fit for pasture, for the space of some three miles, hauing but little
wood, and that Oke like stands left in our pastures in England, good
and great, fit timber for any vse. Some small Birch, Hazle and Brake,
which might in small time with few men be cleansed and made good
arable land: but as it now is will feed cattell of all kindes with
fodder enough for Summer and Winter. The soile is blacke, bearing
sundry hearbs, grasse, and strawberries bigger than ours in England.
In many places are lowe Thicks like our Copisses of small yoong wood.
And surely it did all resemble a stately Parke, wherein appeare some
old trees with high withered tops, and other flourishing with liuing
greene boughs. Vpon the hilles grow notable high timber trees, masts
for ships of 400 tun: and at the bottome of euery hill, a little run
of fresh water; but the furthest and last we passed, ranne with a
great streame able to driue a mill.
We might see in some places where fallow Deere and Hares had beene,
and by the rooting of ground we supposed wilde Hogs had ranged there,
but we could descrie no beast, because our noise still chased them
from vs.
We were no sooner come aboord our light-horseman, returning towards
our ship, but we espied a Canoa comming from the further part of
the Cod of the riuer Eastward, which hasted to vs; wherein, with
two others, was he who refused to stay for a pawne: and his comming
was very earnestly importing to haue one of our men to go lie on
shore with their Bashabes (who was there on shore, as they signed)
and then the next morning he would come to our ship with many
Furres and Tabacco. This we perceiued to be only a meere deuice to
get possession of any of our men, to ransome all those which we
had taken, which their naturall policy could not so shadow, but we
did easily discouer and preuent. These meanes were by this Saluage
practised, because we had one of his kinsemen prisoner, as we judged
by his most kinde vsage of him being aboord vs together.
Thursday, the 13 of June, by two a clocke in the morning (because
our Captaine would take the helpe and aduantage of the tide) in the
light-horseman with our Company well prouided and furnished with
armour and shot both to defend and offend; we went from our ship
vp to that part of the riuer which trended Westward into the maine,
to search that: ♦_Thomaston_♦ and we carried with vs a Crosse, to
erect at that point, which (because it was not daylight) we left on
the shore vntill our returne backe; when we set it vp in maner as
the former. For this (by the way) we diligently obserued, that in no
place, either about the Ilands, or vp in the maine, or alongst the
riuer, we could discerne any token or signe, that euer any Christian
had beene before; of which either by cutting wood, digging for
water, or setting vp Crosses (a thing neuer omitted by any Christian
trauellers) we should haue perceiued some mention left.
But to returne to our riuer, further vp into which we then rowed
by estimation twenty miles, the beauty and goodnesse whereof I can
not by relation sufficiently demonstrate. That which I can say in
generall is this: What profit or pleasure soeuer is described and
truly verified in the former part of the riuer, is wholly doubled
in this; for the bredth and depth is such, that any ship drawing 17
or 18 foot water, might haue passed as farre as we went with our
light-horsman, and by all our mens judgement much further, because we
left it in so good depth and bredth; which is so much the more to be
esteemed of greater woorth, by how much it trendeth further vp into
the maine: for from the place of our ships riding in the Harbour at
the entrance into the Sound, to the furthest part we were in this
riuer, by our estimation was not much lesse than threescore miles.
From ech banke of this riuer are diuers branching streames into the
maine, wherby is affoorded an vnspeakable profit by the conueniency
of transportation from place to place, which in some countries is
both chargeable; and not so fit, by cariages on waine, or horse backe.
Heere we saw great store of fish, some great, leaping aboue water,
which we judged to be Salmons. All along is an excellent mould of
ground. The wood in most places, especially on the East side, very
thinne, chiefly oke and some small young birch, bordering low vpon
the riuer; all fit for medow and pasture ground: and in that space we
went, we had on both sides the riuer many plaine plots of medow, some
of three or foure acres, some of eight or nine: so as we judged in
the whole to be betweene thirty and forty acres of good grasse, and
where the armes run out into the Maine, there likewise went a space
on both sides of cleere grasse, how far we know not, in many places
we might see paths made to come downe to the watering.
