where he could breathe a wholesome air, and enjoy the country, he often
visited it, and once expressed a wish that he might be buried there.
Little as his wishes were usually attended to, this was fulfilled.
After spending some time in contemplating this remarkable memorial of
the vicissitudes of fortune, we inscribed our names in a book kept for
the purpose, and again mounting our horses, rode to what had formerly
been the abode of the deceased; where, deprived of all power, the
deposed Emperor to the last permitted the voluntary companions of his
exile to address him by the titles of "Sire," and "Your Majesty." On
quitting the garden scenery of the pretty little valley, the country
resumed its dreary and sterile character. A ride of about a German mile
through this inhospitable region, uncheered either by the fragrance of
flowers or the melody of birds, brought us within sight of an
inconsiderable level, or table land, perfectly barren, crowning the
summit of one of the highest hillocks into which this huge rock is
divided. In the centre of the plain, and enveloped in so thick a fog
that it was scarcely perceptible, stood a small unpretending mansion.
"That," said our guide, "is Longwood, late the residence of Napoleon."
We soon reached the house, expecting to find it as left at the death of
its illustrious occupant; with how much interest should we not have
visited it, if nothing had been changed or removed! But the English
authorities had not taken our gratification into their consideration.
The house is divided into two distinct portions; the smaller half, or
Napoleon's sleeping apartment, has been converted into a stable, and the
larger into a warehouse for sheep-skins, fat, and other produce of the
island.
We had been informed that Napoleon had laid out a little garden near
his dwelling, in which he often worked, assisted by Madame Bertrand;
and, after many fruitless attempts, had been at length rewarded by the
blossoming of a few hardy flowers, and the successful plantation of some
young oaks; that one of the latter was set by the hand of Napoleon
himself, another by that of Madame Bertrand.
As we could see nothing resembling a garden, I enquired of our guide
where it lay; he pointed, with a sarcastic smile, to a spot which had
been routed up by hogs, saying, "Here Napoleon was as successful in
rearing flowers as he had once been in founding empires, and both have
equally vanished." Some oaks are still standing beside a broken hedge,
but whether planted by Napoleon or not, no one can tell. We were also
shown a pretty house, which had been built for Napoleon by the King's
command, but which was not complete till a very short time before his
death. Though much better and more convenient than the one he inhabited,
he never could be induced to remove to it; perhaps already conscious of
the approach of death, he felt no farther concern for the
accommodations of life.
Strongly contrasted with the gloom and sterility of Longwood, is the
summer residence of the Governor of St. Helena, lying on Sandy Bay, on
the western shore of the island, and about half a German mile from the
town. In this beautiful and healthful climate, every tropical plant
flourishes in the greatest luxuriance. We were hospitably received at
Plantation-house, a handsome, spacious, and convenient building,
surrounded by an extensive park. In this delightful spot nature and art
have combined at once to charm and to surprise; yet while breathing its
pure and fragrant air, would our thoughts unconsciously revert with
sympathy to the melancholy fate of the exile of Longwood.
The environs of Sandy Bay would be a perfect little Switzerland, but
that the glaciers are wanting to complete the resemblance. Scattered
amongst the enormous masses of rock which lie confusedly heaped upon
each other, a frightful wilderness and most smilingly picturesque
landscape alternately present their contrasted images to the eye. Such
are the traits which the hand of Nature has impressed upon the scenery
in this fortunate portion of the island; while that of man, busily
engaged in adding to her charms, and in correcting her ruggedness,
throws an appearance of life, comfort, and civilization over the
picture. Convenient roads wind up the steep ascents, and frequent
openings in the cliff, present vistas of fruitful fields, tastefully
built mansions surrounded by parks and plantations, and snug farm-houses
embosomed in their pretty gardens. Every thing bespeaks industry and
comfort. The inhabitants are all well-dressed, healthy, and contented.
Of their hospitality we had the most agreeable evidences. Invited with
friendly cordiality into their houses, we were entertained with the best
they had, and with the kindest expressions of pleasure in welcoming the
first Russians who had ever visited their country.
