brief in this abstract of my Log, and must compress into a few pages the
events of many Months), and all November were cruising about Cape St.
Lucas in quest of Prizes. Christmas we spent in a very dismal manner;
for a Complaint, something akin to Mumps with Scurvy in the gums, and a
touch of Lockjaw to boot, broke out among us, and eight men died. Then
we engaged or took a very big Spaniard out of Manilla, 250 tons, and a
very rich Cargo, mostly in Gold-dust and embroidered Stuffs. January
10th, 1748-9, at anchor at Port Segura; and here, to our dismal dismay,
we heard that Peace had been proclaimed between Spain and England, and
that all our Privateering for the present was at an end. Then to
Acapulco in Mexico, seeing if we could do some honest trading; but at
all the Towns along the Coast they looked upon us as little better than
Pirates. But we felt a little comforted at the thought that we had
already taken some very rich Prizes, and my own part of the Plunder was
now over 1500_l._ January 11th, we weighed from Port Segura, and ran
towards the Island of Guam. Our Steward missing some pieces of Pork, we
immediately searched and found the Thieves. One of them had been guilty
before, and Forgiven on promise of Amendment; but was punished now, lest
Forbearance should encourage the rest to follow his bad practice.
Provisions being so short, and our run now so long, might, without great
caution, have brought evil consequences upon us. They (the Thieves) were
ordered to the Main-gear, and every man of the watch to give 'em a blow
with the Cat-o'-nine-tails. On the 14th of February, in commemoration of
the ancient English custom of choosing Valentines, a list was drawn up
of all the Fair Ladies in Bristol in any way related or concerned in our
Ships; and all the officers were sent for to the Cabin, where every one
drew, and drank his Valentine's health in a cup of Punch, and to a happy
sight of 'em all. This was done to put 'em in mind of Home.
From Guam, a very poor place, and the Natives uncommonly nasty, we
shaped our course to Ternate; and about the 2d of May saw land, which we
took for some of the Islands lying about the N.E. part of Celebes, but
were satisfied soon after that we were in the Straits of Guiana. 18th
May passed several Islands, and the South point of Gillolo. This was the
time of the S.E. Monsoon, which made Weather and Wind very uncertain.
May 25th we fell in with a parcel of Islands to the Eastward of Bouton,
an island where there is a kind of Indian King, very Savage and Warlike,
and with a considerable flotilla of Galleys. We traded with him, and
made good profit in the way of Barter; for these Savages will give gold
and Goods for the veriest trumpery that was ever picked up at a Groat
the handful at the hucksters' stalls in Barbican. From Bouton on the
11th June, having well watered and provisioned, and taken a Native
pilot on board, we sailed for Batavia, and on the 30th cast anchor in
the Road there. We waited on his Excellency the Governor-General (for
the States of Holland), and begged permission to refit our Ships, which
was granted. Many strange Humours now to be seen aboard. Some of the
crew hugging each other; others blessing themselves that they were come
to such a glorious place for Punch, where they could have Arrack for
Eightpence a Gallon; for now the Labour was worth more than the Liquor,
whereas, a few weeks since, a Bowl of Punch was worth more to them than
half the Voyage. Now we began to Careen, going over to Horn Island, and
a Sampan ready to heave down by, and take in our Guns, Carriages, &c.
