When Maximilien Robespierre came up from Arras--where he had resigned

his functions in the Criminal Court, because of his conscientious

objections to capital punishment--he found squalid quarters, suiting

his purse--which remained empty all through life--in Rue Saintonge.

That street, named for a province of old France, remains almost as he

saw it, one of the few Paris streets that retain their original

buildings and ancient atmosphere. The high and sombre house, wherein

he lodged from October, 1789, to July, 1791, is quite unaltered, save

for its number, which was then 8 and is now 64. From here, Robespierre

was snatched away, suddenly and without premeditation on his part, and

planted in the bosom of the Duplay family. They had worshipped him

from afar, and when, from their windows, they saw him surrounded by

the acclaiming crowd, on the day after the so-called massacres of the

Champ-de-Mars of July 17, 1791, the peaceful carpenter ran out and

dragged the shrinking great man into his court-yard for temporary

shelter. The house was then No. 366 Rue Saint-Honoré. If any reader

wishes to decide for himself whether the modern No. 398 is built on

the site of the Duplay house, of which no stone is left, as M. Ernest

Hamel asserts; or whether the present tall structure there is an

elevation on the walls of the old house, every stone of which is left,

as M. Sardou insists; he must study the pamphlets issued by these

earnest and erudite controversialists. There is nothing more

delightful in topographical sparring. The authors of this book can

give no aid to the solicitous student; for they have read all that has

been written concerning the subject, they have explored the house,

and they have settled in silence in the opposing camps!

In the Duplay household, to which he brought misery then and

afterward, Robespierre was worshipped during life and deified after

death. To that misguided family, "this cat's head, with the prominent

cheekbones, seamed by small-pox; his bilious complexion; his green

eyes rimmed with red, behind blue spectacles; his harsh voice; his

dry, pedantic, snappish, imperious language; his disdainful carriage;

his convulsive gestures--all this was effaced, recast, and transformed

into the gentle figure of an apostle and a martyr to his faith for the

salvation of men." From their house, it was but a step to the sittings

of the Assembly. It was but a few steps farther to the garden of the

Tuileries and to the "_fête de l'Être Suprême_," planned by him, when

he had induced the Convention to decree the existence of God and of an

immortal soul in man. He cast himself for the rôle of High Priest of

Heaven, and headed the procession on June 8, 1794, clad in a blue

velvet coat, a white waistcoat, yellow breeches and top-boots;

carrying in his hand flowers and wheat-ears. He addressed the crowd,

in "the scraggiest prophetic discourse ever uttered by man," and they

had games, and burned in effigy Atheism and Selfishness and Vice! Such

of the stage-setting of this farce as was constructed in stone remains

intact to-day, for our wonder at such childishness, and our admiration

of the architectural perfection of the out-of-door arena.

From this Duplay house, Robespierre used to go on his solitary

strolls, accompanied only by his dogs, in the woods of Monceaux and

Montmorenci, where he picked wild-flowers. From this house he went to

his last appearance in the Convention on the _9 Thermidor_, and past

it he was carted to the scaffold, on the following day, July 28, 1794.

He had followed Danton within a few months, as Danton had predicted.

They were of the same age at the time of their death, each having

thirty-five years; the younger Robespierre was thirty-two, Saint-Just

was twenty-six, Desmoulins thirty-four, when their heads fell.

Mirabeau died at the age of forty-two, Marat was forty-nine when

stabbed. Not one of the conspicuous leaders of the Revolution and of

the Terror had come to fifty years!

[Illustration: The Carré d'Atalante in the Tuileries Gardens.]

When the tumbrils and their burdens did not go along the quays to

Place de la Révolution, they went through Rue Saint-Honoré, that being

the only thoroughfare on that side of the river. From the

Conciergerie they crossed Pont au Change, and made their way by narrow

and devious turnings to the eastern end of Rue Saint-Honoré, and

through its length to Rue du Chemin-du-Rempart--now Rue Royale--and so

to the scaffold. Short Rue Saint-Florentin was then Rue de

l'Orangerie, and was crowded by sightseers hurrying to the _place_.

