Rozen or Gum, no less precious than the _Storax_.
[Sidenote: Birds.]
But nothing grows here more plentifully than Vines, the Bodies or Stocks
of which are as thick as a Man’s Middle, and bear excellent Grapes.
Besides Partridges, Turtle-Doves, and other Fowl, the Sea-shore breeds
thousands of Cranes, which when young, are white, but when old, become
of several Colours; they stand commonly with their Legs in salt Water,
which they drink.
[Sidenote: Manner of taking Parrots.]
The Parrots which breed here us’d to be taken by the Natives after a
strange manner: A Boy having a Bundle of Herbs about his Head, climbs up
to the top of a Tree, holding a Parrot over his Head, which by griping
he forces to make a noise, and thereby draws others to come flying about
him; upon which, being expert in this Art, he throws a String with a
Noose made fast to a Stick about them, and pulls them to him.
There are a sort of four-footed Serpents, by the Natives call’d
_Yguanas_, of which they us’d to eat.
The Flesh of Tortoises or Turtles, was accounted a great Dainty amongst
them, especially those of the biggest size, of which some have been
known to weigh a hundred and thirty Pound: The Feet of them are said to
cure the Leprosie and Scabs.
Amongst the peculiar Trees of this Countrey, are the _Zagua_ and the
_Caninga_.
The Cotton, which is of the natural Growth of this Place, is exceeding
fine.
Here is also the Bird _Flamingo_, and another sort of Bird call’d
_Bambayas_.
In former times _Cuba_ was Govern’d by several Lords, each Commanding
over his own Province.
[Sidenote: Chief Provinces of _Cuba_.]
The chiefest of these Provinces are _Mayzi_, _Bayamo_, _Cueyba_,
_Camguey_, _Macaca_, _Xagua_, _Habana_, and _Uhima_; some of them are
plain, others mountainous, and being more or less fruitful, were very
populous, before the _Spaniards_ came thither, but since their cruel
Massacres, scarce any of the antient Natives are left: Nor are the
_Spaniards_ here at present very populous, considering the largeness of
the Island.
In the Province of _Camaguey_ is a Valley three Leagues in bigness,
where Nature produces a great number of large Stones so exactly round,
that no Man with a Compass can make a more exact Circle.
Though the Gold, which is digg’d out of the Mines, and found in Rivers,
is none of the purest, yet the Copper which this Countrey affords is
accounted excellent.
[Illustration: HAVANA]
[Sidenote: Serpents.]
The Serpents here are about the bigness of a Hare, having Heads like
Weezles; they prey on little Beasts call’d _Guabiniquinazes_, and have
been accounted delicious and wholsom Meat.
[Sidenote: Antient Customs of the Natives.]
The antient Natives went formerly naked. The Men made it a Custom to
forsake their Wives when they pleas’d; yet the Women were still oblig’d
to be faithful to them, though from the very first day of their Marriage
they were taught to Cuckold them, by a certain wicked Ceremony in use
amongst them; for the Bridegroom lay not with his Bride the first Night,
but suffer’d her to be enjoy’d by one of his Friends of equal Quality
with himself, whether he were Lord, Merchant, Laboring-man, or what
Estate soever.
[Sidenote: The _Spaniard_ at first beaten by the Natives.]
This Island was reduc’d under the _Spanish_ Government not without great
effusion of Blood; for the Natives having had continual Wars with the
Cannibals, as hath been said, were not ignorant in the Exercise of Arms.
The first _Spanish_ Commander sent against them was _Valdivia_, whom
they slew with all his Men, and hew’d his Ship in pieces. Little better
escap’d _Fogeda_, whose Men were all cut off, and he himself escaping
very miraculously, died not long after of his Wounds in _St. Domingo_.
[Sidenote: _St. Jago_ built by _Valasquez_.]
