of Dubawnt Lake reached Kazan River just above Angikuni Lake (called on
Alexander Mackenzie's map Titmeg Lake), probably just at its western
end, where the caribou cross the river in large numbers in their
migration southward. This point is in latitude 62° 20' north, while
Hearne places his crossing-place in latitude 62° 12'. Thence, keeping
south of Angikuni Lake, he turned more to the east, and passing several
lakes which cannot be definitely identified, but two of which are
probably Magnus and Thaolintoa Lakes, he reached Thlewiaza River east of
Island Lake, where he was joined by Matonabbee and a band of Indians,
who had left their wives at Island Lake, and were on their way to Fort
Prince of Wales to trade.
At the Thlewiaza River he turned eastward down the stream to a grove of
timber to obtain wood for snow-shoes. After making snow-shoes he turned
southward and rejoined Matonabbee and his band of Indians for a short
time, and then pushed on across Egg and Seal Rivers and around the south
end of Button's Bay to Fort Prince of Wales.
{60} CHAP. IV.
Transactions during our Stay at Prince of Wales's Fort, and the
former part of our third Expedition, till our Arrival at Clowey,
where we built Canoes, in May 1771.
_Preparations for our departure--Refuse to take any of the
home-guard Indians with me--By so doing, I offend the
Governor--Leave the Fort a third time--My instructions on this
expedition--Provisions of all kinds very scarce--Arrive at the
woods, where we kill some deer--Arrive at Island
Lake--Matonabbee taken ill--Some remarks thereon--Join the
remainder of the Indians' families--Leave Island
Lake--Description thereof--Deer plentiful--Meet a strange
Indian--Alter our course from West North West to West by
South--Cross Cathawhachaga River, Cossed Lake, Snow-Bird Lake,
and Pike Lake--Arrive at a tent of strangers, who are employed
in snaring deer in a pound--Description of the pound--Method of
proceeding--Remarks thereon--Proceed on our journey--Meet with
several parties of Indians; by one of whom I sent a letter to
the Governor at Prince of Wales's Fort--Arrive at
Thleweyazayeth--Employment there--Proceed to the North North
West and North--Arrive at Clowey--One of the Indians' wives
taken in labour--Remarks thereon--Customs observed by the
Northern Indians on those occasions._
[Sidenote: 1770. November. 28th.]
On my arrival at the Fort, I informed the Governor, of Matonabbee's
being so near. On the twenty-eighth of November he arrived.
Notwithstanding the many difficulties and hardships which I had
undergone during my two unsuccessful attempts, I was so far from being
{61} solicited on this occasion to undertake a third excursion, that I
willingly offered my service; which was readily accepted, as my
abilities and approved courage, in persevering under difficulties, were
thought noways inferior to the task.
[Illustration: A SOUTH-WEST VIEW OF PRINCE OF WALES'S FORT, HUDSON'S BAY
_Published by J. Sewell, Cornhill, March 1st, 1797_
_From the "European Magazine", June, 1797_]
[Sidenote: 1770. December.]
I then determined to engage Matonabbee to be my guide; to which he
readily consented, and with a freedom of speech and correctness of
language not commonly met with among Indians, not only pointed out the
reasons which had occasioned all our misfortunes in my two former
attempts, but described the plan he intended to pursue; which at the
same time that it was highly satisfactory to me, did honour to his
penetration and judgment; as it proved him to be a man of extensive
observation with respect to times, seasons, and places; and well
qualified to explain everything that could contribute either to
facilitate or retard the ease or progress of travelling in those dreary
parts of the world.
[Sidenote: 7th.]
[Sidenote: 1770. December.]
Having engaged Matonabbee, therefore, as my guide, I began to make
preparations for our departure; but Mr. Norton, the Governor, having
been very fully occupied in trading with a large body of Indians, it was
the seventh of December before I could obtain from him my dispatches. It
may not be improper to observe, that he again wanted to force some of
the home-guard Indians (who were {62} his own relations[Z]) into our
company, merely with a view that they might engross all the credit of
taking care of{63} me during the journey; but I had round them of so
little use in my two former attempts, that I absolutely refused them;
and by so doing, offended Mr. Norton to such a degree, that neither time
nor absence could ever afterwards eradicate his dislike of me; so that
at my return he used every means in his power to treat me ill, and to
render my life unhappy. However, to deal with candour on this occasion,
it must be acknowledged to his honour, that whatever our private
animosities might have been, he did not suffer them to interfere with
public business; and I was fitted out with ammunition, and every other
article which Matonabbee thought could be wanted. I was also furnished,
as before, with a small assortment of light trading goods, as presents
to the far distant Indians.
