Sickness and famine occasioned such havock among the English, that by

the setting in of the second Winter their number was reduced to twenty.

That Winter (one thousand seven hundred and twenty) some of the

Esquimaux took up their abode on the opposite side of the harbour to

that on which the English had built their houses,[E] and {xxxi}

frequently supplied them with such provisions as they had, which chiefly

consisted of whale's blubber and seal's flesh and train oil. When the

Spring advanced, the Esquimaux went to the continent, and on their

visiting Marble Island again, in the Summer of one thousand seven

hundred and twenty-one, they only found five of the English alive, and

those were in such distress for provisions that they eagerly eat the

seal's flesh and whale's blubber quite raw, as they purchased it from

the natives. This disordered them so much, that three of them died in a

few days, and the other two, though very weak, made a shift to bury

them. Those two survived many days after the rest, and frequently went

to the top of an adjacent rock, and earnestly looked to the South and

East, as if in expectation of some vessels coming to their relief. After

continuing there a considerable time together, and nothing appearing in

sight, they sat down close together, and wept bitterly. At length one of

the two died, and the other's strength was so far exhausted, that he

fell down and died also, in attempting to dig a grave for his companion.

The {xxxii} sculls and other large bones of those two men are now lying

above-ground close to the house. The longest liver was, according to the

Esquimaux account, always employed in working of iron into implements

for them; probably he was the armourer, or smith.

Some Northern Indians who came to trade at Prince of Wales's Fort in the

Spring of the year one thousand seven hundred and sixty-eight, brought

farther accounts of the grand river, as it was called, and also several

pieces of copper, as samples of the produce of the mine near it; which

determined Mr. Norton, who was then Governor at Churchill, to represent

it to the Company as an affair worthy of their attention; and as he went

that year to England, he had an opportunity of laying all the

information he had received before the Board, with his opinion thereon,

and the plan which he thought most likely to succeed in the discovery of

those mines. In consequence of Mr. Norton's representations, the

Committee resolved to send an intelligent person by land to observe the

longitude and latitude of the river's mouth, to make a chart of the

country he might walk through, with such remarks as occurred to him

during the Journey; when I was pitched on as a proper person to conduct

the expedition. By the ship that went to Churchill in the Summer of one

thousand seven hundred and sixty-nine, the Company sent out some

astronomical instruments, very portable, and fit for such observations

as they required me {xxxiii} to make, and at the same time requested me

to undertake the Journey, promising to allow me at my return, a gratuity

proportionable to the trouble and fatigue I might undergo in the

expedition.[F]

{xxxiv} I did not hesitate to comply with the request of the Company,

and in the November following, when some Northern Indians came to trade,

Mr. Norton, who was then returned to the command of Prince of Wales's

Fort, engaged such of them for my guides as he thought were most likely

to answer the purpose; but none of them had been at this grand river. I

was fitted out with everything thought necessary, and with ammunition to

serve two years. I was to be accompanied by two of the Company's

servants, two of the Home-guard[G] (Southern) Indians, {xxxv} and a

sufficient number of Northern Indians to carry and haul my baggage,

provide for me, &c. But for the better stating this arrangement, it will

not be improper to insert my Instructions, which, with some occasional

remarks thereon, will throw much light on the following Journal, and be

the best method of proving how far those orders have been complied with,

as well as shew my reasons for neglecting some parts as unnecessary, and

the impossibility of putting other parts of them in execution.

"ORDERS _and_ INSTRUCTIONS _for_ Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE, _going on an

Expedition by Land towards the Latitude 70° North, in order to

gain a Knowledge of the Northern Indians Country, &c. on Behalf

of the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company, in the Year 1769_.

"Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE,

"SIR,

"Whereas the Honourable Hudson's Bay Company have been informed

by the report from Indians, that there is a great probability of

considerable advantages to be expected from a better knowledge

of their country by us, than what hitherto has been obtained;

and as it is the Company's earnest desire to embrace every

circumstance that may tend to the benefit of the said Company,

or the Nation at large, they have requested you to conduct this

Expedition; and as you {xxxvi} have readily consented to

undertake the present Journey, you are hereby desired to proceed

as soon as possible, with William Isbester sailor, and Thomas

Merriman landsman, as companions, they both being willing to

accompany you; also two of the Home-guard Southern Indians, who

are to attend and assist you during the Journey; and Captain

Chawchinahaw, his Lieutenant Nabyah, and six or eight of the

best Northern Indians we can procure, with a small part of their

families, are to conduct you, provide for you, and assist you

and your companions in every thing that lays in their power,

having particular orders so to do.

