PLAIN NEEDLEWORK.
INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PREPARATION OF BODY LINEN.
In order to secure economy of time, labor, and expense, and also to do
everything neatly and in order, the lady who is intending to engage in
the domestic employment of preparing linen necessary for personal and
family use, should be careful to have all her materials ready, and
disposed in the most systematic manner possible, before commencing work.
The materials employed in the construction of articles, which come under
the denomination of plain needlework, are so various, that a mere list
of them would occupy more than half our space; and they are so well
known, that no necessity exists for naming them in detail. We shall
therefore proceed, at once, to give plain directions, by which any lady
may soon become expert in this necessary department of household uses,
merely observing, that a neat work-box, well supplied with all the
implements required--including knife, scissors (of at least three
sizes,) needles and pins in sufficient variety, bodkins, thimbles,
thread and cotton, bobbins, marking silks, black lead pencils, india
rubber, &c., should be provided, and be furnished with a lock and key,
to prevent the contents being thrown into confusion by children,
servants, or unauthorized intruders.
The lady being thus provided, and having her materials, implements,
&c., placed in order upon her work-table, (to the edge of which it is an
advantage to have a pincushion affixed, by means of a screw,) may
commence her work, and proceed with pleasure to herself, and without
annoyance to any visitor, who may favor her with a call. We would
recommend, wherever practicable, that the work-table should be made of
cedar, and that the windows of the working parlor should open into a
garden, well supplied with odoriferous flowers and plants, the perfume
of which will materially cheer the spirits of those especially whose
circumstances compel them to devote the greatest portion of their time
to sedentary occupations. If these advantages cannot be obtained, at
least the room should be well ventilated, and furnished with a few
cheerful plants, and a well filled scent-jar. The beneficent Creator
intended all His children, in whatever station of life they might be
placed, to share in the common bounties of His providence; and when she,
who not for pleasure, but to obtain the means of subsistence, is
compelled to seclude herself, for days or weeks together, from the
cheering influence of exercise in the open air, it becomes both her
duty, and that of those for whom she labors, to secure as much of these
advantages, or of the best substitutes for them, as the circumstances of
the case will admit.
We now proceed to lay down what we hope will be found clear though
concise rules, for the preparation of various articles of dress and
attire.
APRONS.--These are made of a variety of materials, and are applied to
various uses. The aprons used for common purposes, are made of white,
blue, brown, checked, and sometimes of black linen; nankeen, stuff, and
print, are also employed. The width is generally one breadth of the
material, and the length is regulated by the height of the wearer. Dress
aprons are, of course, made of finer materials--cambric, muslin, silk,
satin, lace, clear and other kinds of muslin, &c., and are generally two
breadths in width, one of which is cut in two, so as to throw a seam on
each side, and leave an entire breadth for the middle. Aprons of all
kinds are straight, and either plaited or gathered on to the band or
stock at the top. Those with only one breadth, are hemmed at the bottom
with a broad hem; those with two breadths, must be hemmed at the sides
likewise. The band should be from half a nail to a nail broad; its
length is to be determined by the waist of the wearer. It should be
fastened at the back, with hooks and eyelet holes. To some aprons,
pockets are attached, which are either sewed on in front, or at the
back, and a slit made in the apron to correspond with them. The slit, or
opening of the pocket is to be hemmed neatly, or braided, as may be most
desirable. In some kinds of aprons, bibs are introduced, which are
useful to cover the upper part of the dress. Their size must be
determined by the taste of the person who is to wear them.
DRESS APRONS.--Take two breadths of any material you choose, dividing
one of them in the middle. Hem all round, with a broad hem,
three-fourths of a nail deep. The band is to be one and a-half nails
deep in the middle, into which a piece of whalebone is to be inserted,
on each side of which work a row or two in chain stitch. The band is
scolloped out from the centre on its lower side, five and a-half nails,
leaving the extremities of the band one nail broad. To the scolloped
portion, the apron is to be fulled on, so as to sit as neat as possible;
leaving the space beneath the whalebone plain. Confine the folds, by
working two rows of chain stitch, just below the curved lines of the
band, leaving half an inch between each row. The lower edge of the band
is ornamented with a small piping, but is left plain at the top.
