_Spaniards_ call’d _The Imperial City_, built at the Foot of a Mountain
bearing the same Denomination, on a barren Soil under a cold Climate,
though but twenty one Degrees to the Southward of the _Equinoctial
Line_: the Cold proceeds from the high Lands, which lie bare to the
bleak and sharp Winds call’d _Tomohavi_, which blow every year very
fiercely from _May_ till _September_. But though the barren Countrey
produces no Fruit, yet no place in _Peru_ hath greater plenty of all
Provisions and Dainties than this, the Markets being always full of
Fruit, Salt-Meat, _Maiz_, _Papas_, Wheat, Sugar, Sweet-meats, and all
things that are requisite for the subsistence of Man-kind, which are
brought thither from all parts for the Silver, which is there in such
plenty. As to what concerns the famous Mountain _Potosi_ in the Countrey
of _Charcas_, it is of an Ash colour, and rises above the adjacent
Mountains in the form of a Sugar-Loaf; on the top of it stands a
Chappel, to which leads a craggy Path, which with a little care may be
rid up with a Horse; the heighth thereof is a thousand six hundred and
twenty four Rods, or a quarter of a League: at the Foot thereof appears
the Mine call’d _Guaina Potosi_, that is, The _young Potosi_; near which
the City _Potosi_ stands, being two Leagues in circumference, and is
adorn’d with a Church and Cloyster for the _Dominicans_, and exceedingly
resorted to by Traders.
In the time when the _Ingas_ Govern’d _Peru_, the Silver-Mines at
_Porco_ were very famous; but it was not till after the arrival of the
_Spaniards_ that Silver was found in _Guaina Potosi_, and by degrees the
Silver Veins which lay hid in the great _Potosi_; the manner of which
Discovery was as followeth:
[Sidenote: The occasion of the first Discovery of the Mines in
_Potosi_.]
A _Peruvian_ call’d _Gualpa_, who work’d in the Mines at _Porco_, going
a Hunting, it chanc’d that the Game ran up the steep Mountain of
_Potosi_, which prevented his pursuing of it any farther; but the
Mountain being overgrown with Trees, he got hold from one Bough to
another to help himself up, and at last taking hold of the Bramble
call’d _Quinua_, he pull’d the same out of the Ground, and finding it
heavy, look’d upon it, and espy’d a great lump of Silver hanging at the
Root of it; whereupon viewing the Hole, he discover’d a rich Silver
Vein; of which taking some pieces home, and melting them, he found that
it was the best Silver that ever he had known; wherefore he privately
got a greater quantity, and by degrees grew extraordinary rich: but
though he carried his Design never so close, yet he was at last
suspected, and especially by his Neighbor _Guanca_, born in the Valley
_Xauxa_, who was the more jealous of him, because he sold greater Bars
of Silver than any were cast at _Porco_; whereupon he resolv’d to speak
to him, and getting out the Secret, it came to this Agreement between
them, That they should both be Partners and share the Booty; _Gualpa_
was to keep the Vein, since call’d _The Rich Vein_, and _Guanca_ was to
have another, at present nam’d _Diego Centeno_: but they agreed not
long; for _Guanca_ finding much labor upon his Vein, by reason of the
hardness, and that he could get no share in what _Gualpa_ got,
acquainted his _Spanish_ Master _Vilaroel_ with it, who rested not till
he had found out the truth thereof; for which _Vilaroel_ obtain’d
(according to the Custom of _Porco_) several Rods to work for himself,
onely paying the King one fifth part of what he got, and so remain’d
Owner of the Mine _Centeno_.
[Sidenote: The Mine _Potosi_, when discover’d.]
This Discovery of the rich Mine _Potosi_ is said to have hapned on the
twenty fourth of _April_, _Anno 1545._ Soon after which they found the
Silver Vein _Del Estanno_, which though it was very rich, was difficult
to be digg’d, because of its hardness. The first Vein which _Gualpa_
search’d after stood upright from the bottom of the Mine, and contain’d
above three hundred Foot in length, and thirteen in breadth, and
continuing good for two hundred Foot in depth, after which the Silver
begins to lessen.