[Sidenote: 1770. December.]
At last I succeeded in obtaining my instructions which were as follows:
{64} "ORDERS _and_ INSTRUCTIONS _for_ Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE, _going
on his third Expedition to the North of Churchill River, in
quest of a North West Passage, Copper Mines, or any other thing
that may be serviceable to the British Nation in general, or the
Hudson's Bay Company in particular; in the year 1770._
"Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE.
"SIR,
"As you have offered your service a third time to go in search of the
Copper Mine River, &c., and as Matonabbee, a leading Indian, who has
been at those parts, is willing to be your guide, we have accordingly
engaged him for that service; but having no other instrument on the same
construction with the quadrant you had the misfortune to break, we have
furnished you with an Elton's quadrant, being the most proper instrument
we can now procure for making observations on the land.
"The above Leader, Matonabbee, and a few of his best men, which he has
selected for that purpose, are to provide for you, assist you in all
things, and conduct you to the Copper Mine River; where you must {65} be
careful to observe the latitude and longitude, also the course of the
river, the depth of the water, the situation of the Copper Mines, &c.,
but your first instructions, of November sixth, one thousand seven
hundred and sixty-nine, being sufficiently full, we refer you to every
part thereof for the better regulation of your conduct during this
journey.
[Sidenote: 1770. December.]
"As you and your Indian companions are fitted out with everything that
we think is necessary, (or at least as many useful articles as the
nature of travelling in those parts will admit of), you are hereby
desired to proceed on your journey as soon as possible; and your
present guide has promised to take great care of you, and conduct you
out and home with all convenient speed.
"I conclude with my best wishes for your health and happiness, together
with a successful journey, and a quick return in safety. Amen.
"(Signed) MOSES NORTON, Governor.
"Dated at Prince of Wales's Fort,
7th December 1770."
[Sidenote: 7th.]
On the seventh of December I set out on my third journey; and the
weather, considering the season of the year, was for some days pretty
mild. One of Matonabbee's wives being ill, occasioned us to walk so
slow, that {66} it was the thirteenth before we arrived at Seal River;
at which time two men and their wives left us, whose loads, when added
to those of the remainder of my crew, made a very material difference,
especially as Matonabbee's wife was so ill as to be obliged to be hauled
on a sledge.
[Sidenote: 16th.]
[Sidenote: 1770. December.]
Finding deer and all other game very scarce, and not knowing how long it
might be before we could reach any place where they were in greater
plenty, the Indians walked as far each day as their loads and other
circumstances would conveniently permit. On the sixteenth, we arrived at
Egg River, where Matonabbee and the rest of my crew had laid up some
provisions and other necessaries, when on their journey to the Fort. On
going to the place where they thought the provisions had been carefully
secured from all kinds of wild beasts, they had the mortification to
find that some of their countrymen, with whom the Governor had first
traded and dispatched from the Fort, had robbed the store of every
article, as well as of some of their most useful implements. This loss
was more severely felt, as there was a total want of every kind of game;
and the Indians, not expecting to meet with so great a disappointment,
had not used that economy in the expenditure of the oatmeal and other
provisions which they had received at the Fort, as they probably would
have done, had they not relied firmly on finding a supply at this place.
This disappointment and loss was borne by the Indians with the greatest
fortitude; and I did not hear {67} one of them breathe the least hint of
revenge in case they should ever discover the offenders; the only effect
it had on them was, that of making them put the best foot foremost. This
was thought so necessary, that for some time we walked every day from
morning till night. The days, however, being short, our sledges heavy,
and some of the road very bad, our progress seldom exceeded sixteen or
eighteen miles a day, and some days we did not travel so much.