"2dly, Whereas you and your companions are well fitted-out with

every thing we think necessary, as also a sample of light

trading goods; these you are to dispose of by way of presents

(and not by way of trade) to such far-off Indians as you may

meet with, and to smoke your Calimut[H] of Peace with their

leaders, in order to establish a friendship with them. You are

also to persuade them as much as possible from going to war with

each other, to encourage them to exert themselves in procuring

furrs and other articles for trade, and to assure them of good

payment for them at the Company's Factory.

"It is sincerely recommended to you and your companions to treat

the natives with civility, so as not to give {xxxvii} them any

room for complaint or disgust, as they have strict orders not to

give you the least offence, but are to aid and assist you in any

matter you may request of them for the benefit of the

undertaking.

"If any Indians you may meet, that are coming to the Fort,

should be willing to trust you with either food or clothing,

make your agreement for those commodities, and by them send me a

letter, specifying the quantity of each article, and they shall

be paid according to your agreement. And, according to the

Company's orders, you are to correspond with me, or the Chief at

Prince of Wales's Fort for the time being, at all opportunities:

And as you have mathematical instruments with you, you are to

send me, or the Chief for the time being, an account of what

latitude and longitude you may be in at such and such periods,

together with the heads of your proceedings; which accounts are

to be remitted to the Company by the return of their ships.[I]

"3dly, The Indians who are now appointed your guides, are to

conduct you to the borders of the Athapuscow[J] Indians country,

where Captain Matonabbee {xxxviii} is to meet you[K] in the

Spring of one thousand seven hundred and seventy, in order to

conduct you to a river represented by the Indians to abound with

copper ore, animals of the furr kind, &c., and which is said to

be so far to the Northward, that in the middle of the Summer the

Sun does not set, and is supposed by the Indians to empty itself

into some ocean. This river, which is called by the Northern

Indians Neetha-san-san-dazey, or the Far Off Metal River, you

are, if possible, to trace to the mouth, and there determine the

latitude and longitude as near as you can; but more particularly

so if you find it navigable, and that a settlement can be made

there with any degree of safety, or benefit to the Company.

"Be careful to observe what mines are near the river, what water

there is at the river's mouth, how far the woods are from the

sea-side, the course of the river, the nature of the soil, and

the productions of it; and make any other remarks that you may

think will be either necessary or satisfactory. And if the said

river be likely to be of any utility, take possession of it on

behalf of the Hudson's Bay Company, by cutting your {xxxix} name

on some of the rocks, as also the date of the year, month,

&c.[L]

"When you attempt to trace this or any other river, be careful

that the Indians are furnished with a sufficient number of

canoes for trying the depth of water, the strength of the

current, &c. If by any unforeseen accident or disaster you

should not be able to reach the before-mentioned river, it is

earnestly recommended to you, if possible, to know the event of

Wager Strait;[M] for it is represented by the last discoverers

to terminate in small rivers and lakes. See how far the woods

are from the navigable parts of it; and whether a settlement

could with any propriety be made there. If this should prove

unworthy of notice, you are to take the same method with Baker's

Lake, which is the head of {xl} Bowden's or Chesterfield's

Inlet;[N] as also with any other rivers you may meet with; and

if likely to be of any utility, you are to take possession of

them, as before mentioned, on the behalf of the Honourable

Hudson's Bay Company. The draft of Bowden's Inlet and Wager

Strait I send with you, that you may have a better idea of those

places, in case of your visiting them.

"4thly, Another material point which is recommended to you, is

to find out, if you can, either by your own travels, or by

information from the Indians, whether there is a passage through

this continent.[O] It will be {xli} very useful to clear up this

point, if possible, in order to prevent farther doubts from

arising hereafter respecting a passage out of Hudson's Bay[P]

into the Western Ocean, as hath lately been represented by the

American Traveller. The particulars of those remarks you are to

insert in your Journal, to be remitted home to the Company.

"If you should want any supplies of ammunition, or other

necessaries, dispatch some trusty Indians to the Fort with a

letter, specifying the quantity of each article, and appoint a

place for the said Indians to meet you again.