The _Peruvians_ relate, That the _Ingas_ first began to dig in _Potosi_,
but gave it over because the Workmen heard a terrible Voice, saying,
_Leave off doing what you are about; the Treasures which lie hid here,
are reserv’d for a People out of foreign Countreys_.
These Mines produce yearly for the King’s fifth part, forty thousand
Pieces of Silver, each valu’d at thirteen _Ryals_, each _Ryal_ being
four Shillings, besides what he is defrauded of, which is perhaps half
as much more.
The Mines of _Potosi_ exceed all other, because the Diggers never meet
with any Water, notwithstanding they work above two hundred Fathom under
Ground, whereas the other Silver Mines suffer great damage by the Water;
which was also the reason why the _Spaniards_ left off digging of Silver
in _Porco_, because they were not onely forc’d to cut through hard
Rocks, but ran greater danger, or at least bestow’d extraordinary labor
to get out the Water which broke in upon them.
[Sidenote: Four Silver Veins, with their several Divisions.]
The four Silver Veins of _Potosi_, _viz._ _The Rich_, _Centeno_, _Del
Estanno_, and _Mendieta_, lie on the East-side of the Mountain, and
extend North and South. The great Veins produce lesser, not unlike the
Body of a Tree, from which shoot forth several degrees of Boughs. Each
Vein is divided into several parts, possess’d by several Owners; the
least part is open’d four Rods, and the biggest eighty; for none are
permitted by the Law to open a bigger Hole. In the time of the Jesuit
_Joseph de Acosta_, an Eye-witness, who _Anno 1587._ went from _Peru_ to
_Spain_, the _Rich Vein_ was reckon’d to contain eighty seven Mines, of
which some were digg’d two hundred Fathom deep. The _Spaniards_ judge
that at the Root of the _Rich Vein_ is an incredible Treasure, though
Experience hath hitherto taught us, that the Silver lessens in price and
quantity the deeper they dig in the Ground.
[Sidenote: The _Socabonos_ or Trenches, with the manner of Mining.]
For the more easie working in the Mines, the _Spaniards_ have digg’d
Trenches (which they call _Socabonos_) at the Foot of the Mountain
towards the West, cross through the Mountain to the Mine, each of them
being eight Foot broad and a Fathom deep, and lock’d up with Gates,
through which the Silver is carried out, whereof the Owner of the
_Socabon_ receives a fifth part. The _Socabon_ which leads to the _Rich
Vein_, was begun _Anno 1556._ and finish’d in twenty nine years, extends
it self two hundred and fifty Rods in length. The Miners work by
Candle-light both Day and Night by turns; those that work in the Day,
sleep in the Night, and those that work in the Night, sleep in the Day.
The Oar, which is as hard as a Stone, is cut out with Pick-axes, beaten
in pieces with an Iron Crow, and carried upon their Backs on Ladders
made of Leather: Each Ladder hath three Fastnings about the thickness of
a Cable, stretch’d out by Sticks, so that one goes up on one side,
whilest another comes down on the other. Each Ladder being ten Fathom
long, is pitch’d upon its several Floor on which the Laborers rest
before they go up higher, for they make divers Floors according to the
depth of the Mine. The Laborers carry the Oar in Bags fastned before on
their Breasts, and falling back over their Shoulders three and three
together, the foremost whereof ties a lighted Candle to his Thumb, and
thus they help themselves with both Hands. It is a wonderful thing to
consider, how the _Peruvians_ are able to scramble up and down
continually a hundred and fifty Fathom: But besides many other
Inconveniences, the Mines often fall in, or at least great pieces, which
bury all the Diggers. The Mines also, being excessive cold, occasion to
those that are not us’d to them, a _Vertigo_ in the Head, and Vomiting.