VANDYKE APRON.--This may be made either of silk or muslin. The edge of
the apron is to be turned down, once all round, on the right side, to
the depth of three-quarters of a nail; and the vandykes are formed by
running from the edge of the apron to near the rough edge of the
material, which is afterward to be turned in. When the vandykes are
completed, they are to be turned inside out, and made as smooth as
possible. A braid, or a row of tent stitch, on the right side, over the
stitches, is a pretty finish. In setting on the band, the plaits must be
placed opposite each other, so as to meet in the middle. You may line
the band with buckram, or stiff muslin, and ornament it with piping if
you please.
APRON FOR A YOUNG PERSON.--Clear muslin is the best material. Hem round
with a hem, three-fourths of a nail deep; lay all round, within the hem,
a shawl bordering, not quite so broad as the hem. Of course, the latter
must be taken off before washing.
A MORNING APRON.--This may be made like the last, but instead of the
shawl bordering, surround the outer edge of the hem by a deep crimped
frill, a nail in breadth. The material most in use, is jacconet or
cambric muslin: the frill, of lawn or cambric, which you please.
GIRL'S APRON.--Use any material that is deemed advisable. The bib is to
be made to fit the wearer, in front, between the shoulders, and sloping
to the waist. The apron is to be gathered, or plaited to the band; and
the shoulder straps may be of the same material, or of ribbon. The bib,
either plain or ornamented, with tucks or folds, as may be deemed most
suitable.
BATHING GOWN.--The materials employed are various, flannels, stuff, or
calamanca, are the most preferable, giving free ingress to the water.
The length must be determined by the height of the wearer, and the
width at the bottom should be about fifteen nails. It should be folded
as you would a pinafore, and to be sloped three and three-quarters nails
for the shoulder. The slits for the arm-holes must be three nails and
three-quarters long, and the sleeves are to be set in plain: the length
of the latter is not material. It is useful to have a slit of three
inches, in front of each. The gown is to have a broad hem at the bottom,
and to be gathered into a band at the top, which is to be drawn tight
with strings; the sleeves are to be hemmed and sewn round the arm or
wrist, in a similar manner.
BUSTLES.--These are worn, to make the waist of the gown sit neat upon
the person. They are made the width of the material, and eight nails
deep. The piece is to be so doubled as to make two flounces; one four
nails and a half and the other three and a-half deep. A case, to admit
of tapes, is to be made one nail from the top, and the bottom of each
flounce is to have a thick cord hemmed into it. When worn, the article
is turned inside out. The materials are strong jean, or calico.
CAPS.--These are made of a great variety of patterns, and the materials
are as various as the purposes to which the article is applied. Muslins
of various kinds, lawn, net, lace, and calico, are all in request; and
the borders are extremely various. Muslin, net, or lace, being those
most in common use. The shapes are so multifarious, as to preclude us
from giving any specific directions. Every lady must choose her own
pattern, as best suits the purpose she has in view. The patterns should
be cut in paper, and considerable care is requisite, in cutting out, not
to waste the material. A little careful practice will soon make this
department familiar to the expert votaress of the needle.
CHILD'S COLLAR.--This is made of double Irish linen, and is stitched
round and made to fall over the dress. Frills are generally attached to
them, and give them a pretty finish. They are proper for children, of
eight or nine years of age.
CRAVATS.--These are of fine muslin, and are made in the shape of a half
handkerchief. They are hemmed with a narrow hem, and should be cut from
muslin, eighteen nails square.
CLOAKS.--These useful and necessary articles of dress are generally made
up by a dress-maker; it is unnecessary therefore to give particular
directions concerning them. The materials are silks and stuffs, of
almost every variety, including satin, merino cloth, real and imitation
shawling plaids, and Orleans. The latter is now very generally used.
Travelling cloaks are made of a stronger material, and are trimmed in a
much plainer style than those used in walking dresses. Satin cloaks look
well with velvet collars, and are also frequently trimmed with the same
material. Merino, and also silk cloaks, are often trimmed with fur, or
velvet, and lined with the same. Sometimes they are made perfectly
plain. The lining of a silk or satin cloak, should be of the same color,
or else a well-chosen contrast; and care should be taken, that the color
should be one that is not liable to fade, or to receive damage. An
attention to these general remarks, will be found of much advantage to
the lady who, in making her purchase is desirous of combining elegance
of appearance with durability of wear, and economy of price.