Several of our men fell ill of Fevers, as they said, from drinking the
Water of the Island; but as Captain Blokes opined, more from the effects
of Arrack Punch at Eightpence a Gallon. All English ships are allowed by
the Government here half a leaguer of Arrack a day for ship's use per
man; but boats are not suffered to bring the least thing off shore
without being first severely searched. As to the town of Batavia, it
lies in a bay full of islands, which so break off the Sea, that though
the Road is very large, yet it is safe. The Banks of the Canals through
the City are paved with stones as far as the Boom, which is shut up
every night at nine o'clock, and guarded by Soldiers. All the Streets
are very well built and inhabited; fifteen of 'em have Canals just as in
Amsterdam and Rotterdam, and from end to end they reckon fifty-six
bridges. The vast number of Cocoa-nut trees in and about the City
everywhere afford delightful and profitable Groves. There are Hospitals,
Spin-houses, and so forth, as in Holland, where the idle and vicious are
set to work, and, when need arises, receive smart Discipline. The
Chinese have also a large Sick House, and manage their charity so well
that you never see a Chinaman looking despicable in the street. The
Dutch Women have greater privileges in India than in Holland, or,
indeed, anywhere else; for on slight occasions they are often divorced
from their Husbands, and share the Estate betwixt 'em. A Lawyer told me
at Batavia he had known, out of fifty-eight causes, all depending in the
Council Chamber, fifty-two of them were Divorces. The Governor's Palace
of Brick, very stately and well laid. He lives in as great splendour as
a king; he has a Train and Guards--viz. a Troop of Horse and a Company
of Foot with Halberds, in liveries of yellow satin adorned with silver
laces and fringe--to attend his Coach when he goes abroad. His Lady has
also her Guards and Train. The Javanese, or Ancient Natives, are
numerous, and said to be barbarous and proud, of a dark colour, with
flat faces, thin short Black hair, large eyebrows and cheeks. The Men
are strong-limbed, but the Women small. The Men have many Wives, and are
much given to lying and stealing. They are all Pagans, and worship
Devils. The Women tawny, sprightly, and Amorous, and very apt to give
poison to their Husbands when they can do it cunningly. There are at
least 10,000 Chinese who pay the Dutch a dollar a month for liberty to
wear their Hair, which they are not allowed to do at home since the
Tartars conquered 'em. There comes hither from China fourteen or sixteen
Junks a year, being flat-bottomed vessels. The Merchants come with their
goods, and marvellous queer folks they are. I don't think the whole City
is as large as Bristol; but 'tis much more populous.
October 12th. We, according to our Owners' orders to keep our Ships
full-manned, whether the War continued or not--and, oh, how we cursed
this plaguey Peace!--shipped here seventeen men that were Dutch. Though
we looked upon our hardships as being now pretty well over, several Ran
from us here that had come out of England with us, being straggling,
lazy, good-for-nothings, that can't leave their old Trade of deserting,
though now they had a good sum due to each of 'em for Wages. Their
shares for Plunder of course were forfeited, and equitably divided among
those that stuck by us. From this to the 23d we continued taking in
wood and water for our Passage to the Cape of Good Hope; and just before
we sailed held a Council on board the _Marquis_, by which 'twas agreed,
that if any of our Consorts should happen to part company, the one that
arrived first was to stay at the Cape twenty days; and, then, if they
didn't find the other Ships, to make their utmost despatch to the Island
of Helena; and if not there, to proceed, according to Owners' orders, to
Great Britain.
Nothing particular happened till the 27th December, when the _Marquis_
proved very Leaky, and rare work we had at the Pumps, they being most of
them choked up from long disuse. December 28th we came in sight of the
Lion's Head and Rump, being two Hills over the Cape Town. Saluted the
Dutch fortress with Nine Guns, and got but Three for thanks; it being
surprising what airs these Pipe-smoking, Herring-curing, Cheese-making,
Twenty-breeches Gentry give themselves. 29th, we moored Ship, and sent
our Sick ashore. We stayed here until the end of February, when we went
into Sardinia Bay to Careen; for a Survey of Carpenters had reported
very badly concerning the Leak. 27th Feb. we had a good rummage for Bale
Goods to dispose of ashore, having leave of the Governor, and provided a
Store-house, where I and the Supercargo of the _Delight_ took it by
turns weekly during the sale of 'em. 28th March came in a Portugee
frigate, with news that Five stout French Ships had attempted Rio
Janeiro, but were repulsed, and had a great number of men killed, with
over 400 taken prisoners by the Portuguese.
April 5th we hoisted a Blue Ensign, loosened our Fore Topsail, and fired
a Gun as a Signal for our Consorts to unmoor, and so fell down to Robin
and Penguin Islands.
_Memorandum._--We buried four while at the Cape; eight ran away to be
eaten up, as we heartily hoped, by the Hottentots, who have a great
gusto for White Man's Flesh; but reject Negroes as too strong and
Aromatic; to say little of the major number of our Ship's Companies
getting Married to Black Wenches. But there's no Doctors' Commons at
Cape Town; and the best Way of Divorce is by shoving off a boat from
Shore, and leaving your Wife behind you. _Item._--The Dutch generally
send a Ship every year to Madagascar for Slaves to supply their
Plantations; for the said beastly Hottentots have their Liberty and Ease
so much, that they cannot be brought to work, even though they should
Starve (which they do pretty well all the year round) for the lack of
it. Here, too, we spoke with an Englishman and an Irishman, that had
been several years with the famous Madagascar Pirates, but were now
pardoned, and allowed to settle here. They told us that these Miserable
Wretches, who once made such a Noise in the World, dwindled away one by
one, most of them very poor and despicable, even to the Natives, among
whom they had Married. They added, that they had no Embarkations, only
mere Canoes and Rowboats in Madagascar; so that these Pirates (so long a
terrible Bugbear to peaceable Merchantmen) are now become so
inconsiderable as to be scarcely worth mentioning; yet I do think that
if care be not always taken after a Peace to clear all out-of-the-way
Islands of these piratical Vermin, and hinder others from joining them,
it may prove a Temptation for loose scampish Fellows to resort thither,
and make every Creek in the Southern Seas a troublesome nest of
Freebooters.
