Start the first course of stones about three inches from the board form
and fill in the space between with mortar. The correct mixture for this
mortar is six parts of clean sand to one part of cement. After a little
experimentation you will find the correct consistency, but be sure that
it is well mixed. As one expert says, “Mix the stuff with your hoe until
your back is broken and then mix it some more.” Wet the stones
thoroughly before setting in the mortar.
The end of each stone should be firmly bedded in the mortar, and as soon
as several courses of rock have been laid, tamp the mortar well down.
Small pieces of rock may be pushed into the mortar if you wish to make
it go farther.
When you build your wooden form, of course you put up the door and
window frames. They can’t be cut out of the walls afterward as with a
log cabin. Drive numerous long spikes into the outer surfaces of these
frames. This gives you something to “tie” to when you reach that height
with your masonry.
Building a stone house is slow work, and since you’ll have to leave your
work at times, remember that all mortar that has been laid the day
before must be thoroughly wet before fresh mortal is applied on top of
it. And the entire walls ought to be wet down at least twice daily for a
week or more after completion.
When you have reached the top course of stones, set in a row of threaded
iron bolts two feet apart and long enough to allow three inches of the
threaded end to stick up. On these you must bolt 2×4’s, so that you have
something to nail the rafters to.
[Illustration: Window and door frames are set into the masonry as it
proceeds, with long spikes protruding to “tie” them firmly.]
2″×6″ WINDOW FRAME
SPIKES TIE FRAME TO MASONRY
When the walls have set, remove the interior wooden forms and go over
the inside walls to fill up any air holes. These are not important
unless they are too large. The rest of the job is done just as in
finishing any other house. You’ll probably want to cover the interior
with some material, because concrete is pretty cold and might remind
someone of the time he was arrested for speeding.
The cost of a stone house depends on the amount of material you can find
lying around the neighborhood and the cost of labor. Some stone cabins,
with most of the labor hired, have been built for approximately $2.50
per square foot of floor space. This includes labor, materials,
built-ins, electrical wiring and fixtures, and plastered walls. If you
find it necessary to hire skilled stone masons or to transport your
material considerable distance, the cost will be higher. You can, of
course, lower it by doing a larger amount of the work yourself.
Remember that stone work is slow work, so allow yourself plenty of time.
The first course or so of stone will drop into place pretty fast, but
don’t forget that Rome was not built in a day—and Rome was built of
stone.
For making colored concrete, for floors, hearths, etc., a topping
containing the color is put on over the previously-poured base. This
topping consists of _five gallons_ of water per sack of cement, _one_
cubic foot of sand and 1½ cubic feet of coarse aggregate. You may use
factory-colored cement, or mix it on the job by passing the dry cement
and coloring matter through a screen with a ⅛-inch mesh until well
mixed.
An excellent treatment for colored concrete is to rub the surface
thoroughly with equal parts of paraffin oil and benzine. This closes the
pores and brings out the color uniformly.
In considering such permanent types of construction as stone, the great
advantage of concrete should not be overlooked. Walls of this material
are poured between wood, plywood or metal forms in the manner previously
described for foundation walls.
Perhaps you object because the finished structure would not be “in
keeping” with a woods atmosphere. But one method is possible whereby a
facing of natural stone backed by poured concrete combines the
advantages of concrete with a stone house “look.” This is called a Flagg
Masonry Wall after its originator, Ernest Flagg, New York architect. The
illustration shows the method of pouring such a wall.
For a beach house the smooth, modern lines of the concrete walls are
quite appropriate for the clean, clear atmosphere of a beach site.
Concrete is fireproof, termite proof, requires little or no maintenance,
and is not subject to decay. In a house that is often not in use, like a
beach or mountain retreat, the value of a material of these
characteristics is obvious.
[Illustration: This is a detailed plan of the Flagg masonry wall,
showing forms, concrete fill and outer covering of stonework.]
FURRING STRIPS
LATH & PLASTER, OR ONE OF THE PLASTERBOARDS, OR PLYWOOD
FORM LUMBER OR PLYWOOD
CONCRETE
STONE