[Illustration: FRAME CABINS AND BEACH HOUSES]
Frame-type cabins present no structural problems that are unfamiliar to
anyone who knows the fundamentals of ordinary frame house construction.
The essential details of building almost any sort of simple frame house
are the same, the main difference being in your choice of exterior
finish.
If your vacation home is a beach house, you may even find the regular
type of stucco finish appropriate for your particular location. Or you
may want to combine stucco finish with wood siding or with board and
batten. The main objective is to keep the structure in harmony with its
surroundings.
This is particularly true of simple cabins in the mountains. A brick
bungalow, for example, would be splendid for warmth and strength for a
hunting lodge, but it would be wholly out of place in the forest, as
would ordinary concrete finish, stucco, or certain types of frame
houses.
There are a number of western lumber companies that specialize in
manufacturing novel types of siding designed primarily for cabins and
other buildings with a forest background. Some of these cost only a
little more than ordinary lumber and make a very attractive cabin.
Among the novelty sidings, you may buy rounded siding that gives the
effect of smoothly finished half-logs, or “hewn” timbers that look
exactly like hand-hewn logs. You can even get special end pieces which,
when carefully attached, give the effect of projecting log ends. As you
can see from the illustrations, this novelty siding can be applied by
anyone who knows how to use a set of carpenter’s tools.
[Illustration: This is the proper way to apply half-round siding to
the studs. The log ends add a very realistic touch.]
If you are planning to build a frame cottage or summer home, the field
of design is, of course, limited largely by the amount of money you have
to spend. If you are not an old hand at carpentering it would be well to
get the assistance of a builder or a lumber company in selecting your
materials. A man with a knowledge of building can keep you from making
mistakes that might not be discovered until the house was built.
One of the easiest and most effective cabins is built with a “board and
batten” exterior. This consists of broad planks ... their width is a
matter of your own judgment ... applied either horizontally or
vertically. Between each pair of planks runs a strip of batten which may
be nailed flat over the seam or, if you get the specially milled
battens, there is a groove into which the wide boards fit. A combination
of board and batten and stone construction makes an exceptionally
attractive exterior if you use some artistic judgment in combining the
two.
[Illustration: This is the effect obtained by use of hewn siding. It
is applied like any other lumber, with extra end pieces to give
illusion of a real log cabin.]
If you are planning to use the house in the cold months, it is well to
insulate the walls at least with heavy building paper. In very cold
climates it is best to finish the walls on both the exterior and the
interior, filling the spaces between the studs with one of the
commercial insulating “wools,” made of wood fibre or asbestos. If you
must save money, you can buy sawdust at the local mill and pack it in.
Hand-split shakes also make an attractive cabin finish. The rough
pioneer effect of the crude shakes is quite in keeping with the
wilderness atmosphere. These are applied in much the same manner as
ordinary shingles.
[Illustration: Shakes, either hand-split or sawed, should be laid in
a definite pattern.]
RANDOM WIDTHS
SAW-TOOTHED
ANGLE BUTTS
[Illustration: Here is an example of charming effect obtained by
using horizontal and vertical board and batten, combined with
stone.]
[Illustration: Any of the methods shown here is a satisfactory way
to fit the corners when imitation log siding is used.]
If you undertake the construction of a frame cabin without the
assistance of an experienced carpenter or builder, you should keep in
mind the minimum requirements set up by the Forest Service as standard
specifications for cabins to be built in deep snow country:
All girders should be not less than 4×4 material spaced not more than
7 feet on centers.
All main posts supporting building should be not less than 4×4, spaced
not more than 7 feet apart in any direction and should rest on rock or
concrete base; this applies to open porches also.
All floor joists (including those under open porches) should be not
less than 2×6 material, spaced not over 2 feet on center.
Studding in sidewalls, where siding runs vertically, should be spaced
not more than 6 feet on center and should be not less than 2×4
material. At least one 2×4 should be placed around the building,
horizontally, between the floor plate and ceiling plate, and the side
boards should be securely nailed to this horizontal ribbon as well as
the top and bottom plates.
On buildings where siding runs horizontally, studding should be placed
not over 2 feet on center on outside walls and be not less than 2×4
material.
Double headers and proper bridging should be installed over all
openings in outside walls. This is not necessary in partitions.
Rafters should be spaced not more than 2 feet on center and should be
not less than 2×4 material on all spans up to 16 feet. All spans of
more than 16 feet should use rafters of not less than 2×6 material and
be spaced not more than 2 feet on center. Rafters and other members of
the roof frame should be of selected, straight-grain lumber.
All ceiling joists should be good, straight-grained sticks not less
than 2×4 material and spaced not more than 2 feet on center. Nail them
securely to both rafters and plate. All buildings with a gable roof
should contain ceiling joists. All spans of more than 14 feet should
have collar beams to support the rafters.