Within two years after, _viz._ _Anno 1514._ _Diego Velasquez_ with
better success set forth for _Cuba_, where the first thing he did was to
build a City, which he call’d _St. Jago_, lying near a Southern Bay,
full of Fish, and defended with several small Isles, behind which the
Ships in the greatest Storm may Ride very secure; by reason whereof the
new City increas’d so much, that in a short time it could shew two
thousand Inhabitants, a brave Church, a Cloyster, and was made a
Bishop’s See, but subordinate to that of _St. Domingo_.
[Sidenote: The Copper Mountains.]
[Sidenote: _St. Jago_ taken by the _English_.]
Three or four Leagues from the City are those famous Mountains, by the
_Spaniards_ call’d _Sierra de Cobre_, or _The Copper Mountains_, from
the abundance of that Metal which the Mines in them afforded, and do yet
afford; but the City was afterwards almost left desolate, (divers Houses
in the same standing empty) having in it scarce two hundred Inhabitants;
which made it the easier to be taken by a hundred and sixty
_English_-men, led by Captain _Cliff_, _Anno 1601._ who carried from
thence a hundred thousand Pieces of Eight, and a Ships Lading of Hides
and Sugar.
[Sidenote: _Baracoa._]
2. Besides _St. Jago_, _Valasquez_ built the Town _Baracoa_, on the
Eastern Shore of _Cuba_, wash’d by the River _Mares_, which falls into
the Ocean between two Mountains on one side, and a flat Point on the
other, and is a most excellent Harbor: Not far from which grows the best
Ebony Wood.
[Sidenote: _St. Salvador._]
3. He also built the Town _St. Salvador_, one of the most healthful
Promontories of all _Cuba_, near the River _Bayamo_, which produces
round Stones, us’d there in stead of Bullets.
[Sidenote: _Trinidad._]
4. He likewise built _Trinidad_, before which hardly accessible Harbor
many a Ship hath been cast away: But this Fort was by a mighty Storm
levell’d even with the Ground.
[Sidenote: _Puerto del Principe._]
5. Near the Haven before the Town _Puerto del Principe_ is a Fountain,
out of which at certain times flows liquid Pitch.
[Sidenote: _Villa Sancti Spiritus._]
6. The Town call’d _Villa Sancti Spiritus_, six Leagues from the Ocean,
boasts fifty brave Houses, and is wash’d by the River _Saaz_.
[Sidenote: _Havana._]
7. The chiefest City which the _Spaniards_ possess in the _West-Indies_,
and the present Seat of their Governor, is _Christovall de Havana_;
which stood first on the South side of _Cuba_, but was afterwards built
on the North, opposite to _Florida_: The Harbor before it is large and
safe, for it is able to contain a thousand Ships, without the least
endangering of one another, and yet the Entrance so narrow, between a
Promontory and a square Fort, that two Ships cannot Sail in together:
the shallowest part thereof hath six Fathom Water. On each side the
Mouth of the Harbor is a Fort, the one call’d _Mesa de Maria_, which
stands built on a Champain Ground; the other call’d _Morro_, which lies
at the Foot of two Hills, on whose tops several Guns are planted, which
Command the Town and Haven.
Betwixt these two Forts is a Tower cover’d, on the top whereof is a
round Lantern, wherein stands continually a Watch-man, who puts forth as
many Flags as he discovers Ships at Sea, to give notice thereof to the
City, which is a Mile from thence.
Before _Havana_ stands a third Castle, well stor’d with Guns, as
likewise the rest are, in all to the number of two hundred and forty,
and strongly Garrison’d; of which great care was taken by the General
_Jean de Texeda_, and _Baptista Antonelli_, an Architect, sent thither
by _Philip_ the Second, King of _Spain_, to secure the Place from all
foreign Assaults, because the Plate-Fleet, and other Ships that come out
of the _West-Indies_, have their place of Rendezvouz here, and from
hence set Sail altogether for _Spain_. The City stands along the Haven,
and hath two Churches with spiry Steeples. The Houses are now built
after the _Spanish_ manner.
