Chapter II

Doomree—Vegetation of table-land—Lieutenant Beadle—Birds—Hot springs of

Soorujkoond—Plants near them—Shells in

them—Cholera-tree—Olibanum—Palms, form of—Dunwah Pass—Trees, native and

planted—Wild peacock—Poppy fields—Geography and geology of Behar and

Central India—Toddy-palm—Ground, temperature of—Barroon—Temperature of

plants—Lizard—Cross the Soane—Sand, ripple marks on—Kymore

hills—Ground, temperature of—Limestone—Rotas fort and palace—Nitrate of

lime—Change of climate—Lime stalagmites, enclosing leaves—Fall of

Soane—Spiders, etc.—Scenery and natural history of upper Soane

valley—_Hardwickia binata_—Bhel

fruit—Dust-storm—Alligator—Catechu—_Cochlospermum_

—Leaf-bellows—Scorpions—Tortoises—Florican—Limestone

spheres—Coles—Tiger-hunt—Robbery.

In the evening we returned to our tamarind tree, and the next morning

regained the trunk road, following it to the dawk bungalow of Doomree.

On the way I found the _Cæsalpinia paniculuta,_ a magnificent climber,

festooning the trues with its dark glossy foliage and gorgeous racemes

of orange blossoms. Receding from the mountain, the country again

became barren: at Doomree the hills were of crystalline rocks, chiefly

quartz and gneiss; no palms or large trees of any kind appeared. The

spear-grass abounded, and a detestable nuisance it was, its long awns

and husked seed working through trowsers and stockings.

_Balanites_ was not uncommon, forming a low thorny bush, with _Ægle

marmelos_ and _Feronia elephantum._ Having rested the tired elephant,

we pushed on in the evening to the next stage, Baghoda, arriving there

at 3 a.m., and after a few hours’ rest, I walked to the bungalow of

Lieutenant Beadle, the surveyor of roads, sixteen miles further.

The country around Baghoda is still very barren, but improves

considerably in going westward, the ground becoming hilly, and the road

winding through prettily wooded valleys, and rising gradually to 1,446

feet. _Nauclea cordifolia,_ a tree resembling a young sycamore, is very

common; with the Semul (_Bombax_), a very striking tree from its

buttressed trunk and gaudy scarlet flowers, swarming with birds, which

feed from its honeyed blossoms.

At 10 a.m. the sun became uncomfortably hot, the thermometer being 77°,

and the black-bulb thermometer 137°. I had lost my hat, and possessed

no substitute but a silken nightcap; so I had to tie a handkerchief

over my head, to the astonishment of the passers-by. Holding my head

down, I had little source of amusement but reading the foot-marks on

the road; and these were strangely diversified to an English eye. Those

of the elephant, camel, buffalo and bullock, horse, ass, pony, dog,

goat, sheep and kid, lizard, wild-cat and pigeon, with men, women, and

children’s feet, naked and shod, were all recognisable.

It was noon ere I arrived at Lieutenant Beadle’s, at Belcuppee (alt.

1,219 feet), glad enough of the hearty welcome I received, being very

hot, dusty, and hungry. The country about his bungalow is very pretty,

from the number of wooded hills and large trees, especially of banyan

and peepul, noble oak-like Mahowa (_Bassia_), _Nauclea,_ Mango, and

_Ficus infectoria._ These are all scattered, however, and do not form

forest, such as in a stunted form clothes the hills, consisting of

_Diospyros, Terminalia, Gmelina, Nauclea parvifolia, Buchanania,_ etc.

The rocks are still hornblende-schist and granite, with a covering of

alluvium, full of quartz pebbles. Insects and birds are numerous, the

latter consisting of jays, crows, doves, sparrows, and maina

(_Pastor_); also the _Phœnicophaus tristis_ (“Mahoka” of the natives),

with a note like that of the English cuckoo, as heard late in the

season. I remained two days with Lieutenant Beadle, enjoying in his

society several excursions to the hot springs, etc. These springs

(called Soorujkoond) are situated close to the road, near the mouth of

a valley, in a remarkably pretty spot. They are, of course, objects of

worship; and a ruined temple stands close behind them, with three very

conspicuous trees—a peepul, a banyan, and a white, thick-stemmed,

leafless _Sterculia,_ whose branches bore dense clusters of greenish

fœtid flowers. The hot springs are four in number, and rise in as many

ruined brick tanks about two yards across. Another tank, fed by a cold

spring, about twice that size, flows between two of the hot, only two

or three paces distant from one of the latter on either hand. All burst

through the gneiss rocks, meet in one stream after a few yards, and are

conducted by bricked canals to a pool of cold water, about eighty yards

off.

The temperatures of the hot springs were respectively 169°, 170°, 173°,

and 190°; of the cold, 84° at 4 p.m., and 75° at 7 a.m. the following

morning. The hottest is the middle of the five. The water of the cold

spring is sweet but not good, and emits gaseous bubbles; it was covered

with a green floating _Conferva._ Of the four hot springs, the most

copious is about three feet deep, bubbles constantly, boils eggs, and

though brilliantly clear, has an exceedingly nauseous taste. This and

the other warm ones cover the bricks and surrounding rocks with a thick

incrustation of salts.

_Confervæ_ abound in the warm stream from the springs, and two species,

one ochreous brown, and the other green, occur on the margins of the

tanks themselves, and in the hottest water; the brown is the best

Salamander, and forms a belt in deeper water than the green; both

appear in broad luxuriant strata, wherever the temp. is cooled down to

168°, and as low as 90°. Of flowering plants, three showed in an

eminent degree a constitution capable of resisting the heat, if not a

predilection for it; these were all _Cyperaceæ,_ a _Cyperus_ and an

_Eleocharis,_ having their roots in water of 100°, and where they are

probably exposed to greater heat, and a _Fimbristylis_ at 98°; all were

very luxuriant. From the edges of the four hot springs I gathered

sixteen species of flowering plants, and from the cold tank five, which

did not grow in the hot. A water-beetle, _Colymbetes_(?) and

_Notonecta,_ abounded in water at 112°, with quantities of dead shells;

frogs were very lively, with live shells, at 90°, and with various

other water beetles. Having no means of detecting the salts of this

water, I bottled some for future analysis.[15]

[15] For an account of the _Confervæ,_ and of the mineral constituents

of the waters, etc. see Appendix B.