Those of the victims not already confined in the Conciergerie were

sent to the condemned cells there, for the night between sentence and

execution. The trustworthy history of the prisons of Paris during the

Revolution remains to be written, and there is wealth of material for

it. There were many smaller prisons not commonly known, and of the

larger ones that we do know, there are several, quite unchanged

to-day, well worth unofficial inspection. The Salpêtrière, filling a

vast space south of the Jardin des Plantes, was built for the

manufacture of saltpetre, by Louis XIII.; and, by his son, was

converted into a branch, for women, of the General Hospital. A portion

of its buildings was set apart for young women of bad character, and

here Manon Lescaut was imprisoned. The great establishment is now

known as the Hôpital de la Salpêtrière, and is famous for its

treatment of women afflicted with nervous maladies, and with insanity.

The present Hospice de la Maternité was also perverted to prison

usages during the Revolution. Its formal cloisters and steep tiled

roofs cluster about its old-time square, but its ancient gardens, and

their great trees, are almost all buried beneath new masonry. The

façade of the chapel, the work of Lepautre, is no longer used as the

entrance, and may be seen over the wall on Boulevard de Port-Royal.

Another prison was that of Saint-Lazare, first a lazar-house and then

a convent, whose weather-worn roofs and dormers show above the wall on

Rue du Faubourg-Saint-Denis. On the dingy yellow plaster of the arched

entrance-gate one may read, in thick black letters: "_Maison d'Arrêt

et de Correction._" Unaltered, too, is the prison in the grounds of

the Carmelites, to be visited later in company with Dumas; and the

Luxembourg, that was reserved for choice captives. The prison of the

Abbey of Saint-Germain was swept away by the boulevard of that name.

Its main entrance for wheeled vehicles was through Rue Sainte-Marguerite,

the short section left of that street being now named Gozlin. Of the

other buildings of the abbey, there remain only the church itself, the

bishop's palace behind in Rue de l'Abbaye, and the presbytery glued to

the southern side of the church-porch. Its windows saw the massacres

of the priests and the prisoners, which took place on the steps of the

church and in its front court. When you walk from those steps across

the open _place_, to take the tram for Fontenay-aux-Roses, you step

above soil that was soaked with blood in the early days of September,

1792. Some few of the abbey prisoners were slaughtered in the garden,

of which a portion remains on the south side of the church, where the

statue of Bernard Palissy, by Barrias, stands now. In other chapters,

the destruction of the Grand-and the Petit-Châtelet has been noted.

La Force has gone, and Sainte-Pélagie is soon to go. And the

Conciergerie has been altered, almost beyond recognition, as to its

entrances and its courts and its cells. Only the Cour des Femmes

remains at all as it was in those days.

There are three victims of the Terror who have had the unstinted pity

of later generations, and who have happily left traces of their

presence on Paris brick and mortar. The last of these three to die was

André-Marie de Chénier, and we will go first to his dwelling. It is an

oddly shaped house, No. 97 Rue de Cléry--Corneille's street for many

years--at its junction with Rue Beauregard; and a tablet in its wall

tells of de Chénier's residence there. Born in Constantinople in 1762,

of a French father--a man of genius in mercantile affairs--and a Greek

mother, the boy was brought to Paris with his younger brother,

Joseph-Marie, in 1767. They lived with their mother in various streets

in the Marais, before settling in this final home. Here Madame de

Chénier, a poet and artist in spirit, filled the rooms with the poets

and artists and _savants_ of the time, the friends of her gifted sons.

