CHAPTER XI

HOUSES

The houses are built of wood, and are raised above the ground on piles,

so that when the rainy season comes and the plains are flooded, the

floors are left high and dry. In the dry season the cattle are stabled

under the houses. A stable under your bedroom is not perhaps the

pleasantest arrangement that could be imagined, but in parts of the

country there are bands of robbers who spend their evenings in stealing

cattle. When the robbers try to move the animals, the animals make a

noise, wake the owner, and give him a chance to prevent the theft. When

the country is flooded, the pony, who is generally a pet, is led up an

inclined plane to the little veranda, where it lives and is treated as a

member of the family.

[Illustration: MOUNT PRABHAT. _Page 48._]

The chief woods used in building houses are teak and bamboo. Teak is a

very hard wood. It is not affected by damp, and resists the attacks of

the so-called "white ant."

The floors of the native houses are made of teak planks, or more usually

of plaited bamboo. Through the holes that are left, the air comes up

from below, keeping the rooms cool, but at the same time filling them

with most unpleasant odours. A great deal of the ordinary domestic

refuse is got rid of by the simple plan of pushing it through the holes

in the floor, and leaving it to rot in the space between the house and

the ground.

Fortunately for the health of the inhabitants, pariah dogs abound

everywhere. They feed chiefly on this refuse, thus playing the part of

scavengers. The pariahs have no owners, and no one takes any care or

notice of them. They are thin and bony, frightfully ugly, fond of

barking at all hours of the day or the night, but not given to biting,

for they are thorough cowards. A hundred of them would run away from a

small boy, provided he had a big stick in his hand.

The number of rooms in the house is always an odd one, for even numbers

are considered unlucky. A small house would contain at least three

rooms, which we may call the drawing-room, the bedroom, and the kitchen.

The third of these rooms will be described in the next chapter.

The drawing-room contains no chairs, tables, pianos, or pictures. In

fact, it contains no furniture of any kind, with perhaps the exception

of a few mats on the floor, on which the people sit. When visitors

call, they are offered tea in tiny cups that hold about as much as a big

table-spoon. This tea, which is taken without milk or sugar, is of a

beautiful light golden colour, and has a faint but pleasant and

refreshing odour. The chief thing offered to the visitor is betel-nut,

the fruit of the tall, slender areca-palm. So important a part does the

betel-nut play in the daily life of the native, that, if possible, a

house is always built near a grove of areca-palms, in order that there

may be a never-failing supply of the nut. Betel is not eaten alone, but

with a mixture of turmeric, seri-leaf, lime, and tobacco. Chewing betel

produces copious supplies of blood-red saliva. If this is ejected upon

wood or stone, it leaves nasty rusty-red stains that cannot be removed

even by the most diligent scrubbing. Hence a spittoon is a very

necessary domestic article. Everybody chews; everybody possesses

spittoons. You will see them by the side of the mother rocking the

cradle, by the side of the teacher in the school, by the side of the

judge in the law courts, by the side of the priest as he chants his

matin or evensong in the temple, by the side of the King as he sits upon

his throne.

In time, the teeth become coal-black. They are then regarded as being

much more beautiful than when they were white. A native saying runs:

"Any dog can have white teeth." In Bangkok the American dentists keep

supplies of false black teeth, and when a prince or a nobleman loses one

of his own teeth, he can buy another black one and so not spoil his

appearance.

The second room of the house is the bedroom, which is also used as a

lumber-room, and where, if anyone be ill, a number of gilded images of

Buddha will be found. There are no bedsteads. People sleep on a kind of

mat placed on the floor. This is surrounded by curtains to keep out the

mosquitoes. Sleep would be quite impossible without some form of

protection against the bites of these wicked little creatures.

When lying down, the head must not point to the west. The sun dies his

daily death in that part of the heavens, and the west is therefore an

unlucky direction. The sleeper must lie pointing north and south, and

then he will be quite sure of complete freedom from evil spirits and

angry demons during the dark hours of the night.

The walls and floors of the houses, as we have seen, are made of wood.

The roofs are thatched with the leaf of the attap-palm. In the dry

season every part of the dwelling becomes excessively dry. A stray spark

will often set on fire one of these houses of grass and wood, and then,

one after another, other habitations fall a prey to the flames. There is

no fire brigade, and it would not be of any use if there were one, for

there is no public water-supply. When a fire breaks out, soldiers are

sent to the scene of the disaster, armed, not with rifles, but with

hatchets. As quickly as they can, they chop down a great many houses in

the neighbourhood of those that are on fire, and in this way prevent the

spread of the flames.

The Siamese are a cleanly people as far as their bodies are concerned.

They bathe at least two or three times a day, but their houses are never

cleaned. Cobwebs grow thicker and thicker with dust, till they look

like ropes; insects of all kinds multiply without interference;

mosquito-nets become so caked with dirt that it is a wonder any

respectable mosquito ever wishes to go inside; floors are never

scrubbed; walls are never dusted. There is no such process as

spring-cleaning, except when a fire performs the deed, and sweeps away

house, refuse, and vermin, all at one and the same time.

Peeps at Many Lands: Siam · 第 11 / 18 章