The Silver runs for the most part between two Rocks, as it were, in a
long Channel, of which one side is as hard as Flint, and the other much
softer. This Silver is of different value; the best, call’d _Cacilla_ or
_Tacana_, resembles Amber in colour; the worser sort is blackish, and
sometimes of an Ash-colour. The pieces of Oar are carry’d on the Backs
of the Sheep _Pacos_ to the Mill, where being ground to Powder, they are
put into Furnaces to melt; of which there were once above six thousand
on the top of _Potosi_; but since the Quicksilver was found to cleanse
the same, not a third part remains pure.
In former times the Mines at _Porco_, two Leagues from the little Lake
_Aulagas_, produc’d those vast Treasures gather’d by the _Ingas_, which
afterwards for the most part fell into the _Spaniards_ Hands.
[Sidenote: Port-Towns, Rivers, and Havens of _Los Charcas_.]
As concerning the Sea-Coast of _Los Charcas_, it lies as followeth:
Southerly from the River _Tambopalla_ puts forth a three-pointed Rock
into the Ocean, and makes the Haven _De Ylo_, into which falls a fresh
River. Next follow the round Hill _Morro de los Diabolos_, and the Inlet
before the Town _Arica_, secur’d from all except a Westerly Wind, where
the Silver that comes from _Potosi_ is Shipp’d for _Lima_. Since the
_English_ Admiral Sir _Francis Drake_ took three Barks out of this Inlet
it is fortifi’d with a Castle, which is stor’d with Brass Guns.
Nine Leagues Southward the _Pissaqua_ falls into the Ocean; and next you
come to the little Village _Hicahic_, situate on a high and barren Tract
of Land; as also the Haven _Terrapaca_, which by an Inland is made very
secure.
Not far from hence appears the Foot of _Piqua_, where the Coast begins
to rise very high; the Head of _Tacama_, the Stream _Lottoya_, otherwise
call’d _De Loa_, whose Banks are inhabited by poor People; the River
_Montelo_, the Promontory _Morro Moreno_, beyond whose utmost Point
opens a Bay, secur’d from all Winds by an Island. The Inhabitants here
feed on raw Fish.
Next the River _Claru_ comes in view, which is taken for a Boundary
between _Peru_ and _Chili_.
Eastward up into the Countrey you come to _Santa Cruiz_, built at the
Foot of a Mountain in a Plain near a Brook, which rushing forth from a
Rock glides through the City to a Lake full of delicious Fish. The
Houses of Stone, are cover’d with Palm-Tree Leaves; and besides the
Church there is also a Cloyster, inhabited by the Monks _De la Merced_.
In former times the _Peruvian_ Houses were built of Clay, and were often
destroy’d by their Neighbors the _Cheriguanacs_ and _Titanes_, who made
Feasts with as many as they took of them. The People about this Place
are meek and poor spirited, and speak besides four Languages, the
_Diagnitan_ Tongue, common amongst all of them. Before the Arrival of
the _Spaniards_ they went Cloth’d in Ostritches Feathers, but since
taught to weave Cotton, they now make their Apparel of the same, and
upon the account of Barter, drive a great Trade in it: They Dye their
Cotton with the boyl’d Roots and Leaves of a little Tree.
Eastward beyond _Santa Cruiz_ lies the Countrey _Paicanos_, eminent for
the great _Calabashes_ which grow there, exceeding good to keep both wet
and dry Meats in.
The Countrey receives a vicissitude of excessive Cold and intolerable
Heat; the hard Winters taking beginning in _May_, and continuing till
the beginning of _August_. In the middle of our Summer a South-wind
blows seven Weeks together here, to the great prejudice of all Plants,
which are during that time often wash’d away by continual Rains. About
_Christmas_ they Sowe, and gather in their Harvest in _March_. During
the rainy Season the Ways cannot be travell’d, being all overflow’d by
the Rivers; neither doth the _Palm-Wood_, which is four days Journey in
length, permit any access to the said City _Santa Cruiz_, because the
conflux of Waters makes it a Moor all over; besides which, the Tygers,
Bears, and Serpents, make the Ways dangerous, especially at that time.
Through this Countrey the _Spanish_ Captain _Nusco de Chavas_ travell’d,
when he discover’d the _Taguamacis_, a numerous People, which dwell
along the great River _De la Plata_.
