regarded with the reverence which, in its purity, it is calculated to
inspire in the most uncultivated minds. In conclusion, Nomahanna
triumphantly informed me, that the women might now eat as much pork as
they pleased, instead of being, as formerly, limited to dog's flesh. At
this observation, an intrusive idea suddenly changed her tone and the
expression of her features. With a deep sigh, she exclaimed--"What would
Tameamea say if he could behold the changes which have taken place here?
No more Gods--no more Marais: all are destroyed! It was not so in his
time:--we shall never have such another king!" Then, while the tears
trickled down her cheeks, she bared her right arm, and showed me,
tattooed on it in the O Wahi language--"Our good King Tameamea died on
the 8th of May 1819." This sign of mourning for the beloved monarch,
which cannot be laid aside like our pieces of crape, but accompanies the
mourner to the grave, is very frequent on the Sandwich Islands, and
testifies the esteem in which his memory is held: but it is a still more
striking proof of the universal grief for his loss, that on the
anniversary of his death, all his subjects struck out one of their front
teeth; and the whole nation have in consequence acquired a sort of
whistle in speaking. Chinau had even had the above words tattooed on his
tongue, of which he gave me ocular demonstration; nor was he singular in
this mode of testifying his attachment. It is surprising that an
operation so painful, and which occasions a considerable swelling,
should not be attended with worse consequences.
Nomahanna spoke with enthusiasm on the subject of writing. Formerly, she
said, she could only converse with persons who were present; now, let
them be ever so far distant, she could whisper her thoughts softly to
them alone. She promised to write me a letter, in order, she said, that
I might prove to every one in Russia that Nomahanna was able to write.
Our conversation was interrupted by the rattling of wheels, and the
sound of many voices. I looked from the window, and saw a little cart to
which a number of active young men had harnessed themselves with the
greatest complacency. I inquired of Marini what this meant, and was
informed that the Queen was about to drive to church: an attendant soon
after entered, and announced that the equipage was ready. Nomahanna
graciously proposed my accompanying her; and rather than risk her
displeasure by a refusal, I accepted the invitation with many thanks,
though I foresaw that I should thus be drawn in as a party to a very
absurd spectacle.
The Queen now put on a white calico hat decorated with Chinese flowers,
took a large Chinese fan in her hand, and, having completed her toilette
by drawing on a pair of clumsy sailor's boots, we set out. In descending
the stairs, she made a sign that the school was over for the present; an
announcement that seemed very agreeable to the scholars, to the old
ones especially. At the door below, a crowd had assembled, attracted by
curiosity to see me and their Queen drive out together. The young men in
harness shouted for joy, and patiently waited the signal for the race.
Some delay, however, occurred in taking our seats with suitable dignity.
The carriage was very small, and my companion very large, so that I was
fain to be content with a seat upon the edge, with a very good chance of
losing my balance, had not her Majesty, to obviate the danger, encircled
my waist with her stout and powerful arm, and thus secured me on my
seat; our position, and the contrast presented by our figures, had no
doubt a sufficiently comical effect. When we were at length comfortably
settled, the Governor Chinau came forth, and with no other addition than
a round hat to the costume already described, mounted a meagre unsaddled
steed, and off we all went at full gallop, the Queen taking infinite
pains to avoid losing me by the way. The people came streaming from all
sides, shouting "_Aroha maita!_"--our team continually increasing, while
a crowd behind contended for the honour of helping to push us forward.
In this style we drove the whole length of Hanaruro, and in about a
quarter of an hour reached the church, which lies on an ugly flat, and
exactly resembles that at O Tahaiti both in external and internal
appearance.