The excellencie of this part of the Riuer, for his good breadth,
depth, and fertile bordering ground, did so ravish vs all with
variety of pleasantnesse, as we could not tell what to commend, but
only admired; some compared it to the Riuer Seuerne, (but in a higher
degree) and we all concluded (as I verily thinke we might rightly)
that we should neuer see the like Riuer in every degree equall,
vntill it pleased God we beheld the same againe. For the farther
we went, the more pleasing it was to euery man, alluring vs still
with expectation of better, so as our men, although they had with
great labour rowed long and eat nothing (for we carried with vs no
victuall, but a little cheese and bread) yet they were so refreshed
with the pleasant beholding thereof, and so loath to forsake it, as
some of them affirmed, they would haue continued willingly with that
onely fare and labour 2 daies; but the tide not suffering vs to make
any longer stay (because we were to come backe with the tide) and our
Captaine better knowing what was fit then we, and better what they in
labour were able to endure, being verie loath to make any desperate
hazard, where so little necessitie required, thought it best to make
returne, because whither we had discouered was sufficient to conceiue
that the Riuer ran very far into the land. For we passed six or seuen
miles, altogether fresh water (whereof we all dranke) forced vp by
the flowing of the Salt: which after a great while eb, where we left
it, by breadth of channell and depth of water was likely to run by
estimation of our whole company an unknowen way farther: the search
whereof our Captaine hath left till his returne, if it shall so
please God to dispose of him and vs.
For we hauing now by the direction of the omnipotent disposer of all
good intents (far beyond the period of our hopes) fallen with so bold
a coast, found so excellent and secure harbour, for as many ships as
any nation professing Christ is able to set forth to Sea, discouered
a Riuer, which the All-creating God, with his most liberall hand,
hath made aboue report notable with his foresaid blessings, bordered
with a land, whose pleasant fertility bewraieth it selfe to be the
garden of nature, wherin she only intended to delight hir selfe,
hauing hitherto obscured it to any, except to a purblind generation,
whose vnderstanding it hath pleased God so to darken, as they can
neither discerne, vse, or rightly esteeme the vnualuable riches
in middest whereof they live sensually content with the barke and
outward rinds, as neither knowing the sweetnes of the inward marrow,
nor acknowledging the Deity of the Almighty giuer: hauing I say
thus far proceeded, and hauing some of the inhabitant nation (of
best vnderstanding we saw among them) who (learning our language)
may be able to giue vs further instruction, concerning all the
premised particulars, as also of their gouernours, and gouernment,
situation of townes, and what else shall be conuenient, which by no
meanes otherwise we could by any obseruation of our selues learne
in a long time: our Captaine now wholy intended his prouision for
speedy returne. For although the time of yeere and our victuall were
not so spent, but we could haue made a longer voyage, in searching
farther and trading for very good commodities, yet as they might
haue beene much profitable, so (our company being small) much more
preiudiciall to the whole state of our voyage, which we were most
regardfull now not to hazard. For we supposing not a little present
priuate profit, but a publique good, and true zeale of promulgating
Gods holy Church, by planting Christianity, to be the sole intent of
the Honourable setters foorth of this discouery; thought it generally
most expedient, by our speedy returne, to giue the longer space of
time to make prouision for so weighty an enterprise.
Friday, the 14 day of June, early by foure a clocke in the morning,
with the tide, our two boats, and a little helpe of the winde, we
rowed downe to the riuers mouth and there came to an anker about
eleuen a clocke. Afterward our Captaine in the light horseman
searched the sounding all about the mouth and comming to the Riuer,
for his certaine instruction of a perfect description.
The next day, being Saturday, we wayed anker, and with a briese from
the land, we sailed vp to our watering place, and there stopped, went
on shore and filled all our empty caske with fresh water.