On the following day I botanized in the neighbourhood, with but poor

success. An oblique-leaved fig climbs the other trees, and generally

strangles them: two epiphytal _Orchideæ_ also occur on the latter,

_Vanda Roxburghii_ and an _Oberonia._ Dodders (_Cuscuta_) of two

species, and _Cassytha,_ swarm over and conceal the bushes with their

yellow thread-like stems.

I left Belcuppee on the 8th of February, following Mr. Williams’ camp.

The morning was clear and cold, the temperature only 56°. We crossed

the nearly dry broad bed of the Burkutta river, a noble stream during

the rains, carrying along huge boulders of granite and gneiss. Near

this I passed the Cholera-tree, a famous peepul by the road side, so

called from a detachment of infantry having been attacked and decimated

at the spot by that fell disease; it is covered with inscriptions and

votive tokens in the shape of rags, etc. We continued to ascend to

1,360 feet, where I came upon a small forest of the Indian Olibanum

(_Boswellia thurifera_), conspicuous from its pale bark, and spreading

curved branches, leafy at their tips; its general appearance is a good

deal like that of the mountain ash. The gum, celebrated throughout the

East, was flowing abundantly from the trunk, very fragrant and

transparent. The ground was dry, sterile, and rocky; kunker, the

curious formation mentioned at p. 12, appears in the alluvium, which I

had not elsewhere seen at this elevation.

Descending to the village of Burshoot, we lost sight of the

_Boswellia,_ and came upon a magnificent tope of mango, banyan, and

peepul, so far superior to anything hitherto met with, that we were

glad to choose such a pleasant halting-place for breakfast. There are a

few lofty fan-palms here too, great rarities in this soil and

elevation: one, about eighty feet high, towered above some wretched

hovels, displaying the curious proportions of this tribe of palms:

first, a short cone, tapering to one-third the height of the stem, the

trunk then swelling to two-thirds, and again tapering to the crown.

Beyond this, the country again ascends to Burree (alt. 1,169 feet),

another dawk bungalow, a barren place, which we left on the following

morning.

So little was there to observe, that I again amused myself by watching

footsteps, the precision of which in the sandy soil was curious.

Looking down from the elephant, I was interested by seeing them all in

_relief,_ instead of _depressed,_ the slanting rays of the sun in front

producing this kind of mirage. Before us rose no more of those wooded

hills that had been our companions for the last 120 miles, the absence

of which was a sign of the nearly approaching termination of the great

hilly plateau we had been traversing for that distance.

Chorparun, at the top of the Dunwah pass, is situated on an extended

barren flat, 1,320 feet above the sea, and from it the descent from the

table-land to the level of the Soane valley, a little above that of the

Ganges at Patna, is very sudden. The road is carried zizgag down a

rugged hill of gneiss, with a descent of nearly 1000 feet in six miles,

of which 600 are exceedingly steep. The pass is well wooded, with

abundance of bamboo, _Bombax, Cassia, Acacia,_ and _Butea,_ with

_Calotropis,_ the purple Mudar, a very handsome road-side plant, which

I had not seen before, but which, with the _Argemone Mexicana,_ was to

be a companion for hundreds of miles farther. All the views in the pass

are very picturesque, though wanting in good foliage, such as _Ficus_

would afford, of which I did not see one tree. Indeed the rarity of the

genus (except _F. infectoria_) in the native woods of these hills, is

very remarkable. The banyan and peepul always appear to be planted, as

do the tamarind and mango.

Dunwah, at the foot of the pass, is 620 feet above the sea, and nearly

1000 below the mean level of the highland I had been traversing. Every

thing bears here a better aspect; the woods at the foot of the hills

afforded many plants; the bamboo (_B. stricta_) is green instead of

yellow and white; a little castor-oil is cultivated, and the Indian

date (low and stunted) appears about the cottages.

In the woods I heard and saw the wild peacock for the first time. Its

voice is not to be distinguished from that of the tame bird in England,

a curious instance of the perpetuation of character under widely

different circumstances, for the crow of the wild jungle-fowl does not

rival that of the farm-yard cock.

In the evening we left Dunwah for Barah (alt. 480 feet), passing over

very barren soil, covered with low jungle, the original woods having

apparently been cut for fuel. Our elephant, a timid animal, came on a

drove of camels in the dark by the road-side, and in his alarm insisted

on doing battle, tearing through the thorny jungle, regardless of the

mahout, and still more of me: the uproar raised by the camel-drivers

was ridiculous, and the danger to my barometer imminent.

We proceeded on the 11th of February to Sheergotty, where Mr. Williams

and his camp were awaiting our arrival. Wherever cultivation appeared

the crops were tolerably luxuriant, but a great deal of the country

yielded scarcely half-a-dozen kinds of plants to any ten square yards

of ground. The most prevalent were _Carissa carandas, Olax scandens,_

two _Zizyphi,_ and the ever-present _Acacia Catechu._ The climate is,

however, warmer and much moister, for I here observed dew to be formed,

which I afterwards found to be usual on the low grounds. That its

presence is due to the increased amount of vapour in the atmosphere I

shall prove: the amount of radiation, as shown by the cooling of the

earth and vegetation, being the same in the elevated plain and lower

levels.[16]

[16] See Appendix C.

The good soil was very richly cultivated with poppy (which I had not

seen before), sugar-cane, wheat, barley, mustard, rape, and flax. At a

distance a field of poppies looks like a green lake, studded with white

water-lilies. The houses, too, are better, and have tiled roofs; while,

in such situations, the road is lined with trees.

A retrospect of the ground passed over is unsatisfactory, as far as

botany is concerned, except as showing how potent are the effects of a

dry soil and climate during one season of the year upon a vegetation

which has no desert types. During the rains probably many more species

would be obtained, for of annuals I scarcely found twenty. At that

season, however, the jungles of Behar and Birbhoom, though far from

tropically luxuriant, are singularly unhealthy.

