formerly possess’d by the _Caranes_, betwixt the Promontory _Passao_ and
the River _Dable_. These People are said to this day to carve and cut
their Faces from their Ears to their Chins; about their Necks and Arms
they wear Chains of Gold and little red Corals, call’d _Chaquina_,
highly esteem’d by the _Peruvians_. This Town was formerly famous for a
great Emerauld, which was religiously worshipp’d there.
11. _Guayaquil_, otherwise call’d _Culata_, built at a deep Inlet of the
Sea, near the River _Anebato_, which with great swiftness falls down
from the Mountains _Quito_, is surrounded with a fertile Soyl; and in
the hollow Trees is found plenty of Honey. The Water of the
fore-mention’d River, being of great vertue in curing the _Morbus
Gallicus_, hath great resort of People from all places; who likewise
gather the _Sarsaparilla_ that grows along the Banks. The Bridge which
the Inga _Guaynacava_ began to lay cross this River, is also very
remarkable, but he dying, it was left unfinish’d. The _Guancabilcas_
were heretofore under the Jurisdiction of this City _Guayaquil_.
12. _Castro_, so call’d from a strong Fort built there by a _Spanish_
Captain, and situate in the Valley _Vili_, not far from _Guayaquil_.
13. The City _Loxa_, built in the Countrey of the _Paltas_, a People
that went naked, between two Arms of the River _Catamayo_ under a
wholsom Climate, near the High-way that leads to _Cusco_ in the Valley
_Curibamba_, where no poysonous Beast was ever found. The Soil bears
abundance of Oaks, Hazles, Ash, Willow, and Cedar-Trees; _Maiz_, Barley,
and Wheat. Not far from the City springs a hot and sulphurous Fountain,
which cures all sorts of Sores and Wounds. The Countrey hereabouts is
likewise stor’d with Fowls, Venison, Cattel, and Fish. Moreover, the
City receives no small lustre from two _Dominican_, and one _Franciscan_
Cloyster. Eastward from which lie desolate Mountains, whose tops are
continually cover’d with Snow. Not far from hence were formerly two
noble Palaces, _Piedras_ and _Tamboblanco_, besides several Villages.
14. _Cuenca_, wherein are also large Structures for the Monks and
Priests: The Countrey about the same hath rich Mines of Gold, Silver,
Quicksilver, Copper, Iron, and Sulphur.
15. _Zamora_, Eastward from the cold Mountains _Andes_, built in a
Marshy Soyl, where the Inhabitants are never visited with Pestilential
Distempers, and use no other Physick for such Sicknesses as they are
troubled with, than Tobacco, and the Herb _Aquacolla_. But there is a
certain Nut that grows hereabouts, which occasions sudden death, if
eaten raw, but being boyl’d, is a wholsom Food. The Mines afford great
pieces of Gold, of which one weighing eighteen Pound, was presented to
_Philip_ the Second, King of _Spain_. The briny Springs produce good
Salt. Three Rivers falling from the Mountains, are noted for their
Golden Sands, and also afford delicious Fish. The Bees being here void
of Stings, furnish the Inhabitants with plenty of Honey. The Tygers and
little Lyons devour many of the Sheep _Pacos_, Goats, Hogs, and other
Cattel, and sometimes the Natives themselves. The City it self is neatly
built with Woodden and Stone Houses, and adorn’d with a Church and
_Dominican_ Cloyster, besides a stately Palace, the Residence for the
King’s Receiver. The Natives about this Place are a stupid and barbarous
People, which before the _Spaniards_ coming thither, would for a small
trifle kill one another.
[Illustration: EXPUGNATIO PAYTÆ]
16. The City _Yaen_, situate in the Countrey _Chuiquimayo_; it is so
call’d from a swift River, cross which the _Peruvian_ Women and Children
swim, to the great amazement of the _Spaniards_. They paint their Bodies
black with the Juice of the Root _Yaguas_, and feed for the most part on
the stamp’d Plant _Yaca_. On the other side of the Mountain, which rises
on the Banks of _Chuquimayo_, lies the Countrey _Perico_, fruitful and
well inhabited, against which juts the Golden Countrey _Cherinos_.