Our Captaine vpon the Rocke in the middest of the harbour obserued
the height, latitude, and variation exactly vpon his instruments.
1 Astrolabe.
2 Semisphere.
3 Ringe instrument.
4 Crosse staffe.
5 And an excellent compasse made for the variation.
The certainty whereof, together with the particularities of euery
depth and sounding, as well at our falling with the land, as in the
discouery, and at our departure from the coast; I refer to his owne
relation in the Map of his Geographicall description, which for the
benefit of others he intendeth most exactly to publish.
The temperature of the Climate (albeit a very important matter) I
had almost passed without mentioning, because it affoorded to vs no
great alteration from our disposition in England; somewhat hotter
vp into the Maine, because it lieth open to the South; the aire so
wholesome, as I suppose not any of vs found our selues at any time
more healthfull, more able to labour, nor with better stomacks to
such good fare, as we partly brought, and partly found.
Sunday, the 16 of June, the winde being faire, and because we had set
out of England vpon a Sunday, made the Ilands vpon a Sunday, and as
we doubt not (by Gods appointment) happily fell into our harbour vpon
a Sunday; so now (beseeching him still with like prosperity to blesse
our returne into England our country, and from thence with his good
will and pleasure to hasten our next arriuall there) we waied Anker
and quit the Land vpon a Sunday.
Tuesday, the 18 day, being not run aboue 30 leagues from land, and
our Captaine for his certaine knowledge how to fall with the coast,
hauing sounded euery watch, and from 40 fathoms had come into good
deeping, to 70, and so to an hundred: this day the weather being
faire, after the foure a clocke watch, when we supposed not to
haue found ground so farre from land, and before sounded in aboue
100 fathoms, we had ground in 24 fathomes. ♦_The Fishing Banks_♦
Wherefore our sailes being downe, Thomas King boatswaine, presently
cast out a hooke, and before he judged it at ground, was fished and
haled vp an exceeding great and well fed Cod: then there were cast
out 3 or 4 more, and the fish was so plentifull and so great, as when
our Captaine would haue set saile, we all desired him to suffer them
to take fish a while, because we were so delighted to see them catch
so great fish, so fast as the hooke came down: some with playing
with the hooke they tooke by the backe, and one of the Mates with two
hookes at a lead at fiue draughts together haled vp tenne fishes; all
were generally very great, some they measured to be fiue foot long,
and three foot about.
This caused our Captaine not to maruell at the shoulding, for he
perceiued it was a fish banke, which (for our farewell from the land)
it pleased God in continuance of his blessings to giue vs knowledge
of: the abundant profit whereof should be alone sufficient cause
to draw men againe, if there were no other good both in present
certaine, and in hope probable to be discouered. To amplifie this
with words, were to adde light to the Sunne: for euery one in the
shippe could easily account this present commodity; much more those
of judgement, which knew what belonged to fishing, would warrant (by
the helpe of God) in a short voyage with few good fishers to make
a more profitable returne from hence than from Newfoundland: the
fish being so much greater, better fed, and abundant with traine;
♦_Cod-liver oil_♦ of which some they desired, and did bring into
England to bestow among their friends, and to testifie the true
report.
After, we kept our course directly for England & with ordinary winds,
and sometime calmes, vpon Sunday the 14 of July about sixe a clocke
at night, we were come into sounding in our channell, but with darke
weather and contrary winds, we were constrained to beat vp and downe
till Tuesday the 16 of July, when by fiue a clocke in the morning we
made Sylly; from whence, hindered with calmes and small winds, vpon
Thursday the 18 of July about foure a clocke after noone, we came
into Dartmouth: which Hauen happily (with Gods gracious assistance)
we made our last and first Harbour in England.
Further, I haue thought fit here to adde some things worthy to be
regarded, which we haue obserued from the Saluages since we tooke
them.