The Countrey about _Santa Cruiz_ produces all manner of Fruit, but few
Trees, because of the want of Rain; but Corn, _Maiz_, Wine,
_Granadillas_, _Luiumas_, and _Tucumay_, as also the Plant _Hachalindi_,
in the _Latine_ Tongue call’d _Mirabile Peruanum_, grow here in great
abundance; which last shoots up to the bigness of a pretty large Body,
full of Juice, and of a yellowish colour, out of which shoot knotty
Boughs, and about each Knot two Leaves resembling the Herb _Nightshade_;
the Flowers which hang at the ends of the Boughs are long, and pleasant
to the Eye, by reason of their mixture of Purple, White, and Yellow, and
also of a sweet smell. It is a strange Secret in Nature, that this
Flower opens at Midnight, if any Light come near the same: The Root also
is accounted an effectual Medicine against the Dropsie.
SECT. VII.
Collao.
[Sidenote: Situation and Description of _Collao_.]
_Collao_ lieth Southward of those Countries, which go under the general
Name of the Province of _Cusco_, having on the West, _Lima_; on the
South, _Charcas_; but Eastward, and to the North-East, it is shut up by
a Ridge of Mountains, running in one Body or continu’d Tract from the
Confines of _Collao_, as far as the City of _Cusco_, where they divide.
The Countrey is generally plain, commodiously water’d in all Parts with
fresh Rivers, and consequently affording rich Pasturage and good Herds
of Cattel.
[Sidenote: Chief Towns and Places of note.]
The chief Towns and Places of note are, 1. _Chuquinga_, a great Town,
and held to be naturally almost impregnable, as being environ’d round
about either with deep unfordable Waters, or with Mountains unpassable,
and having one onely Cawsey leading to it, reported to be for two or
three Leagues together no broader than to permit one single Person to
march conveniently upon it.
2. The City _Pucara_, which was formerly well inhabited, but at present
nothing remains of it, except the ruin’d Walls of great Houses, and
large Images of Stone.
3. _Ayavire_, by the _Spaniards_ call’d _Las Sepulturas_, being a Place
especially enobled by the stately Monuments of the _Peruvian_ Nobility
which were found there.
4. _Hatuncolla_, the Metropolis or chief Town of this Province, seated
upon the Banks of the River _Caravaya_, whose Streams are very much
fam’d for Gold.
[Illustration: CALLAO de LIMA]
The River _Caravaya_, which glides from the _Andes_ Eastward to the City
_Juan del Oro_, produces much fine Gold, but not without the loss of
many People, which are kill’d by the unwholsom Air and Damps that arise
here.
[Sidenote: The Lake _Titicaca_.]
The Lake _Titicaca_, which washes the Countrey _Collao_ on the North,
the Province of _Omasuy_ on the East, _Chaquito_ on the West, and
_Chuquiabo_ on the South, is one of the greatest Lakes of _America_,
being eighty Leagues in circumference, and in several places as many
Fathom deep; wherefore it is exceeding rough in windy Weather. Into this
Lake ten great Rivers discharge their Waters, which run away again
through a narrow, but very deep Channel, in which the Stream runs so
strong, that no Boats are able to abide in it.
5. _Chinquita_, a Colony of _Spaniards_ upon the Banks of _Titicaca_,
having many small Islands in it of a good and fruitful Soil, abounding
in Fish and variety of Sea-Fowl; it is suppos’d to be fourscore Leagues
distant likewise from the South Sea, having onely one _Estuary_ or
Mouth, which is something strait, but of such a deep Water and violent
Stream, that (as _Acosta_ testifieth of it) it is not possible to build
a Bridge of Stone or Timber over it; but the Natives in stead thereof
have laid a Bridge of Straw upon it, which serves as well, _viz._ so
many great Bundles of Straw, Sedge, or such like matter, well and surely
made up and fastned together, as will reach from one side or Bank of the
_Estuary_ to another; at which likewise having made them sure, they cast
some good quantity of more Straw and Sedge upon them, and have a Bridge
very convenient, upon which they both securely pass themselves, and also
drive Cattel, and do other necessary Business. The Water is neither
bitter nor brackish, yet is not drinkable because of its muddiness.