In a geographical point of view the range of hills between Burdwan and

the Soave is interesting, as being the north-east continuation of a

chain which crosses the broadest part of the peninsula of India, from

the Gulf of Cambay to the junction of the Ganges and Hoogly at

Rajmahal. This range runs south of the Soane and Kymore, which it meets

I believe at Omerkuntuk;[17] the granite of this and the sandstone of

the other, being there both overlaid with trap. Further west again, the

ranges separate, the southern still betraying a nucleus of granite,

forming the Satpur range, which divides the valley of the Taptee from

that of the Nerbudda. The Paras-nath range is, though the most

difficult of definition, the longer of the two parallel ranges; the

Vindhya continued as the Kymore, terminating abruptly at the Fort of

Chunar on the Ganges. The general and geological features of the two,

especially along their eastern course, are very different. This

consists of metamorphic gneiss, in various highly inclined beds,

through which granite hills protrude, the loftiest of which is

Paras-nath. The north-east Vindhya (called Kymore), on the other hand,

consists of nearly horizontal beds of sandstone, overlying inclined

beds of non-fossiliferous limestone. Between the latter and the

Paras-nath gneiss, come (in order of superposition) shivered and

undulating strata of metamorphic quartz, hornstone, hornstone-porphyry,

jaspers, etc. These are thrown up, by greenstone I believe, along the

north and north-west boundary of the gneiss range, and are to be

recognised as forming the rocks of Colgong, of Sultangunj, and of

Monghyr, on the Ganges, as also various detached hills near Gyah, and

along the upper course of the Soane. From these are derived the

beautiful agates and cornelians, so famous under the name of Soane

pebbles, and they are equally common on the Curruckpore range, as on

the south bank of the Soane, so much so in the former position as to

have been used in the decoration of the walls of the now ruined palaces

near Bhagulpore.

[17] A lofty mountain said to be 7000-8000 feet high.

In the route I had taken, I had crossed the eastern extremity alone of

the range, commencing with a very gradual ascent, over the alluvial

plains of the west bank of the Hoogly, then over laterite, succeeded by

sandstone of the Indian coal era, which is succeeded by the granite

table-land, properly so called. A little beyond the coal fields, the

table-land reaches an average height of 1,130 feet, which is continued

for upwards of 100 miles, to the Dunwah pass. Here the descent is

sudden to plains, which, continuous with those of the Ganges, run up

the Soane till beyond Rotasghur. Except for the occasional ridges of

metamorphic rocks mentioned above, and some hills of intruded

greenstone, the lower plain is stoneless, its subjacent rocks being

covered with a thicker stratum of the same alluvium which is thinly

spread over the higher table-land above. This range is of great

interest from its being the source of many important rivers,[18] and of

all those which water the country between the Soane, Hoogly, and

Ganges, as well as from its deflecting the course of the latter river,

which washes its base at Rajmahal, and forcing it to take a sinuous

course to the sea. In its climate and botany it differs equally from

the Gangetic plains to the north, and from the hot, damp, and exuberant

forests of Orissa to the south. Nor are its geological features less

different, or its concomitant and in part resultant characters of

agriculture and native population. Still further west, the great rivers

of the peninsula have their origin, the Nerbudda and Taptee flowing

west to the gulf of Cambay, the Cane to the Jumna, the Soane to the

Ganges, and the northern feeders of the Godavery to the Bay of Bengal.

[18] The chief rivers from this, the great watershed of western

Bengal, flow north-west and south-east; a few comparatively

insignificant streams running north to the Ganges. Amongst the former

are the Rheru, the Kunner, and the Coyle, which contribute to the

Soane; amongst the latter, the Dammooda, Adji, and Barakah, flow into

the Hoogly, and the Subunrika, Braminee, and Mahanuddee into the Bay

of Bengal.

On the 12th of February, we left Sheergotty (alt. 463 feet), crossing

some small streams, which, like all else seen since leaving the Dunwah

Pass, flow N. to the Ganges. Between Sheergotty and the Soane, occur

many of the isolated hills of greenstone, mentioned above, better known

to the traveller from having been telegraphic stations. Some are much

impregnated with iron, and whether for their colour, the curious

outlines of many, or their position, form quaint, and in some cases

picturesque features in the otherwise tame landscape.

The road being highly cultivated, and the Date-palm becoming more

abundant, we encamped in a grove of these trees. All were curiously

distorted; the trunks growing zigzag, from the practice of yearly

tapping the alternate sides for toddy. The incision is just below the

crown, and slopes upwards and inwards: a vessel is hung below the

wound, and the juice conducted into it by a little piece of bamboo.

This operation spoils the fruit, which, though eaten, is small, and

much inferior to the African date.

At Mudunpore (alt. 440 feet) a thermometer, sunk 3 feet 4 inches in the

soil, maintained a constant temperature of 71·5°, that of the air

varying from 77·5°, at 3 p.m., to 62 at daylight the following morning;

when we moved on to Nourunga (alt. 340 feet), where I bored to 3 feet 8

inches with a heavy iron jumper through an alluvium of such excessive

tenacity, that eight natives were employed for four hours in the

operation. In both this and another hole, 4 feet 8 inches, the

temperature was 72° at 10 p.m.; and on the following morning 71·5° in

the deepest hole, and 70° in the shallower: that of the external air

varied from 71° at 3 p.m., to 57° at daylight on the following morning.

At the latter time I took the temperature of the earth near the

surface, which showed,

Surface 53° 1 inch 57° 2 inches 58° 4 inches 62° 7

inches 64°

The following day we marched to Baroon (alt. 345 feet) on the alluvial

banks of the Soane, crossing a deep stream by a pretty suspension

bridge, of which the piers were visible two miles off, so level is the

road. The Soane is here three miles wide, its nearly dry bed being a

desert of sand, resembling a vast arm of the sea when the tide is out:

the banks are very barren, with no trees near, and but very few in the

distance. The houses were scarcely visible on the opposite side, behind

which the Kymore mountains rise. The Soane is a classical river, being

now satisfactorily identified with the Eranoboas of the ancients.[19]

[19] The etymology of Eranoboas is undoubtedly _Hierrinia Vahu_

(Sanskrit), the golden-armed. Sons is also the Sanskrit for _gold._

The stream is celebrated for its agates (Soane pebbles), which are

common, but gold is not now obtained from it.

The alluvium is here cut into a cliff, ten or twelve feet above the bed

of the river, and against it the sand is blown in naked _dunes._ At 2

p.m., the surface-sand was heated to 110° where sheltered from the

wind, and 104° in the open bed of the river. To compare the rapidity

and depth to which the heat is communicated by pure sand, and by the

tough alluvium, I took the temperature at some inches depth in both.

That the alluvium absorbs the heat better, and retains it longer, would

appear from the following, the only observations I could make, owing to

the tenacity of the soil.

2 p.m. Surface 104° 2·5 inches 93° 5 inches 88° Sand at

this depth 78° 5 a.m. Surface 51° 28 inches 68·5°

Finding the fresh milky juice of _Calotropis_ to be only 72°, I was

curious to ascertain at what depth this temperature was to be obtained

in the sand of the river-bed, where the plant grew.