Hither came David, gross of body, his active mind busied with schemes

for his annual exhibitions of paintings, the continuation of those

begun by Colbert, and the progenitor of the present _Salons_; Alfieri,

the poet and splendid adventurer; Lavoisier, absorbed in chemical

discovery. Here in his earlier years, and later, when he hurried home

from the French Embassy in London on the outbreak of the Revolution,

André de Chénier produced the verse that revived the love of nature,

dead in France since Ronsard, and brought a lyric freshness to poetry

that shamed the dry artificialities so long in vogue. That poetry was

the forerunner of the Romantic movement. In his tranquil soul, he

hoped for the pacific triumph of liberty and equality, and his

delicate spirit abhorred the excesses of the party with whose

principles he sympathized. He was taken into custody at Passy, early

in 1794, while visiting a lady, against whose arrest he had struggled,

locked up in Saint-Lazare for months, convicted, and sent to the

Conciergerie. He was guillotined in Place de la Nation on July 26,

1794, only the day before Robespierre's fall, and was one of the last

and noblest sacrifices to the Terror. We shall look on his

burial-place in our later rambles. Müller has made André de Chénier

the central figure of his "Roll-Call," now in the Louvre. He sits

looking toward us with eyes that see visions, and his expression seems

full of the thought to which he gave utterance when led out to

execution: "I have done nothing for posterity, and yet," tapping his

forehead, "I had something here!"

In 1795 this little house was surrounded by a great crowd of citizens

come to bury Louis de Chénier, the father. The Section of Brutus

guarded the bier, draped with blue set with silver stars, to suggest

the immortality of the soul! And they gave every honor they could

invent to the "_Pompe funèbre d'un Citoyen Vertueux_," whose worthy

son they had beheaded.

Joseph-Marie de Chénier lived for many years under suspicion of having

given his assent if not his aid to his brother's death, albeit the

mother always asserted that he had tried to save André. Joseph was a

fiery patriot, and a man of genius withal. He wrote the words of the

"Chant du Départ" which, set to music by Méhul, proved almost as

stirring as the "Marseillaise" to the pulses of the Patriots. Music

was one of the potent intoxicants of the time, and the Revolution was

played and sung along to the strains of these two airs, and of "Ça

ira" and the "Carmagnole." The classic style, which had hitherto

prevailed, gave way before the paltry sentimentality and the tinkling

bombast of the music adored by the mob. David planned processions

marching to patriotic airs, and shallow operas were performed in the

streets. Yet Rouget-de-l'Isle, the captain of engineers who had given

them the "Marseillaise," was cashiered and put into a cell; being

freed, he was left to starve, and no aid came to him from the Empire

or the Bourbons, naturally enough. Louis-Philippe's government found

him in sad straits, in that poor house No. 21 of the poor Passage

Saulnier, and ordered a small pension to be paid to him during his

life. His death came in 1836.

Joseph-Marie de Chénier was a playwright, also, and in 1798 he had

created a sensation by his "Charles IX.," produced at the Comédie

Française, now the Odéon. In the part of the King, wonderfully made up

and costumed, Talma won his first notable triumph. "This play," cried

Danton from the pit, "will kill royalty as 'Figaro' killed the

nobility." Joseph-Marie lived, not too reputably, but very busily,

until January 10, 1811; a fussy politician, a member of the

Convention, of the Council of Five Hundred, and of the Institute,

Section of the French Tongue and Literature, always detested by his

associates, by the Emperor, and by the common people.