First, although at the time when we surprised them, they made their
best resistance, not knowing our purpose, nor what we were, nor how
we meant to vse them; yet after perceiuing by their kinde vsage we
intended them no harme, they haue neuer since seemed discontented
with vs, but very tractable, louing, & willing by their best meanes
to satisfie vs in any thing we demand of them, by words or signes for
their vnderstanding: neither haue they at any time beene at the least
discord among themselues; insomuch as we haue not seene them angry
but merry; and so kinde, as if you giue any thing to one of them, he
will distribute part to euery one of the rest.
We haue brought them to vnderstand some English, and we vnderstand
much of their language; so as we are able to aske them many things.
And this we haue obserued, that if we shew them any thing, and aske
them if they haue it in their countrey, they will tell you if they
haue it, and the vse of it, the difference from ours in bignesse,
colour, or forme; but if they haue it not, be it a thing neuer so
precious, they wil denie the knowledge of it.
They haue names for many starres, which they will shew in the
firmament.
They shew great reuerence to their King, and are in great subiection
to their Gouernours: and they will shew a great respect to any we
tell them are our Commanders.
They shew the maner how they make bread of their Indian wheat,
and how they make butter and cheese of the milke they haue of the
Rain-Deere and Fallo-Deere, which they haue tame as we haue Cowes.
They haue excellent colours. And hauing seene our Indico, they make
shew of it, or of some other like thing which maketh as good a blew.
One especiall thing is their maner of killing the Whale, which they
call Powdawe; and will describe his forme; how he bloweth vp the
water; and that he is 12 fathoms long; and that they go in company
of their King with a multitude of their boats, and strike him with
a bone made in fashion of a harping iron fastened to a rope, which
they make great and strong of the barke of trees, which they veare
out after him; then all their boats come about him, and as he riseth
aboue water, with their arrowes they shoot him to death; when they
haue killed him & dragged him to shore, they call all their chiefe
lords together, & sing a song of joy: and those chiefe lords, whom
they call Sagamos, divide the spoile, and giue to euery man a share,
which pieces so distributed they hang vp about their houses for
prouision: and when they boile them, they blow off the fat, and put
to their peaze, maiz, and other pulse, which they eat.
[Illustration: (Decorative separator)]
A briefe Note of what profits we saw the Countrey yeeld in the
small time of our stay there.
_Trees._
Oke of an excellent graine, strait, and great timber.
Elme.
Beech.
Birch, very tall & great; of whose barke they make their Canoas.
Wich-Hazell.
Hazell.
Alder.
Cherry-tree.
Ash.
Maple.
Yew.
Spruce.
Aspe.
Firre.
Many fruit trees, which we knew not.
_Fowles._
Eagles.
Hernshawes.
Cranes.
Ducks great.
Geese.
Swannes.
Penguins.
Crowes.
Sharks.
Rauens.
Mewes.
Turtle-doues.
Many birds of sundrie colours.
Many other fowls in flocks, vnknown.
_Beasts._
Raine-Deere.
Stagges.
Fallow-Deere.
Beares.
Wolues.
Beauer.
Otter.
Hare.
Cony.
Hedge-Hoggs.
Polcats.
Wilde great Cats.
Dogges: some like Wolues, some like Spaniels.
_Fishes._
Whales.
Seales.
Cod very great.
Haddocke great.
Herring great.
Plaise.
Thornebacke.
Rockefish.
Lobstar great.
Crabs.
Muscels great, with pearles in them.
Cockles.
Wilks.
Cunner fish.
Lumps.
Whiting.
Soales.
Tortoises.
Oisters.
_Frvits, Plants, and Herbs._
Tabacco, excellent sweet and strong.
Wild-Vines.
Strawberries. }
Raspberries. }
Gooseberries. } abundance
Hurtleberries. }
Currant trees. }
Rose-bushes.
Peaze.
Ground-nuts.
Angelica, a most souerainge herb.
An hearbe that spreadeth the ground, & smelleth
like Sweet Marioram, great plenty.