FRILLS.--These are used as ornaments, or a finish to various articles of
dress. The materials are cambric muslin, lace, net, &c., and the manner
in which they are made is various. Sometimes they are set on quite
plain, that is, hemmed round and plaited up into neat folds, to the
width required. At other times, frills are fitted to a band, and the
edge that is to be hemmed, is stiffened by rolling it over a bobbin; it
is put on as an ornament to a gown, and is tied with strings at the end.
Crimped frills are worn by young children, and look extremely neat. They
are made of lawn or cambric, and sewed on to a band. The other edge is
hemmed, and the frill is double the size round the neck. The band should
be half a nail in depth, and the frill is to be crimped as evenly as
possible.
GENTLEMEN'S BELTS.--These are worn by persons who have much and violent
exercise, and are extremely useful. They are made of strong jean or
other material, and sometimes of leather, and may either be made
straight, or a little slant, or peaked. Runners of cotton are inserted,
to make them more strong, and they must be furnished with long straps of
webbing at the ends, sewed on with leather over them. The straps are
about three inches in depth.
GENTLEMEN'S COLLARS.--These are very generally worn, and are shaped in a
variety of ways. They are made double, and ornamented with a single or
double row of back stitch. They are made to button round the neck, or
are set on to a band for that purpose. It is best to cut the pattern in
paper, and when a good fit is obtained, cut the cloth by the paper
model.
GENTLEMEN'S FRONTS.--The material is fine lawn or cambric. Sometimes the
sides are composed of the former, and the middle of the latter. A false
hem is made down the middle, furnished with buttons, as if to open; the
neck is hollowed to the depth of a nail, and is plaited or gathered into
a stock or band. In order that it may sit neat upon the bosom, two neck
gussets are introduced.
LADIES' DRAWERS.--Choose any proper material, and form the article by
making two legs, set on to a band to fasten round the waist. Set on a
plain or worked frill at the bottom. When setting the legs on to the
band, place them so as to overlap each other. The band is eleven nails
long, and three deep.
LADIES' FLANNEL WAISTCOAT.--This is, in many cases, an indispensable
article of female attire. For an ordinary size, you must take a piece of
flannel twelve nails wide, and seven deep, folding it exactly in the
middle. At two nails from the front, which is doubled, the arm holes
must be cut, leaving two nails for half of the back. The front is to be
slightly hollowed. At the bottom, cut a slit of three nails, immediately
under the arm holes; insert a gore three nails broad, and the same in
length, and terminating in a point. Bosom-gores are also to be
introduced of a similar shape, and just half the size. They are to be
put in just one nail from the shoulder-strap. In making the waistcoat,
it is to be herring-boned all round, as are also all the gores and
slits. A broad tape, one nail in width, is laid down each side of the
front, in which the button holes are made, and buttons set on; the
shoulder-straps are of tape, and the waistcoat fastens in front.
LADIES' NIGHT JACKETS.--The materials are various, including lawn,
linen, and calico. The jackets are made of two breadths, and as it is
desirable not to have a seam in the shoulder, the two breadths should be
cut in one length, and carefully doubled in the middle. The neck is to
be slit open, leaving three nails on each side for the shoulders; and a
slit is also to be made in front, so as to allow the garment to pass
freely over the head of the wearer; the sides are then to be seamed up,
leaving proper slits for the arm holes; and the neck and bosom are to be
hemmed as neatly as possible. The sleeves are to be made the required
length, and gathered into a band at the wrist, after being felled into
the arm holes mentioned above. A neat frill round the neck, bosom, and
wrists, finishes the whole.
NIGHT GOWNS.--These must be made of a size suitable for the wearer. The
following are directions for three different sizes. The length of the
gown on the skirts is one yard and a half for the first size, one yard
and six nails for the second, and one yard and three nails for the
third; the width of the material is eighteen, sixteen, and fourteen
nails, respectively; and the garment is to have one yard and a half
breadth in width. They are to be crossed so as to be at the bottom
twenty-one, eighteen, and sixteen, nails: and at the top, fifteen,
fourteen, and twelve nails, as the sizes may require. The length of the
sleeves is nine, eight, and seven nails, and the width half a breadth;
they are to be furnished with gussets, three, two, and two nails square,
and with wristbands of the proper width, and of any depth that is deemed
desirable.
