attentions of her (then) unworthy lover, _Mr. Eugene Wrayburn_, left
London secretly, with the assistance of Riah—representative of the
honourable firm of Messrs. Pubsey and Co.; that, by his recommendation,
she obtained a situation at a PAPER MILL (then under Jewish management),
at some distance from the Metropolis, and remained for a time undisturbed
in her country employment; that, thereafter, _Eugene Wrayburn_ obtained
her address by bribing the drunken father of “_Jenny Wren_,” the dolls’
dressmaker, and so followed Lizzie to her retreat, being in his turn
watched and followed by the passionate and jealous schoolmaster, _Bradley
Headstone_, who attempted his life on the river bank; that, near at hand,
was the ANGLER’S INN, to which Eugene—nearly dead—was carried by the
heroic and devoted Lizzie, who saved him from a watery grave, and where
“effect was given to the dolls’ dressmaker’s discovery,” one night, some
weeks later, by their romantic marriage, while it was yet doubtful
whether the bridegroom would survive; that the death of _Betty Higden_
occurred “ON THE BORDERS OF OXFORDSHIRE,” near the mill at which _Lizzie
Hexam_ was engaged, Lizzie herself attending the last moments of the
dying woman, and accepting her last request; that in accordance with such
request poor Betty was decently interred in a contiguous churchyard, the
charges being defrayed by her own hard earnings, specially saved for the
purpose; and that, on this occasion, the first meeting of Lizzie and
_Miss Bella Wilfer_ took place, when a very interesting and touching
interview ensued, which greatly assisted Bella in confirmation of a brave
and righteous decision _in re_ money _versus_ love. Also that, at no
great distance from this locality, was situated “PLASHWATER WEIR MILL
LOCK,” where _Rogue Riderhood_ did duty as deputy lock-keeper, and where,
at the last, he and _Bradley Headstone_ were drowned.
These localities are in the neighbourhood of HENLEY, and may be readily
verified by the intelligent Rambler, adopting the excursion by land and
water, as subjoined.
Leaving PADDINGTON TERMINUS of the Great Western Railway, we pass
WESTBOURNE PARK JUNCTION, and the well-arranged grounds of _Kensal Green
Cemetery_ (in which repose the mortal remains of Leigh Hunt, Sidney
Smith, John Leech, and Thackeray) on the right, travelling westward by
the suburban stations of _Acton_, _Ealing_, and _Castle Hill_, and cross
the Wharncliffe Viaduct to HANWELL.
To the left may be seen the handsome building of the MIDDLESEX LUNATIC
ASYLUM. We next arrive at SOUTHALL, and afterwards cross the Grand
Junction Canal to HAYES and WEST DRAYTON. Our train now passes from
Middlesex to Buckinghamshire, and steams onwards in the neighbourhood of
_Langley Park_—seen on the right. The tower of Langley Church may be
observed on the left, rising from the trees, as we speed forward to
SLOUGH, where we obtain a distant glimpse of the Royal Castle of Windsor,
two miles southward.
Resuming the journey we come, in four miles’ run, to the pleasant village
of TAPLOW, on the borders of the Thames (here dividing the counties of
Buckinghamshire and Berkshire), and within easy distance of _Burnham
Beeches_, a favourite picnic resort. The train now crosses the river,
next arriving at MAIDENHEAD, a market town on the Thames. On the right,
observation may be taken of Maidenhead Bridge, a noble erection of
thirteen arches. Thereafter we soon arrive at TWYFORD JUNCTION, where we
change (unless seated in a special through carriage) for Henley, situated
four miles northward, and served by a branch line. The town itself is
very pleasantly situated on the Thames, with an old church and handsome
bridge, but is of special interest to Dickensian students as containing
the INN at which _Mr. Eugene Wrayburn_ found accommodation on the
occasion of his journey in pursuit of Lizzie Hexam. See “Our Mutual
Friend,” book 3, chapter 1, in which Bradley Headstone, returning to
Plashwater Weir, is described as reporting the circumstance to the deputy
lock-keeper—
“‘Lock ho! Lock.’ It was a light night, and a barge coming down
summoned him (Riderhood) out of a long doze. In due course he had
let the barge through and was alone again, looking to the closing of
his gates, when Bradley Headstone appeared before him, standing on
the brink of the Lock. ‘Halloa,’ said Riderhood. ‘Back a’ready,
T’otherest?’ ‘He has put up for the night at an Angler’s Inn,’ was
the fatigued and hoarse reply. ‘He goes on, up the river, at six in
the morning. I have come back for a couple of hours’ rest.’”