[Sidenote: _Havana_ several times Assaulted and taken.]
But _Havana_ was not so strongly fortifi’d in former times, for _Anno
1536._ it could not resist a mean _French_ Pyrate, who losing the rest
of his Fleet was driven hither by Storm, and conquering _Havana_, had
burnt the same, consisting at that time of woodden Houses cover’d with
Thatch, had not the _Spaniards_ redeem’d them from the Fire for seven
hundred _Ducats_; with which Money the _French_ set Sail, when the day
following three Ships arriv’d from _New Spain_ before _Havana_, and
having unladed their Goods, and preparing themselves for Battel, pursu’d
the Pyrate; whom getting sight of, the Admiral, who Sail’d before, durst
not venture to Engage him alone, but staid for the other two Ships: from
which cowardly Action the _French_ Pyrate taking Courage, fell on the
_Spanish_ Admiral, who without firing a Gun ran his Ship ashore, and
deserted the same: the next Ship thereby discourag’d Tacking about, made
away from the Enemy; on which the third also follow’d, insomuch that at
last they were all three taken by the _French_; who encourag’d with this
unexpected Victory, steer’d their Course a second time to _Havana_,
where they got as much more Money from the Inhabitants as before. After
this the _Spaniards_ built all their Houses of Stone, and a Fort at the
Mouth of the Harbor, yet nevertheless the City lay open on the Land
side; of which the _English_ Fleet, Cruising about in those Seas, being
inform’d, Landed not far from _Havana_, and enter’d the City before
Day-break: the _Spaniards_ thus suddenly surpriz’d, fled into the Woods,
whilest the _English_ plunder’d and ransack’d the City without any
resistance. But this was not the last Blow which _Havana_ receiv’d, for
during the Wars between the Emperor _Charles_ the Fifth, and the
_French_ King _Henry_ the Second, a Ship set Sail with ninety Soldiers
from _Diep_ to _Cuba_, where they made themselves Masters of _St. Jago_,
and carried great Treasure away with them: Thus enrich’d, they set in
the Night on _Havana_, but found their Expectations frustrated, for all
the Houses were empty, the _Spaniards_ (being so often Plunder’d) having
remov’d all their Goods to their Countrey Houses, which lay scattering
about the Island. Whilest the _French_ were searching the Houses, two
_Spaniards_ came under pretence of agreeing with them, but their Design
was chiefly to take an Account of their Enemies Forces. The _French_
demanded six thousand _Ducats_ of them: to which the two _Spaniards_
reply’d, That all their Goods would not raise so much: then going to
their Party, inform’d them of the number of the Enemies, and their
Demands; whereupon Consulting, some judg’d it best to comply with a
forc’d Necessity, and if they could not get any thing abated, to pay the
demanded Sum: but most of them were of another opinion, alledging, That
the number of the _French_ was not equivalent to their Demands, and that
it would not be for their Credit, to yield up their Estates so tamely,
without trying their Title by the Sword: This being judg’d fittest, they
march’d to Engage them with a hundred and fifty Men, which about
Midnight fell on the _French_, and at the first Onset slew four of them;
but upon the firing of the Gun they were all alarm’d, and after a small
Skirmish, put the _Spaniards_ to flight. The Conquerors enrag’d at this
treacherous Plot of the _Spaniards_, set fire on _Havana_, in which at
that time was a good quantity of Pitch and Tarr; with which the Gates,
Windows, Roofs, and Pent-houses being all bedaub’d over, were in few
hours all in a light Flame; after which the Churches in order for their
firing, were also going to be over-laid with the same combustible
Matter; at which a _Spaniard_ boldly desir’d, that the Temples erected
for Gods Service might be spar’d: to which he was answer’d, That People
who keep not their Promise, nor had any Faith, had no need of Churches
to profess their Faith in. The _French_ not satisfi’d with burning,
pull’d down the Walls, and utterly demolish’d the Fort.
[Sidenote: The Haven _Xagua_.]