Several Islands that lie in the Lake serv’d formerly for Store-houses of
the chiefest Goods, which the People thereabouts living near the
High-way would not trust in their Villages.
[Sidenote: The Plant _Totara_.]
Here grows a certain Broom-Plant call’d _Totara_, good for many uses,
and is also wholsom Food both for Man and Beast; moreover, they cover
their Houses with the same, burn it on their Hearths, and make Boats.
The _Uros_, a salvage People, made Floats of _Totara_, which they ty’d
together, and built Villages on the same, which drove to and again,
according as the Wind blew.
The Lake also breeds abundance of Fish, and especially two sorts, _viz._
_Suches_, which are very pleasing to the Palate, but unwholsom; and the
_Bogas_, which though less, and full of Bones, are a much better Food.
There likewise breed plenty of Fowls about the same, especially wild
Geese and Ducks.
When the _Peruvians_ intend to Entertain any Person, they go to catching
of Fowls (by them call’d _Chaco_) after this manner: They make a Circle
with the Floats nam’d _Balsas_, and Rowing close to one another, take up
the inclos’d Fowl with their Hands.
Moreover, the fore-mention’d Channel, through which the Lake _Titicaca_
discharges its Water, ends in a little Lake call’d _Aulagas_, likewise
full of desolate Isles, but hath no visible place into which to empty
its Water, therefore it must needs, according to the course of Nature,
fall under Ground, where it commixes with a Stream whose original is
unknown, though it be seen to fall into the South Sea.
The Town is a Place of extraordinary Wealth and Trading, and so
considerable, that the Governor thereof is always nam’d by the King of
_Spain_ himself, and his Place estimated at fifty thousand Ducats _per
Annum_.
6. _Tiaguanaco_, at the _Estuary_, or Mouth of the Lake, memorable onely
for the Ruines of certain great and stupendious Buildings which
antiently have stood there, some of the Stones whereof are said to have
been of thirty Foot length apiece, fifteen Foot broad, and six or seven
Foot thick. There were likewise found the Statues of certain Men
excellently Carv’d and Wrought, of a Gigantick stature or bigness, and
likewise veiled in foreign and strange Habits, not at all us’d, nor ever
known to have been us’d by the _Peruvians_ themselves, or by any other
of the Natives of _America_.
7. _Nuestra Sennora de la Paz_, or _Our Lady of Peace_, otherwise call’d
_Pueblo Nuevo_: It is but a small Town, yet pleasantly seated upon the
Banks of a River in a fair and fruitful Plain, full of Springs,
Fruit-Trees, _Savanas_, and Fields of _Maiz_, having Mountains on either
side: It lieth almost in the middle of the Province _Chuquinabo_,
fourteen Leagues distant from _Cusco_, and as many from _Potosi_. The
Province _Chuquinabo_ it self (which in the _Peruvian_ Tongue signifies
_Inheritance of Gold_) hath many rich Gold-Mines, good Salt-pits, and a
temperate Climate, except from the beginning of _December_ till _March_,
in which time the continual Rains cause Feavers and Agues. The
Inhabitants being very poor People, us’d to go naked in the Summer
Season.
8. _Copavana_, two and twenty Leagues beyond _Lopoz_: It is onely
inhabited by _Peruvians_; amongst whom an Image of the Virgin _Mary_,
long since erected there, hath been ever in great veneration, especially
by reason of a Tradition of a great Miracle there perform’d: for the
_Spaniards_ affirm, That _Johannes Anachoreta_ going a Journey of
several Weeks from home, plac’d a lighted Candle before the Image, which
during the time of his absence did not at all diminish.
[Sidenote: A strange Earthquake at _Angoanga_.]
