We hear that the Bishop of Chilapa is held by Zapata for a big ransom.

As all the well-to-do families have either fled from that part of

the country or been robbed of all they had, the ransom may not be

paid. There is a threat to crucify him on Good Friday, if it is not

forthcoming, but I hardly think he is in danger, as such an act would

certainly be thought to bring a curse upon the people and the place.

This is the second time he has been made prisoner. He was rescued by

Federal soldiers only a few weeks ago.

_Monday Evening._

We had a pleasant luncheon at Chapultepec restaurant, on the

veranda--von Hintze, Kanya de Kanya, Stalewski, the Bonillas, Courts,

Strawbensie (the young naval officer up from the _Essex_, who is

supposed to be training the British colony volunteers), Lady C., von

Papen, and ourselves; de Bertier, the French military _attaché_,

did not materialize. They think, apropos of Torreon (“the key of the

_south_,” for the rebels; “the key of the _north_,” for the Federals),

that the Federals may have been obliged to evacuate it and are now

fighting to get it back. Any one seems able to take Torreon, and no one

seems able to hold it.

_Tuesday Evening._

At two o’clock Dr. Ryan left for the front, von Papen with him.

Ryan has learned to travel light, but von Papen took a lot of

impedimenta--eating-utensils, uniform, blanket, pungaree hat, etc. He

will drop his possessions, one by one, as--after Saltillo, which they

should reach to-morrow night--they may be on horseback, or afoot. I was

deeply touched to see Dr. Ryan go off. I made the sign of the cross on

his shoulder[13] and commended him to Heaven as we stood at the gate

under the brilliant sky. He is so pleased to be taking all those stores

with him--enough for two hundred and fifty or three hundred dressings,

not including the other materials.

I received calls all afternoon. At four the two handsome Garcia

Pimentel sisters came--Lola Riba and Rafaela Bernal. At five the

Japanese minister brought his wife for her first formal call. They are

cultivated people, with the quality that makes one feel they are used

to the best at home. I _made_ conversation till six, when Clarence Hay

saved my life. At seven, just as I had gone up-stairs, a Frenchman--a

banker--appeared. At eight I was too tired for dinner, which N. and I

ignored. The “doves of peace” are beginning to settle in the Embassy

dove-cote to-night--about a _ton_ of them already here.

_Wednesday Morning. April 8th._

A Federal officer, Colonel Arce, got in from Torreon last night. He

says that on Friday, the third, it was still in the hands of the

Federals. Chieftain Urbina, a notorious rebel, had been captured and

forced, with other Revolutionists, to parade the streets of Torreon,

between a detachment of Federal troops. Then he was summarily executed

in the presence of an immense crowd. The railway lines are open between

San Pedro and Saltillo, and on to Mexico City. Unless they are again

blown up, Dr. Ryan and von Papen will be able to get to San Pedro,

where Generals de Maure, Hidalgo, Corral (the one I saw off), are

stationed, with large reinforcements. We’ll take the report for what it

is worth. One thing we know: the carnage is going on.

The story just now is that General Velasco, the very competent Federal

in command of Torreon, voluntarily evacuated, took his army and his

field-guns to the hills above Torreon, with non-combatants and women

and children, cut the water-supply, and is now waiting orders from

Huerta to bombard the town. He, of course, has plenty of water where he

is; but Torreon dry must be a thing of horror. This story agrees with

a good deal we have been hearing. If true, it will really be a great

_coup_ on the part of the Federals.

_April 9th. Holy Thursday._

The churches are full to overflowing, these holy days. Men, women,

and children, of all strata of society, are faithful in the discharge

of their duties. In this city of peace, how contrasting the tales of

sacrilege in the rebel territory! Five priests were killed and three

held for ransom in Tamaulipas, last month; a convent was sacked and

burned and the nuns were outraged; a cathedral was looted, the rebels

getting off with the old Spanish gold and silver utensils. What kind

of adults will develop out of the children to whom the desecration

of churches and the outraging of women are ordinary sights; who, in

tender years, see the streets red with blood, and property arbitrarily

passing into the hands of those momentarily in power? The children

seem the pity of it, and it is a bitter fruit the next generation will

bear. Let him who can, take; and him who can, hold; is the device the

Constitutionalists really fly.