The Haven _Xagua_ also is not inferior to any, the Mouth thereof being a
Boweshot wide, and within, ten Leagues: The Ships are securely shelter’d
behind three Islands, and also the Mountains, which rise along the
Shore.
[Sidenote: The Success of Admiral _Peter Hein_.]
Moreover, the Inlet _Matanca_ is not onely eminent, by reason of the
round Mountain _Elan de Matancas_, which rises from a low Ground; but
chiefly for the Expeditions of Admiral _Peter Peterson Hein_, who being
sent out by the _West-India_ Company, to Cruse up and down before
_Havana_ with one and thirty Sail, was from thence by a strong Current
driven down to _Matanca_; where he stood from the Shore, when ten Ships
came just running amidst his Fleet, and were all taken but one: About
Noon they discover’d nine Ships more, which Sailing along the Shore, got
into the Inlet _Matanca_, where they ran aground; whither _Hein_
following, came up to them the next Morning by Break-of-day, and after a
small Resistance took them, being valu’d to be worth above a hundred and
fifteen Tun of Gold, besides the Musk, Ambergreece, and _Bezoar_ with
which two other Ships were laden, and another rich Prize.
This large Island _Cuba_ (as we have before observ’d) formerly divided
into so many populous Territories, is now in a manner desolate; for
according to the _Spaniards_ Relation to the Admiral _Henry Jacobson
Lucifer_, when he was before _Havana_, _Cuba_ had upon it not above
sixty thousand Persons in all, in _Anno 1627._ But who-ever Reads that
which Bishop _Bartholomeo de las Casas_ hath written in his Book,
(Printed first in _Sivill_ in the _Spanish_ Tongue, and afterwards, with
the King of _Spain_’s leave, in _French_ at _Antwerp_) will easily find
the reason, why _Cuba_ and many other _Indian_ Countreys lie so
desolate; and how sensible the _Indians_ were of the _Spaniards_ usage,
appears by this following Story, related by the said Bishop, of a
_Casique_ call’d _Hathuey_, who before the _Spaniards_ approach’d his
Countrey, _Anno 1511._ fled from _Hispaniola_ to _Cuba_; where
afterwards he was taken by the _Spaniards_, and condemn’d to be burnt
alive with green Wood: whilest he was tying to a Stake, a _Franciscan_
Monk Preach’d to him the Mysteries of the _Christian_ Religion, of which
he had never heard; and likewise that he should ascend up to Heaven if
he dy’d in that Belief; but if not, burn perpetually in Hell: Whereupon
_Hathuey_ asking the _Franciscan_, If there were any _Spaniards_ in
Heaven? and being told there were, answer’d, _I will rather converse
amongst the Devils in Hell, than amongst the_ Spaniards, _whose Cruelty
is such, that none can be more miserable than where_ Spaniards _are_.
Before we conclude the Description of _Cuba_, it will be material to add
some Passages of a Letter from Major _Smith_, Governor of the Isle of
_Providence_, who was taken there in the Year 1665. which will give
light to the knowledge of the present State, not onely of _Cuba_, but of
some other parts of _America_, belonging to the _Spaniards_; which is as
followeth:
[Sidenote: Maj. _Smith_’s Letter concerning _Cuba_ and other Parts.]
_Cuba_ is a very good Island, and in it is generally the best Land, for
so large a Countrey, as I have seen in _America_, although I have
travell’d the main Continent in several places, and have cross’d from
the North Sea to the South Sea, as also the North side of _Hispaniola_,
and most parts of _Jamaica_.