The Cape having been so frequently described, I shall only add that the
Character of the Hottentots, at which I have hinted, has been found to
be too True, that they scarce deserve to be reckoned of the Human Kind:
they are such a nasty, ill-looking, and worse-smelling people. Their
Apparel is the Skins of Beasts; their chief Ornament is to be very
Greasy and Black; so that they besmear themselves with an abominable
Oil, mixed with Tallow and Soot; and the Women twist the Entrails of
Beasts or Thongs of Hides round their legs, which resemble Rolls of
Tobacco. Here's plenty, however, of all kinds of Flesh and Fowl;
there's nothing wanting at the Cape of Good Hope for a good subsistence;
nor is there any place more Commodious for a Retirement to such as would
be out of the Noise of the World, than the adjacent country in the
possession of the Dutch.
Nothing of note happened till May 1st, only that sometimes we had
Thunder, Lightning, Rain, and Squalls of Wind. On the 7th we made the
Island of Ascension, S. Lat. 8.2. On the 14th at noon we found we had
just crossed the Equator, being the eighth time we had done so in our
course round the World. We had a Dutch Squadron with us, who expected
Convoy Rates, and all manner of Civilities from us, though there was now
Peace, and we wanted nothing from 'em; but 'tis always the way with this
Grasping and Avaricious People. Soon too we observed that the Dutch
ships began to scrape and clean their sides, painting and polishing and
beeswaxing 'em inside and out, bending new sails, and the very Mariners
putting on half a dozen pair of new breeches apiece. This it is their
custom to do as they draw near home; so that they look as if newly come
out of Holland.
On the morning of the 15th July we made Fair Island and Foul Island,
lying off Shetland; and sighted two or three Fishing Doggers cruising
off the Islands. Having little wind, we lay by, and the Inhabitants came
off with what Provisions they had; but they are very poor people, wild
and savage, subsisting chiefly on Fish. When that provision fails, I
have heard they live on Seaweed.
We being, so to speak, in charge, although unwillingly, of the Dutch
Squadron, which had been willy-nilly our Convoy, were compelled to put
into a port of Holland instead of into a British one, as we had fondly
hoped. On the 23rd July the Dutch Commodore made a signal for seeing
Land, and the whole fleet answered him with all their colours. The
Pilot-boat coming off, we took two aboard, and about noon parted with
some of our Dutch Consorts that were Rotterdam and Middleburg ships. We
gave 'em a Huzza and a half in derision, and our Trumpet and Hautboy
were for striking up the Rogue's March; but this was forbidden by the
Sagacious Captain Blokes. Some English ships now hove in sight, and
saluted the Dutch Commodore; and afterwards we, though with an ill
grace, saluted his Worship to welcome in sight of the land, which by
right belongs to the Rats (though I have little doubt that for all the
Vandykes and Vandams the long-whiskered Gentry will come to their own
again some of these fine days). As soon as they got over the Bar the
Dutchmen fired all their guns for joy at their safe arrival in their own
country, which they very affectionately call Fatherland; and, indeed, it
was not easy under these circumstances to be angry with the Poor Souls
that had been so long at Sea, and wandering about Strange Lands. At 8 at
night we came to an anchor in 6-fathom water, about 2 miles off shore.
On the 24th, in the morning, the Dutch Flag-ship weighed, in order to go
up to the unlivering place. In the afternoon Captain Blokes sent me
ashore, and up to Amsterdam, with a letter for our Owners' Agents, to
ask how we were to act and proceed from hence. Coming back with
instructions from the Agent (one Mr. Vandepeereboom, who made me
half-fuddled with Schiedam drinking to our prosperous return; but he was
a very Civil Gentleman, speaking English to admiration, and had a
monstrous pretty Housekeeper, with eyes as bright as her own Pots and
Pans), by Consent of our Council we discharged such men as we had
shipped at Batavia and the Cape, and sold the half-dozen Negroes we had
from time to time picked up for about a Hundred Dollars apiece. But this
last had to be managed by private Contract, and somewhat under the Rose;
for their High Mightinesses, the States-General, allow no Slaves to be
sold openly in Amsterdam.