[Sidenote: 18th.]
On the eighteenth, as we were continuing our course to the North West,
up a small creek that empties itself into Egg River, we saw the tracks
of many deer which had crossed that part a few days before; at that time
there was not a fresh track to be seen: some of the Indians, however,
who had lately passed that way, had killed more than they had occasion
for, so that several joints of good meat were found in their old
tent-places; which, though only sufficient for one good meal, were very
acceptable, as we had been in exceeding straitened circumstances for
many days.
[Sidenote: 19th.]
[Sidenote: 27th.]
[Sidenote: 1770. December.]
On the nineteenth, we pursued our course in the North West quarter; and,
after leaving the above-mentioned creek, traversed nothing but entire
barren ground, with empty bellies, till the twenty-seventh; for though
we arrived at some woods on the twenty-sixth, and saw a few deer, four
of which the Indians killed, they were {68} at so great a distance from
the place on which we lay, that it was the twenty-seventh before the
meat was brought to the tents. Here the Indians proposed to continue one
day, under pretence of repairing their sledges and snow shoes; but from
the little attention they paid to those repairs, I was led to think that
the want of food was the chief thing that detained them, as they never
ceased eating the whole day. Indeed for many days before we had in
great want, and for the last three days had not tasted a morsel of any
thing, except a pipe of tobacco and a drink of snow water; and as we
walked daily from morning till night, and were all heavy laden, our
strength began to fail. I must confess that I never spent so dull a
Christmas; and when I recollected the merry season which was then
passing, and reflected on the immense quantities, and great variety of
delicacies which were then expending in every part of Christendom, and
that with a profusion bordering on waste, I could not refrain from
wishing myself again in Europe, if it had been only to have had an
opportunity of alleviating the extreme hunger which I suffered with the
refuse of the table of any one of my acquaintance. My Indians, however,
still kept in good spirits; and as we were then across all the barren
ground, and saw a few fresh tracks of deer, they began to think that the
worst of the road was over for that winter, and flattered me with the
expectation of soon meeting with deer and other game in greater plenty
than we had done since our departure from the Fort.
[Sidenote: 28th.]
{69} Early in the morning of the twenty-eighth, we again set out, and
directed our course to the Westward, through thick shrubby woods,
consisting chiefly of ill-shaped stunted pines, with small dwarf
junipers, intermixed here and there, particularly round the margins of
ponds and swamps, with dwarf willow bushes; and among the rocks and
sides of the hills were also some small poplars.[46]
[Sidenote: 30th.]
[Sidenote: 1770. December.]
On the thirtieth, we arrived at the East side of Island Lake,[47] where
the Indians killed two large buck deer; but the rutting season was so
lately over, that their flesh was only eatable by those who could not
procure better food. In the evening, Matonabbee was taken very ill; and
from the nature of his complaint, I judged his illness to have proceeded
from the enormous quantity of meat that he had eat on the
twenty-seventh, as he had been indisposed ever since that time. Nothing
is more common with those Indians, after they have eat as much at a
sitting as would serve six moderate men, than to find themselves out of
order; but not one of them can bear to hear that it is the effect of
eating too much: in defence of which they say, that the meanest of the
animal creation knows when hunger is satisfied, and will leave off
accordingly. This, however, is a false assertion, advanced knowingly in
support of an absurd argument; for it is well known by them, as well as
all the Southern Indians, that the black bear, who, for size and the
delicacy of its flesh, may justly be called a respectable animal, is so
far from knowing {70} when its hunger is satisfied, that, in the Summer,
when the berries are ripe, it will gorge to such a degree, that it
frequently, and even daily, vomits up great quantities of new-swallowed
fruit, before it has undergone any change in the stomach, and
immediately renews its repast with as much eagerness as before.
[Sidenote: 1770. December.]