When the Place Dauphine of Henri IV. was finished, the new industry of

the spectacle-makers established itself in the same buildings we see

to-day, and gave to the place the name of Quai des Lunettes. Later

came the engravers, who found all the light they needed in these

rooms, open on three sides. Among them was a master-engraver, one

Phlipon, bringing his daughter, Marie-Jeanne--her pet name being

Manon--from the house of her birth, in 1754, in Rue de la Lanterne,

now widened into Rue de la Cité. It is not known whether the site of

that house is under the Hôtel-Dieu or the Marché-aux-Fleurs. Their new

home stood, and still stands, on the corner of the northern quay, and

is now numbered 28 Place Dauphine and 41 Quai de l'Horloge. The small

window of the second floor lights the child's alcove bedroom, where

this "daughter of the Seine"--so Madame Roland dubs herself in her

"Memoirs"--looked out on the river, and up at the sky, from over Pont

au Change to beyond the heights of Chaillot, when she could lift her

eyes from her Plutarch, and her thoughts from the altar she was

planning to raise to Rousseau. It must be owned that this all

too-serious girl was a prig; a creature over-fed for its size, the

word has been happily defined. At the age of eleven, she was sent to

the school of the "_Dames de la Congrégation_," in the Augustinian

convent in Rue Neuve-Saint-Etienne. It has been told how that ancient

street was cut in half by Rue Monge. In its eastern section, now named

Rue de Navarre, was Manon's school, directly above the Roman

amphitheatre, discovered only of late years in the course of

excavations in this quarter. The portion that is left of this

impressive relic is in good preservation and in good keeping. Her

school-days done, the girl spent several years in this house before

us, until her mother's death, and her father's tipsiness, sent her

back to her convent for a few months. Then, having refused the many

suitors who had thronged about her in her own home, she found the

philosopher she wanted for a husband in Jean-Marie Roland de la

Platrière, a man much older than she; lank, angular, yellow, bald,

"rather respectable than seductive," in the words of the girl-friend

who had introduced him. But Manon Phlipon doubtless idealized this

wooden formalist who adored her, as she idealized herself and all her

surroundings, including The People, who turned and rent her at the

last. She gave to her husband duty and loyalty, and it was not until

she counted herself dead to earth and its temptations, in her cell at

Sainte-Pélagie, that she addressed her last farewell to him, whom "I

dare not name, one whom the most terrible of passions has not kept

from respecting the barriers of virtue." This farewell was meant for

François-Léonard-Nicolas Buzot, Girondist member of the Assembly

and later of the Convention. He remained unnamed and unknown, until

his name and their secret were told by a bundle of old letters, found

on a book-stall on Quai Voltaire in 1864. She had met him first when

her husband came from Lyons, with petitions to the Assembly, in

February, 1791, and took rooms at the Hôtel Britannique, in Rue

Guénégaud. Her _salon_ soon became the gathering-place of the

Girondists, where those austere men, who considered themselves the

sole salvation of France, were austerely regaled with a bowl of sugar

and a _carafe_ of water. Their hostess could not bother with

frivolities, she, who in her deadly earnestness, renounced the theatre

and pictures, and all the foolish graces of life! The Hôtel

Britannique was the house now numbered 12 Rue Guénégaud, a

wide-fronted, many-windowed mansion of the eighteenth century. Its

stone steps within are well worn, its iron rail is good, its second

floor--the Roland apartment--still shows traces of the ancient

decorations.

[Illustration: The Girlhood Home of Madame Roland.]

Buzot lived at No. 3 Quai Malaquais, an ancient mansion now replaced

by the modern structure between the seventeenth-century houses

numbered 1 and 5. For when the Convention outlawed the Girondists, and

Buzot fled, it was decreed that his dwelling should be levelled to the

ground, and on its site should be placed a notice: "_Là fut la maison

du roi Buzot._" So that it would seem that his colleagues of the

Convention had found him an insufferably Superior Person.

Leaving this apartment on his appointment to office in 1792, Roland

took his wife to the gorgeous _salons_ of the Ministry of the

Interior, in the _hôtel_ built by Leveau for the Comte de Lionne, and

beautified later by Calonne. It occupied the site of the present annex

of the Bank of France just off Rue des Petits-Champs, between Rues

Marsollier and Dalayrac. Here, during his two terms of office in 1792

and 1793, Roland had the aid of his wife's pen, as well as the

allurements of her personal influence, in the cause to which she had

devoted herself. The masculine strength of her pen was weakened, it is

true, by too sharp a feminine point, and she embittered the Court, the

Cordeliers, the Jacobins, all equally against her and her party. For

"this woman who was a great man," in Louis Blanc's true words, was as

essentially womanly as was Marie Antoinette; and these two most

gracious and pathetic figures of their time were yet unconscious

workers for evil to France. The Queen made impassable the breach

between the throne and the people; Madame Roland hastened on the

Terror. And each of them was doing exactly what she thought it right

to do!