On the 10th we went up to the Vlieder, which is a better Road than the
Texel, and then to Amsterdam again, where Captain Blokes and his chief
officers had to make Affidavits before a Notary Public to the truth of
an Abstract of our Voyage, the which I had drawn up from the Log of the
_Marquis_, to justify our proceedings to our own Government in answer to
what the East India Company had to allege against us; they being, as we
were informed, resolved to trouble us on pretence that we had Encroached
upon their Charter. On the 31st August comes Mr. Vandepeereboom on board
to take Account of what Plate, Gold, and Pearl was in the Ship; and on
the 5th September he took his leave of us.
But not of me; for as I had been much with him ever since we had lain at
Amsterdam, we had become great Chums, and he had persuaded me not to
return just yet to England, but to remain with him in Holland, and
become his partner in Mercantile Adventure, that should not necessitate
my going to Sea again. And by this time, to tell truth, I was heartily
sick of being Tossed and Tumbled about by the Waves. No man could say
that I had not done my Duty during my momentous Voyage round the World.
I had worked as hard as any Moose on board the _Marquis_, doing
hand-work and head-work as well. I had been Wounded, had had two Fevers
and one bout of Scurvy; but was seldom in such evil case as to shirk
either my Duty or my Grog. I prudently redoubted the Chances of
returning in haste to my native Country, for, although being alone in
the world, and the marriage with Madam Taffetas not provable in Law,
with no other Domestic Troubles to grieve me, I knew from long
experience what Ducks and Drakes Seafaring men do make of their money
coming home from a long voyage with their heads empty and their pockets
full, and was determined that what I had painfully gathered from the
uttermost Ends of the Earth should not be riotously and unprofitably
squandered in the Taverns of Wapping and Rotherhithe. Mr. Vandepeereboom
entering with me into the State of his Affairs, proved, as far as Ledger
and Cash-book could prove any thing, that he was in a most prosperous
way of business, in the Dutch East India trade, of which by this time I
knew something; so that, although Captain Blokes was loth to part with
his old Shipmate and Secretary, he was yet glad to see me better myself.
And in truth Mr. Vandepeereboom's Housekeeper was marvellous pretty. I
drew my Pay and Allowances, which amounted to but a small matter; but to
my great Joy and Gladness I found that my share of the Plunder from our
Prizes and the Ransom of Guayaquil came to Twenty Hundred Pounds. The
order for this sum was duly transferred to me, and lodged to my Account
in the Bank of Amsterdam, then the most famous Corporation of Cofferers
(since that of Venice began to decline) in Europe. I bade farewell to
Captain Blokes and all my Messmates; left Twenty Pounds to be divided
among the Ship's Company (for which they manned Shrouds and gave me
three Huzzas as the Shoreboat put off); and after a last roaring Carouse
on board the _Marquis_, gave up for Ever my berth in the gallant Craft
in which I had sailed round the World.
FOOTNOTE:
[A] There is a River in Macedon and a River in Monmouth, and more
Malagas than one.
CHAPTER THE FOURTH.
OF THE SINGULAR MISFORTUNES WHICH BEFELL ME IN HOLLAND.
'TWAS no such very bad Title for a Mercantile Firm, "Vandepeereboom and
Dangerous." Aha, Rogues! will you call me Pauper, Card-sharper,
Led-Captain, Half-penny-Jack, now? Who but I was Mynheer Jan van
Dangerous? (I took my Gentility out of my Trunk, as the Spanish Don did
his Sword when the Sun shone and there were Pistoles galore, and added
the Van as a prefix to which I was entitled by Lineage.) Who but I was a
wealthy and prosperous Merchant of Amsterdam, the richest city in
Holland? Soon was I well known and Capped to, as one that could order
wine, and pay for it, at the sign of the Amsterdam Wappen, the great
Inn here.
Although 'tis now nigh thirty years since, I do preserve the pleasantest
remembrance of my life in the Low Countries; for, albeit hating the
Dutch when I was Poor, I grew to like 'em as a reputable Merchant
Adventurer. 'Twas but a small matter prevented me from setting up my
Coach, and was only hindered by the fact that the Police Laws of
Amsterdam are very strict against Wheeled carriages, allowing only a
certain and very small number, lest the rumbling of the Wheels should
disturb the good thrifty Burghers at their Accompts. For most vehicles
they have what they call a Sley, which is the body of a Coach fastened
on to a Sledge with ropes, and drawn by one Horse. A Fellow walks by the
side on't, and holds on with one hand to prevent its falling over, while
with the other he manages the Reins. A most melancholy Machine this,
moving at the rate of about Three miles an hour, and makes you think
that you are in a Hospital Conveyance, or else going on a Hurdle to be
Hanged, Drawn, and Quartered.