_Peru_ hath also several delightful Valleys, amongst which on the North
the chiefest are the _Tumbez_, _Solana_, _Poechos_, and _Piura_, all of
them very fertile, full of stately Buildings, and water’d by several
Rivers.
17. _San Miguel_, the first City that was built by the _Spaniards_ in
_Peru_, situate in a sandy and dry Soyl, being extraordinary dusty in
Summer, and very slabby in the Winter, because the hard Ground cannot
soak up the Rain. The _Ingas_ made a Way through this Valley fifteen
Foot broad, between two Walls, and Planted Trees on each side.
[Sidenote: _Spilbergen_’s Attempt upon _Payta_.]
18. Westward from _Miguel_ appears _Payta_, near a convenient Haven in
the South-Sea, which _Anno 1547._ was burnt by _Thomas Candish_; since
which it had been re-built twenty eight years, when _Joris Spilbergen_,
after a hard Engagement with the _Spanish_ Admiral _Rodrigo Mendoza_,
arriving in the large Haven before _Payta_, sent eight Sail with three
hundred Armed Men up to the City, where finding the Enemy Encamp’d along
the Shore, he return’d without any effect; but two of his Frigats, the
_Eolus_ and the _Morning-Star_, running close to _Payta_, fir’d whole
Broad-sides at the same, whilest Captain _De Wit_ took a _Peruvian_
Fisher-man, who had been two Moneths out at Sea, and taken abundance of
Fish. The Guns which the Ships fir’d upon the Town struck such a terror
into the Citizens, that they fled with Bag and Baggage into the
Mountains, and left the City for a Prize to _Spilbergen_, who setting
fire on the same, in few hours burnt down two Churches, a _Dominican_
Cloyster, and several Alms-houses: But had not the Citizens been
cowardly, they might easily have kept off the _Hollanders_; for the
Vice-Roy _Ludovico Velasco_ inform’d of _Spilbergen_’s Arrival, had
stor’d the Place with Ammunition and Men, whose Courage failing, prov’d
successful for the _Hollanders_, who whilest they Rid here at an Anchor,
took a very strange Bird on the Island _Lobos_, lying before _Payta_,
being two Yards high and three thick, in its Bill, Wings, and Claws
resembling an Eagle, and having a large Crest on its Head. Not long
after _Donna Paula_ being Governess of _Payta_, a Lady famous in _Peru_
for her Beauty and obliging Nature, sent Cabbages, Oranges, Cittrons,
and other Provisions to the _Hollanders_, and requested the Releasement
of some of the _Spaniards_ taken in the Engagement against _Mendoza_,
but could not obtain her Request from the uncourtly _Dutchmen_.
SECT. III.
Los Quixos.
[Sidenote: Description of _Los Quixos_.]
The Province of _Los Quixos_ lieth South, and to the South-East of
_Quito_, being border’d more directly Eastward with a part of the
Province of _Guiana_, call’d by some _El Dorada_, or _The Golden
Countrey_; on the South it hath _Lima_ and _Cusco_.
[Sidenote: The _Canela_-Fruit.]
This Province is subdivided into several lesser Territories, _viz._
_Canela_, _Pacomores_, and _St. Juan de Salinas_. _Canela_ is so call’d,
because it hath many great Woods, which produce the Fruit _Canela_ in
great abundance, the Owners whereof were most inhumanely dealt with by
the _Spaniards_; for _Gonsalvo Pizarro_ supposing to get store of Gold
there, found nothing but Trees, bearing a Fruit like Olives, by the
Natives call’d _Canela_, with which they us’d to drive a great Trade,
being otherwise poor and simple People, living in Huts, which _Pizarro_
pulling down, caus’d the Inhabitants to be torn in pieces by his Dogs,
because they could not furnish him with Gold, nor direct him where it
was to be had.
[Sidenote: The _Granadilla_-Apple.]
Besides the _Canela_-Tree, this Countrey also produceth in great plenty
the Tree which beareth the Apples _Granadilla_, exceeding good against
burning Feavers; the Leaves are like Ivy, the Blossom resembling the
Sun, and the long Leaves speckled with Red and White, open three hours
after Sun-rising, and close again before the Evening, just as if Nature
took care to preserve the beauty of the Flower.