Very good Dies, which appeare by their painting;
which they carrie with them in bladders.
The names of the fiue Saluages which we brought home into England,
which are all yet aliue, are these.
1. Tahánedo, a Sagamo or Commander. ♦_or Nahanada_♦
2. Amóret. }
3. Skicowáros } Gentlemen. ♦_or Skidwares_♦
4. Maneddo }
5. Saffacomoit, a seruant.
George Popham
&
Ralegh Gilbert
1607
KENEBECK RIVER
THE POPHAM _Colony at Sagadahock, on the western side of the
entrance to the Kenebeck river, was established by the members of
the first Virginia Company, which was chartered by King James in
1606, who lived at Plymouth and elsewhere in the west of England.
The London members of the Company made their settlement at
Jamestown. The leader of the Plymouth partners was Sir Ferdinando
Gorges, with whom were associated members of the Popham and Gilbert
families. They equipped two exploring expeditions in the autumn of
1606, one of them being under the command of Martin Pring, whose
account of his voyage of 1603 is printed in this volume. Pring’s
report determined the Plymouth partners to attempt a settlement on
the Maine coast. Two vessels were fitted out and George Popham, a
nephew of the Chief Justice, Sir John Popham, and Ralegh Gilbert, a
son of Sir Humphrey, were placed in charge of the expedition._
_The narrative of the voyage was written by one of the officers,
probably the navigator or pilot of Gilbert’s vessel, the “Mary and
John,” whose name may have been James Davies. This account, which
is preserved in the Library of Lambeth Palace, London, was printed
in the fourth volume of the Gorges Society publications, Portland,
1892, with notes by the Rev. Henry O. Thayer. That Society, through
Mr. H. W. Bryant of Portland, has kindly loaned the facsimiles of
the drawings which illustrate the manuscript, for reproduction in
this volume._
[Illustration: (Decorative banner)]
THE RELATION of a Voyage unto New England. Began from the _Lizard_,
y^e first of June 1607, by Captain POPHAM in y^e ship y^e Gift, &
Captain GILBERT in y^e Mary & John.
Written by * * * * * * & found amongst y^e Papers of y^e truly
Worshipfull: Sr. FERDINANDO GORGES, Kt. by me WILLIAM GRIFFITH.
DEPARTED from the Lyzard the firste daye of June Ano Domi 1607,
♦_1607 June_♦ beinge Mundaye about 6 of the Cloke in the afternoon
and ytt bore of me then North-este and by North eyght Leags of.
* * * * *
The firste Daye of Jully beinge Wesdaye wee depted from the Illand of
flowers ♦_July Azores_♦ beinge ten Leags South weste from ytt.
From hence we allwayes kept our Course to the Westward as much as
wind & weather woold permytt untill the 27th daye of Jully duringe
which time wee often times Sounded but could never fynd grounde. this
27th early in the mornynge we Sounded & had ground but 18 fetham
beinge then in the Lattitud of 43 degrees & ⅔ hear wee fysht three
howers & tooke near to hundred of Cods very great & large fyshe
bigger & larger fyshe then that which coms from the bancke of the New
Found Land··hear wee myght have lodden our shipe in Lesse time then a
moneth.
From hence the Wynd beinge att South west wee sett our Saills & stood
by the wind west nor west towards the Land allwayes Soundinge for our
better knowledg as we ran towarde the main Land from this bancke.
