11° north latitude, from the Radak chain to the Bronus Isles, there
should be a current of a mile and a half per hour.
THE LADRONES,
AND THE
PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.
THE LADRONES, AND THE PHILIPPINE ISLANDS.
Having, in my former voyage, given a detailed account of these islands,
I need not here add much concerning them. A fresh breeze, and fine
weather, made our voyage agreeable and rapid. On the morning of the 25th
of October, we saw the island Sarpani, which belongs to the Ladrones,
lying before us at the distance of twenty-five miles, and soon after
distinguished the principal island, Guaham, whither we were bound. The
longitude of the eastern point of Sarpani was found to be 214° 38'.
The aspect of the eastern point of Guaham, which is exposed to a
constant trade-wind, does not suggest an idea of the fertility of the
island; but the traveller is agreeably surprised at the sight of its
western coast, where Nature has been most prodigal; and cannot but
remember with sorrow the extermination of the natives by the Spaniards,
on their taking possession of the islands and forcibly introducing the
Catholic religion.
It is remarkable that the soil of Guaham, under the first stratum of
earth, consists of coral blocks not yet quite dissolved; from which it
may be conjectured, that a former group of low coral islands, as well as
the basin which they enclosed, were forced upwards by the power of
subterranean fire; and in this manner the island of Guaham has been
formed. This hypothesis is confirmed by Mr. Hoffman's discovery of a
crater on the island, with a fire still burning in its abyss.
The fortress, standing on what is called the Devil's Point, intended for
the defence of the town of Agadna, was so peacefully disposed, that not
one of its cannons was fit for use. I saw, to my great astonishment, in
the harbour Caldera de Apra, ships bearing the English and North
American flags. The Spaniards do not usually permit the entrance of
foreign vessels; but I was informed by the captains of these, that the
whalers who pursue their occupations on the coast of Japan, now
frequently choose Guaham for refitting and victualling their ships. I
also heard, with much pleasure, that they exclusively use our Admiral
Krusenstern's chart of the Japanese coast; and they assured me, that
objects even of minor importance are laid down in it with the greatest
accuracy. How much cause have seamen for thankfulness to one who has
provided them with such a chart! their lives frequently depend on the
correctness of these guides; and an erroneous one may be worse than none
at all.
As I only intended stopping here a few days, and the harbour is by no
means safe, I determined not to enter it, but sent an officer to the
Governor, with a list of fresh provisions which I requested his
assistance in procuring. On the following morning, I rowed with some of
my officers ashore, and we were received by the Governor, Don Gango
Errero, who had already taken measures for supplying our wants, with
great civility, though not without some degree of Spanish stateliness.
His government here confirms an observation repeatedly made, that a few
years of a bad administration are sufficient to undo all that a good one
may have effected by a long series of exertions. Eight years ago, when
Medenilla was governor, the most perfect content, and prosperity to a
certain extent, existed in Guaham; and now, by the fault of one man,
every thing bears a totally different aspect. So much depends on the
choice of the person to whom power is delegated, at such a distance from
the seat of sovereignty as that the complaints of the oppressed can
seldom reach it. Errero is even accused of the murder of some English
and American sailors; and, on this occasion, Spanish justice has not
been in vain appealed to by their comrades; for, as I afterwards
learned, the order for Errero's arrest was already made out at the
moment when, in perfect self-confidence and enjoyment, he was
entertaining me with lively songs, accompanied by himself on the guitar;
and Medenilla has been again appointed to the command, that he may
endeavour to repair the evils Errero had occasioned.
Of my earlier acquaintances, I now met only the estimable Don Louis de
Torres, the friend of the Carolinas, who communicated to M. De Chamisso
many interesting particulars respecting these amiable islanders. After
our departure in the Rurik, he had again made a voyage to the Carolinas,
and had persuaded several families to come and settle at Guaham. The
yearly visits of these islanders to Guaham are still regularly
continued; and at the time of our stay, one of their little flotillas
was in the harbour. Being clever seamen, they are much employed by the
Spaniards, who are very ignorant in this respect, in their voyages to
the other Marian Islands, with which, unassisted by their friends of
Carolina, these would hold but little communication. We had an
opportunity of seeing two of their canoes come in from Sarpani, when the
sea ran high, and the wind was very strong, and greatly admired the
skill with which they were managed.