Surface 104·5° 1 inch 102° 2 inches 94° 2·5 inches 90° 3·5

inches 85° (Compact) 8 inches 73° (Wet) 15

inches 72° (Wet)

The power this plant exercises of maintaining a low temperature of 72°,

though the main portion which is subterraneous is surrounded by a soil

heated to between 90° and 104°, is very remarkable, and no doubt

proximately due to the rapidity of evaporation from the foliage, and

consequent activity in the circulation. Its exposed leaves maintained a

temperature of 80°, nearly 25° cooler than the similarly exposed sand

and alluvium. On the same night the leaves were cooled down to 54°,

when the sand had cooled to 51°. Before daylight the following morning

the sand had cooled to 43°, and the leaves of the _Calotropis_ to

45·5°. I omitted to observe the temperature of the sap at the latter

time; but the sand at the same depth (15 inches) as that at which its

temperature and that of the plant agreed at mid-day, was 68°. And

assuming this to be the heat of the plant, we find that the leaves are

heated by solar radiation during the day 8°, and cooled by nocturnal

radiation, 22·5°.

Mr. Theobald (my companion in this and many other rambles) pulled a

lizard from a hole in the bank. Its throat was mottled with scales of

brown and yellow. Three ticks had fastened on it, each of a size

covering three or four scales: the first was yellow, corresponding with

the yellow colour of the animal’s belly, where it lodged, the second

brown, from the lizard’s head; but the third, which was clinging to the

parti-coloured scales of the neck, had its body parti-coloured, the

hues corresponding with the individual scales which they covered. The

adaptation of the two first specimens in colour to the parts to which

they adhered, is sufficiently remarkable; but the third case was most

extraordinary.

During the night of the 14th of February, I observed a beautiful

display, apparently of the Aurora borealis, an account of which will be

found in the Appendix.

_February 15._—Our passage through the Soane sands was very tedious,

though accomplished in excellent style, the elephants pushing forward

the heavy waggons of mining tools with their foreheads. The wheels were

sometimes buried to the axles in sand, and the draught bullocks were

rather in the way than otherwise. The body of water over which we

ferried, was not above 80 yards wide. In the rains, when the whole

space of three miles is one rapid flood, 10 or 12 feet deep, charged

with yellow sand, this river must present an imposing spectacle. I

walked across the dry portion, observing the sand-waves, all ranged in

one direction, perpendicular to that of the prevailing wind, accurately

representing the undulations of the ocean, as seen from a mast-head or

high cliff. As the sand was finer or coarser, so did the surface

resemble a gentle ripple, or an ocean-swell. The progressive motion of

the waves was curious, and caused by the lighter particles being blown

over the ridges, and filling up the hollows to leeward. There were a

few islets in the sand, a kind of oases of mud and clay, in laminæ no

thicker than paper, and these were at once denizened by various weeds.

Some large spots were green with wheat and barley-crops, both suffering

from smut. We encamped close to the western shore, at the village of

Dearee (alt. 330 feet); it marks the termination of the Kymore Hills,

along whose S.E. bases our course now lay, as we here quitted the grand

trunk road for a rarely visited country. On the 16th we marched south

up the river to Tilotho (alt. 395 feet), through a rich and highly

cultivated country, covered with indigo, cotton, sugar-cane, safflower,

castor-oil, poppy, and various grains. Dodders (_Cuscuta_) covered even

tall trees with a golden web, and the _Capparis acuminata_ was in full

flower along the road side. Tilotho, a beautiful village, is situated

in a superb grove of Mango, Banyan, Peepul, Tamarind, and _Bassia._ The

Date or toddy-palm and fan-palm are very abundant and tall: each had a

pot hung under the crown. The natives climb these trunks with a hoop or

cord round the body and both ancles, and a bottle-gourd or other vessel

hanging round the neck to receive the juice from the stock-bottle, in

this aerial wine-cellar. These palms were so lofty that the climbers,

as they paused in their ascent to gaze with wonder at our large

retinue, resembled monkeys rather than men. Both trees yield a toddy,

but in this district they stated that that from the _Phœnix_ (Date)

alone ferments, and is distilled; while in other parts of India, the

_Borassus_ (fan-palm) is chiefly employed. I walked to the hills, over

a level cultivated country interspersed with occasional belts of low

wood; in which the pensile nests of the weaver-bird were abundant, but

generally hanging out of reach, in prickly _Acacias._

The hills here present a straight precipitous wall of horizontally

stratified sandstone, very like the rocks at the Cape of Good Hope,

with occasionally a shallow valley, and a slope of débris at the base,

densely clothed with dry jungle. The cliffs are about 1000 feet high,

and the plants similar to those at the foot of Paras-nath, but stunted:

I climbed to the top, the latter part by steps or ledges of sandstone.

The summit was clothed with long grass, trees of _Diospyros_ and

_Terminalia,_ and here and there the _Boswellia._ On the precipitous

rocks the curious white-barked _Sterculia fœtida_ “flung its arms

abroad,” leafless, and looking as if blasted by lightning.

A hole was sunk here again for the thermometers, and, as usual, with

great labour; the temperatures obtained were—

Air. 4 feet 6 inches,

under good shade

of trees 9 p.m. 64·5° 77° 11 p.m. 76° 5.30

a.m. 58·5° 76°

This is a very great rise (of 4°) above any of those previously

obtained, and certainly indicates a much higher mean temperature of the

locality. I can only suppose it due to the radiation of heat from the

long range of sandstone cliff, exposed to the south, which overlooks

the flat whereon we were encamped, and which, though four or five miles

off, forms a very important feature. The differences of temperature in

the shade taken on this and the other side of the river are 2·75°

higher on this side.

On the 17th we marched to Akbarpore (alt. 400 feet), a village overhung

by the rocky precipice of Rotasghur, a spur of the Kymore, standing

abruptly forward.

The range, in proceeding up the Soane valley, gradually approaches the

river, and beds of non-fossiliferous limestone are seen protruding

below the sandstone and occasionally rising into rounded hills, the

paths upon which appear as white as do those through the chalk

districts of England. The overlying beds of sandstone are nearly

horizontal, or with a dip to the N.W.; the subjacent ones of limestone

dip at a greater angle. Passing between the river and a detached

conical hill of limestone, capped with a flat mass of sandstone, the

spur of Rotas broke suddenly on the view, and very grand it was, quite

realising my anticipations of the position of these eyrie-like

hill-forts of India. To the left of the spur winds the valley of the

Soane, with low-wooded hills on its opposite bank, and a higher range,

connected with that of Behar, in the distance. To the right, the hills

sweep round, forming an immense and beautifully wooded amphitheatre,

about four miles deep, bounded with a continuation of the escarpment.