Notwithstanding the Northern Indians are at times so voracious, yet they
bear hunger with a degree of fortitude which, as Mr. Ellis justly
observes of the Southern Indians, "is much easier to admire than to
imitate." I have more than once seen the Northern Indians, at the end of
three or four days fasting, as merry and jocose on the subject, as if
they had voluntarily imposed it on themselves; and would ask each other
in the plainest terms, and in the merriest mood, if they had any
inclination for an intrigue with a strange woman? I must acknowledge
that examples of this kind were of infinite service to me, as they
tended to keep up my spirits on those occasions with a degree of
fortitude that would have been impossible for me to have done had the
Indians behaved in a contrary manner, and expressed any apprehension of
starving.
[Sidenote: 31st.]
[Sidenote: 1771. January. 1st.]
[Sidenote: 1771. January.]
Early in the morning of the thirty-first, we continued our journey, and
walked about fourteen miles to the Westward on Island Lake, where we
fixed our residence; but Matonabbee was at this time so ill as to be
obliged to be hauled on a sledge the whole day. The {71} next morning,
however, he so far recovered as to be capable of walking; when we
proceeded on to the West and West by North, about sixteen miles farther
on the same Lake, till we arrived at two tents, which contained the
remainder of the wives and families of my guides, who had been waiting
there for the return of their husbands from the Fort. Here we found only
two men, though there were upward of twenty women and children; and as
those two men had no gun or ammunition, they had no other method of
supporting themselves and the women, but by catching fish, and snaring a
few rabbits:[48] the latter were scarce, but the former were easily
caught in considerable numbers either with nets or hooks. The species of
fish generally caught in the nets are tittemeg, pike, and barble; and
the only sorts caught with hooks are trout, pike, burbut, and a small
fish, erroneously called by the English tench: the Southern Indians call
it the toothed tittemeg, and the Northern Indians call it _saint eah_.
They are delicate eating; being nearly as firm as a perch, and generally
very fat. They seldom exceed a foot in length, and in shape much
resemble a gurnard, except that of having a very long broad fin on the
back, like a perch, but this fin is not armed with similar spikes. The
scales are large, and of a sooty brown. They are generally most esteemed
when broiled or roasted with the scales on, of course the skin is not
eaten.
[Sidenote: 3d.]
{72} As the Captain [Matonabbee] and one man were indisposed, we did not
move on the second of January; but early in the morning of the third set
out, and walked about seven miles to the North Westward, five of which
were on the above mentioned Lake; when the Indians having killed two
deer, we put up for the night.
Island Lake (near the center) is in latitude 60° 45' North, and 102° 25'
West longitude, from London; and is, at the part we crossed, about
thirty-five miles wide: but from the North East to the South West it is
much larger, and entirely full of islands, so near to each other as to
make the whole Lake resemble a jumble of serpentine rivers and creeks;
and it is celebrated by the natives as abounding with great plenty of
fine fish during the beginning of the Winter. At different parts of this
Lake most part of the wives and families of those Northern Indians who
visit Prince of Wales's Fort in October and November generally reside,
and wait for their return; as there is little fear of their being in
want of provisions, even without the assistance of a gun and ammunition,
which is a point of real consequence to them. The Lake is plentifully
supplied with water from several small rivulets and creeks which run
into it at the South West end; and it empties itself by means of other
small rivers which run to the North East, the principal of which is
Nemace-a-seepee-a-fish, or Little Fish River. Many of the islands, {73}
as well as the main land round this Lake, abound with dwarf woods,
chiefly pines; but in some parts intermixed with larch and small birch
trees. The land, like all the rest which lies to the North of Seal
River, is hilly, and full of rocks; and though none of the hills are
high, yet as few of the woods grow on their summits, they in general
show their snowy heads far above the woods which grow in the vallies, or
those which are scattered about their sides.
[Sidenote: 1771. January.]
After leaving Island Lake, we continued our old course between the West
and North West, and travelled at the easy rate of eight or nine miles a
day. Provisions of all kinds were scarce till the sixteenth, when the
Indians killed twelve deer. This induced us to put up, though early in
the day; and finding great plenty of deer in the neighbourhood of our
little encampment, it was agreed by all parties to remain a few days, in
order to dry and pound some meat to make it lighter for carriage.
[Sidenote: 22d.]
[Sidenote: 1771. January.]