The revolt of the Spanish colonies has not extended itself to these
islands. The inhabitants of Guaham have maintained their loyalty,
notwithstanding the tyranny of their governor, and unseduced by an
example recently given them. A Spanish ship of the line and a frigate,
with fugitive loyalists from Peru, lately touched here; they were bound
for Manilla; but the crews of both ships mutinied, put the officers and
passengers ashore, and returned to Peru to make common cause with the
insurgents.
After remaining four days before Agadna, we took in our provisions, for
which ten times the price was demanded that we had paid here eight years
ago, and left Guaham on the 22nd of October, directing our course for
the Bashi Islands, as I intended to pass through their straits into the
Chinese Sea, and then sail direct to Manilla. On the 1st of November,
our noon observation gave 20° 15' latitude, and 236° 42' longitude, so
that we were already in the neighbourhood of the Bashi and Babuyan
Islands. We continued to sail so briskly till sunset, that we could not
be then far from land; but black clouds had gathered over it, concealing
it from our view, and presaging stormy weather; we did not venture
therefore to advance during the night, but tacked with sails reefed,
waiting the break of day. At midnight we had some violent squalls from
the north with a ruffled sea, but not amounting to a storm. The rising
sun discovered to us the three high Richmond rocks, rising in the middle
of the strait, between the Bashi and Babuyan Islands. Soon after the
island of Bantan appeared, with heavy clouds still lingering behind its
cliffs. The weather was, however, at present fine, the wind blowing
strongly from the north; we therefore set as much sail as the gale would
permit us to carry, and pursued our course through the strait formed by
the Richmond rocks, and the southern Bashi Islands. In clearing these
straits, we had reason to apprehend serious damage to our rigging, or
even the loss of a mast. A heavy squall from the north-east put the sea
in great commotion. The billows chafed and roared as they broke over
each other, and were met in the narrow channel by a current, driving
from the Chinese Sea into the ocean. This furious encounter of the
contending waves produced the appearance of breakers, through which we
were compelled to work our dangerous way; the ship, sometimes tossed to
their utmost summit, then, without the power of resistance, suddenly
precipitated into the yawning gulf between them, wore, however, through
all her trials, and gave me cause for exultation in the strength of her
masts, and the goodness of her tackling. We passed two hours in this
anxious and critical condition, but at length emerged into the Chinese
Sea; where the comparative peacefulness of the waves allowed us to
repose after our fatigues, and even afforded us an opportunity of
ascertaining our longitudes.
We found the longitude of the most
easterly of the Richmond rocks 237° 50' 2"
most westerly 237° 52' 0"
the eastern point
of the Island of Bantan 237° 55' 32"
the western point
of Babuyan 238° 0' 56"
the western point
of the Bashi Island 238° 4' 47"
latitude of the eastern point 20° 15' 47".
All these longitudes are determined according to our chronometers, which
were tried immediately after our arrival in Manilla. They differ from
those on Horsbourg's new chart by three minutes and a half, ours being
so much more westerly.
With a favourable wind we now sailed southwards, in sight of the
western coast of Luçon, till we reached the promontory of Bajador, where
we were detained some days by calms, therefore did not come in sight of
Manilla bay till the 7th of November. Here the wind was violent and
contrary; but as it blew from the land, could not materially swell the
waves: we were therefore enabled, by tacking, to advance considerably
forward; and at length contrived to run into the bay, by the southern
entrance, between its shores and the island of Corregidor. A Spanish
brig, which was tacking at the same time, lost both her top-masts in a
sudden gust.