At the foot of the crowned spur is the village of Akbarpore, where we

encamped in a Mango tope;[20] it occupies some pretty undulating

limestone hills, amongst which several streams flow from the

amphitheatre to the Soane. During our two days’ stay here, I had the

advantage of the society of Mr. C. E. Davis, who was our guide during

some rambles in the neighbourhood, and to whose experience, founded on

the best habits of observation, I am indebted for much information. At

noon we started to ascend to the palace, on the top of the spur. On the

way we passed a beautiful well, sixty feet deep, and with a fine flight

of steps to the bottom. Now neglected and overgrown with flowering

weeds and creepers, it afforded me many of the plants I had only

previously obtained in a withered state; it was curious to observe

there some of the species of the hill-tops, whose seeds doubtless are

scattered abundantly over the surrounding plains, and only vegetate

where they find a coolness and moisture resembling that of the altitude

they elsewhere affect. A fine fig-tree growing out of the stone-work

spread its leafy green branches over the well mouth, which was about

twelve feet square; its roots assumed a singular form, enveloping two

sides of the walls with a beautiful net-work, which at _high-water

mark_ (rainy season), abruptly divides into thousands of little

brushes, dipping into the water which they fringe. It was a pretty cool

place to descend to, from a temperature of 80° above, to 74° at the

bottom, where the water was 60°; and most refreshing to look, either up

the shaft to the green fig shadowing the deep profound, or along the

sloping steps through a vista of flowering herbs and climbing plants,

to the blue heaven of a burning sky.

[20] On the 24th of June, 1848, the Soane rose to an unprecedented

height, and laid this grove of Mangos three feet under water.

The ascent to Rotas is over the dry hills of limestone, covered with a

scrubby brushwood, to a crest where are the first rude and ruined

defences. The limestone is succeeded by the sandstone cliff cut into

steps, which led from ledge to ledge and gap to gap, well guarded with

walls and an archway of solid masonry. Through this we passed on to the

flat summit of the Kymore hills, covered with grass and forest,

intersected by paths in all directions. The ascent is about 1,200

feet—a long pull in the blazing sun of February. The turf consists

chiefly of spear-grass and _Andropogon muricatus,_ the kus-kus, which

yields a favourite fragrant oil, used as a medicine in India. The trees

are of the kinds mentioned before. A pretty octagonal summer-house,

with its roof supported by pillars, occupies one of the highest points

of the plateau, and commands a superb view of the scenery before

described. From this a walk of three miles leads through the woods to

the palace. The buildings are very extensive, and though now ruinous,

bear evidence of great beauty in the architecture: light galleries,

supported by slender columns, long cool arcades, screened squares and

terraced walks, are the principal features. The rooms open out upon

flat roofs, commanding views of the long endless table-land to the

west, and a sheer precipice of 1000 feet on the other side, with the

Soane, the amphitheatre of hills, and the village of Akbarpore below.

This and Beejaghur, higher up the Soane, were amongst the most recently

reduced forts, and this was further the last of those wrested from

Baber in 1542. Some of the rooms are still habitable, but the greater

part are ruinous, and covered with climbers, both of wild flowers and

of the naturalised garden plants of the adjoining shrubbery; the

_Arbor-tristis,_ with _Hibiscus, Abutilon,_ etc., and above all, the

little yellow-flowered _Linaria ramosissima,_ crawling over every

ruined wall, as we see the walls of our old English castles clothed

with its congener _L. Cymbalaria._

In the old dark stables I observed the soil to be covered with a

copious evanescent efflorescence of nitrate of lime, like soap-suds

scattered about.

I made Rotas Palace 1,490 feet above the sea, so that this table-land

is here only fifty feet higher than that I had crossed on the grand

trunk road, before descending at the Dunwah pass. Its mean temperature

is of course considerably (4°) below that of the valley, but though so

cool, agues prevail after the rains. The extremes of temperature are

less marked than in the valley, which becomes excessively heated, and

where hot winds sometimes last for a week, blowing in furious gusts.

The climate of the whole neighbourhood has of late changed materially;

and the fall of rain has much diminished, consequent on felling the

forests; even within six years the hail-storms have been far less

frequent and violent. The air on the hills is highly electrical, owing,

no doubt, to the dryness of the atmosphere, and to this the frequent

recurrence of hail-storms may be due.

The zoology of these regions is tolerably copious, but little is known

of the natural history of a great part of the plateau; a native tribe,

prone to human sacrifices, is talked of. Tigers are common, and bears

are numerous; they have, besides, the leopard, panther, viverine cat,

and civet; and of the dog tribe the pariah, jackal, fox, and wild dog,

called Koa. Deer are very numerous, of six or seven kinds. A small

alligator inhabits the hill streams, said to be a very different animal

from either of the Soane species.

During our descent we examined several instances of ripple-mark (fossil

waves’ footsteps) in the sandstone; they resembled the fluting of the

_Sigillaria_ stems, in the coal-measures, and occurring as they did

here, in sandstone, a little above great beds of limestone, had been

taken for such, and as indications of coal.

On the following day we visited Rajghat, a steep ghat or pass leading

up the cliff to Rotas Palace, a little higher up the river. We took the

elephants to the mouth of the glen, where we dismounted, and whence we

followed a stream abounding in small fish and aquatic insects

(_Dytisci_ and _Gyrini_), through a close jungle, to the foot of the

cliffs, where there are indications of coal. The woods were full of

monkeys, and amongst other plants I observed _Murraya exotica,_ but it

was scarce. Though the jungle was so dense, the woods were very dry,

containing no Palm, _Adroideæ,_ Peppers, _Orchideæ_ or Ferns. Here, at

the foot of the red cliffs, which towered imposingly above, as seen

through the tree tops, are several small seams of coaly matter in the

sandstone, with abundance of pyrites, sulphur, and copious

efflorescences of salts of iron; but no coal. The springs from the

cliffs above are charged with lime, of which enormous tuff beds are

deposited on the sandstone, full of impressions of the leaves and stems

of the surrounding trees, which, however, I found it very difficult to

recognize, and could not help contrasting this circumstance with the

fact that geologists, unskilled in botany, see no difficulty in

referring equally imperfect remains of extinct vegetables to existing

genera. In some parts of their course the streams take up quantities of

the efflorescence, which they scatter over the sandstones in a singular

manner.