[Sidenote: Towns and Places of chief note.]
In this part of the Province the chief are, 1. _Baeza_, otherwise call’d
_Quixos_, built in the Year 1559. by _Ramires de Avila_, eighteen
Leagues from _Cusco_.
2. _Archidona_, twenty Leagues to the South-East of _Baeza_. 3. _Avila._
4. _Sevilla del Oro_, all of them _Spanish_ Colonies.
The Territories _Pacomores_ and _Yguansongo_, otherwise call’d _The
Countrey of Juan de Salinas_, are said both to extend above a hundred
Leagues in length, and little less in breadth. The Fields afford store
of Pasture for Cattel, the Plough’d Lands produce Wheat and all sorts of
wholsom Herbs; and in some places are also rich Gold-Mines.
The Governor _Layola_ built four Towns here, _viz._ 1. _Valladolid_; 2.
_Loyola_; 3. _San Jago de los Montanas_; and 4. _Caruma_.
The Jesuit _Acosta_ relates, That not far from _Caruma_ he found great
Stones, some of which were full of Golden Veins, but were hard to be cut
from the Rock. Most of the Gold is found in the Sand of several Rivers,
the chiefest whereof flow through _Quito_, _New Granada_, _Valdivia_ in
_Chili_, and _Caravaya_ in _Peru_.
On the Point of _Quito_, the River _San Jago_ falls into the Southern
Ocean; the Ground in the Mouth of the River being very uneven, for
oftentimes the Ships are fast aground at the Stern, and on Head they
have above eighty Fathom Water; yet nevertheless the Shoals are no ways
dangerous.
South-West from _St. Jago_ lies the spacious Inlet _Mattheo_, and the
Promontory _Francisco_, known by its Banks and high Grounds, which shew
red and white at a great distance.
Not far from hence, exactly under the _Equinox_, appears _Cape Passao_,
flat and low; between which and _Mattheo_, the great Rivers _Los
Quiximes_ fall into the Sea.
Behind _Passao_ rises the high Mountain _Quaque_; and more Westerly the
Bay _Caraques_ affords a secure Harbor for all manner of Vessels.
Next you come to the Town _Puerto Viejo_ before mention’d, lying behind
the Island _Laurenso_.
Five Leagues off at Sea, before _Laurenzo_, lies the Island _Plata_,
formerly famous for a _Peruvian_ Temple, in which the Natives Sacrifis’d
Sheep, and sometimes Children, and painted the Figures of divers Persons
with the Blood; to which they also Offer’d Jewels, Gold, Silver, Wooll,
Cotton Shirts, and Cloaks. _Francisco Pizarro_ arriving here, got an
invaluable Mass of Treasure; but at present it lying desolate, affords
nothing but Brambles and wild Trees.
The next which come in view are the Havens _Callo_ and _Zalango_, where
there are safe Harbors, good Wood and Water.
The Cape of _St. Helena_ makes also a secure Road on the North, and on
its Shore hath a Spring, on the top of whose Waters swims a certain Gum,
by the Natives call’d _Copey_, exceeding good to make Ships tight.
The River _Tumbez_ falls into a large Bay, which on its North-East Point
near the Main Land, hath the Island _Puna_, ten Leagues in
circumference: The Soyl whereof produces abundance of _Maiz_, _Fuca_,
and other good Roots, besides great Woods full of fruitful Trees, and
_Sarsaparilla_. The Inhabitants of a brown Complexion, and middle
Stature, wear Cotton Cloaks, and Chains of _Chaquira_ and Precious
Stones: They drive a great Trade, and formerly maintain’d Wars with the
People inhabiting upon the River _Tumbez_; their great want is fresh
Water in the Summer. _Thomas Candish_ Landing here _Anno 1587._ found a
Ship hal’d ashore, and three Villages, in one of which stood a Palace
belonging to a _Casique_, surrounded with Stone Galleries; and near it a
large Store-house full of Tar-pots and Hemp to make Cables of: The
Village consisted of two hundred Houses, and a fair Church with a
Steeple, in which hung several Bells. The _Casique_ Married to a
_Spanish_ Woman being fled with the Villagers, _Candish_ took many Oxen,
fat Sheep, Pigeons and Ducks, the Bells, and what else was not convey’d
aboard, with him, and, afterwards burnt the whole Town; but whilest he
was busie in making havock, a thousand _Spaniards_, and a considerable
number of _Peruvians_ fell upon the _English_ on such a sudden, that
they kill’d some, and took others Prisoners.
