15th May.
Not being satisfied to land the horses on a shore devoid of water, I
determined to attempt a landing in a small sandy cove in the high rocky
shore on the west of the bay, which we had been afraid to enter during
the gale on the 12th. Leaving the ship with two boats and provisions for
the day, we pulled for the little cove about four miles distant, bearing
west by north. For the first three miles the soundings did not show less
than three fathoms, with an even sandy bottom, the last mile shoaling
gradually to the beach; the landing being easily effected, as there now
was but little surf. The shore was found to be generally very sandy, a
low flat valley extending from the head of the cove across the isthmus
about two miles to Mermaid Strait, where it terminated in a muddy
mangrove creek. In about half an hour several wells were found, some
containing rather brackish water, but one, about eight feet deep, in a
hollow under a steep range of bare volcanic and granite hills, not more
than 200 yards from the beach, was found to contain an abundant supply of
good water; grass being plentiful and of fine quality in the valleys
under the hills. Our principal requirements being now satisfied, it only
remained to bring the ship in near enough to land the horses. On our
return to the Dolphin we found that she had been visited by two natives,
who had paddled off on logs of wood, shaped like canoes, not hollow, but
very bouyant, about seven feet long and one foot thick, which they
propelled with their hands only, their legs resting on a little rail made
of small sticks driven in on each side. At first they were afraid to come
on board, but on friendly signs being made, they ascended the ladder that
had been put down for them. They were both fine-looking men, of about
forty years of age, above the middle stature, one measuring six feet four
inches, and the other five feet eight inches; their hair straight and
black, teeth regular, and general features characteristic of the tribes
on the west coast; their bodies were rather more spare, and had not on
them a vestige of clothing. The Champion Bay dialect was quite
incomprehensible to them; they, however, knew the use of both biscuit and
tobacco, some of which was given them. After remaining several hours on
board, they took their departure for the eastern shore of the bay,
distant at least six miles, promising by signs to repeat their visit the
next day. It is worthy of remark that neither of these natives were
circumcised, or had lost the front teeth, as is common on this coast
further to the eastward. Their fearlessness and confidence in the good
faith of Europeans would lead to the impression that this was not their
first acquaintance with vessels on the coast. It was not far from this
place that Captain P.P. King had a visit from natives similarly equipped
more than forty years ago. While on shore to-day several new and very
beautiful plants and flowers were observed, amongst them one in
particular, which, without exception, is the handsomest shrub I have ever
seen in Australia; in form the plant resembles a large chandelier, with a
series of branches springing from a centre stem in sets of five each; on
these are short erect stems a few inches apart, carrying five beautiful
deep crimson dragon flowers, nearly three inches in length, grouped like
lustres, producing a very gorgeous effect; the leaves of the plant are
elegantly formed, like those of the mountain ash, and are of a rich
green. A purple flowering bean, the seeds of which are the size of the
English horse-bean, is here found in abundance, and are eaten by the
natives. Melons similar to those formerly seen by me on the Gascoyne,
several varieties of brachychiton, a small variety of the adansonia,
three or four different kinds of convolvulus (one of which runs along the
sands near the beach with arms sometimes as much as forty yards in
length), acacias, sterculia, and a variety of eucalyptus resembling a
stunted red-gum, are also found growing among the hills in small
quantities.