"When on your return, if at a proper time of the year, and you

should be near any of the harbours that are frequented by the

brigantine _Charlotte_, or the sloop _Churchill_, during their

voyage to the Northward, and you should chuse to return in one

of them, you are desired to make frequent smokes as you approach

those harbours, and they will endeavour to receive you by making

smokes in answer to yours; and as one thousand seven hundred and

seventy-one will probably be the year in which you will return,

the Masters of those vessels at that period shall have

particular orders on that head.

{xlii} "It will be pleasing to hear by the first opportunity, in

what latitude and longitude you meet the Leader Matonabbee, and

how far he thinks it is to the Coppermine River, as also the

probable time it may take before you can return. But in case any

thing should prevent the said Leader from joining you, according

to expectation, you are then to procure the best Indians you can

for your guides, and either add to, or diminish, your number, as

you may from time to time think most necessary for the good of

the expedition.

"So I conclude, wishing you and your companions a continuance of

health, together with a prosperous Journey, and a happy return

in safety. Amen.

"MOSES NORTON, Governor.

"Dated at Prince of Wales's Fort, Churchill River, Hudson's

"Bay, North America, November 6th, 1769."

Isbester and Merriman, mentioned in my Instructions, actually

accompanied me during my first short attempt; but the Indians knowing

them to be but common men, used them so indifferently, particularly in

scarce times, that I was under some apprehensions of their being starved

to death, and I thought myself exceedingly happy when I got them safe

back to the Factory. This extraordinary behaviour of the Indians made me

determine not to take any Europeans with me on my two last expeditions.

{xliii} With regard to that part of my Instructions which directs me to

observe the nature of the soil, the productions thereof, &c., it must be

observed, that during the whole time of my absence from the Fort, I was

invariably confined to stony hills and barren plains all the Summer, and

before we approached the woods in the Fall of the year, the ground was

always covered with snow to a considerable depth; so that I never had an

opportunity of seeing any of the small plants and shrubs to the

Westward. But from appearances, and the slow and dwarfy growth of the

woods, &c. (except in the Athapuscow country), there is undoubtedly a

greater scarcity of vegetable productions than at the Company's most

Northern Settlement; and to the Eastward of the woods, on the barren

grounds, whether hills or vallies, there is a total want of herbage

except moss, on which the deer feed; a few dwarf willows creep among the

moss; some wish-a-capucca and a little grass may be seen here and there,

but the latter is scarcely sufficient to serve the geese and other birds

of passage during their short stay in those parts, though they are

always in a state of migration, except when they are breeding and in a

moulting state.

In consequence of my complying with the Company's request, and

undertaking this Journey, it is natural to suppose that every necessary

arrangement was made for the easier keeping of my reckoning, &c., under

the many inconveniences I must be unavoidably obliged to labour in such

an expedition. I drew a Map on a large skin of parchment, that contained

twelve degrees of latitude {xliv} North, and thirty degrees of longitude

West, of Churchill Factory, and sketched all the West coast of the Bay

on it, but left the interior parts blank, to be filled up during my

Journey. I also prepared detached pieces on a much larger scale for

every degree of latitude and longitude contained in the large Map. On

those detached pieces I pricked off my daily courses and distance, and

entered all lakes and rivers, &c., that I met with; endeavouring, by a

strict enquiry of the natives, to find out the communication of one

river with another, as also their connections with the many lakes with

which that country abounds: and when opportunity offered, having

corrected them by observations, I entered them in the general Map. These

and several other necessary preparations, for the easier, readier, and

more correctly keeping my Journal and Chart, were also adopted; but as

to myself, little was required to be done, as the nature of travelling

long journies in those countries will never admit of carrying even the

most common article of clothing; so that the traveller is obliged to

depend on the country he passes through, for that article, as well as

for provisions. Ammunition, useful iron-work, some tobacco, a few

knives, and other indispensable articles, make a sufficient load for any

one to carry that is going a journey likely to last twenty months, or

two years. As that was the case, I only took the shirt and clothes I

then had on, one spare coat, a pair of drawers, and as much cloth as

would make me two or three pair of Indian stockings, which, together

with a blanket for bedding, composed the whole of my stock of clothing.