From this bancke ♦_Sable Bank_♦ we kept our Course west nor west 36
Leags which ys from the 27th of July untill the 30th of July in which
tyme we ran 36 L as ys beffore sayed & then we Saw the Land about 10
of the Clok in the mornynge bearinge norweste from us About 10 Leags
& then we Sounded & had a hundred fethams blacke oze hear as we Cam
in towards the Land from this bancke we still found deepe watter. the
deepest within the bancke ys 160 fethams & in 100 fetham you shall
See the Land yf ytt be Clear weather after you passe the bancke the
ground ys still black oze untill yo Com near the shore··this daye wee
stood in for the Land but Could nott recover ytt beffor the night
tooke us so we stood a Lyttell from ytt & thear strok a hull untill
the next daye beinge the Laste of July hear Lyeinge at hull we tooke
great stor of cod fyshes the bigeste & largest that I ever Saw or any
man in our ship. this daye beinge the Last of July about 3 of the
Clok in the after noon we recouered the shor & cam to an anker under
an Illand ♦_Lunenburg or La Heve Nova Scotia_♦ for all this Cost ys
full of Illands & broken Land but very Sound & good for shipinge to
go by them the watter deepe. 18 & 20 fetham hard abord them.
This Illand standeth in the lattitud of 44 d & ½ & hear we had
nott ben att an anker past to howers beffore we espyed a bisken
♦_Biscayan_♦ shallop Cominge towards us havinge in her eyght
Sallvages & a Lyttell salvage boye··they cam near unto us & spoke
unto us in thear Language. & we makinge Seignes to them that they
should com abord of us showinge unto them knyues glasses beads &
throwinge into thear bott Som bisket but for all this they wold nott
com abord of us but makinge show to go from us. we suffered them. So
when they wear a Lyttell from us and Seeinge we proffered them no
wronge of thear owne accord retorned & cam abord of us & three of
them stayed all that nyght with us the rest departed in the shallope
to the shore makinge Seignes unto us that they wold retorn unto us
aggain the next daye.
The next daye the Sam Salvages with three Salvage wemen beinge the
fryst daye of Auguste ♦_August_♦ retorned unto us bringinge with them
Som feow skines of bever in an other bisken shallop & propheringe
thear skines to trook with us but they demanded ouer muche for
them and we Seemed to make Lyght of them So then the other three
which had stayed with us all nyght went into the shallop & So they
departed··ytt Seemeth that the french hath trad with them for they
use many french words the Cheeff Comander of these parts ys called
Messamott & the ryver or harbor ys called emannett we take these
peopell to be the tarentyns & these peopell as we have Learned sence
do make wars with Sasanoa the Cheeffe Comander to the westward wheare
we have planted & this Somer they kild his Sonne··So the Salvages
departed from us & cam no mor unto us··After they wear departed from
us we hoyssed out our bot whearin my Selffe was with 12 others &
rowed to the shore and landed on this Illand that we rod under the
which we found to be a gallant Illand full of heigh & myghty trees of
Sundry Sorts··hear we allso found aboundance of gusberyes strawberyes
rasberyes & whorts So we retorned & Cam abord.
Sondaye beinge the second of Auguste after dyner our bott went to
the shore again to fille freshe watter whear after they had filled
thear watter thear cam fower Salvages unto them havinge thear bowes
& arowes in thear hands makinge show unto them to have them Com to
the shore but our Saillers havinge filled thear watter wold nott go
to the shore unto them but retorned & cam abord beinge about 5 of
the Clock in the afternoon··So the bott went presently from the ship
unto a point of an Illand & thear att Lo watter in on hower kild near
.50. great Lopsters··you shall See them whear they ly in shold Watter
nott past a yeard deep & with a great hooke mad faste to a staffe you
shall hitch them up thear ar great store of them you may near Lad a
Ship with them. & they are of greatt bignesse··I have nott Seen the
Lyke in Ingland··So the bott retorned abord & wee toke our bott in
& about myd nyght the wynd cam faier att northest we Sett Saill &
departed from thence keepinge our Course South west for So the Cost
Lyeth.
Mundaye being the third of Auguste in the morninge we wear faier by
the shore and So Sailled alongste the Coste··we Saw many Illands all
alonge the Cost & great Sounds, goinge betwyxt them, but We could
make prooffe of non for want of a ♦_Pinnace_♦ penyshe··hear we found
fyshe still all alonge the Cost as we Sailed.