In the old days, before the Laws of Reform, there used to be the

most gorgeous religious processions; but even now, with all that

splendor in abeyance, there remains something that is unsuppressed and

unsuppressable. To-day the population has streamed in and out of the

churches and visited the repositories (with their blaze of light and

bankings of orange-trees, roses, and lilies, and countless varieties of

beautiful palms), with all the ardor of the old days. No restrictions

can prevent the Indian from being supremely picturesque at the

slightest opportunity.

I went, as usual, to San Felipe, named after the Mexican saint who, in

the sixteenth century, found martyrdom in Japan. It is just opposite

the Jockey Club. Outside the _zaguan_, on the chairs generally placed

on the pavement for the members, were sitting various males of the

smart set. All, without exception (I _think_ I could put my hand in

the fire for them), had been to Mass; which, however, didn’t prevent

their usual close scrutiny of the small, beautiful feet of the passing

Mexican women; two and one-half C is the usual size of a Mexicana’s

shoes.

This Casa de los Azujelos, where the Jockey Club has had its being for

generations, is a most lovely old house. It is covered with beautiful

blue-and-white Puebla tiles, appliquéd by an extravagant and æsthetic

Mexican in the seventeenth century, and is perfectly preserved, in

spite of the many kinds of _revolucionarios_ who have surged up the

Avenida San Francisco, which, with the _Paseo_, forms the thoroughfare

between the _Palacio_ and Chapultepec. The men of the club play high

and there are stories of fabulous losses, as well as of occasional

shootings to death. It is the _chic_, aristocratic club of Mexico,

the last and inviolable retreat of husbands. Anybody who _is_ any one

belongs to it.[14]

A telegram from Dr. Ryan this morning reports: “The Federals have lost

Torreon. Velasco, retreating, met Maure, Maass, and Hidalgo, at San

Pedro; army reorganized, and it is now attacking Torreon, and will

surely take it back.” He and von Papen got as far as Saltillo by rail.

There, communications had been cut. There had been a big encounter at

San Pedro de las Colonias, and I hope that even as I write faithful

Ryan is proceeding with his work of mercy among the wounded.

There was a meeting at the Embassy to-day, to discuss ways and means of

defense among the Americans if anything happens in the city. Von Hintze

and von Papen have tried to do some organizing among their colony. The

Japanese have long since had _carte blanche_ from the government in

the way of ammunition and marines from their ships at Manzanillo. Sir

Christopher, some time ago, sent Lieutenant Strawbensie up from Vera

Cruz, to teach the English colony a few rudiments--and the French have

also had a naval officer here for several weeks.

Last night, it appears, the boat taking 480,000 pesos to the north

coast to pay the troops was captured by rebels. “Juan and José” always

come out at the little end of the horn. There are immense geographical

difficulties in the way of transporting money to the army in the north,

over mountain chains and deserts, besides the strategic difficulty of

getting it to the proper place without the rebels or bandits seizing

it. After that, there is the further possibility of the officers

putting it in their own pockets. What wonder that “Juan and José” sell

their rifles and ammunition or go over to the rebels, where looting is

permitted and encouraged? _They_ are always hungry, no matter what are

the intentions and desires of the central government.

Telegrams from the north are very contradictory, and generally

unfavorable to the government. The foreign correspondents were warned

this morning, by a note from the Foreign Office (and it was to be the

last warning), that they were not to send out false reports favorable

to the rebels and redounding to the injury of both foreigners and

Federals. They will get the famous “33” applied to them, if they don’t

“walk Spanish.” No joking here now; much depends, psychologically, if

not actually, on the issues at Torreon.

The clever editor of the _Mexican Herald_ remarks, apropos of the

Presidential message of last week: “Our idea of a smart thing for

Carranza to do would be to read President Huerta’s message to Villa.

The array of things a President has to worry about, besides war and

confiscation, are enough to remove the glamour.”

All Villa knows about revenue is embodied in the word loot. Even in

this fertile land, where every mountain is oozing with gold, silver,

and copper, and every seed committed to the earth is ready to spring up

a hundredfold, he who neglects to plant and dig can’t reap or garner.