Somewhat farther off at Sea appears the Isle _Clara_, where those of
_Puna_ formerly buried their Dead.
The Inlet into which falls the River _Tumbez_, whose Shores are well
inhabited, ends Westward at the Promontory _Blanco_; Southward from
which lies the Isle _Lobos_, where there are several Springs full of the
same Gum, or _Bitumen_, a little above mention’d.
Beyond the Point _Agua_ lie the two Isles _Lobos Marinos_, opposite to a
low Coast; they are desolate, and barren of Grass, Trees, and all kind
of Herbs, and destitute of fresh Water; but many Pelicans, Penguins, and
other strange Birds.
The discovering of these Coasts belonging to the Jurisdiction of
_Quito_, deserves a short Relation:
[Sidenote: _Bevalcazar_ overcoming _Ruminagua_, takes _Quito_.]
[Sidenote: He comes to an Agreement with _Alvarado_.]
[Sidenote: _Pizarro_ and his Army driven to great Straights.]
[Sidenote: _Orellana_ cross’d in his Designs, dies for grief.]
[Sidenote: The miserable Condition of _Pizarro_’s Men.]
[Sidenote: _Quito_ very much defac’d by siding with _Vela_ against
_Gonsalvo Pizarro_.]
Whilest _Pizarro_ kept the Inga _Attabaliba_ Prisoner, he sent Captain
_Bevalcazar_ to the new Fort _St. Miguel_, where eighty Horse and a
hundred Foot being arriv’d from _Panama_ and _Nicaragua_, and he being
inform’d that there lay a great Treasure in _Quito_, and that the
_Canares_, the _Spaniards_ Friends, were exceedingly oppress’d by
_Ruminagua_, _Attabaliba_’s General, immediately march’d thither with
the new arriv’d Forces before mention’d, to fetch the Booty, and to
assist the _Canares_; but several things oppos’d him in his Design: for
_Ruminagua_ guarded the Way with twelve hundred _Indians_, digg’d Pits
in the same, and filling them with sharp Poles, cover’d them slightly
over with Canes and Earth; all which _Bevalcazar_ shunning, went about,
fell in upon the Rere of the Enemy, and after a small Resistance
conquer’d the City _Quito_. Mean while _Ferdinand Cortesio_ sent _Petro
Alvarado_ from _New Spain_, who taking _Guatimala_, receiv’d a
Commission from the _Spanish_ Court, to subdue the Northern parts of
_Peru_. Soon after which _Garcias Holgua_ being sent with two Ships to
enquire concerning the State of _Peru_, brought News back, That
_Francisco Pizarro_ had gotten an unvaluable Treasure at _Caxamalca_;
which so stirr’d up _Alvarado_, that he Landed five hundred Men at
_Puerto Viejo_, march’d in great want of Provisions over the Mountains
_Acabucos_, and had he not accidentally found a Pond of sweet Water in a
Thicket of Canes, both Men and Horses had all perish’d; at last upon his
approaching _Quito_, the Governor thereof, being _Bevalcazar_, not
enduring to suffer an Equal, drew up all his Men in Battel array; but
some Persons interceding between them, they were soon reconcil’d, and
_Alvarado_ being bought out with a great sum of Money, deserted _Quito_;
where after _Gonsalvo Pizarro_, had remain’d a considerable time he
march’d Eastward of the Province, which produces abundance of Cinamon;
whither he was accompanied by two hundred _Spaniards_ and four thousand
_Peruvians_; against whom the Natives dwelling on the Borders of _Los
Quixos_ fought very valiantly, till Night approaching, when they all ran
away; after which resting a while, there arose a mighty Tempest of
Thunder and Lightning, accompanied with a dreadful Earthquake, which
swallow’d above five hundred Houses, whole Woods and Fields, whilest an
unknown River burst out of the Earth, and overflow’d all the Countrey,
insomuch that _Pizarro_ expected nothing but a speedy Ruine, in regard
no Provisions were to be found in all the Countrey: at last getting on
the top of the nearest Mountain he lost many of his Men, who were frozen
to death with excessive Cold. From thence marching to the County
_Zumaque_, he got plenty of Provision and Cinamon, which grows on great
Trees in the Woods; the Leaves thereof resemble the Laurel; the Fruit