On the morning of the 8th of November we anchored before the town of
Manilla. I immediately waited on Don Mariano Ricofort, the Governor of
the Philippines. He gave me a friendly reception, and granted the
permission I requested, to sail to Cavite, a hamlet lying on the bay,
within a few miles of the town, and possessing the advantage of a
convenient dock. Our ship being greatly in want of repair, we removed
thither on the following day, and immediately commenced our labours.
We spent our time very pleasantly in this lovely tropical country. How
richly has Nature endowed it, and how little is her bounty appreciated
by the Spaniards! The whole world does not offer a more advantageous
station for commerce than the town of Manilla, situated as it is in the
neighbourhood of the richest countries of Asia, and almost midway
between Europe and America. Spanish jealousy had formerly closed her
port; but since the revolt of the American colonies, it has been opened
to all nations, and the Philippines are consequently rising rapidly to
importance. As yet, their export trade has been chiefly confined to
sugar and indigo for Europe, and the costly Indian bird's-nest, and
_Trepangs_, for China. The latter is a kind of sea-snail without a
shell, which not only here, but on the Ladrones, Carolinas, and Pelew
Islands, even as far as New Holland, is as eagerly sought after as the
sea-otter on the north-west coast of America. The luxurious Chinese
consider them a powerful restorative of strength, and purchase them as
such at an exorbitant price. But what an inexhaustible store of
commercial articles might not these islands export! Coffee of the best
quality, cocoa, and two sorts of cotton, the one remarkably fine, the
produce of a shrub, the other of a tree, all grow wild here, and with
very little cultivation might be made to yield a prodigious increase of
wealth. These productions of Nature are, however, so much neglected,
that at present no regular trade is carried on in them. A great
abundance of the finest sago trees, and whole woods of cinnamon, grow
wild and unnoticed in Luçon. Nutmegs, cloves, and all the produce of the
Moluccas, are also indigenous on these islands, and industry only (a
commodity which, unfortunately, does not flourish here,) is wanting to
make them a copious source of revenue. Pearls, amber, and cochineal,
abound in the Philippines; and the bosom of the earth contains gold,
silver, and other metals. For centuries past, have the Spaniards
suffered all these treasures to lie neglected, and are even now sending
out gold to maintain their establishments.
The regular troops here, as well as the militia, are natives. The
officers are Spaniards, though many of them are born here, and all, at
least with few exceptions, are extremely ignorant. It is said that the
soldiers are brave, especially when blessed, and encouraged by the
priests. As far, however, as I have had an opportunity of observing the
military force, I cannot think it would ever make a stand against an
European army. Not only are the troops badly armed, but even the
officers, who are in fact distinguished from the privates only by their
uniforms, have no idea of discipline; any sort of precision in their
manoeuvres is out of the question; and to find a sentinel comfortably
asleep with his musket on his shoulder, is by no means an uncommon
occurrence.
I was told that Luçon contained eight thousand regular troops, and that
by summoning the militia, twenty thousand could be assembled.
The field of honour where the heroes of Luçon distinguish themselves is
on the southern Philippine Islands, which are not yet subdued; they are
inhabited by Mahommedan Indians, who are constantly at war with the
Spaniards, and who, ranging as pirates over all the coasts inhabited by
Christians, spread terror and desolation wherever they appear. From time
to time some well manned gun-boats are sent in pursuit of these
robbers; which expend plenty of ammunition with very little effect.
It is said that six thousand Chinese inhabit the suburbs of Manilla, to
which they are restricted. The greater part of them are clever and
industrious mechanics; the rest are merchants, and some of them very
rich: they are the Jews of Luçon, but even more given to cheating and
all kinds of meanness than are the Israelites, and with fewer, or rather
with no exceptions. They enjoy no privileges above the lowest of the
people, but are despised, oppressed, and often unjustly treated. Their
covetousness induces them to submit to all this; and as they are
entirely divested of any feeling of honour, a small profit will console
them for a great insult. The yearly tax paid by every Chinese for
liberty to breathe the air in Manilla, is six piastres; and if he wishes
to carry on any sort of trade, five more; while the native Indian pays
no more than five reals.