The congregation was very small. Nomahanna and an old lady were the only
individuals of their sex; and Chinau, myself, and a few others, the only
males present. Even the people who had drawn us did not enter the
church; from which I infer, that the influence of the missionaries is by
no means so considerable as at O Tahaiti; and certainly the converts are
not yet driven with a stick into the house of prayer: nor would it be
easy to fasten on the minds of the people the fetters so patiently
endured on the Society Islands, where the labours of the missionaries
are seldom interrupted by the intervention of strangers. The Sandwich
Islanders are engaged in constant intercourse with foreign sailors,
mostly of licentious characters, who indeed profess the Christian
religion; but brought hither by the desire of gain, or the necessity of
laying in provisions for their ships, are generally wholly occupied in
driving crafty bargains, and certainly are no way instrumental in
inspiring the islanders with ideas of religion or morality, but on the
contrary, set them examples which have a direct tendency to deprave
their minds. Such among these crews as have been guilty of offences on
board ship, frequently run away and settle on the islands. This was
severely prohibited in Tameamea's time, but is now permitted, from
Christian charity. Such characters as these, reckless of every thing
sacred, do not hesitate to make a jest of the missionaries, whose
extraordinary plans and regulations offer many weak points to the shafts
of ridicule.
When Mr. Bengham had concluded a discourse in the O Wahi language, which
might possibly have been highly edifying, but that it was addressed to
little else than empty benches,--for I did not understand him, and the
minds of the few other persons present were evidently occupied with very
different matters,--we returned to the palace in the same style that we
had left it. I then took my leave, having received a promise of being
amply supplied with provisions: the Queen also, at my request, ordered
a small house near her own to be prepared for our astronomical
observations, and our astronomer, M. Preus, took possession of it on the
following day.
Our arrival had created a great sensation on the island. A foreign ship
of war is an uncommon spectacle here--one from Russia more especially,
as the attempt of the insane Dr. Scheffer, in 1816, to raise the island
of O Tuai against Tameamea, in the hope of annexing it to the empire of
Russia, had naturally introduced a fear of similar projects, although
the absurd design was entirely discountenanced by the Emperor Alexander.
The English also, even in their writings, have contributed to spread the
ridiculous idea, that Russia entertained views against the independence
of the Sandwich Islands; and that Rio Rio's voyage was only undertaken
for the purpose of imploring the assistance of England against our
government. From the air of protection which England has for some time
past assumed towards these islands, it is probable that she herself
secretly harbours such a design, and only waits a favourable opportunity
for its execution; although the English always profess to acknowledge
the sovereignty of the native monarch, and the King of England, in
writing to Tameamea, calls him, "Your Majesty."
I am, however, far from desiring to maintain this opinion as founded on
any sufficient grounds. The alarm of the islanders, on the present
occasion, had been in great measure excited by a paragraph in a Mexican
newspaper, recently imported, which contained a new version of the
English fiction. The mistrust, however, did not long subsist. My
assurances of friendship, and the particularly good behaviour of the
whole crew, by which they were advantageously distinguished from those
of the other ships lying here, soon attracted towards us the confidence
and esteem of the natives and their governors. During the whole of my
stay on the island, I had not the slightest cause to be dissatisfied
with the conduct of my men, notwithstanding the temptations to which
they were exposed, from the example of other sailors. All that could be
spared from the ship were, every Sunday, allowed to go ashore; this
being generally known in Hanaruro, a crowd of Wahuaners were always in
waiting to welcome the arrival of our boat. The friendly intercourse
which at all times subsisted between our people and the islanders was
truly gratifying.
I observed with regret, in my daily visits to Hanaruro, that the
Wahuaners had lost the simplicity and innocence of character which
formerly distinguished them. The profligate habits of the settlers of
all nations among them, and of the numerous foreign sailors with whom
they constantly associate, have most prejudicially affected their
morals. Fraud, theft, and burglary, never heard of in Tameamea's time,
are now frequent. Murder implies a degree of wickedness to which they
have not yet attained; but a circumstance that occurred shortly before
our arrival, may perhaps become an example even for this worst of
crimes. The crew of an English whaler, in which much drinking had been
permitted, mutinied, and the Captain received a blow on the head, which,
though it did not destroy life, produced insanity; nor could all the
efforts of our physician wholly restore his reason. He had indeed lucid
intervals, during which he became reconciled to his crew, and at length
sailed for England; but I have reason to believe the vessel never
reached its destination.