This Amsterdam is the famous town built upon Wooden Piles, as is also
Petersburg, and in some order Venice; and from its Timber supports, gave
rise to the sportive saying of Erasmus when he first came hither, that
he had reached a City where the Citizens lived, like Crows, upon the
tops of Trees. And again he waggishly compared Amsterdam to a maimed
Soldier, as having Wooden Legs. This Erasmus was, I conjecture, a kind
of Schoolmaster, and very learned; but conceited, as are most Bookish
Persons.
A Dutchman will save any thing; and this rich place has all come out of
saving the Mud, and starving the Fishes. Here Traffic is wooed as though
she were a Woman, and Gold is put to bed with Time, and there is much
joy over their Bantling, which is christened Interest. A strange,
cleanly, money-grubbing Country of Botanic Gardens and Spitting-pans,
universal Industry and Tobacco-pipes, Gingerbread and Sawing-mills,
Tulip-roots and the Strong Waters of Schiedam, Cheese, Red Herrings, and
the Protestant Religion. Peculiar to these People is the functionary
called the Aansprecker, a kind of human Bird of Evil Omen, who goes
about in a long Black Gown and a monstrous Cocked Hat with a Crape
depending from it, to inform the Friends and Acquaintances of Genteel
Persons of any one being Dead. This Aansprecker pays very handsome
Compliments to the Departed, at so many Stuyvers the Ounce of Butter;
and this saves the Dutch (who are very frugal towards their Dead) from
telling lies upon their Tombstones. When a Man quits, they wind up his
Accounts, strike a Balance, and go on to a fresh Folio in the Ledger
without carrying any thing forward. At Marriage-time, also, is it the
custom among Persons of Figure for the Bride and Bridegroom to send
round Bottles of Wine, generally fine Hock, well spiced and sugared, and
adorned with all sorts of Ribbons. They have also a singular mode of
airing their Linen and Beds, by means of what they call a Trokenkorb,
or Fire-basket, which is of the size and shape of a Magpie's Cage, and
within it is a pan filled with burning Turf, and the Linen is spread
over the Wicker-frame; or, to air the Bed, the whole Machine is placed
between the Sheets. Nay, there are sundry Dowager Fraws who do warm
their Legs with this same Trokenkorb, using it as though it were a
footstool; and considering the quantity of Linsey Woolsey they wear, I
wonder there are not more Fires. To guard against this last, there are
Persons appointed whose office it is to remain all day and all night in
the Steeples of the highest Churches; and as soon as they spy a Flame,
they hang out a Flag if it's Day, or a Lantern if at Night, towards the
quarter where the Fire is, blowing a Trumpet lustily meanwhile.
Eating and Drinking here very good, save the Water, which is so Brackish
that it is not drunk even by the Common People. There are
Water-Merchants constantly occupied in supplying the City with
drinkable Water, which they bring in Boats from Utrecht and Germany in
large stone Bottles, that cost you about Eightpence a-piece English. The
Poor, who cannot afford it, drink Rain-water, which gives rise to the
merry saying, that a Dutchman's Mouth is for ever open, either to
swallow down Smoke or to drink up Rain. And indeed they are a
wide-gaping Generation.
Being as yet a Bachelor, I agreed for my Lodging and Victuals with Mr.
Vandepeereboom, who had a fair House, very stately, on one of the Canals
behind the Heeren Gragt, or Lord's Street. 'Twould have had quite a
princely appearance, but for a row of Elms in front, which, with their
fan, almost concealed the Mansion. The noble look of the House, too, was
somewhat spoilt by its being next door to a shop where they sold Drugs;
which like all others of this trade in Holland, had for a sign a huge
Carved Head, with the mouth wide open, in front of the window: sometimes
it rudely resembles a Mercury's Head, and at other times has a Fool's
Cap upon it. This clumsy sign is called _de Gaaper_,--the Gaper,--and I
know not the origin of it. Some of the Shop-boards they call _Uithang
Borden_, and have ridiculous Verses written upon them; and 'tis singular
to mark how much of the Jackpudding these Dutchmen, who are keener than
Jews in their Cash-matters, have in them.