The Philippines also did not follow the example of the American
colonies; for some disturbances among the Indians here, were not
directed against the government, and an insurrection soon after
attempted proved unsuccessful. The former were occasioned by a few
innocent botanists wandering through the island in search of plants; and
an epidemic disease breaking out among the Indians about the same time,
of which many died, a report suddenly spread among them, that the
foreign collectors of plants had poisoned the springs in order to
exterminate them. Enraged at this idea, they assembled in great numbers,
murdered several strangers, and even plundered and destroyed the houses
of some of the old settlers in the town of Manilla. It has been supposed
that the Spaniards themselves really excited these riots, that they
might fish in the troubled waters.
The late governor, Fulgeros, is accused of not having adopted measures
sufficiently active for repressing the insurrection. This judicious and
amiable man, who was perhaps too mild a governor for so rude a people,
was murdered in his bed a year after by a native, of Spanish blood, an
officer in one of the regiments here, who followed up this crime by
heading a mutiny of the troops. The insurgents assembled in the
market-place, but were soon dispersed by a regiment which remained
faithful, and in a few hours peace was re-established, and has not since
been disturbed. The present governor, Ricofort, was sent out to succeed
the unfortunate Fulgeros.
The King, affected by the loyalty displayed by the town of Manilla, at a
time when the other colonies had thrown off their allegiance, presented
it with a portrait of himself, in token of his especial favour. The
picture was brought out by the new governor, and received with a degree
of veneration which satisfactorily evinced the high value set by the
faithful colony on the royal present. It was first deposited in a house
in the suburb belonging to the Crown, and then made its entry into the
town in grand procession, and was carried to the station of honour
appointed for it in the castle. This important ceremony took place
during our residence here, on the 6th of December; and three days
previously, the King in effigy had held a court in the suburb. The house
was splendidly illuminated: in front of it stood a piquet of
well-dressed soldiers; sentinels were placed at all the doors; the
apartments were filled with attendants, pages, and officers of every
rank in gala uniforms; and the etiquette of the Spanish court was as
much as possible adhered to throughout the proceedings. Persons whose
rank entitled them to the honour of a presentation to the King, were
conducted into the audience-chamber, which was splendidly adorned with
hangings of Chinese silk: here the picture, concealed by a silk curtain,
was placed on a platform raised a few steps from the floor, under a
canopy of silk overhanging two gilded pillars. The colonel on duty
acting as Lord Chamberlain, conducted the person to be presented before
the picture, and raised the curtain. The King then appeared in a mantle
lined with ermine, and with a crown upon his head; the honoured
individual made a low bow; the King looked in gracious silence upon him;
the curtain was again lowered, and the audience closed.
On the 6th of December, the immense multitudes that had assembled from
the different provinces, to celebrate the solemn entry of the portrait
into the capital of the islands, were in motion at daybreak. The lower
classes were seen in all kinds of singular costumes, some of them most
laughable caricatures, and some even wearing masks. Rockets and Chinese
fireworks saluted the rising sun, producing of course, by daylight, no
other effects than noise, smoke, and confusion, while elegant equipages
rolled along the streets, scarcely able to make their way through the
crowd. At nine o'clock, a royal salute thundered from the cannon of the
fortress; and at twelve the procession began to move, displaying a
rather ludicrous mixture of Spanish and Asiatic taste. I saw it from the
windows of a house on its route, which commanded a very extensive view
of the line of march. The cortège was led by the Chinese. First came a
body of twenty-four musicians, some striking with sticks upon large
round plates of copper, producing an effect not unlike the jingling of
bells, and others performing most execrably upon instruments resembling
clarionets. The sound of the copper plates was too confused to allow us
to distinguish either time or tune--points of no great consequence
perhaps; the choir, at least, did not trouble much about them. The
musicians were followed by a troop of Chinese bearing silken banners,
upon which were represented their idols, and dragons of all sorts and
sizes, surrounded by hieroglyphical devices. Next followed, in a kind of
litter richly ornamented, a young Chinese girl with a pair of scales in