At Akbarpore I had sunk two thermometers, one 4 feet 6 inches, the

other 5 feet 6 inches; both invariably indicated 76°, the air varying

from 56° to 79·5°. Dew had formed every night since leaving Dunwah, the

grass being here cooled 12° below the air.

On the 19th of February we marched up the Soane to Tura, passing some

low hills of limestone, between the cliffs of the Kymore and the river.

On the shaded riverbanks grew abundance of English genera—_Cynoglossum,

Veronica, Potentilla, Ranunculus sceleratus, Rumex,_ several herbaceous

_Compositæ_ and _Labiatæ_; _Tamarix_ formed a small bush in rocky

hillocks in the bed of the river, and in pools were several aquatic

plants, _Zannichellia, Chara,_ a pretty little _Vallisneria,_ and

_Potamogeton._ The Brahminee goose was common here, and we usually saw

in the morning immense flocks of wild geese overhead, migrating

northward.

Here I tried again the effect of solar and nocturnal radiation on the

sand, at different depths, not being able to do so on the alluvium.

Noon,

Temperature

of air, 87° Daylight of

following

morning Surface 110° 52° 1 inch 102° 55° 2

inches 93·5° 58° 4 inches 84° 67° 8 inches 77° sand

wet 73° wet 12 inches 76° sand wet 74°

From Tura our little army again crossed the Soane, the scarped cliffs

of the Kymore approaching close to the river on the west side. The bed

is very sandy, and about one mile and a half across.

The elephants were employed again, as at Baroon, to push the cart: one

of them had a bump in consequence, as large as a child’s head, just

above the trunk, and bleeding much; but the brave beast disregarded

this, when the word of command was given by his driver.

The stream was very narrow, but deep and rapid, obstructed with beds of

coarse agate, jasper, cornelian and chalcedony pebbles. A clumsy boat

took us across to the village of Soanepore, a wretched collection of

hovels. The crops were thin and poor, and I saw no palms or good trees.

Squirrels however abounded, and were busy laying up their stores;

descending from the trees they scoured across a road to a field of

tares, mounted the hedge, took an observation, foraged and returned up

the tree with their booty, quickly descended, and repeated the

operation of reconnoitering and plundering.

The bed of the river is here considerably above that at Dearee, where

the mean of the observations with those of Baroon, made it about 300

feet. The mean of those taken here and on the opposite side, at Tura,

gives about 400 feet, indicating a fall of 100 feet in only 40 miles.

Near this the sandy banks of the Soane were full of martins’ nests,

each one containing a pair of eggs. The deserted ones were literally

crammed full of long-legged spiders (_Opilio_), which could be raked

out with a stick, when they came pouring down the cliff like corn from

a sack; the quantities are quite inconceivable. I did not observe the

martin feed on them.

The entomology here resembled that of Europe, more than I had expected

in a tropical country, where predaceous beetles, at least _Carabideæ_

and _Staphylinideæ,_ are generally considered rare. The latter tribes

swarmed under the clods, of many species but all small, and so

singularly active that I could not give the time to collect many. In

the banks again, the round egg-like earthy chrysalis of the _Sphynx

Atropos_ (?) and the many-celled nidus of the leaf-cutter bee, were

very common.

A large columnar _Euphorbia_ (_E. ligulata_) is common all along the

Soane, and I observed it to be used everywhere for fencing. I had not

remarked the _E. neriifolia_; and the _E. tereticaulis_ had been very

rarely seen since leaving Calcutta. The _Cactus_ is nowhere found; it

is abundant in many parts of Bengal, but certainly not indigenous.

[Illustration: Crossing the Soane, with the Kymore Hills in the

distance]

From this place onwards up the Soane, there was no road of any kind,

and we were compelled to be our own road engineers. The sameness of

the vegetation and lateness of the season made me regret this the

less, for I was disappointed in my anticipations of finding

luxuriance and novelty in these wilds. Before us the valley narrowed

considerably, the forest became denser, the country on the south side

was broken with rounded hills, and on the north the noble cliffs of

the Kymore dipped down to the river. The villages were smaller, more

scattered and poverty-stricken, with the Mahowa and Mango as the

usual trees; the banyan, peepul, and tamarind being rare. The native,

are of an aboriginal jungle race; and are tall, athletic, erect, much

less indolent and more spirited than the listless natives of the

plains.

_February 21._—Started at daylight: but so slow and difficult was our

progress through fields and woods, and across deep gorges from the

hills, that we only advanced five miles in the day; the elephant’s head

too was aching too badly to let him push, and the cattle would not

proceed when the draught was not equal. What was worse, it was

impossible to get them to pull together up the inclined planes we cut,

except by placing a man at the head of each of the six, eight, or ten

in a team, and simultaneously screwing round their tails; when one

tortured animal sometimes capsizes the vehicle. The small carts got on

better, though it was most nervous to see them rushing down the steeps,

especially those with our fragile instruments, etc.

Kosdera, where we halted, is a pretty place, elevated 440 feet, with a

broad stream front the hills flowing past it. These hills are of

limestone, and rounded, resting upon others of hornstone and jasper.

Following up the stream I came to some rapids, where the stream is

crossed by large beds of hornstone and porphyry rocks, excessively

hard, and pitched up at right angles, or with a bold dip to the north.

The number of strata was very great, and only a few inches or even

lines thick: they presented all varieties of jasper, hornstone, and

quartz of numerous colours, with occasional seams of porphyry or

breccia. The racks were elegantly fringed with a fern I had not

hitherto seen, _Polypodium proliferum,_ which is the only species the

Soane valley presents at this season.

Returning over the hills, I found _Hardwickia binata,_ a most elegant

leguminous tree, tall, erect, with an elongated coma, and the branches

pendulous. These trees grew in a shallow bed of alluvium, enclosing

abundance of agate pebbles and kunker, the former derived from the

quartzy strata above noticed.

On the 23rd and 24th we continued to follow up the Soane, first to

Panchadurma (alt. 490 feet), and thence to Pepura (alt. 587 feet), the

country becoming densely wooded, very wild, and picturesque, the woods

being full of monkeys, parrots, peacocks, hornbills, and wild animals.