One very unpleasant consequence has attended progressive civilization in
Hanaruro:--painted signs, that the means of intoxication might be
purchased within, hang from many of the houses: their keepers are
runaway sailors, who, to increase their own profit, naturally have
recourse to every means that may tempt the people to excess; and these
liquor-shops accordingly enjoy a constant overflow of visitors. Others
are fitted up in a superior style, for the exclusive accommodation of
Yeris and ships' officers, admission being refused to Kanackas and
sailors. Carousing is here also the order of the day, but billiards and
whist form part of the entertainments; the latter game especially is a
great favourite with the Wahuaners, who play it well. Whist parties may
be seen every where seated on the ground, in the streets or in open
fields, among whom large sums of money and valuable goods are at stake.
The players are always surrounded by spectators, who pronounce their
opinions very volubly at the close of every game. The parties themselves
are extremely animated, and the affair seldom terminates without a
quarrel. Many other games are also in favour; and through the prevalence
of a custom which cannot be observed without regret, this once
industrious and flourishing people are rapidly acquiring confirmed
habits of idleness and dissipation. A great part of the well cultivated
tarro-fields, which formerly surrounded Hanaruro, now lie waste. On the
great market-place, horse and foot races are proceeding all day long,
and give occasion to extensive gambling. The Wahuaners have as great a
passion for horse-racing, as the Malays for cock-fighting, and without
hesitation venture their whole stock of wealth on a race. The purchase
of a horse is, indeed, the great object of their ambition; and little
attention having hitherto been directed to the breeding of these
animals, they are imported from California, at an expense of from two to
three, or even five hundred piastres; so that many a Wahuaner is obliged
to hoard his whole earnings for years together, to raise the means of
indulging in this luxury. In these races the horse is not saddled, and a
string supplies the place of a bit; the rider is usually quite naked,
but very skilful in the management even of the wildest horse; but, as
the treatment is injudicious, they are soon worn out.
Large sums are also staked at the _ship-games_, as they are called, in
which the islanders display their seaman-like tastes. The players are
usually clever ship-builders. They build pretty little vessels, in
conformity with the rules of art, and, by their good management of the
keel, make them good sailers; they rig them completely, and decorate
them with flags and streamers. Then assembling on the banks of some
large pond, the owners spread the sails, make the helm fast, and launch
the little fleet. The ship which is best built and rigged, first gains
the opposite shore, and wins the prize. The spectators take great
interest in the game, and a loud shout announces the victory. The
children also, in imitation of their fathers, make little ships, and
have sailing-matches on the smaller pieces of water.
From the partiality of the Sandwich Islanders for a sea-life, and from
their geographical situation, it is probable that, in time, they will
become powerful at sea. Tameamea left to his successor above a dozen
good ships, all manned with natives. They obtain excellent nautical
educations on board the United States' vessels trading between America
and Canton; and the Americans, who are equal to the English as seamen,
bear witness to the abilities of the islanders.
Luxury has made great advances in Wahu. Even among the lowest class of
the people, some article of European clothing is universal. The females
especially set their hearts upon the most fashionable mode of dress:
whatever the Queen wears is their model, which they imitate to the
utmost of their power. The men are importuned to gratify this feminine
vanity; and if their means will not enable them to do so fairly, they
will often have recourse to fraud. The love of foreign wares, and
especially of such as serve for dress and ornament, is by far the most
fertile source of crime. The shopkeepers are emulous to make their
assortment of goods as attractive as possible, and sometimes allow
their customers credit, in which case they never fail to charge double,
though their profits are at all times enormous. I have myself seen young
girls paying two Spanish dollars for a string of common glass-beads
which would scarcely reach round the throat. The tradespeople practise
every species of deception with impunity, for the laws are not yet
sufficiently civilized to meet offences of this description; which
therefore inflict a double injury on their dupe, by robbing him of his
property, and affording him an example of successful fraud, which he
will generally at least endeavour to imitate. On Sunday, the inhabitants
of Wahu make their appearance at church in full dress to be admired; and
if the spectacle on these occasions is not so thoroughly laughable as at
O Tahaiti, it is certainly sufficiently comic.