We were invited to dinner by one of the richest land proprietors of the
island, who, although considerably more than seventy years old, still
retained the animation and vigour of youth. This intelligent and
well-educated man had never, till his sixty-ninth year, left his
beautiful home, except for an occasional and short visit to the town.
Through the medium of books, and conversation with the strangers
visiting St. Helena, he was well versed in the customs and localities of
Europe, and felt the highest respect for the perfection to which the
arts and sciences of civilized life had been carried in that quarter of
the world, but without experiencing any desire to see it; suddenly,
however, at this advanced period of his life, curiosity got the better
of his love of ease; his wish to become personally and more accurately
acquainted with the much-praised institutions, and the wonderful capital
of England, was no longer to be repressed, and he determined to
undertake the voyage. On landing in London, he was, as he expressed
himself, astonished and dazzled by the extent and magnificence of the
city. The throng in the streets, which he compared to ant-hills, far
exceeded the ideas he had formed; he visited the manufactories, and
observed with wonder the perfection of their machinery; the theatres
enchanted him, and the succession of new sights and impressions
produced an effect resembling a perpetual intoxication. After a time,
however, he experienced the fatigue incident to an extreme tension of
mind, and began to sigh for the calm retirement of Sandy Bay, to which
he took the first opportunity of returning, never to leave it more.
We passed nine very agreeable days at St. Helena, and shall always
retain the liveliest remembrance of the kindness shown us by its amiable
inhabitants. My crew, though healthy, had in some degree suffered from
the effects of a nearly three years' voyage, and I was anxious during
our stay here to strengthen them by a regimen of fresh provisions,
(which, however, are very dear upon the island,) particularly as we had
again to cross the line, and that in a region often considered
unhealthy.
On the 7th of April we sailed from St. Helena, and cut the equator on
the 16th in the longitude 22° 37'. Here, delayed by calms, and oppressed
by the heat and damps, notwithstanding all my precautions, a nervous
fever broke out among the men; and, after having escaped so many
dangers, we began to apprehend a melancholy conclusion to our voyage.
This misfortune had probably been communicated to us by contagion. The
homeward-bound ships of the English East India Company, which almost all
touch at St. Helena, having nothing in view but a quick passage, and the
profit resulting from it, do not generally, as I have myself had
opportunities of observing, pay that proper attention to cleanliness and
wholesome diet which is absolutely necessary to health. During our
residence at St. Helena, several of these ships were lying in the roads
with sick on board. It is true that, according to a standing order, no
vessel is allowed anchorage there till a surgeon has examined into the
state of health of her crew; but the captains find means to evade the
investigation, and thus are the healthy liable to become infected by
association with the diseased.
Half our crew lay sick, and our skilful and active surgeon was
unfortunately of the number. A favouring gale, however, sprang up, which
carried us into a cooler and drier climate, our invalids quickly
recovered, and we escaped with the loss of one sailor only. By the 12th
of March, when we passed the Azore Islands, the crew was again in
perfect health. On the 3rd of June we reached Portsmouth, where we
stopped some days. On the 29th we touched at Copenhagen, and on the 10th
of July joyfully dropped our anchor in the roads of Cronstadt, from
whence we had sailed nearly three years before.
If my readers have by this time become sufficiently acquainted with me
to interest themselves in my affairs, they will not learn with
indifference, that my most gracious Sovereign the Emperor has honoured
me by the most condescending testimonials of his satisfaction, and that
after our long separation, I had the gratification of finding my wife
and children well and happy.
APPENDIX.
REVIEW
OF
THE ZOOLOGICAL COLLECTION
OF
FR. ESCHSCHOLTZ,
PROFESSOR AT THE UNIVERSITY OF DORPAT.
It may easily be conceived, that in a sea-voyage a naturalist has fewer
opportunities of enriching his collection, than when travelling by land;
particularly if the vessel is obliged to pass hastily from one place to
another, with a view to her arriving at her destination within a limited
period. During our three years' voyage, little more than the third of
our time was spent on shore. It is true, that curious animals are
occasionally found in the open sea, and that a day may be pleasantly
passed in examining them; but it is also true, that certain parts of the
ocean appear, near the surface, to be almost wholly untenanted; and
accordingly a passage of eleven weeks produced only ten species of
animals: these, however, being met with only at sea, are still but
partially known to the naturalist, and were the more interesting to me,
as, during the preceding voyage, I had become acquainted with many
remarkable productions of the ocean. My best plan will be, to arrange in
a chronological order all the zoological observations which offered in
the course of this voyage. The first, then, was the result of a contrary
wind, by which we were detained much longer than we intended in the
Baltic, and thus enabled to use our deep fishing-nets upon the great
banks: these brought to light a considerable number of marine animals.