_Strychnos potatorum,_ whose berries are used to purify water, forms a

dense foliaged tree, 30 to 60 feet high, some individuals pale yellow,

others deep green, both in apparent health. _Feronia Elephantum_ and

_Ægle marmelos_[21] were very abundant, with _Sterculia,_ and the dwarf

date-palm.

[21] The Bhel fruit, lately introduced into English medical practice,

as an astringent of great effect, in cases of diarrhœa and dysentery.

One of my carts was here hopelessly broken down; advancing on the

spokes instead of the tire of the wheels. By the banks of a deep gully

here the rocks are well exposed: they consist of soft clay shales

resting on the limestone, which is nearly horizontal; and this again,

unconformably on the quartz and hornstone rocks, which are confused,

and tilted up at all angles.

A spur of the Kymore, like that of Rotas, here projects to the bed of

the river, and was blazing at night with the beacon-like fires of the

natives, lighted to scare the tigers and bears from the spots where

they cut wood and bamboo; they afforded a splendid spectacle, the

flames in some places leaping zig-zag from hill to hill in front of us,

and looking as if a gigantic letter W were written in fire.

The night was bright and clear, with much lightning, the latter

attracted to the spur, and darting down as it were to mingle its fire

with that of the forest; so many flashes appeared to strike on the

flames, that it is probable the heated air in their neighbourhood

attracted them. We were awakened between 3 and 4 a.m., by a violent

dust-storm, which threatened to carry away the tents. Our position at

the mouth of the gulley formed by the opposite hills, no doubt

accounted for it. The gusts were so furious that it was impossible to

observe the barometer, which I returned to its case on ascertaining

that any indications of a rise or fall in the column must have been

quite trifling. The night had been oppressively hot, with many insects

flying about; amongst which I noticed earwigs, a genus erroneously

supposed rarely to take to the wing in Britain.

At 8.30 a.m. it suddenly fell calm, and we proceeded to Chanchee (alt.

500 feet), the native carts breaking down in their passage over the

projecting beds of flinty rocks, or as they burned down the inclined

planes we cut through the precipitous clay banks of the streams. Near

Chanchee we passed an alligator, just killed by two men, a foul beast,

about nine feet long, of the mugger kind. More absorbing than its

natural history was the circumstance of its having swallowed a child,

that was playing in the water as its mother was washing her utensils in

the river. The brute was hardly dead, much distended by the prey, and

the mother was standing beside it. A very touching group was this: the

parent with her hands clasped in agony, unable to withdraw her eyes

from the cursed reptile, which still clung to life with that tenacity

for which its tribe are so conspicuous; beside these the two athletes

leaned on the bloody bamboo staffs, with which they had all but

despatched the animal.

This poor woman earned a scanty maintenance by making catechu:

inhabiting a little cottage, and having no property but two cattle to

bring wood from the hills, and a very few household chattels; and how

few of these they only know who have seen the meagre furniture of Danga

hovels. Her husband cut the trees in the forest and dragged them to the

hut, but at this time he was sick, and her only boy, her future stay,

it was, whom the beast had devoured.

This province is famous for the quantity of catechu its dry forests

yield. The plant (_Acacia_) is a little thorny tree, erect, and bearing

a rounded head of well remembered prickly branches. Its wood is yellow,

with a dark brick-red heart, most profitable in January and useless in

June (for yielding the extract).

The _Butea frondosa_ was abundantly in flower here, and a gorgeous

sight. In mass the inflorescence resembles sheets of flame, and

individually the flowers are eminently beautiful, the bright orange-red

petals contrasting brilliantly against the jet-black velvety calyx. The

nest of the _Megachile_ (leaf-cutter bee) was in thousands in the

cliffs, with Mayflies, Caddis-worms, spiders, and many predaceous

beetles. Lamellicorn beetles were very rare, even _Aphodius,_ and of

_Cetoniæ_ I did not see one.

[Illustration: Soane Valley and Kymore Hills. <i>Cochlospermum

gossypium</i> and <i>Butea frondosa</i> in flower.]

We marched on the 28th to Kota, at the junction of the river of that

name with the Soane, over hills of flinty rock, which projected

everywhere, to the utter ruin of the elephants’ feet, and then over

undulating hills of limestone; on the latter I found trees of

_Cochlospermum,_ whose curious thick branches spread out somewhat

awkwardly, each tipped with a cluster of golden yellow flowers, as

large as the palm of the hand, and very beautiful: it is a tropical

Gum-Cistus in the appearance and texture of the petals, and their frail

nature. The bark abounds in a transparent gum, of which the white ants

seem fond, for they had killed many trees. Of the leaves the curious

rude leaf-bellows are made, with which the natives of these hills smelt

iron. Scorpions appeared very common here, of a small kind, 1.5 inch

long; several were captured, and one of our party was stung on the

finger; the smart was burning for an hour or two, and then ceased.

At Kota we were nearly opposite the cliffs at Beejaghur, where coal is

reported to exist; and here we again crossed the Soane, and for the

last time. The ford is three miles up the river, and we marched to it

through deep sand. The bed of the river is here 500 feet above the sea,

and about three-quarters of a mile broad, the rapid stream being 50 or

60 yards wide, and breast deep. The sand is firm and siliceous, with no

mica; nodules of coal are said to be washed down thus far from the

coal-beds of Burdee, a good deal higher up, but we saw none.

The cliffs come close to the river on the opposite side, their bases

clothed with woods which teemed with birds. The soil is richer, and

individual trees, especially of _Bombax, Terminalia_ and _Mahowa,_ very

fine; one tree of the _Hardwickia,_ about 120 feet high, was as

handsome a monarch of the forest as I ever saw, and it is not often

that one sees trees in the tropics, which for a combination of beauty

in outline, harmony of colour, and arrangement of branches and foliage,

would form so striking an addition to an English park.

There is a large break in the Kymore hills here, beyond the village of

Kunch, through which our route lay to Beejaghur, and the Ganges at

Mirzapore; the cliff’s leaving the river and trending to the north in a

continuous escarpment flanked with low ranges of rounded hills, and

terminating in an abrupt spur (Mungeesa Peak) whose summit was covered

with a ragged forest. At Kunch we saw four alligators sleeping in the

river, looking at a distance like logs of wood, all of the short-nosed

or mugger kind, dreaded by man and beast; I saw none of the

sharp-shouted (or garial), so common on the Ganges, where their long

bills, with a garniture of teeth and prominent eyes peeping out of the

water, remind one of geological lectures and visions of _Ichthyosauri._

Tortoises were frequent in the river, basking on the rocks, and popping

into the water when approached.