The domestic utensils, formerly in use here, have entirely disappeared
even from the poorest huts; and Chinese porcelain has superseded the
manufactures from the gourd or the cocoa-nut.
Fourteen days after our arrival, I received a message from Karemaku, who
was still at O Tuai. He assured me that he was rejoiced at my coming,
stated that he had sent orders to Chinau to supply my ship with the best
provisions, and added, that having happily concluded the expedition, he
should soon return to Hanaruro.
Meanwhile, we had no cause to complain of our situation: every thing was
to be had for money; and Nomahanna overwhelmed us with presents of fat
hogs and the finest fish, putting all the fishermen into requisition to
provide abundantly for our table. We had all reason to be grateful for
her attention and kindness, and are all therefore ready to maintain that
she is not only the cleverest and the most learned, but also the best
woman in Wahu, as indeed she is considered both by the natives and
settlers. But I can also bear testimony to another qualification, of
equal importance in her estimation--she has certainly the greatest
appetite that ever came under my observation. I usually visited her in
the morning, and was in the habit of finding her extended at full length
upon the floor, employed in inditing her letter to me, which appeared to
occasion her many a head-ache. Once, however, I called exactly at
dinner-time, and was shown into the eating-room. She was lying on fine
mats before a large looking-glass, stretched as usual on her prodigious
stomach: a number of Chinese porcelain dishes, containing food of
various kinds, were ranged in a semicircle before her, and the
attendants were busily employed in handing first one and then another to
her Majesty. She helped herself with her fingers from each in its turn,
and ate most voraciously, whilst two boys flapped away the flies with
large bunches of feathers. My appearance did not at all disturb her: she
greeted me with her mouth full, and graciously nodded her desire that I
should take my seat in a chair by her side, when I witnessed, I think,
the most extraordinary meal upon record. How much had passed the royal
mouth before my entrance, I will not undertake to affirm; but it took in
enough in my presence to have satisfied six men! Great as was my
admiration at the quantity of food thus consumed, the scene which
followed was calculated to increase it. Her appetite appearing satisfied
at length, the Queen drew her breath with difficulty two or three times,
then exclaimed, "I have eaten famously!" These were the first words her
important business had allowed her time to utter. By the assistance of
her attendants, she then turned upon her back, and made a sign with her
hand to a tall, strong fellow, who seemed well practised in his office;
he immediately sprang upon her body, and kneaded her as unmercifully
with his knees and fists as if she had been a trough of bread. This was
done to favour digestion; and her Majesty, after groaning a little at
this ungentle treatment, and taking a short time to recover herself,
ordered her royal person to be again turned on the stomach, and
recommenced her meal. This account, whatever appearance of exaggeration
it may bear, is literally true, as all my officers, and the other
gentlemen who accompanied me, will witness.
M. Preuss, who lived in the neighbourhood of the lady, frequently
witnessed similar meals, and maintains that Nomahanna and her fat hog
were the greatest curiosities in Wahu. The latter is in particular
favour with the Queen, who feeds him almost to death: he is black, and
of extraordinary size and fatness: two Kanackas are appointed to attend
him, and he can hardly move without their assistance.
Nomahanna is vain of her tremendous appetite. She considers most people
too thin, and recommends inaction as an accelerator of her admired
_embonpoint_--so various are the notions of beauty. On the Sandwich
Islands, a female figure a fathom long, and of immeasurable
circumference, is charming; whilst the European lady laces tightly, and
sometimes drinks vinegar, in order to touch our hearts by her slender
and delicate symmetry.