The Red Lion Inn thus referred to is situated north of Henley Bridge, on
the west bank of the river, and is a favourite resort for disciples of
Izaak Walton and boating men in general. Here it was that Eugene
Wrayburn—after the murderous attack by the schoolmaster—was brought
almost lifeless by Lizzie, when rescued by her from the river, as
narrated in chapter 6—
“She ran the boat ashore, went into the water, released him from the
line, and by main strength lifted him in her arms and laid him in the
bottom of the boat. He had fearful wounds upon him, and she bound
them up with her dress torn into strips. Else, supposing him to be
still alive, she foresaw that he must bleed to death before he could
be landed at his inn, which was the nearest place for succour. . . .
She rowed hard—rowed desperately, but never wildly—and seldom removed
her eyes from him in the bottom of the boat. She had so laid him
there as that she might see his disfigured face; it was so much
disfigured that his mother might have covered it, but it was above
and beyond disfigurement in her eyes. The boat touched the edge of
inn lawn, sloping gently to the water. There were lights in the
windows, but there chanced to be no one out of doors. She made the
boat fast, and again by main strength took him up, and never laid him
down until she laid him down in the house.”
The landing-place and patch of inn lawn, above indicated, may now be
verified as belonging to the “RED LION” at Henley aforesaid. The lawn is
a favourite standpoint for spectators interested in the HENLEY ROYAL
REGATTA, which takes place every year usually about the beginning of
July.
The marriage of Eugene and Lizzie took place at this same inn some weeks
later, while it was yet uncertain that Eugene would recover; the _Rev.
Frank Milvey_ officiating at the bedside, _Bella_ and her husband, _Mr.
Lightwood_, _Mrs. Milvey_, and _Jenny Wren_ being duly in attendance—
“They all stood round the bed, and Mr. Milvey, opening his book,
began the service, so rarely associated with the shadow of death; so
inseparable in the mind from a flush of life and gaiety and health
and hope and joy. Bella thought how different from her own sunny
little wedding, and wept. Mrs. Milvey overflowed with pity, and wept
too. The dolls’ dressmaker, with her hands before her face, wept in
her golden bower. Reading in a low, clear voice, and bending over
Eugene, who kept his eyes upon him, Mr. Milvey did his office with
suitable simplicity. As the bridegroom could not move his hand, they
touched his fingers with the ring, and so put it on the bride. When
the two plighted their troth, she laid her hand on his, and kept it
there. When the ceremony was done, and all the rest departed from
the room, she drew her arm under his head, and laid her own head down
on the pillow by his side. ‘Undraw the curtains, my dear girl,’ said
Eugene, after a while, ‘and let us see our wedding-day.’ The sun was
rising, and his first rays struck into the room, as she came back and
put her lips to his. ‘I bless the day!’ said Eugene. ‘I bless the
day!’ said Lizzie.”
[The clergyman and friends who assisted on this interesting occasion as
above, left London from Waterloo Station. We may remember that Mrs.
Rokesmith, escorted by Mr. Lightwood, came into town by rail from
Greenwich. Thus they would change trains at WATERLOO JUNCTION, and adopt
the _South-Western Route_ as being the more convenient, travelling to
Reading, and driving thence to Henley. It was at this terminus that
Bradley Headstone first heard (from Mr. Milvey) of the intended wedding,
and was so seriously upset by the news, that an attack of epilepsy ensued
in consequence. We thus read in chapter 11, book 4, with reference to
Bella and her escort:—
“From Greenwich they started directly for London, and in London they
waited at a railway station until such time as the Rev. Frank Milvey,
and Margaretta, his wife, with whom Mortimer Lightwood had been
already in conference, should come and join them. . . . Then the
train rattled among the house-tops, and among the ragged sides of
houses, torn down to make way for it, over the swarming streets, and
under the fruitful earth, until it shot across the river. . . . A
carriage ride succeeded near the solemn river. . . . They drew near
the chamber where Eugene lay.”
This is certainly descriptive of the SOUTH-WESTERN RAILWAY, and is _not_
applicable to the Great Western Route.]
For full particulars the reader is referred to chapter 11, book 4. On
the occasion of Bella Wilfer’s FIRST VISIT to Henley, and the
introduction of the two girls to each other, as narrated in chapter 9,
book 3 (in association with the burial of old Betty Higden), mention is
made of “_the little inn_,” at which Bella’s friends were then
accommodated. This was _not_ the “Red Lion,” but, in all probability,
was The Anchor Inn, a small, but very comfortable hostelry in _Friday
Street_, near the river. Visitors desiring to combine economy with
homeliness, are recommended to follow Miss Wilfer’s lead in this regard,
and commit themselves to the hospitable care of the present landlord.
