CHAPTER XII

FOOD AND DRESS

The third necessary room in a Siamese house is the kitchen, where the

two daily meals are prepared. There are no cooking-ranges and no

fireplaces of European pattern. Food is cooked and water boiled over

small charcoal furnaces, usually made of earthenware. The little furnace

has the shape of a bucket. Half-way down there is a tray perforated with

holes, on which the charcoal is placed. Below the shelf, in one side of

the utensil, there is a hole. A draught is obtained by waving a fan

backwards and forwards in front of this hole. The air enters through the

aperture, ascends through the openings in the shelf, and so keeps the

lighted charcoal glowing. The earthenware pots in which the food is

cooked are supported by the top rim of the furnace. Every pot requires a

separate furnace to itself, but as rice is often the only food that

requires the application of heat, this causes but little difficulty,

and few kitchens would contain more than two or three of these simple

fireplaces.

The chief food is rice. This is washed three or four times in different

changes of water, and then placed in cold water over the charcoal fire.

As soon as the water boils, it is poured away, and the cooking is

finished in the steam of the water left behind. When everything is

ready, the rice is turned out into a dish; each grain is swollen to

quite a large size, is dry, and as white as snow.

With the rice various kinds of curry are eaten. They are made from

vegetables, fruit, and fish. Frog, decayed prawns, stale fish, and other

choice morsels figure in the menu. All the curries are highly flavoured

with vinegar, pepper, and strong-tasting spices. The Siamese are so

accustomed to these highly flavoured dishes that they would look upon a

meal of turkey and plum-pudding as utterly tasteless and insipid. One of

the sauces in common use contains chillies, stale prawns, black pepper,

garlic, onions, citron-juice, ginger, and brine!

When the members of the family sit down to take a meal, they squat on

the floor. A big bowl of rice is placed in the centre of the ring, and

round it are arranged smaller basins of curry. Everybody helps himself,

so that the fastest eater gets the biggest share. Forks and knives are

not used, and very often spoons also are lacking. In such cases fingers

take the place of spoons, and they seem to serve the purpose equally

well. Of course, the fingers get greasy and sticky, but they can be put

in the mouth and licked clean again quite easily and quickly.

Each member of the family knows how to cook--father, mother, and

children--for there are few dishes to prepare, and the preparation of

these is an art soon acquired. Two meals only are taken each day--one in

the morning and another in the early evening. Between whiles tea is

drunk, tobacco is smoked, and betel-nut is chewed. The hours for meals

are rather irregular, and often the hungry members do not wait for those

whose appetites are less keen, but begin as soon as ever the rice is

boiled. Amongst the rich the men eat first and by themselves. What they

leave serves for their wives and children, and the last remnants of all

are thrown to the dogs.

As dessert there are many kinds of fruit, some of which are unknown in

this country. Amongst the most popular fruits are young coco-nuts; the

ripest of bananas; mangoes, that taste at first like a mixture of

turpentine and carrots, but which, after a few efforts, are found to be

as pleasant to the palate as the apple or the pear; mangosteens--little

sweet snow-white balls set in crimson caskets; durians, that smell like

bad drains, but taste, when one is used to them, like a mixture of

strawberries, ices, honey, and all other things that are pleasant to

eat.

When the meal is over, each person washes his own rice-bowl, and turns

it upside down in a basket in the corner of the room to drip and dry

till it is needed again.

Dress is a very simple matter. There are no such things as fashions. The

smallest children wear no clothing at all, except, perhaps, a necklace

of coral or beads. The garment worn as a covering for the lower part of

the body is the same for all--King and peasant, man, woman, and child.

As seen in pictures and photographs, it resembles a pair of baggy

knickerbockers. It consists of a long strip of coloured cloth, about the

same size and shape as a bath-towel. The method of draping it about the

body is not easily explained on paper. This much, however, may be said:

there are no pins, tapes, buttons, or fastenings of any kind; but the

_panoong_, as it is called, is so cleverly twisted and tied, that it can

be worn at all times and under all circumstances without any fear of it

ever becoming loose. You may run in it, sleep in it, or swim in it, and

you will always be perfectly cool and comfortable. This is the only

native garment for men, though in the capital, and in other places where

white men are seen, the people have learned to wear white linen jackets.

These are buttoned to the throat, and collars and shirts are not

required. Shoes and stockings are not known, except where the European

has taught their use. The soles of the feet get so hard that, in time,

they are like leather itself, and cut or wounded feet are very seldom

seen.

The women wear a coloured scarf, called the _pahom_, wound round the

upper part of the body. This is the only addition to the costume of the

men ever invented by the ladies of Siam. As for hats, there are no such

things, except a few big straw-plaited erections that look like baskets

turned upside down, and which are worn by the women who sit selling

their goods in the markets.

The _panoong_ and the _pahom_ are of brightly coloured material, and a

Siamese crowd is always a picturesque sight. According to one of the

many superstitions that prevail in the country, every day of the week is

under the rule of some particular planet, and to be fortunate throughout

the day one should wear garments and jewels of the same colour as the

ruling planet. Many rich people do actually observe this custom, and

wear red silk and rubies on Sundays in honour of the sun; white and

moonstones on Monday, the day of the moon; light red and coral on

Tuesday, the day of Mars; green and emeralds on Wednesday, the day of

Jupiter; stripes and cat's-eyes for Jupiter's Thursday; silver blue and

diamonds on Friday, when Venus rules; and dark blue and sapphires on

Saturday, when the chief planet is Saturn.

Peeps at Many Lands: Siam · 第 12 / 18 章