One of our officers obtained the Queen's permission to take her
portrait. The limner's art is still almost a novelty here; and many
persons of rank solicited permission to witness the operation. With the
greatest attention, they watched every stroke of the outline, and loudly
expressed their admiration as each feature appeared upon the paper. The
nose was no sooner traced, than they exclaimed--"Now Nomahanna can
smell!" When the eyes were finished--"Now she can see!" They expressed
especial satisfaction at the sight of the mouth, because it would enable
her to eat; and they seemed to have some apprehension that she might
suffer from hunger. At this point, Nomahanna became so much interested,
that she requested to see the picture also: she thought the mouth much
too small, and begged that it might be enlarged. The portrait, however,
when finished, did not please her; and she remarked rather peevishly--"I
am surely much handsomer than that!"
On the 17th of January, Karemaku arrived with a squadron of two and
three-masted ships, and many soldiers, before the harbour of Hanaruro,
after having terminated the war at O Tuai quite to his satisfaction. The
fleet being unable to enter the harbour, on account of a contrary wind,
was obliged to cast anchor outside. I immediately sent off an officer
with my shallop, to convey to the King's deputy my congratulations on
his arrival; he and his young wife (his wife, of whom I spoke in my
former voyage, was since dead,) returned in the shallop, and came on
board my ship. I fired a salute as he approached, which pleased him
much, as he said this compliment from a Russian ship of war would tend
to remove from the minds of his countrymen their injurious suspicions
of the intentions of Russia.
Karemaku seemed sincerely glad to see me again, and, after a most
cordial embrace, presented his young and pretty wife to me. He minutely
examined all parts of the ship, expressed his approbation of much that
was new to him, and at length exclaimed--"How wide a difference there
still is between this ship and ours!--would that they could be made to
resemble it! O, Tameamea, thou wast taken from us too soon!" In my
cabin, he spoke of the death of his royal friend in terms which Marini
declared it impossible to translate, as no other language would express
such depth of thought united with such ardent feeling. I rather
apprehend that Marini, who is not a man of much education, was not
competent to give effect to powerful emotion in any language: but the
missionaries also declare that there is considerable difficulty in
translating from the O Wahi language, which is particularly adapted to
poetry.
Karemaku touched also on the change that had taken place in the religion
of the country.--"Our present belief," said he, "is preferable to that
which it has supplanted; but the inhabitants of the mountains cannot
understand its superiority; and strong measures are necessary to prevent
their relapsing into idolatry. The King should not have so suddenly
annihilated all that they held sacred. As a first consequence, he has
been obliged to seek for safety in a foreign country. How all will end,
I cannot foresee; but I look forward with fear. The people are attached
to me, and I have influence over them; but my health declines, and the
Government, which I have scarcely been able to keep together, will
probably not survive me. Blood will be spilt, and anarchy will prevail.
Already the island of O Tuai has revolted, even during my life." These
fears are not without foundation: they are shared by the natives and the
foreign settlers; and many of the Yeris seem persuaded that the monarchy
will be dismembered on Karemaku's death. Some have already fixed upon
the districts they mean to appropriate, and do not even take any pains
to conceal their intentions. Yet has the aged and infirm Karemaku
hitherto maintained order among these turbulent spirits, permitting no
one to disturb the general tranquillity with impunity.
During my former visit here, the painter Choris, who made the voyage
with me, and was afterwards murdered in Mexico, took an excellent
likeness of Tameamea. I now presented to the venerable Karemaku a
copper-plate engraving from this picture. The joy with which he received
it was really affecting; he gazed on the picture with delight, and
kissed it several times, while the tears rolled down his cheeks. On
taking leave, he begged that he might have the medical assistance from
our physician, as he had been long indisposed. He pressed my hand,
saying, "I too am a Christian, and can read and write." That a warrior,
and a statesman, should pride himself on such advantages as these above
all others, proves the estimation in which they are held. The Sandwich
Islanders know that these are the ties which connect them with civilized
nations.