A binder of one nail and a half is put down the selvage of each sleeve,
which strengthens it much. The gown is furnished with a collar about
three nails deep, and of the length required by the wearer; and, in
order that it may fit properly, neck gussets of two, one, and one nail
square, are to be introduced. A slit of about six nails is made in
front, which is hemmed round, and the space left for the shoulders is
three, two and a-half and two nails, respectively. The whole is finished
with a neat frill round the collar and wristbands. If economy is an
object, cut three gowns together. This will prevent much waste of
material; an object, by every head of a family, to be constantly kept in
view.
NECK AND POCKET HANDKERCHIEFS.--These are made of a great variety of
materials, as silk, muslin, cambric, lawn, and net. The neck
handkerchiefs are generally a half square, and are hemmed all round. It
is a good plan to turn up the extreme corners, as it makes it more
strong and durable. A tape is set on, which comes 'round the waist, and
ties in front. Sometimes a broad muslin hem is put on the two straight
sides, which looks extremely well. Some ladies work a border to their
neck handkerchief, which gives to those made of net the appearance of
lace. Pocket handkerchiefs are neatly hemmed, and sometimes have a
worked border. Those used by gentlemen are of a larger size than those
of ladies.
PETTICOATS (FLANNEL).--These are not only useful, but indispensable
articles of dress. Fine flannel is the best, as it is most durable, and
keeps its color best in washing. The length of the petticoat is
regulated by the height of the person for whom it is intended; and the
width ranges from three breadths to one and a-half. The bottom is hemmed
with a broad hem; and the top is gathered, and set on to a strong band
of calico, or jean, leaving the front nearly plain. Sometimes a button
hole is made, about two nails from the ends of the band, to which
strings of tape are attached; these are passed through the opposite
holes, and the parts thus brought over each other form a kind of bustle,
which makes the garment sit more neatly to the figure. A slit of about
four nails is left on the back which is hemmed round, or bound with a
strong binding.
PETTICOATS are worn under the dress for the sake of warmth, and also to
make the gown hang more gracefully upon the person. They should have
three or three and a-half breadths of the material in the width, and the
bottom is made with a broad hem three nails deep, or with tucks or
worked muslin. The latter is extremely neat. They are to be set on to a
strong band, or stock, and are to have a slit left at the back about
four nails in length. The skirt may be gathered full all round, or only
at the back and front, leaving the sides plain; sometimes all the
fulness is thrown to the back. Having shoulder-straps to keep up the
petticoat, is a great advantage; but they are unnecessary if a waist,
or body with or without sleeves, be set on the band. In this case the
body should be made to fit as tight to the person as possible. The band
is generally about one nail in breadth. The materials proper for
petticoats are dimity, calico, cambric, jacconet muslin, calamanca,
stuff, &c. What are called middle, or under petticoats, are made in the
same manner. Those ladies who pursue the laudable practice of nursing
their own infants, and who wear petticoats with bodies to them, have
them open in front.
PINAFORE.--This is a useful article of dress, especially in large
families. Holland is the best material. For an open one, one breadth is
sufficient. Double the pinafore into four, and cut the arm holes to the
required depth in the two side folds, so that half will form the front.
The neck is to be hollowed out about a quarter of a nail in the middle,
and the pinafore is to be set on to the neck band, which fastens by a
button behind. Sleeve lappets are attached to the arm holes, being
gathered near the edge, and set on before the arm hole is hemmed, so
that when the edge is turned down no stitches will appear. The lappet is
a second time to be gathered at the edge, and sewed down as fast as
possible. Then hem the other edge, and conceal the stitches with silk
braid that will wash. A small gusset put into the bottom of the slits is
an advantage, as it makes it stronger. They are to be fastened round the
waist with a band, or with a strap and buckle. The latter is most to be
preferred. For a close pinafore, two breadths of Holland, or other
material, will be required. It is seamed up at the sides, leaving slits
for the arm holes, and has a collar and sleeves; as also a band to go
round the middle of the wearer. Neck gussets may be introduced, but the
much neater way is, to double the pinafore into four, and let in a piece
at each shoulder, about a nail wide, and two nails in length, gathering
each quarter from the arm holes, into the pieces so let in, and felling
similar pieces on the inside of the shoulder. The two middle quarters
are to be gathered into half the collar, and the back in the same
manner. The sleeves are made with gussets like a shirt, and are gathered
into the arm holes. A slit is made at the hands, and the bottom is
gathered into a wristband about an inch in breadth.
