CHAPTER XVII

WHITE ELEPHANTS

Siam has been called the "Land of the White Elephant," and no account of

the country would be complete which failed to take notice of these

peculiar animals. The national flag is a white elephant on a scarlet

ground; the mercantile flag is a white elephant on a blue ground; and on

every temple and official building this wonderful creature is fashioned

in stone, wood, and plaster.

In former days the King did not feel himself fully a king unless he

possessed a white elephant, and he never hesitated about undertaking a

war in order to obtain one of these rare animals. There is a story that

Gautama was once a white elephant, and that his mother, in a dream, met

him in heaven in that shape. Another legend says that now and again in

the world's history a monarch appears who conquers and rules every

nation under the sun. This monarch is known by certain signs, and by the

possession of certain objects. Of seven particular things that he owns,

a white elephant is one, and without a white elephant he could not

become king of the world. Then many of the Siamese believe that the

animal is inhabited by the soul of some great man of the past, or by

that of someone yet unborn, who will in due time be a person of great

distinction.

In former years no subject was allowed to keep a white elephant. If by

chance he found one, he hastened to present it to the King. If he dared

to try to keep it for himself, the King made war upon him and took it

away by force.

Strictly speaking, there is no such thing as a white elephant. The

animal is not really white, but only a little lighter in colour than the

ordinary elephant. Occasionally it is of the colour of dirty bath brick,

and it may have a few white hairs on its tail or its head.

The news of the discovery of a white elephant always produced great joy

in the people and the King. The King sent a body of nobles and princes

to the place where the animal had been found, and where he was tethered

by silken cords. The ambassadors guarded the quadruped while

professional elephant-tamers taught it how to behave in the presence of

men and in the streets of a town. People went from all parts of the

country to visit it and take it presents.

Meanwhile, in the capital, a palace was rapidly erected for the sublime

animal. When the palace was finished and the taming of the elephant

completed, a stately procession set out to meet it and bring it home.

The King headed the procession, and when he met the elephant he knelt

before it and gave it presents, after which he turned round and led the

way back to the capital. In the elephant's new residence there was a

wardrobe for his clothes, and covers of velvet and silk embroidered with

gold and jewels. On his head was fastened a gold plate bearing his name

and titles. He had a troupe of slaves and a party of priests, an

orchestra of musicians, and a number of dancing-girls, all specially set

apart for his instruction and amusement. When the elephant wanted to

sleep, the priests chanted slumber-songs; when he looked lively and

wakeful, the dancing-girls sang and danced to him. When he was hungry,

he was fed with the finest fruits and vegetables. As a rule this life of

laziness and luxury soon brought about his death.

Only about thirty years ago, a party of hunters who were looking for

white elephants saw in the distance an elephant of excellent shape and

size, but of no particular colour. On examining it a little closer, they

fancied that it might be one of that rare kind for which they were

seeking. They took him away and washed the mud off him, and them to

their intense joy, they found that not only was he light in colour, but

that on his back there were a few hairs that were positively white. The

country went wild with joy. Bangkok was decorated with flags, and

illuminated at night. All the place was gay with banners, lights, and

music. The King went to meet the animal, and the priests read a long and

flattering address to it.

The priests then baptized the animal and gave him his new name and

titles, which were very numerous, and which were written on a piece of

sugar-cane; this the elephant promptly swallowed. It was probably the

only part of the ceremony that gave him any pleasure. He was taken to

his new apartment, and there fed by kneeling servants, who offered him

food on dishes made of silver.

Things are much changed now. When the last white elephant was

discovered, he was sent to Bangkok on a railway-truck. There was no

guard of honour, no procession, and the King only went to visit him when

he was lodged in the stables. On the way to the palace the new-comer

behaved himself very badly by walking up to a fruit-seller's stall--the

first it had ever seen--and eating up everything that was on it, almost

before the attendants had had time to notice what he was doing.

Nowadays, the white elephants are badly fed by miserable grooms. They no

longer have either priests or dancing-girls. The walls of their stables

are half in ruins, and the roofs are covered with dirt of great age and

thickness. Their food is only hay, leaves, and young bamboos. By the

side of each elephant is a cage; this is intended for a white monkey,

the fit and proper companion for the white elephant. But as white

monkeys are more rare than white elephants, all these cages are empty.

Once a year each elephant is sprinkled with holy water by the priests,

and is made to listen to a number of long prayers. This is done to keep

away evil spirits, and so successful is the operation that it only needs

repeating once in twelve months. When one of the elephants dies, they

bring a white monkey, a few doctors, and a few priests, to visit the

deceased. By his side they dig a hole in the ground, in which incense is

burned. The body is covered with a white cloth, and then taken out of

the town and left to rot in a field. Later on the bones and tusks are

collected and preserved. For three days after the death of the quadruped

a number of priests remain praying in the stable, requesting the spirit

of the animal not to come back again and do any damage.

Peeps at Many Lands: Siam · 第 17 / 18 章