Upon the branches of the _spongia dichotoma_, some of which were twelve
inches in length, sat swarms of _Ophiura fragilis_, _Asterias rubens_,
_Inachus araneus_, _I. Phalangium_, _I. Scorpio_, _Galathea strigosa_,
and _Caprella scolopendroides Lam._ We obtained, at the same time, large
pieces of _Labularia digitata_, _Sertularia abietina_, upon which
nothing of the animal kind was to be seen, but attached to which was
frequently found _Flustra dentata_; also _Pagurus Bernhardus_, _Fusus
antiquus_, _Rostellaria pes pelecani_, _Cardium echinatum_, _Ascidia
Prunum_, _Balanus sulcatus_, _Echinus saxatilis_, and _Spatangus
flavescens_. Two different species of _Actiniæ_, seated on stones, were
brought up, which were not to be found either in _Pennant's British
Zoology_, or in the _Fauna danica_.
During a calm, by which we were detained two days on the Portuguese
coast, _Janthina fragilis_ and _exigua_, _Rhizophysa filiformis_, and
another species, were brought up. Many specimens of the _Janthina
exigua_ were found, the bladder-like mass of which was stretched out to
a great length, and bent into the form of a hook at the end. On the
outer side was observed a fleshy streak, bordered by a close row of
small paunches: these paunches, which were externally open, contained a
great quantity of brown atoms, apparently spawn, and evidently in
motion. With respect to the _Rhizophysæ_, it has been discovered that
they are of the same genus as the _Physsophora_, the hard part being
torn away in the act of catching them; upon this occasion also, several
of these separated parts, still in motion, and bearing some resemblance
to salpas, were brought up, and accurately examined.
Off the Cape de Verd Islands, in addition to the _Exocoetus volitans_,
which abounds there, various specimens of the much larger _Exocoetus
exsiliens_ of Cuvier alighted on board our vessel. The latter species is
distinguished by the long black fins of the belly, and by its remarkably
large eyes, differing greatly from the species described by Gmelin under
the same denomination.
The calms near the Equator afford an abundant harvest to the zoologist,
the tranquil water presenting an immense variety of marine animals to
his view, and allowing him to take them with little trouble in a net.
The open woollen stuff used for flags offers the most convenient
material for making these nets, as it allows the water to run through
very quickly, and does not stick together. A short, wide bag should be
made of this stuff, which may be stretched upon the hoop of a cask, and
the whole fastened to a long, light pole. From the height on which we
stand above the water, it is impossible to perceive the smaller animals;
the best way therefore to catch these is, to hold the net half in the
water, as if to skim off the bubbles of foam from the surface; then,
after a few minutes, if the net is drawn out, and the interior rinsed in
a glass of fresh sea-water, one may frequently have the pleasure of
seeing little animals of strange forms swimming in the glass. In the
course of ten days, I obtained, in this way, thirty-one different
species of animals, among which was a small _Diodon_, eight small
crustacea of forms almost wholly unknown; a sea-bug (_Halobates
micans_); three species of Pteropodes, closely allied to the _Cliodora_;
a small and remarkable Hyaloea; two new _Janthinæ_; _Firola hyalina_,
_Pyrosoma atlanticum_, _Salpa coerulescens_, and another unknown;
_Porpita glandifera_, and a new species of globular form; a _Velella_;
two new species of Acalephes, of the same family as the _Diphyes_; and
further _Pelagia panopyra_, and two other very small species. When the
sea was a little agitated on the Brazilian coast, we frequently saw the
large sea-bladder floating on the surface; here we also caught with our
net a new species of small _Hyaloea_, and of the fin-footed _Steira_,
which approaches the nearest to the _Limacina_.