POCKETS.--These are made of any kind of material you please. You take a
piece of double, and cut it to the shape required. Stitch the two pieces
neatly round, a little distance from the edge. Then turn it, and let the
seam be well flattened, and back stitch with white silk a quarter of an
inch from the edge; cut a slit down about four nails, which is to be
either hemmed, or have a tape laid round it on the inside. Set on the
strings, and the pocket is complete. Some ladies have pockets attached
to the petticoat. In that case, it is only a square of calico, about ten
nails long, and eight broad, set on to the inside of the petticoat, as
plain as possible.
A RIBBON SCARF.--This is made of broad satin ribbon, and must not be
less than two nails and a half wide: its length is two yards and three
quarters. The ribbon is to be doubled on the wrong side, and run in a
slanting direction so as to cause it to fall gracefully on the neck. The
ends are to be embroidered and ornamented with braid, or left plain, as
may suit the fancy. The scarf is to be surrounded by an edging of swan's
down. This is an elegant article of female attire.
PLAIN SCARF.--This is generally made of net, the whole breadth, and two
yards and a half long. It is hemmed all round with a broad hem so as to
admit a ribbon to be run in, which gives it a neat and finished
appearance.
AN INDIAN SCARF.--This is an elegant article of dress and can be easily
made. The material is a rich Cashmere, and three colors are required:
that is, black, scarlet, and a mazarine blue. You must have the scarf
four nails and a half in width, and one yard and six nails in length:
this must be black. Then you must have of the other two colors, pieces
seven nails long, and the same width as the black, and you are, after
finding the exact middle of the black stripe, to slope off one nail and
a half toward each side, and then slope one end of the blue and of the
scarlet piece, so as to make them accord precisely with the ends of the
black previously prepared. You are to cut one nail and a half from the
middle to the ends. You are then to split the blue and the scarlet
stripes down the middle, and join half of the one to the half of the
other, as accurately, as possible. The pieces thus joined together are
to be sewed to the black stripe, and the utmost care must be taken to
make the points unite properly. You are to sew the pieces fast together,
and herring-bone them all round on the right side. You finish by laying
a neat silk gimp all round and over all the joinings. It should be of a
clear, bright color. The ends are to be fringed with scarlet and blue,
to correspond with the two half stripes. This is suitable for a walking
dress, or an evening party.
A DRESS SHAWL.--Take a half square of one yard and twelve nails of satin
velvet or plush, which you please, and line it with sarcenet either
white, or colored; trim the two straight edges with a hem of either silk
or satin, from one to one nail and a half in breadth, and cut crossway.
Or you may trim it with fur, lace, or fringe.
CASHMERE SHAWL.--You will require for the centre a piece of colored
Cashmere, one yard six nails square, which is to be hemmed round with a
narrow hem. You must then take four stripes all of Cashmere, or of a
shawl bordering to harmonize or contrast well with the centre, which
must be hemmed on both sides, and then sewed on, so as that the stitches
may appear as little as possible. The border should be three nails
broad, and of course joined point to point at the corners; and it must
be so set on as that the two corners shall fall properly over each
other. The shawl is finished by a fringe set on all round, and sometimes
by a colored gimp laid on over the joinings.
A LADY'S WALKING SHAWL.--This may be made of cloth, merino, or silk; and
either a whole, or half square, at pleasure. The dimensions are one yard
and twelve nails, and the lining is of silk. In order that when the
shawl is doubled the hems of both folds may appear at the same time,
care must be taken, after laying on the border on two successive sides,
to turn the shawl, and then lay on the remainder of the border. The
trimmings for these kind of shawls are of great variety.
A TRAVELLING SHAWL.--This is easily made, and is very warm and
convenient. Take a square of wadding, and double it cornerways; cover it
with muslin, or silk, and trim it as you please.