Having, by the twenty-second, provided a sufficient stock of provision,
properly prepared, to carry with us, and repaired our sledges and
snow-shoes, we again pursued our course in the North West quarter; and
in the afternoon spoke with a stranger, an Indian, who had one of
Matonabbee's wives under his care. He did not remain in our company
above an hour, as he only smoked part of a few pipes with his friends,
and returned to his tent, which could not {74} be far distant from the
place where we lay that night, as the woman and her two children joined
us next morning, before we had taken down our tent and made ready for
moving. Those people were the first strangers whom we had met since we
left the Fort, though we had travelled several hundred miles; which is a
proof that this part of the country is but thinly inhabited. It is a
truth well known to the natives, and doubtless founded on experience,
that there are many very extensive tracts of land in those parts, which
are incapable of affording support to any number of the human race even
during the short time they are passing through them, in the capacity of
migrants, from one place to another; much less are they capable of
affording a constant support to those who might wish to make them their
fixed residence at any season of the year. It is true, that few rivers
or lakes in those parts are entirely destitute of fish; but the
uncertainty of meeting with a sufficient supply for any considerable
time together, makes the natives very cautious how they put their whole
dependance on that article, as it has too frequently been the means of
many hundreds being starved to death.
[Sidenote: 23d.]
By the twenty-third, deer were so plentiful that the Indians seemed to
think that, unless the season, contrary to expectation and general
experience, should prove unfavourable, there would be no fear of our
being in want of {75} provisions during the rest of the Winter, as deer
had always been known to be in great plenty in the direction which they
intended to walk.
[Sidenote: February. 3d.]
On the third of February, we continued our course to the West by North
and West North West,[49] and were so near the edge of the woods, that
the barren ground was in sight to the Northward. As the woods trended
away to the West, we were obliged to alter our course to West by South,
for the sake of keeping among them, as well as the deer. In the course
of this day's walk we saw several strangers, some of whom remained in
our company, while others went on their respective ways.
[Sidenote: 6th.]
[Sidenote: 1771. February.]
On the sixth, we crossed the main branch of Cathawhachaga River;[50]
which, at that part, is about three quarters of a mile broad; and after
walking three miles farther, came to the side of Cossed Whoie,[51] or
Partridge Lake; but the day being far spent, and the weather excessively
cold, we put up for the night.
[Sidenote: 7th.]
Early in the morning of the seventh, the weather being serene and clear,
we set out, and crossed the above mentioned Lake; which at that part is
about fourteen miles wide; but from the South South West to North North
East is much larger. It is impossible to describe the intenseness of the
cold which we experienced this day; and the dispatch we made in crossing
the lake is almost incredible, as it was {76} performed by the greatest
part of my crew in less than two hours; though some of the women, who
were heavy laden, took a much longer time. Several of the Indians were
much frozen, but none of them more disagreeably so than one of
Matonabbee's wives, whose thighs and buttocks were in a manner incrusted
with frost; and when thawed, several blisters arose, nearly as large as
sheeps' bladders. The pain the poor woman suffered on this occasion was
greatly aggravated by the laughter and jeering of her companions, who
said that she was rightly served for belting her clothes so high. I must
acknowledge that I was not in the number of those who pitied her, as I
thought she took too much pains to shew a clean heel and good leg; her
garters being always in sight, which, though by no means considered here
as bordering on indecency, is by far too airy to withstand the rigorous
cold of a severe winter in a high Northern latitude. I doubt not that
the laughter of her companions was excited by similar ideas.
[Sidenote: 1771. February.]
When we got on the West side of Partridge Lake we continued our course
for many days toward the West by South and West South West; when deer
were so plentiful, and the Indians killed such vast numbers, that
notwithstanding we frequently remained three, four, or five days in a
place, to eat up the spoils of our hunting, yet at our departure we
frequently left great quantities of good meat behind us, which we could
neither eat nor carry with us. {77} This conduct is the more excusable
among people whose wandering manner of life and contracted ideas make
every thing appear to them as the effect of mere chance. The great
uncertainty of their ever visiting this or that part a second time,
induces them to think there is nothing either wrong or improvident in
living on the best the country will afford, as they are passing through
it from place to place; and they seem willing that those who come after
them should take their chance, as they have done.
[Sidenote: 21st.]