The whole north is one vast devastation and invitation to the specters

of famine.

FOOTNOTES:

[13] When we saw Dr. Ryan off to Serbia he suggested laughingly that I

omit the cross, as he was in jail twice, and once led out to be shot,

between that Mexican parting and our meeting in Washington six weeks

later!--E. O’S.

[14] Now the club is stripped of its sumptuous fittings and historic

pictures and library, and is a working-man’s home (_casa de obreros_)

under the philanthropic and broad-minded _Constitucionalistas_. The

beautiful old _patio_ is used for stabling horses.

XX

Good Friday--Mexican toys with symbolic sounds--“The Tampico

incident”--Sabado de Gloria and Easter--An international

photograph--The last reception at Chapultepec.

_Viernes Santo Afternoon._

As I came home from church this morning the sacred day seemed to be a

day of noise. The Indians were busy in their booths along the Alameda.

Thousands of small, wooden carts are bought by thousands of small boys

and girls; _metracas_, they are called, and so constructed that, in

addition to the usual noise, every revolution of the wheels makes a

sound like the breaking of wood. This noise is supposed to typify the

breaking of the bones of Judas. There are also appalling tin objects,

like nutmeg-graters, that revolve on sticks, with the same symbolic

sound. Little boys and girls outside the churches sell pious leaflets,

crying in their shrill voices, “_Las siete palabras de nuestro Señor

Jesus Christo_,” or “_El pesame de nuestra Señora Madre de Dios_.”

Something is brewing here, and it was with a heart somewhat perturbed

by earthly happenings that I again went to the cathedral, at three

o’clock. At the doors the little venders of the holy words were as

insistent as ever. Thousands were filing in and out, going up with

whatever burden of babe or bundle they happened to be carrying, to kiss

the great cross laid on the steps of the high altar. I bethought me

of last Good Friday in Rome, and of hearing Father Benson preach the

“Three Hours” at San Sylvestro.

_April 10th. Good Friday Night._

Events succeed each other in kaleidoscopic fashion in Latin America,

but I have, at last, a moment in which to tell you of the especial turn

to-day.

This morning N. was informed, through the Foreign Office, of something

referred to as “the Tampico incident.” The Foreign Office was decidedly

in the air about it. On returning home, at one o’clock, however, N.

found a very definite telegram from Admiral Fletcher, and there is sure

to be trouble....

N. took the penciled reading and dashed off to find Huerta. Potential

war lies in any incident here. He was away all the afternoon, hunting

Huerta, but only found him at six o’clock. Huerta’s written answer was

in the usual clever, Latin-American manner; his verbal remarks on the

subject to a foreigner were beyond editing. The newspaper men were

coming in, all the afternoon, and were disappointed not to find the

“source of light and heat.”

...

The final touch was put on the nerves of everybody by Elim’s dragging

his _metraca_ about the halls. With howls of protestation he was

separated from it.

...

N. said he might possibly have arranged the matter except for the

little Sub-Secretary, who had never met the President before, and who

wanted, all during the interview, to prove he was very much of a man.

Portillo y Rojas is away for the Easter holidays. At the President’s

door a big, sullen Indian told N. he could not see the President, who

was taking a _siesta_. As N. could not entirely follow the injunction

about sleeping dogs, he compromised on a little tour, returning to

find the President about to get into his motor. He asked N. to come

with him, which N. did, sitting by his side, the secretary facing

them on the _strapontin_. N. told the President he had something

“very delicate” (“_un asunto muy delicado_”) to speak to him about.

The President made one of his waving gestures, and the ball opened.

Huerta said he would apologize for “the Tampico incident.” N. indicated

that his government would not consider that sufficient. Huerta asked,

squarely: “What do you want?” N. answered, “The salutes,” saying he

might arrange the matter quietly, giving the salutes some morning

at sunrise, for instance. The President began to ponder the matter;

whereupon the secretary, thinking his chance had come, broke in upon

the silence with the remark that it would be derogatory to the national

honor to salute, and that there was no guarantee that the salutes

would be returned, that Mexico’s sovereignty was in question, and the

like. The President immediately stiffened up.--So can a nobody turn a

nation’s destinies!

...