The Railway Station at Henley is referred to in the last-named chapter as
being near at hand, when “the Rev. Frank and Mrs. Frank, and Sloppy, and
Bella and the Secretary set out to walk to it;” the two last dropping
behind, for a little confidential conversation on the road. We read that
“The railway, at this point knowingly shutting a green eye and
opening a red one, they had to run for it. As Bella could not run
easily so wrapped up, the Secretary had to help her. When she took
her opposite place in the carriage corner, the brightness in her face
was so charming to behold, that on her exclaiming, ‘What beautiful
stars and what a glorious night!’ the Secretary said, ‘Yes,’ but
seemed to prefer to see the night and the stars in the light of her
lovely little countenance, to looking out of window.”
A short walk of five minutes from the station, southward by the riverside
(west bank), will bring the Rambler to The Tow Path, the scene of that
memorable interview between Lizzie and Eugene, recorded in chapter 6,
book 4, as taking place previous to the catastrophe by which Wrayburn
nearly lost his life. The path leads to Marsh Mill, about half a mile
from Henley; a large and important paper mill, now in the occupation of
Mr. Wells, situated near the weir, with its long wooden bridge leading to
the lock. This was the mill at which Lizzie Hexam, secretly leaving
London, found refuge and occupation, on the recommendation of her old
friend Mr. Riah, her worthy employers being a firm of Hebrew nationality.
We first read of this mill in connection with the closing scenes of
_Betty Higden’s_ history, as narrated in chapter 8, book 3, and headed
“The end of a long journey”—
“There now arose in the darkness a great building full of lighted
windows. Smoke was issuing from a high chimney in the rear of it,
and there was the sound of a water-wheel at the side. Between her
and the building lay a piece of water, in which the lighted windows
were reflected, and on its nearest margin was a plantation of trees.
‘I humbly thank the Power and the Glory,’ said Betty Higden, holding
up her withered hands, ‘that I have come to my journey’s end!’”
The Death of Betty here occurred; as, sinking on the ground, and
supporting herself against a tree “whence she could see, beyond some
intervening trees and branches, the lighted windows,” her strength gave
way—
“‘I am safe here,’ was her last benumbed thought. ‘When I am found
dead at the foot of the Cross, it will be by some of my own sort;
some of the working people who work among the lights yonder. I
cannot see the lighted windows now, but they are there. I am
thankful for all!’”
We have the satisfaction of reading that the poor woman’s hopes were
realised, for _Lizzie Hexam_ returning from the mill, found her lying
among the trees as described, and tended her at the last, with helpful
and loving hands—
“A look of thankfulness and triumph lights the worn old face. The
eyes, which have been darkly fixed upon the sky, turn with meaning in
them towards the compassionate face from which the tears are
dropping, and a smile is on the aged lips as they ask, ‘What is your
name, my dear?’ ‘My name is Lizzie Hexam.’ ‘I must be sore
disfigured. Are you afraid to kiss me?’ The answer is, the ready
pressure of her lips upon the cold but smiling mouth. ‘Bless ye!
Now lift me, my love.’ Lizzie Hexam very softly raised the
weather-stained grey head, and lifted her as high as Heaven.”
The Burial, as detailed in the following chapter, must have taken place
in the little churchyard of the contiguous village of SHIPLAKE (about
three-quarters of a mile distant), the service being conducted by the
Rev. Frank Milvey, and attended by the Secretary and poor _Sloppy_ as
mourners.
“A cry for help.” It may be interesting to indicate the local sequence
of events on that memorable Saturday evening, when Bradley Headstone,
impelled by wild resentment and furious jealousy, did his best to murder
his more favoured rival, as described in chapter 6, book 4, under the
above heading. It will be remembered that, on the evening in question,
Eugene Wrayburn having forced an appointment with Lizzie Hexam, met her
on the path by the river, when a very affecting farewell interview
ensued. This interview occurring on the towpath—tolerably secluded at
and after twilight—about halfway between Henley and Marsh (see _Marcus
Stone’s_ Illustration, “The Parting by the River”), Eugene strolled
slowly towards his inn, while Lizzie walked sorrowfully, as a matter of
course, in the opposite direction. We read that, passing Bradley
Headstone (disguised as a bargeman)—
“Eugene Wrayburn went the opposite way, with his hands behind him,
and his purpose in his thoughts. He passed the sheep, and passed the
gate, and came within hearing of the village sounds, and came to the
bridge. The inn where he stayed, like the village and the mill, was
not across the river, but on that side of the stream on which he
walked . . . feeling out of humour for noise or company, he crossed
the bridge, and sauntered on: looking up at the stars as they seemed
one by one to be kindled in the sky, and looking down at the river as
the same stars seemed to be kindled deep in the water. A
landing-place overshadowed by a willow, and a pleasant boat lying
moored there among some stakes, caught his eye as he passed along.”