On January 23, 1793, two days after the King's death, Roland left

office forever and removed to a house in Rue de la Harpe, opposite the

Church of Saint-Cosme. That church stood on the triangle made by the

meeting of Rues de l'École-de-Médecine and Racine with Boulevard

Saint-Germain. On the eastern side of that boulevard, once the eastern

side of Rue de la Harpe, where it meets modern Rue des Écoles, stood

the Roland house. The students and studentesses, who sip their coffee

and beer on the pavement of Vachette's, are on the scene of Madame

Roland's arrest, on the night between May 31st and June 1st. On the

former day, seeing the end so near, Roland had fled. His wife was

taken to the prison of the Abbaye, and given the cell which was to be

tenanted, six weeks later, by Charlotte Corday. Released on June 22d

and returned to her home in Rue de la Harpe, she was re-arrested on

the 24th and locked up in Sainte-Pélagie. It was an old prison, long

kept for the detention of "_femmes et filles, dont la conduite est

onéreuse_," and its character had not been bettered by the character

of the female prisoners sent there by the Terror. This high-minded

woman, subjected to infamous sights and sounds, preserved her serenity

and fortitude in a way to extort the "stupefied admiration" of her

fellow-prisoners, as one of these has testified. It was only in her

cell that the great heart gave way. There she found solace, during her

four months' confinement, with Thomson's "Seasons," "done into choice

French," with Shaftesbury and an English dictionary, with Tacitus, and

her girlhood companion, Plutarch. And here she busied herself with her

"Memoirs," "writing under the axe," in her own phrase. In the solitude

of her cell, indeed, she was sometimes disturbed by the unseemly

laughter of the ladies of the Comédie Française, at supper with the

prison-governor in an adjacent cell. We shall see, later, how these

ladies came to be here. More acceptable sounds might have come almost

to her ears; that of the hymn-singing or of the maiden laughter of

the girls in her old convent, only a few steps away. The

prison-register contains her description, probably as accurate as

matter-of-fact: "Height, five feet; hair and eyebrows, dark chestnut;

brown eyes; medium nose; ordinary mouth; oval face, round chin, high

forehead." From Sainte-Pélagie she went to the Conciergerie on

November 1st, the day after the guillotining of the Girondists, and

thence in eight days to her own death. It has been told, by every

writer, that she could look over at her girlhood home, as her tumbril

crossed Pont au Change. It has not been told, so plainly as it

deserves, that her famous utterance on the platform was made fine for

historic purposes, as was done with Cambronne's magnificent

monosyllable at Waterloo. She really said: "_O Liberté, comme on t'a

jouée!_" With these words, natural and spontaneous and without pose,

she is, indeed, "beautiful, amazonian, graceful to the eye, more so to

the mind."

Within a few days of her death died her husband and her lover. Roland,

on hearing of her execution, in his hiding-place near Rouen, thrust

his cane-sword into his breast; Buzot, wandering and starving in the

fields, was found half-eaten by wolves. She had confided her daughter

Eudora and her "Memoirs" to the loyal friend Bosc, who hid the

manuscript in the forest of Montmorenci, and in 1795 published it for

the daughter's benefit. The original is said to be in existence, on

coarse gray paper, stained with her tears. Sainte-Beuve speaks of them

as "delicious and indispensable memories," deserving a place "beside

the most sublime and eloquent effusions of a brave yet tender

philosophy." When he praises that style, clearer and more concise than

that of Madame de Staël, "that other daughter of Rousseau," he does

not say all; he might have added that, like Rousseau, she occasionally

speaks of matters not quite convenient to hear.

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