There is talk of providing a neutral zone in Tampico during the

fighting. Every time an oil-tank is damaged, not only are several

hundred thousand dollars gone, but there is immense danger of the oil

flowing down the river and being set fire to. You can imagine the

result to the shipping in the harbor, as well as to the town.

[Illustration: THE SIESTA]

It is now ten o’clock; the answer of Huerta has been sent off to the

State Department and to Admiral Fletcher. Many newspaper men have

interviewed Nelson, and he has gone up-stairs. These days of delicate

negotiations--when a word too much or a word too little would make

trouble--are wearying, to say the least. But so is fame made....

It seemed to me the only thing I _didn’t_ do to-day was to buy an

imitation devil, also representing Judas, of which thousands in clay,

in cardboard, in every conceivable form, are offered on every street

corner.

_Sabado de Gloria._

To-day the _papier-maché_ “Judases” were burned, on the street corners,

to the great joy of children and adults, while cannon and torpedoes and

firecrackers of all kinds made things rather noisy. I remembered again

the old Roman days, and the quiet of Holy Saturday, “hidden in the tomb

with Christ.”

There is going to be a lot of trouble about the Tampico incident. The

“Old Man” is recalcitrant and feels that the public apology by General

Zaragoza should be sufficient. What we will do can only be surmised.

Recently, one of the newspapers had a cartoon of Mr. Bryan speaking to

“Mexico.” Under the picture was this pleasing caption, “I may say, I am

most annoyed; and if you do not immediately reform, I hesitate to say

what I may not be inclined to decide, perhaps!”

_Easter Sunday Morning._

A heavenly sky looks down on the Resurrection morn, and it is,

indeed, the resurrection of a good many Mexicans who, these last

days, have spilled their life’s blood for reasons unknown to them.

The Sub-Secretary for Foreign Affairs spent the night hour from two

to three with Nelson. The Mexican government does not want to salute

the flag, though, of course, it will have to yield to our demand.

Fighting continues at Tampico. The American war-ships are crowded

with unfortunate refugees, and there is increasing animosity against

the Americans. General Zaragoza has expressed official regret at the

arrest, but the salute to the flag has been postponed.

Nelson has already been twice to the Foreign Office. He told the

sub-secretary to tell the President the salute must be given. He has

looked up precedents in the international-law books at the Embassy,

to soothe their feelings, their _cultura_ and _bizarría_. If the

sub-secretary says that Huerta still persists in refusing, N. is going

to try a personal appeal. It is a salute or intervention, I suppose.

It appears that Mr. Bryan has said he can see no reason why the Mexican

government should not “cheerfully salute,” and “that doubtless the

church holidays have interfered with the transaction of business.” Is

it the end, or not? _Quién sabe?_

_April 12th. 5_ P.M.

A written reply, very clever indeed, was received at one o’clock,

refusing categorically to give the desired, or rather, _demanded_,

salute of twenty-one guns, at Tampico. The Mexicans say that the

whaleboat landed at a part of the town then in the military zone, and

without permission; that fighting was going on at the time; that the

city was under martial law. The men had been sent in to get gasoline

for the ship with the paymaster (usually it is only a petty officer

who accompanies the men on such errands). The reply ends with an

_acuerdo especial_ (especial message) from Huerta to the effect that

he could not comply with the United States’ demands without wounding

Mexico’s national honor and dignity and infringing on her sovereignty,

which he is ready to defend at all times and in all ways. Now what are

we going to do? The clerks have been working like mad all day, and

endless cables have gone out of the Embassy. Nelson says he will not

go to Huerta, though when we passed Chapultepec restaurant, coming

from the Reforma Club near by, where we had been lunching, he saw the

President’s motor, and got out of our car and strolled through the

restaurant, to give Huerta a chance to speak, if he was so minded,

without seeking him out. However, Huerta was dining with the officers

of the _rural_ guard, and Nelson left immediately. Huerta had been

at the automobile races all the morning, we, in our Anglo-Saxon

preoccupation, having, of course, forgotten about them. The situation

is again very tense; again war and destruction loom up--a specter to

us, as well as to this strange Indian republic that we are trying to

mold to our image and likeness.