This great Island is easie to be conquer’d, and would make the best
Plantation, besides the prejudice it would be to the _Spaniard_, and the
great advantage to our Nation; for instance, Had we the Port and City of
_Havana_, which might in all probability be reduc’d with two Regiments
of good Soldiers from _Jamaica_, carrying with them two or three Sloops
or Shallops for Landing Men, fitted with good Arms and other Necessaries
for an Assault, presently after their Armado hath pass’d out of the
_Indies_, which is once in two years, towards the latter part of the
Summer. There is good Landing on the West side of the City, where it
lies open; and you need fear no Ambuscado’s: but not on the East side on
the Harbor, for there you will be gawl’d by the strong Castle of the
_Moare_, until the City be secur’d; but when that is once taken, you may
easily reduce that Castle also, there being no danger of their re-taking
it, until the next Armado arrives there, which will be almost two years,
against which time you will have Planters enough from other of our
Islands, to Manure the Land, and assist the Soldiers in defence thereof:
This once effected, would utterly ruine the _Spaniards_, for these
Reasons: Our Ships lying both here and at _Jamaica_, would be at all
times ready to gather up their stragling Fleet, which it is difficult to
keep imbodied without the help of that Port of _Havana_, it being
impossible for their great unruly Ships to turn up to Windward from the
Bay of _Mexico_, or _Puerto Bello_, without separation; and on the other
side, to pass the Gulf of _Florida_, is for them as impossible, where
they always Rendezvouz, Victual, Water, and provide all things necessary
for their Return into _Spain_; after all which they diligently wait for
a convenient Season of Winds and Weather (being much observ’d from the
Changes of the Moon) when to pass that dangerous _Straight_: for to say
truly, the _Spaniards_ are neither very fit for Sea nor Land-Service,
excepting some Officers and Soldiers bred in _Flanders_ for
Land-Service, and a few _Biscainers_ for Sea-Affairs. They are so
sensible of their Weakness, and jealous of their Riches in those Parts,
that it is very difficult for any ingenious Man to get his Liberty,
being once taken, fearing he might give such Intelligence, as to be
thereby the cause of their ruine, witness their blind-folding of all
Strangers, when they pass their Cities and Castles; for they much dread
an old Prophecy amongst them, _viz._ _That within a short time the_
English _will as freely walk the Streets of_ Havana, _as the_ Spaniards
_now do_; which indeed had been easily perform’d with a third part of
the _English_ Army sent to _Jamaica_, and a far greater advantage to the
Nation: for I esteem that Port and Harbor of _Havana_ in the
_West-Indies_, equivalent (against that Nation) to _Tangier_ in the
_Straights_ of _Gibraltar_; and if we were at once Masters of both, it
would without doubt so straiten the _Spaniards_, as absolutely to admit
us a free Trade into their Ports of _America_, where they impart our
Commodities, and sell them for ten times more than they first cost in
_Spain_, by reason of the great plenty of Silver: which Trade would not
onely be of infinite advantage to us, but also prevent them of their
future enslaving of our Nation in Chains as now they do; for being
employ’d about their Fortifications, they are worse us’d, all things
consider’d, than if they were taken by the _Turks_.
[Illustration: JAMAICÆ]
I have seen other parts of the _West-Indies_, where the _Spaniards_
might be fleec’d of considerable quantities of Riches, as at _Panama_,
where their Silver Bars lie pyl’d up in Heaps in the open Streets Day
and Night without Guard for five or six Moneths together, waiting the
arrival of the Armado; which when arriv’d in _Puerto Bello_, they
Transport it thither with so slender a Guard, for so great a Treasure,
as would be an easie Prey to a thousand resolv’d Men (although of
extraordinary value for so small a Charge;) but here is no resting, nor
long remaining, they being so numerous (as in all other places of the
main Land) though of great Wealth, and easily gotten with a Catch and
away: But to my purpose,
This Island of _Cuba_ hath adjacent to it great Conveniences of Salt and
Fishing; and in it are very great plenty of Horses, Neat, Sheep, and
Hogs, both wild and tame, of a far larger and better breed than any
other parts of _America_: It hath also many very rich Mines of Copper
already open, and is the onely Place that supplies all the _West-Indies_
with Metal for the infinite number of Ordnance they have in all their
Ports and Castles, both in the North and South Seas; but whether it hath
any Mines of Silver or Gold, I know not; but if there were any such,
they would not adventure their opening and discovery, fearing the
Invasion of that Island, whereunto is so easie access by Sea, and of so
great import to their whole Interest in _America_: for which reason also
they refuse to work any Mines in _Florida_, that are nigh the North Sea,
(although they have there very many) but do rather employ themselves
about others farther up in the Countrey, although with greater Labor and
Cost, for conveyance of the Product by Land to _Mexico_. And lastly,
(for its full praise) this Island hath many very good Ports and Harbors
of great advantage to Ships, for safe passing the Gulf; and should the
_Spaniards_ keep three or four Frigats always plying between the Western
end of _Cuba_ and that of _Havana_, off and on, it were impossible for
any Ships of ours that came from _Jamaica_ to escape them; the Scales
turn’d would be their Case to all _America_. Neither wants it great
Sugar-works, which have Water-mills and Horse-mills, and very many large
_Cocoa_ Walks, the most and best Tobacco: and in short, it produceth all
other Commodities, that any of our _American_ Islands have knowledge of.