An Accident which fell out in this Countrey is very remarkable, _viz._
The Ground of an old Village call’d _Angoanga_, then inhabited by
eminent Necromancers, began on a sudden to swell, and the Earth to run
like a broken Wave two Leagues, overwhelming the Houses in Sand, and
filling up a neighboring Lake.
[Sidenote: The like in _Herefordshire_ in _England_.]
Eight years before this terrible Earthquake here, there hapned in the
County of _Hereford_ in _England_ almost the same kind of prodigious
Motion: for not far from the Town _Ledborough_, arose _Marcely Hill_ to
an exceeding heighth, and moving along bury’d all whate’re it met with,
after which manner it continu’d for the space of three days, to the
great terror of all that beheld it.
9. _Chilane_; 10. _Acos_; 11. _Pomata_, and some others, all of them
good Towns, but not so considerable as those other.
[Sidenote: Roads and High-ways made by the _Ingas_.]
Concerning the Roads or High-ways, it may well be said, That none of the
seven Wonders of the World can compare with any one of them; neither was
the Way that _Appius Claudius_ made from _Rome_ to _Brundusium_, upon
the repairing of which the Emperors _Julius_ and _Augustus_ spent great
sums of Money, fit to stand in competition with the Roads made by the
_Ingas_ in _Peru_: for who cannot but admire at the consideration of so
many Valleys fill’d with Mountains, the hardest Rocks cut asunder, Moors
damm’d up, great Stone Bridges laid over swift gliding Streams, and
through vast Wildernesses a Way made of twenty Foot broad, inclos’d in
high Walls, extending from _Quito_ to _Chilo_, a thousand Leagues, and
at the end of every ten Leagues brave Houses or Magazines, stor’d with
Bowes, Arrows, Halberds, Axes, Clubs, Clothes, and Provision for twenty
or thirty thousand Men. Some relate, that _Guainacava_, when he return’d
Victor from the conquer’d Countrey _Quito_, suffer’d great
Inconveniences on the pathless Mountains, and thereupon Commanded his
Subjects to make the fore-mention’d Way. But it is more probable, that
this Master-piece was not the work of one _Inga_, especially since
besides the Way from _Chili_ to _Quito_ there leads another through the
Mountains over the Plains from _Cusco_ to _Quito_, forty Foot broad, and
five hundred Leagues long, inclos’d within two Walls.
[Sidenote: The manner of the _Peruvian_ Registers.]
The _Peruvians_ relate from the testimony of the _Quipos_, much more
concerning these High-Ways, and other Buildings on them, made by
_Guainacava_. These _Quipos_ are Rowls of divers colour’d Strings, full
of all manner of Knots, which serve in stead of Characters to keep their
Chronicles; in which were employ’d the _Quipo-Camayos_, who being in the
nature of our Secretaries, Registred all Transactions, performing the
same with the several Strings and Buttons, with which they gave
Obligations, Discharges, and the like: but besides the _Quipos_ they
also us’d Rings full of little Stones for the same purpose; and knew
with _Maiz_-Seed how to cast up an Account as well as the best
Arithmetician with Figures.
Their Account of Time hung on the twelve Pillars _Succanga_, erected on
a Mountain beyond _Cusco_ by the Inga _Pachacuma_, that is, _The
Regulator of the Year_, to shew the Course of the Sun, and according to
that their appointed Feast-days, times of Sowing and Harvest: Their Year
begins in _December_.
[Sidenote: The present State of _Peru_ under the _Spanish_ Government.]
The _Spanish_ Government in the Kingdom of _Peru_ is setled at present
in great tranquility and splendor. The Vice-Roy, who keeps a splendid
Court in _Lima_, otherwise call’d _Los Reyos_, Commands over _Chili_ and
_Terra Firma_, and never comes abroad without a Guard of forty
Halberdeers: when he travels by Land he is accompanied by the
Arch-bishop, and guarded by his forty Halberdeers, a hundred Pike-men,
and fifty Musquetteers. His Reign is generally not above six or eight
years, during which time he receives forty thousand Ducats _per Annum_
out of the King’s Exchequer.
[Sidenote: The present flourishing Condition of the City _Los Reyos_.]