On the 1st of March we left the Soane, and struck inland over a rough

hilly country, covered with forest, fully 1000 feet below the top of

the Kymore table-land, which here recedes from the river and surrounds

an undulating plain, some ten miles either way, facing the south. The

roads, or rather pathways, were very bad, and quite impassable for the

carts without much engineering, cutting through forest, smoothing down

the banks of the watercourses to be crossed, and clearing away the

rocks as we best might. We traversed the empty bed of a mountain

torrent, with perpendicular banks of alluvium 30 feet high, and thence

plunged into a dense forest. Our course was directed towards Mungeesa

Peak, the remarkable projecting spur, between which and a conical hill

the path led. Whether on the elephants or on foot, the thorny jujubes,

_Acacias,_ etc. were most troublesome, and all our previous scratchings

were nothing to this. Peacocks and jungle-fowl were very frequent, the

squabbling of the former and the hooting of the monkeys constantly

grating on the ear. There were innumerable pigeons and a few Floricans

(a kind of bustard—considered the best eating game-bird in India). From

the defile we emerged on an open flat, halting at Sulkun, a scattered

village (alt. 684 feet), peopled by a bold-looking race (Coles)[22] who

habitually carry the spear and shield. We had here the pleasure of

meeting Mr. Felle, an English gentleman employed in the Revenue

department; this being one of the roads along which the natives

transport their salt, sugar, etc., from one province to another.

[22] The Coles, like the Danghas of the Rajmahal and Behar hills, and

the natives of the mountains of the peninsula, form one of the

aboriginal tribes of British India, and are widely different people

from either the Hindoos or Mussulmen.

In the afternoon, I examined the conical hill, which, like that near

Rotas, is of stratified beds of limestone, capped with sandstone. A

stream runs round its base, cutting through the alluvium to the

subjacent rock, which is exposed, and contains flattened spheres of

limestone. These spheres are from the size of a fist to a child’s head,

or even much larger; they are excessively hard, and neither laminated

nor formed of concentric layers. At the top of the hill the sandstone

cap was perpendicular on all sides, and its dry top covered with small

trees, especially of _Cochlospermum._ A few larger trees of _Fici_

clung to the edge of the rocks, and by forcing their roots into the

interstices detached enormous masses, affording good dens for bears and

other wild animals. From the top, the view of rock, river, forest, and

plain, was very fine, the eye ranging over a broad flat, girt by

precipitous hills;—West, the Kymore or Vindhya range rose again in

rugged elevations; South, flowed the Soane, backed by ranges of wooded

hills, smoking like volcanos with the fires of the natives;—below, lay

the bed of the stream we had left at the foot of the hills, cutting its

way through the alluvium, and following a deep gorge to the Soane,

which was there hidden by the rugged heights we had crossed, on which

the greater part of our camp might be seen still straggling

onwards;—east, and close above us, the bold spur of Mungeesa shot up,

terminating a continuous stretch of red precipices, clothed with forest

along their bases, and over their horizontal tops.

From Sulkun the view of the famed fort and palace of Beejaghur is very

singular, planted on the summit of an isolated hill of sandstone, about

ten miles off. A large tree by the palace marks its site; for, at this

distance, the buildings are themselves undistinguishable.

There are many tigers on these hills; and as one was close by, and had

killed several cattle, Mr. Felle kindly offered us a chance of slaying

him. Bullocks are tethered out, over-night, in the places likely to be

visited by the brute; he kills one of them, and is from the spot

tracked to his haunt by natives, who visit the stations early in the

morning, and report the whereabouts of his lair. The sportsman then

goes to the attack mounted on an elephant, or having a _roost_ fixed in

a tree, on the trail of the tiger, and he employs some hundred natives

to drive the animal past the lurking-place.

On the present occasion, the locale of the tiger was doubtful; but it

was thought that by beating over several miles of country he (or at any

rate, some other game) might be driven past a certain spot. Thither,

accordingly, the natives were sent, who built machans (stages) in the

trees, high out of danger’s reach; Mr. Theobald and myself occupied one

of these perches in a _Hardwickia_ tree, and Mr. Felle another, close

by, both on the slope of a steep hill, surrounded by jungly valleys. We

were also well thatched in with leafy boughs, to prevent the wary beast

from espying the ambush, and had a whole stand of shall arms ready for

his reception.

When roosted aloft, and duly charged to keep profound silence (which I

obeyed to the letter, by falling sound asleep), the word was passed to

the beaters, who surrounded our post on the plain-side, extending some

miles in line, and full two or three distant from us. They entered the

jungle, beating tom-toms, singing and shouting as they advanced, and

converging towards our position. In the noonday solitude of these vast

forests, our situation was romantic enough: there was not a breath of

wind, an insect or bird stirring; and the wild cries of the men, and

the hollow sound of the drums broke upon the ear from a great distance,

gradually swelling and falling, as the natives ascended the heights or

crossed the valleys. After about an hour and a half, the beaters

emerged from the jungle under our retreat; one by one, two by two, but

preceded by no single living thing, either mouse, bird, deer, or bear,

and much less tiger. The beaters received about a penny a-piece for the

day’s work; a rich guerdon for these poor wretches, whom necessity

sometimes drives to feed on rats and offal.

We were detained three days at Sulkun, from inability to get on with

the carts; and as the pass over the Kymore to the north (on the way to

Mirzapore) was to be still worse, I took advantage of Mr. Felle’s kind

offer of camels and elephants to make the best of my way forward,

accompanying that gentleman, _en route,_ to his residence at Shahgunj,

on the table-land.

Both the climate and natural history of this flat on which Sulkun

stands, are similar to those of the banks of the Soane; the crops are

wretched. At this season the dryness of the atmosphere is excessive:

our nails cracked, and skins peeled, whilst all articles of wood,

tortoiseshell, etc., broke on the slightest blow. The air, too, was

always highly electrical, and the dew-point was frequently 40° below

the temperature of the air.

The natives are far from honest: they robbed one of the tents placed

between two others, wherein a light was burning. One gentleman in it

was awake, and on turning saw five men at his bedside, who escaped with

a bag of booty, in the shape of clothes, and a tempting strong

brass-bound box, containing private letters. The clothes they dropped

outside, but the box of letters was carried off. There were about a

hundred people asleep outside the tents, between whose many fires the

rogues must have passed, eluding also the guard, who were, or ought to

have been, awake.

Himalayan Journals — Complete Or, Notes of a Naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, etc. · 第 2 / 32 章