Thus it will be seen how Eugene, following the _west bank_ of the Thames
to Henley, and thereafter crossing Henley Bridge, pursued the course of
his meditations past the landing-place on the opposite side, walking
onwards by the towpath thence continued, in the direction of POPLAR
POINT.
The Murderous Attack upon him by Headstone, in the darkening shades of
nightfall, must have here occurred, not far from the bridge, and opposite
to the town, Wrayburn being thrown into the river by his assailant, and
so left for dead.
Lizzie Hexam, endeavouring to regain composure, went towards Marsh, and
must have crossed by The Lock Gates to the main road beyond, turning in
the direction of Henley. She thereafter walked slowly onwards in the
neighbourhood of the bridge at its eastern side, and thus unconsciously
came again near to, and following behind, her lover, on the
Eastern Tow Path beyond the bridge, as above mentioned. Hereabouts,
hearing “the sound of blows, a faint groan, and a fall into the river,”
she ran towards the spot from which the sounds had come—not far distant,
on the riverside path, northward from the bridge. We are all familiar
with the story of Lizzie’s heroic rescue of Eugene from the river.
Finding a boat on the north side of HENLEY BRIDGE—
“She passed the scene of the struggle—yonder it was—on her left, well
over the boat’s stern—she passed on her right the end of the village
street (New Street) . . . looking as the boat drove, everywhere,
everywhere for the floating face.”
Finding and recovering the body, she rowed “back against the stream,”
landing at the lawn of the RED LION INN as previously described.
The Rambler may now take a short trip by boat down the river six miles
from Henley, for visiting THE LOCK where _Rogue Riderhood_ acted for a
time, as deputy superintendent.
Leaving HENLEY, we may note, on the left, the mansion of _Fawley Court_,
beyond which, passing REGATTA ISLAND, we arrive at GREENLANDS, in the
occupation of the Right Hon. W. H. Smith (not unknown in political and
literary circles). The house is pleasantly situated at the bend of the
river. We next arrive at _Hambledon Lock_, two miles from Henley;
thereafter reaching ASTON, as we proceed down the stream to MEDMENHAM,
with its picturesque Abbey, founded in the reign of King John, standing
on the north bank. Below Medmenham is Hurley Lock, which is our present
destination. It is contiguous to NEW LOCK WEIR, and to the village of
HURLEY, situated on the right bank of the river. This is known to
readers of “Our Mutual Friend” as Plashwater Weir Mill Lock, at whose
gates _Riderhood_—whilom a “waterside character,” the partner of _Gaffer
Hexam_—officiated as deputy lock-keeper. We are introduced to him as not
very wide-awake in this capacity, in chapter 1, book 4—
“PLASHWATER WEIR MILL LOCK looked tranquil and pretty on an evening
in the summer-time. A soft air stirred the leaves of the fresh green
trees, and passed like a smooth shadow over the river, and like a
smoother shadow over the yielding grass. The voice of the falling
water, like the voices of the sea and the wind, was an outer memory
to a contemplative listener; but not particularly so to Mr.
Riderhood, who sat on one of the blunt wooden levers of his
lock-gates, dozing.”
To this locality came Bradley Headstone, who, for sinister reasons of his
own, cultivated Riderhood’s acquaintance, making The Lock House a
convenient place of call, as he pursued Eugene Wrayburn in his quest,
full details of which may be found in chapters 1 and 7, book 6. Here
also was enacted the final scene of the tragedy, as narrated in chapter
15, book 4, when Bradley Headstone drowned himself and Riderhood in the
Lock—
“Bradley had caught him round the body. He seemed to be girdled with
an iron ring. They were on the brink of the Lock, about midway
between the two sets of gates. . . . ‘Let go!’ said Riderhood.
‘Stop! What are you trying at? You can’t drown me. Ain’t I told
you that the man as has come through drowning can never be drowned?
I can’t be drowned.’ ‘I can be!’ returned Bradley, in a desperate,
clenched voice. ‘I am resolved to be. I’ll hold you living, and
I’ll hold you dead. Come down!’ Riderhood went over into the smooth
pit, backward, and Bradley Headstone upon him. When the two were
found, lying under the ooze and scum behind one of the rotting gates,
Riderhood’s hold had relaxed, probably in falling, and his eyes were
staring upward. But he was girdled still with Bradley’s iron ring,
and the rivets of the iron ring held tight.”