MOURNING SHAWLS.--These may be made either of half a square of black
silk, entirely covered with crape, which is proper for deep mourning, or
you may take half a square of rich and rather dull black silk, and
border it with a hem of crape, two nails deep, laid on upon the two
straight sides of the shawl.
SHIFTS.--These are generally made of fine Irish, or calico. They are
made either with gores, or crossed. The latter is the neatest method.
Two breadths are sufficient for a full sized shift, and gores are cut
off a given width at the bottom, and extending to a point, in order to
widen the garment. In crossing a shift, you first sew the long seams;
then you double it in a slanting direction, so as to mark off at the
top and bottom ten nails at opposite corners; this done, you join the
narrow ends together, and sew the cross seams, leaving a sufficient slit
for the arm holes. There are various methods of cutting the back and
bosom. Some cut out a scollop both before and behind; but in this case,
the back is hollowed out one third less than the front. Some ladies
hollow out the back, but form the bosom with a flap, which may be cut
either straight, or in a slanting direction from the shoulders. Another
method of forming the bosom is by cutting the shoulder-straps separate
from the shift, and making the top quite straight; bosom gores are then
let in, in front; the top is hemmed both before and behind, and a frill
gives a neat finish to the whole. The sleeves may be either set in plain
or full, as suits the taste of the wearer. Sometimes the sleeve and
gusset are all in one piece; at other times they are separate. In all
cases, great care should be taken in cutting out, not to waste the
material. For this purpose it is always advisable to cut out several at
one time. Shifts for young children of from five to ten years of age,
are generally made with flaps both before and behind. This is decidedly
the neatest shape for them. The bottom, in all cases, should be hemmed
with a broad hem.
SHIRTS.--These are generally made of linen; but calico is also made use
of. The degree of fineness must be determined by the occupation and
station of the wearer. A long piece of linen will, if cut with care,
make several shirts of an ordinary man's size. In cutting, you must take
a shirt of the required dimensions, as a pattern; and, by it, measure
the length of several bodies, not cutting any but the last. Then cut off
the other bodies; and from the remainder, cut off the sleeves, binders,
gussets, &c., measuring by the pattern. Bosom-pieces, falls, collars,
&c., must be fitted, and cut by a paper or other pattern, which suits
the person for whom the articles are intended.
In making up, the bodies should be doubled, so as to leave the front
flap one nail shorter than that behind. Then, marking off the spaces for
the length of the flaps and arm holes, sew up the seams. The bosom-slit
is five nails, and three nails is the space left for the shoulders. The
space for the neck will be nine nails. One breadth of the cloth makes
the sleeves, and the length is from nine to ten nails. The collar, and
the wristbands, are made to fit the neck and wrists, and the breadths
are so various, that no general rule can be given. You make the binders,
or linings, about twelve nails in length, and three in breadth; and the
sleeve gussets are three; the neck gusset, two; the flap gussets, one;
and the bosom gusset, half a nail square. The work, or stitches,
introduced into the collar, wristbands, &c., are to be regulated
according to the taste of the maker, or the wearer.
Gentlemen's night shirts are made in a similar manner, only they are
larger. The cloth recommended to be used, is that kind of linen which is
called shirting-width. Where a smaller size is required, a long strip
will cut off from the width, which will be found useful for binders,
wristbands, &c.
VEILS.--These are made of net, gauze, or lace, and are plain or worked,
as suits the taste of the wearer. White veils are generally of lace:
mourning ones are made of black crape. The jet-black is to be preferred,
as it wears much better than the kind termed blue-black. Colored veils
look well with a satin ribbon of the same color, about a nail deep, put
on as a hem all round. For white ones, a ribbon of a light color is
preferable, as it makes a slight contrast. A crape, or gauze veil, is
hemmed round; that at the bottom being something broader than the rest.
All veils have strings run in at the top, and riding ones are
frequently furnished with a ribbon at the bottom, which enables the
wearer to obtain the advantage of a double one, by tying the second
string round her bonnet, where she is desirous to screen her eyes from
the sun and dust, and at the same time to enjoy the advantage of a cool
and refreshing breeze. Demi-veils are short veils, fulled all round the
bonnet, but most at the ears, which makes them fall more gracefully. It
is advisable to take them up a little at the ears, so as not to leave
them the full depth: without this precaution, they are liable to appear
unsightly and slovenly.