grows in little Berries; the Root and Bark have a strong odoriferous
smell. Thence travelling to the Town _Coca_, he found a mighty Cataract
of Water, falling from a Rock above fifteen hundred Ells high; insomuch
that the noise in calm Weather was heard six Leagues off. _Pizarro_
leaving his sick People in _Zumaque_, went onely with a few Eastward
from _Coca_ to the Plain Countrey _Guema_, full of Moorish Grounds, the
Inhabitants whereof went naked: at last he came to the great River
_Maranon_, which falls from the Mountains near _Quito_, and extends with
several windings above eight hundred Leagues in length, and at the Mouth
thereof is fifteen Leagues broad, which at that time overflowing all the
Countrey, he judg’d it convenient to build a Brigantine, making the
Shoes of the dead Horses serve for Iron-work, his Mens Shirts for Sails,
and a Gum, which was to be had there, for Tar, and having Lanch’d their
Vessel, and put all their Baggage and sick People into the same, they
Sail’d close along the Shore, on which _Pizarro_ made his Way through
Brambles and Canes, or went over in the Brigantine whensoe’re he espy’d
a better Path on the other side; in which manner they were gone two
hundred Leagues down the River, with no other Food but wild Fruit and
Roots; when Captain _Franciscus Orellana_, was order’d to Sail away
before with five Men, and seek out for Provisions, and at every Stream
which fell cross-ways out of the Countrey into the great River, he was
to leave a Mann’d Boat: but _Orellana_ in few days drove down so far
with the swift River, that he saw no likelihood of getting up again in a
whole year, neither could he find any Provisions, but fought daily with
the _Indians_, who came stoutly to Board him in little Boats: amongst
whom he was inform’d also, that thereabouts liv’d the _Amazon_ Women,
that Warr’d continually against their Neighbors; and at last he came
into the Northern Ocean. But _Orellana_ Sailing to _Spain_, obtain’d a
Commission to be Governor of the _Amazons_ Countrey, whither he steer’d
his Course with five hundred Men in three Ships; but Landing at the
_Canaries_ they all ran away from him, which so incens’d _Orellana_,
that he soon after dy’d with Grief. Mean while _Pizarro_ inform’d by a
_Spaniard_ whom _Orellana_ had put ashore, that the Brigantine was by
the strong Current carried into the Ocean, knew not what to do, his
People since their departure from _Quito_ having travell’d above four
hundred Leagues, had eaten most of their Horses: Many dy’d by feeding on
unwholsom Herbs; others fell down dead for Hunger, or tir’d out with
toilsom Travel; their Clothes, rotted by the Rain, hung upon them like
Rags, their Shoes were worn out, their Feet full of Blisters, their
Bodies sadly mangled with Brambles and Thorns, for no place afforded
them a Boat. _Pizarro_ leaving the River _Maranon_, went another Way, no
less troublesom for steep Rocks and inaccessible Mountains. The Valleys
through which they went, began now to be strew’d with dead and sick
Bodies, who were not able to follow the Army, which march’d very fast,
every one judging to be so much nearer his preservation the farther he
could get: Those that fainted call’d continually on their Friends for
help, but the Horses were grown too weak to carry them: Every one saw
nothing but Death before his Eyes; wherefore, though call’d by their
dearest and most intimate Friends that lay a dying, they never look’d
back, their compassion towards others being turn’d into fear and care of
themselves. The Forsaken implor’d their Saints, and besought _Pizarro_
for aid, but finding their Complaints to be in vain, and raging through
despair, they wish’d all the rest the same success, and the like
Friends, whenever they should be in the like Condition. _Pizarro_
extreamly griev’d and troubled, that he had brought the People into this
Misery, sent a few Horsemen before to _Quito_, to carry the sad News of