FOOTNOTES:

[13] John Bean was master of the Company's sloop trading to Knapp's Bay

and Whale Cove in 1756 and subsequent years, but no more is known of

him. Captain Christopher was sent from Churchill in 1761 to examine

Chesterfield Inlet, and during that and the following years he explored

it to the head of Baker Lake. Magnus Johnson explored Rankin Inlet in

1764. Captain Duncan in 1791 explored Corbett's Inlet, and in the

following year made a re-examination of Chesterfield Inlet, and ascended

a short distance up Dubawnt River.

[14] "An Account of the Countries adjoining to Hudson's Bay." By Arthur

Dobbs. London, 1774.

"A Voyage to Hudson's Bay by the _Dobbs Galley_ and _California_ in the

Years 1746 and 1747." By Henry Ellis. London, 1748.

"An Account of Six Years' Residence in Hudson's Bay." By Joseph Robson.

London, 1752.

"An Account of a Voyage for the Discovery of a North-West Passage

Performed in the Years 1746 and 1747," 2 vols. By the Clerk of the

_California_ [T. S. Dragge]. London, 1748.

"The American Traveller." By an Old and Experienced Trader [Alexander

Cluny], London, 1769.

[B] Since the above was written, a Mr. Umfreville has published an

account of Hudson's Bay, with the same ill-nature as the former Authors;

and for no other reason than that of being disappointed in succeeding to

a command in the Bay, though there was no vacancy for him.[15]

[15] Umfreville states (p. 3) that he entered the service of the

Hudson's Bay Company in the capacity of writer at the salary of £15 a

year, and continued in that employ eleven years. But some disagreement

arising in point of salary he quitted the service. ("The Present State

of Hudson's Bay." By Edward Umfreville. London, 1790.)

[C] American Traveller, p. 23.[17]

[16] As Hearne's latitudes of the Coppermine River are much too far

north, this should be changed to read "the sixty-seventh degree of

latitude."

[17] The American Traveller is speaking of the possibility of opening up

a trade in copper, and he says that in 1744 he discovered several large

lumps of copper, but he doubtless meant that he was shown it by the

natives, or found it with them.

[D] Captain Barlow was Governor at Albany Fort when the French went over

land from Canada to besiege it in 1704. The Canadians and their Indian

guides lurked in the neighbourhood of Albany for several days before

they made the attack, and killed many of the cattle that were grazing in

the marshes. A faithful Home-Indian, who was on a hunting excursion,

discovering those strangers, and supposing them to be enemies,

immediately returned to the Fort, and informed the Governor of the

circumstance, who gave little credit to it. However, every measure was

taken for the defence of the Fort, and orders were given to the Master

of a sloop that lay at some distance, to come to the Fort with all

possible expedition on hearing a gun fired.

Accordingly, in the middle of the night, or rather in the morning, the

French came before the Fort, marched up to the gate, and demanded

entrance. Mr. Barlow, who was then on the watch, told them that the

Governor was asleep, but he would get the keys immediately. The French,

hearing this, expected no opposition, and flocked up to the gate as

close as they could stand. Barlow took the advantage of this

opportunity, and instead of opening the gate, only opened two port

holes, where two six-pounders stood loaded with grape shot, which were

instantly fired. This discharge killed great numbers of the French, and

among them the Commander, who was an Irishman.

Such an unexpected reception made the remainder retire with great

precipitation; and the Master of the sloop hearing the guns, made the

best of his way up to the Fort; but some of the French who lay concealed

under the banks of the river killed him, and all the boat's crew.

The French retired from this place with reluctance; for some of them

were heard shooting in the neighbourhood of the Fort ten days after they

were repulsed; and one man in particular walked up and down the platform

leading from the gate of the Fort to the Launch for a whole day. Mr.

Fullarton, who was then Governor at Albany, spoke to him in French, and

offered him kind quarters if he chose to accept them; but to those

proposals he made no reply, and only shook his head. Mr. Fullarton then

told him, that unless he would resign himself up as a prisoner, he would

most assuredly shoot him; on which the man advanced nearer the Fort, and

Mr. Fullarton shot him out of his chamber window. Perhaps the hardships

this poor man expected to encounter in his return to Canada, made him

prefer death; but his refusing to receive quarter from so humane and

generous an enemy as the English, is astonishing.