her hand, and intended, as I was told, to represent Justice, a virtue
for which her country-people, in these parts, have not much cause to
applaud themselves. Another set of musicians surrounded the goddess,
making din enough with their copper plates to drown every complaint that
might endeavour to reach her ear. Then came the rest of the Chinese, in
different bands, with the symbols of their respective trades represented
upon banners. Four Bacchantes, somewhat advanced in age, and in an
attire more loose than was consistent with modesty, followed next: from
their long, black, dishevelled hair, they might have been taken for
Furies; and it was only their crowns of vine-leaves, and the goblets in
their hands, that enabled us to guess what they were intended to
represent. Bacchus, very much resembling a Harlequin, followed with his
tambourine; and after him, a body of very immodest dancers: these, as
the procession moved but slowly, halting frequently, had abundant
opportunities of displaying their shameless talent, for the benefit of
the shouting rabble. Why the procession should be disgraced by such an
exhibition, it was not easy to conceive; but there were many other
inconceivable matters connected with it. A troop of Indians followed, in
motley and grotesque attire, intended to represent savages: they were
armed with spears and shields, and kept up a continual skirmish as they
marched. Next in procession was a battalion of infantry, composed of
boys armed with wooden muskets and pasteboard cartridge-boxes, and
followed by a squadron of hussars, also boys, with drawn sabres of wood,
not riding, but carrying pasteboard horses: each of these had a hole cut
in its saddle, through which the hussar thrust his feet, relieving the
charger from any actual necessity of making use of his own--though, to
show its high blood and mettlesome quality, each emulated his fellow in
prancing, rearing, and kicking with front and hind-legs, to the no small
danger of discomfiting the parade order of the squadron. To this
redoubtable army succeeded a party of giants two fathoms high, dressed
in the very extremity of fashion, the upper part of their bodies being
represented in pasteboard, accompanied by ladies elegantly attired, and
of nearly equal dimensions, and by some very small dwarfs: the business
of this whole group was to entertain the populace with pantomimic
gestures, and comic dances. Next came all sorts of animals, lions,
bears, oxen, &c. of a size sufficiently gigantic to conceal a man in
each leg. Then, with grave and dignified deportment, marched Don Quixote
and his faithful Sancho. To the question, what the honourable Knight of
the Rueful Countenance was doing there, somebody replied that he
represented the inhabitants of Manilla, who were just then mistaking a
windmill for a giant. The hero of Cervantes was followed by a body of
military, seemingly marching under his command; and after them came two
hundred young girls from the different provinces of the Philippine
Islands, richly and tastefully attired in their various local costumes.
Fifty of these young graces drew the triumphal car, richly gilt, and
hung with scarlet velvet, which contained the picture of Ferdinand. Not
content with the mantle the painter had given him, they had hung round
him a real mantle of purple velvet embroidered with gold. By his side,
and seated on a globe, was a tall female form dressed in white, with an
open book in one hand, and in the other a wand, pointing towards the
portrait. This figure was to represent the Muse of History:--may she one
day cast a glance of friendly retrospection on the prototype of her
pictured companion! A body of cavalry followed the car, and the
carriages of the most distinguished inhabitants of the place closed the
procession. Several Chinese triumphal arches crossed the streets,
through which the retinue passed; they were temporary erections of wood,
occupying the whole breadth of the street, and were decorated in the
gayest and most showy manner by the Chinese, who, on this occasion,
seemed to have spared no expense in order to flatter the vanity of the
Spaniards.
When the royal effigy entered the town, it was received by the Governor
and the whole clergy of Manilla, and the young girls were superseded by
the townspeople, who had now the honour to draw the car amidst the
incessant cry of "_Viva el Rey Fernando!_" The cannon thundered from the
ramparts; the military bands played airs of triumph; and the troops,
which were ranged in two files from the gate of the town to the church,
presented arms, and joined their "Vivas" to those of the populace. The
procession halted at the church; and the picture being carried in, the
bishop performed the service; after which, the King was replaced on his
car, and conducted to the residence of the Governor, where, at length,
he was installed in peace.