his deplorable Condition, that they might immediately send Provisions to
him; which he receiving when he was within fifty Leagues from the said
City _Quito_, distributed amongst those that were left alive, who being
also almost starv’d, eat so greedily, that several of them were chok’d;
the remainder were kept a considerable time in Garrison under the
Command of _Pizarro_ in _Quito_. Which City, built in a pleasant place,
grew very populous in the Year 1544. there being several Gold-Mines
found about the same in that time. But this lasted not long, for _Quito_
siding with the Vice-Roy _Blasco Nunnez Vela_ against _Gonsalvo
Pizarro_, most of the Citizens were destroy’d by him, and their Houses
burnt to Ashes. The like Destruction, and upon the same occasion, befel
the three Villages in the Province _Bracomoros_, discover’d by _Juan
Parzel_ and Captain _Vergara_, together with the Countrey
_Chichiapoios_, where _Alphonso Alvarado_ built the Town _Levanto_,
surrounded with deep Caverns, through which, to the great strengthning
of the City, flow several Rivers.
Round about _Puerto Viejo_ the Natives dwelt in Trees, whom the
_Spaniards_ had much ado to bring under their subjection; for their
Countrey being barren and mountainous, was not onely wanting in
Provisions to feed an Army, but the _Peruvians_ also threw great Stones
out of their Huts built in Trees, and likewise Javelins and Pots full of
boyling Water, with which they did much mischief to their Enemies that
Storm’d them, who at last covering themselves with Boards, cut down the
Trees, with which they falling were torn in pieces by the _Spanish_
Dogs.
SECT. IV.
Lima.
[Sidenote: Situation and Description of the Province of _Lima_.]
_Lima_, call’d also _Los Reyos_, hath on the East, _Collao_, and some
part of _Cusco_; on the North, _Los Quixos_; and on the South,
_Charcas_. The Countrey extendeth it self in length upon the Coasts of
the South Sea two hundred and fifty, some say, full three hundred
Leagues in length, _viz._ from _Cape del Aguia_ Northward, on the
Borders of _Quito_ as far as _Arequipa_ towards the South, and runs
Eastward to _Brasile_ and _Rio de la Palma_.
[Sidenote: The several Valleys of this Province.]
In this Province are several very pleasant Valleys, the first whereof is
_Motupe_, to which a sandy Way leads from _St. Miguel de Valverde_,
between barren Wilds, from whence several Streams falling are
immediately drunk up by the Sand; wherefore all Travellers that go that
way carry Water and Wine with them in _Calabashes_ for twenty Leagues
together, which they Walk or Ride by Night, because of the excessive
heat of the Sun.
In the Valley _Motupe_ grow abundance of Trees, which receive
nourishment from a River that springs up near the same. Here is also
much Cotton.
Not far from hence are the Valleys _Xayanca_, formerly very populous and
full of Palaces: The River which flows through the middle is led in
Trenches amongst the neighboring Fields.
The Valley _Tuqueme_ is also very pleasant, and the decay’d Palaces,
sufficiently testifie its former splendor.
The next being _Cinto_, is no way inferior to _Tuqueme_; and between
both lie sandy Hills and barren Rocks, on which grow neither Trees nor
Herbs, nor is any living Creature to be found upon them: the Way through
which being a whole days Journey, cannot be travell’d without sure
Guides.
The Valley _Collique_, water’d by a River of the same Denomination, and
very thick set with Trees, was formerly very populous, but since the
_Spanish_ Wars it is become quite desolate; for not onely a considerable
number of them were slain by the _Spaniards_, but also many destroy’d
themselves, Wives and Children; of which _Peter Martyr_, Councellor to
the Emperor _Charles_ the Fifth, sets down several terrible Examples, of
which two were remarkable above the rest; the first was after this
manner:
[Sidenote: Two tragical Passages.]