[E] I have seen the remains of those houses several times; they are on

the West side of the harbour, and in all probability will be discernible

for many years to come.

It is rather surprising, that neither Middleton, Ellis, Christopher,

Johnston, nor Garbet, who have all of them been at Marble Island, and

some of them often, ever discovered this harbour; particularly the

last-mentioned gentleman, who actually sailed quite round the island in

a very fine pleasant day in the Summer of 1766. But this discovery was

reserved for a Mr. Joseph Stephens! a man of the least merit I ever

knew, though he then had the command of a vessel called the _Success_,

employed in the whale-fishery; and in the year 1769, had the command of

the _Charlotte_ given to him, a fine brig of one hundred tons; when I

was his mate.

[F] The conditions offered me on this occasion cannot be better

expressed than in the Company's own words, which I have transcribed from

their private letter to me, dated 25th May 1769:

"From the good opinion we entertain of you, and Mr. Norton's

recommendation, we have agreed to raise your wages to £----[18] _per

annum_ for two years, and have placed you in our Council at Prince of

Wales's Fort; and we should have been ready to advance you to the

command of the _Charlotte_, according to your request, if a matter of

more immediate consequence had not intervened.

"Mr. Norton has proposed an inland Journey, far to the North of

Churchill, to promote an extension of our trade, as well as for the

discovery of a North West Passage, Copper Mines, &c.; and as an

undertaking of this nature requires the attention of a person capable of

taking an observation for determining the longitude and latitude, and

also distances, and the course of rivers and their depths, we have fixed

upon you (especially as it is represented to us to be your own

inclination) to conduct this Journey, with proper assistants.

"We therefore hope you will second our expectations in readily

performing this service, and upon your return we shall willingly make

you any acknowledgment suitable to your trouble therein.

"We highly approve of your going in the _Speedwell_, to assist on the

whale-fishery last year, and heartily wish you health and success in the

present expedition.

"We remain your loving Friends,

"BIBYE LAKE, Dep. Gov.

"JOHN ANTHONY MERLE.

"ROBERT MERRY.

"SAMUEL WEGG.

"JAMES WINTER LAKE.

"HERMAN BERENS.

"JOSEPH SPURREL.

"JAMES FITZ GERALD."

The Company had no sooner perused my Journals and Charts, than they

ordered a handsome sum to be placed to the credit of my account; and in

the two first paragraphs of their letter to me, dated 12th May 1773,

they express themselves in the following words:

"Mr. SAMUEL HEARNE,

"SIR,--Your letter of the 28th August last gave us the agreeable

pleasure to hear of your safe return to our Factory. Your

Journal, and the two charts you sent, sufficiently convince us

of your very judicious remarks.

"We have maturely considered your great assiduity in the various

accidents which occurred in your several Journies. We hereby

return you our grateful thanks; and to manifest our obligation

we have consented to allow you a gratuity of £----[19] for those

services."

As a farther proof of the Company's being perfectly satisfied with my

conduct while on that Journey, the Committee unanimously appointed me

Chief of Prince of Wales's Fort in the Summer of 1775; and Mr. Bibye

Lake, who was then Governor, and several others of the Committee,

honoured me with a regular correspondence as long as they lived.

[18] Stated by Beckles Willson to be £130.

[19] Stated by Beckles Willson to be £200.

[G] By the Home-guard Indians we are to understand certain of the

natives who are immediately employed under the protection of the

Company's servants, reside on the plantation, and are employed in

hunting for the Factory.[20]

[20] The Southern or Homeguard Indians here referred to were Crees, one

of the most numerous tribes of the Algonquian family. The Northern

Indians were Chipewyans, a tribe of the Tinné family.

[H] The Calimut is a long ornamented stem of a pipe, much in use among

all the tribes of Indians who know the use of tobacco. It is

particularly used in all cases of ceremony, either in making war or

peace; at all public entertainments, orations, &c.

[I] No convenient opportunity offered during my last Journey, except

one, on the 22d March 1771; and as nothing material had happened during

that part of my Journey, I thought there was not any necessity for

sending an extract of my Journal; I therefore only sent a Letter to the

Governor, informing him of my situation with respect to latitude and

longitude, and some account of the usage which I received from the

natives, &c.

[J] By mistake in my former Journal and Draft called Arathapefcow.

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