Nelson has told all newspaper men that he gives no information to any

one; that he is a “dry spring,” and that they must cable to their home

offices for news. As, since nine-thirty, there has been the strictest

censorship, they won’t get or give much. Even the Embassy cables were

delayed until Nelson went to the office and made his arrangements.

The white pony and the Mexican saddle that the President has asked to

present to Elim, fortunately, have not appeared. You can imagine the

juicy dish of news that gift would make at home! Refusal or acceptance

would be equally delicate.

_April 13th. Evening._

No news has come. I wonder what they did in Tampico at six o’clock. A

very insistent note has come from the Foreign Office, recounting, I

think for the first time, Mexico’s many grievances against us--troubles

caused by the raising of the embargo and the consequent supplying

of arms to the rebels; claiming the Federals’ right to conduct the

fight at Tampico any way they see fit; saying that they will tolerate

no interference in their national affairs, etc. We, having armed

the rebels, can hardly take exception to the Federals’ defending

themselves. They insist that the whaleboat of the _Dolphin_ _was_ on

forbidden territory when the men were arrested, but the statement is

not official. Washington is to-day either finding a way out of the

affair or looking into the grim, cold eyes of intervention.

I had an Easter-egg hunt in the garden, for Elim, at which nine little

darlings assisted. Then we had tea, with many flashes of Spanish wit.

All the foreign children here prefer to speak Spanish. The mothers and

other ladies left at six, after which the French military _attaché_, de

Bertier, and Letellier, came in, and we talked _Mexicana_ till eight.

De Bertier said this was the second most interesting situation he

had ever watched. The first was the beginning of the French power in

Morocco--that clear flame of French civilization, at first trembling

and uncertain, in the deserts and mountains of North Africa, but ever

increasing, carried to the Arabs, a “race pure,” by a handful of brave

and dashing soldiers, also of a “race pure.” He finds the problem much

more complicated in Mexico, where a _salade_ of races is involved.

_April 14th. 2_ P.M.

This morning, like so many mornings here, had its own special color.

Nelson had not seen Huerta since the interview on Friday night, about

the saluting of the flag. We drove out to Chapultepec, where, before

the restaurant steps, the usual _petit lever_ was being held--generals,

Cabinet Ministers, and other officials. Nelson went over to the

President, while the motor, with Clarence Hay and myself in it,

retreated out of the blazing sun under the shade of some convenient and

beautiful ahuehuetes. From afar we saw the President get out of his

motor and Nelson go up to him; then both walked up the broad stairs

of the restaurant. In a few minutes Ramon Corona, now chief of staff,

walked quickly over to our motor.

“I come from the President to ask you to go to the _fiesta militar_

in the Pereda _cuartel_,” he said. The President took Nelson in his

motor, I following in ours, with Corona. Hay vanished from the somewhat

complicated situation. I got to the barracks to find that we were the

only foreigners, and I the only lady on the raised dais (where generals

and Cabinet Ministers were even thicker than at Chapultepec), to watch

the various exercises the well-trained _gendarme_ corps gave for the

President. They are for the moment without horses, the lack of which

is a great problem here. We watched the various steps, drills, and

exercises for a couple of hours with great interest, I sitting between

Corona and charming young Eduardo Iturbide, the present governor of

the Federal district. It is wonderful what those Indians did, having

been gathered in only during the last month. I told one or two little

stories of things I had seen in Berlin and Rome. You remember how

the raw recruits used to pass Alsenstrasse on the way to those big

barracks, just over the Spree--great, hulking, awkward, ignorant

peasants who after six weeks could stand straight, look an officer in

the eye, and answer “Yes” or “No” to a question. The Italian story was

one once told me by a lieutenant who had been drilling some recruits

back of the Pamfili-Doria Villa. After several weeks’ instruction, he

asked a man, “Who lives over there?” pointing to the Vatican. “I don’t

know,” was the answer. He called another man, who responded, promptly,

“The Pope.” The officer, much encouraged, asked further, “What is his

name?” “Victor Emmanuele,” was the unhappy response. This last story

especially appealed to the officers. They told me their greatest

difficulty is to get any kind of mental concentration from the Indians.

A diplomat's wife in Mexico · 第 18 / 25 段