By road, HURLEY LOCK is but four miles distant from Henley; a pedestrian,
therefore, could make an easy short cut, as against a rower up the
stream; hence the assurance given by the deputy lock-keeper to his
impatient visitor (see book 4, chapter 1):—
“‘Ha, ha! Don’t be afeerd, T’otherest,’ said Riderhood. ‘The
T’other’s got to make way agin the stream, and he takes it easy. You
can soon come up with him. But wot’s the good of saying that to you!
You know how fur you could have outwalked him betwixt anywheres about
where he lost the tide—say Richmond—and this, if you had had a mind
to it.’”
Travelling homeward on the return to London, it may be desirable to break
the journey at SLOUGH—eighteen miles from Paddington—whence may be
conveniently visited the rustic village and cemetery of Stoke Pogis,
about a mile and a half northward from the station. The latter contains
the tomb of the poet Gray, and is the scene of his famous “Elegy in a
Country Churchyard.” It may be remembered that from this well-known poem
Mr. Micawber’s Quotation was taken, as an appropriate conclusion to one
of his many friendly but grandiloquent epistles, confirming an important
appointment. In “David Copperfield,” at the end of chapter 49, we read
of Micawber’s expressed determination to unmask his “foxey” employer, and
to crush “to undiscoverable atoms that transcendent and immortal
hypocrite and perjurer, Heep”; and we may recall his “most secret and
confidential letter,” soon afterwards received by David, as containing
the following reference:—
“The duty done, and act of reparation performed, which can alone
enable me to contemplate my fellow mortal, I shall be known no more.
I shall simply require to be deposited in that place of universal
resort, where
‘Each in his narrow cell for ever laid,
The rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep.’
With the plain Inscription,
WILKINS MICAWBER.”
So, as the evening shades prevail, “near and nearer drawn” through “the
glimmering landscape,” we again approach the lights of London Town, with
(it may be hoped) pleasant reminiscences of the foregoing excursions.
Should the Rambler, like Mr. John Harmon on a similar occasion, be
accompanied by a friend, who perchance may be “nearer and dearer than all
other,” he may appropriately endorse John Harmon’s reflections as he made
the same journey under blissful circumstances (see “Our Mutual Friend,”
book 3, end of chapter 9)—
“O, boofer lady, fascinating boofer lady! If I were but legally
executor of Johnny’s will. If I had but the right to pay your legacy
and take your receipt! Something to this purpose surely mingled with
the blast of the train as it cleared the stations, all knowingly
shutting up their green eyes and opening their red ones when they
prepared to let the boofer lady pass.”
RAMBLE IX
_By Great Eastern Route from London to Yarmouth_
Liverpool Street Station—Epping Forest—Buckhurst Hill—Chigwell
Village—Chigwell Churchyard; Resting-Place of Barnaby Rudge and his
Mother—“Grip” the Raven—The “King’s Head Inn”—“The Maypole”—Mr.
Cattermole’s Frontispiece—The Bar—The Landlord, John Willett—Dolly
Varden—The Visit of the Varden Family—The Warren; Residence of Mr.
Haredale and his Niece—By Main Line to Ipswich—The Great White Horse
Hotel in Tavern Street—The Apartment of the Middle-Aged Lady—Mr.
Pickwick’s Misadventure—St. Clement’s Church—Job Trotter—The Green Gate,
Residence of G. Nupkins, Esq.—Mary the Pretty Housemaid—Sam Weller’s
First Love—Ipswich to Great Yarmouth—Mr. Peggotty’s Boat-house—Home of
Little Emily—The Two London Coaches—The “Angel Hotel”—David’s Dinner in
the Coffee-Room—The Friendly Waiter—The “Star Hotel”—Headquarters of
Copperfield and Steerforth—Miss Mowcher’s First Introduction—Unlocalised
Sites—Blundeston—Blunderstone Rookery—Early Childhood of
Copperfield—Somerleyton Park.
A pleasant drive from London to Chigwell is described in chapter 19 of
“Barnaby Rudge,” and may be still taken about twelve miles by road,
starting from Whitechapel Church _viâ_ Mile-End and Bow, thence crossing
the River Lea, and proceeding, in the county of Essex, by way of
_Stratford_, _Leytonstone_, _Snaresbrook_, and _Wilcox Green_. But time
will be saved by adopting a convenient train, leaving Liverpool Street
Station (Great Eastern Railway) for _Buckhurst Hill_—on the Ongar Branch
Line—in the neighbourhood of Epping Forest, a district formerly preserved
by the old monarchs of Merrie England for the enjoyment of field sports
and the pleasures of the chase.