[Illustration]
CHAP. XVI.
Jamaica.
[Sidenote: Situation and Extent of _Jamaica_.]
The Island of _Jamaica_ lieth North from the Southern Continent of
_America_, in the Sea call’d _Mare del Nort_; and South from the Isle of
_Cuba_ about twelve Leagues; and West from _Hispaniola_ twenty, in
eighteen Degrees of Northern Latitude; and beareth from _Rio de Hacha_
North-West, a hundred and fifty Leagues; from _Santa Martha_ North
North-West, a hundred and thirty five; from _Rio Grande_ North-West, a
hundred and thirty; from _Carthagena_ North, fourteen; from _Porto
Bello_ North-East and by North, a hundred and ninety; from the Bay of
_Darien_, North and by East, a hundred and seventy; from the Bay of
_Mexico_, a hundred and fifty. It is of Form something nearly resembling
oval, being in length from East to West, about fifty four Leagues, or a
hundred and seventy Miles; from North to South in the broadest and
middlemost part, about three and twenty Leagues, or seventy Miles over,
and so groweth narrower and narrower towards each Extream; in
circumference about one hundred and fifty Leagues, or four hundred and
fifty _English_ Miles.
[Sidenote: Nature of the Country.]
This Island is well water’d with Springs and Rivers, and is all over,
especially in the Western parts, full of high Hills and Mountains: It is
also well Wooded; for the North and South parts chiefly abound with tall
and large Woods: Nor are there wanting every where _Savanas_, or
Pastures, which are thought to have been Fields of _Indian Maiz_, till
the _Spaniards_ arriving here, brought in Horses, Cows, Hogs, and
_Asinego_’s to feed.
[Sidenote: Temperature of the Air.]
The Air in this Place is more temperate, and the Heat more tolerable,
than in any of the rest of the _Barloventi_, by reason of the cool
Breezes which constantly blow from the East, and the frequency of
Showers of Rain, and refreshing Dews which fall in the Night.
This is also the onely Island of the _Barloventi_, which is not subject
to violent Storms and Hurricanes; and the Diseases which are predominant
here, are onely bred by Intemperance, as Surfets, Feavers, and Agues, or
occasion’d by ill Diet or Slothfulness.
[Sidenote: Commodities of the Island.]
The Commodities of this Island are very many; and first for Vegetables,
the Sugars are so good, that they now out-sell those of _Barbado_’s 5
_s._ _per Cent._
_Cocoa_, of which there are many large Walks; and greater plenty by
improvement may easily be produc’d.
Tobacco, so good, that the Merchants give Six pence a Pound for it, and
buy it faster than the Planters can make it.
Indigo is producible in great abundance, if there were Hands sufficient
employ’d about it.
The Cotton of this Place is accounted very firm and substantial, and
preferr’d before any that grows in the neighboring Islands.